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Please V10 TDI swap this, and put the W8 in your Golf. Then put the 2.0 in the Tuareg the V10 came from. Hats off to you if you pull this off, or for that matter what you planned to do. IIRC you mentioned the W8 has the MIL on for a heating circuit or something not the important bits on the NLA/$texas engine, right?
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Jan 19, 2016 02:38
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scuz posted:If that solves my problems, then loving awesome, but since the heater isn't doing so well I kinda doubt it. It's possible that the impact messed up the wiring that goes to the Climatronic control box, so maybe the problem's there. Totally worth it. I spent $250 on the new rear struts for the Justy and the difference was mindblowing, it was actually driveable afterwards without terrible butt puckering moments skipping sideways around a gentle corner because I dared to take a 50mph posted corner at 50 (it wasn't even really a corner...), on dry warm pavement, and there happened to be some mild washboarding. I didn't even expect that, it scared the poo poo out of me. I doubt wiring got jarred that hard by the accident, it takes a really really hard hit (like, "your car now only drives around corners" hard) to damage wiring that isn't directly physically impacted by the collision. It's probably just VW wiring being VW wiring.
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Jan 20, 2016 21:58
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Man, you make one silly mistake that results in auto-refilling blinker fluid reservoirs and no one ever lets you live it down.
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Jan 22, 2016 00:08
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SSS is right... I knew the "check engine light on because of hvac system" thing seemed a little weird/fishy/too bad to be true/too good to be true. Good luck, hope it doesn't involve pulling the engine?
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Jan 25, 2016 13:42
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So I went looking on the internet for info on W8 O2 sensor changing and found this gem of a thread. I can't look away. The OP is an insufferable oval office AND a retard, and has no idea what he is doing. Some of the other posters are no better, some are smart though. http://www.passatworld.com/forums/volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/325957-2003-passat-w8-running-rough-throwing-up-codes-again.html
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Jan 25, 2016 16:03
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scuz posted:Well the dude that kastein linked to seems to thing differently about the removing-the-engine bit with the O2 sensors. As dopey as that guy is, that bit of info may have saved me a considerable amount of work. I'm hoping the same, for your sake, but remember he lives in florida (  ) and you're in minnesota as I recall. Rustbelt may kick your rear end on this one, I dunno.Seems like a really cool engine, so I'm glad you want to save it. Just afraid it may gently caress you over for your efforts... good luck!
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Jan 25, 2016 17:39
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Well we might know why the O2 sensors and/or cats aren't functioning correctly now...
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Jan 25, 2016 17:46
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If anything in his mystery skookum choocher mix had metals in it, like zinc (ZDDP additive...) or lead (tetraethyl lead in old leaded gas) or possibly other metals, it probably poisoned the converters or sensors. If not, it may have just gooped them up and driving it like you stole it will clear any residue off well enough. I'd give it an italian tuneup after getting the maybe-contaminated fuel out, then see how it acts. E: they are heater circuit codes not o2 function codes, so this may not help, but it can't really hurt. E2: if SSS is right and those are downstreams check the wiring, throw new sensors in, and see what happens. If they fight you coming out run an m18x1.5 tap through the bungs and blast clean with brakleen before installing new sensors. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 18:14
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Have you verified which bank of sensors are complaining yet? I mean, there's a solid chance that the downstreams are the ones throwing those codes not the upstreams, at which point you can put new downstream sensors in, cross your fingers, run a billion gallons of GTP through it and sell it the second the MIL goes out.
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Jan 28, 2016 19:43
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scuz posted:I only have the ODBII scanner telling me that it's bank 2 sensor 2, which all of my resources are telling me that it's driver's side, post-cat. What's GTP? My google-fu is weak. True, this was assuming the thermostat gets fixed somehow. GTP = Guaranteed To Pass, basically emissions system fooler fluid/fuel additive. I wouldn't worry about the upstreams at all, since it sounds like you have an issue with one post-cat one. If you get another code for cat failure after replacing the downstream you'll probably have to pull the manifold-cat-contraption to replace it anyways, so at that point I'd drop a new upstream in "while you're in there", but no sense loving with them unless you have to at this point IMO.
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Jan 28, 2016 20:00
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If you do, get the 3/4 one like I said not the 1/2. The 1/2 ones are alright but nothing compared to the 3/4 and let's face it, if you need that much torque you probably aren't working in very confined spaces.
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Feb 23, 2016 17:18
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I'd check on his wiring repair since that was a circuit malfunction code IIRC and you already described his magical mad scientist homebrew MMO poo poo. I hate to say it but he sounds like the kind of well meaning tinkerer who I don't ever want within a hundred miles of any of my cars.
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Feb 23, 2016 21:44
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I'll work with people who work like that, but I don't let them do poo poo without me at least being nearby to stop things before they get too off the wall. My dad is the same way  For example: He spent today ranting about Fukushima killing the entire planet on facebook and did one of the cleanest technically-correct-but-loving-scary generator backup power systems I've ever seen for their house. I really hope it doesn't burn the place down but he gets super defensive and says it's fine and works fine and gently caress the inspector who cares if it's to code it is fine, don't judge me, every time I bring up the fact that yeah one day we might want to fix that properly.
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Feb 23, 2016 22:16
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Yeah even as a VW/Audi hatred spewer, triple square is the least bad thing they did. If they'd used allens on everything I'd be very cross, triple square actually handles corrosion and a reasonable amount of torque fairly well, it just means buying another socket set, which doesn't overly concern me because Jeep already required me to buy all the others, I might as well just go all in and complete the set at this point. e: I would like a word with whoever loving put them so damned close to the axle on the CV cups though, that was a right proper oval office to get my tools on when I did the front CV shafts on a B5 A4 1.8t 5spd Quattro Avant a while ago. Would have been far easier on a lift, but I'm not made of money and the cheap ones on CL/facebook keep getting scooped out from under me.
