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Aquila posted:So I am looking into buying an AC unit for my Grandma and am trying to figure out roughly how much this will cost before I bring out someone for an estimate. She lives in Socal and removed the unit the house had when she moved in 25 years ago, according to her the coil is still there and drained of the refrigerant. I suspect after 25 years that stuff will not be reusable, but hopefully the install won't be to hard since the infrastructure is still there. The house is 1750sqft 3bdrm two story. I am hoping to spend less than $4000 (probably split with other family members) and am wondering if any knows roughly how much this stuff costs. Also I am considering using the Costco/Lennox deal, with various promos it will be zero interest and ~14% cash back. She's in California. Have you checked if there are any rebates or tax credits for energy efficient models? I got a feeling if any state had that stuff, it'd be CA.
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Jul 10, 2016 01:31
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JimbobDobalina posted:The arsehole previous owner of my house had an ac installed some years ago, and left the drain pipe coming out underneath the floor of an outbuilding, consequently rotting out the floor structure from having untreated wood sitting in standing water. I've torn down the lovely outbuilding, and am planning on building a concrete patio area in its place. Right now, the drain is dripping onto the dirt where the building was, and there is enough water coming out to leave a 2 sq ft puddle by the end of the day. I don't really want this much water dripping onto the concrete I plan to lay, but my yard is also sloped such that the outlet would be below ground level if I was to extend it out beyond the pad. Some ideas: Do you have a floor drain to run it to instead? Would it be possible to turn the corner outside and follow the wall? Are you going to pave everything? Could you leave a spot for a garden? Another idea is that you could leave a outdoor floor drain there and run the exit somewhere down slope, maybe even hook into a downspout that is close.
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Jul 18, 2016 19:55
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JimbobDobalina posted:Good point. I'll drop the pipe into a couple of potted plants for now, and if they get waterlogged I'll have to come up with a better plan. How far away from the edge of a concrete pad is it ok to have the drain so that the moisture doesn't damage the concrete? Potted plants are not a permanent solution. The next owner could get rid of them then wonder why there's a puddle there. Either leave a hole in your concrete pad for a garden there (nothing outrageous, maybe 2'x2') or put in an outdoor drain. Water does the most damage to concrete when it freezes. Do you normally run your AC during the winter? Also, what's making you use the existing exit from your house? Could you move the hole somewhere else? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jul 20, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 22:21
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Be glad you don't work in China. https://i.imgur.com/o0E3Xoi.gifv
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Jul 22, 2016 15:20
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borkencode posted:A couple weeks ago our downstairs thermostat started acting strange, kept switching to heat instead of cool, at first we thought the nanny was messing with it. I then saw it was running on battery power, off of ancient batteries, and it was just resetting itself. Just for the record, is the switch on? If you know just enough to be dangerous, do you have a multimeter to check how far into the furnace the power makes it?
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Sep 28, 2016 04:37
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borkencode posted:OK, just double checked, and it does look like it's the transformer. Any? If you want it to fit the 2 existing screw mounting holes, probably not any. But yeah, that sounds like you need a new transformer. edit: you did get 120v off those black and white leads feeding the transformer?
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Sep 30, 2016 06:24
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Fauxtool posted:hopefully this is the right thread, if not please point me to it. You've got 2 wires going to your Y terminal. You probably don't need 2 there and can probably free up the black wire there to be your C. Go down and look at your furnace. Which terminals do the wires go in there?
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Feb 7, 2018 02:55
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Minidust posted:I've got an oooooooold in-wall air conditioner that works fine on a functional level. However, strong winds will cause it to make loud farting noises when it's not in use. Like lately there's this nor'easter going on, and the thing just farts loudly all night, it's terrible. I even removed the front cover and stuffed some foam inside the vent, to keep the wheel thing from moving, but it's not that because the farting noise continues. Ever hear of anything like this?? It sound like some moving component is to blame. I know the best solution is "get a new unit" but that's $500 I'd rather not spend when the thing still cools just fine. Get a dog. Blame it on the dog. Problem solved. This is just AC, right? Couldn't you just wrap the thing in a tarp?
