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I debate those Peterson lights every time I'm on RockAuto. Would be so great in the Miata.
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Feb 15, 2016 03:59
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Soft lines look pretty drat good on all four sides, no cracks or anything, my bet would be on the CV boots to give out way before them as they currently resemble some sort of textured afrikakorps camo, they aren't any cracks there right now but I'm going to be keeping a close eye on them once I start driving this thing. The 1500q school of running an older car you bought for insanely cheap is to run absolutely everything possible to end of life then replace it with top shelf stuff as you work your way through the car, its a risky strategy but its paid dividends with the Scirocco so I'm going to go that route again. Which brings us to the swaybar link bushings, its fairly obvious that those things are going to turn to dust if I try to take the rear hubs off to work on those passive rear steering bushings. Mazdatrix has a $150USD "RX-7 Full Front & Rear Urethane Kit" which I'm probably going to pull the trigger on. At this point its looking like I might be doing the whole rear suspension stuff in one go so I may as well buy in bulk and slap in new stuff as it gets taken apart since quality bushings always made the biggest difference to driving feel in my opinion. I checked the actuators for the active suspension today, 3 out of 4 work with the passenger rear being non responsive. Normally this would have me looking at aftermarket options but my dad is now thoroughly impressed that the car had full electronic suspension on front and rear and that I want to keep it in there. So he's now said he'd figure out how to fix it (This probably means he's going to take the actuator into his work and find somebody to rebuild it and then I'll buy them a case of beer). I've found a few places selling the rear struts for the AAS cars online and there seems to be some indication that they're still some stock in the Mazda dealer network so I'm going to make a call to the dealer there. Would actually be pretty awesome if I could keep this system in there. edit: sealed beam conversion may be a thing I'd invest in. Of the 3 cars I have though (all with sealed beams), this one is the least likely to be driven after dark on an unlit road. I also may have invested in comically large Hella auxiliary lights for the Scirocco, so the Safari may get some love here. second much more important auto adjusting suspension related edit: 
Tony quidprano fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Feb 15, 2016 |
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Feb 15, 2016 04:15
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Here's a puzzle for everyone. The rad cap housing and rad cap have both been changed now but she still likes to puke out coolant into the overflow tank. Specifically it seems like when you rev high the add coolant buzzer comes on shortly after, I took her for a 15 kilometer drive and it was only when I decided to rev up to 6k on my parent's street on the way back that it occurred. so for whatever reason the system is over-pressurizing by a shitload. My suspicion is that since a bunch of that leak-stop poo poo appears to have been dumped in is that the rad is plugged up. This would at least partially be supported by the fact that I haven't had to add any coolant since the initial change, it's occurring at high revs and the original water pump's bearing was on its way out. But knowing jack poo poo about rotary engines I think its worth getting a second opinion.
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Feb 21, 2016 02:57
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How well did you bleed the system after replacing the water pump? Is there any stop leak sediment appearing in the bottom of the overflow jug? I assume you can't hot-tank a plastic-ended radiator.
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Feb 21, 2016 03:08
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Did a fairly thorough bleeding of the system. Didn't get that close of a look at the sediment in the overflow tank, the bottom is a little bit obscured but there's a little bit of that crap in there for sure, I do think somebody dumped a ton in there since that's what killed the old rad cap housing's ability to seal with the rad cap. Probably going to call up a rad shop to see what my options are. The plastic end tanks are held in with a bunch of folded tabs that at least appear like someone could peel them back and pop the end tanks out.
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Feb 21, 2016 03:54
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Your best option is probably going to be a new radiator if that is the case. Very few shops would be willing to remove plastic ends on a 30 year old radiator. Plastic that has been heat cycled that many times is going to be very brittle and may have started to break down already.
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Feb 21, 2016 20:53
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Not to mention that getting all those tabs folded up enough to get the tank off without breaking the plastic is a fun challenge, then you've got to get them all back down evenly enough that it still seals and hope to gently caress none of them work harden and snap. Auto Value rads are usually about Rockauto price plus ~10%. Just make sure you're not dealing with a combustion leak into the coolant, which can produce similar symptoms to what you're describing, before you throw a rad at it. E: Taking that tank off before you scrap it in the spirit of failure analysis might not be a bad idea though. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Feb 21, 2016 |
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Feb 21, 2016 21:04
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Aaaaaaaaand you have a rotary, so cooling is especially important. Don't skimp here.
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Feb 21, 2016 21:43
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1500quidporsche posted:Here's a puzzle for everyone. Open the hood, remove the radiator cap on the thermostat housing. Top it off with water and have someone else start the car. Does the coolant/water bubble out the top immediately? Or does it sit there? (Don't run it for more then a few minutes, just long enough to warm the block up.)
