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falz posted:Nice.. but if updating cabinets did you just go around them, or go fully under them? no idea about underlayment, I will ask them today and let you know the cabinets will be updated in the future, the actual structure will remain the same, but I will be having them "remodeled" meaning doors and drawer fronts replaced with larger MDF doors and fronts and 1.5" overlay hinges on the doors to give a frameless appearance, definitely slab doors and then they will be painted. Ideally if they can do a mitered "built-in" handle that would be cool - not sure yet. The company that does this already gave me an estimate of like 4200 for my galley kitchen, so I would guess the bathroom would be in the 1-1.5k range. For comparison, I got an estimate for completely replacing all the kitchen cabinets which was around 15k this is the kind of door style I'm looking at (but using a matte finish, not high gloss) https://www.27estore.com/blog/Stylish-Modern-Kitchen-Remodel you can see the mitered edge on lower cabinets and drawers, and then only on upper cabinets if there is something directly below it. if for some reason this can't happen, I like the idea of handles that are painted to match the doors/drawers, not sure if that's a thing or not though actionjackson fucked around with this message at 15:19 on May 20, 2021 |
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May 20, 2021 15:14
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Deck chat. Anyone resurfaced a deck lately? We've got pressure treated lumber that is half faded and half green mossy stuff. Going to pressure wash/scrub followed by... not sure. We're looking at Timber Oil instead of a pigmented stain. I'm more interested in longevity than a particular color or look.
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May 20, 2021 16:02
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https://twitter.com/misterbrandon32/status/1395126235898986497?s=20
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May 20, 2021 17:04
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Needs gutters touching the ground
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May 20, 2021 17:06
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Welp, I got hail and wind damage from a storm recently, so I get to learn all about babby's first homeowners insurance claim
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May 20, 2021 17:49
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Deviant posted:Welp, I got hail and wind damage from a storm recently, so I get to learn all about babby's first homeowners insurance claim Be very careful who you choose to handle the repairs. There is so much shady poo poo going on, fly by night roofing companies. They literally just travel the country, following storms and throwing up lovely roofs as fast as they can. Pick a good local company with solid reviews thats been in business a long time. Check and verify their insurance, and licenses, anything else that applies in your area.
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May 20, 2021 17:52
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skipdogg posted:Be very careful who you choose to handle the repairs. There is so much shady poo poo going on, fly by night roofing companies. They literally just travel the country, following storms and throwing up lovely roofs as fast as they can. Have done this, was referred by a friend who had work done and was very pleased. 4.5 stars on google with 500 reviews in addition. All seems on the up and up. I live in FL so we have lots of local established roofing companies. Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:56 on May 20, 2021 |
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May 20, 2021 17:54
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actionjackson posted:no idea about underlayment, I will ask them today and let you know So that page is funny, it's an exact clone (and likely much more expensive) of the IKEA VOXTORP, which I just did in my kitchen (but lowers aren't white). I very much wanted no handles/clean look as well. Perhaps you could look to see if there happen to be correct size doors or drawer fronts that would match your cabinets, and just buy them from Ikea. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/voxtorp-door-matt-white-80273322/ https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/voxtorp-drawer-front-matt-white-30273348/ 
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May 20, 2021 17:55
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They don't have the size I need, though I really want MDF and then to get them painted a specific color anyway. the grout is finished, the tiles are matte, I think it's just reflecting right now because it's still wet
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May 20, 2021 18:01
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Deviant posted:Have done this, was referred by a friend who had work done and was very pleased. 4.5 stars on google with 500 reviews in addition. All seems on the up and up. Ok awesome!
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May 20, 2021 18:03
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Reviews are important, when I was working with solar companies one of them had tons of crappy reviews and I told the sales man that I had discounted his bid because of that and they might want to work on it. Place I went with had 4.5/5 on hundreds of reviews and most of the low ones were from people who didn’t understand that panels don’t work in an outage without a battery or that you still might get a small power bill. My first bill in Phoenix was $171 and we used less than we expected after sizing the system so I think I will be ok.
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May 20, 2021 18:27
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My initial goon instinct is to search the internet rather than talking to people, but I’ve found that’s extremely not how to do it when finding contractors. The top hits tend to be SEO’d garbage or big companies with solidly high overhead, and the good local ones tend to have minimal presence. Neighbors (at least the ones that don’t have a lovely redone porch) and the town Facebook group recs have been far better resources. Ugh.
