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B-Nasty
May 25, 2005



angryrobots posted:

That's what you pay insurance for. Do you have some irrational fear of your premium going up? Cause it probably won't, and if they do raise it more than the annual market adjustment, you shop around and switch.

If it only it was that easy.

It's pretty much guaranteed the premium will increase, and any claims go on the CLUE that alternative insurers will use to determine your rate or if they'll insure you at all. By making that claim, you've also burned your 'one chance'; any other claims in 10 years and you may find getting insurance through the normal companies to be nearly impossible.

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Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?


Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

Honestly what's really needed is a standard for communications between thermostats, other sensor devices, indoor units, outdoor units, in duct blowers, surge heaters, dampers, etc. Something like CAN would be a great physical layer for it, then stack standardized packet formats on top of it for each control type and allow full configuration so each indoor unit/booster/damper knows which thermostats tell them to do what, different brands of equipment could be used together more effectively, etc. Unfortunately I'm sure there would be a lot of resistance to such an idea in the industry because everyone's already got their own proprietary ecosystem they want to sell you, and they like that it doesn't work with anyone else's stuff, and love 24vac dumb controls even if a single point of failure can burn up a piece of equipment like motronic described, because it means not having to learn any new tech and being able to sell the replacement unit. Even though that system was designed to work with non modulating 60% efficient oil furnaces in 1955 or whatever and has been poorly extended and added to since then, while still not really adapting well to modern modulating furnaces and chillers, or horror of horrors, both in one system and the user wanting the system to just do what's needed to maintain temp without having to flip a heat/cool switch.

E: or if such a thing already exists, maybe people should use it, but that will never happen

I've been waiting for someone, anyone, to do something with carrier's "ABCD" rs-485 protocol because the stock infinity thermostat is not nearly as smart as it could be attached to a modulating furnace, variable compressor, and access to outside air temp and a forecast. it's been reverse engineered, but I'm still just not quiiite ready to roll my own control logic.

https://github.com/nebulous/infinitude

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004



This might be more the electricity thread, so I'm going to crosspost. This old rear end house we bought has electric baseboard heaters in the basement. The thermostat is old and you can't really read any of the temperature settings. We have a total of 2 baseboard heaters on different walls, and I believe they are on different circuits. What the hell kind of basic thermostat do I need for them? I see different options, but I don't need anything more complicated than off and on.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


KKKLIP ART posted:

This might be more the electricity thread, so I'm going to crosspost. This old rear end house we bought has electric baseboard heaters in the basement. The thermostat is old and you can't really read any of the temperature settings. We have a total of 2 baseboard heaters on different walls, and I believe they are on different circuits. What the hell kind of basic thermostat do I need for them? I see different options, but I don't need anything more complicated than off and on.

If it works does it matter? Put a sharpie mark for off and "comfortable"?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Take well lit pictures.

Nobody wants to guess at the possibilities of what you have.

I'm also going to ask right up front: do you own this home or are you renting?

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005





KKKLIP ART posted:

This old rear end house we bought

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004



Motronic posted:

Take well lit pictures.

Nobody wants to guess at the possibilities of what you have.

I'm also going to ask right up front: do you own this home or are you renting?

I'll see if I can get the thermostat off the wall and take a picture of it, the wiring, and any thermostat ID info. As for the does it matter aspect, if I can spend 20-30$ on a basic thermostat that allows for a bit more temperature adjustment depending on the ambient temp in the basement (which because old house, is often pretty cold right now), that would be nice to have.

Eventual plan is to go down to studs and do actual insulation and all that, but gotta save up some cash beforehand. We also have a natural gas fireplace insert that we aren't using until we have it inspected first, but one thing at a time.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

KKKLIP ART posted:

a basic thermostat that allows for a bit more temperature adjustment depending on the ambient temp in the basement

Turning heat on or off based on the ambient temperature of a room is the minimum functionality to call something a thermostat. I can't imagine the existing ones aren't doing this already.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004



I guess I should clarify that the current unreadable thermostat is adjustable but the dial is worn to the point that we canít read it. I would simply like a new one (maybe digital) for easier use that we could adjust the heat output from these baseboard heaters. Nothing fancy, so yes, like a normal thermostat. Iíll try to get identifying info so I can make sure I am buying a compatible one.

