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Motronic posted:Interior walls don't get insulated for seemingly obvious reasons (they aren't part of the building envelope). Or are you saying they don't insulate in voids of external walls, preferring to use rigid foam or other insulation outside of the structural elements? Edit: misread. I stand by my statements about Japan's somewhat militant traditionalism, though. Magnus Praeda fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 15:50
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Cithen posted:Does anyone have good recommendations/resources for washing machines & dryers? I've heard a lot of people complaining that their new appliances, with all the new eco-friendly models, have problems. For instance, mold build up with side load washers or clothes not drying well. I'd rather have a solid set of machines that will last than one with a bunch of bells and whistles. One of these will probably last long enough to become an heirloom your kids pass down to your grandkids.
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Apr 21, 2016 02:23
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wormil posted:Years ago I bought Kenmore washer and dryer, turns out they were possibly the most common ones ever made and sold by several manufacturers. All the parts are easily replaceable, commonly available, and cheap; plus there are tons of youtube videos on fixing them. There is something to be said for simple. Now if I could only find a refrigerator to match Sadly, thanks to Sears being run into the ground by a crazy Randian, Kenmore appliances kinda suck these days.
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Apr 21, 2016 05:22
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some texas redneck posted:Except Kenmore doesn't make anything at all (and they haven't in decades, if they ever did); the majority of their current lineup is made by Whirlpool and GE (Panasonic, Sanyo, LG, Bosch, and Electrolux also make appearances). They're usually identical or close to identical to the Whirlpool, GE, etc stuff. Fair enough. They're still poo poo (my parents have had three Kenmore dryers in the past ten years). Admittedly, I think that might be that most major appliances are being made as cheaply as possible. They're hard and expensive to repair to such an extent that it's often cheaper just to get a whole new unit.
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Apr 22, 2016 16:01
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Oof. I just bought a house. Then I got to spend $150 at Lowes for new light fixtures and $30 at TJ Maxx for a shower curtain (and liner and "pretty" shower curtain hooks). It's awesome but gently caress...  On the plus side, I also got to spend $100 on a bunch of Kreg stuff to build built-in bookcases. 
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May 10, 2016 04:48
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When I pulled the carpet out of the bedrooms in my house, I just used a pair of lineman's pliers and pulled straight up. Only took about 30 minutes per room.
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Sep 25, 2016 20:10
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Seconding the sectional idea. My current couch is two sectional end pieces (a chaise lounge bit and a regular seat bit) and they're not much harder to move than an overstuffed arm chair. Have you hit up actual furniture stores yet? A high-quality (i.e. not from Walmart or something) futon may also work for you (seriously, there are some really nice ones out there if you go somewhere that doesn't cater to college kids).
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Dec 1, 2016 19:30
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peanut posted:I want kitchen suggestions too. I had the builders add these massive niches (milk carton for scale) and it's finally time to add hardware. The back is drywall but the thin vertical sides are reinforced with proper wood. The white surface is wipeable wallpaper... They're in the kitchen? Depending on how much sunlight they get, you might consider some shelves for fresh herbs.
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Apr 11, 2017 00:31
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I've got a question that I'm hoping someone here will have more knowledge about than me: I have a gate on the side of my house and I am trying to figure out how to latch it more securely than a metal stake dragging on the concrete walk. The issue I'm dealing with is that the latch would have to mount to the corner of the house and my house has vinyl siding (presumably over clapboards, though I've never taken any siding down to actually check my hypothesis) and there's a void behind the corner trim of at least 1/4"-1/2" before you can feel it hit the solid wood corner board behind it. Now how do I securely fasten a latch to that without warping the siding by screwing straight through it or having to take off the whole corner piece to put a backer in behind it (if that's even possible without damaging it)? Arachnamus posted:Brick dust makes for good god rays. I always like shots of a workspace in use. Are you doing a patio or wall or what?
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Jun 1, 2017 22:26
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Leviathan Song posted:Could you drill a hole in the concrete, mount a board to that, and add the latch to the board? That way you're not messing with your siding or attaching the fence directly to the house. I'm not sure what you're suggesting, unfortunately. Are you suggesting just putting in a post next to the house? I could, but I'd have to tear up the walk to do so and it would reduce the width of the opening by at least a couple inches and it's already fairly narrow. peanut posted:post Here's some pics I took of the gate this weekend:     You can see that the metal rod doesn't even connect at the bottom of the gate properly anymore (though it wasn't exactly a secure latching mechanism when it did). As for nudes, how about a handsome man laying on his back seductively?  
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Jun 5, 2017 17:20
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Subjunctive posted:Could you use a latch closure affixed vertically somehow? With a block to hold the latch part above, maybe Actually the gate's pretty close to the wall as is. The gate location is not really a problem. The issue is that I'm not sure how to secure anything to the house through the siding--either the vertical corner board or the horizontal "clapboards" (for lack of a better term). It's vinyl siding and it seems to have about 1/4" of air gap between it and the actual wood of the house. Which means if I did attach anything to it, it would either distort the siding or possibly break it. If it was just wood siding, attaching a gate latch to the house would be literally a five minute project but I've never had to deal with vinyl siding before and don't want to gently caress it up.
