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Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Vim Fuego posted:

Finished the laundry room renovation and paint job. Thanks to NomNomNom for suggesting PVC trim boards for the baseboards, those worked great.

There's no before picture, but basically I built the wall, drywalled it, primed and painted around the hydronic system, fixed all the holes and dings in the drywall in various spots, replaced non-gfci outlets with gfci outlets, built and installed a shelf over the sink, and replaced an old light fixture with an led I had laying around.

Then for fun painted some stripes.

Tape:


And finished:


The brown and yellow are colors we have elsewhere in the house. The red and orange were picked up to complete the 70s stripe gradient

Echoing everybody else, that's fuckin fly and a lot of work.

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Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




NomNomNom posted:

I skim coated the seams in the wallpaper, sanded, primed it, and painted over it. Not perfect but sure beats stripping wallpaper in a vaulted stairwell. Now it's the next guys problem.

gently caress, this is a great idea and I think I'll do this in my dining room...

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Motronic posted:

Edit: JFC, the correct search term appear to be "metal expanding hollow wall anchor" Why is all of this poo poo so hard to find?



It's those things.

Weird, I def found them agree searching molly bolts. I've only ever used snap toggle bolts, so I'm curious to hear an answer to armorer's question, as well!

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




I've got TSP-PF right now; trisodium-phosphate phosphate-free. I'm about to tackle the cabinetry, where I'm sure my PO did not even do the most minimal of wipe downs, ever.

I just found a single piece of tape she just... painted over. Not any kind of strong tape, just.. office tape. Barely an inch long. With maybe half a millimeter of paint glopped over it :psyduck:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




My Wayfair cat tree is huge and I have kinda been procrastinating dealing with it


drat does painting with a good roller and good paint look and feel amazing though. Still improving my cutting in technique, but wow this roller is legit night and day different

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




papa horny michael posted:

I can't recommend a good four inch roller enough. you can really get close

Exactly what I upgraded. Wooster 4" and 1/4" wool nap. So fuckin smooth.

Guy at the SW store was completely unhelpful both with asking about paint hues, "uh I think the hue changes side to side, or maybe it's up and down", and with recommending any rollers or their brush thingies. He just kind of pointed at the cheapest ones and mumbled something about wool, no mention of nap thickness, what paint we were using, anything. Never having him help me again.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Fallom posted:

What kind of blinds would you guys recommend for bathroom windows? Right now the whole house is cheap vinyl blinds so those have to go.

I was thinking cellular because they’d let light in while still offering privacy but I wasn’t sure if the humidity would mess them up.

We have pleated and really dig them!

Piggybacking off your post: what's the best way to clean pleated blinds? My PO I would guess never did any cleaning of her... anything :barf: so I would like to clean her filth off the blinds soon. Any tips?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Gonna crosspost this from the home ownership thread crust I never know where to ask these questions :derp:

Johnny Truant posted:

Well, drat. My homie had 20 extra hinges oh the same colour/style as my cabinetry hardware... but they're too small :cry:

Is the best thing to do to bring one of the cabinet doors with me to the hardware store to figure out the proper size? I... anyyway threw away the old ones, like an idiot.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




devmd01 posted:

I called the right guy to clean my fence, he has a serious setup. Totally worth $300 for as much fence as I have. Had him clean the playground too while he was here, might as well re-stain that while I am doing the fence.



Tag yourself, I'm the sweet hat hanging on the back wall.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




QuarkJets posted:

I'm a big fan of corded electric mowers and want to recommend that you try one. They are cheaper, lighter, and never have to be recharged.

Counterpoint: they're corded.

Checkmate.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




DaveSauce posted:

I find it annoying enough to use my corded edger and hedge trimmer, but I only use those a couple times a year max.

I'd sooner cut each blade of grass with a dull butter knife than use a corded mower every week.

Yup. When I was a teenager my pops got a corded one and didn't believe me that it was the worst, since I was always the one tasked with mowing. I told him alright pops, just mow the lawn once, tell me how it is.

