Home Zone: I see a baseboard and I want it painted black.

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Home Zone: I see a baseboard and I want it painted black.

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cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

wormil, honestly that built in counter makes the best of a bad space unless you want to put a free standing oval bath there (and block your closet). Personally I'd say replace it with a tasteful copy, maybe a wider sink, nice taps, big sliding doors on the cabinet below so it's a blank wood or lacquer finish.

# ¿ Apr 13, 2016 14:08

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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 09:32

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

They work better on the ceiling :colbert:

And that's the ugliest light fitting I've ever seen.

Congrats though. When's it due to be finished?

# ¿ Sep 1, 2016 09:51

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I have £1 paper Ikea light shades, don't take my design tips seriously.

# ¿ Sep 1, 2016 13:59

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Build drawers into the left alcove, put doors over the hole on the right and have somewhere to hide the vacuum.

# ¿ Oct 5, 2016 20:21

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

wormil posted:

So how difficult is tiling a tub/shower? The tv shows make it look easy but I know better than that. 60 year old house, I gutted and remodeled the bathroom but the framing around the tub is original. What I'm worried about is getting the cement board nice and flat, my understanding is flat goes a long way toward making tiling easier. I'm kinda surprised there isn't a foam product to go between studs and the cement board to compensate for minor variations.

Tiling a flat surface is 1% as hard as a not flat surface, yes. Foam would move causing grout to crack.

# ¿ Nov 27, 2016 00:59

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Lawn care: anyone ever fit a universal scarifier blade to a lawnmower?

# ¿ Mar 15, 2017 18:55

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I've got like 200 square metres of lawn I'm not raking moss up by hand.

# ¿ Mar 16, 2017 11:36

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

um excuse me posted:

The hell is wrong with my house?

I bought my first house this month. Upon doing some aesthetic crap I started noticing something

The shelving is perfectly level. The left side of that closet is the outside wall of the house. It was built in '83. Is this normal? I don't see any cracking and there aren't any attempts to hide anything like fits of crown molding.

This picture is amazing. Can you get down the side of the unit? What hides in the darkness? Is there a hidden room behind your stuck bookcase/door?

# ¿ Apr 12, 2017 19:29

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

w00tmonger posted:

So I have a problem and I'm not sure how to fix it

I have some drawers in my newly bought house where the previous owner hosed up and didn't tighten a bracket into place. This means that the drawers collide with the one below them when they are opened and closed.

What's the trick to fixing this. The screw is covered by the counter on top, and there doesnt seem to be any vertical movement in the screw. I can shift it from side to side.

Anywhere else on the forums geared towards sorting this sort of stuff out?

Take the drawers out, cut the screw, then drive a big long screw up through the vertical bit of wood into the top (and counter) at an angle. In fact so this twice, once from each side. Measure carefully to ensure your screw won't come through the counter top.

There's a general diy questions thread here in diy, called fix it fast.

# ¿ Apr 23, 2017 11:09

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Can you section off that bit of the lawn to let it grow?

# ¿ May 8, 2017 18:49

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Magnus Praeda posted:

It'll move at least 1/4", though, if I tighten down the screws to hold it even a little firmly and that'd be enough of a deflection to cause a noticeable warp in the corner board.

I actually did think about cutting an oversize hole and using a backer block of some kind but I'm worried about water ingress behind the siding if I do. I'd have to treat it like a very tiny window or door and figure out a way to add flashing, etc.

Can you drill a hole in the concrete floor/ground for the dragging bolt to drop into? No house damage, secure gate, cheap.

# ¿ Jun 6, 2017 18:23

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Pollyanna posted:

Today I found out that it is not actually possible to re-roll those roll-packed spring mattress that IKEA sells. There goes that idea

I'm now imagining the machine they invented to compress and roll a spring mattress :allears:

# ¿ Jun 14, 2017 21:42

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

My house has those trusses, bonus running anything through them is laughably easy but also none of the walls downstairs are load bearing - I can move walls around willy nilly because the trusses are sized for clear spans across the house.

# ¿ Jul 5, 2017 11:21

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Can I ask interior layout advice here? I'm thinking of dividing up our downstairs which is currently fairly open plan, but suffers from no clear division of purpose, also noise & kitchen smells spread everywhere.

Top view current layout

Current kitchen

Problem - tumble dryer doesn't fit anywhere other than the corner, which isn't great in a dining area. Kitchen only has a single oven, we'd love a second and there's no space. (The TV's not actually that big and there's my wifes craft ~~dump~~ desk behind it) Purple armchair next to the bookcases doesn't get used and is only being kept because it's in good condition.

