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Bioshuffle posted:The wall next to my shower was crumbly to the touch. I scraped away all the problematic area, redid the drywall and painted it and redid the caulking. I made sure to turn on the shower and ensure nothing was leaking from the inside before patching and painting. A few pages back, but see if you can find some Zinsser Gardz to prime it with. It's for priming damaged drywall and prevents the bubbling you're seeing.
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Apr 4, 2021 23:52
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cakesmith handyman posted:Fridge chat: the crappy integrated fridge freezer than came in our 5yr old house is acting up and loads of plastic bits have started cracking, plus the freezer drawer runners are collapsing because they aren't properly filled with foam. So we dragged the Bosch beer fridge in from the garage, the first fridge freezer my wife and I bought nearly 18 years ago. Apart from the freezer drawers that have cracked and broken it's in pretty good condition, better than this contractor grade pos. This thing has been with me since my first dorm room and will be 20 years old in the next couple of months 
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Apr 15, 2021 12:54
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I like my Honeywell Lyric T5. Easy to program and control on the unit or app and hasn't given me any problems in almost 3 years.
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Apr 28, 2021 12:25
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actionjackson posted:Is 42x48 not a standard mirror size? looks like no. I have a crack in mine because I'm a dumbass (a recurring theme). My building is full of fixtures and spacings that are not standard at all, so if you ever need to replace or update something it's really annoying Depending on where and how big the crack is you could possibly cut down the old mirror to remove the cracked area instead of buying a new one.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:29
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Anyone have a specific website they like for appliance parts? Specifically need a control board for Whirlpool Duet dryer, P/N W10111606. My local parts house is closed til Monday and I'd rather just have something ordered than wait until then to see if they have one or not.
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May 1, 2021 16:18
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falz posted:Ebay always worth a look. Good call, found one from what looks like a good seller. Now I get to hang out at my in-laws house this afternoon to dry clothes.
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May 1, 2021 18:23
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FCKGW posted:Went to get paint samples from Sherwin-Williams yesterday and no store in the entirety of SoCal has them. Apparently their factory is in Texas and after the big freeze every pipe there burst. They've routed what little manufacturing capability they have into the most popular paints they make and have nothing to spare. They said they hope to ramp up quick enough before their backstock is emptied. The problem isn't an SW plant in Texas, it's raw materials manufacturers/refiners in Texas who got all hosed up from the freeze and supply manufacturers across the paint industry and related categories like caulks and sealants. It's going to be a mess for a while.
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May 2, 2021 20:24
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Got a plumbing company coming out Monday morning to give me a quote on replacing my 50gal natural gas water heater. The water heater is working fine and no leaks but significant corrosion has appeared on and around the nipples on top and this thing is 18 years old so I figure it's time. I'll ask about brand and model they'll use, and the existing heater is setting on the floor which I understand is a no-go these days so I'm going to have the new one installed on a raised stand. Anything else to go over with them or ask up front?
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May 15, 2021 02:57
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I'm not opposed to the idea if it makes sense and a tiny bit of extra space in the corner of my garage wouldn't hurt, but I really don't know much about them beyond the general idea of heating water on demand vs storing a bunch of hot water at all times Seeing as I have the luxury of this not being an emergency replacement I guess it's at least worth looking into Final Blog Entry fucked around with this message at 03:30 on May 15, 2021 |
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May 15, 2021 03:24
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I now have a new water heater, a water softener, and a few thousand less dollars. Feels good, that 18 year old water heater was making me nervous and we have pretty drat hard water so hopefully that's a nice quality of life improvement.
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Jun 9, 2021 17:07
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Might be worth checking with USAA first, it might be one of those things they don't do for lowly dependents like myself but will do for active duty if the vacancy is due to orders taking you elsewhere. Or even if they don't write the policy themselves they will go through other underwriters for some stuff. Years back when FL got hit with a shitload of storms USAA stopped writing new policies in the state bit still would do them for active duty members. When I got renters insurance through USAA several years ago I was able to get the policy through USAA but it was written by someone else. I made my payments to USAA and dealt with their customer service though which is always nice and convenient since I use them for everything I can.
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Jun 17, 2021 19:09
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My next door neighbor had it done earlier this year on his roof. It looks a lot better, but that would be due to the tons of bleach or chlorine they cleaned it with first. His roof has to be nearing 20 years old which is pushing it here in FL, so I'm not sure what he thinks he will get out of it now. I don't blame him for trying to put off a $20k reroof though.