We had a cordless mower that same day :wotwot:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

A guy I know bought a bookie's house and it had 6 phone jacks in the bedroom where the bedside table goes.

Arsenic Lupin posted:

I knew a guy in 1985 who was building a new house and put AppleTalk cables throughout the house. I don't know if he left strings in place as well, but I hope so.

My POs were boomers. At least one coax and phone jack in every room. Basement had three coax, the 'office' had three coax and two phone jacks. All installed DIY, half of them run through the AC ductwork :psyduck:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




His Divine Shadow posted:

Agreed, counter space is prime real estate. I wanna add more by getting a small kitchen island on wheels, just so I got another place to chop at, because the counter space goes fast when cooking.

I have one of those and it's fuckin amazing. It was built by the POs and needs some heavy duty fixing(why the gently caress they used joint compound to slap their remaining bits of baseboard trim on it will never make sense to me) but an extra 8sqft of counter space is :yum:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




BonerGhost posted:

My husband decided to fill nail holes in wood trim with joint compound too :iiam:

The first time I tried to write this reply I got stuck on their logic being "it dries white and is sticky".

lol

I wish my fuckhead POs only used it for that. They literally used it as an adhesive... :psyduck:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Speaking of fireplaces, I have a question regarding mine, pictured here:


My wonderful POs, in their cheap and garbage wisdom, have a fireplace... front? that is not the proper size. (I don't know the term for it - the actual metal insert pictured above)

Closer photo:


This leaves a good 2" gap, that I can handily for my fingers into and just reach around into the fireplace. Is this... awful? We're hoping to use the fireplace this winter, so I'll be calling a chimney company to inspect it, but I dunno if this is something I can buy the insert for and install myself, or if I should have the chimney people assess.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




BigFactory posted:

Is that an electric insert? If not then it doesn’t look right.

Oh definitely not, it's a wooden fireplace.

Any photo of my house probably contains a multitude of "doesn't look right" things, thanks POs :cry:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Arsenic Lupin posted:

I would be worried about smoke; air is supposed to go in, over the wood, and up the chimney, and if combustion stuff leaks back into the room around the sides the room is going to get smoke-stained surprisingly fast.

That's what my parents were worried any, the smoke escaping via those gaps.

armorer posted:

Is there a cast iron box in there that aligns with the doors? Or is it just a facing panel and the inside of the fireplace is otherwise unaltered?

Ah, hmm, not sure. I can inspect it when I'm home tonight. I think it's the latter example you gave, cause that seems like the worst possible outcome?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




actionjackson posted:

you definitely want a night light, unless you can aim in the dark really well, or want to blind yourself

...what? Just... turn on the light?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Yeah if wasps started crawling out of toilets I would burn my house down and just start anew, nope nope no thanks noooooooooope

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




So, I'm about to be having my flooring re-done on the first floor, which means removing all the baseboard trim, which means perfect time for painting! :derp:

But here's my main issue - in my dining room, the POs painted over wallpaper. They painted over it really shittily. I also think they may've been the ones to put up the wallpaper, cause I can see it bubbling, not being flat, and just generally being there, underneath the paint. So, I feel like I have two options.

1) Paint over the painted-over-wallpaper. I feel like this is.. not a great option? There's small spots here and there that need drywall patching, sanding, etc. In the corners, at least up by the ceiling where there is "crown" wallpaper(not sure what to call it, separate strip of different patterned wallpaper where crown molding should go), you can visibly see where the wallpaper installers didn't completely crease it. There's also quite visible bubbling in a few locations, some not-so-great edges of wallpaper that are not remotely smooth, you get the gist. This I think would be the 'easiest' option but... painting over painted wallpaper just seems wrong. Am I wrong in thinking that?

B) Figure out how to remove the wallpaper and start anew! Would this process be any different than removing wallpaper 'routinely'? I was thinking of renting a hand steamer thingy from Home Depot to remove the wallpaper.