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Feb 21, 2016 21:54
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I don't know poo poo about rotaries but that sounds like a blown headgasket in a normal motor.
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Feb 22, 2016 00:48
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BlackMK4 posted:I don't know poo poo about rotaries but that sounds like a blown headgasket in a normal motor. I'm going to guess that it's 90% likely a blown coolant seal. The stop leak is kinda a dead give away...
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Feb 22, 2016 00:52
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the spyder posted:I'm going to guess that it's 90% likely a blown coolant seal. The stop leak is kinda a dead give away... When we bought it the water pump was pissing an enormous amount of coolant. I don't think it's impossible that there's a blown seal but McTinkerson seemed pretty convinced it was just the pump. May want to see what jamal has for rads.
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Feb 22, 2016 00:53
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Another option is to use a combustion gas coolant test kit, we use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007ZDRUI
the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 01:11
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Yeah, it was impossible to tell that there was any internal coolant consumption given the state of the water pump. It's not impossible but the plugs looked way too fouled to be burning any significant amount of coolant.
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Feb 22, 2016 01:11
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Yeah the water pump housing gasket was completely hosed, I'd be shocked if the leak stop crap was dumped in there for anything else. BlackMK4 posted:I don't know poo poo about rotaries but that sounds like a blown headgasket in a normal motor. Honestly my line of thinking was that the cooling seals on the engine were blown, but I'm struggling to wrap my mind around how it isn't losing any significant amount of coolant (I haven't had to add any since doing the water pump/gaskets) and the system isn't pressurizing super fast. I did a pressure test today and the system takes its time pressurizing, normally when a head gasket goes and pumps exhaust gas into the coolant the system pressure shoots right up as soon as the engine starts running, I'm assuming the same applies for rotaries. I'm going to make some calls for rads tomorrow, I'm not ruling out the idea of the engine being hosed but it does seem like that rad is plugged up and should be done anyways, you can tell its not flowing too well when the thermostat opens.
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Feb 22, 2016 03:12
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I might have a line on a copper core rad for you. They would be out of our FC chump cars. They're not great for track duty but for DD duty, they'd be fine. I'll try and find out if they're for sale and if so how much. Edit: Pure copper rad. Metal end tanks. Less than 24 hours on it. Was $325 new, yours for $175. McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Feb 22, 2016 |
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Feb 22, 2016 03:30
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Anecdotal but my forester was running with a blown headgasket and wasn't burning any coolant. Running it would pump coolant into the overflow then it would just bubble exhaust gas through the overflow, shut it off and it would suck that coolant back in. Didn't overheat under normal conditions, had trouble once when it was sitting in traffic on a hot day but otherwise didn't give me problems. Ran like that for a few weeks before I pulled the motor and built the EJ251/25D franken motor. Seriously wouldn't be able to tell it had a blown head gasket unless you opened the hood while running and you saw the bubbling in the overflow. Hopefully it's just the rad.
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Feb 22, 2016 03:55
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McTinkerson posted:Edit: Pure copper rad. Metal end tanks. Less than 24 hours on it. Was $325 new, yours for $175. Let me make a few calls Monday just to see what's around town, but given the prices I've seen online I'll probably be going with that.
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Feb 22, 2016 05:09
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Sure sounds like cracked irons to me. My buddies FC had the same issue when he bought it. Especially if it sat for any great length of time. The blowing coolant with high revs seems to add up to me. Also the best thing you could do for the suspension is a rear-steer eliminator kit. We put in S5 suspension on my buddies that had the delrin rear steer eliminator bushings and it totally transformed the car. It's amazing how much more enjoyable and reassuring a car is to drive when only the front wheels have input on which way the car is going.
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Feb 22, 2016 07:20
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1500quidporsche posted:Let me make a few calls Monday just to see what's around town, but given the prices I've seen online I'll probably be going with that. I'm driving down to YYC tomorrow - did you want me to bring the rad down? PM for details.
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Feb 25, 2016 19:13
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What's happening with the Rx? I crave updates. Is it still at your dad's place?
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Apr 13, 2016 20:38
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Probably worth an update even though not alot has happened. Since my last post I've mostly been working on my kart and its self immolating wiring harness since the the first race of the season is coming up. I'm determined to not run it half assed anymore so I'm just sorting through all the issues of that thing now, which there are alot of. There is a bit of a conflict of opinion regarding the engine status of the RX7. I bought a rad from a "rad shop" that consisted of some guy's garage for way cheaper than anyone else was offering. It was pretty clear that the rad wasn't intended for an FC but with some gentle massaging with a grinder she fit in nicely, at which point I hopped in cranked her, waited for the thermostat to open so all the air came up, added more coolant then drove her around and she's still puking coolant into the overflow container and getting air in the system. I'm 100% convinced the engine is blown so I took it down to De Winton since I have a place to park it down there and get an engine prepared in the meantime. Now it didn't boil over on the way to De Winton, which according to my dad means the engine is perfectly fine and he now wants to actually look at it "in a month". I'm a little mad over that since I did the whole rad swap in his garage and he refused to walk outside to take a look when I said it was boiling over, and I'm apparently now wrong the one time it doesn't puke out coolant despite it being on the highway and short shifting on the way to De Winton versus purposely trying to force it to present an issue if there was one. So it's kind of stalled at this point and I've got my hands full with the kart anyways, I could post stuff from that in the mean time if there's any interest in that.