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Jun 5, 2017 17:55
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Subjunctive posted:Is that the case? If you mount well into the wood I wouldn't expect it to move much. Maybe cut slightly larger holes in the siding and use small pieces of wood (slices of wide dowel?) as offsets if you don't want it the latch directly resting on the siding itself. It'll move at least 1/4", though, if I tighten down the screws to hold it even a little firmly and that'd be enough of a deflection to cause a noticeable warp in the corner board. I actually did think about cutting an oversize hole and using a backer block of some kind but I'm worried about water ingress behind the siding if I do. I'd have to treat it like a very tiny window or door and figure out a way to add flashing, etc.
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Jun 5, 2017 20:23
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cakesmith handyman posted:Can you drill a hole in the concrete floor/ground for the dragging bolt to drop into? No house damage, secure gate, cheap. I'll have to figure out how to re-secure it to the gate as well (probably just a u-bolt), but this may be the best of limited options. I may see if I can find a slightly thicker dragging bolt/rod to limit the amount of potential deflection at the top of the gate.
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Jun 6, 2017 20:28
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Cut away a small square of the vinyl siding, attach a block of wood into the side of the house, then use flashing/j-channel around the block and finish it out like you would a window or other opening in the siding, with some silicone caulk. Use the block of wood to anchor the latch. So for a block backer you'd treat it like a very small window. I thought that might be the case. Your pipe idea got me thinking, though, that a lag bolt of the right diameter might work even better. I wouldn't have to do any epoxying--just some caulk around it to prevent water ingress.
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Jun 7, 2017 17:31
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life is killing me posted:So our master tub shifts a lot. Noticed this when I saw the caulk line was like 2 inches from the tub. The problem is 1) no idea why the tub is shifting (other than getting in and out) because I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be doing that, 2) how to fix it so it doesn't slide/shift, and 3) the front of the tub is so close to the wall I am not sure how I'll get caulk in there without shifting it backward. Given where the caulk is, I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be shifted backward, and at the same time, I'm also pretty sure the front lip of the tub shouldn't be that close to the wall. It really depends on the tub, but regardless of the kind of tub, it sounds like whatever was fastening it to the tub deck/wall/floor is no longer securing it. Likely (more like definitely), you have serious water ingress behind and beneath the tub. Which means the nails or screws have corroded and broken or pulled out or the wood has rotted and isn't structurally supporting anything anymore. You can pull the tub yourself but it's not an easy job and you'll probably have to do some structural repairs after it's out.
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Oct 11, 2017 20:55
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xsf421 posted:If you sand the floors while you have things in the house, everything will be covered in sawdust. No matter how much you tape and seal rooms, the sawdust gets everywhere. This and it's way harder than it looks to get a good, flat surface. If you pause even just a bit too long in one spot (like when turning around, for example), you'll create a noticeable divot in the floor. Finishing the floor yourself, whether it's with varnish or something else, is totally doable, though. So you could just have a pro do the sanding and then do the finish yourself and save some money that way.
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Nov 30, 2017 01:29
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Insulation question: is it possible to insulate air ducts from the inside? My duct work runs through an uninsulated crawlspace and I think I could keep a good deal more heat coming up into the house and not radiating out into the crawlspace if the ducts themselves were insulated. Unfortunately, there is quite literally no way to reach 95% of the ductwork from below--there's a maximum of about 18" between the floor joists and the ground with the exception of a 6'x5' space that used to be a root cellar that currently houses my furnace and water heater. Ideally I would like to insulate between the floor joists but I can't think of a way to do that that doesn't involve either pulling up the floor and insulating from above (expensive and difficult) or digging out a deeper crawlspace (even more expensive and difficult).
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Dec 12, 2017 19:26
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eddiewalker posted:In my house, I felt way more benefit from hand-spreading duct sealant than I did from trying to box in ductwork with sheet foam. Helping more conditioned air reach its intended destination seemed way more effective than worrying about radiated heat. I was really surprised how much air I could feel escaping out of even small holes. Brilliant! There is, apparently, something called "Aeroseal" that is a duct sealant that's applied to the inside of the ducts. There's a couple places nearby that do it, so I may call one of them and get a quote.
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Dec 12, 2017 21:17
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If you go the attic route, make sure your ceiling joists are able to handle the load. In a lot of older homes, they're undersized for any significant load and you may need to sister additional joists alongside. Example: the ceiling joists in my house are only 2x6, so I'd need to sister in some 2x8s or 2x10s to make use of the attic for storing a heavy dead load like books. As it is, I think the load rating is only about 10lbs/sq. ft. for a dead load (give or take, I didn't bother looking up the actual load tables). On the HVAC question, it's partly going to depend on your climate. Books or clothes aren't going to care much about temperature (hot or cold) but they will care a lot about humidity.
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Dec 26, 2017 22:58
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Jaded Burnout posted:Unless it's Fahrenheit 451. In that case, the Firemen will already be dealing with the book storage problem.