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May 20, 2021 19:35
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I think there's a definite Goldilocks thing with contractors. I had that exact same thought, my normal methods are useless, because the slicker the website the higher the markup, or potentially a lower quality of work and they have to work hard on advertising because they're not getting word-of-mouth business. I asked for some recommendations from friends, and got a few plus found another company that was pretty big and slick but I wanted to give it a try. Project is a cracked cast iron vent stack in the basement, it's a 112-year-old house. It's a big crack, it extends up into the ceiling of the basement, so the repair job is a bit tricky, have to go into the walls (thankfully there's easy access from a closet up above. I called on place that was recommended, they've got a website with just a phone number, looks like it might just be a guy in a truck, or maybe a couple of trucks. The number didn't pick up, I left a message never heard back. Too small. The big slick place came by today. You call them up and you get a call center. I get the appointment scheduled (it was this morning), I get a few automated texts leading up to the appointment, I get confirmation of the time via text last night, and I get a text when he's on his way including a URL that lets me track his location so I know exactly where he is. He does the estimate on an iPad (while sitting out in his truck) by picking out a bunch of stuff to add to the quote. They also want to sell me their monthly service plan where I pay $10 a month but the call-out fee is waived. I get a quote of $3200-$8800 depending on scope of work. They're too big, and that's reflected in the price. They're a company that's grown to service the entire metro area, so there's a big overhead of business infrastructure there. Called a local place. Local as in, they're right down the street, about a mile away, and located right in the heart of the city rather than out in the far-flung suburbs. I know they've done work in the house, the water heater from the PO had their sticker on it. I call them up, I get an answer from someone in the office (no "your call may be monitored or recorded blah blah" nonsense, just phone rings and a person picks up). Get the diagnostic scheduled, he comes in, takes a look, explains that even though he can't be sure how far up the crack goes, because of the nature of cast iron it's very unlikely it goes up any farther than can be accessed in the closet. He spends a few minutes with me in the basement looking at some papers he brought with him (presumably pricing info) and writes me up a bid on a piece of carbon paper for $1600. Just right. So I'm going with the local place, and that will be my plumber going forward. And boiler maintenance/replacement most likely, because they do that as well.
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May 20, 2021 20:17
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The good contractors pretty much never have an online presence that extends beyond automatically generated entries on public info websites and possibly a static webpage that their nephew made for them in 1998. You need to ask around (in person or at least on NextDoor/local social media group) to find them. And yeah, I've also found that the sweet spot is the smaller but well-established local guy with good community rapport who still does transactions with checks and paper invoices and literal carbon copies (and also picks up the phone).
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May 20, 2021 20:33
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The other trick is to get to know your actual neighbors and just ask them for anyone they've not hated.
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May 20, 2021 20:50
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I call my local hardware store for referrals
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May 20, 2021 21:14
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actionjackson posted:I call my local hardware store for referrals This is not a bad idea at all. I live in an area where there are still a couple smaller mom and pop type Do-It-Best and Ace Hardware stores. Never thought about using them as a good resource. Queen Victorian posted:The good contractors pretty much never have an online presence that extends beyond automatically generated entries on public info websites and possibly a static webpage that their nephew made for them in 1998. You need to ask around (in person or at least on NextDoor/local social media group) to find them. This is super accurate. Good contractors don't need to advertise. A slick website should be a red flag really. My mom and step dad built semi custom homes for over 25 years with nothing but word of mouth, and referrals. The fanciest they got was a fax line at the house.
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May 20, 2021 21:37
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Having artificial grass put down in the back today. Project manager calls me saying there was a miss communication about the amount etc... etc... we need to charge you more. The guy hasn’t been here so doesn’t know that his crew drove a skid steer over fresh sod and left 6 inch ruts in it for about 12 feet. So I text him a picture of the damage and them driving about in the skid steer. He goes quiet for a second after the picture arrives and says he will call me back. Owner of the company calls apologizing saying how it will be fixed and I don’t need to worry about the mistake they will put down the agreed amount of fake grass. I think someone is losing their toy after today.
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May 20, 2021 22:23
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My town has a FB group and one of the admins maintains a list of contractors recommended by residents, it's super handy. Might be worth seeing if where you live has something similar.
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May 21, 2021 01:15
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We just have racist Nextdoor groups.
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May 21, 2021 01:24
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mutata posted:We just have racist Nextdoor groups. What doctor can remove my boils Those kids are suspicious walking down the street. Any contractor recommendations I need someone to redo my concrete steps and I have fifty dollars. Why so people Park in front of my house it's my house!