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Mar 7, 2018 22:20
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What's up with my AC? It's cool but not cold, and it looks like I'm over $800 in the hole now with nothing to show for it. I got a 15 SEER unit installed back when you could get the tax credit and it worked perfectly until 2 weeks ago. I called out a different local company with great reviews online to come take a look. He tells me my outdoor unit is dirty (it was), I needed the TXV adjusted, a hard start kit since I had a TXV and that my outdoor unit is 2 ton while indoors it's 3 ton. I have no idea it he's right or not. He also adjusted the blower to blow slower. Anyway, he does his work and it worked... for 2 weeks. So this time I decide to check it myself. The fan outside wasn't spinning. I pull the quick disconnect, open up the panel and immediately notice that the starter cap is bulging out both ends. I take it out, test it with my multimeter and this thing had zero capacitance on both its fan and compressor sides. Somehow the guy didn't notice the bulging top 2 weeks ago when he was attaching the hard start kit to its terminals. So I call the company and they send out the same guy. I tell him it's not cold and the starter cap is dead. He goes out, verifies this, comes back inside and tells me that it'll be $300 to swap the cap. For a $30 part. I politely told him to go pound sand. I went out, bought the right cap and swapped it in. The fan spins now, but I'm right back where I started. It's cool now but not cold, so it runs constantly. I also can't find the manuals anywhere that were resting on top of filter slot. He might have swiped them. I got a couple questions. 1. how do I verify if my indoor and outdoor stuff is indeed mismatched in capacity? 2. could a hard start kit kill my starter cap? 3. do I even need a hard start kit if my system worked fine for 7 years without one? 4. what should I do to get cold AC again? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Aug 7, 2018 |
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Aug 6, 2018 23:59
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ExplodingSims posted:1. Two ways. Either look at the BTU rating and divide it by 12000, or look at the model number, depends on the make, but there should be a string of 3 numbers in the middle you can divide by 12 and that will give you the tonnage. Hey, thanks for replying! To me, it does indeed look like a bunch of mismatched poo poo. I thought I got a 15 SEER back in the day, but according to the model number on the condenser outside, it's a Goodman model SSX160241BA. According to what I found Googling around, that's a 16 SEER 2 ton. As for the coils inside, they're Goodman model CAPF3636B6DA, which should be 3 tons at 13 SEER. The F in the third character of the model number stands for Flowrator instead of a TXV too. However, the condenser manual specifies a TXV. How screwed am I? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Aug 7, 2018 |
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Aug 7, 2018 17:59
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Motronic posted:Sounds like a standard Goodman install. Eh, as it turns out, the original company that installed it didn't go out of business like I thought, they just moved to the other side of the county. The must be somewhat reputable if the guy was trying to upsell me to Amana. I just found my original invoice from 7 years ago and it says I got an expansion valve. It also says they mismatched the condenser and coils too. Anyway, my valve has "MWP 680" written on it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Aug 8, 2018 |
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Aug 8, 2018 00:04
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iForge posted:I recommend getting a reputable company to come look at it. So I did that. I got the original installers out. The stupid thing just needed refrigerant. He had to reverse what the first guy did, but now it's blowing cold again! Cheap too. 
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Aug 8, 2018 21:23
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Motronic posted:Holy hell - you had a repair guy out there that was too stupid to figure out the fastest and most profitable thing for them to do would have fixed it? Already done. Also, thank you all for your help. If you come around St. Louis, I owe you a beer. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Aug 8, 2018 |
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Aug 8, 2018 22:02
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iForge posted:Now just bear in mind, systems don't consume refrigerant, so that means you have a leak somewhere and unless they fixed it you will have the same problem anywhere between a couple months to a couple years down the road. How bad does that happen compared to a car AC system? Car ACs bounce and shake around a lot more, so some loss is expected over the years.
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Aug 10, 2018 22:27
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TheBananaKing posted:Whole house dehumidifying. Anyone have any brand recommendations? The Santa Fe stuff looks nice and reasonable priced. Are they reliable? We actually have a HVAC thread here in DIY.
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Feb 2, 2019 02:51
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This will not stand and I need to do something to fix it before my solid hardwood floors explode this year.
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TheBananaKing posted:But... Isn't that... This thread? gently caress. I just saw nipples and ballcocks. Y'all need your own thread title.
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Feb 3, 2019 01:11
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nwin posted:I need some help understanding a humidistat and a whole-house humidifier. Turn the humidifier off in the summer. Most of the heat in air is carried by the humidity. If you go look at your AC while it's running, you'll see it dripping water. That water was humidity in the air. The less humidity you have in the air, the cooler it will be. Fun fact: air conditioners were first invented as humidity control devices. Printers in the late 1800s needed a way to keep all their paper from getting wrinkled while in storage. The fact that this device made the air cooler was secondary. So yeah, don't add to the humidity in your house during the summer. Turn it off.
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Jun 8, 2020 20:02
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