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Deviant posted:His and by extension my point was that the prewash cycle isn't effective without detergent. Except this isn't true as evidenced by completed washes working just fine. This is the point: he's made a thesis about something he doesn't understand (prewash must be more effective) and proves himself wrong with out admitting it (full wash cycle cleans dishes even without what he thinks is an optimal pre-rinse). He lays this out as if it's some sort of conspiracy in regards to dishwash manufacturers colluding with soap manufacturers, but in the end he just doesn't understand the problem domain. One of his many issues is exactly what H110 said: if the prewash needed to be hot it would be hot, as dishwashers have temp sensors and heaters in them. A fact he details in the video, but can't put together that it negates his stupid running the hot water first thing. I don't understand the problem space either, because I'm not a dishwasher engineer. But it's pretty obvious that the bulk of them work just fine with pods and not-hot-water on the pre-rinse nearly all the time. If the dude just wanted to make a video on "hey, this is cool as poo poo - I had an old dishwasher and figured out how it works" it would have been much better. Instead he's trying to purport that he has gained some special knowledge and suggest a couple of unnecessary courses of action for everyone to take. Motronic fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Feb 24, 2021 |
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Feb 24, 2021 13:53
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I'm writing my Senators immediately!
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Feb 24, 2021 15:00
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If I have an especially dirty (greasy) dishwasher load, I add a small sprinkle of trisodium phosphate to the tub. That gives the prewash a little extra kick before the pod is released during the main wash cycle. My dishwasher does have the little recessed area for prewash detergent that just spills directly into the tub when the door is closed.
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Feb 24, 2021 15:36
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Not dishwasher related... We bought this 2007 built home last year and have been overall happy with it. We're the third owners. The last owner who only had it 2-3 years did not do any maintenance at all so I'm slowly cleaning/repairing things as I find them. I took apart our whole home humidifier and gave it a vinegar bath then scrubbed the built up crusting inside it then put in a new disperser/filter. When I went to turn it on, the small tap that feeds it leaks from the T section and from the end screw. It is directly feeding off the water main that feeds into the hot water heater as seen here.   My plan was just to shut off the water main above the cold water line feeding it, try to take apart this little spigot and replace it with a new one. I've done lots of electrical/mechanical stuff before but haven't done much plumbing. Anything I should be aware of? Are these little taps notoriously difficult or prone to leakage? I don't want to shut off the water only to find out after I remove it that I can't get it back on with a good seal. It would leave me with no water in the house until a plumber comes to fix it.
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Feb 24, 2021 16:08
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Okay, so that's a saddle valve. They all end up leaking at some point, usually flooding your basement. You need to go get an appropriate valve that you can solder in on a T. Just cut the cold pipe there, removing the section that was pierced by the saddle valve, solder in a T and install your 1/4" or whatever size you need quarter turn valve as a replacement. Do the same with the saddle valve that's probably hanging around somewhere else for your ice maker.
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Feb 24, 2021 16:13
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Motronic posted:Do the same with the saddle valve that's probably hanging around somewhere else for your ice maker. Thanks a ton!
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Feb 24, 2021 16:25
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Opioid posted:Ah... likely the case and going to be a challenge. I can solder electronics but I've never done pipes. They also didn't install any access or shutoffs in the 2nd floor laundry room (washer disaster in the making) so I may just get someone in to do all these jobs at once. It's easy enough my husband could do it, and if you can solder electronics you can definitely do pipes. Same principles, you're just working with a (small) open flame. Clean, apply flux, and heat the opposite side of the pipe to where you're putting the solder on so the joint draws the solder in. Just get a short length of copper and a couple tee fittings to practice on so you're comfortable.
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Feb 24, 2021 16:56
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Man I was washing my hands in my kids sink (also the "guest" sink) and I noticed the drain stopper was coated in a black sludge. (on the internal part). Upon some inspections it was WAY more coated than it should be (just from normal use). I removed the drain stopper... pulled it out... looked into the drain and I'm fairly sure the PO never ever ever cleaned it. Ever. It was full of this sludge that... wasn't just hair. It was like hair and then old pudding and a whole bag of lawn clippings mixed in. I've cleaned some nasty 8 foot long hair plugs before that will gag you out, but I have never seen anything like this. I was stunned into inaction for a minute. Anyway, gave it a good deep clean. It was just so goddamned disgusting. Drain wasn't backing up or clogging or anything. Welp that's my gross story. I tried to take pics but my flash would never get down into the drain for some reason.
