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Looking to take my business on the road in a 6000lb fifth wheel. Is there a standard or recommended truck for this sort of thing for around 5K-10K? (Truck alone.) Plan on traveling across the US for 1-2 years max. I plan on posting up in one city then disconnecting to get supplies and sell my product at markets within a 4 hour radius of the base camp. Currently I'm looking at a 95 Ford Diesel Powerstroke 7.3 with 150k miles for about 6K. Am I'm on the right track? Should I consider gas instead? I'm planning this in advanced so everything is still in the early stages. I'm all ears for advice and suggestions.
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Jan 29, 2016 06:55
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I come with nothing but anecdotal knowledge. Anecdote #1: The 7.3 is supposed to be a great engine, the last before things turned to poo poo for a while with Ford's diesels. Anecdate #2: Diesels are much more expensive to repair. That's about the extent of my diesel knowledge. If you're considering gas, a Chevy 2500HD with the 6.0 might be a good choice, extremely durable engine. As I've heard here on AI it's a "million mile motor in a 250,000 mile body".
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Jan 29, 2016 15:58
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dreesemonkey posted:I come with nothing but anecdotal knowledge. Thanks bud. Can anyone else expand on just how much more it is the fix diesels? This would be a concern for us on the road. Is it like twice as much? I see a few decent 2500HDs in my area. At what point does diesel become more economical than gas? We will only be tripping for 1-2 years with a possible 15K miles on the rig. I had some plans to go bio diesel as well, so thats a plus.
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Jan 29, 2016 17:08
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philkop posted:Thanks bud. There was a guy with a thread on here when he owned/ran a mechanics shop. A lot of people chimed in with how hard it is to find a good diesel mechanic and how expensive they are. Twice the cost (labor, parts) is probably about right. If you're only doing 15k miles I think and argument could be made that there are a lot more potential "super expensive repairs" that could happen on a diesel than a gas truck, but again it's just guessing. If you were getting one to drive 150k and assuming the diesel and gas were both mechanically good, you may want the extra torque and durability of a good diesel, but you can probably get a good, cheap 15k miles out of a decent shape 6.0 chevy. There is a guy on youtube who buys junkyard 200k+ mile chevy 6.0 V8s and puts a huge turbo on them and beats the poo poo out of them at ~600hp. They're a pretty incredible engine.
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Jan 29, 2016 18:04
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dreesemonkey posted:There was a guy with a thread on here when he owned/ran a mechanics shop. A lot of people chimed in with how hard it is to find a good diesel mechanic and how expensive they are. Twice the cost (labor, parts) is probably about right. Yeah that's what I'm thinking now. My trip is relatively short compared to full timers and people who haul work gear 24/7. I could always upgrade along the way if things are going exceedingly well. We'd probably opt for a larger camper than the 20 foot we plan on using if we decide to go longer anyways. I wish it was easier for find these 2500s in manual
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Jan 29, 2016 18:15
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Just get an auto for towing, do you really want to deal with slipping the clutch to get out of a muddy campsite with 6k on the back? I don't have an overall recommendation, but some things to consider. You'll be on the road, so you'll likely be paying a shop for all repairs. Diesel repairs are not cheap. This has been brought up a few times now. (15L oil changes for example) Not sure where you'll be, but if you are in the frozen north during winter you may need to take some extra steps with a diesel. Older diesels likely fare worse here than something more modern. I can notice a difference from summer to winter on my 6.0L F250 here in the mild NC winters. I'm guessing a 6k lb camper will be similar to a 6k lb enclosed car hauler. Expect single digit gas mileage out of a gas truck. When looking at the tow ratings for gas trucks make sure you also make sure you look at the frontal area maxes. That said, at highway speed you'll never regret having a diesel, towing gas vs diesel is night and day with a heavy trailer. Especially if you have to do anything with elevation changes. I used to have a 4.6L F150 to tow a ~4k trailer. I had to pay constant attention to it to keep the truck from unlocking the torque converter at the slightest incline.
