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Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I'm thinking of getting some roller shades for my living room / entryway. I've got 7 big floor to ceiling windows that face west, in the summer afternoons it gets really bad. Any suggestions on the type that would block out the most heat?

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Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Jaded Burnout posted:

2. Something on the inside that will reflect as much light back out through the glass as possible without it having a chance to get all up in your business, like foil or other silvery stuff. White also works OK.

That is what I was leaning towards doing.

I saw some stuff like this:
https://northsolarscreen.com/indoor-shades/high-performance-verosol/
but I wasn't sure how well it would actually work and was hoping somebody here had experience with a product like this.

If it's just snake oil, however, I'll just get plain vinyl shades and save some money toward replacing the windows themselves with much better ones.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Looks good! The tank lid looks pretty close to the top of your wainscoting, it isn't going to interfere with your chair rail, is it?

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Anybody here have a recommendation for vinyl roller shades? I ordered some from Blinds.com and when they finally got here the quality was really disappointing. I know I bought the cheapest ones, but the bottom weight was attached really poorly and the tube was made from cardboard. I'm thinking of returning them, but if all the companies are like this I may just have to accept it.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

No, they were the ones here:

https://www.blinds.com/p/blindscom-economy-blackout-vinyl-roller-shade/503433

Not all that much cheaper than those Bali Shades.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
These things don't actually go to court, right? HD & Menards just cuts them a $10,000 check (most of which goes to the lawyers) without admitting fault and then the news outlets don't follow up since there's no attention grabbing headline.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Untrustable posted:

I kind of want to solve the mystery of why the double door on the back of the house is screwed shut with a board across it.

:10bux: says portal to another dimension.

Either that or the hinges/latch are hosed and the cheapest 'fix' was to turn the door into a wall.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
The good thing about booblights is you can usually replace them with ceiling fans pretty easily.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Bloody posted:

* why did i screw the drywall to the plywood box base from the front instead of the back? fortunately i have enough drywall scrap to replace this piece and screw it from the back so there's no screw heads to deal with on the visible face

Will this actually hold? Seems like most of the work is done by the wide screw head holding the soft drywall against a stud. I don't know if the threads are going to hold it well enough.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I bought a matching reclining sofa & recliner for my new house about a year ago https://www.besthfstl.com/item/everlasting-reclining-sofa/685450215 for $1600. I had trouble finding one that wasn't leather or microfiber, and a recliner that didn't rock/swivel, but got lucky at the third furniture store with a salesman who actually new his poo poo and didn't try and upsell me.

My mother loved her leather couch but she hardly ever used it, now my brother has it. I don't like them, they make a ton of noise went you move around, and you have to be careful around them with anything remotely sharp like keys, usb plugs, bent denim rivets, belt buckles, etc.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
1.) You could put in some floor length curtains, but unless you also want to replace the window blinds with matching ones I'd leave it be.
2.) Personally I like ceiling fans, but if you never use it as a fan you might as well. Make sure to stash it in your basement and put it back up before you sell, though. Not all ceiling fixtures are strong enough to take one so show off that yours can.
3.) I think a neutral or lighter color would go better with the white cabinets and blue walls, so stainless.
4.) Does your existing microwave not have a down facing exhaust fan?
5.) I don't think the backsplash would be all that noticable in your kitchen, between the upper cabinets, tight spaces, and single light source I think they'd get lost in the shadows.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Every time the topic comes round people get all spun up, blows me away.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Front loaders are great, especially for people under 6'. I don't know how my 4'9" sister in law does laundry in her top loader.