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Feb 24, 2021 17:38
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BonoMan posted:I removed the drain stopper... pulled it out... looked into the drain and I'm fairly sure the PO never ever ever cleaned it. Ever. It was full of this sludge that... wasn't just hair. It was like hair and then old pudding and a whole bag of lawn clippings mixed in.  It's so bad. Curse my generally strong stomach, makes it always my problem.
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Feb 24, 2021 18:22
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BonoMan posted:Man I was washing my hands in my kids sink (also the "guest" sink) and I noticed the drain stopper was coated in a black sludge. (on the internal part).
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Feb 24, 2021 19:40
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HycoCam posted:One of my spring cleaning chores is to go around to every sink with an old, smaller, unused litter box (to catch the water), remove every trap, and make sure nothing is gunking up. If I can't get to the trap, I'll stuff one of the smaller FlexiSnakes down there to see what comes out. The girls in our house do have some long hair, which means there is always something to clean out. Yeah I'm going to start doing this. Our sinks and traps are very accessible so it shouldn't be a problem. I did forget one fun detail! I was going *very* slow so as to not get the gunk anywhere. I had two small sink snakes that got so clogged on their first trip through that I couldn't clean them. I had a hanger nearby to get the last little bit out. I slowly get it out. Then I slowly start to fold the hanger up to throw away. The end got caught on it self briefly then "release" and just flung that poo poo all over the wall, mirror and my kids Elsa toothbrush holder. I threw it away.
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Feb 24, 2021 19:54
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Quick dumb question. Freezer in my apartment had the temperature adjusted to deal with condensation by apartment maintenance a couple weeks ago. Started having food go bad unexpectedly early last few days, the temperature setting they turned it to isn't even a listed one on the adjustment dial. Tried to get a reading with my IR thermometer with limited success, readings swinging all over the place. Any good way to get a temperature reading to see how far this freezer is off? What I did get was in the 5-10 F range, which I know is high but still within "frozen"... evidently not quite enough though. Maybe belongs in the pinned maintenance thread, but less "how do I fix this" and more "how do I accurately measure the temperature" (for the refrigerator, too). Fridge is old enough to still use CFCs, 0 digital anything in it. (don't get me started on these ancient appliances.)
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Feb 24, 2021 19:55
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SkyeAuroline posted:Quick dumb question. Freezer in my apartment had the temperature adjusted to deal with condensation by apartment maintenance a couple weeks ago. Started having food go bad unexpectedly early last few days, the temperature setting they turned it to isn't even a listed one on the adjustment dial. Tried to get a reading with my IR thermometer with limited success, readings swinging all over the place. Any good way to get a temperature reading to see how far this freezer is off? What I did get was in the 5-10 F range, which I know is high but still within "frozen"... evidently not quite enough though. Put a thermometer inside of it. Failing that, measure the temperature of an object in it with your IR thermometer (which may be way off in that temp range depending on what it is/the quality)
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Feb 24, 2021 19:59
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BonoMan posted:Yeah I'm going to start doing this. Our sinks and traps are very accessible so it shouldn't be a problem. This made me cackle out loud, thank you. If you can swing it, just drop the ptrap into a bucket and bring it outside. It really helps with the whole spraying everywhere. Can't do it in my tub so I basically hide behind the shower curtain while I do it.
