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Looking in to adding a mini-split to my soon-to-be office. Those following along other threads will (soon) recognize this as "the room behind that terrifying door in the back of my garage." Which brands should I be looking at? My dad has ~5 Fujitsu units ( (Some #) ASU24RLB + (5) AOU18RLXFZ) which he is very happy with for the two years (on average) that he has had them installed. They are not all on a single property, and so far so good they're putting up with the desert heat. I am leaning that way, but looking at their dealer locator I've found 2 companies that appear to be at all on the level, but one doesn't seem to do small residential jobs anymore, and the other one all of the negative reviews (~5%) are for $600 start/run capacitor swaps, every one from people who seemingly didn't get a quote ahead of time. While I know there are some bad apples in any review system, and you should ask "how much" before they start work,  . The vendor even replied attempting to justify the cost.I'm pending one bid from "the local person everyone uses" (recall the studs from my plumbing line? Yeah it's that company, not that installer.) They're also the ones you use when you must pay the most. They are a Lennox dealer, and after thinking he said Linux twice I understood him. He spitballed $4200 in my driveway, which seems at least $1000 too much. DkHelmet posted:Ask for the model numbers and the AHRI certificate for the pair of the condensor and coil. My condensor is 17.5 SEER but paired with my coil it's 15. Without knowing both halves of the equation you don't know what you're getting. They should be matched and registered in the AHRI lookup database otherwise you may be getting a poo poo deal. Neat, thank you. Jaxyon posted:It's hot as balls in Los Angeles, any good guides on how to use my central air most efficiently? Hello from also los angeles. Thick curtains, double paned windows, and insulation. R-value will save your bacon. It was night and day when we insulated our house. Same AC unit ran half as long or less. Blowing cellulose into your attic is probably $2500 before rebates, same for your walls. Change your filter.
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Sep 12, 2018 05:07
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ExplodingSims posted:As far as brands go, Mitsubishi and Fujistu are pretty much top of the line. I'll see if they can solo install it through a series of sketchy ratchet straps.  Good to know on the Lennox, I was hoping to get one of the Japanese megaconglomerate brands. I want a unit that's going to last and be quiet to run. It's not a particularly difficult install, but it will be running basically 12 hours a day. Fair enough on the price, I had $3200 for 1 inside + 1 outside unit in my head for unknown reasons. It's around 25' of refrigerant lines, 50' of electrical, plus whatever is needed to mount the unit to the ground (concrete pad?) Single zone 12k btu. Edit: Got the bid. $4650 https://www.lennoxpros.com/mpb012s4s-1p-mini-split-heat-pump-outdoor-unit-single-zone/p/15U43 https://www.lennoxpros.com/ms8-hi-18p1a-mini-split-single-zone-heat-pump-indoor-unit-208-230v1-phase60-hz18000-btuh-capacity/p/82W99 Those appear to be mismatched so I'm going to ask them about that. I hate that manufacturers don't put MSRP on their websites. (This is not exclusive to this industry.) H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Sep 13, 2018 |
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Sep 12, 2018 05:48
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H110Hawk posted:Edit: Got the bid. $4650 Well then, the sketchy company that charges $600 for a capacitor swap thinks I need a 2 ton unit for this 10x20 room (ish), which has insulation and modern doors/windows. When asked why I needed such a big unit when one not much larger cools my 1250 sq ft house he sorta sputtered and went down to 1.5 tons. $6,758 I asked for the model numbers and he said verbally Grainger item 49CK54, the estimate says Fujitsu Halcyon system.https://www.grainger.com/product/FRIEDRICH-Split-System-Heat-Pump-49CK54 I retract my opinion of the other vendor being too high.
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Sep 21, 2018 21:34
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B-Nasty posted:Is there a general consensus on the in-duct ionization air purifiers? That's actually their selling point. MRC48B posted:The advantage of inverter-driven ductless systems like that Freidrich J system, is that they can modulate themselves down if the load isn't very high. Yeah, that's what has me going towards these minisplit heat pump dealies: The "only draw what you need" aspect is really nice once the room is up to temp. I just don't want to pay a ton (  )extra for capacity I don't need. Looking at this comparison it seems it's $400 and a surprising number of db: https://www.grainger.com/product/compare#compareSkus%3D454H42%2C49CK54 . Seems the higher BTU one supports a much lower CFM on low. The DBA of the 12k btu unit is the same as the equivalent Lennox on both the 12k and 19k versions.I will admit to going into this one prejudiced against this contractor.
