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Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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WHAT'S THIS, A RALLY MINI?
still not enough left foot

Rigged Death Trap fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Mar 27, 2016

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Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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For RWDs you do it to stop oversteer spin, or to even go into more predictable oversteer on hairpins.
For FF's it's a lot less drastic than Handbrake turns, causes you to not let your rear end hang our as much coming out of the turn which means you can spend more time gaining speed than making the front wheels do double duty.
It's for lower intensity use than the handbrake turn. It's not to be used in place of it, but to complement it throughout the entirety of a run.


Also a must for Turbo cars since GOTTA KEEP SPOOLIN THAT BOOST WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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Great Joe posted:

Alpine A110?

Oh hell yes.

Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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Great Joe posted:

Early RallyX trip report:

At least with the RallyX Supercars you could shift early into second to catch up. I think this might just be a case of everyone having fully upgraded cars except me.

edit: oh, pardon the high res

Actually mainly thats because you're spinning, hard. Launch at 5-6k. Or hell launch in second gear if you have too much power.
if you notice theres a long while when you're not gaining any speed.


(good god clutch dumps at 9k :stare:)

Rigged Death Trap fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Apr 7, 2016

Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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Well poo poo. I thought the game would be a bit more sane with matchmaking.

Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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Shine posted:

It's easily worth $45, especially since the only other notable realistic rally sim is an out-of-print game from 2004. Buy DiRT Rally and buy a steering wheel and buy a Track IR and buy a bass shaker and and and and :shepspends:

At that price point might as well buy a crappy hatchback and rally it yourself.

Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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Rigged Death Trap posted:

At that price point might as well buy a crappy hatchback and rally it yourself.

To expand on my point:

Logi G27: £280
Ultra quality VR-capable computer: £900
Oculus rift: £500

That's £1680.

That gets you something like this. Nice bit of 180bhp. With £600 left for seat, harness and tires.
Whatever's left you can just use to get some better suspension from a junked car. Strip everything out and boom rally/race car.

Rigged Death Trap fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Apr 8, 2016

Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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Shine posted:

There are very obvious logistical, medical, insurance and maintenance issues to consider if you're going to drive actual cars, so it's not as simple as "buy an old hatchback and go rally."

Yeah obv but it was just a little thought.
I mean yeah the car is pushing 125k miles, you def need better brakes, a roll cage, etc. Then by the end if it's not road legal you need a trailer, you also cant go racing if you have a slipped disc or similar problems. Maintenance can quickly be a nightmare so you need either drat good wrenchin skills (possibly fab skills) and a diagnostic tool or a mechanic you trust.

But that stuffs boring to think about in a hypothetical. So I didn't.

Rigged Death Trap fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Apr 8, 2016

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Rigged Death Trap
Feb 13, 2012

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Some technicalities about the powerband and rpm:
In short, There is a a metric shitload of engine dynamics determining those two, but here are some simple definitions:
Powerband is the range of RPM where the engine is operating at full or close to full output, this usually mean within +/- 2k or 1.5k rpm of peak power for racing and sport engines. Any more and the valves supplying air to the engine can't provide enough air, any less and the engine isnt turning over fast enough to provide the power. Remember an engine is a glorified air pump.
RPM is dependent on so many things, but ultimately dependent on the amount of intake air or rather how fast the engine can get that air into the engine, and as such all race and sport engines of all kinds are modified or designed to pull in as much air as possible, either by forced induction by turbo or supercharger, or via massive intakes and valves and a sky high RPM, both approaches heighten the maximal power output but the general range isn't much changed except in the case of a very big turbo, where the forced induction aspect does not initiate until a (relatively) high rpm, after which it will skyrocket, i.e turbo lag. There isnt much use in a sky high rpm if your fuel isnt able to fully combust at that rpm.


(seems like the game doesnt simulate tire heat, just a static amount of 'tire traction'. Which I can forgive easily, since Tires are the most hard part to simulate and calculate. Reminder that the answer of the lead engineer of the porsche 918 spyder, when asked why their car scored the best times around a track, was "Tires".)

((p.s: There are multiple ways to overcome turbo lag, most notable of which is anti-lag which essentially turns your turbo into a turbine engine by combusting a purposefully fuel rich mix coming out of the exhaust in the hot turbo turbine chamber to create an ad hoc turbine, keeping your turbo spinning at incredibly high speeds at the cost of severely reducing it's lifespan. It's like a Jetplane afterburner.))

Rigged Death Trap fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Apr 11, 2016

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