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1500quidporsche posted:Which brings us to the task at hand: I would use a closed end wrench on those to start. It looks like you have enough room to get it on. I wouldn't be terribly concerned about you rounding those as long as you don't use a ratchet at least until you break them free.
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Jan 31, 2016 18:41
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Soak them in penetrating oil and get a tight fit socket & breaker bar on them. Or pull the rad and then you have enough access to get an impact wrench on there.
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Jan 31, 2016 19:03
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Also a six point wrench penetrating oil and a rubber mallet or deadblow. Just hit the wrench I use it on own trucks and other rusty Midwest vehicles and it works all the time. Also there's so many awesome rotary threads in here lately. Makes it hard to not want one.
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Jan 31, 2016 19:11
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If they're questionable I'm not a big fan of breaking free with sockets if you can avoid it based on my 70s-80s Nissan fastener experience. A good closed end wrench was always my go to along with a small snipe/breaker bar if necessary. I don't think you're going to get an impact behind that fan without some magic.
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Jan 31, 2016 19:12
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Yeah getting a impact through the fan would be questionable, you can get a closed end on its just awkward and the couple of tries I had either it slipped off or the pulley started slipping before the bolts moved. I soaked them down with penetrating oil before I left there yesterday. I do see why you kept bitching about the power steering pump now McTinkerson, its really in the stupidest place possible. Its one of those things that if I hadn't started the day off snapping the rad drain plug's top off I'd be a lot more confident doing it. But as it is I'd rather have a second set of hands and eyes just to make sure I'm not loving poo poo up worse.
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Jan 31, 2016 19:32
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Closed end wrench, an extension of some sorts, and give it sharp smacks to try and break it. Slow and easy on a belt pulley is not typically the best technique unless you can somehow lock it into place.
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Jan 31, 2016 21:20
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That's a really common problem on 80's Volvos too. If you can't get a closed end wrench on it, grind one thinner until it goes on. Also buy one of these to hold the pulley, it works awesome: http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-locking-chain-clamp I use mine all the loving time, on shocks, drive shafts, all the engine pulleys, wheel spacers, you name it. Anything large and round that I need to hold still.
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Feb 1, 2016 04:19
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SouthsideSaint posted:Also a six point wrench penetrating oil and a rubber mallet or deadblow. Just hit the wrench I use it on own trucks and other rusty Midwest vehicles and it works all the time. My method of choice for breaking poo poo loose. I'm kinda surprised I haven't stripped a ratchet while pounding on it with a rubber mallet but the impact seems to knock things loose much better (and is easier on my body/hands to boot to just swing a hammer) and I haven't broken a bolt in this fashion yet.
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Feb 1, 2016 14:35
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Learn how to remove fan clutch bolts with ease using this One Weird Trick!
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Feb 1, 2016 14:49
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Also if you don't have a set of long wrenches invest in some, the extra length makes a big difference in situations like that with more clearance and torque. Those nuts don't look rusted at all, they should come off just fine with a little torque put on them.
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Feb 1, 2016 16:49
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My dad has an astonishing amount of tools including some box end wrenches that would give plenty of leverage. Fortunately when I mentioned to him I would probably be using the garage to work on the car with him away for the weekend he made sure to lock up half his tools including where those box ends are.
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Feb 1, 2016 17:32
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Just use two box wrenches. Use the closed end to hook onto the open one's jaw.
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Feb 1, 2016 17:36
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Slung Blade posted:Just use two box wrenches. Use the closed end to hook onto the open one's jaw. Awww yeah.
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Feb 1, 2016 20:02
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I'd try to use as big a wrench as possible for the one you are using as the extension since you'll be bending it in the weak axis and you'll want it as stiff as possible 
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Feb 1, 2016 21:55
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I would seriously just use a cheap rear end box wrench and a small hammer. Make sure the bolts aren't left hand threaded first. How are you keeping the pulley still while you crank? If the bolts pop you can yank the intake plumbing and have a pretty straight shot in there with a drill, but they probably won't pop if you've lubed them up pretty well with deep creep/pb blaster and tapped the head a few times first. I have one of the chain clamps described by LloydDobler new in box, I bought it on impulse because it seemed like the kind of thing I might need one day. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 21:58
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The (4) 10mm nuts are secured to 4 studs inserted to the water pump's hub. If you are replacing the water pump, most kits come with new studs. To remove the (4) nuts, take a small breaker bar or large flat head screw driver and jam it between one of the 10MM nuts, opposing the nut you want to remove. Use a closed end wrench and break each nut free, working your way around the pulley. Pop off the fan, being careful to not damage the radiator. There's little chance you will damage the fan, from experience it will more likely damage you. If you have any questions, just ask.
the spyder fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 22:16
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the spyder posted:The (4) 10mm nuts are secured to 4 studs inserted to the water pump's hub. If you are replacing the water pump, most kits come with new studs. To remove the (4) nuts, take a small breaker bar or large flat head screw driver and jam it between one of the 10MM nuts, opposing the nut you want to remove. Use a closed end wrench and break each nut free, working your way around the pulley. Pop off the fan, being careful to not damage the radiator. There's little chance you will damage the fan, from experience it will more likely damage you. If you have any questions, just ask. This is the only way I was able to get the fan off last time I did it. The studs are super easy to replace and there is no reason to wrestle with it.