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester



With it being electric baseboard heaters, they're likely line voltage thermostats @ 240V. Kill the breaker/fuse for each heater before you pull covers off of thermostats (if unknown which is which, turn off all of the 2 pole breakers), but you're probably gonna find some beefy wires in there instead of 28 gauge thermostat/bell wiring.

If I'm right on this, you'll need "line voltage thermostats". They're essentially heavy duty switches. They're switching the full current of your baseboard heaters.

STR fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Dec 31, 2020

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

MESS WITH THE OWL GET DISEMBOWEL





STR posted:

With it being electric baseboard heaters, they're likely line voltage thermostats @ 240V. Kill the breaker/fuse for each heater before you pull covers off of thermostats (if unknown which is which, turn off all of the 2 pole breakers), but you're probably gonna find some beefy wires in there instead of 28 gauge thermostat/bell wiring.

If I'm right on this, you'll need "line voltage thermostats". They're essentially heavy duty switches. They're switching the full current of your baseboard heaters.

It's worth noting they all suck rear end too, the bimetallic elements are repeatable but not accurate at all, they wear out, an electronic temp sensor and relay would be so much better.

The one in my kitchen likes to sit there and buzz until I walk by and smash it with my hand, then it turns my heater on.

Nitrousoxide
May 30, 2011

do not buy a oneplus phone





Is there any reason why baseboard heaters arenít the house fire magnets that room heaters are?

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

MESS WITH THE OWL GET DISEMBOWEL





Nitrousoxide posted:

Is there any reason why baseboard heaters aren’t the house fire magnets that room heaters are?

A few.

-they usually have a pretty reasonable watt/linear foot that means they don't get super hot at any one point

-they're installed by licensed electricians, mostly.

-they're not cord-and-plug connected, so those inferior spring connections, Leviton back-stab, extension cord or plug-to-outlet, whatever don't factor into the fire hazard risk.

-low profile, it's harder to completely occlude a 1500W baseboard than a 1500W space heater

-they're well shrouded, usually there's a metal outer guard and a heat sink that help prevent flammable poo poo from contacting something hot enough to combust it.

-they literally cannot tip over, unless installed obscenely incorrectly.

-they're usually manufactured to actually meet UL standards, including proper thermal cutouts and whatnot (with some notable [CADET]* exceptions.

-they're installed on circuits that are calculated and controlled in terms of total current of installed devices.

*Cadet, back in the day was infamous for making heaters with thermal cutouts that set themselves on fire when active. Somewhat defeating the purpose of a thermal cutout.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

anyone knowledgeable about (very rough) costs for a new water heater? I got mine in, but my neighbor needs one and she's mentioning various estimates. Mine is an AO Smith power vent, 40 gallon, high efficiency. The unit on amazon is like 1400 or 1500. I was charged 2750, and then I got a 250 rebate so 2500. The install didn't take long, so I assume beyond the unit cost, the bulk of the rest of the price is labor + warranty coverage essentially?

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jan 1, 2021

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


actionjackson posted:

anyone knowledgeable about (very rough) costs for a new water heater? I got mine in, but my neighbor needs one and she's mentioning various estimates. Mine is an AO Smith power vent, 40 gallon, high efficiency. The unit on amazon is like 1400 or 1500. I was charged 2750, and then I got a 250 rebate so 2500. The install didn't take long, so I assume beyond the unit cost, the bulk of the rest of the price is labor + warranty coverage essentially?

