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Deviant posted:I had expected closer to about half that.
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Sep 25, 2020 14:44
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tater_salad posted:what was your picture window replacement cost and waht did you assume for that? I always figure picture windows are $texas. I have 2 in my house.. one will be betting removed since it's in a bedroom and the view of the police station parkign lot behind the house isn't really worth a picture window. We paid ~$2000 to replace the picture window in our dining room a few years back. It was about 42"x80" with a half moon panel on top. I think for the rest of the more common windows in the house I'll try to tackle it myself.
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Sep 25, 2020 15:01
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WithoutTheFezOn posted:Did you get quoted for the impact glass version? That’s going to make a significant difference. The high quote is for laminated glass, yes. I could get as low as $7200 if i didn't do the fancy glass, and if I left the picture window out. They're very nice windows, and if the second/third quote places this price in line with reality, I'll probably go with it. Today's adventure? Electrician. But at least I can pay him in beer.
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Sep 25, 2020 15:06
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Deviant posted:Today's adventure? Electrician. But at least I can pay him in beer. Make sure you pay him after the work
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Sep 25, 2020 15:17
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Deviant posted:I knew it was gonna be more, but just in general everything was more than I expected (home ownership.txt) SA forums-> discussion>DIY>The home zone: everything was more than I expected Congrats on the electrician. I did some work a few weekends ago to make my house significantly less burny, probably should have pulled a permit since I changed an outlet from a 1 gang to a 2 gang and wired it up to an abandoned 20a circuit (just ran to an outlet but was also wired with 14/2 intead of 12/2). This work improved having 1/2 of my garage as a "plug in" with a flying splice for a switch loop that powered that portion of the garage as well as my outside door light through suspect outdoor overhead wire that had no weatherproofing and was just taped up no wirenuts at all. It was a shitshow and as bad as I feared. Realistically whatever I did was way better than what existed, and it was done well, properly, safe, and with grounding. Code may have had an issue with me running unarmored NM in an unfinished basement overhead but nothing else is armored / in conduit.
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Sep 25, 2020 15:18
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Deviant posted:I knew it was gonna be more, but just in general everything was more than I expected (home ownership.txt) I spent 20k more than I thought I would for windows and siding, I wanted to use that money to buy a skidloader. For the snow clearing your width of the blower should be decided by the narrowest point you need to squeeze the bastard through. If you get that much snow a plow can be an issue, I've run out of places to put the snow near the end of the winter before and had to borrow a front end loader to get it further into the yard. If money is no object I'd get a nice skidloader, 75+hp and an enclosed cab, with a nice snowblower on the front. See above for the reason why I bought a 28" snowblower instead.
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Sep 25, 2020 15:25
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To be clear, the electrician is fully licensed, etc. He's just also one of my pool buddies.
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Sep 25, 2020 15:53
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tater_salad posted:Realistically whatever I did was way better than what existed, and it was done well, properly, safe, and with grounding. Code may have had an issue with me running unarmored NM in an unfinished basement overhead but nothing else is armored / in conduit. 8ft up and stapled? Go hog wild as I recall.
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Sep 25, 2020 16:12
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H110Hawk posted:8ft up and stapled? Go hog wild as I recall. Most of it was run through it's old pathway more than 8ft up in holes in the joist. The other stuff is 8ft up and stapled until it runs down the unfished stud to the outlet. One spot is not to current code as I didn't want to rewire the whole shebang but it was improved to be more code friendly. Previously it was just taped (with flying splice) and hanging on 2 nails on either side. This junction is now connected in an actual junction box with wire nuts and is stapled in place instead of beign supported by the box / 2 nails. It's just not protected with conduit/armor / 8ft up. Deviant posted:To be clear, the electrician is fully licensed, etc. He's just also one of my pool buddies. yeah I assumed so, better to have a buddy who can help get that $90/hr stuff.
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Sep 25, 2020 16:39
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tater_salad posted:Most of it was run through it's old pathway more than 8ft up in holes in the joist. The other stuff is 8ft up and stapled until it runs down the unfished stud to the outlet. But you intend to finish the walls right? Wink wink.
