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BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

I checked the code book and couldn't find anything specific on this situation: the valves under the kitchen sink leak and they're those little oval shaped handles that cost about $7. I hate that kind. Would it be stupid/not allowed to put half turn ball valves on them instead?

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BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

That is helpful thank you

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Anne Whateley posted:

Can anyone recommend a handheld showerhead? I'm not looking for a combo or anything with a weird fancy docking system. I just want a plain handheld with a handful of settings, a regular dock, and plenty of psi. 2.5 gpm is fine, I'm not in an area where I have to think about drought.

I wouldn't trust me either but I've had this cheap thing in my master bath for over a year and it's been great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QZV9CLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aHVsFbB0MXTVB

We have one of the more expensive Delta ones (ours is this style but I believe 2.4 GPM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G2HEJKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4JVsFb8EAE19W we moved to the other bathroom and it sucks, especially for the price. The only flow limiter I could ever find on it is the screen inside, and removing it didn't do anything for the water pressure. This kind with the halo around the main showerhead needs a ton of water going through it to feel like anything more than a light drizzle.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

That seems bad. Is it poop?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Our electrical service line from house to pole (our responsibility, the utility will not trim trees to protect this line) goes through our neighbor's yard, under their trees. Several of the branches look not great, but I'm no arborist.

These people are also letting poison oak grow up their lovely chainlink fence so I have a feeling they're not just going to get their trees trimmed if I ask.

Do we just wait for the trees to take down our line and tell them to pay the reconnect fee if it happens? How does this work?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

HycoCam posted:

Pull up your neighbors plat and see if you have a powerline easement. If you do--that powerline easement will allow you to trim back the trees/ensure the power line will not get overgrown. If you don't have a powerline easement--call the power company and ask why you don't and tell them you need to get the line trimmed.

So what I'm getting from this is that trimming the neighbor's tree is our responsibility bc it interferes with our power line. Is that right?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

My husband and I just bought a place that has a bunch of funnel web spiders all over the front windows of the house. They're cool, keep to themselves, and they absolutely wreck the houseflies and horseflies.

Spiders are cool and good.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

We're doing a largish format tile backsplash/kitchen wall so in prep for putting up wonderboard lite (per manufacturer) I found this rickety crap in my kitchen:



Disregard the broken waste pipe, I dropped half a sheet of drywall on it.

The "studs" are 1.5x1.5. My plan is to pull out everything that makes up the kitchen wall (the back wall is the bathroom wall) and replace with 2x4s. That would be 2x4s across the top and bottom screwed into the wood above and subfloor (or floor joists?) on bottom. It's 8.5' wide, so I figured 7 studs across (including outer edges) because the cement board can't span more than 16" OC.

I intend to attach the electrical boxes to the new studs right where they were before and dispense with the blocking in the center. I haven't dug through the book yet but maybe one of you folks will know if the plumbing needs a certain clearance from the studs?

Does this plan make sense?

E: feel free to poo poo all over the lighting fixtures, PO had no loving taste

BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Sep 4, 2020

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

BonerGhost posted:

We're doing a largish format tile backsplash/kitchen wall so in prep for putting up wonderboard lite (per manufacturer) I found this rickety crap in my kitchen:



Disregard the broken waste pipe, I dropped half a sheet of drywall on it.

The "studs" are 1.5x1.5. My plan is to pull out everything that makes up the kitchen wall (the back wall is the bathroom wall) and replace with 2x4s. That would be 2x4s across the top and bottom screwed into the wood above and subfloor (or floor joists?) on bottom. It's 8.5' wide, so I figured 7 studs across (including outer edges) because the cement board can't span more than 16" OC.

I intend to attach the electrical boxes to the new studs right where they were before and dispense with the blocking in the center. I haven't dug through the book yet but maybe one of you folks will know if the plumbing needs a certain clearance from the studs?

Does this plan make sense?

E: feel free to poo poo all over the lighting fixtures, PO had no loving taste

Bumping to see if this is a stupid idea

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

MrOnBicycle posted:

Speaking of 3D modeling your house, are there any good free programs that are easy to get started in?

I used SketchUp to design our kitchen and like it a lot. They have a 30 day pro trial which is long enough to learn to use it and model some things if you work on it a few days a week. It's a legit trial too, you don't have to give them payment info and worry about cancelling at 30 days.

SketchUp Make is still available to download for free, which I've been using, and is pretty full featured.