I'm trying to assess what my options are here, hoping I can get some advice.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




:sigh:

I kinda knew that I was screwed, was hoping for some kinda hail Mary option to come out the woodwork but... well, gently caress.

Thanks for the advice y'all. I may just remove the wallpaper on the main dining room walls then just paint over the over-the-cabinet bullshit...

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Vim Fuego posted:

This would be the easiest, fastest, and most effective thing to do. Removing wallpaper is possible but awful.

Hm, well guess I'll look into it a bit more seriously! Any recommended resources on doing this?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Clayton Bigsby posted:

Just keep in mind that you'll likely be removing all trim/baseboards/etc. And trim around doors/windows will need to be bumped out 1/4" and filled in (I usually use a 6x15mm or so piece of trim for this when I do it).

Lol well this was already gonna happen cause POs royally hosed up basically all the trim, like dig this:


Luckily the only door is the patio deck door. Although I dunno if I'd want to adding more drywall above/around all my cabinetry. Fuuuuuuck there really is no good way to go about this, is there :psyduck: Now I'm wondering if I should try to find a local drywall specialist...

Vim Fuego posted:

whole lotta helpful info

Holy poo poo, thanks!

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Vim Fuego posted:

they just jammed it in then painted it.

I think you have just captured my POs mantra perfectly with this statement. For example - I just took down the indoor noise-making apparatus for my doorbell. Well, behind it was a hole in the wall filled with way too many wires for a doorbell. There were four holes surrounding the wiring 'hole', two without drywall anchors and two with. That's par for the course in my house. But they had pushed all the wiring of the doorbell back into the hole, then just... painted everything. Drywall anchors, holes, large hole, the loving WIRES. And then what did they do? Just put the doorbell aparatus back up on the wall to hide the painted wiring, still in an open hole in the drywall :psyduck:

Queen Victorian posted:

I don't even think it's even a plinth block - seems to be a piece for the top corners of the casing. Oh poo poo and what is that tall piece on the other side? Just more baseboard that's randomly taller? Seriously what the hell.

Ding ding ding, that isn't a plinth block, it's just one of the circular accents that're supposed to be placed in the upper corners of doors! And the other tall piece is just a weird corner.. accent? thing that they put in random locations. No, not every doorway corner has one, in case you were wondering. :sigh:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Johnny Truant posted:

Lol well this was already gonna happen cause POs royally hosed up basically all the trim, like dig this:


The sequel:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




NomNomNom posted:

Wait what was holding it on? Thoughts and prayers??

Lol, we did pop the nails outta all the trim before tossing it. But there were two 6ft sections held on with two nails only, then multiple <2ft sections with 4-6 nails and glue :psyduck:

Pulled up the entire first floor today before noon though, because the only actual fasteners were 3 screws underneath the transitions. So the POs absolute idiocy and fuckbrainery actually helped us out this time! We were gifted with their masterful cuts:


And they even left us some drywall patch mesh stuff as a gift! They just hid it! ...under the floor?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




skipdogg posted:

That’s carpet seam tape. Still doesn’t make sense for it to be there though :confused:

Vim Fuego posted:

That's from the previously installed carpet. They just didn't remove it!

They also never actually adhered it properly. Like, I just picked that up. It wasn't stuck to anything. They just... set it there. Then put other poo poo on top of it.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Vim Fuego posted:

An unassisted gravity installation may be allowed by the flooring manufacturer. You can check the product manual

:psyduck: this is sarcasm, right?

I love the distribution of holes here:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008






Ripping out carpet is so easy, holy poo poo! One of the flooring installers told me to get an ice scraper on a pole and to just scrape up the underlayment, cause it'll take most of the staples with it, and fuuuuuuck that saved me so much effort.

Fuckin pro tip, right there.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Dumond SmartStrip worked excellently for me!

