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Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Real talk, how well do robot vacuums work these days? I would prefer not to spend $Roomba if there are cheaper alternatives.

We have hardwoods throughout the house and cat/dog hair just collects like crazy, I'm constantly swiffering/vacuuming.

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Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Has anyone in this thread had aluminum siding painted? My house if from the 50s and aside from the original white paint going chalky and partially washing away, the siding itself is in great shape. I would definitely be getting this done by a pro.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

I just had mine done. It took my guy one day, and it came out amazing. (gently caress off previous owner, and take your electric blue with you!)

If you don’t mind, what’s your house size and what did you end up paying?

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Is there any consensus on a good cheap thermostat? I only have central (oil) heat atm so I’m not really looking for something like a Nest. Just something a little better than the old round Honeywell one that has probably been in the house for 1,000 years.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
So I currently have a small, sad shelving unit that sits over my basement steps. I’m looking to replace with something like those Rubbermaid wire shelf kits however my issue with those is that they’re too deep and would stick out too far into the stairwell. I’ve been unable to find shorter shelves for those types of kits, anything else I could use aside from building some shelves myself?

https://imgur.com/a/XWUlX

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

H110Hawk posted:

How do you hope to improve upon your current setup?

H110Hawk posted:

How do you hope to improve upon your current setup?

I was hoping for uniform shelves going across the width from top to bottom.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Another issue I’d like to address, I’m looking to insulate my floors. The joists are exposed in the basement so installing it won’t be an issue, I’m just at a loss as to what type of insulation to use. I’m hoping to reap some thermal benefits as well as some sound dampening from the cold/echoey basement.

I’ve seen stuff like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/133.3-sq-ft-Reflective-Roll-Insulation-(16-in-W-x-100-ft-L)/3775469

But I’m not sure if that’s recommended for this situation.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

just another posted:

I'll try to snap a better picture tonight, but that's not a joist that's wet. The previous owner had a makeshift shelf or something built in the crawlspace and it's the remains of that. Here's the top of it:


And the leaky hole closer up:



It looked like the water was coming out of that hole, not that water was dripping down from above there. That being said, I wouldn't be surprised if there's leaky plumbing somewhere. That's a lot of water coming through there considering we haven't had a heavy rain in a few weeks.

I was gonna say, you're gonna have bigger problems if that is a joist, it looked more like a 2x4.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Has anyone had to have foundation parging redone? I have a cinderblock foundation with a skimcoat of either stucco or something else.

I’m in the process of chipping off loose pieces to make the reapplication process easier. I really have no interest in tackling this diy aside from prepping the walls.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
The back door on my house has that type of window, I never knew what they were called! I love them!

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Are there any good resources for maintaining/dealing with hot water radiators? The house I’m buying has them so I’m aware of having to bleed them occasionally but I was wondering if there was more to deal with.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
I’m moving into a house with 100+ year old heart pine floors. They seem in pretty good shape and I’d like to avoid refinishing if I can.

Two questions:

Anyone have any experience with wood floor ‘rejuvenate’ type products? Are they worth it/do they actually do anything?

Can anyone recommend a motorized non-commercial floor polisher/cleaner? My microfiber mop is fine for cleaning but I’d like to have the floors look nice when I’m done.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
A small bedroom in my new house has glue under the carpet. Carpet is coming up fine, just not sure if it’s worth the effort to refinish the heart pine floor vs laying down engineered hardwood or something.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Yeah as someone with a home that has mostly old/wooden windows, new windows that aren't probably covered in lead paint and have screens would be great. Who gives a poo poo about recouping costs, it's a house not a business.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

His Divine Shadow posted:

Normal people have got budgets and limited money, so it does factor in for most people.

As it does for me, hence why I still have old wooden windows.

But I mostly am griping over the handwringing over recouping costs or helping resale value etc. I’ve put off too many convenience projects that when I eventually did them I was like ‘holy poo poo why did I wait so long’.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Redoing the bathroom, it looks like I have a 52” tub in an alcove. Where the hell can I find these things? It almost looks cheaper to redo the wall and plumbing to fit a standard 60”.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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lol nice just got a letter of cancellation for my homeowners insurance demanding that I trim a tree and replace my entire roof (about 20 years old at this point)

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

B-Nasty posted:

What insurance company and how many claims have you filed in the past?