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Jan 30, 2016 03:24
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A 6L Chevy or GMC would do you well. The engine is very strong, although it gets poo poo mileage in the 2500HD due to the requisite 4.10 gears. I had one, and got 12mpg highway. That said, it was cheap to buy, cheap to run, and relatively easy to work on. You could find a good one for 10K. I towed between 5000 and 12000 pounds with mine, it handled it really well. Diesels are expensive to run, expensive to buy, and awesome when they run. Sadly, the 7.3L's command a premium because they're very durable and last forever. The pre emissions Duramax trucks also command a premium. Cummins trucks command a premium for some ungodly reason. Basically, the only deals to be had on diesels are on the poo poo Ford engines that need a ton of work to be reliable. Those old Ford 7.3s are really slow and noisy. If the body is clean, and you don't mind the speed, then why not? If I were in your position, I'd look for a '07-ish 2500HD with a 6.0. I sold my '04 with 172k on it for $5500 last year. My '15 2500HD Duramax is amazing, but good God was it expensive. Then again, 18mpg highway, and 14-15 mpg when towing 5500#. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 03:42
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sharkytm posted:I sold my '04 with 172k on it for $5500 last year. I'm looking for one, having a hard time finding one that isn't jacked up, needs maintenance, with non 10 ply m/t tires, and a cb whip not hooked to anything, - price, 10k ish.
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Jan 30, 2016 05:59
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angryrobots posted:Good god, was it a 2wd single cab and beat to poo poo? 4WD, Z85, extended cab, WT trim. It all depends on location. It had some rust, but nothing horrible. New brakes, brake lines, and front suspension too.
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Jan 30, 2016 15:56
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If you can't work on one, psd things can get up there fast, esp if you manage to cook the thing. That said keep the filters, fluids, and glow plugs fresh. Two gens of psd, the latter having more emissions equipment, power, and regarded as a better engine all around. But you'll pay for it. IDIs are slow and cranky in the cold but itll get you there. 93 optionally came with a bunch of revisions and were turbocharged. Automatic? Hahah gently caress that. 30 year old tow truck trans would leave me scared that it would take a poo poo in the middle of buttfuckistan. That said the 6.0 gas 2500 would do you well. I found a 8.1 2004 2500 locally and am very tempted to grab it.
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Jan 30, 2016 16:49
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I am a big Duramax fan but as mentioned they command a good premium and IIRC the early/mid 00s commonly suffered injector issues which is an expensive repair if not already done. I think the gas 6.0 Chev/GM is a reasonable engine but fuel economy sucks. I'm not sure how much of a difference there would be in economy between it and the big 8.1, or even the Ford V10 for towing purposes. I know a guy with the Ford V10 and I am pretty sure he said it didn't matter whether he was towing his RV or not, he always got around the same fuel economy. e: Might have a tough time getting the big engines in a good truck for $5K. Sorry, forgot about budget. slidebite fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 17:59
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slidebite posted:I am a big Duramax fan but as mentioned they command a good premium and IIRC the early/mid 00s commonly suffered injector issues which is an expensive repair if not already done. 10K max. I may trade my current 2007 Mustang for one. Haven't decided. It's in great shape with low miles,. so it would be nice to come home to afterwards. Back when I was considering diesel, this was high on my list http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5401493273.html My biggest concern with diesel is having to get pricey repairs on the road, which looks like a real possibility with anything in my range. Then again, we plan on making money on this trip and keeping a low overhead. I'll have to talk to my tax guy, but gas and repairs will pretty much be a business expense.
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Jan 30, 2016 18:33
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cursedshitbox posted:That said the 6.0 gas 2500 would do you well. I found a 8.1 2004 2500 locally and am very tempted to grab it.