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May 21, 2021 01:44
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BigPaddy posted:My first bill in Phoenix was $171 and we used less than we expected after sizing the system so I think I will be ok. Good to hear, but you should really look at the total production recorded on your inverter and the total export recorded on your meter, rather than "oh my bill seems low for this time of year!" at least once in a while. a = production kw/h b = export kw/h c = cost of 1 kw/h d = export value of 1 kw/h e = a - b = your production that you used yourself f = c - d = the value of burning your own production $ = e*f + b*d
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May 21, 2021 03:31
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Deviant posted:Welp, I got hail and wind damage from a storm recently, so I get to learn all about babby's first homeowners insurance claim We had ours replaced a few years back after a hail storm, and the claims adjuster that came out to assess the damage was a great source of info. He knew all the local roofing companies, what type of stuff to look out for on bids, etc.
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May 21, 2021 04:04
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No idea where this goes so I'll try here: Installation instructions for our new slide in dual fuel range states that without their expensive back guard there must be no combustible material in a 6" zone behind range.  I've seen multiple discussions online about this; some say this means just no combustible surface (so put up ceramic tile/brick/etc. And your can put appliance against the wall). Others say it means everything in that space and requires having metal studs, other wall materials can't be combustible, etc. Because the surface material could still transfer the heat, so 6" clearance would still be required. Does anyone know what the actual intent is and retirement in the interest of safety? Not going to tear up the wall, but also don't want to spend 600(!) On a back guard no one knew we might need until after we paid for the appliance. Plan was to just go for ceramic tile backing from hood down to 6" below to of the range. Edit: this is the 'island trim' that's default:  And this is the back guard they want us to buy:  Doesn't look like it does anything but raising that 'vent' and provides a barrier the burners, but since it's an electric oven not sure what that vent is anyways. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 08:05 on May 21, 2021 |
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May 21, 2021 07:31
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BadSamaritan posted:My initial goon instinct is to search the internet rather than talking to people, but I’ve found that’s extremely not how to do it when finding contractors. The top hits tend to be SEO’d garbage or big companies with solidly high overhead, and the good local ones tend to have minimal presence. I asked the facebook group for my municipality, as well put up a craigslist (equivalent) ad when I look for contractors. I see a lot of people use FB now to get recommendaitons. The municipality paper and other small print stuff that still survives often have relevant ads. The local FB group can be boiled down to: -My cat is lost -My dog is lost -Whose cat is this? -Whose dog is this? -Want kittens? -Wind power!!!?!! EDIT: Lol I just read in the paper that the FB group got closed, becaues people (who also happened to be admins) got real loving salty over a news segment about wind power in which some local children where interviewed. Christ what whiny baby admins. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:22 on May 21, 2021 |
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May 21, 2021 09:42
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PageMaster posted:No idea where this goes so I'll try here: It says combustible surface, not material. If you have a non-combustible surface then you are meeting the requirement, I think. quote:As defined in the “National Fuel Gas Code” (ANSI Z223.1, Current Edition). Clearances from non-combustible materials are not part of the ANSI Z21.1 scope and are not certified by CSA. Clearances of less than 6" (152 mm) must be approved by the local codes and/or by the local authority having jurisdiction. Thermador? Looks exactly like our spec sheet. Our permitted plans were drawn up by an architect and we have a stone backsplash and flush mount. Also I know of several houses whose owners made similar installations and nobody has mentioned having to replace their studs with steel, though maybe they put some kind of spacing. Now I’m going to ask my architect though lol.
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May 21, 2021 12:36
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Artificial grass is down. The dogs prefer it prefer it over the course gravel  about 1300sqft was $9000 installed. That included removing the old gravel, leveling the yard and laying the grass. You could probably get it done cheaper but I picked a premium artificial grass that is non uniform in blade colour and length with a 25 year warranty. Of course they trashed the real grass out front with their skid steer so I have to deal with them taking up and laying new sod there now and withholding the last part of the bill until it is done.
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May 21, 2021 14:03
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His Divine Shadow posted:I asked the facebook group for my municipality, as well put up a craigslist (equivalent) ad when I look for contractors. I see a lot of people use FB now to get recommendaitons. iirc you're not in the US. We also get: -were those fireworks or gunshots? (the answer is always fireworks) -just heard a bunch of sirens, where were they going? -things were stolen from my unlocked vehicle parked in my driveway last night, this used to be a good neighborhood
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May 21, 2021 14:30
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BigPaddy posted:Artificial grass is down. Thanks for sharing. The turf itself looks lush, the only thing that stands out as “somethings up with this” from the pic over real grass is the absolutely crisp consistent edge up against the house. That looks great but it’s a bit uncanny to my eye at first. I’ve always seen it on Costco and dreamed about it and wondered how it stuff would look and sun fade over the years so thanks for posting a real pic.