Proposed layout change top view

Improved kitchen

Benefit: kitchen/dining area and lounge are isolated from sounds and kitchen smells spreading. Tumble dryer comes into the kitchen proper next to the washing machine. Space for another oven appears. Crappy ikea bookcases replaced by classier wall unit arrangement. Wifes craft desk stays in nearly the same position but isn't right behind the tv forced to listen to whatever is on. Purple armchair goes to a better home freeing up space.

This requires us to put up a stud wall, move a couple of light switches and rearrange one section of the kitchen, not massive expensive changes all told. No change to the TV/Sofa arrangement, it pretty much works for us as is.
Can anyone see any really big obvious problems with this layout?

# ¿ Jul 26, 2017 21:11

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Jaded Burnout posted:

Seems like a good minimal change, only things that spring to mind are:
- What does that writing/computer desk lookin' thing get used for? Where does the chair go and will it block that big entrance and/or navigation around the kitchen table?
- Where's your hob, is it that patch that's moved over a bit? Do you need ducting for an extractor?
- In your place I'd rotate the top sofa 90� so the occupant can see the TV too.
- Any issues with cramming that much electrical drain / heat & vibration generation into a small area with two ovens and washer and drier?

Good questions!

- What does that writing/computer desk lookin' thing get used for? Where does the chair go and will it block that big entrance and/or navigation around the kitchen table?
It's in place of my wifes craft desk in the later layout, chair goes under it when not in use and wouldn't interfere with a full family meal/getting around the table & chairs.

- Where's your hob, is it that patch that's moved over a bit? Do you need ducting for an extractor?
in the top view it's on the outside/south wall between the two wall units, there's an extractor already. It won't be moving.

- In your place I'd rotate the top sofa 90� so the occupant can see the TV too.
As mentioned it currently works as is, in more detail the two sofas don't fit that way and would block the radiator under the window, we don't really watch TV as a family event so odd but it works for us.

- Any issues with cramming that much electrical drain / heat & vibration generation into a small area with two ovens and washer and drier?
The only issue is electrical, as I'm adding 2 13amp appliances to that area I'll run another dedicated circuit. The breaker box is under the stairs behind that wall so it won't be far.

# ¿ Jul 26, 2017 22:03

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I'd not given that any thought yet, does it need to be used as part of a system or will it make a difference just as a substitute in a normal stud wall?

# ¿ Jul 27, 2017 09:41

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I want to rearrange our kitchen as per discussion in this post but one main issue I've come up against is needing to put a free standing appliance under an oven cabinet. So currently I've a 2150*600 oven cabinet with cupboards above and below, I want the oven and top cabinet, but above a 60cm front landing tumble dryer. How is this achieved? I don't want to replace it with an integrated appliance as they're generally worse than their free standing counterparts and more expensive.

E: this isn't possible, the appliance is wider than the gap in the unit, I either need a custom wider unit or a different layout. Different layout it is. Back to the drawing board

cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Aug 23, 2017

# ¿ Aug 22, 2017 22:10

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Insulation, also try covering your windows when it's sunny to stop the heat getting in.

# ¿ Aug 23, 2017 22:50

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

QuarkJets posted:

I know. That's why I put (3.5" x 3.5") in parens.

The problem is that the posts that are currently in there are 3.25" x 3.25". So the holes are too small for nominal 4x4s, by a quarter inch on each side

If they're set in concrete you need to dig up and replace the concrete footing anyway, use nominal 4x4s. If they're not in concrete what are they in?

# ¿ Aug 31, 2017 08:27

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I love the brutalist umbrella stand / pink umbrella juxtaposition. Needs more green frog face wellies.

# ¿ Oct 23, 2017 10:53

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Fitted thermal blinds? Other than new window units you've not a lot of options.

# ¿ Oct 28, 2017 08:21

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Southern Heel posted:

Do you mean thermal blinds on the roof itself, or the separating portals?

It looks like the front and rear walls of the extension are single-course bricks (if you look at the window sill behind that round table, you can see the thickness of the wall) - would that be strong enough to hold double-glazed panels?

On the roof windows themselves.

The wall will be strong enough to support the weight of the windows but oh jeez. If that's truly single brick construction you're going to lose so much loving heat through the walls. Right, interior insulation loses you internal space but is mechanically quite simple, just batten off the wall, insulate the gap and fit good thick plasterboard over that. Exterior insulation is a lot harder as it need to be weather proof, but is basically: stick eps sheets to the wall, render over them.