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Jan 30, 2016 19:43
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angryrobots posted:8.1/Allison is what I'd like, but they are hard to come by, and I haven't seen one listed within 200 miles that was under 14k asking price http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/5401629403.html Its Far from you, but it seems absurdly cheap
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Jan 30, 2016 19:52
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philkop posted:Thanks bud. There are two sides to the coin. On one hand, parts are more expensive. Injectors are somewhat of a wear item, and can be quickly destroyed by bad fuel, running out of fuel, or in a 7.3/6.0/6.4 missing oil change intervals. for the 7.3 they're about $1000 a set, but that said if they do go you can put 160% injectors in and gain 50-100hp. The turbo can go which is another $1000-$2000, but again instead of a factory replacement, the same money improves the vehicle. There are improved aftermarket options for almost every weak point. In 15,000 miles pulling a trailer, a 7.3 would probably do 12-14mpg, a chevy 6.0 or 8.1 could barely do that empty, and with a travel trailer on they would probably be around 7-8mpg. That's 1153 gallons of diesel or about $2306, or 1875 gallons of gas or about $3750. Unless something fails catastrophically, there really shouldn't be $1400 in repairs within 15,000 miles, but that potential is always there. I've put about 5000 miles on a 120k mile 7.3 i bought at auction as a non-runner for $750 without doing any engine work outside of an oil change. It'll start at -30*c without a block heater and do 21mpg highway where my old 5.4 f-150 couldn't do 15mpg. Ford 6.4s will be out of your price range, avoid 6.0s like the plague.The 7.3s are pretty great. You can usually hear low compression on cylinders when you're cold starting it, and see it as uneven puffs of blowby by pulling the oil cap off. a bad turbo or stuck injectors would be evident on a test drive. Be aware though that most code readers won't work on a 7.3 It will be tough to find a decent cummins in your price range, but the 98.5+ you can cycle the key three times and leave it in the on position and it will start throwing all the codes at you. a 12 valve make sure the killer dowel pin has been dealt with, high mileage 24 valves, make sure the VP44 injector pump has been replaced and the front suspension has been serviced there won't be a duramax within your price range that doesn't need injectors. There are reman sets for about $1000 these days, but it's still a pain to do. looking on craigslist in orlando where you first linked, and the only 99+ 7.3s seem to be over 10 grand and over 300,000 miles which sucks. If you have the cash in hand and some time to work out the bugs with your own labor before you hit the road, an auction could be a good choice, even if a bit of a gamble. This went for $6k and would be pretty awesome. https://www.rbauction.com/1999-FORD-F350-Crew-Cab?invId=4101332&id=ar&auction=ORLANDO-FL-2014119
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Jan 30, 2016 20:53
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If you're willing to take a trip look at Dallas Craigslist. I almost flew down there and drove back when I bought my F250. Trucks are stupid cheap there.
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Jan 30, 2016 21:01
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cursedshitbox posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/5401629403.html
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Jan 31, 2016 01:45
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FatCow posted:If you're willing to take a trip look at Dallas Craigslist. I almost flew down there and drove back when I bought my F250. Trucks are stupid cheap there. My grandma actually lives somewhere in Texas and has been wanting me to come stay for a week or two. This is definitely something for me to think about. I bet campers can be had cheap there as well.
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Jan 31, 2016 03:10
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angryrobots posted:8.1/Allison is what I'd like, but they are hard to come by, and I haven't seen one listed within 200 miles that was under 14k asking price Haha, the 8.1 is a loving gas hog all the time. I looked at one, but the seller said he got "double digit fuel mileage on the highway if he was careful". 9-10 mpg highway unloaded is laughable. Then again, he had 4.10's as well. With 3.73s, I think it got about 12, same as the 6.0. It tows a lot more nicely, and the mileage doesn't drop like the 6.0 under load.
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Jan 31, 2016 18:36
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Fuel consumption (especially unloaded) is no big concern to me. It's only for occasional heavy hauling, with seating for at least 4.