There's definitely a learning curve so you'll need to watch some tutorials, but it's pretty user friendly once you get the hang of it. Check out Steve Ramsey SketchUp for woodworkers on YouTube, it's a really good first tutorial for modeling.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Lol the electrician hired by the PO prior to sale has just sent us an invoice for the work, in my husband's name.

Do I just call this guy and tell him to contact the PO or what?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

A possible lien is what I was afraid of. It's only $90 and this dumbass already paid for a home warranty (which we'll probably never use) which we'd declined, so we'll just pay this one to make it go away. I'll send him a letter but I doubt I'll see any money.

But talking to our agent and will seek out a lawyer since this piece of poo poo has probably stiffed everybody else too.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Wow our agent sucks too. "Call them and tell them to send it to PO and name drop his agent."

Looks like I'm getting on the phone and telling strangers to gently caress off today.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Elder Postsman posted:

I hung 4 sheets of drywall today. Gonna start mudding it tonight. I'm hiring someone next time I have to do something like this. :negative:

Any tips? Hubby and I are putting up cement board for tile on a wall I framed out. I'm thinking we might put it on while the wall is still flat on the floor and just do the very top and bottom after the wall goes up.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

We have all those things except the carrier, we just carry the sheets together.

Is the T square significantly easier to use than a speed square and long level for scoring?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

The t square was worth it, thanks for the recs

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

I can't even laugh, we're getting ready to put the same flooring down and this is a nightmare scenario to me.

I mean I've so far displayed a modicum of competence but I'm not tempting any LVP gods if they exist

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

What constitutes a "remodel" for the purposes of permitting, generally?

My locality has it listed as something that requires permits along with plumbing and electrical work on branch circuits, but how far does that go down? Do they expect permits for swapping out an outlet or a sink?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Should I call the locator service to make sure I don't hit anything important before I dig a shallow grave for my husband in the back yard?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Motronic posted:

Can you make him do it? That way if something is hit it's his fault.

That's a great idea, you're such a good resource

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

$5000 for all the labor of disassembling, painting and prep, and reassembly of everything doesn't sound unreasonable, it's a lot of work.

Our kitchen is about 6x8. It's an open plan MCM on the small side so it depends what you consider kitchen, but that's the footprint of all the kitchen cabinets. We're doing all the work ourselves for the first time and in around 7k for new ikea cabinets, new sink and disposal, HD butcher block countertops, demoing a 2x2 wall & reframing & large tile backsplash/wall. We also bought cabinets to make a sideboard/pantry in our dining room and went with I think the most expensive doors and the most expensive drawers in every cabinet, so it could certainly be done for cheaper.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

If it makes you feel any better, waterproof laminate isn't piss proof either.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

We just bought a house but haven't moved in yet, though we've mowed the yard a couple times.

Nthing reel mower with electric trimmer. We have the Fiskar's max reel mower which works fine (some reviews say it's a little heavy & the Scott I think is lighter) and a Ryobi cordless trimmer. It's so nice not having to screw around with oil and fuel and fighting the drat thing to start just to mow the lawn.

devmd01 posted:

How’s that saying go, projects beget projects? I was up on the ladder this afternoon working on replacing the caulking on the front window header boards, look over, and spot this:



I swear I’m gonna end up spending $200+ in caulk alone by the time I’m done with all the exterior crack TLC that needs to happen.

Uh I'm no brick expert but I don't think you're supposed to caulk that?

E: I forgot I have my own problem(s)!

The walls in my house are comically thin. It's framed by 2x4s. Including drywall and cladding, the walls are only 6" thick. As far as I can tell, there's no sort of vapor/moisture barrier.

I have the drywall off one of the exterior walls, and the sheathing in one of the stud bays is almost completely rotten. There isn't a clear pattern where I can identify water intrusion, so I'm worried this might be condensation caused by filling the bay with insulation.

Is there any way to go about preventing this without rewrapping the entire house?

BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Oct 9, 2020

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

We have a bunch of Makita cordless, I like them a lot.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

OSU_Matthew posted:

Every project I tackle I run into horrible poo poo from 120 years of previous owners. Cumulatively I have probably done more to this house than all of them combined. It warms the cockles of my heart to think that someone will be cursing my name in 120 years :allears:

Me, every time I fix something in my house.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

pArT oF mE eNvIeS hOw bLiNd yOu CaN bE

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

The only reason I ever care about when the dishes get done is being able to crack the door open to air dry everything as soon as it finishes.

I'd much rather have one that pops the door open on its own than one that takes more electricity and water.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Deviant posted:

every time i touch something it gets worse.

