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Alkydere
Jun 7, 2010
Capitol: A building or complex of buildings in which any legislature meets.
Capital: A city designated as a legislative seat by the government or some other authority, often the city in which the government is located; otherwise the most important city within a country or a subdivision of it.

buglord posted:

Could be worse. You could spend a whole weekend building and tearing apart a new computer because it wonít boot because you thought your GPU only needed one power cable plugged in.

it was my first build though!

Well I am the guy who put the case cover on figuring it was all done...only for the previously working computer to not boot. I figured a wire got bumped or something.

That was an hour ago. I am intensely frustrated this motherbaord doesn't give BIOS beeps or have an LED readout of some kind.

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BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

Very few motherboards these days include a speaker. It's kind of annoying.

Alkydere
Jun 7, 2010
Capitol: A building or complex of buildings in which any legislature meets.
Capital: A city designated as a legislative seat by the government or some other authority, often the city in which the government is located; otherwise the most important city within a country or a subdivision of it.

BIG HEADLINE posted:

Very few motherboards these days include a speaker. It's kind of annoying.

Seriously, it was just used for a status beep. A very, very important beep!

Edit: fiddled with/jiggled wires for the fifteenth time. Maybe it was me unseating and reseating the RAM. Maybe it was me poking the drat wires on the power supply. But it finally loving works again. And I have both monitors. Case is open, the giant power cables looking like guts spilling out...but now I'm terrified to put the damned cover on.

Alkydere fucked around with this message at Jun 22, 2018 around 22:13

Wally Joyner
Jul 8, 2004


Somewhere in this thread I stumbled on a link to a spreadsheet comparing a lot of motherboards and their performance tiers irrc but I'm having trouble digging that up again--does anyone have that handy?

ughhhh
Oct 17, 2012


I recently sent a new gpu back to rma because I thought it was broke. Turned out I just needed to reboot my system several times and magically it started working.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

Wally Joyner posted:

Somewhere in this thread I stumbled on a link to a spreadsheet comparing a lot of motherboards and their performance tiers irrc but I'm having trouble digging that up again--does anyone have that handy?

When in doubt, get the ASRock Extreme4.

Good features, good power delivery, can be had for $130-150 depending on rebates.

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE


Slippery Tilde

Wally Joyner posted:

Somewhere in this thread I stumbled on a link to a spreadsheet comparing a lot of motherboards and their performance tiers irrc but I'm having trouble digging that up again--does anyone have that handy?



(source)

Normally though, in the US and most of Europe there are only really three full-size Z370 boards worth considering - the cheapest one you can find (because you don't care about overclocking, you just want faster RAM), the Asrock Z370 Extreme4 (for most people, who want to overclock a bit or just run an all-core stock turbo on the 8700), and whichever expensive boondoggle you want (because you have more money than sense). The Asrock Z370 Taichi and Asus Maximus X Hero are probably the most common choices from the last category. Gigabyte is unreliable on several points, and I dunno what MSI's selling points are.

There is one thing you can learn from this chart though, and that is that if you want to overclock on an ITX board, the Asrock Fatal1ty ITX/ac is the way to go.

TheFluff fucked around with this message at Jun 22, 2018 around 23:14

Solitair
Feb 18, 2014

I gave it five stars on Goodreads!


I'm looking for a replacement hard drive for my laptop, and debating between a Seagate Barracuda or an HGST Travelstar 5k 1000. I'm leaning toward the former because it's much cheaper, but the description of the Barracuda says it "enables efficient transfer speeds up to 140MB/sec," as opposed to the Travelstar's "Speeds up to 998MB/sec." Am I correct in assuming that these are measuring the same thing, and is running my computer that much slower something to be concerned about?

Wally Joyner
Jul 8, 2004


Thatís pretty much why I was looking for that spreadsheet and what to take away from it. Thanks guys

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004
"Larger than your hat, but quite a bit smaller than the moon" -DNA

Solitair posted:

I'm looking for a replacement hard drive for my laptop, and debating between a Seagate Barracuda or an HGST Travelstar 5k 1000. I'm leaning toward the former because it's much cheaper, but the description of the Barracuda says it "enables efficient transfer speeds up to 140MB/sec," as opposed to the Travelstar's "Speeds up to 998MB/sec." Am I correct in assuming that these are measuring the same thing, and is running my computer that much slower something to be concerned about?

The Travelstar's rating is actually 998 megabits per second, which is ~125 MB/sec. I suspect you'd get pretty similar performance from either drive. Where are you seeing the HGST as more expensive? They both seem to be ~$45 for the 1tb model.

If you're willing to spend a little more money and have a little less space, ssds make everything much, much nicer. The Crucial MX500 is highly recommended and the 500GB model is $110. If space isn't a concern at all (i.e. you use network/cloud/external drives), the 250GB version is only $70.

Keltar
Sep 9, 2011


Might be a thread on it but didn't see it, is there any point to invest in SLI at this point in time or is that pretty much a dead future with a 1080 ti or potential 1180 ti if can wait for it the smarter option.