I've been happy with my LG washer/dryer set I bought 10 years ago. Never had a problem with it, (although it doesn't get much use) except the washer door gasket has a tendency to collect water and will grow mold if you don't clean it and/or let it thoroughly dry every time. I got the bells and whistles variety, although back then that just meant a steam option on the dryer and a delay start for the washer.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I redid the living room floor in my new house with this stuff: https://www.calibamboo.com/geowood-flooring.html

Cost me $3.50 / sq ft about a year ago, seems to have held up fine but I don't have alot of traffic. I had the same worries about engineered wood and water which is why I went with this stuff, the backing feels like a dense plastic and is supposed to be pretty water resistant.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

meatpimp posted:

From what I learned today, the local flooring companies stopped selling bamboo because they had problems with dimensional stability. I've heard that repeatedly. Our application gives the floor a lot of room to move, plus we have it on a high-quality cork underlayment. Again... either way, it's not a good idea for us to run 4-5 times more than what we have now where it would be in several rooms and take the risk of buckling or whatnot.

Take another look at that geowood I linked earlier. It's strand woven bamboo on a 'limestone composite' backing that is supposed to be very stable. It's pricey but very easy to install if you do it as a floating floor. I did it myself and made all my cuts with a chop saw, circular saw and oscillating multi-tool. Even if you have to buy all the tools just for this you'll still end up with thousands of dollars in savings. Took me about 15-20 hours to do 500 sq ft myself, and most of that was walking back and forth to the garage to cut the planks since I didn't want to get any dust in the house.





Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
That company they hired didn't have any right to cross onto your property (let alone with heavy machinery) without your prior approval.

You did they right thing, if you tried complaining to the fence company (who don't have any relationship with you) they will probably tell you to gently caress off (very politely) unless you go so far as to file for damages in small claims court. On the other hand if your neighbors complain to them they are now at risk of not getting paid for the job they did, and will be much more accommodating.

If I hired somebody to do a job knowing they were going to tear up my lawn and then they ended up tearing up my neighbor's too I'd be drat pissed.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Ungrounded switches aren't super bad (most of the old ones never even had the option) but it isn't expensive or hard to ground them when you replace them so I'd do it.

I'm guessing you are right about the subfloor. I'd check the thickness of both layers of ply and make sure the bottom layer is thick enough for your joist spacing. You might consider adding plywood to thicken the floor to the existing linoleum level though, since the loss of height from the carpet/pad removal will make all your doors bottoms higher.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

DrBouvenstein posted:

The weird thing is even after shutting off the cold water, a little bit still dribbled out.

Did you drain all the pipes in the house? You might still have had a lot of water in the pipes above the level of the supply for the faucet.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

DrBouvenstein posted:

It's a single story ranch, and after closing the master I opened up the faucet to relieve all the pressure as much as I could...there wasn't enough pressure in the system to get through the faucet valves, since when nothing was coming out I assumed it was safe to cut the pipe, but as soon as I did water dribbled out...I let it go a while to see if it would ever stop and it didn't look like it was going to, and I was running out of dry towels to keep soaking up the water.

Yeah, it's always a good idea to open all the faucets, shower taps, and flush the toilets even on a single story. Even then you are going to get a cup or two of water dribbling out slowly due to surface tension.

Take any excuse to get gas piped into your house. It'll open up alot more options for heating and cooking, especially if you live somewhere with rising electrical rates.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

toplitzin posted:

Turns out my roof has a hole for the bathroom fan, but the fuckers didn't actually hook it up so my fan is blowing into the insulation.


Gentle breeze blowing
Cross the clean wooden snowfall
A warm damp failure

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

beep-beep car is go posted:

Can I just screw in a bunch of those squeak elimination screws and be done with it?
Has anyone else done this? Do they actually work?
Can I just screw them where the floors squeak, or do I need to secure them to the joists underneath?
Is this a bad idea?

I used these to reduce the squeaking in my living room before I put down my new flooring. It was really bad and only got worse when I pulled up the carpet. I don't have a plywood subfloor so my issues might not apply to you. I found they worked about 75% of the time as long as you put them into a joist. If you missed the joist and just attached them to the subfloor it only got rid of the squeak about 25% of the time, probably because my subfloor was just boards nailed to the joists and they were working their way apart too.

They break off about 1/4" below the surface but do leave a noticeable hole. I didn't really care since I was going to cover up everything anyway, so I didn't bother filling them in.