I've heard of ins companies being up peoples' asses about things they don't like about their houses, but I've never gotten anything close to that from State Farm.

Homesite via Geico. I moved under a month ago (From MD to PA) and kept the same insurance. I had trimmed the particular tree like 2 weeks ago of my own volition, but gently caress replacing a perfectly okay roof a month into new homeownership. I offered to have a licensed roofer give it a 'health check' but they wouldn't budge.

I've been shopping quotes so now I just have to get all my poo poo transferred. What a hassle!

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

Fallom posted:

People in my area get pushed to replace roofs every 4 years. It's loving wild and a massive waste of money.

What the hell kind of area is this. What the hell are the roofs made of!?!?

No poo poo I got a new roof like 8 months before I moved. They guy said the company warranty is like 30 years but I could expect the shingles to last 60 or so.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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These were architectural in my case, and from my limited understanding of shingles, you can get nicer architectural with a bunch of features that may not do anything, or regular architectural. Weather pending in all cases of course. This things haven’t existed for 60 years so who knows if they’d actually last that long.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Yeah if I’m gonna spend over 10k on something it’s gonna be a full room reno or new windows, not the fuckin roof.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
So this is a bit odd but one of the toilets in my house has a strong smell of body odor coming from it? I’ve lived here about a month and the toilet doesn’t seem to be super old or anything. I’ve cleaned the tank and the bowl as best as I can with a brush and Clorox but it seems to linger.

The smell is definitely in the bowl and nowhere else in the bathroom. Can anyone suggest any intense as hell cleaners to help with this?

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

life is killing me posted:

I had a similar problem, different odor though. Turned out to be the wrong kind of gasket that didn't give a good seal on the sewer line. Are you absolutely sure it's the bowl and not a bad seal? Because what may seem like it's coming from the bowl could be the plumbing underneath, directly above which sits the bowl. Worth looking into, at least.

I can go in the basement under where the toilet is and there's no discernible smell as far as I can tell. Like no poo poo I've smelled around the bottom of and behind the toilet, it's seems to only be in the bowl itself.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

The Wonder Weapon posted:

We closed on our house a week ago and I've spent every spare hour since last Friday removing wallpaper.

I do not like wallpaper.

That is all.

We had like 5 rooms with wallpaper in the house we got 2 months ago.

In the dining room, it peeled right off without any sort of spray or prep. Easiest drat thing in the world.

Then came our bedroom. We discovered there two layers of it, the bottom layer being some sort of vinyl paper? After doing about half of a wall with scoring and spraying, we ended up buying a wallpaper steamer. It still sucked, but at least it went a little faster.

gently caress wallpaper.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
So I'm in the process of rebuilding a tub shower surround from the studs. What is the current generally accepted 'best way' to go about this if I'm planning on tiling? Regular cement board on the studs and then tile? Something else? I'm trying to avoid dealing with/spending $$$ on any number of fancy German waterproofing systems.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
IMO wood over MDF whenever cost permits.

My house has 100 year or so year old 6inch baseboards like the one you linked in every room, between the 9 foot ceilings in the living room to the 8 foot bedrooms, it all looks fine together. There’s a part of the house they redid with that clamshell crap and it looks awful contrasted with everything else.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
So I have a beige-ish color granite countertop in my kitchen. It looks super boring/not great against the white cabinets.

Is there any sort of treatment that I can use on the granite to darken it? Ideally I’d like to replace it with something in a dark grey in the future, but spending $$$ on an otherwise fine counter isn’t in the cards right now.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Honestly if you want to just paint you just need to put some wood putty/gap filler in those divots before you paint, you wont really be able to tell the difference. The same will go with a refinishing, as others have said. A good refinishing can make the worst floors look new again, provided there's nothing crazy like oil stains that are soaked through the wood.

Though not previously painted, here's a before and after of my pine floors that had been under carpet for 30+ years: https://imgur.com/a/Fadbm5p

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

The Wonder Weapon posted:

How do I connect this new light fixture:


To this very old mounting system that the old chandelier used?


I have a bunch of poo poo like in my house from old fixtures with wires that are literally coming through small holes in the ceiling/walls.

Ideally you install a box and mount it to that, but all I did was to use 2in screws to firmly mount the bracket into the ceiling plaster. It worked for the previous chandelier and it’s working for the new ceiling fan so far.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Toilet: achieved

Ended up using a wax ring and it went together fine. A little wobbly due to the floor but some shims fixed that!

