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Japan has been way into timber framing for thousands of years, no reason to quit now.
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May 8, 2016 03:31
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 05:19 |
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MetaJew posted:Had my toilets backup last week despite not not flushing or putting any significant amount of solid waste down the drain. It’s very sweet that you think such a thing will only cost you a grand, though I guess it might be that cheap if it’s pretty close to the surface. If they have to bring in a digger and go down 6-8’, you’re probably looking at a much heftier price tag between equipment rentals, added insurance for trench work, and a bigger crew required to execute it. A similar issue close to where my sewer pipe exited my house cost me nearly $20k and involved a 10’ deep pit in my front yard. The best way to reduce the chances of roots getting in again is to remove any trees along the path of your sewer line, if there are any, but that can only do so much, given how root systems work.
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Nov 25, 2019 21:04
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gay_crimes posted:I'm looking at houses in a historic area, they're beauties from the 1910s-1930s. How much of a total idiot and glutton for punishment am I being as I seriously consider purchasing in this area? Anyone have resources or horror stories to link that will sober me up to reality? Expect to have to replace basically all pipe-based connections if they haven’t been updated in the past 15-20 years. Water line, sewer, gas, etc. Ditto any heating appliances except past 5-10 years. Chimneys/brickwork in general are another weak point where people don’t do proper maintenance/restoration. If you’re in an area with basements, make sure you know what you’re getting into - concrete vs rubble, potential dirt floor, etc. A good and thorough inspection is very useful, and if a seller tells you that something is okay and for whatever reason the inspector can’t get to it (sewer scope-type stuff, typically), get it in writing so you can nail them to the loving wall when it costs you $20k a year and a half later.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:04
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I got a panel move/upgrade/better grounding and a sub panel installed for like $6k in my old-rear end Seattle house, but that was like 6 years ago before it was impossible to get contractors to return your phonecalls, let alone have people and materials to fit you in on a reasonable timescale. $10k definitely sounds high and worth shopping around. I don't know if the company I used (Exact Electric) will beat that, but my experience has been that they will at least call you back, which puts them ahead of a good 80% of electricians around here.
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Dec 8, 2021 08:45
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Pretty much any wood finish is going to be food safe once fully cured, but what you go with is going to depend on what you’re using the surface for - if you’re using it like an actual butcher block/cutting board and cutting on it, just straight mineral oil is going to be much better than some sort of polyurethane that would be perfectly reasonable on a table, for example. The downside of a mineral oil finish is that is has to be maintained - you’ll want to wipe on more every 3-6 months or so. If you’re just using it as a general prep surface and not cutting things on it, a wax-oil blend like Osmo makes is a really nice option because it’s very reparable, but there are literally hundreds of reasonable finish choices that will come down to personal preference on level of film/sheen/coloration that you want on it.
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Feb 2, 2022 02:40
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 05:19 |
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That appears to be an oiled up chunk of 1x4 with some hooks like these in it to me. Could slap your own together in an afternoon with minimal tools.
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Jul 12, 2022 09:36
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