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Feb 24, 2021 20:01
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SkyeAuroline posted:Quick dumb question. Freezer in my apartment had the temperature adjusted to deal with condensation by apartment maintenance a couple weeks ago. Started having food go bad unexpectedly early last few days, the temperature setting they turned it to isn't even a listed one on the adjustment dial. Tried to get a reading with my IR thermometer with limited success, readings swinging all over the place. Any good way to get a temperature reading to see how far this freezer is off? What I did get was in the 5-10 F range, which I know is high but still within "frozen"... evidently not quite enough though. https://smile.amazon.com/Antonki-Hygrometer-Humidity-Thermometer-Greenhouse/dp/B07Z77FK4C For reference, my freezer stays at 0. My fridge stays at 34. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Feb 24, 2021 |
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Feb 24, 2021 20:02
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Motronic posted:Put a thermometer inside of it. Failing that, measure the temperature of an object in it with your IR thermometer (which may be way off in that temp range depending on what it is/the quality) Kinda figured I'd end up shelling out for even more thermometers (guess what else doesn't have one? that would be the oven, which doesn't even have an electrical connection...). The figure I gave was from measuring some things that have been in for a while (days or weeks), both "exposed surfaces" and "surfaces that were hidden in contact with something". All pretty consistently 5-10 F range, walls of the refrigeraror reading 8-11 but I know reflective surfaces interfere with the accuracy. It's not a great thermometer but it's been reading accurately enough for non-food work. e: HycoCam posted:Drop on of these inside and open the door after 20 minutes: ordered. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Feb 24, 2021 |
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Feb 24, 2021 20:02
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HycoCam posted:One of my spring cleaning chores is to go around to every sink with an old, smaller, unused litter box (to catch the water), remove every trap, and make sure nothing is gunking up. If I can't get to the trap, I'll stuff one of the smaller FlexiSnakes down there to see what comes out. The girls in our house do have some long hair, which means there is always something to clean out. This thing is my go to for drain cleaning: https://www.amazon.com/Brushtech-Extra-Super-Flexible-48-Inch/dp/B00IA8CS7W It's flexible enough to maneuver past the stopper pivot rod and usually to get through the trap, so I don't have to disassemble anything. Combined with multiple dumps of very hot water, and a little bleach at the end keeps my pipes sparkling clean.
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Feb 24, 2021 20:37
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H110Hawk posted:This made me cackle out loud, thank you. If you can swing it, just drop the ptrap into a bucket and bring it outside. It really helps with the whole Oh I haven't even gotten to the P trap yet! That's going to be this weekend. This was just everything caught on the stopper and immediately in upper drain. Got lots out and the rest went further down. At least with the trap I'll be able to get se good pix
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Feb 24, 2021 21:01
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BonoMan posted:Oh I haven't even gotten to the P trap yet! That's going to be this weekend. This was just everything caught on the stopper and immediately in upper drain. Got lots out and the rest went further down. At least with the trap I'll be able to get se good pix Pro tip if you can get a bucket under there - take off the ptrap and push everything DOWN into the bucket. Not all vanities will allow for this obviously. Ours does through removing both drawers and using a smallish bucket.
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Feb 24, 2021 21:46
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Motronic posted:Put a thermometer inside of it. Failing that, measure the temperature of an object in it with your IR thermometer (which may be way off in that temp range depending on what it is/the quality) FWIW, now home and (dot is in between the white bags):  Not ideal. Still going to need the "real" thermometers to verify.
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Feb 24, 2021 23:35
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SkyeAuroline posted:FWIW, now home and (dot is in between the white bags): Yeah I mean....I've got a few different IR thermometers. The $700 Cat FLIR Phone is bang on inside of it's specified temperature range. I also have a $15 IR thing from amazon which is several degrees off for anything significant below room temperature but seems to do just fine up to 250-ish. So without knowing how the one you have works in that temp range it's nearly useless information. If you can get it to agree with another thermometer that you stuff in the freezer then you know yours probably works down there well enough to be useful.
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Feb 24, 2021 23:45
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Motronic posted:Yeah I mean....I've got a few different IR thermometers. The $700 Cat FLIR Phone is bang on inside of it's specified temperature range. I also have a $15 IR thing from amazon which is several degrees off for anything significant below room temperature but seems to do just fine up to 250-ish. So without knowing how the one you have works in that temp range it's nearly useless information. Ice with any frost brushed off should come in pretty close to 0C if you want something to base off of for low temps. But honestly when my lovely fridge got like this I replaced it and all my problems went away. You're not going to improve on a fridge old enough to have freon (R-22) in it. I wouldn't suggest sabotage but... (Electrical, not CFC releasing)
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Feb 24, 2021 23:54
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H110Hawk posted:Pro tip if you can get a bucket under there - take off the ptrap and push everything DOWN into the bucket. Not all vanities will allow for this obviously. Ours does through removing both drawers and using a smallish bucket. I'll def do that on the other ones. We have plenty of space available under all of our cabinets (about the only thing good about my piece of poo poo house). However for this one, I'm fairly sure I got some down *into* the p trap so Imma have to clear that out too.