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Sep 22, 2018 00:43
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 I'm going to contact the Lennox company and ask which matched unit they want to use so I can get my AHRI certificate. Somehow it's the loudest indoor unit at its lowest speed, but I might also be reading the wrong units information. I also need to remind myself that my dishwasher I can barely hear running is like 49dba. The Mitsubishi+Daikin is one company who does a "value" and a "high end" install, they really like their Daikin, claiming a 10 year parts warranty, and an add-on $250 10 year labor warranty. The Fujitsu company sketched me out, didn't give me accurate model numbers, and really thought I needed a 24k unit for a room half the size of a 2-car garage. I likely don't need the HERS certificate, I'm going to ask about it. It was listed as optional. I realize there is an unknown amount of sales tax in all of these bids, and I'm going to ask the two remaining companies what that will be since I don't have a parts and labor breakout. Overall I am leaning Mitsubishi, that company seemed to do the most listening and when I described what I wanted, and told me straight out when something I said was a bad idea plus why. https://www.lennoxpros.com/docs/Technical/210633.pdf http://meus1.mylinkdrive.com/files/MSZ-GL12NA-U1-MUZ-GL12NA-U1_ProductDataSheet.pdf I know this is rambling, typing it out into the void helps me think.
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Sep 27, 2018 01:26
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milk moosie posted:Boston will be getting a cold weekend, so I wanted to make sure the heat (forced air of some sort) was working properly. I found out that only two out of five vents had hot air flowing through it, and not particularly much of it. The other three were stone cold. I called the landlord and two times he sent a technician over Don't feel bad that your landlord is sending out apparently the worlds worst HVAC technician. Are you there when the tech is there? Are they being told 3/5ths of your vents don't work? You need to be there and demonstrate the problem, as obviously your landlord isn't telling the technician what is broken, severely underpaying them, they're scamming your landlord, or some combination of the above. When they say "it works" ask them what temperature the air is blowing out of all 5 vents, and go feel them for yourself before they leave.
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Oct 13, 2018 01:30
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Crotch Fruit posted:My Rheem furnace is not staying lit. It lights for a couple minutes and has a solid green and a flashing orange light. After a couple minutes, it kills the flame then waits and relights only to shut off after two seconds before locking out with a flashing green light. Was the green light blinking a set number of times then pausing? My crap brand one blinks X number of times to indicate the failure. There is a code on the inside of the metal access panel. Like 3 times-pause for draft failure, 4 times for lack of flame, etc.
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Nov 13, 2018 16:36
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Crotch Fruit posted:It was blinking 3 times and then pausing but as of this morning it was staying on solid. I left the house with the furnace running, I think my furnace is fine, but I still intend to call a tech to come by during normal non $$$emergency hours$$$ like every previous year. At this point, I am mostly just paranoid that the sandpaper I used might have been to aggressive, google said if you scratch the probe it could shorten it's life. Lookup the code. If you think you damaged the sensor you can save a bunch of money buying one right now before it's an emergency. You already know how to replace it seemingly.
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Nov 13, 2018 17:14
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Sir Lemming posted:We have an actual technician coming over today, so we'll see what he says, but I wanted to get a goon opinion as well. For the past month or so, we've frequently been getting alerts from our Ecobee thermostat that the Aux heat has been running too long. It didn't happen last year, and not a whole lot has changed about the house (I had a few theories but they're not really worth mentioning, I'm pretty sure they were wrong). We live in North Carolina so it is not exactly arctic temperatures around here, and we've barely had anything that could be considered cold snaps yet. There are definitely things about the house that need fixing to help with the HVAC efficiency, but again, there's no clear reason it would be worse than last year. I mean, is there hot air coming from the registers with regular heat on? ALL of the registers? What kind of system is your regular and aux heat? It's plausible that your regular heat has failed in some way the ecobee isn't learning about, or you've sprung a leak somewhere, or you really need to change your filter.
