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Haha you loving maniac. If you're going to set fire to huge stacks of money why not jam the W8 into the Golf and get the license plate "gently caress IT?" I am so happy that AI has decided over the last few weeks to start trying to top themselves.
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Jan 19, 2016 02:27
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 16:25 |
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some texas redneck posted:More common than you think. I know Honda has used them since the 90s on the Accord, and a lot of Toyota 1MZ-FEs got them too Liquid motor mounts are pretty popular (Subaru insists on using them even though they are useless and burst - a much worse vibration than just worn rubber would be). I doubt anyone other than the Germans has thought to make an adjustable, vacuum actuated hydraulic motor mount though.
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Jan 22, 2016 14:48
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Those latter two codes refer to the heater circuits in the O2 sensor(s), which have nothing to do with climate control. A narrowband (and probably wideband too) O2 sensor only works within a very narrow temperature range, so in order to make sure that they work quickly after a cold start the car runs the heater circuit on the O2 sensor to pre-warm the reactory bit so it can get to operating temperature faster. If you are chucking that code generally it means one of two things:
Since Bank 2/Sensor 2 is probably the post-cat O2 sensor, I would be tempted to multimeter the harness before you get into high speed parts swapping mode. The post-cat sensor in pretty much every car has a mile of wiring in front of it; plenty of opportunities to get severed by an exhaust heat shield or caught in a spinning bit of some kind. It would be bad to spend a hundo-plus on a new sensor before figuring out that twelve cents of wiring and solder would have fixed it. If the O2 sensor has never been replaced in the car's lifetime I would assume it is the sensor. O2 sensors are a lot like spark plugs - as they age they start getting squirrelly rather than dying altogether. Usually the heater circuit failing is your first indication of a near-dead O2 sensor. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 06:13
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Slavvy posted:Wait, stop there. Some modern cars, and I'm aware of both VAG and BMW products that do this, have electronically controlled thermostats. The car can run at a higher water temperature when cruising and cooler when pinning it. The ECU achieves this by goosing an old school wax thermostat with an electric heater element. I guess the idea is that combustion works better (higher efficiency) the closer you get to a 230F temperature but you need to also drop that temperature to prevent detonation under big throttle events. Probably also some cold-start benefits? http://www.counterman.com/electrically-assisted-thermostat-smarter-way-greater-engine-efficiency/ Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 14:52
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scuz posted:I read somewhere that in order to get to the O2 sensors, you DO need to pull the engine. Did VW build this car to see just how far they could go before their fanboys would abandon them? If they're tucked that far inside, I would replace the sensors and trace the harness back. Chances are someone pushed the wires off some retaining clip over the years and the harness has rubbed against a heat shield.
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Jan 25, 2016 17:25
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What the gently caress is going on with those uprights?
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Jan 28, 2016 02:30
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I dimly remember something about soldering and O2 sensor wires. Namely that you should not do it. But I don't remember why. Maybe resistance?
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Mar 22, 2016 16:20
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It turns out that O2 sensor wires are magical:quote:Older style oxygen sensors have a small hole in the body so air can enter the sensor, but newer style sensors breathe through their wire connectors and have no vent hole. Grease should never be applied to the wires where they enter the sensor, because it would prevent proper air circulation. So will dirt and other contaminates. Because of the difference in oxygen and temperature levels between the inside and outside of the bulb, a small voltage is created and can be measured by the PCM. quote:Wires you can solder- the heaters.
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Mar 22, 2016 21:12
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Just take the bolt to somewhere that sells metric fasteners and find a good match. I think the last time I did an Audi product of the same era it was M8x1.25. You could always try "order a bunch of poo poo from belmetric and see what fits," which is a method I've used in the past that at the very least results in my spare parts bolt bin getting filled with future rear end-savers.
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Sep 12, 2016 05:26
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 16:25 |
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Hi I'm scuz and I'm trying my level hardest to make a base model Golf into as big of a project as the W8 Passat I was cruelly denied by the intervention of my loving parents. This is gonna be good!
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Sep 12, 2016 16:58
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