That all seems fine, but I would get a Rheem. $2750 for R&R without a bunch of re-working the pipes/fuel is probably a little high but not crazy. A super basic water heater is like $400. $1500 should be a fancy pants one.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

H110Hawk posted:

That all seems fine, but I would get a Rheem. $2750 for R&R without a bunch of re-working the pipes/fuel is probably a little high but not crazy. A super basic water heater is like $400. $1500 should be a fancy pants one.

yeah that's the one I have, the AO Scott, lists for about 1500

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007


Hair Elf

Speaking of water heaters, I just installed a new one for my girlfriend.

Her old one had some kind of weird, home-made heat pump integrated to it that was supposed to siphon off heat from the HVAC system to the water heater before going outside to the condenser. It was a pretty clever idea but incredibly poorly implemented, and even when it was working I doubt it gave much, if any benefit.


Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?


Fun Shoe

SpartanIvy posted:

Speaking of water heaters, I just installed a new one for my girlfriend.

Her old one had some kind of weird, home-made heat pump integrated to it that was supposed to siphon off heat from the HVAC system to the water heater before going outside to the condenser. It was a pretty clever idea but incredibly poorly implemented, and even when it was working I doubt it gave much, if any benefit.




Yeah, those are still a thing for both hot water and pool heating

https://www.hotspotenergy.com/residential-heat-recovery-water-heaters/

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006


I need a nomograph for r407a but for the life of me I can't find one. Plenty for r507, r407f, etc, but nothing for 407a. Any refrig techs able to help out?

stratdax fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jan 3, 2021

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012



https://www.forane.com/en/forane-refrigerants/our-products/product-viewer/Forane-407A/?t=3

KS
Jun 10, 2003


Outrageous Lumpwad

Based on testing, I need to install some radon mitigation. I have a 2-story house. I'd really rather avoid the typical installation of white PVC pipe running up the outside of the house from the basement to the roofline, and there aren't a lot of spots to do it based on the nature of the house.

I have an ~18' vertical access path from the center of the basement to the attic, 2'x4' or so, that houses the HVAC supply and return ducts for the upstairs zone. That leaves about a 1x1 opening and I suggested we use that -- the mitigation company ran with it and I have a quote to install a system through that path and out through a roof penetration.

Am I shooting myself in the foot in any way here related to HVAC maintenance down the road? The vertical ducts are ductboard and I believe they're from the 80s. They connect to spiders in the attic that are in rough shape insulation-wise.

Ducts in basement. Conduit is loose, also considering running data through here. Stray wires are from an old security system I'm ripping out slowly.


Looking up access:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Do you have an attached garage? That where I went up. Don't mind the PVC so much in there.

devicenull
May 30, 2007



Grimey Drawer

KS posted:

Based on testing, I need to install some radon mitigation. I have a 2-story house. I'd really rather avoid the typical installation of white PVC pipe running up the outside of the house from the basement to the roofline, and there aren't a lot of spots to do it based on the nature of the house.

I have an ~18' vertical access path from the center of the basement to the attic, 2'x4' or so, that houses the HVAC supply and return ducts for the upstairs zone. That leaves about a 1x1 opening and I suggested we use that -- the mitigation company ran with it and I have a quote to install a system through that path and out through a roof penetration.

Am I shooting myself in the foot in any way here related to HVAC maintenance down the road? The vertical ducts are ductboard and I believe they're from the 80s. They connect to spiders in the attic that are in rough shape insulation-wise.

Ducts in basement. Conduit is loose, also considering running data through here. Stray wires are from an old security system I'm ripping out slowly.


Looking up access:


It's pretty unlikely you'd ever need to do anything with the ducts there - and I can't imagine having a 2 inch pipe is really going to impede anything.

Is your basement conditioned? It's weird to me to have a massive hole like that running from the attic to the basement. I'd probably block it off on the top with something you can remove for maintenance.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

another person in their condo is getting their water heater replaced. They have an AO smith power vent. The new one is also an AO smith power vent. But this guy is only charging 1150 total? this is all parts and labor, and includes taking away the old one as well. part of this is she is paying in cash, and it's only a one year warranty, but does that seem suspiciously low? These units tend to be in the 1200-1600 range alone, though do HVAC contractors get them significantly cheaper?