Good luck whatever you decide to do.

# ¿ Oct 28, 2017 13:42

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

This is why I don't build houses, good point.

# ¿ Oct 28, 2017 20:20

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

They wouldn't? I'd definitely spring for decent triple glazed roof window units though, as that'll be your main source of great loss after fixing the single brick walls.

# ¿ Oct 29, 2017 18:07

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Southern Heel posted:

It seems that an "indemnity policy" might be on the cards for this strange extension - basically, get that and leave it as it is - and then when it comes down the line to more significant structural work in the kitchen (i.e. opening up that wall) then get planning permissions to make the whole area livable and block out the roof/walls properly in a single fell swoop a few years from now.

The only question I have is, how much should I ask to be taken off the house price?

Depends on asking price, cost to rectify properly, house value after rectifying etc etc. As it's not currently "right" it needs either the interior walls/doors putting back or the extension bringing up to standard, those are your immediate costs/bargaining points. What you do with the saving and when is up to you.

# ¿ Nov 3, 2017 09:16

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

devicenull posted:

Is blown cellulose an option? Can't get much less harmful then paper and borax!

What if I'm an ant or a wasp huh? Didn't think of that did you you insensitive clod.

# ¿ Nov 16, 2017 07:29

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Aga are that much better (the proper ranges), smeg aren't.

# ¿ Nov 29, 2017 08:23

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

You could buy a decent freestanding cooker/hob if you plan to design the replacement kitchen around it, do you have gas or electric supply or both to that location? Which would you prefer? (I'd recommend gas hob/electric ovens but induction hob is also good, just not cheap)

# ¿ Nov 29, 2017 10:00

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Oh I forgot that was you, I'm sorry for your (heat) loss :v:

Okay so, I assume the single? oven is under the hob currently, you can buy a new single oven and slot it in, then plan to reuse it in whichever location later. Or you could make a hole and buy a 60cm unit. Personally I'd plan for 2 single ovens but that's me. You'll be frustrated using that aga if you've not grown up using one or use it all day every day, they're... Different...fantastic but different. Spend that money on insulation etc.

Personally I wouldn't be troubled if I had to buy a couple of temporary b&q units to fit ovens into, but I understand some people would be upset seeing that. I say this because I'll never again have an under counter oven, chest height is immeasurably better.

# ¿ Nov 29, 2017 14:44

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Those sound like not-unreasonable numbers, personally I'd do the electrics myself but it depends on how many there are and how far to move them, vs how much free time you've got.

# ¿ Dec 1, 2017 19:13

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

If they're built-ins you'll need to do a little butchery, if they're free standing you'll need to completely remove both units.

E: if you're worried about the worktop needing support I installed a 2.6m length of worktop at the end of my last kitchen supported only at the back and ends and it never bowed

# ¿ Dec 3, 2017 01:28

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Definitely insurance claims, also if you plan on renting you need it recertifying every couple of years.

# ¿ Dec 3, 2017 14:18

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

More wallpaper paste and thumb tacks to hold it down until it dies

# ¿ Dec 7, 2017 11:56

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

B&Q sell thin sheets of black corrugated plastic for exactly this purpose. Don't do what my builder did and put it down after the second fix without sweeping, so a billion bits of wire and insulation and boot grit got trapped and ground into the flooring.

# ¿ Dec 14, 2017 15:33

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I've seen it in store but the website was apparently written by rabid sentient turds so Travis Perkins has it under the name proplex.

# ¿ Dec 14, 2017 19:38

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

That's actually cheaper. Good call.

# ¿ Dec 14, 2017 20:23

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

You might still feel it through carpet and padding, but you can grind down imperfect spots by hand/angle grinder if it's bad.

# ¿ Dec 20, 2017 08:05

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Use the attic space, but install a series of Korben Dallas/5th element pull down weapon racks.

# ¿ Dec 27, 2017 21:56

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Now I'm wondering about how to do so in my garage.

# ¿ Dec 28, 2017 14:58

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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 09:32

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Our builder was 6'4"ish, at 5'8" I'm the tallest in our house and we have 2 small kids. This meant he saw nothing wrong with installing an on-the counter-sink in the downstairs toilet that was basically about nipple height for me. After 2+ years I've finally swapped it for a recessed basin so the kids don't need a stepladder to wash their hands any more.

Fun things to note: if I'd not been able to make the current hole in the worktop work with the new sink removing it would mean taking the door frame or tiling off first, such was the order of installation.

# ¿ Dec 31, 2017 11:58

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Home Zone: I see a baseboard and I want it painted black.

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