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Feb 24, 2021 23:55
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H110Hawk posted:Ice with any frost brushed off should come in pretty close to 0C if you want something to base off of for low temps. But honestly when my lovely fridge got like this I replaced it and all my problems went away. You're not going to improve on a fridge old enough to have freon (R-22) in it. I wouldn't suggest sabotage but... (Electrical, not CFC releasing) Considering they aren't willing to even look at other appliances in there and are so goddamn cheap they installed a standing pilot stove in new construction in the 2000s...
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Feb 25, 2021 00:00
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H110Hawk posted:Ice with any frost brushed off should come in pretty close to 0C Ice, with exceptions for purity, etc, will be whatever temperature at or below 0C it's surrounding environment is. So basically if you brush off an ice cube from your freezer it should be whatever temperature your freezer is, not a perfect 0C.
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Feb 25, 2021 00:03
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If you want to see if your IR sensor works at freezing temperature, it’s really easy! Use the power of ice water and  https://www.thermoworks.com/infrared_tips_icebath_to_calibrate_infrared
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Feb 25, 2021 02:16
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SkyeAuroline posted:Considering they aren't willing to even look at other appliances in there and are so goddamn cheap they installed a standing pilot stove in new construction in the 2000s... I mean, is it hooked up to water? What happens if you just buy yourself a new fridge?  Weigh the cost of spoiled food and headache dealing with this.
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Feb 25, 2021 02:16
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When was the last time you clean the cooling coils under the fridge? If you don't have one--get one, make sure those coils are clean of dust bunnies and check the temperature again. (But you did say renting too-so yeah, never had a coil brush when I rented.  ) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frigidaire-Refrigerator-Coil-Brush/1058955
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Feb 25, 2021 03:40
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HycoCam posted:When was the last time you clean the cooling coils under the fridge? If you don't have one--get one, make sure those coils are clean of dust bunnies and check the temperature again. (But you did say renting too-so yeah, never had a coil brush when I rented. Been here less than 3 months, but from how much they botched the cleaning since the last resident, gonna guess they didn't either. Have to figure out how I'll be getting under there is all. H110Hawk posted:I mean, is it hooked up to water? What happens if you just buy yourself a new fridge? Compiling issues at this point. Pretty sure the plumbing in here violates code, the exhaust hood 100% violates code (maybe 99% with a really lovely inspector), other issues... Getting enough together that they don't have a way to ignore it and the option besides "fix it willingly" is "I'll get a code inspector out here to make you fix it".
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Feb 25, 2021 03:54
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Our interior doors are cheap, suck, and don't all line up properly with their frames. Looks like interior doors are fairly cheap. How difficult are they to install? Would be nice to save money on installation, but if it's a hassle I may just add it to the list for the GC. Also I have böught the förbidden dishwåsher (It is a Bosch and I am excited thank you all for the advice)
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Feb 25, 2021 03:58
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SkyeAuroline posted:Compiling issues at this point. Pretty sure the plumbing in here violates code, the exhaust hood 100% violates code (maybe 99% with a really lovely inspector), other issues... Okay, I'm with you here but what does this mean? "Violates code" when? It sounds like you're in a lovely old place and I bet all of that was code when it was built so that still stands.
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Feb 25, 2021 03:59
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Motronic posted:Okay, I'm with you here but what does this mean? "Violates code" when? It sounds like you're in a lovely old place and I bet all of that was code when it was built so that still stands. Built in the 2000s, so I don't think they could get away with "unvented gas stove" [M1503.3, 99% because they might be able to argue that the air conditioner counts as "ventilation" despite not having any intake..] or "missing thermostatic valve on the hot water supply line to cap the water temperature going to my sink and shower" [P2803.2] (but the water heater can't even get water hot enough for it to matter... yet). Pretty sure those had both made it into building code long before now. I could be misunderstanding or completely wrong. I've got several shitshows going on in parallel right now and this is one I just don't want to deal with until I have to and I'm tired of them making me have to instead of just doing their jobs. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Feb 25, 2021 |
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Feb 25, 2021 04:09
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I mean....sorry, but you're likely wrong. It doesn't make it okay that you are being treated this way but it also doesn't help your case to go flapping your wings about things like this.
