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Slavvy posted:You need a different warrant place. I won't be going to the same place next time... Got a new windscreen last week and ordered sway bar bits and whatnot. Chucked the sway bar back on tonight with shiny new links and brackets (which will remain shiny in my garage, not attached to anything for the next 6 months) and did the tie rod and relay rod ends. I'm not convinced there was anything wrong with the tie rod ends but the WOF sheet says "Excessive play" so may as well replace them, and the relay rod ends also because a) it's unclear whether the mechanic would differentiate between the tie rod and relay rod and b) the first tie rod end kit I found came with both. Need an alignment probably but WOF'd again   Anti-seize EVERYTHING  My gearbox (like presumably all H55Fs) has a leak between the transfer case and the gearbox where all the oil migrates from one to the other then starts leaking out. I bought a hose that connects the filler bungs of both to allow the oil levels to even out between them. It's maybe a bit long. I'm not sure how well it will work with the way I've had to route it.  
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Dec 13, 2016 09:58
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It turns out the gearbox bypass hose just has a push in barb fitting with no locking at all, so I shortened it to get a better flat/straight path from bung to bung Also tested the flex with the sway bar attached and it's still able to get up on my half metre high front porch without lifting any wheels  Probably good enough but it's come off anyway, it's annoying breaking the brackets & makes zero difference on the road. Hope to give it a good workout on the east coast next week now.
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Dec 15, 2016 01:09
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gimpsuitjones posted:My gearbox (like presumably all H55Fs) has a leak between the transfer case and the gearbox where all the oil migrates from one to the other then starts leaking out. Great, another thing to worry about. I don't think I've seen any leakage on mine.
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Dec 15, 2016 05:18
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I don't know if that solution is ideal because the transfer case oil 'full' level is a lot lower than the gearbox'. So you'll end up with an over-full transfer case (probably not a biggie) and an underfull gearbox (probably bad). But I'll defer to people who know more about muddy things on the matter.
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Dec 15, 2016 06:24
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The oil leak goes tfer case - gearbox so when the gearbox gets overfull it runs back down to the tfer case. In theory.
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Dec 15, 2016 06:45
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gimpsuitjones posted:The oil leak goes tfer case - gearbox so when the gearbox gets overfull it runs back down to the tfer case. In theory. Oh  I'm being informed by my experience with the gloriously terrible KUN26 where the box leaks into the spacer cavity between it and the transfer.
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Dec 15, 2016 06:56
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Man the 2016 Hilux sucks too. We've had one of ours have to go back with a dodgy transfer case actuator switch and others have had problems with becoming very difficult to shift out of gear Today is 1 year since I bought a Landcruiser! Drove to the East Coast a couple of days ago to go hunting but the river decided to rise rapidly (after I checked the levels at home) and stayed too high to cross safely, so I came home after shooting some rabbits in the riverbed. Back to about 10.6L/100km now for highway driving since adjusting the fuel.  boooo     Truck went great for as far up the river as I could go. Noticed on the highway that the temp gauge was getting quite high when uphill or into strong headwinds, have never really noticed much movement in it previously - perhaps the ARB bar blocks the airflow? Was hot weather also. Anyway decided to pull out the air conditioning condenser since the aircon doesn't work and I don't really want it, and the condenser blocks some airflow to the radiator. Pulled the whole lot out including idle up VSV, compressor, etc - just the stuff under the dash remains.  Found a leak in the radiator core. There's also the beginnings of a weep around the bottom hose barb thing so I guess either repairs or a new radiator are in my future.   So much extra space in the engine bay!
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Dec 20, 2016 03:45
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So, to do: -Strip, rust repair and repaint all panels in Toyota 1H5 -fix minor damage to FRP top -new seals for sliding windows in FRP top -Fiberglass windscreen frame and new seals. -Sell PTO winch -build or buy custom rear bar with tyre carrier to take the weight off the back door & add hi lift jacking points -new head unit - need iPhone plug, Bluetooth -new 4" speakers under the dash and find somewhere to install some extra speakers in the back -fix or remove rear window demister and wiper (non functional) -clean up/rustproof/paint chassis -Find 4.11 cable locking diffs or buy Harrop-Eaton E-locker -new rims and 33x10.5R15 BFG AT KO2s -convert to non-boosted clutch master -Electric winch -turbocharge -new bonnet insulator -rewire indicators in ARB bar with better connectors than scotch looks -extend diff breathers -front recovery points New stuff I found this week that needs fixing: -Fix power steering box leak -New shocks (getting some clunking under flex and some leakage) -Radiator & fan clutch At least there's no more gear oil leaking anywhere now! Hose seems to have worked. I think an engine and gearbox rebuild are probably on the cards eventually, and probably before turbocharging.