KS
Jun 10, 2003


Outrageous Lumpwad

Motronic posted:

Do you have an attached garage? That where I went up. Don't mind the PVC so much in there.

Unfortunately I think the garage is on the wrong side of the house for this.


devicenull posted:

It's pretty unlikely you'd ever need to do anything with the ducts there - and I can't imagine having a 2 inch pipe is really going to impede anything.

Is your basement conditioned? It's weird to me to have a massive hole like that running from the attic to the basement. I'd probably block it off on the top with something you can remove for maintenance.

It's not conditioned. It's a weird house for sure. I'll block it off -- I can't imagine it's great for the heating bill.

KS fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Feb 1, 2021

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Oh that's a turbofucked roofline. I guess at least it's not an autogenerated mcmansion roof.

You're gonna need someone who knows what they are looking at who can be physically inside and outside of your house to figure out the best place to put it.

KS
Jun 10, 2003


Outrageous Lumpwad

yup. There are 4 attics. It's nuts and everything costs double.

Do I just bring back the HVAC crew and say "how pissed would you be if I put the system here?" Or a job for a GC? I get the sense the radon folks will do just about anything which does not inspire confidence.

Thanks.

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!

actionjackson posted:

another person in their condo is getting their water heater replaced. They have an AO smith power vent. The new one is also an AO smith power vent. But this guy is only charging 1150 total? this is all parts and labor, and includes taking away the old one as well. part of this is she is paying in cash, and it's only a one year warranty, but does that seem suspiciously low? These units tend to be in the 1200-1600 range alone, though do HVAC contractors get them significantly cheaper?

Cash price, plumber is getting his trade discount, the initial installation was done well so it's a quick re-install, there are different levels of ao smith heaters so maybe it's bottom barrel. Probably some combination of all these factors.

The one year warranty thing is wierd though. Is that a year on his labor, or on the tank itself? I thought tank warranties were longer than that.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

TacoHavoc posted:

Cash price, plumber is getting his trade discount, the initial installation was done well so it's a quick re-install, there are different levels of ao smith heaters so maybe it's bottom barrel. Probably some combination of all these factors.

The one year warranty thing is wierd though. Is that a year on his labor, or on the tank itself? I thought tank warranties were longer than that.

okay thanks. i know she's getting another power vent but not sure if it's another AO smith. Not sure about the warranty part. I just got my new AO smith power vent and they charged 2800, but I did get a 250 rebate because it's high efficiency. I have a ten year warranty.

Also I know with mine the city inspector came out and found a couple code violations, so they had to make some changes, which of course I did not have to pay for myself. Not sure if that will come up with what this person is doing. Specifically they had to add a pan underneath (even though I'm on the first floor), and the top piping had to be PVC.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

TacoHavoc posted:

Cash price, plumber is getting his trade discount, the initial installation was done well so it's a quick re-install, there are different levels of ao smith heaters so maybe it's bottom barrel. Probably some combination of all these factors.

The one year warranty thing is wierd though. Is that a year on his labor, or on the tank itself? I thought tank warranties were longer than that.

found out she got a Richmond, not sure which model though.

AmbassadorofSodomy
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!


Hey, I'm a stupid pile of poo poo that can't figure out how to install a new thermostat.

I live in a condo, and have a chiller/boiler type system. I have no idea if its a two pipe or four pipe.
Though I did remove a panel and reach in the back and could feel two pipes in there.
I have no idea if thats the correct way to determine if its two pipe or four pipe. Like maybe thats just the same pipe and I was touching the feed and return or some poo poo.

I also don't know if its manual changeover or auto changeover. All I can say about that is that twice per year, we can't use our heating/cooling for a day or so because some hvac people come over to "switch over" I'd guess that thats a manual changeover, but hosed if I know.