After a year or so of use I've noticed spots start to squeak again / for the first time, but that may be me using the floor in a different way than anybody else has. I went through about 100 screws to do around 450 sq ft but I only used them where the floor was noisy or noticeably bouncy.





If I get around to someday I'm going to see if I can pocket hole my joists and attack the floor from below :black101:

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I'm guessing the Nevvy Z lives in a hot, humid climate and the pipes are in an unconditioned attic.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
My local one has rolls of it in the isle with the locks & misc. door hardware. Just a length of rubber shaped like a b that you nail the flat part into the trim and the round part compresses against the door to form the seal.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Depending on how motivated the sellers are that can backfire, though. When I bought my house the offer I made included a provision that I would be responsible for the cost of repairs that the inspector found up to $3000, (excluding the chimney liner that needed replacement that we both already knew about). The sellers were from out of state and the house was unocuppied, plus they already had at least one buyer back out last second. I figured this way it gave them some piece of mind and still protected me.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
What about increasing your deposit by whatever their 3 months of rent is? That way if you walk they aren't out any money for losing 3 months being off the market.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Shoot a couple and leave the corpses there as a warning :black101:

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I bought a box of these last year and have been happy with them:

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-LED-474312-2700-Kelvin-Equivalent/dp/B076XRT9Y6/

Much cheaper than using smart bulbs as long as you don't care about doing disco colors, and if you have 2 or more lights on the circuit it's still cheaper even if buy a smart switch to run them.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Motronic posted:

Not sure what the internet has to do with a smart home. My home automation does NOT touch the internet, on purpose. It is largely Honeywell z-wave switches and Home Assistant.

Alot of the vague terminology out there seems to conflate 'smart home' with 'connected home' and alot of the devices are able to do both if you choose to.

I bought Leviton smart switches for a few place in my home (mostly for timed security lighting) and while they only require a wifi network in order to setup the instructions seemed to imply you needed it to be online.

Motronic posted:

You can wire a 3-way compatible dimmer into a 3-way circuit, but the remote switch can't also be a dimmer, just a regular on/off 3-way compatible switch.

Some of the pricier 3 ways can do this if the main switch is smart and the others are type matched remote switches.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Dumb Lowtax posted:

Did someone improperly store our refrigerator?

Yes.

Dumb Lowtax posted:

Does this company owe us a new fridge, and if so how do we actually increase the likelihood of that happening?

Read your service contract and take lots of pictures of the interior. If it were something else you might have to show some 'before' pictures of it's condition; but mold growing in an improperly drained/dried fridge is common enough that they should give you the benefit of the doubt.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Dumb Lowtax posted:

Thanks, doing that now. Come to think of it they likely didn't even remove the ice. Yesterday the icemaker came on, and I heard it and quickly turned it off and dumped the tray. When I dumped it I noticed big chunks of powdery mineral deposits fell out from the bottom like a whole tray had melted there. In the freezer they also left in a loose icepack that had turned black with mold, which I actually picked up in front of them and said "black mold" once I caught a whiff of the inside, but the manager just sheepishly explained how I could clean it. I'll call our main renovation company, who's part of a family business with this company but is hopefully just separated enough from them to not feel called out when I explain and start asking for contract details.

I hope you get some money back to clean/replace the fridge, but there might be a clause in there that says you were responsible for prepping the fridge for transport before they picked it up including making sure it was bone dry so they could close it up for transport. If that were the case, though, somebody should have said something when they pulled out all your frozen food.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Dumb Lowtax posted:

Our contact with them is a short 2-page generic form with blanks, it says nothing whatsoever about liability should anything go wrong (or obligations on either of us to make sure it doesn't), and is mostly about signing over rights to them to any money insurance pays out. What happens now?

(They even made a copy/paste mistake on the form when filling in the part about the work's scope, saying that it includes drying out the place. They did not, someone else had already done so for us, but it's like now they can claim our insurance payout for that.)