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Feb 2, 2016 00:19
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So yeah large flathead screwdriver as a wedge was the way to go. Made things a lot easier. My dad insisted we save the studs after though despite there already being four new ones. Things got fairly interesting when we took all the bolts off the water pump and it refused to move, but the thermostat housing that it's attached to did. I'm pretty sure that's where the leak was from since there was a ton of gunk under there and that thing broke loose almost effortlessly compared to the water pump. Since this gasket wasn't included with the water pump things are on hold again. May as well get a new thermostat while I'm at it since the housing is now out of the car and completely drained of coolant.  Also I did find it kind of weird that the middle left pulley didn't have a belt on it when I was uploading this, but more in a "huh that's a dumb way to space that out" style of weird There's a suspiciously vacant spot in the engine bay that would fit an A/C compressor perfectly, which makes me wonder what the button labeled A/C inside does  And finally  
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Feb 2, 2016 06:07
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If memory serves, the thermostat housing was definitely leaking, but the water pump was gushing. Good call on replacing the t-stat.
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Feb 2, 2016 15:37
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1500quidporsche posted:There's a suspiciously vacant spot in the engine bay that would fit an A/C compressor perfectly, which makes me wonder what the button labeled A/C inside does Every FC has an A/C button regardless of whether it actually has A/C. From my experience the button is just there so people can complain about how your A/C doesn't work very well.
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Feb 2, 2016 19:22
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This is going to sound expensive- but I recommend using OEM gaskets/thermostat/radiator caps. I've seen/had too many issues with aftermarket cooling parts on these motors.
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Feb 2, 2016 19:33
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That's good to know because my initial impression was that somebody had done a meticulous job taking the condenser out and making it look like one was never there. Also I may have read some stuff about aligning the timing marks on the eccentric shaft pulley with the indicator and quickly decided that wasn't necessary since it doesn't have a distributor. But then I saw what suspiciously looked like the bottom half of a distributor and what the factory manual refers to as a crank timing sensor or something. So I'm going to need to figure my way out of that mess I created as well. It's like my first time wrenching on a car all over again 
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Feb 2, 2016 19:34
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Did you remove the CAS? While you have it apart you should clean/remark the timing on the front pulley.
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Feb 2, 2016 19:44
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No I didn't take that off, I did notice that the bottom half looked like a distributor and then a light bulb went off thinking that maybe I hosed up not aligning the pulleys with the indicator before taking them off. Is it the front pulley that's supposed to be marked? I didn't really see anything on there and assumed it was supposed to be the one closest to the engine. It really didn't seem marked either though.
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Feb 2, 2016 19:49
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Any UK head reading this thread thinking 'phwoar I want one of those' go here, buy this, it's £900... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mazda-rx7-182-sports-1986-/172079702529?hash=item2810bfe201:g:nwIAAOSwL7VWsJr5 I would but I want an FB.
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Feb 3, 2016 14:19
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Don't you loving dare. You know I'll do it. I just made space on my drive for another I let a complete (minus engine) FD go by on eBay a few months back. It sold for £1000. A 1UZ FD is on my 'dream car' list. My rule is 'no killing a good FD, must be engineless'. Damnit.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:36
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FC FC FC FC FC FC FC FC FC FC FC 
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Feb 3, 2016 21:04
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88h88 posted:Any UK head reading this thread thinking 'phwoar I want one of those' go here, buy this, it's £900... That looks fantastic.
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Feb 3, 2016 21:55
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In Ontario that would be listed at 7 times the price.
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Feb 3, 2016 21:56
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"Water pump housing to block" gasket and the rad drain plug should be here friday thanks to a dealership. Apparently Mazda Canada hasn't updated their prices despite our currency being worth nothing now which is extremely nice and I'm certainly not going to start harassing the poo poo out of the one competent dealership parts guy I've been able to find in this city to look up as many parts as possible for me. Also a little bit of research shows being able to rebuild the shocks is going to come down to whether or not the seals/O-rings for them can still be ordered. Still a ways down the road but I'm starting to look at aftermarket stuff now since that is looking extremely likely. 88h88 posted:I would but I want an FB. The FB is in an exclusive club with the Corolla E30 coupes of cars I don't even bother searching for because I know I'm never going to find a decent example on the cheap and even if I do its going to be difficult as hell to keep up/get to a workable state. I've been down that road with the SVX and learned my lesson. The FC ticked all the right boxes for me: sold reasonably well so its not impossible to get used crap, solid aftermarket support, and tons of documentation. edit: Anybody have any idea if sunvisors from an FC are interchangeable with other Mazdas? and if so what years/models should I be looking for? 