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Jun 21, 2021 18:03
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You can hit the subfloor with a coat of shellac primer to help block the odor
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Jun 22, 2021 01:29
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Vim Fuego posted:There is drywall sealing primer: https://www.kilz.com/primer/kilz-drywall-pva-primer PVA's are decent economical drywall sealers under a flat or matte topcoat. Its sheen holdout sucks though, so if it's being topcoated with anything eggshell/satin or higher in sheen then I'd recommend a better primer to give you full and even sheen development. I've seen a lot of streaky satins and semiglosses over new drywall + PVA even with two full topcoats.
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Jul 4, 2021 00:56
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SW Cashmere Low Lustre is pretty much a satin with a fancy-pants name. I'd spend a few more bucks for a better primer, personally. If you're shopping Lowe's they ought to have Zinsser Bullseye 123 which would be a good choice. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zinsser-Bu...8-fl-oz/3439970
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Jul 4, 2021 02:07
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Do you use the electrical to backflush the water lines or is it the other way around?
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Jul 7, 2021 13:11
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I've got a GE top load washer, model GTWN4250D1WS if it matters. It works well but has gotten loud as poo poo on spin cycles lately. Some light research seems to suggest it's the bearing to blame and I ought to replace that. I'm not sure how old the washer is, PO included it with the house when we bought it 3 years ago. I've watched some videos and it certainly seems DIYable, but holy poo poo you have to take the machine down to nothing to get to the bearing. My wife wants a new washer and dryer in the next few years anyways, so do I- Fix this thing, either attempt myself or call my appliance guy? -or- Deal with the noise and wait for this thing to crap out and just get a new washer when it does?
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Jul 10, 2021 00:51
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I'd vote for some kind of surface contamination that prevented it from adhering and curing properly. Is the paint consistently like that everywhere you painted or just certain areas? I see something like that fairly commonly on doors and door casings right around the handles and locksets where the surfaces get touched a lot. Oils from our hands are pretty destructive to standard latex paint, especially before it's fully cured (up to a month or so), so if those are the bad areas the surface either wasn't cleaned well first, the paint was touched/handled too much while fresh, or both. If it's everywhere it could still be surface contamination if someone has been cleaning the woodwork previously with something that leaves a residue. Latex over oil is a possibility, but the latex ought to still cure properly and it would just come off easily with a fingernail. Another possibility is if you did multiple coats without enough dry time in between, leading to the earlier coat(s) being unable to cure out properly. In any case, the answer is the same. Sand/scrape off all the gummy paint until you get to a sound surface. Clean with tsp, simple green, or another mild detergent and wipe down well with clean water. Give the old paint a good scuff sand and wipe off the sanding dust. A quick wipe down with denatured alcohol would help at this point too, if you have it handy, but isn't completely necessary. I'd do this in one area first, repaint, and give it a good 2-3 days to cure a bit to make sure you're in better shape before doing the rest. Depending on the paint you used, an upgrade may help as well. Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane or Ben Moore Advance would be my reccomendations, they're spendy but worth it imo. They both also do well directly over existing oil based paints if you thoroughly clean and scuff it first. Give at least 4-6 hours in between coats and keep peoples hands off the paint as much as possible for a couple of weeks.
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Jul 11, 2021 03:26
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No direct experience with either, but looks like the High Hiding All Purpose is interior/exterior while the Multi-Purpose is interior only. Even if you're only talking about painting the interior sides I'd go with the interior/exterior option since it will likely have a higher level of mildew resistance which may come in to play in that area.
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Jul 12, 2021 00:44
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Gonna trigger all you by saying when I bought by house it had Cat5 jacks in every room (and 6 of them in the upstairs bonus room for some reason), I pushed them all behind the walls and patched the drywall because WiFi suits all my internet and networking needs.
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Aug 4, 2021 16:39
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True, but my wife didn't want to look at all these jacks we don't need and there's never been a reason in the three years we've been here that I would have wanted them back. Plus the wires are all still run and my drywall repair skills aren't to the level that I couldn't locate them and use them if I wanted.