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Dec 20, 2016 03:57
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The pohutukawa must be blooming around now... man, I miss NZ.
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Dec 20, 2016 05:51
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Well, better than the aussie photos of dead cats. Make wing mirrors out of it.
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Dec 20, 2016 06:11
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Ugh
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Jan 21, 2017 11:22
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Oil level?
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Jan 21, 2017 14:36
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My first suspect would be the sending unit.
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Jan 21, 2017 17:07
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Yeah low oil pressure. It's gone all at once so I think sender too. going to: -change oil and filter again -test pressure once my gauge arrives -replace sender if pressure is ok -???? if pressure isn't ok. New cam bearings? balls gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jan 21, 2017 |
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Jan 21, 2017 22:04
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I thought it was a 12V system and went to sleep safe knowing a voltage regulator had failed. Then I was like, wait, that's pretty  for a 12v system to have a 32v meter.
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Jan 21, 2017 23:48
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Repco sold me the wrong pressure sender gently caress it's annoying when my closest parts shop is in the next town half an hours drive away
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Jan 22, 2017 02:36
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Ryco filters have cool boxes at the moment New sensor in ($109 overnight from Toyota NZ, ugh)  and we're away 
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Jan 24, 2017 05:17
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Got my ignition and front door locks replaced and the rear door cylinder rekeyed to match, because I could start the truck with my house/office key and my keys would fly out of the ignition when taking a mild left hander. Couldn't get the fuel door rekeyed sadly so it's still on the old key, but I discovered that the cable lever for it from inside works; just the fuel door is missing a spring to pop open when you pull the cable. Going to try track one down Getting some worrying rust in some seams around the front door hinge areas, not sure how to tackle it as it seems to be in a seam between welded panels. It looks like someone has had a go at cleaning it up cosmetically with an angle grinder and a rattle can before and I suspect it's a result of the leaking windscreen frame.  Also a lot of paint came off when I gave it a quick pressure wash yesterday; I think it's had a rear end impact at some point (hence why the back doors don't seal right and rattle a lot) and the back door and RR quarter panel have been repainted poorly after it was fixed. This also explains the bog in the RR panel    Can't get a double garage built to store and work on this thing indoors soon enough, got a lot to do on it
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Feb 24, 2017 23:01
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Since there's nothing interesting happening automotively in my life, have a bunch of crappy iPhone photos I've taken at work over the last 2 weeks doing biodiversity monitoring in NZ's back country.            
gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 23:36
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Wow, that's pretty.
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Feb 25, 2017 01:26
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loving south island gets all the good poo poo  That's a lie there's just less people to ruin it.
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Feb 25, 2017 03:23
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Slavvy posted:there's just less people Slavvy posted:the good poo poo That does look amazing. Sounds like a cool job.
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Feb 25, 2017 04:31
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Slavvy posted:loving south island gets all the good poo poo The Coromandel Peninsula isn't anything to sneer at. Good god, I love New Zealand. I've been all over, and that was the only place that made me not want to come home. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coromandel_Peninsula Amazing stone fruit, too.
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Feb 25, 2017 17:54
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sharkytm posted:The Coromandel Peninsula isn't anything to sneer at. Good god, I love New Zealand. I've been all over, and that was the only place that made me not want to come home. Too many Aucklanders holidaying there There are some hidden gems though, this is New Chums beach almost deserted aside from some nerd flying a (thankfully fairly quiet) drone around 
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Feb 26, 2017 20:09
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Slavvy posted:loving south island gets all the good poo poo North gets slightly better weather I guess. South Island is high up my got to list when the kids are old enough to appreciate it. Gonna need a solid few months though.
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Feb 27, 2017 23:26
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Pulled my drivers door apart today to fix the lock, the little arm on the lock cylinder came off the transfer rod thingy so I hadn't been able to lock/unlock it with the key for a couple of days. Locksmith must've not connected it properly when he changed the cylinders. Noticed that my drivers door isn't original to the truck, it's off a dark grey one and has been resprayed to match. Seems like the drivers side has seen quite a bit of damage in the past then. Drilled a hole in the bottom of the door to let water drain better. And found an old 1.5m long bit of coax that wasn't connected to anything but was obviously the radio aerial cable at some point. Considering selling this BJ73 and replacing it with a newer/better condition BJ74 or HZJ73. Problems with this theory include the fact that even a newer or better condition one will still be over 20 years old and likely have all the same problems. Mostly at this point I need to take care of my minor rust before it becomes major, and repaint. And new shocks, radiator, springs, and chuck on a turbo. Not sure if it's worth selling this truck for $5000-6000 and buying an early 90s HZJ73 for ~$20,000. Or instead spending that 15k on this one.