Paint stripping is never fun, though, only varying degrees of tedious. I was just slapping on like 1/4" of stripper on and letting it sit for a good 6 hours because my POs must've been trying to do a terrible paint job.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




In the same vein as weed killer, I think it was this topic that period mentioned recs for a pesticide you can spray around the outside of your house, can anyone chime in on that again?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




First plumber call happening today, my POs somehow hosed up my toilet water valve. :mad:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




gently caress that reminds me I should look into one of those mail in radon tests

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Thanks thread, for reminding me I need to call the duct cleaning company to let them know I don't need their dryer vent cleaning services :coolspot:

In other news, got the quote back for redoing my hosed up fireplace: $11,500. Yup, that's... probably never gonna happen. gently caress I'm pissed off at my POs

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Motronic posted:

Like all construction/contractors right now, chimney/fireplace guys are going nuts. Add to that the time of year and yeah, that's how you got that quote. It will likely get better, especially in the spring when they don't have as much work.

Yup, the two guys that came out to inspect everything said as much. I could maybe get the price down a bit if they weren't trying to save the mantel and the "tiling" that the POs decorated the fireplace with.

Was really hoping that could be our one Big Project for next year, but maybe it'll be next next year :sigh:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




BadSamaritan posted:

First winter in a house you’ll probably find a different Big Project soon enough

:ohdear:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Question about baseboard trim/painting!

So I had my entire first floor floor redone, which meant ripping out the terrible baseboard trim the POs hosed up when they installed it. This means I'm left with my first floor looking like this:






So this brings me to my actual question: what's the best way to go about fixing this? Fuckhead POs used absurdly large trim, 7.5" if I'm recalling correctly, which I am... not going to replicate. So my trim will be shorter than the damage to the walls that the previous trim did upon removal.

I'm guessing that I will be using a lot of drywall compound to cover this damage up, but also have no idea if there's something better to do, or if drywalling over these spots is bad, or what. :shrug:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Sous Videodrome posted:

amazing advice

:swoon: Thank you for these instructions!

I already have an 18lb bag of 90-minute hot mud, so I'm glad I don't need something specific for this task! I'm 100% not going to be putting the texture back in, thank gently caress. A few follow-up questions for you:

1) By "lightweight premix for the top coats" you mean for the final coats of compound, correct? Why do you suggest using a premix for the top coats?

2) Why does the brown drywall paper need an oil-based primer? I'm nervous about using a spray can cause I feel like that'd be super messy?

3) I have never done normal drywall installation, could you elaborate on "feather out the edges just like you would.." please?

And a not really specific to my situation question: I thought since I already have the trim off, it'd be easiest to paint before I install the baseboards? Drywall issues not withstanding, I was thinking my process would basically be like prime walls, paint walls, install baseboard, paint any focal points that need it? I was going to buy pre-primed baseboard trim and then paint it before I was installing it because I thought that would be the easiest and most efficient way to do it. Thoughts? I'll also probably be piecemealing this job over some weekends, if that makes any difference?

Sous Videodrome posted:

It's a pain and it looks like poo poo

No need to describe literally every single thing my POs did, drat :mad:

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Amazing, thank you for all that advice! Especially about the caulking tip and how it should be painted - I definitely did not know that at all.

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Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




nm posted:

Gustof Stickley used 12-18in QS* boards for baseboard trim. If it was good enough for him, its good enough for you.

Seriously, follow the drywall advice below, it looks good. Drywall repair is annoying but it isn't hard. Wear a mask when you sand.

*Goddamn, I wish I could get 18in QS boards. gently caress.

That would be better than what it was:

Johnny Truant posted:

Lol well this was already gonna happen cause POs royally hosed up basically all the trim, like dig this:



Regarding drywall sanding/dust: do I need anything more than an N95? I was reading about taping off as much as you can cause the poo poo gets everywhere, so I'm def going to look into some thicker plastic tarps. Do I need a HEPA filter for my shop vac?

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