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Sep 25, 2020 16:50
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Sirotan posted:This weekend I'm removing my front entry door to restore it (it's original to my 79yo house and needs a lot of TLC) and learned if I wanna change the hinges out to nickel it's gonna cost me $67. I made the decision to swap all the brass hardware for nickel in this house so now I can see I'm gonna spend like a grand just on hinges and knobs and strike plates, gently caress. Decided I am not going to splurge for fancy reproduction historic hinges. Anyone else here ever look at your door hinge and think "this would really be improved with some balls" bc I feel like the answer is no and I am not sure why I spent an entire day having to think about this. I haven't been away from this house longer than 4 hours in the last 6 months, think it's starting to get to me a bit.  Edit: here, have some photos of hinges with balls:  without balls: 
Sirotan fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Sep 25, 2020 |
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Sep 25, 2020 17:13
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H110Hawk posted:But you intend to finish the walls right? Wink wink. Any time now just waiting for the drywall to appear on the studs through magic.
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Sep 25, 2020 17:32
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early March: order new flooring (like 4600) oh here's COVID (while flooring being shipped) have only one person to install flooring once arrived due to covid oh good that's over June oh the AC broke replace AC and furnace (8600) yesterday oh the hot water heater broke (it's apparently a really good one, but like everything else is 16 years old) well that's 3000 awesome year, one of the best At least that's everything in my condo I need that costs over 1000 to replace (a few months from now probably) oh god the groaning fridge finally died
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Sep 25, 2020 20:57
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actionjackson posted:At least that's everything in my condo I need that costs over 1000 to replace Your roof would like to have a special assessment of its lifespan and water tightness.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:02
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H110Hawk posted:Your roof would like to have a special assessment of its lifespan and water tightness. That's above my condo, not in my condo  I'm not sure exactly how it all works, but we have our reserve fund.... funding 100%, I think there's a certain % minimum you have to have funded in my state. But really big stuff like that is all built into our budget. My fees have varied between 350-400 a month in the nine years I've been here (my place is small). I know we have had some special assessments done in the past, but none of that has had a huge impact on my costs personally, probably because it's divided up among the condo and townhome owners, and because I have the second smallest residence of anyone in the HOA. My friends just bought a house (in Seattle... it's like a million bucks lol) and they want to replace their roof which is like 8k, so I feel relatively good about my costs here. Plus we have a lot of landscaping and just kind of... weird property - we are at the bottom of the hill and nothing is level. So besides all the landscaping and snow stuff, we always have to deal with water issues of some sort or the other. also I had great timing buying in 2011, and I live in Minneapolis so relative to other major cities my place was cheap as poo poo
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Sep 25, 2020 21:08
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actionjackson posted:That's above my condo, not in my condo I mean  on that 100% reserve, that's awesome. I was just making a joke about your tempting the evil eye by thinking you had replaced everything expensive in your home.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:12
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H110Hawk posted:I mean hah yeah that's true last year I got an LG washing machine and Bosch dishwasher which are really nice. The fridge and ovens are all white (ugh), the fridge refuses to die whereas the ovens I use a lot less so they are in better shape. The space is weird though because it's meant for a 33" fridge, and those just aren't that common. But if it was like 1" wider it'd fit a 36". I'm slowly de-2005-ifying my home. Still wan to paint and add hardware to the maple cabinets, and oh god the popcorn ceiling. It seems with tile floors it's easier to just get a chilewich mat or something to cover most of it up.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:19
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Our one bay window was like 3x the price of our 6 foot sliders, and 5x the price of our normal bedroom windows. It's in the dining room adjacent to the table and has been very nice for flowers, potlucks, and various junk. My car window got cracked by a stone and the crack is getting longer :/ gently caress
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Sep 26, 2020 11:29
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peanut posted:Our one bay window was like 3x the price of our 6 foot sliders, and 5x the price of our normal bedroom windows. It's in the dining room adjacent to the table and has been very nice for flowers, potlucks, and various junk. Yeah that how it go. My bifold doors cost about the same as all the windows and doors throughout the rest of the house put together.
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Sep 26, 2020 11:58
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When people talk about HOA reserves and use terms like 70% funded or 100% funded, what is that a percentage of? Expected expenditures, but on what time frame? A year? A decade? If you have a road you’re responsible for and it’s two years old and you expect it to have a 20 year life span do you count 2/20ths of repair cost as something you should have covered?