Tony quidprano fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 02:40
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Which dealer? The only parts desk that seems to give a poo poo in my experience is Sunridge. That grommet for the sun visor looks a lot like the one from my NA. Find a tall guy with an NA Miata because they probably removed theirs. Barring that I know a few guys in town who collect Miata parts like 14 collects fungus. They won't match, but black is slimming. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 04:22
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Kramer. I phoned up Sunridge and the guy told me that I definitely have an aftermarket rad because the OE radiator had a petcock and told me to go to Calgary Fasteners despite me stating that I had a plastic one and staring at the parts diagram for my year. To be fair to the Sunridge guy though it sounded like he just pulled a tech aside and asked what old mazdas used, the advantage of the Kramer guy was that it was fairly obvious that we were staring at the same parts diagram so I could just shoot him parts numbers to check for availability and then when I got there just pointed at the part in the picture to confirm. I may just make a trip to pick-n-pull with a caliper to see what would roughly fit for the sunvisors, as long as I get a pair and the color roughly matches I'll be happy, I'm thinking lot of ford econoshitboxes may work as well. The air vents are probably going to go black though, the door ones are the only ones I can't get online and the rest are avaliable only in black. edit: also would somebody be able to weigh in on whether a oil metering pump rebuild kit is worth it? mine is looking a little crusty and I've seen one online that is about $20. Tony quidprano fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 05:00
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You want a omp rebuild and a sohn adapter. Maybe some aftermarket omp lines since the stock ones are probably nice and brittle by now.
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Feb 4, 2016 05:25
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Look into vinyl dye for the vents, you can get spray dye (not paint!) In dozens of colours, you m might be able to get something close to a match.
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Feb 4, 2016 07:21
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I used to own an 87 gxl no sunroof in that exact color scheme and miss it often. I got rid of it because I was 21 and getting way too many tickets for driving like an rear end in it. I just wish that at the time I could have appreciated the sublime pleasantness of the maroon interior. The place I bought it even through in a matching 2+2 seat.
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Feb 4, 2016 08:33
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The gasket and rad drain plug came in today so all the cooling and belt driven stuff got put back together along with changing the oil. Was 9:30 by the time I got her started up so I didn't have her running more than a few minutes because I wanted to get home. The positives are that the low coolant buzzer didn't come on at all and steam didn't start pouring out after a minute of running. The downside is the system didn't seem to pressurize that well/fast and the overflow reservoir was overflowing with a bounty of coolant so large it could only have come from three different owners dumping hundreds of dollars of coolant into a clearly leaking system over the space of eight months. At this point I'm not really 100% convinced I'm past the coolant issues but who knows, I'll probably swing by there tomorrow, turkey baster out some of that overflow coolant. There is also a tiny rear hose at the back of the housing that has a clamp I'm not too happy with and will need to keep an eye on. I'm slightly falling in love with this car though  it starts up effortlessly and cleanly, despite being a tired old beat up engine, its a real satisfying experience considering even my SVX would occasionally huff and wheeze on startup. Also the tape deck works.
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Feb 7, 2016 07:01
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Flushed the brake system today, which had a comical amount of air in it and at one point the fluid looked a little bit like phlegm coming out then dissolved into the rest of the fluid. I want to say there is a leak in the system somewhere but given how badly this thing has been neglected it is possible the brake fluid has just boiled away over the years. Only time will tell since I'm too lazy to be chasing down leaks in the brake system and there was no visual evidence of it leaking when we did the flush. Rear struts are completely blown, both sides were just soaked in oil. Going to look up how to test the actuators for the AAS. If even one isn't working I'm going to conventional struts and springs. Rebuilding these might be out of the question too since it looks like the seals are completely blown and it might have sucked some poo poo into the strut itself and damaged the chamber.  Most the bushings look a little long in the tooth. But the swaybar bushings look very very crispy, going to make replacing these a high priority item.  The big win today is I've now got this baby driveable over short distances. I stress short distances because the rad cap isn't sealing and instead of pressurizing the system is just puking fluid into the overflow tank, I'm pretty sure its the black plastic housing the rad cap sits on has been buggered since somebody dumped some of that quick leak fix poo poo in there so the surface isn't sealing with the rad cap properly. Probably going to hit up the junkyard tomorrow to see if any other mazdas use the same housing. 
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Feb 14, 2016 02:43
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Aww gently caress yeah, glad to see that. Good going.
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Feb 14, 2016 08:19
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Yeah I'm not surprised there was a lot of air in those brakes. With the amount that was gone I'm honestly surprised nobody just left a bleeder open and drove it like normal for a week. Soft lines looked ok? They might be worth replacing just to be on the safe side, said a guy who has never done that before.
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Feb 14, 2016 16:56
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Definitely replace the soft lines. Stainless braided lines used to be $100 for all four corners before our dollar tanked. Now I'm a little more hesitant to recommend them if you're on a budget. Rockauto to the rescue? Petersen lighting has LED sealed beam replacements out now as well. Safety items are justifiable upgrades right?
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Feb 14, 2016 22:15
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