Current stat that doesn't work so well is a Honeywell T8575D2003 wired like so:




New stat is a Honeywell TB8575A 1000

Wires go in this thing:


I've looked at the instructions and there are several different diagrams RE: 2 vs 4 pipe, and Auto vs manual changeover, and Heat only/ cool only.

I think I've *probably* got the fan figured out, power and speeds, and maaaaybe the R/wy terminals on the new base, but there appear to be afew wires that I don't really know what the poo poo they are.



Please school me on how to hook this poo poo up as I'm too dumb to figure out how to do it myself.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

wesleywillis posted:

I live in a condo, and have a chiller/boiler type system. I have no idea if its a two pipe or four pipe.
Though I did remove a panel and reach in the back and could feel two pipes in there.
I have no idea if thats the correct way to determine if its two pipe or four pipe. Like maybe thats just the same pipe and I was touching the feed and return or some poo poo.

I also don't know if its manual changeover or auto changeover. All I can say about that is that twice per year, we can't use our heating/cooling for a day or so because some hvac people come over to "switch over" I'd guess that thats a manual changeover, but hosed if I know.

It's manual changeover. Which means it's 2 pipe.

Does that get you where you need to be based on the diagrams? If not, what "leftover" wires have you got?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012



He's going to end up with an extra "com" wire from fan (6 violet), which we can't know how to wire without knowing how the fancoil is set up.

Also apparently there's no switchover sensor? or it was the green wire which is loose, but is now discon for some reason?

EDIT: also its manual changeover, but has electric backup heat?

MRC48B fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jan 16, 2021

AmbassadorofSodomy
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!


Thanks for the quick replies. I was out for a walk rather than ing every two minutes.

So on the new base, I'm pretty sure that I have figured out the following:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/526675/Honeywell-Suitepro-Tb6575.html?page=8#manual



C is the common going to the fan
Gl
Gm
Gh are the fan speeds

Damned if I know which is high medium and low
Fake edit: I'm stupid as gently caress! H M L duh!!

W/Y is the same as terminal 1 on the old set up (black) - I deduced that because it shows on the schematic that its getting 24V same as he fan control

R is neutral, terminal 2 on the old set up. (white wire)

E: for ^^^^^^ In the schematic, it looks like terminal R is said to be "hot" which would make it not the neutral, so maybe it should be W/Y - white and R black?
Rather than W/Y black and R white?


So the two wires left are the orange and yellow on the original setup.

The gray and green wires sitting up at the top were like that. I haven't touched them or done anything to them.

AmbassadorofSodomy fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 16, 2021

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012



wesleywillis posted:

W/Y is the same as terminal 1 on the old set up (black) - I deduced that because it shows on the schematic that its getting 24V same as he fan control

R is neutral, terminal 2 on the old set up. (white wire)

I don't think this is correct. Black (1) should go to R on new, white(2) should go to C.

orange goes W/y

yellow Y/A

once again, this leaves violet (6) going ???, it may also go C, but that depends on how the fancoil is wired.

if you can't get us a wiring diagram for the fancoil unit, all we can do is guess. there is no "standard" in hvac.

AmbassadorofSodomy
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!


MRC48B posted:

I don't think this is correct. Black (1) should go to R on new, white(2) should go to C.

orange goes W/y

yellow Y/A

once again, this leaves violet (6) going ???, it may also go C, but that depends on how the fancoil is wired.

if you can't get us a wiring diagram for the fancoil unit, all we can do is guess. there is no "standard" in hvac.

gently caress.
Is it safe to assume that a wiring diagram for the fan coil unit was probably tossed once the building was finished being built?

So, if white and purple both go to C is that safe or am I asking for my fire insurance to go up?


Does this help at all? This is for the 8575D stat but it does say 4 pipe auto switch. (so probably doesn't help at all).