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Apr 13, 2016 21:17
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1500quidporsche posted:
gently caress yeah there is. Post away.
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Apr 13, 2016 21:20
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You're going to want to replace everything cooling related that you can because stop leak is nasty poo poo and almost impossible to get out. All the hoses, water pump, thermostat, etc. I honestly wouldn't run it with the new rad for too long either because it will get all gunked up with the remaining poo poo still in the system. I recommend using Thoro Flush, it gets a lot of it out but still not all of it, used it on my Miata and although it got a lot of the poo poo out there's still remnants so I'm replacing as much as I can. http://www.amazon.com/Irontite-Thoro-Flush-9110-16-16-oz/dp/B00JJ1FB28
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Apr 14, 2016 02:55
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Yeah I've already replaced the fluid with the new rad since the stuff that came out didn't look too great either despite me having that engine running for a little more than an hour since that stuff went in, will most likely do it again when the engine comes out. I'm pretty certain at this point that the sequence of events was: Gasket broke-> somebody dumped leak-seal poo poo in there-> coolant continued to leak and then the leak seal blocked a coolant channel in the engine-> engine overheated in that spot and the seal warped and now exhaust gas gets pushed through there. But if the old man says I'm wrong and he wants to take a look in a month then I've got to let him take a look since he's got a garage and thousands of dollars in tools I can use and generally puts up with my antics of buying terrible ruined old cars and taking up space in his garage with my poo poo for extended periods of time. However this wouldn't be the first time he's been overly optimistic about a car part being fine when its obviously completely failed before. Slung Blade posted:gently caress yeah there is. Post away. I'm terrible at taking pictures as I work along but I'll try my best. Might help to establish exactly what I'm working on. I paid $3500 for this thing a year ago, which is far far more than I've paid for any of my cars. It has a 125cc two stroke engine on it that puts out "30 horsepower" that has caused nothing but trouble. It is however a complete blast to drive. The livery needs to definitely be redone this year however I'd like to relearn the course a little bit before redoing all that.    Most of spring was just simply taking things apart and cleaning with brake cleaner and doing a teardown of the rear axle to put some new bearings back in. However this week I've been consumed with the wiring loom. The old one was recalled and when I put the new one on this weekend I got a biblical puff of smoke and a fried three inch section of wiring. basically the ignition switch (which sits in the plastic cover for the top of the batter) shorted out on the batter holder.  So tonight was the second go round with a new wiring harness. I'm almost certain the issue was that the new harness has a thicker gauge going to the battery as I had to bend the posts to clear the top plastic bit, there wasn't even enough room to run it through the top like it was before. From there when I tried to force the top on it jumped back and onto the ignition switch.  So the wiring harness is sorted and it cranks which is a positive sign. What's left on the list is fixing the right front control arm which I mangled in a shunt last year(no seriously I must've hit a curb pretty bad judging by the pictures below), changing a spring on the exhaust valve and determining whether I just need to flush the brake fluid or completely rebuild the master cylinder and caliper.  
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Apr 14, 2016 05:52
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Kart Update: This kart is going to kill me. LAst thursday was a busy night, bled the brake, dealt with a recall on the exhaust valve where they changed the whole system from being vacuum operated to positive crank pressure operated with some vacuum lines and one spring, and lined the seat with some foam so I hopefully don't break a rib again this year.  The the spring literally goes on top of this piece of plastic now instead of under it and above the green part and with that and a minor reconfiguration of vacuum lines the whole system is now pressure operated instead of vacuum. Quality Austrian engineering and my  tax dollars at work since Rotax is a division of Bombardier now. At this point aside from the spindles everything appeared to be good, so I decided on friday to take it out for a shakedown. After in and outlap I was fairly confident everything was solid so I decided it was time to really give her a go, at which point the chain came flying off after three corners. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=civSayVBnSs I suspect using the new T-handle hex keys I got to torque down the engine mounts was a dumb idea and they backed off. As I hit the brakes it probably put enough load through the chassis that with the engine lifting back the chain had enough slack to pop off. Fortunately the whole system for adjusting the chain tension is easy to access and only requires commonly available tools like a 15mm wrench.   Straightened the spindle out tonight and in general sorted out the front end (left tire wasn't clearing the side bumper on full lock). Going to take it out tomorrow and hopefully get some better luck.