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Mar 19, 2017 08:40
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Jesus christ $20K here will get you a HZJ105! $30K gets you a HDJ100!
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Mar 20, 2017 01:06
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20k here will *nearly* get me a wound back 26 year old HZJ73 with no mods and "170,000" km on the clock https://www.trademe.co.nz/1279053974 ^^ no rise in mileage from 2005-2010 and a decrease in 2004... someone dodging diesel Miles tax. A xxJ100 is ~40k here. If I had 40k to spend I'd be looking at a pre-interior-facelift VDJ76 but it's out of my budget. Even a flogged out 500,000km HDJ80 is 15-20 grand
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Mar 20, 2017 02:13
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gimpsuitjones posted:So, to do: Driving around today I remembered that I extremely like my truck though and this list isn't too major. I did sell the PTO winch eventually too. And have a spare used radiator that I got for $180 sitting in the garage, which I'll need soon since mine is seeping coolant from multiple places in the core. Need all new shocks and springs too, going to go with EFS no lift "comfort load" springs & efs shocks. Steering box leak seems to have stopped of its own accord
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Mar 20, 2017 02:23
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Even a half decent condition LN106 Hilux is well over $10k here. Don't look at the price for an AE86, you'll poo poo yourself
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Mar 20, 2017 02:26
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Try not to cry too loudly
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Mar 20, 2017 02:42
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gimpsuitjones posted:
There are some a lot cheaper than that. https://trademe.co.nz/1111453975 Still insane for a vehicle that old
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Mar 20, 2017 03:11
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Yeah I'm really not super current with 100 series prices cos I'm not in the market for one so probably I'm 20 grand out on what they cost
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Mar 20, 2017 03:15
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Drive it up to auckland and make an instant $4,000 profit.
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Mar 20, 2017 03:26
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Holy poo poo that's a £5k -£7.5k car in the UK.
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Mar 20, 2017 10:40
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One of the girls at work has a rusty PZJ70. 3 70 series owners in an office of about 80 ppl.  Also took my POS FXGT for a WOF, failed on handbrake and steering rack boot. Extreme PO grot while fixing the handbrake  Repco sold me the wrong part again so it took 3 days to fix the steering rack boot. All legal again and ready to sell to a mate for stuff-all (and help him fix the leaking radiator and severe oil leaks around the distributor/cam cover). Money better spent on the 73
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Mar 24, 2017 01:23
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Radiator in the 73 had seen better days and it wasn't raining so I decided to fit the spare (used) one I picked up a while back so I'd be happier driving long distances without worrying about DESTROYING EVERYTHING  broke my horn removing it, boo  Old rad out. so much space for activities  cool  Finally changed the power steering idler pulley bearing for the right one since it was easily accessible  Had a look at the water pump too, looks like it's been swapped out to an aftermarket one at some point, no obvious leaks or anything so I'm gonna leave it for now, but will grab one to keep on the shelf. There are a couple of different ones for the 3B so now I know which one I need after taking some measurements.  Saw a sweet 77 series down the street while going for a quick drive to run some radiator flush through the new rad  New radiator. full of red coolant. seems to work fine and no visible leaks. excellent. 
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Mar 25, 2017 02:31
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I hope you didn't put that bearing in pounding on the inner race, it usually damages the inner and outer races. Everything else looks great!
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Mar 25, 2017 04:31
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DJ Commie posted:I hope you didn't put that bearing in pounding on the inner race, it usually damages the inner and outer races. Nah that's how I got the old one out though - 10mm socket and sledge. I put the new one in with a big block of wood across the whole thing & then tapped it in the last bit with a big socket on the outer race.
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Mar 25, 2017 04:36
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Those GMB waterpumps your trucks currently got on it are good poo poo- 2nd only to genuine ones IMHO. I got 300,000kms out of my genuine one and my mate got 260K kms out of his GMB and it was 2/3 the cost of a genuine!
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Mar 25, 2017 07:11
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