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Dec 31, 2018 17:43
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Nevvy Z posted:My cat got into a crawl space under my kitchen and to get him out I had to pull a vent out of the floor. Now I've got a duct in my basement just hanging open. How bad is this? I mean you're dumping air at full duct pressure into your crawl space. How much do you run your forced air?
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Jan 15, 2019 18:13
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MRC48B posted:Is your blower running, in the right direction, and are the blades on the wheel clean. And on that note are all of your vents blowing with the force you would expect them to? Same temperature on all of them?
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Jan 26, 2019 19:26
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SpartanIvy posted:So my HVAC guy sent me a quote for fixing the vent issues and he wants to replace my leaky rigid vents with flex vents which I feel is unnecessary. They're old and leaky but I bet they can be fixed with the application of even more mastic to the joints. The main unit to vent interface needs to be totally redone, but I think the vents themselves are okay. Hes also going to fix up my air intake plenum which is super janky and (at my request) install a multi media air filter box on the unit in the attic instead of the 20x20x1 filter intake vent thing in my living room. Once he's up there ripping stuff apart you might find the marginal cost of having him do "everything" is fairly low - especially if anything goes wrong in the future or you break something DIY'ing stuff directly after him. If anything, do you DIY crap first. (I have no opinion on the rigid/flex vents thing)
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Apr 8, 2019 17:23
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skipdogg posted:I’ll go up and check the handlers again tomorrow morning. Pretty sure my attic is way too hot right now. I don't know what sort of temperature you're fighting outside, but if a 1 year old house can't hold temp on modern construction something is seriously broken. My leaky as hell 1947 house can hold temp on a low-mid grade system now that we blew in insulation against 110F+. Are you sure both units are actually blowing cold air? That none of your walls are suspiciously hot or cold? 4.5 tons seems like a decent amount for a correctly insulated house, but I am a lay person when it comes to HVAC.
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Jun 20, 2019 00:10
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skipdogg posted:Your post got me thinking. Upstairs is usually a little less humid than downstairs, and both returns are on the second floor. The fresh air sensor is in the return duct work, so it's possible it was sensing air with less than 60% humidity, although downstairs it was still more than that. I can tell a slight difference upstairs after I changed it to 55% yesterday afternoon. Why not set it to like 20% and let it rip? Something which will be really obviously lower. 55-60% I would presume is somewhat within the error bars of a system like this. Do you have anything which can reach the intake on the outside of your house? (Any long stick or ladder.) You could test the draft there with a piece of tissue.
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Jun 28, 2019 17:02
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TraderStav posted:I had 1 year labor, 10 year parts apparently. I'll dig out the docs when I get home, so am at a bit of a disadvantage at the moment. The link you posted to the refrigerant is extremely helpful though. I'm intending to challenge this more on the unfair rate they are charging me rather than the covering it outright. If they won't budge, see if you can buy a labor warranty on the spot "if you will cover this callout." Buy one to match the parts warranty if they will do it. Really 3 years is a way too short a period for a part to fail. Was it a fitting they did, line failure, or a part itself leaking? If it was part of their workmanship (fittings, pipes) I would push pretty hard for them to good-faith fix it for you. Part of the issue is it might be 100F outside where you are so they know they have you over the barrel. Aside: My GC brought out a licensed HVAC installer yesterday to fix my minisplit which had a kinked lineset. 3 or 4 guys for 3-4 hours in 100F heat, I cannot imagine what it cost the GC. They are good-faith fixing the issue as it was their screw up which made it hard to fix in the first place. It is now blowing ice cold air.
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Aug 29, 2019 22:17
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TraderStav posted:Recap of the discussion. Sounds like a good company and a fair deal.
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Aug 30, 2019 13:55
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brand engager posted:Does the outdoor unit usually have some kind of thermal limit switch? Mine won't turn on and kinda buzzes/hums for a few seconds at a time and then stops for a few. I cut the power and felt the fan motor and compressor, both were hot but not hot enough to be painful to touch. I haven't had any prior trouble with it but today was 104 outside, so I'm hoping it just cut off from getting too hot. Thermostat has been set to 75 all summer Sounds like time for a new start/run capacitor.