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Apr 19, 2016 05:33
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drat man, lovely evening, shame about the chain though. Do you ever need/want pit crew?
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Apr 19, 2016 07:24
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I need to arrange to go karting soon... Maybe drift karting. Also buy a kart and do a Kart Vader. I assume that kart seats are mostly generic and you fit them to your own preference? I went karting once sat in just the seat and after 50 laps one side of my back regretted it as there were more rights than lefts. Time after that I had an insert which wedged me right in and all was fine.
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Apr 19, 2016 08:27
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Seats can be ordered in different sizes and all sorts of configurations. Being in there snug so you don't rattle around is the biggest thing that prevents feeling beat up. There is a nice rib protection seat I might end up getting if the foam doesn't work but in general I'm skeptical that something like a carbon fibre seat will provide any benefit. Slung Blade posted:drat man, lovely evening, shame about the chain though. Absolutely man, any of the ABAI crew are welcome. There's a race this Sunday and the one after that is May 15th, let me know if you need directions.
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Apr 19, 2016 16:00
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1500quidporsche posted:Absolutely man, any of the ABAI crew are welcome. There's a race this Sunday and the one after that is May 15th, let me know if you need directions. May 15 you say? TM2TW shakedown run? I think so.
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Apr 19, 2016 16:39
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McTinkerson posted:May 15 you say? TM2TW shakedown run? I think so. Yeah I think I can make that too. Sounds like a plan to me!
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Apr 19, 2016 17:26
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May 15th it is then. Sadly I don't think I'll have the British Leyland livery rolled out by then.
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Apr 19, 2016 19:37
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1500quidporsche posted:May 15th it is then. Sadly I don't think I'll have the British Leyland livery rolled out by then. That's a little too on the nose.
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Apr 20, 2016 04:57
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Slung Blade posted:That's a little too on the nose. Uhhh.... Its kind of a little too late to change course.  Also race this weekend looks questionable. I just bought some rain tires, now I need to find some cheap rims since the size is different. 
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Apr 21, 2016 02:12
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So I may have missed the first race on account of it being the 500th anniversary of some German Purity Law on Saturday and I may have celebrated that a little too hard. Feeling stupid for doing that I ended up going out both tuesday and thursday this week, I hear it was absolutely miserable on sunday though so I don't feel too bad in retrospect. Last week was fairly miserable with the bolts holding the axle to the chassis backing off after 11 laps on tuesday, including the one bolting down the seat support. This caused a bit of a mass panic that led to me double checking every single bolt on the kart. I got some slightly longer bolts and used some lock washers now so hopefully that solves the issue because the next step is going to be liberally applying red loctite.  Either way last tuesday was the last of the reliability issues. Overall things are progressing fairly nicely compared to last year where I had no clue what I was doing and poo poo was breaking left and right, now I'm just keeping on top of the maintenance and keeping my head down. I went out on tuesday and tonight, the track is completely dead compared to last year so I was able to keep my head down and just pound out some laps to get some of the rust off. Video from tuesday: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUa7WHJUK00 Transmitting 28 horsepower to the rear axle, lol  Pretty sure either the fuel pump or carb is leaking a little bit  Like any good racing team I work closely with my tire supplier, here I am visiting their facilities to see what they have.  I also may have made an yet another incredibly dumb and irrational purchase as well  
Tony quidprano fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Apr 29, 2016 |
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Apr 29, 2016 05:38
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Man I didn't know they made little swampers/treaded/lugged tires for karts, that's awesome.
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Apr 29, 2016 15:10
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I'm guessing they're for dirt ovals?
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Apr 29, 2016 15:12
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Due to the high frame rate of whatever you're using to record, the video looks sped up. You could add a Yaketty Sax soundtrack and it'd match up.
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Apr 29, 2016 20:00
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My gopro is ridiculously messed up, I think I need a new SD card or something. It was having some sound sync issues a few weeks ago that caused me to switch to 60fps to try and fix it. The video looks okay to me but I usually run it through windows movie maker to compress it before uploading to youtube and I didn't this time so maybe that garbled it up.Slung Blade posted:Man I didn't know they made little swampers/treaded/lugged tires for karts, that's awesome. They're officially "wet" tires although given how soft the the rubber is they may as well be called monsoon tires. You can get studded tires but I'm trying to figure out where the hell I could run in winter without a whole horde of NIMBYs coming out with pitchforks because I won't "think of the children" while whipping around redlining a two stroke.
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Apr 30, 2016 00:18
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Isn't the kart track in town open during the winter?
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Apr 30, 2016 19:17
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