E: since we're on the subject, a few years back, when the property management got the fan coils cleaned in all the units, I was told that my thermostat had a short in it.
I was quoted a price to get the thing replaced and I didn't have the cash so I didn't bother. When I had the unit turned on, one of two things would happen. Either it would be running and then shut off for a second, then turn back on and run normally for......... However long, OR it would not be running, turn on for a second and then shut off.
Is that a symptom of a shittily wired stat or a bad thermostat? Or....?

AmbassadorofSodomy fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Jan 17, 2021

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012



wesleywillis posted:

gently caress.
Is it safe to assume that a wiring diagram for the fan coil unit was probably tossed once the building was finished being built?

most times the documentation gets left with the new owners/management, and the contractor keeps a copy for reference. I have had buildings with hvac documentation thats been kept since 1958. another one got built in 2018 and they lost the binder.

quote:

So, if white and purple both go to C is that safe or am I asking for my fire insurance to go up?

That's the problem, we can't tell you. best failure case is it trips a breaker inside the fancoil and doesn't work until you get it right, middle case is you fry something and it doesn't work until repaired, worst case is an electrical fire.

quote:


Does this help at all? This is for the 8575D stat but it does say 4 pipe auto switch. (so probably doesn't help at all).




nope. we need a diagram of the fancoil and how the pipe valves are wired, not a generic application diagram. it could be similar, or not. thats why theres a giant chart on page 6 of the new stats install manual, listing all the possible control setups.

quote:


E: since we're on the subject, a few years back, when the property management got the fan coils cleaned in all the units, I was told that my thermostat had a short in it.
I was quoted a price to get the thing replaced and I didn't have the cash so I didn't bother. When I had the unit turned on, one of two things would happen. Either it would be running and then shut off for a second, then turn back on and run normally for......... However long, OR it would not be running, turn on for a second and then shut off.
Is that a symptom of a shittily wired stat or a bad thermostat? Or....?

we need to know what is on the other end of the thermostat wires before we can give you answers worth anything. If you are not comfortable with opening the fancoil, or documentation is not available, someone has to trace the wires and figure it out. I recommend calling a professional at this point.

AmbassadorofSodomy
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!


When I was looking inside earlier today, I saw what appeared to be the wires coming from the stat to something inside the wall. Tomorrow I can take the panel off and post up some pics and see what can be seen. Is there anything in specific I should look for? Or just try and show where the wires go to for further identification of how poo poo is wired?

Worst case, I still have to call a pro, best case, I at least don't burn my place down.

E: I'm bored. Took the cover panel off.

Think I found a wiring diagram which may be of use

I'll upload in a few minutes


Fuckin poo poo. Its clear as hell on my phone, but when I download it to my computer its blurry when I blow it up

E: again
I'm an awful photgrapher I guess. Whenever I blow it up on my phone, it looks amazing. As soon as I save it, it (the words etc) looks blurry as gently caress.
I'll gently caress with in in ms paint and try to make it legible.


Thanks a million for the help btw

AmbassadorofSodomy fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Jan 17, 2021

AmbassadorofSodomy
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!


Heres the wiring diagram.

It was blurry as hell when I blew it up, so I just MS painted all the words, markings etc. The lines should be clear enough to decipher

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MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012



loving honeywell. they're running the stats in 4pipe mode, but using two + eheat at the fancoil.

try the following, no warranty. if it doesn't work call someone:

old stat new stat
1 (black) R
2 (white) C
3 (orange) W/Y
4 (yellow) Y/A
5 No number 5
6 violet:
on the old stat this was used to run the fan. on the new stat this doesn't seem necessary. according the to the manual it should run automatically.
cut the copper off the end and cap and tape it.

7:red Glow
8: blue g med
9: brown g high

cut the copper off the green and greys, and cap/tape them as well.

in stat setup your system type is Four pipes: Manual and Auto Changeover (Default), option 7
you apparently have electric heat but the fancoil handles the changeover. if the electric heat doesn't work, you will have to get someone out to rewire stuff.

if you continue to have the intermittent operation problem, it could be anything from poo poo connections somewhere to a bad, w6380 relay board, I can't diagnose via forum post, call someone.

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