New thread title?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

H110Hawk posted:

Look here buddy...

My wife didn't understand my hatred of round bowls when we were trying to figure out a remodel of our "wasn't legal when signed off" second bathroom which has not enough space for anything. External genitals pressed against the inside of a toilet will change your opinion of that quickly. It's so gross and so cold.

Does she drip dry? We have the world's smallest round bowl in our basement and I can't wipe without getting toilet on my hand. It's horrendous.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Those things are attached to floor joists on both sides, isn't any deflection in the floor going to sound like an appalachian folk band?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Counterpoint, can't get frostbite if your gym is on fire.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SZDZLQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_XRf0FbJR0NSJ9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I bought the cheaper, non-adjustable version of this a couple years ago on a goon rec and have been really happy with it. Mine has the same capacity as this new one, which holds more than the nicer looking lipper one.

You can stack those little short mccormick and tones jars on their sides and get 3 per space, too.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

peanut posted:

Our shower is a prefab Toto "unit bath" (Sazana model) with plastic wall panels and flooring instead of tile and it's very comfortable and can be installed in 1-2 days. You have enough space to make a wetroom style shower and you won't regret it.

Do... Do they make this for the US market?

I want a wet room so bad

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

The PO did a poor paint job and it's bubbling up in spots. It's drywall. Do I just sand this poo poo down to the mud and start over? I've never fixed paint on drywall before.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Yeah it's like midway up an interior wall with no mechanicals in it, I'm confident it was just poor prep (famous last words, I'm sure).

There's a lot of bad paint elsewhere in the house. Stuff with uneven coverage, heavy brush marks, paint drips, that sort of thing. Same deal, sand it flat, prime, and paint? Would you TSP before priming?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

The height looks natural to me, the depth not so much but you won't notice it in a few weeks.

Are you going to cut down those cover panels or leave them long like that?

We're doing a sektion kitchen in ours and a sektion sideboard to serve as the pantry in our "dining room" since there's zero pantry storage in the house.



The countertop finish is still curing so that was just a dry fit and we've since put all the cover panels on top and bottom. We mounted the cover panels so they're flush with the doors instead of the cab frames, so the 18" handles shown there won't allow the bottom cabs to open. We didn't have handles for these cabs due to a shortage so we're ordering shorter ones for those. Still on the fence about putting handles on the top cabinets, probably will since we got the high gloss doors and I have grubby hands.

Kitchen doesn't exist yet because I've been avoiding doing the electrical.

e2: don't worry, that poo poo chandelier is going in the loving trash.

BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Dec 31, 2020

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

falz posted:

Nice, hadn't thought about SEKTION as a sideboard. Re: my micro depth, you mean because its too shallow or too deep? Neither bugs me, I just wanted to keep it as shallow as possible, which it currently is. Note this style micro is about 2" deeper than most for whatever reason.

Curious how you got your side cover panels to be flush with the doors? On mine, the default size was like 1/4" short and I was annoyed. They would fit if there were a gap to the wall, which seemed odd or dumb. It seems like the default size of these should be slightly deeper for this reason. The pic below seems to show them out slightly. I cut mine to be flush to the cabinet, as well as a rail notch on top so I could still take the cabinet down if need be. All of that is hidden as it's sandwiched between other cabinets.

My cover panels drop down a few inches, that's intentional. I have yet to add the FÖRBÄTTRA Rounded deco strip. This is an option that's generally used to help conceal any under cabinet lighting, which I added (non-ikea). I'm waiting to add the strip as well as the cover panels on the wall edges until the lowers are installed so they can line up properly with the stove.


It will end up looking like this:



I think the micro looks a little deep for the space but it's not crazy or anything.

That deco strip looks sharp, we're trying to do the ikea under cabinet lighting in the kitchen so probably not as necessary in ours.

There is a bit of a gap between the wall and the cover panels, but only about a quarter inch, and it's only really visible on the left side so :shrug:

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

All of our base cabinets in the kitchen are drawers that pull out all the way :ssh:

I'm short but my back has been hosed up for over a decade, I have no patience anymore for leaning over and digging through poo poo.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

luminalflux posted:

Our current kitchen is Ikea and it's all drawers. This is the 2nd kitchen i've had that's this way (Ikea Maximera i believe) and it owns.

I'm so glad to hear this. We're doing maximera drawers in ours, but haven't put it together yet.

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BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

We kept a stack of kitchen towels in the sauce drawer. Maybe try that?

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