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Aug 4, 2021 16:50
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D-Pad posted:I saw some photos on FB of some cool concrete staining for outdoor patios. How well does that hold up in the weather and what kind of ballpark are we talking to have somebody do it? We just have a big concrete block for a backyard deck and recently put a ton of money into the rest of the outside and this would go well with it. Got a picture of what you're talking about? Decorative concrete coatings are a quagmire of specialty products, small local manufacturers, and contractors who all have their own preferred products and techniques. Best bet would be to talk to some people who specialize in it, show them pictures of what you want, and look at pictures of their work. Based on what they're doing/using they can guide you on maintenance and service life, a lot of those systems just need a fresh coat of appropriate concrete sealer every few years to keep them from wearing or breaking down. Depending on the technique and level of prep needed, you may be anywhere from $4-8/sqft or so.
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Aug 24, 2021 12:45
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So that looks like an acid stain, although it could be a waterbased semitransparent stain. With acid stains they basically flood the surface and the stain reacts with the natural variations in the concrete's mineral composition giving you that mottled effect. Then they remove the excess, neutralize the acid, and apply a sealer. The effect and pattern you get what you get and the applicator has no control on how the pattern will develop. A patch will very much show through as the stain will develop differently on the concrete that was mixed and applied separately. A waterbased semitransparent stain can give a similar effect, but its put down with a pump-up sprayer and the effect/color depth/pattern is achieved by how the person applies it. It's applied heavier, lighter, diluted, layer different colors, etc to get the variations in the stain, and then also sealed with a clear concrete sealer. Someone who knows what they're doing may be able to make it as consistent as possible on the different surfaces but would come down to a bit of skill. Either one is definitely something to meet with folks who specialize in it and check out their portfolio of previous jobs. Make note of whatever clear coat they use so you can keep up with it and reapply as needed or call them out to reseal it every few years or so and they can last a good long time.
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Aug 24, 2021 16:24
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Paul MaudDib posted:My screens don't fit right and when I open up the windows my house gets swarmed with flies. If the screens are bowed in the middle then it just sounds like someone had the screen pulled too tight when they splined it into the frame. Those center braces should only be needed for really large screens and even then they should be largely avoidable. Is it the window frames or the screen frames that aren't square? If it's the screen frames I'd be on the screen company to remake them properly, if it's the window frame I guess that's a different problem all together.
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Sep 3, 2021 16:14
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Stains like minwax that you would use on furniture, trim, doors, cabinets, etc. need a clear coat like polyurethane to seal and protect. Exterior stains made for decks, siding, fences, etc. by and large do not need a separate sealer and in many cases putting one over it may be a real bad idea. If you look at data sheets for most water- or oil-based semitransparent or clear house/siding/deck stains and sealers it'll say something like "apply additional coat(s) after 4 hours and before 7 days". That's because once you get past that recoat window the stain is cured to the point that the wood is sealed and won't even accept another coat of the same product. Guess what happens when you try to apply a clear sealer over a product that's made to be water repellent and bead water. A lot of the latex solid color exterior stains are really more like thin exterior paint than anything else. Yeah they'll penetrate bare wood, but they're not particular about adding another coat any time and can often be used over existing paint. They don't need a separate sealer either and using one just makes your life more difficult when you need to freshen it up in a few years.
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Sep 6, 2021 00:37
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NomNomNom posted:Getting a new concrete driveway and patio, contractor offers and recommends an acrylic sealer. Easy upsell for them or actually worthwhile? Maybe worthwhile, depending on what they're actually talking about applying. "Acrylic sealer" is kind of vague. If anything, a silane or siloxane water repellent would be what I'd use. They completely penetrate, aren't film-building, and won't alter the color or appearance of the concrete. They would help keep the concrete cleaner from mildew/algae growth and easier to clean when you do need to break out the pressure washer. If applicable to your region, they supposedly protect against deicing salts and ice damage, but I'm a Floridian who can't speak to that personally. Keep in mind too that most any exterior clear sealer or water repellent will have a lifespan of anywhere from 1-4 years depending on the product, application, exposure, and traffic. Unless you're going to keep up with redoing it as needed, it's probably not worth doing as a one-time deal when it's poured.
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Sep 14, 2021 01:10
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There's nothing routine about removing wallpaper, unfortunately. You never know what you're getting into until you try and having been painted over, possibly multiple times, isn't going to help. There's always option 3- hang 1/4" drywall over it all and start over on that
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Sep 16, 2021 13:03
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tater_salad posted:I'll be getting glass block windows in december so that's nice. All of my bathrooms only have glass block windows and I love them. All the natural light, all the privacy, and that much less money to spend whenever I get around to putting in more energy efficient and impact resistant windows throughout the house.