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

Nevets posted:

Looks good! The tank lid looks pretty close to the top of your wainscoting, it isn't going to interfere with your chair rail, is it?

Nah, there’s like a two inch gap behind the tank lid so it’s good. I really wanted it higher but the wife wanted to keep it at 32in.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Bathroom is plodding along!

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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I have this wonderful builtin cabinet with drawers in my bathroom. However the previous owner (who was apparently a painter???) used some poo poo-tier latex over oil-based paint, so it looks like it has dandruff. I'm in the process of sanding loose stuff before I prime and re-coat, but man this is just awful.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Just discovered that the Samsung fridge I have becomes useless at dispensing water/making ice when a water filter is installed. It came with the house so I just figured it was another bad Samsung appliance, until I googled the model number and found a number of complaints. It slows to a trickle and makes an awful pumping noise with one installed, took it out and it’s like a faucet.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

Motronic posted:

Where did you get the filter?

There is a serious counterfeiting problem with those at the moment, exacerbated by amazon's binning system.

It's a homedepot generic filter, but the complaints online mentioned issues with direct-from-samsung parts as well. The tap water in our area is fine, so I'm not super concerned. My wife is just happy we have a steady flow of ice now.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Anyone familiar with a vinyl plank or otherwise waterproof floor that looks like slate (or a darker stone)? I’m looking for something to replace the cheap poo poo laminate floor in my kitchen but I’m not a huge fan of the faux wood patterns.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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cakesmith handyman posted:

Could you jump straight to actual tile?

From what I can tell it's laminate > some foam underlayment > heart pine floor (which the rest of the house has). I'm not sure of their condition, being under poo poo laminate floor for who knows how long otherwise I'd get them refinished.

I recently tiled my bathroom which was relatively small and my kitchen sqft is roughly 3x as large. As much as I would love actual tile, prep would be hell.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
I live in a ~roughly 100 year old house with heart pine floors. The main floor is all straight grain, I had them refinished earlier this year and they look beautiful.

Upstairs they’re of a much lesser quality, which is to be expected for the period. They had also been under carpet for probably the last 60 years. They are mostly fine aside from a few water damaged boards from a radiator that I have patched temporarily with fir boards, and the general grime from being under carpet forever. The boards are also directly on top of the joists.

I would like to get them refinished however I’m not in a situation (nor do I have the time) to move bedrooms around for the multi day process of sanding, coating, buffing, coating, etc that it would take to get it done.

So this brings me to some other options. I’ve ruled out 3/4 hardwood since my radiators only have so much wiggle room to meet the steam pipes coming out of the floor, and introducing almost an inch of space beneath would certainly require me to refit some of those pipes.

Then there’s luxury vinyl. Some of the options seem really nice, though I’m generally hesitant of the faux wood look that most of them have. However install seems simple and it’s cheap. I’ve also discovered that they make 5/16 solid hardwood boards, which I could install over the existing floor without loving up my radiator placement. I’ve heard bad things about engineered floor so solid would seem like the better choice, despite being thin?

Does anyone have any experience or recommendations between those two? I’d be doing two bedrooms and a small hallway with whatever I end up picking.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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Hm so while on floor chat, is there any sort of mid-tier when it comes to ‘floor maintainers/buffers/etc’ between big gently caress-off rental types you get at the hardware store and just scrubbing by hand?

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Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

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SpartanIvy posted:

Pex is easy. I would avoid the sharkbite fittings myself for the copper to pex connection but lots of people use them and I haven't heard of any issues yet.

As for pex you can either go the crimp ring route or expanding (uponor) route. I've got uponor and haven't had any issues. It has some advantages over crimp ring like being more flexible and bigger inner diameter on fittings, but the downside is the tool costs more for it. Crimp ring is easier to find in stores too. I have to go to plumbing specific stores for uponor stuff.

I have a friend of a friend who had a crimp ring break on them and flood their house. I think you're safer from that kind of catastrophic failure with uponor simply because of the physics behind it.

Just want to add that there are crimp and clamp rings. I used the steel clamp rings on my shower and it was super easy. I actually had to redo a part and cut the rings off, it was hard as hell to just get the compressed pex off of the barb.

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