Call them and ask what they are going to do to make things right. If you don't like their answer try to at least get your money back. If they have not cashed your check yet put a stop pay on it, or if you paid with a credit card dispute the charge. If they were recommended to you by your renovator talk to him about it, if he gets them alot of referrals he might have more pull. If none of that works stop trying to get even and just get revenge: poo poo all over them on social media (use the pictures of the mold), BBB, local Chamber of Commerce, etc.

Unfortunately unless you had a $3000 spaceship for a fridge it usually isn't worth filing an insurance claim or taking them to court.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Rupert Buttermilk posted:

We actually have a few of those already, and they work great. Right now, though we have a LOT of boxes, so we definitely have to pair (pare?) down first, and then see whatever's left to then likely store in totes, as you mentioned.

Pare, as in paring knife, something which can be used to pare down a pair of pears.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

MetaJew posted:

Finally cut a hole in my roof and installed my range hood that's been sitting in a box for almost a year, probably. We did rigid duct from the roof to the ceiling, but pin pointing the hood to the ceiling with rigid duct seemed too hard.

And then we discover that the "chimney" telescoping pieces of stainless steel are just slightly too long and doesn't fit between the hood and the ceiling. Byaybe a quarter inch.

So now I am debating cutting down the chimney by a small amount or reinstalling the hood maybe an inch lower.



If moving the hood would involve drilling new holes in that tile I know what my decision would be.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
Would the unused holes be visible or covered up by the hood? I supposed you could fill them with caulk either way and they won't show too badly against your white tile. I'd just be concerned that they'd look more noticeable after a few years of grease build up / cleaning cycles.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

knox_harrington posted:

SCREW UPDATE I bought new screwdrivers and came up to the house. On arrival it turns out I've left both the screws and screwdrivers back in the city. FML. I've now bought more pozidrive screws.

Additional screw question: do I need to use any specific type for the outdoor lights? Stainless or anything? I'm quite keen to get them up. The light fittings will just attached to the wood siding.

I used to make fiun of my dad for having reading glasses in every room of the house, now I'm doing the same thing with tape measures.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
If I'm going to wear a bandoleer I'm going to get a real one and stuff it full of torx bits and allen keys and sockets and snickers.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

PremiumSupport posted:

Running data cable along side Romex is something to avoid, but it's unlikely to matter in a home network. If you do get interference the only thing it's likely to do is cut the top speed of that cable run. You may only get 1,000mbps instead of the 10,000mbps some newer equipment is capable of running at, but it's not going to be noticeable for the average home user.

Note however that the NEC requires a separation if you care about being up to code.

Getting shielded Cat6 is supposed to help with this and isn't that much more expensive. The foil is a bit on a pain in the rear end though.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Jaded Burnout posted:

Not to be pedantic but do you mean mesh? It's my understanding that "shielded" refers to a mesh sleeve around the whole bundle of pairs, and "foil" refers to foil wraps around each pair.

Do you get shielded cable with an overall foil wrap? Or cables with just per-pair foil wraps?

I've never worked with Cat 6, just 7a which has both.

The Cat6a I bought almost 2 years ago had both:

https://www.amazon.com/SolidLink-1000ft-Listed-Conductor-Ethernet/dp/B06ZY5ZCZG/

The mesh wasn't too annoying, but peeling back & cutting the stiff foil on each pair was tedious and left lots of nice little prickly spots. I'm still glad I used that instead of Cat5e but it took more than twice as long to terminate each run.

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

Sirotan posted:

That was my first thought but sadly no, it's probably 6' from the house. I'll try to get a photo of it tomorrow when it's not pitch black out to illustrate it's hideousness.

That's close enough to use it as a support for an addition! Turn those lemons into lemonade and build a kickass combination extra bedroom/treefort. It's already half concrete pillar anyway.

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Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell

If you keep barking like that you'll end up at loggerheads with anybody who might go out on a limb for you, then you'll never get that problem rooted out.

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