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Sep 30, 2021 21:30
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Yeah 22 years is getting on in age for asphalt shingle in Florida but not holyshit old. We just replaced our 18 year old roof here in Florida, no leaks but the granule loss was getting really bad and we wanted to be somewhat proactive with it. Ended up with a decent amount of decking and subfascia that needed replacing. All the homes in my neighborhood are around 18-20 years old at this point and there are usually one or two roofs a month being replaced around the neighborhood.
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Oct 2, 2021 18:35
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Oh yeah, mine definitely ended up being more due than we orginally thought when we decided to replace it. I'm by no means a roof expert and that's the only one I've ever had done myself, but just from friends, family, and working around builders and contractors for work it seems like some level of plywood replacement is going to be involved in any shingle roof replacement around here. I think they allotted for 10 sheets of plywood in their base price and ended up at 20 sheets or something. I'm seeing all the builders using OSB now for the roof instead of plywood, is that going to work out bad for folks down the line?
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Oct 2, 2021 19:13
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I kinda miss working at a local hardware store in a college town. So many rekeys when semesters ended, there's something kinda zen and satisfying about just sitting down with a big old sack of locksets a landlord dropped off and taking them apart and putting them back together, and usually having to key them to a master key as well.
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Oct 18, 2021 20:34
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DrBouvenstein posted:Is that even code-complaint? Like...I do believe there is PVC rated for incoming/potable water, but are those they? Or is it just "drain-rated" PVC that got tacked on the end of the existing pipe? Looks like cpvc so I think its right material and just weird execution
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Oct 29, 2021 00:42
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brugroffil posted:They also have access to a little bit better stuff than you'd get at Lowes Depot through contractor supply houses, right? That's what the plumber who did mine said at least, they put in a Rheem Commercial model. Also check for rebates through your utility company if replacing a water heater. I've got $350 coming from my gas utility for replacing tanked gas with tanked gas.
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Nov 6, 2021 03:35
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Goddamnit. Just spent an hour too long installing a smart thermostat on my upstairs unit. Couldn't figure out what I had hosed up with connecting the C wire on each end and why I wasn't getting power to the new tstat. Finally figured out there's a shutoff switch for the air handler cover, which I hadn't put back on yet. Figured it out when I popped the cover off the main unit air handler to double check how I had connected that one, and then walked by that tstat and noticed it was off. I guarantee I did this exact same thing when I installed the other one three years ago and forgot in the meantime.
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Nov 20, 2021 18:46
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 Yep, guess that would be why my lawnmower wouldn't steer anymore
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Dec 11, 2021 22:49
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So much for my master plan to register an extended warranty on devmd01's new disposal 
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Dec 13, 2021 23:41
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I'd imagine there could be some suspicion by the IRS that you're just under reporting your rental income to avoid taxes as well in that scenario.
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Jan 15, 2022 02:03
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Hughlander posted:There's 4 overhead garage fixtures (Each fixture has 2 narrow fluorescent bulbs) in my garage. Over the past 2-3 years all but one of them have lost all their bulbs (The one closest to the house door is still working.) I changed the bulbs in the one next furthest away but the light didn't come on. What am I looking at? Bad ballasts? I would try swapping them to direct wire LED. I removed the ballasts in my garage and direct wired these GE LED tubes. They're great, brighter, more efficient, and I'll never change a ballast again. If you're reasonably capable with electrical it's easy.
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Jan 29, 2022 03:22
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My dark shower tile would show a lot of hard water spots and streaking before we got our water softener but it doesn't seem to be a problem for regular dirt/grime/etc
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Mar 5, 2022 15:10
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TheBeardedCrazy posted:Also related to this, any paint sprayer recommendations? I don't have a compressor but I was thinking about getting one to have for future tool capability. Just want to save myself from having to paint a bunch of spindles by hand for now but would probably use it to paint rooms and for finishing woodworking projects later if able For woodworking and fine finishing you would be best served with an HVLP sprayer, these usually run off of turbines as opposed to traditional compressors since they need high CFM but low pressure. I'm only versed in the professional Graco and CapSpray units which are probably way more machine and money than you need so I can't really recommend any specific HVLP units. An HVLP is definitely not what you want for painting a room though. Better option if you want more of a jack of all trades would be a small airless, the Graco Magnum sprayers are decent for homeowners and occasional use. If you use Graco's Fine Finish Low Pressure tips in a small fan and orifice size you can do some decent wood finishing with a little practice and technique, although it won't be as nice as with an HVLP.
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Mar 9, 2022 16:39
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