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Sep 8, 2019 05:26
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brand engager posted:It's running Root cause? (  )
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Sep 9, 2019 19:34
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TheBananaKing posted:Only place within spitting distance of me is a Ferguson Supply and at this particular shop, at least, they won't even talk to me without an account number. I was joking about the unions thing, but it's loving lovely that I can't go out and buy the exact part that I can see in their inventory online without being a registered LLC, or whatever I would need to do. Sometimes this is due to a tax certificate thing. They do not collect sales tax for anyone and you being the end user breaks that so they refuse. It's not personal.
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Sep 10, 2019 01:17
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SpartanIvy posted:Yeah I get that and I am in no way arguing my dumb idea is better in any way except cost, but that's kind of an important one for this application since I'm not going to be using it a ton and the value for a better system just isn't there. You can get a 9k minisplit for under a grand self-installed on 120v. Money is a valid concern obviously. 12k btu tends to be where they require 220v.
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Sep 18, 2019 15:48
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SpartanIvy posted:It's all on one 16amp circuit that is possibly shared with the kitchen, definitely shared with some other room if not the kitchen. I mean if you line dry your clothes the minisplit could help!  Depending on the size of the wire to your garage you could swap in a subpanel. You said you wanted a $2000 ac unit for a few days a year right?
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Sep 18, 2019 18:27
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ExplodingSims posted:Well, I mean, ideally you should have two float switches, one on the unit, and another in the overflow pan to kill the unit automatically. What I love about home automation is all the high tech internet required stuff that insists on my interaction to solve basic problems. It's definitely better than a $5 limit switch.
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Sep 22, 2019 04:29
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SourKraut posted:How bad is the high pitched whine? The unit will be outside our bedroom and it’s your standard 90s wood frame poor builder-grade house. On the lower settings my in-laws massive carrier unit with variable speed that was top of the line 7? 10? Years ago is confusingly quiet at low speed standing next to it. Single unit, multi zone, single floor, 2500 Sq ft ranch style (aka one long row of rooms) house.
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Oct 12, 2019 03:52
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iForge posted:with similar energy savings through variable speed components. Just getting into the current generation of technology is going to have a noticeable difference in your electric bill. From there it's splitting hairs. All of these things are orders of magnitude and checking the variable speed box is what gets you the difference. One service call will eat all energy savings for the first 5 years between the 16 and 18 SEER units. Replacing these modern variable speed units with stuff in the 20 seer range is going to be so disappointing to people remembering going from their 1980's ->2000->201x model year units barring some massive breakthrough. Most of your gains from there need to be coupled with building envelope improvements.
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Oct 20, 2019 17:22
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SourKraut posted:It's not a huge jump from two-stage to the XV18 for most of the quotes though, which is part of why I've been favoring going with variable speed. If you have a good building around it (insulation, double paned windows, generally sealed up / not leaky, lighter colored roof, radiant barrier as a bonus, and heat generation things aren't dumping into the house) then you might see a huge benefit from the variable speed ones. They will run all day long at their lowest speed and use almost no power doing it. You actually have to get over any previous training to adjust your thermostat - if it holds temperature well it can use more power to bring it down at full bore than just sitting there doing its thing all day right at your set point.
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Oct 20, 2019 20:12
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BonoMan posted:We got a brand new Trane system installed a month ago. Just tried to kick the heater on for the first time (AC has worked fine) and it doesn't work. Nest acts like it's on, but there's nothing blowing. Any quick tips before I call the HVAC company? A month ago? Just call them to come fix it. The more you gently caress with it the more likely it is they will say you broke it. If they try to charge you just thank them for their service and how grateful you are for the good will service. If they insist you will know that they should never be called again and need a 1 star yelp review.
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Oct 27, 2019 17:44
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BonoMan posted:No they'll come fix it for free. Just while I wait, since it's a Sunday, I was hoping there was a simple "oh for the Nest you just need to reset ..." fix real quick. My suggestion is to throw the nest in the trash where it belongs but that has nothing to do with your heating problem. I just really dislike iot garbage, especially the stuff peddled by Google and Amazon.  (But yeah, I would wait impatiently. It sucks as a problem solver but it's sometimes the best strategy.)