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Sep 26, 2020 15:36
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WithoutTheFezOn posted:When people talk about HOA reserves and use terms like 70% funded or 100% funded, what is that a percentage of? Expected expenditures, but on what time frame? A year? A decade? If you have a road you’re responsible for and it’s two years old and you expect it to have a 20 year life span do you count 2/20ths of repair cost as something you should have covered? I am guessing: There are studies that are done which come up with long term financial plans for the HOA. Anticipated expenses (the landscapers, insurance, etc), depreciation/useful life expenses (roof), insurance deductibles, and a reserve which functions as an emergency fund. Just like a business. From there you add it up, apply some odds math to lower the absolute dollar amount by the odds of simultaneously hitting those expenses, and say "this HOA needs $400,000 in reserve." The bank account has $300,000 in it making you 75% funded.
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Sep 26, 2020 16:03
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You are right about the studies part. Not sure about the rest because I don't really pay attention, I just know that in my state (MN) you have to be at least 70% (I believe) funded. I'm pretty sure ours is done at least 20 years out, to cover replacements that are very infrequent, like asphalt, roofs, etc. from my state https://www.revisor.mn.gov/statutes/cite/515B.3-114 https://www.revisor.mn.gov/statutes/cite/515B.3-1141 I've paid between 350-400 a month in fees since I bought my place in 2011, which is based on my square footage. This includes internet/cable though. The nice thing about the internet being included is that it's cheap (it only adds like 20 bucks), and then I can get the $15/month xfinity cell phone plan! Sometimes I think if the money is wasted, but I would never want to deal with a detached home, and almost all homes are too big for me. Also you obviously have your own major expenses - like the roof! actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Sep 26, 2020 |
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Sep 26, 2020 17:39
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One of the major selling points of my last two homes was the standing seam metal roof.
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Sep 26, 2020 18:20
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Just got a quote for a new roof, gutters, and some window replacements. 28k for the roof plus gutters, 1100 per window. Cmon hail storm?
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Sep 26, 2020 20:15
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My friend was asking me about some of these cracks that are pushing out a bit from the wall (one of them is clearly visible in this pic). Is that from water usually? How can they be fixed?
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Sep 26, 2020 20:46
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actionjackson posted:My friend was asking me about some of these cracks that are pushing out a bit from the wall (one of them is clearly visible in this pic). Is that from water usually? How can they be fixed? Those are nail pops/tape coming up. It could be poor install, it could be movement, it could be moisture. It's almost definitely not moisture if that's all you can see. They require proper drywall repair. Depending on what/where it could be a section of re-taping, it's always going to me mudding and sanding, then prime and paint. Unless they are really awful it's the kind of thing you take care of the next time you paint that room.
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Sep 26, 2020 23:23
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thanks, they will be repainting it when they move in so they were wondering
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Sep 26, 2020 23:33
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actionjackson posted:thanks, they will be repainting it when they move in so they were wondering Oh super easy then. Just make sure they get a painter who knows what they are doing (i.e.: "a painter") as opposed to some guy with paint and a brush. Of if they're painting themselves this is basically cataloging and getting a drywall guy out for a few hours. If all the crap is out of the house and you don't expect them to clean up it can be done cheap, at least in pre covid mania.
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Sep 26, 2020 23:42
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Starting to contemplate finishing out my basement. I have an old 1.5 story house with a full unfinished basement, roughly 90 years old. It was built into a hill and the backside of the house has a nice walkout into the backyard that is through a shortened door. When I say shortened door I mean that you have to step up two steps to step out of the basement into the backyard. Which means it is not a true walkout backyard. I share about the shortened door because it's important to the coming question. This was originally a house that was brick and along the side of the house towards the back a single floor addition was put on that has a storage space under it. Without getting out the measuring tape I would guess this addition is about 10'x15' and is the side entryway/kitchen extension. Here's where it gets interesting. The space under the addition doesn't have the same depth as the basement even though it's located right next to the basement. The people adding the addition didn't decide to dig down, rather it shares the height of the backyard. A.k.a. two steps up from the basement floor. Right now I store some stuff in there like a power washer that can get moved to the garage and a few sawhorses. Really a waste of storage space because I don't need it. On top of that the previous owners who put in the addition ran HVAC pipes through the addition's storage space and didn't really insulate it enough. In the summer it's hotter in that part of the house and in the winter it's absolutely freezing. Since we are starting to think about finishing out the basement I've been playing around with the idea of digging out this storage space and connecting it to the basement so that I can have an additional room in the basement; or to say about an additional 150 sq ft of space. The storage space under the kitchen addition is connected via a window to the basement so I know I could make that window into a door. Thing is by my measurements this is about 21 cubic feet of dirt I'd have to dig out. It'd bee good as an additional room and a way to get insulation under that part of the house. Which leads to my question. Is this a dumb idea? I am open to doing as much of the work I can myself including digging and carrying out bucket by bucket the dirt. Thing I would be concerned about would be causing the structure under the addition to fail and collapsing part of my house. That would be bad. Other thing is I don't even know where to start speaking to a person to find out if this is achievable? Like do I find a structural engineer to review my idea and talk to me about it? Do I speak with a general contractor? I just don't know. If what I’m trying to describe doesn’t make sense I can try to get some photos. EDIT: My numbers were off. I measured and it's more like a 14'x6 room that I would be digging out. Maybe some would consider the effort not worth it for such a small room, but I think about how it could be a fun little office or hobby room. Earth fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 01:00
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The 1st thing that jumped out at me--90 year old basement. There was no concept of vapor barriers 90 years ago. The dirt got compacted and the concrete poured. Without a vapor barrier mold becomes and issue. There are steps you can take to minimize the mold growth but it will be a constant battle. As for the 10x15 addition. It sounds like there is a crawlspace under the addition? Turning a crawl space into a full basement is far more work than using buckets to Great Escape the dirt out of there. You would need walls/a foundation able to support the addition and prevent the edges of the space from caving in.