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Mar 7, 2016 17:13
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I think I ended up using like 2 or 3 feet of extensions, a ujoint, and a lot of cursing.
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Mar 7, 2016 17:21
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That's the one, but I could only get one wheel off the ground at a time (was working in a parking lot) so given the AWD nature of the vehicle, that was rather difficult. If I'd had some more jacks and stuff with me I would have jacked up the whole front at once so the other wheel would just turn the opposite direction.
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Mar 7, 2016 17:41
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Glad to hear it! I wonder what the eventual fix for the thermostat issue will be... Related: yesterday I was at a parts store picking up a new CPS for my blue MJ. I parked next to a red Passat with the hood up and noted the engine cover had the W8 logo on it.  Talked to the guy inside, he loves it, but... they didn't have what he needed... and couldn't order it. But you knew that already.
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Mar 14, 2016 18:32
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Hey, at least that means you can fix it with some quality wiring splice and connector repair work instead of looking for NLA OEM parts in the back shelves of every VAG dealer in the nation. when dealing with electrical problems, I have 3 steps: - check the most likely failure (what you just did) - go for the home run (check the wiring circuit continuity and shorts to ground all the way from the ecu plug to the device plug) - divide and conquer. aka unplug a connector it goes through and check continuity+shorts on each half of the split circuit, repeat until you find the leg that is hosed, dig in and fix it. kastein fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Mar 18, 2016 |
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Mar 18, 2016 12:39
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That big aluminum box is your powertrain control module, so while it's alright to unplug it, there's not much point to doing so unless you're about to diagnose the thermostat control circuit or there's something under it you need to access. IIRC (it's been several years though so take this with a grain of salt) the only thing under the ECU is some connectors that lead into the interior up over the pedals. Also, note that at least on the VAG products I've worked on from that general era, there's no real waterproofing there. If you leave the lid off of that relay/ECU box there, any water that goes in will find its way directly into the unsealed electrical connectors in there and also down into the footwell.
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Mar 18, 2016 17:08
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If you're handy with a soldering iron there's a reasonable chance you can pop the cover off and replace the driver transistor for that one output and move on with your life however. They're generally SMT but at least Bosch VAG ECUs aren't overly waterproofed or impossible to open reversibly like most I'm used to. It's probably wiring though.
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Mar 19, 2016 00:37
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It only really matters when the joint is between dissimilar metals and one or the other is heated more. If you're connecting copper to copper in one solder joint, you have two thermocouples back to back, inherently at the same temperature, and they cancel out.
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Mar 22, 2016 18:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does that mean *anywhere* from the sensor to the ECU, or just from the sensor to the connector? Seems like if the wiring fault is on the harness-side of the connector a lot of those fears shouldn't really apply anymore. The latter. As long as it's in the harness it's just regular copper auto-harness grade wire. It might even be shielded wire if the OEM cares enough to bother. Most don't. The oxygen thing and special-metal conductors only go as far as the O2 sensor plug that mates with the harness.
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Mar 22, 2016 21:45
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nm posted:If you really want to torture a VW mechanic, VW had some recalls for ecus, tcus, and ccus corroding in the floors (due to leaking sunroofs, firewalls and more). Before you go too far down the rabbit hole, I might make sure you have no outsanding recalls. I can't recall what years were covered. you forgot "coolant level sensors that pump the wiring harness full of coolant" on that list of corrosion causes 
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Mar 23, 2016 15:12
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Yeah there's just air inside the bellhousing, other than the flexplate, torque converter, and the snout of the starter motor. The sheetmetal plate is just to keep road debris from blowing in there. That being said if the fluid was pouring out of the bellhousing, your input seal went like Dagen H said, and/or other worse problems. Given the fact that it was driven till it wouldn't go out of first gear, who knows what's burnt up in that tranny. I don't really like automatics... especially Ford and Chrysler ones. I might be biased, but there is just too much bullshit magic in there.  e: when "boredom" loses line pressure due to insufficient ATF, it can suffer all kinds of damage, including burnt up clutches and bands, destroyed bearings, etc.
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Jul 25, 2016 17:01
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You gotta drop the tranny to replace the input seal anyways, even assuming the rest of the transmission is 100% fine, which I somewhat doubt. So either way... it's gonna take work.
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Jul 25, 2016 17:04
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I would not extend the struts that way. First of all, you probably won't find hardware of the right strength, second, it may gently caress with how the bumpstop works out and result in you ramming the coupling nuts into the strut seals and/or the strut pistons into the bottom of the struts, neither of which is very good for them. Second, the strut shaft is the only thing that keeps your front wheels vertical and at the appropriate camber, if it comes loose or breaks for any reason, calling the failure catastrophic is being generous. What's your plan on getting the new rings to seat? Rehoning the bores and hopefully cleaning the debris off the crank, bores, and crankcase area, or just slam new rings in and cross your fingers they seat without any assistance?
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Sep 6, 2016 20:36
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scuz posted:
You're taking tire/wheel uptravel into account here, right? Ride height and where the tire goes at full-bump are gonna be pretty different, and that's a lot of tire for a passenger car...
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Sep 9, 2016 18:28
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It's gonna be great. Measured clearances all around the tires last night and the 215/75/15 size will fit with just a smidgen of wiggle room.