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Oct 27, 2019 18:38
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I mean you could perhaps tap that a few times to shift the rust and make it a immediate concern. I would make sure it's not set to scalding temperatures first. Or don't you live your best life.
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Nov 13, 2019 16:05
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Jaded Burnout posted:At the very least I'd be concerned it's ready to split open and flood the place for reals. This is what I was suggesting might happen.
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Nov 13, 2019 17:54
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angryrobots posted:I don't think there's any danger of that water tank becoming a pressure vessel, lmao I mean not for long anyways. Something something moment of inertia.
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Nov 13, 2019 19:32
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Motronic posted:Eh....that's still a $300 Home Depot special. It just looks like a better one. Plus, they rent. Assuming they aren't paying for the gas into that thing who cares?
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Nov 15, 2019 01:20
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Phy posted:The noise begins before the audible ignition of the flame, and I thought the intended sequence of events was That sounds correct. If you get up to it hopefully they've installed a quarter-turn gas shutoff valve. There should be an error code it's blinking at you for failure to detect a draft. Pull your thermostat (or kill power) and try to turn your inducer by hand. I bet the bearing on it is shot. If it is, kill power formally at the breaker and replace it. It's fairly straight forward if you have the right tools, but getting the parts might be a multi-day affair if you can't find a local parts counter willing to sell to you. Watch some youtube videos on it.
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Jan 8, 2020 23:03
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Someone not suggesting you basically bury your attic in insulation should be discounted out of hand unless you have a strict budget you need to adhere to and your ductwork has other leaks or is on its last legs. Option 1 person seems like they're trying to sell you a used Buick with the hard sell. Option 2 person sounds great even before I got to the price. Make sure this includes all the work to get your attic insulation ready - can lights need to be verified as rated for insulation contact, other things need little dams built around them, you probably could go for a little air sealing as well. If you have a huge attic hatch you should insulate and seal that as well. That's actually really fast and easy if it's just a literal hatch and not an integrated ladder thing. Do your walls have insulation in them? If not, add it there too. Preventing heat exchange passively means you don't have to burn energy to do it wildly inefficiently through HVAC. Option 3 person should be filling out one of those little worksheets that takes into account everything about the house. How old is your furnace? I would ask for a option 4 person, or call up option 2 person and ask what about option 3 person's bid is right/wrong and why. They should all be taking the time to explain these things to you in clear language. Here in Los Angeles County it's around $2000/option to do things (attic insulation, lovely ductwork, wall insulation) so I can't imagine it being massively more expensive there, even accounting for the I presume larger house.
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Jan 25, 2020 21:06
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Gin_Rummy posted:It is indeed in the attic with the current ducts. You raise a good point and I agree... I’m currently mulling over the idea of actually just running new ducts myself before it heats up again this year. The material isn’t that expensive, and I’d probably still have plenty in my budget to let Company 2 come in after (at a cheaper price, since they won’t have to wrap ducts anymore) and fill my attic with good insulation. If you're willing to do the hard part (ductwork) then you can 100% diy the insulation blowing. Your ducting and furnace may well be on their way out. You need to find people who are willing to explain why in clear terms. "it's 30 years old" is actually somewhat valid, but they should be able to speak to the why it matters. Old stuff was wildly inefficient and might actually be hot to the touch under normal operation (though that seems dangerous.)
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Jan 26, 2020 01:25
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Call the company which did that major work and tell them your concerns and problems. They should be willing to come out a quarter later and give it a tune on the house. It isn't always possible to get things exactly right the first time with flow balancing short of a huge engineering exercise. Make sure that you know which doors being open/closed cause you which problems.
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Jan 27, 2020 17:17
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Pollyanna posted:
It's a closed system if you ignore the living space. Either you filter the return or the exhaust. My filter goes in my one return which means the air blowing through the furnace and ducts is prefiltered.
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Feb 13, 2020 19:24
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How does that work when the ducts from top box all go their own separate ways? I can’t think of a way that a centralized location for the filter in my own apartment could possibly work.