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May 21, 2021 14:37
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PageMaster posted:I've seen multiple discussions online about this; some say this means just no combustible surface (so put up ceramic tile/brick/etc. And your can put appliance against the wall). Drywall is not a combustable surface. Whoever was talking about metal studs and poo poo is a complete lunatic. Two sheets of 5/8" drywall is a 1 hour fire barrier that is commonly used for things like the walls/ceiling between a garage and the rest of a house for example. How deep is your counter? Is the cutout full depth? This should answer the question of where the range needs to be installed and if you need something behind it or not - which absolutely could be a piece of countertop. Or that cantilever if what you need is exactly 6" and you want to spend the money on it. Just don't cover the wall with fabric and it won't be combustible.
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May 21, 2021 14:37
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Hed posted:Thanks for sharing. The turf itself looks lush, the only thing that stands out as “somethings up with this” from the pic over real grass is the absolutely crisp consistent edge up against the house. That looks great but it’s a bit uncanny to my eye at first. No problem, the warranty includes fade as well as reasonable wear and tear. I did have to put up some window shades so that it would not get burned out from reflected sunshine but I was going to do that anyway to keep interior temps down. Will have to see what it is like in a year or so after a summer here.
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May 21, 2021 15:44
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Motronic posted:Drywall is not a combustable surface. OP I think if you were going to use drywall and were worried about it, a heavy skim coat of mud over the drywall would probably get it to 'non-combustible'? E: Did some googling and drywall is indeed considered a combustible material per ASTM E 136 because of the paper facing. https://www.rumford.com/drywall.html It's considered 'non-combustible' in part of the building code, but not in another part-something to do with flame spread vs. will it ignite?? I don't exactly get all that, but in any case there's non-combustible drywall available too: https://buildgp.com/product/toughrock-fireguard-x-gypsum-board/ Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 17:59 on May 21, 2021 |
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May 21, 2021 17:51
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My response was not very nuanced, and this one won't be either because I'm on mobile, but in the context of a the back of a heat producing residential appliance that isn't going to have open flames (against the wall) drywall is non-combustible. As you found when you are looking at a different context (even in the same code book) it may not be an appropriate material anyway. Like say for example as the backing board to a wood stove.
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May 21, 2021 18:13
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Blowjob Overtime posted:iirc you're not in the US. We also get: Yet the times it is gunshots never comes up. One night, we heard three distinct rifle shots. My wife and I joked about how long it would take for Nextdoor to get on that. Never did. We also get "why so many helicopters." Maybe because DC is there and Fort Davison Army Airfield is there and we're right in the middle?
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May 21, 2021 19:34
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Phil Moscowitz posted:It says combustible surface, not material. If you have a non-combustible surface then you are meeting the requirement, I think. Yeah an older thermadore we found. I'd point out that' the internet' is handyman forums and Houzz equivalents, but that we where I found folks pulling out wood studs and the like. It looks like some counties specifically address this and clarify that walls covered in non combustible material are also classified as non combustible. Motronic posted:Drywall is not a combustable surface. Whoever was talking about metal studs and poo poo is a complete lunatic. Replacing an existing range so cutout is full depth. Previous range had the vertical controls for the stove on the back.
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May 21, 2021 20:18
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PageMaster posted:Replacing an existing range so cutout is full depth. Previous range had the vertical controls for the stove on the back. So do you need a finisher in the back? "Full depth" is pretty variable. If it's more than 24" you'll need something back there. Could be as simple as a piece of stainless. Edit: and does you backsplash make it all the way down to counter height? I've seen some that didn't where there was a stove with rear controls. That can also likely look reasonably good with a piece of bent stainless to fill the entire gap. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:34 on May 21, 2021 |
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May 21, 2021 20:27
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Motronic posted:So do you need a finisher in the back? "Full depth" is pretty variable. If it's more than 24" you'll need something back there. Could be as simple as a piece of stainless. There's decorative tile but I don't know what type exactly, and you're right it didn't extend all the way down to the counter height. We were going to do the entire height up to the hood from 6 inches below the range.
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May 21, 2021 21:50
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I've just recently discovered that my basement drain isn't actually a proper drain, and instead ends about 6 inches down in a solid cement cylinder. I think I'm about as positive as I can be that there really isn't a pipe leading away from it that's been clogged. Anyone know what it might be from/for?
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May 21, 2021 23:13
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still waiting for a guy to come back to replace the mouldings and door (lol) but the toilet and electric bidet seat are installed! drat this thing is awesome
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May 21, 2021 23:14
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Gods_Butthole posted:Anyone know what it might be from/for? Getting a permit signed off on where a basement drain was required by code?
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May 21, 2021 23:15
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