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Sep 27, 2020 17:05
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HycoCam posted:The 1st thing that jumped out at me--90 year old basement. There was no concept of vapor barriers 90 years ago. The dirt got compacted and the concrete poured. Without a vapor barrier mold becomes and issue. There are steps you can take to minimize the mold growth but it will be a constant battle. Thanks for replying. The addition to the house is not 90 years old. If I were to guess I'd say no more than 50 years old. Right now it just sits on cinderblocks that have been mortared together, and those cinderblocks sit on top of the concrete pad that I want to cut and dig down to make another room. As for moisture that's one of the things the house handles really well. I'm on a hill and the previous owners did a really good job of making sure there are no wet spots anywhere on the property. It's clear I'm going to have to get some pictures because I don't think I'm doing great at explaining.
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Sep 27, 2020 21:39
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Has anyone have popcorn ceiling removed? I assume it's only worth it if it's REALLY ugly or in bad shape, because even for my 980 sq feet I'm guessing removal + wall repair + painting is like 4K minimum.
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Sep 27, 2020 21:51
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Earth posted:Thanks for replying. The addition to the house is not 90 years old. If I were to guess I'd say no more than 50 years old. Right now it just sits on cinderblocks that have been mortared together, and those cinderblocks sit on top of the concrete pad that I want to cut and dig down to make another room. Yeah, okay.....so no, you can't cut a slab and start digging below the footings that are holding up your house. It's possible to do this the right way, but I'm gonna guess the right way is more expensive than demoing whatever you've got now and starting over.
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Sep 27, 2020 21:57
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Motronic posted:Yeah, okay.....so no, you can't cut a slab and start digging below the footings that are holding up your house. Which when your house collapses on top of you your insurance will pay to rebuild. And your life insurance payout will make it such a nicer house.
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Sep 27, 2020 22:37
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actionjackson posted:Has anyone have popcorn ceiling removed? I assume it's only worth it if it's REALLY ugly or in bad shape, because even for my 980 sq feet I'm guessing removal + wall repair + painting is like 4K minimum. As someone who had looked into this before, I heard 1/4in drywall over the existing ceiling is the better option.
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Sep 27, 2020 22:54
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:As someone who had looked into this before, I heard 1/4in drywall over the existing ceiling is the better option. can you explain this a bit more - they just put drywall on top and then paint it? is better meaning cheaper or just looking better?
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Sep 27, 2020 23:20
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actionjackson posted:can you explain this a bit more - they just put drywall on top and then paint it? is better meaning cheaper or just looking better? literally yes. this is also the solution i arrived at if i wanted to undo knockdown texture
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Sep 27, 2020 23:59
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Deviant posted:literally yes. this is also the solution i arrived at if i wanted to undo knockdown texture either option is definitely not something I would do myself, so for me it's more of which costs less. I assume the option suggested would be somewhat less. I also found this online https://www.armstrongceilings.com/residential/en-us/ actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 00:20
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When I removed my popcorn ceiling it came off super simple with a scraper, whole house only took a couple hours. Probably full of asbestos though, I never checked!
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Sep 28, 2020 01:03
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Gotta die or something.
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Sep 28, 2020 01:05
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