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Feb 25, 2021 04:22
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gently caress. Painting. That is all.
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Feb 25, 2021 04:27
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Motronic posted:I mean....sorry, but you're likely wrong. If I am then it won't make it as far as even bringing this up to them. And it's a possibility that's completely within the realm of reason - I'm not a professional home inspector or anything. I fully admit I'm working purely off the text of the code and the installations in the apartment, not any legal cases where it's been wormed out of. I'd find it pretty hard to argue "no ma'am, it's totally fine that we didn't build to code requirements in the state that were in place at least five years prior to the construction of this building", but I'm not a landlord so I'm actually capable of noticing hazards and not just writing them off as costs of doing business. Sure not looking forward to a second move in a 12-month-and-change span though.
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Feb 25, 2021 05:11
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SkyeAuroline posted:If I am then it won't make it as far as even bringing this up to them. And it's a possibility that's completely within the realm of reason - I'm not a professional home inspector or anything. I fully admit I'm working purely off the text of the code and the installations in the apartment, not any legal cases where it's been wormed out of. If you have a serious concern you can call your local fire marshal and ask. It is your right to do this. I wouldn't start with spouting code, just ask if your gas stove requires ventilation, and what counts as that because you are concerned. You can also try your city inspectors office, or your gas utility. They all are equipped to answer this question. Way more than goons on the internet who haven't seen your apartment. Whatever was designed was almost certainly approved when the certificate of occupancy was issued for your building, unless they made a major change afterwards. It's unlikely given running gas or disconnecting ventilation would actually cost more than just leaving it as-is. Do you have a carbon monoxide detector in the same room as your kitchen? Bedrooms? Hallways? Does it work? Is it unexpired? (Put your hand over the speaker when you press test.)
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Feb 25, 2021 05:35
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H110Hawk posted:If you have a serious concern you can call your local fire marshal and ask. It is your right to do this. I wouldn't start with spouting code, just ask if your gas stove requires ventilation, and what counts as that because you are concerned. You can also try your city inspectors office, or your gas utility. They all are equipped to answer this question. Way more than goons on the internet who haven't seen your apartment. Whatever was designed was almost certainly approved when the certificate of occupancy was issued for your building, unless they made a major change afterwards. It's unlikely given running gas or disconnecting ventilation would actually cost more than just leaving it as-is. Yeah, I didn't trust what they included in the unit so I have a spare CO detector set up in the hall (between the kitchen and bedroom), set it up shortly after I moved in on account of other business outside the thread's scope. Utility's likely the next on my contact list. Already have to get in touch with them about a bill. Might as well do that too.
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Feb 25, 2021 05:47
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SkyeAuroline posted:Yeah, I didn't trust what they included in the unit so I have a spare CO detector set up in the hall (between the kitchen and bedroom), set it up shortly after I moved in on account of other business outside the thread's scope. If you want, walk that bad boy into your kitchen and cook your meth or whatever. Boil a big pot of water on all of your burners simultaneously, and bake some cookies in the oven. If it doesn't go off with all that you're probably fine. I mean, CO2 aint great for you either, but open a window.
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Feb 25, 2021 05:56
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My FTX ventilation system started making a lot of noise. One of the two fans was the problem, bearings shot. Cost of a new fan = 400 euros almost, cost of two new bearings (german F.A.G, quality ones) less than 10 euros.
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Feb 25, 2021 08:18
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His Divine Shadow posted:My FTX ventilation system started making a lot of noise. One of the two fans was the problem, bearings shot. Cost of a new fan = 400 euros almost, cost of two new bearings (german F.A.G, quality ones) less than 10 euros. They are called HRV system in North America. Wonder if they offer you an option for ERV (heat+humidity) as well at build time or is it not as widespread in Finland?
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Feb 25, 2021 17:17
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