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After the unfortunate demise of my Yaris last week, I found myself in need of a car. My requirements for a commuter have always been complicated, though, since they involve a good amount of time on the highway and also the ability to bomb around the dirt roads on the way to where I work in the middle of nowhere. I looked high and low for something reliable, durable, fuel efficient, but most of all fun to drive. And here is the result: (you've got something on your tooth there...) This 2012 Mazda 2 is now mine. It had 24K on it when I bought it the other day in Salt Lake, and then ended up with a few more as I drove it to Idaho and then back home to Reno. It's now been to work with me a couple of times.  This is a Sport model, so a five speed with the same 1.5 100hp unit they all get.  It breathes easier due to the Ingen CAI that came installed on the car, as well as the very nice sounding exhaust that was there when I bought it as well.   The previous owner had this thing under the dash which I think is an immobilizer or something but I don't know.  The other mod done was a short shift kit which left the shift knob a little loose, but the throws between gears are super short now and it feels solid, so I don't mind. There might be a special ECU hiding somewhere that I haven't ferreted out yet, though, which I suspect due to the very poor mileage I get - the freeway trip back to Reno I was only getting in the mid 20s, though I was doing over 90 and had a headwind. If I keep it under 70 on the highway it seems to do better, of course, but I need more time at those speeds to gather data. Also, the fuel tank is miniscule, right around 9 gallons, meaning the range isn't so good when I'm getting the crappy mileage. But I love the interior fit and finish, and I love the way it gets out of it's own way, and I love the gentle burble that exhaust makes. Mostly though I'm really happy with the suspension and steering on this car. Down twisty dirt roads or climbing up Geiger Grade into Virginia City, the car is absolutely a pleasure. Future things to do will probably include some mud flaps and maybe some extra plastic armor on the undercarriage to protect it from rocks and such. Otherwise, though, I'm a very happy man driving a very happy little car through the dirt.
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Mar 26, 2016 19:33
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 02:21 |
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It really needs a tiny tiny bull bar with tiny rally lights if you do the mudflaps. And a tiny skid plate. 
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Mar 26, 2016 19:46
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That switch thing is likely one of those accelerator pedal modifiers with multiple settings for different throttle response. Had one in my wife's juke and hated it, and the car. May want to check the pedal connector for some piggyback wires.
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Mar 27, 2016 02:13
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I have never heard of such a thing. Good idea though.
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Mar 27, 2016 03:46
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FYI, 15in miata wheels fit. I bought a set of 95 M-edition BBSes for nothing. And yeah, that FE sucks. When I was commuting up the Cajon Pass everyday, I was like 32 or better. The sweet spot for MPG is like 55-65. I do see a drop above that. It does get hilariously bad city MPG though. (like low-mid 20s). I'd loose the short shifter if you can. The OEM shifter on these things is like God's own gift to cheap car owners. Also, it needs synthetic, but you may have known that already. The good thing is it only needed unicorn juice every 7500 and I bet with UOAs it could go higher. That plate mount is pretty lol as it has a standard OEM mount under that cover. I find it makes the smile even better. Welcome to the Mazda 2 crew.
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Mar 27, 2016 07:15
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Good to know I'm not crazy with the mileage then. I put synthetic in all my cars, so that's no problem. Will be looking for some miata wheels when I get the mudflaps, I guess!
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Mar 27, 2016 18:17
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Seconding nm's comments on the cruising speed/mileage relationship - I don't see a lot of difference from my usual every day economy to highway unless I am keeping in the range he mentioned (or there is a tail wind). Though I get 7.4l/100 km in the city (~32 USmpg) as it's never really true stop and go traffic. I have a red '13 that I put the Rallyarmor universal flaps on since I end up driving on gravel around here a fair amount. I was going to post a picture but I can't find any at the moment. Older VW wheels fit as well if they are the 4x100 bolt pattern, though you'll need a spacer for the centerbore to adapt from 57.1 mm to 54.1 mm but these are cheap.
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Mar 27, 2016 18:59
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How are those little Mazdas as just a city runabout? My mother-in-law is in the market for something for the city and maybe the odd 1-2 hour short highway trip. Reasonable? Also, didn't know you were in Reno. The Mrs. and I head out there typically once-twice a year in the early summer or fall.
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Mar 27, 2016 20:49
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slidebite posted:How are those little Mazdas as just a city runabout? My mother-in-law is in the market for something for the city and maybe the odd 1-2 hour short highway trip. Reasonable? Good except that the city fe is pretty low. I'm in the low 20s generally. Also, if it is an auto, the auto is pretty ancient (and 4 speed).