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Dec 26, 2017 23:25
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DaveSauce posted:North Carolina... So moisture is definitely an issue. Personally, I view crawl spaces as terrible storage options for anything moisture-sensitive. Aside from the constant temperature, they have no real upsides. They flood easily and even with a dehumidifier, they are susceptible to damp. The easiest way to find out what size joists you have is to measure them since it sounds like they should be exposed from the top. It's likely that they're at least 2x8s or 2x10s but I don't know what code would have called for in 99 w/r/t ceiling joist sizing in an unfinished attic space and, anyway, the one hard and fast rule about houses is to never assume the builder or previous owner did things correctly. I'd agree that the attic is probably easier to deal with and is unlikely to have any worse issues with humidity than the rest of your house. You might even be able to get away with just using a gable vent fan to make it somewhat bearable to be up there in summer and just let convection from the heated part of the house to keep it from freezing in winter.
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Dec 27, 2017 18:06
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Subjunctive posted:Why do people have cold cellars? I have one, but I don’t really understand why I would want a place that isn’t humidity- or temperature- controlled, but is attached to my basement. It’s too narrow to insulate effectively, I think, but I also feel like I’m missing something. It's where you store your barrels of apples, potatoes, onions, etc. Also old-fashioned canned food (like in glass jars), wine, and beer. Or do what my in-laws do and just use it for Christmas decorations and winter sports gear. The cold/root cellar under my house ended up being where they put the furnace and water heater (presumably some time in the 40s or 50s) but there's still shelves perfectly sized for pint ball jars lining the walls and even a couple empty jars down there.
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Dec 28, 2017 18:12
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peanut posted:Giant manbaby has trouble finding his snacky cakes if they're not immediately visible. I think moving the lowest shelf to above the microwave will improve breakfast and snack capacity. My wife calls this "man-blindness." She can successfully hide things from me by putting them behind other things on the shelf. Somehow, even if I do move the other things, the original thing I was looking for just doesn't quite register to my brain as "hey, fuckstick, it's right there." We have a specific cupboard dedicated to snacks for exactly this reason. I make up for my apparent mental deficiencies by being able to fetch things from tall shelves without resorting to a stepladder.
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Dec 29, 2017 18:02
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H110Hawk posted:How is your jar game? Identifying jar contents? My wife's also into home canning. A jar of cranberry chutney looks remarkably similar to cherry pie filling but is very much not usable for the same purposes. If I buy her a gift and want it to remain a surprise, I just put it on top of the bookshelf in my office.
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Dec 29, 2017 23:27
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H110Hawk posted:Either  Whoosh, apparently.I can open drat near any jar presented to me and for those that do not immediately bend to my will, I have a strap wrench. 
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Dec 30, 2017 01:33
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or whoosh. How good are you at opening jars to complement your reaching high shelves skill.
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Gorson posted:This is fantastic. Thank you. There is a fair amount of weight that can be shed (no pun intended). It has asphalt shingles for siding (yep) and I'd like to replace it with not-dumb siding so this would be the time to rip that all down. It must be several hundred pounds worth. Given the era of construction, you might want to check and make sure those aren't asbestos-laden shingles before you start tearing them off.
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Jan 27, 2018 00:54
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Gorson posted:Worth looking into. AFAIK asbestos shingles and tiles were hard, like slate. These appear to be just standard floppy asphalt shingles. Did they ever combine the two? Huh. I can't say I've ever seen those used like that so I thought you were talking about the hard kind. There were some asphalt roofing shingles that included asbestos (because the 1930s-1950s was basically "put asbestos in EVERYTHING!") but it's less common. Might be worth getting an expert to come look at it to make sure, but you're probably in the clear. I'm looking forward to seeing that garage all spiffed up! The side entry will be great, too.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:53
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Hubis posted:
I've been watching TOH since I was a kid so I've seen all three hosts. Bob Villa's ego was on display every single time he was on screen, Steve Thomas was pretty okay (and my favorite host), and Kevin O'Connor is just sorta meh. I don't think he's inherently punchable but he's definitely a bit overeager. Tommy and Richard are great but the best part of TOH has always been Norm. I was so sad when New Yankee Workshop ended.
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May 10, 2018 22:40
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Enos Cabell posted:You want the Fiskars Deluxe Stand-Up Weeder I was looking at one of these yesterday and Amazon has a flash deal on them today--score! It's gotta be better than crouching down with one of those old-school dandelion diggers.
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May 29, 2018 20:52
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Just spitballing here (since I've never tried it), but what about using actual lath installed vertically against the studs as a shim? You'd still need decently long screws but not stupendously so and it'd bump the wall depth out considerably more than actual drywall shims.
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Aug 29, 2018 23:43
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Or get the vaccine for the Hessian Papilloma Virus. I'm assuming you can get that done at Kaiser Permanente, right?
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Sep 7, 2018 21:15
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BraveUlysses posted:i'm going to install an antenna on the side of my house so I can get decent reception for OTA TV but I'm not sure what kind of fastener I should use through hardie plank siding. Stainless? Stainless should work fine. Anything corrosion resistant, really.
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Sep 25, 2018 21:07
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