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Jan 31, 2016 20:28
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My company work truck has the Chevy 6.0 gasser. It gets 9 mpg around town empty, maybe 12mpg highway with a good tail wind. Many other non-drivetrain issues, mostly electrical and HVAC-related, way too many for a 10-yr old truck with 180K miles. MY personal vehicle is a 94 F250 with the turboed 7.3 IDI. 17 mpg city, 19 highway, 198Kmiles. So much more comfortable and easier to repair. Of course, I have to do the repairs myself! Luckily, the internet exists and there are some excellent sites where insane IDIots (like me) can help. The old Ford IDIs need more love. It is a real tragedy that most shops have lost the proper tools and expertise to repair them (notably, injection pump timing meters and septagenerian mechanics) They are insanely simple and reliable, and with a turbo they can be pretty fun. The IDIs will burn biodiesel/waste motor oil like no one's business due to the lower injection pressures (around 2000psi) also. Most problems people have with them are cold start-related and there are well-documented ways to fix them. They are old-school workhorses that have soul and were designed by a farm implement company in an era when bushes and sports cars were still huge. I've owned 3 ('84, '90, '94) and would purchase another if I had room in the driveway.
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Jan 31, 2016 21:20
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digger_smolkin posted:My company work truck has the Chevy 6.0 gasser. It gets 9 mpg around town empty, maybe 12mpg highway with a good tail wind. Many other non-drivetrain issues, mostly electrical and HVAC-related, way too many for a 10-yr old truck with 180K miles. This is pretty much why I am after a IDI. But holy poo poo the prices have creeped up on em. Can you even get the proper tools for em anymore?
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Jan 31, 2016 22:31
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cursedshitbox posted:This is pretty much why I am after a IDI. But holy poo poo the prices have creeped up on em. Can you even get the proper tools for em anymore? They come up on ebay once in a whlie, usually in broken or abused condition. Oilburners, FTE and similar sites with marketplaces are indispensable. For example, the fuel injection pump is mechanical so timing is especially important; a lot of people who hated IDIs probably drove a "timed-by-ear" truck which admittedly will be disappointing compared to say, a contemporary stock 460 gasser (or even 300 I-6.) You need a meter or timing adapter to do it right, and Oilburners in particular has members who will go out of their way to help you get one.
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Jan 31, 2016 23:26
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What about a chevy express van? You can get one with a 6.0 and they always seems to be cheaper than the trucks of similar age/mileage. You said it was for a business so maybe a van would be more useful than a truck anyway? e: like this one for example http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-E...%3D291671351498 Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 02:00
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Sex Weirdo posted:What about a chevy express van? You can get one with a 6.0 and they always seems to be cheaper than the trucks of similar age/mileage. You said it was for a business so maybe a van would be more useful than a truck anyway? philkop posted:Looking to take my business on the road in a 6000lb fifth wheel.
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Feb 1, 2016 02:17
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ah hell I missed that part, nevermind me then 
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Feb 1, 2016 02:23
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slidebite posted:Vans are notoriously awkward to hook up to a fifth wheel hitch. Totally would if it was just me, and I had a base camp I was living at. But its me and my girlfriend, and we need to live and work out of unit for about a year. Everybody is talking about these chevys, but how about a Ford F250 or 350 Super Duty? I know nothing about them, but I seen tons of them on the road. Would something like that be comparable to the 2500HD, or is the Chevy inherently better for these things?
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Feb 1, 2016 02:23
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I can't speak for the v10, but the Ford 5.4 with the 4 speed auto is a turd. I use my dad's E350 to tow a race car on a flatbed trailer, probably about 4500lbs. It does alright but I wouldn't want to pull much more. A good 6 speed auto or a stick shift might improve it a bit but it's just not a great motor.
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Feb 1, 2016 02:56
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V10s hate sparkplugs and rod bearings. In short; no. When they do run, you gotta wind the gently caress outta them too.
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Feb 1, 2016 03:26
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Unless you go diesel/V10 the tow rating for the F250 is about the same as a F150 with the same motor. Live dangerously, get a 6.0L F250.
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Feb 1, 2016 04:25
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"It's been bulletproofed, I swear!" Also, the suggestion to look at the Dallas Craigslist, has me trying to figure out the logistics of flying there and driving this back. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 05:28
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angryrobots posted:"It's been bulletproofed, I swear!" Whoa, that is nice.
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Feb 1, 2016 17:20
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I've got too much going on, if you're interested go for it.