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Mar 27, 2016 21:06
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So, I've really been enjoying the car. I've worked my commute for better mileage, going over Geiger Grade and Six Mile Canyon Road (through Virginia City) as my daily commute, which will work well until winter comes again, before I get to the dirt. This improves the mileage quite a lot over freeway driving, and is much more fun. Next things coming up are mudflaps and then the aluminum skid plate from Andy's since Corksport doesn't make the plastic one anymore. When tire time comes, though, I'm having a hard time finding any mud or dirt oriented tires for it. The size that's on it is 185/60R15, which is slightly more than the stock 185/55R15. I found a set of Continental VancoFourSeason light truck tires like they put on ProMasters which ought to have lots of toughness to protect me against sharp rocks, but I don't think they'll have a lot of dirt grip. Any other ideas?
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Apr 10, 2016 21:31
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It is pretty common to switch the tire out for a slightly different size. I think like 205/55/15 or something is more common and has the same diameter (a bit wider), but will fit on the stock wheels. I've kind of worn out the OEMs at this point and considering my options.
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Apr 10, 2016 21:36
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It'd be nice to get a performance tire in that size, but I don't think that will do so hot in the dirt, and all I can see is performance stuff. I'd love to get a set of general grabbers or something for it but I don't know what I can make fit.
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Apr 10, 2016 22:23
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Mr. Wiggles posted:It'd be nice to get a performance tire in that size, but I don't think that will do so hot in the dirt, and all I can see is performance stuff. I'd love to get a set of general grabbers or something for it but I don't know what I can make fit. Sawzall and dzus it back later.
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Apr 10, 2016 22:26
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So, small issue. I didn't get the key with the remote door lock button when I bought the car, so when I want to lock or unlock the car I have to put the key in the door. 1st world problems, i know. But I want it, so 3 times now I've gone to the Mazda dealer to get a new key. Three times they've screwed me. First two times it was "wait around for 2 hours only to be told they didn't have time to program my car" and yesterday it was "oh we accidentally sold the key we ordered for you to someone else.". I'm done dealing with these guys, but they're the only Mazda dealer for 200 miles. So what options do I have?
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May 2, 2016 06:34
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Mr. Wiggles posted:So, small issue. I didn't get the key with the remote door lock button when I bought the car, so when I want to lock or unlock the car I have to put the key in the door. 1st world problems, i know. But I want it, so 3 times now I've gone to the Mazda dealer to get a new key. Three times they've screwed me. First two times it was "wait around for 2 hours only to be told they didn't have time to program my car" and yesterday it was "oh we accidentally sold the key we ordered for you to someone else.". I'm done dealing with these guys, but they're the only Mazda dealer for 200 miles. So what options do I have? 400mi road trip? (Both the elk grove and roseville dealers are decent) Based on a google search, some people say there is a way to do it manually, but I don't know if it works. edit: The great thing about the fob, is that you can make the car make the loudest honk ever and scare the poo poo out of people. nm fucked around with this message at 06:40 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 06:37
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How did you manage to kill a yaris?
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May 2, 2016 18:03
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Archives posted:How did you manage to kill a yaris?  F150 to the door at 35. Then the wall of Circus Circus afterwards.
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May 2, 2016 20:48
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The only mod I'd really recommend is grabbing the RB rear sway bar. It's $200 and installs in about 30 minutes, completely transforms the car under cornering. That and tint. If you go faster than 75mph, you're just going to be taking it in the wallet. The car is super happy around 60mph, but you can squeeze 31mpg+ if you keep it under 80. The car is obnoxiously loud on the freeway, so going faster on the freeway just seems like a good way to exponentially increase the NVH. As for tires, I ran 195/50R15 Star Specs when I had mine. It was fine. I replaced the stock tires with some eco Yokohamas to chase that 37mpg dragon. I used the Mazda branded Idemitsu 0W20. Blackstone kept on telling me to go longer on the oil, so while it may cost you $55 to do an oil change, you only have to do it every 7500-9000 miles. I had the Grand Touring, and I can't really imagine buying the Sport. I would in a jam and if it was just a toy, but cruise control was definitely worth the $1500. The gas tank is 11.3 gallons if I remember correctly. Phone fucked around with this message at 22:32 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 22:28
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Isn't cruise control pretty trivial to add in this car?
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May 3, 2016 00:45
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CharlesM posted:Isn't cruise control pretty trivial to add in this car? Why would it be trivial?
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May 3, 2016 01:08
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angryhampster posted:Why would it be trivial? All you have to do is add the steering wheel buttons. It's drive-by-wire. In other Mazdas it's all ready to have cruise installed.
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May 3, 2016 01:37
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Depends on your driving, if all you did was city driving cruise is kinda pointless. But yeah, simple to add on the sport anyway. I had no clue the city mpg on 2's was that bad, good to know.
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May 3, 2016 01:39
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CharlesM posted:All you have to do is add the steering wheel buttons. It's drive-by-wire. In other Mazdas it's all ready to have cruise installed. I think you'd probably need to replace the steering wheel or hack something up. I think the base 2 has a different wheel without buttons.