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corgski posted:What kind of bougie-rear end landlord doesn’t expect tenants to be responsible for their own furnace filters? (and pilot lights if the furnace is old enough) My apartment in Pasadena they came by quarterly and swapped the filters. I never actually found out where they went as we were never home when they did it. They even gave us a weeks notice. It was by no means a bougie apartment complex and there was a lot of otherwise deferred maintenance going on.
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Feb 14, 2020 16:21
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I. M. Gei posted:I’m hoping this thread can tell me which of these 3 window A/Cs is the best for a bedroom about 25’x25’, because the PYF Product Recommendation thread keeps ignoring me every time I ask there. Check out the rated amps on the units specifications. The LG is 11.5 which is more or less the whole 15amp breaker assuming a usual 80% overhead. If you have other high draw items on the same circuit you might have to only ever use it on the eco settings (likely very quiet) all day long rather than on demand to maintain temperature. If the circuit is 20a this is less of a concern. If you have to pull a new circuit you might want to consider a ductless minisplit for several times the cost. Or at least pulling 220v power on 12/3 or 10/3. That would let you use the more efficient units or even switch to a ductless in the future. They are super quiet, which if you are concerned with the noise level might be a premium worth paying to you.
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Mar 15, 2020 22:49
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I. M. Gei posted:Okay I kiiiiiinda understand that top paragraph but your bottom one is mostly gibberish to me. What in the hot gently caress is a “ductless minisplit”? What is “12/3”? What is “10/3”? I guess those last two questions don’t really matter since I can’t put in a 220V setup, but what is this dickless miniskirt whatever-the-gently caress-you-said? They're all the rage basically everywhere that isn't the USA. They use heat pumps and magic to move heat around, either in or out of the room. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Heating-Venting-Cooling-Ductless-Mini-Splits/Single-Zone/N-5yc1vZc4m1Z1z0y63v They are startlingly efficient and nearly silent once the room reaches the set point. If you're on 1x 15A breaker in this room and cannot/will not hire an electrician to pull a new circuit you're going to need to at least finger in the wind the draw in your room, assuming it's dedicated to your room. I assume you aren't renting based on your brick drilling adventures in the other thread. Your desktop PC and accessories might be, but probably isn't unless you have some crazy gaming/buttcoin computer going on. A kill-a-watt (amazon) might be worth it for you here. Plug you high draw stuff into it (computer, TV, things you want to run concurrently with the AC, anything with a heating/cooling element to it - minifridge?) and then into the wall. Then get them doing the hardest thing you do - video games or streaming movies, etc. Sum it all up. Modern PC's throttle way down when not being stressed so just turning it on and logging in isn't sufficient, you need to be doing whatever it is you do on there. First though, go kill the breaker for your room. Now go plug to plug and make sure they are in fact all dead, and that none of your other rooms are dead. If you're renting this room from a larger house or whatever, coordinate this with the other tenants so you don't plunge them into darkness on accident. Don't worry about your ceiling fan, they're generally low draw. To directly answer your question as posed - I would gut-feeling only by "Energy Star" rated units, and probably from LG or similar, not GE. I'm sure the GE one would be fine, but I bet you get better performance in the metrics you care about (db per btu, btu per watt) out of the LG. I also haven't done any research on this. I put a 1-ton (12k btu) hitachi ductless minisplit in my similarly sized office, it's great.
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Mar 15, 2020 23:35
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bitprophet posted:Hoping the passage of time means double posting ain't so bad: curious if I can start a short brand war here between Carrier and the Japanese minisplit makers like Fujitsu and Mitsubishi? When one looks up mini splits online (or asks friends, etc) everyone only seems to like, or have, the Japanese brands. I wound up buying what I'm sure Fujitsu will call a black market Halcyon unit and having a random HVAC contractor install it. I'm pretty sure the cost spread between my unit and having a "~certified~" installer do it means I need to get 5 years out of it before replacing it would be break even. My dad also has like 6 of the units across his 3 properties, no clue on if he used a "certified" installer or not.
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Apr 15, 2020 15:16
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