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Feb 1, 2016 22:14
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angryrobots posted:I've got too much going on, if you're interested go for it. Hell if it's still around fo angryrobots posted:I've got too much going on, if you're interested go for it. Out of my budget and too soon for us to move in anything. Just wanted to do some early research so I could say least know what I'm looking for. I have a 2007 Ford mustang with 73K miles on it that I'm looking to trade or sell towards the truck. Seeing it I get any good local offers.
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Feb 1, 2016 22:37
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Got an offer for an 03 Dodge 2500 Cummins 5.9 24v with about 160k miles http://m.cumminshub.com/24v.html Body looks clean. Looks like a family truck, no heavy work. I just don't know Jack poo poo about the year, model, and engine. But I'd get this as a trade which allows me a little extra wiggle room on money for repairs/setup. E: The guy drives the truck an hour a day to work and is tired of hearing the diesel. The thing looks pretty clean. I'd love some advice on the model philkop fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 01:42
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The 5.9 is great, and that's really low mileage for one. The VP44 injector pump is the weak spot of the engine, the transmission is the weak spot of the truck, and at that mileage you'd have to replace quite a bit of the front suspension. When you're checking it out, you can cycle the key from off to on 3 times ending in the on position and get all the codes.
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Feb 4, 2016 02:04
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'03 was the first year of the CR injection system. The CP3 fuel pumps can be bitchy, but they're better than the new ones. It's minimally emissions-dickered, so they normally command a premium. I'd go see how it starts in the cold, and get a compression test done. If it's the automatic, check to see if it's been maintained. The 47RE autobox was barely adequate behind the Cummins, and they like to blow up around 150K, even without abuse. You might just budget a new tranny right off the bat if you need it to be reliable towing a heavy load cross-country. It's possible that you've got the upgraded 48RE, check the VIN number. If the 8th digit of the VIN is a "6", it's got the 47RE. IIRC, the '03s came with the 48RE pump regardless of the transmission. I'd consider a larger transmission cooler and a good temp gauge mandatory for what you are planning on doing, no matter the engine, but certainly with the 47/48RE Transmissions. ::edit:: I forgot to mention, but if the truck has been modded at ALL, expect to be replacing the tranny soon. Neither the 47 or 48 could handle much above stock levels of power, so any chip or tune would usually fry them in short order. If the trans has never been serviced (fluid changed, etc), then I'd expect to replace it soon as well. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 02:07
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sharkytm posted:'03 was the first year of the CR injection system. The CP3 fuel pumps can be bitchy, but they're better than the new ones. It's minimally emissions-dickered, so they normally command a premium. I'd go see how it starts in the cold, and get a compression test done. If it's the automatic, check to see if it's been maintained. The 47RE autobox was barely adequate behind the Cummins, and they like to blow up around 150K, even without abuse. You might just budget a new tranny right off the bat if you need it to be reliable towing a heavy load cross-country. It does have the 6 as the 8th! Honestly. This seems like a younger guy who's parents bought him a truck. He goes to college near me. I might have found my truck. Thanks for the advice.
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Feb 4, 2016 02:16
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Powershift posted:When you're checking it out, you can cycle the key from off to on 3 times ending in the on position and get all the codes. Like flashing codes? Is this some kind of engine check? The truck already has a fifth wheel hitch and something called a cortex program.
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Feb 4, 2016 02:18
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philkop posted:It does have the 6 as the 8th! philkop posted:Like flashing codes? Is this some kind of engine check? Three strikes: Younger guy in college, strike 1. Parents bought the truck, strike 2. 5th Wheel, means it's been used to haul heavy poo poo, strike 3.  BONUS STRIKE:  CORTEX: http://www.xtremediesel.com/superchips3950cortexprogrammer.aspxFollow that link: code:::EDIT:: That said, if you want to put a built transmission in it, it would probably be a good truck, so long as it's been maintained. Check for oil changes, brake work, suspension work, etc. Get pictures of the engine bay and interior and look for ANY modifications. Aftermarket air filter, exhaust, etc... all red flags. Remember, you need a 100% reliable truck to tow your livelihood across the Rockies, not a weekend toy that you don't care when it breaks. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 02:22
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