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May 3, 2016 02:02
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nm posted:I think you'd probably need to replace the steering wheel or hack something up. I think the base 2 has a different wheel without buttons. Here's the post for doing it on a first-gen 3. It requires removing the airbag to install the switches, and replacing the brake switch. http://www.mazda3forums.com/352-tec...-56k-death.html
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May 3, 2016 02:50
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Eh, cruise ain't no thing anyway, since I spend most of my time in the dirt or the mountains. I've figured out a good commute route that takes me over Geiger Grade, through Virginia City, and down Six Mile Canyon Road, for anyone familiar with the area. It's fantastically fun.
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May 3, 2016 19:11
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The car is being really great to me so far. I need to get some underbody guards badly, as rocks are denting up the body and tearing apart the exhaust heat shielding. Also, I need a good way to clean the nylon sock on the CAI. But my biggest issue right now is tires. The set of cheap tires that were on the car when I bought it are getting worn out, and I need some new ones. Stock size is 185/55/15, and there's nothing in that size at all that's good. I wouldn't mind going a little higher on the sidewall, and wider wouldn't be bad either, but the most important consideration is durability in the dirt and over sharp rocks. Anybody have any ideas?
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Jul 13, 2016 00:52
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Stop signs are good for underbody protection. Also the issue you'll run into is other than gravel tires ($$$) winter tires are your best bet for that vehicle on dirt/gravel but they'll generally wear out faster than all seasons. Altimax Arctics and Winterforces are purported to last the longest. Switch to a 195/65/15 tire and you'll get more ground clearance in addition to a lot more tire variety. Just make sure they fit your wheel wells comfortably.
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Jul 13, 2016 03:14
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195s seem to be a good bet. No truck tires available in that size, though, which is a shame - I'd like to get some good ATs or something for the car. On the underbody, I was planning on making some panels out of ABS plastic for most of the car, but I'm unsure about putting that over the exhaust system. Might have to go with aluminum for that.
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Jul 13, 2016 20:24
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Mr. Wiggles posted:195s seem to be a good bet. No truck tires available in that size, though, which is a shame - I'd like to get some good ATs or something for the car Smallest AT tire I can find are the Pirellli Scorpion ATRs in 205/70/15 and Yokohama Geolandar A/T-Ss in 205/70/15. Bear in mind that's 3.3" larger in diameter than stock and may rub under hard cornering if they fit the fenders at all. They're also 13/16" wider so you may have issues with the wheels being too narrow. e: Stock Mazda2 wheels are apparently 15x6 so they should fit the 205/70R15 tire without issue but again you may run into rubbing/fitment issues because of the increased diameter. puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jul 13, 2016 |
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Jul 13, 2016 20:56
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I've had Geolandar A/T-S' on my van for about a year, and they are chunky as all getout and got me up a couple of really gnarly trails in 2wd.
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Jul 14, 2016 07:07
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Extra posted:Stop signs are good for underbody protection. There's no better skidplate known to man.
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Jul 18, 2016 01:32
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Rhyno posted:There's no better skidplate known to man. No, that would be Bus stop shelters. Ask me how I know
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Jul 18, 2016 02:22
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:No, that would be Bus stop shelters. They're made of plastic here.
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Jul 18, 2016 02:24
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Today, a water problem was encountered. I was driving the dirt road to work, when a very large and very fast and very redneck pickup came screaming the other way, in my path. I had to get out of the way quick, and I ended up in the ditch full of water on the side of the road. Water up to the running board on the left side, right side okay though. Engine shut off of course when I hit the water. After a while I was able to get pulled out and hauled onto dry land. But now she won't start. Actually she won't even crank over. The CAI under the left headlight got pretty damp, but I pulled the air intake on top of the motor (where the CAI connects) and it's bone dry, so I feel pretty good about that. And all the electrics (windows, dash, etc.) still work, which makes me feel pretty good. I'm hoping it's just my starter or starter solenoid that got wet and that's what's causing the problem. In any case I got a ride to work and I'll roll back out to the car in a few hours to see if she starts. If not, well, I guess I'll have AAA tow me the 60 miles back to Reno! The moral of the story - watch out for rednecks on muddy roads.
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Oct 17, 2016 17:53
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How do you like the car as a commuter so far? What kind of mileage are you getting?
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Oct 17, 2016 19:42
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I average about 40 with mixed city/freeway/mountain/dirt driving. It's a good commuter! Status update:. On a tow truck.
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Oct 17, 2016 22:23
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.....and she's done. Sucked water in. Seized the engine. Gonna see about anything the warranty will cover, but I'm not hopeful.
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Oct 17, 2016 23:55
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Mr. Wiggles posted:.....and she's done. Sucked water in. Seized the engine. Gonna see about anything the warranty will cover, but I'm not hopeful. God drat it 
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Oct 17, 2016 23:57
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That's a downfall of those CAI's no way I'd run one in my area with all the flooding we tend to get. That's a bummer though man, hopefully your insurance will cover it.
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Oct 17, 2016 23:58
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 02:21 |
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RIP little angel BP swap fit?
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Oct 18, 2016 00:01
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