Paul MaudDib
May 2, 2006

"Tell me of your home world, Usul"


Keltar posted:

Might be a thread on it but didn't see it, is there any point to invest in SLI at this point in time or is that pretty much a dead future with a 1080 ti or potential 1180 ti if can wait for it the smarter option.

Generally, unless you need something faster than a 1080 Ti, the best option is to upgrade to a faster card before messing with SLI. It's not good value and it's not a good experience due to bugs and poor performance scaling in many titles.

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I just pretend to be nice.


Lipstick Apathy


Do they have the Asrock Pro4 in the lower section just because it's sub 150W, or is there something else bad about it? It's the one I've been planning on getting but I've been humming and hawing over the past week about whether I wouldn't be better off paying $40 more for the Extreme4 instead. I wasn't planning on overclocking that much but on reflection I've also never had the ability to before, so I might change my mind quickly and I don't wanna be kicking myself for cheaping out.

Solitair
Feb 18, 2014

I gave it five stars on Goodreads!


Stickman posted:

The Travelstar's rating is actually 998 megabits per second, which is ~125 MB/sec. I suspect you'd get pretty similar performance from either drive. Where are you seeing the HGST as more expensive? They both seem to be ~$45 for the 1tb model.

If you're willing to spend a little more money and have a little less space, ssds make everything much, much nicer. The Crucial MX500 is highly recommended and the 500GB model is $110. If space isn't a concern at all (i.e. you use network/cloud/external drives), the 250GB version is only $70.

I was checking Best Buy's store page. After I posted, I found a spare drive at my place, but I'll look into getting a solid state drive if I can afford one.

eames
May 9, 2009



Koramei posted:

Do they have the Asrock Pro4 in the lower section just because it's sub 150W, or is there something else bad about it? It's the one I've been planning on getting but I've been humming and hawing over the past week about whether I wouldn't be better off paying $40 more for the Extreme4 instead. I wasn't planning on overclocking that much but on reflection I've also never had the ability to before, so I might change my mind quickly and I don't wanna be kicking myself for cheaping out.

I would pay extra for the better board.
The VRM headroom not only helps with overclocking but may also enable you to upgrade to a higher core count CPU down the line.

Avalanche
Feb 2, 2007


eames posted:

I would pay extra for the better board.
The VRM headroom not only helps with overclocking but may also enable you to upgrade to a higher core count CPU down the line.

Better mobo typically means better vrms and vrm ambient cooling which is starting to become known to be rather important in overclocking. One of those things most people including myself never even considered until a bunch of German electrical engineering nerds began running into problems with cheap boards:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7BqAjC4ZCc

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE


Slippery Tilde

Koramei posted:

Do they have the Asrock Pro4 in the lower section just because it's sub 150W, or is there something else bad about it? It's the one I've been planning on getting but I've been humming and hawing over the past week about whether I wouldn't be better off paying $40 more for the Extreme4 instead. I wasn't planning on overclocking that much but on reflection I've also never had the ability to before, so I might change my mind quickly and I don't wanna be kicking myself for cheaping out.

Itís very hard to buy a bad Z370 board, they all have the same basic set of features just from the chipset itself, and few people need more. If you do need more itís typically because youíbe got some degree of customization or power user stuff going on, and youíll know what youíre looking for. That being said, there is one thing that may be worth paying a bit extra for, and thatís CPU power delivery. The 6-cores in particular are quite capable of drawing far more power than theyíre rated for if you let them. At stock settings they wonít use their max rated frequency for more than one core at a time. If you enable a setting usually called ďmulti-core enhancementĒ in the BIOS (on some boards this might even be on by default), that will allow the CPU to boost to its max stock clock speed on all cores at the same time, which means that on a 8700 you might be looking at a sustained power draw at least 25-30% higher than what its stock TDP rating would imply. The power delivery on low end boards usually canít handle that for any extended period of time and you can end up with the VRM thermal throttling itself or even shutting down to protect itself. High thermal loads also wear on some components, capacitors in particular, so the board might end up giving up after a few years.

If youíre overclocking at all, you will also want more power phases than the lowest end boards provide, to get more stable voltages with less ripple, to improve stability of the CPU. An underdimensioned VRM also puts out a bunch of heat when itís heavily loaded, and you donít want that.

So, having explained a bunch of stuff you probably already knew, if you buy an i7 or intend to do any kind of overclocking on an i5, just spend the extra 30-40 bucks on an Extreme4 and save yourself the headache.

TheFluff fucked around with this message at Jun 23, 2018 around 08:53

ronya
Nov 8, 2010

WATERWORLD IS MY FAVOURITE MOVIE AND I DON'T CARE WHO KNOWS IT.

ACTUALLY, THAT'S A LIE I CARE VERY MUCH ABOUT MAKING SURE EVERYONE KNOWS IT.


wow this Event ID 14 nvlddmkm issue just will not stop

at this point I'm actively hoping it's bad ram or something

what do folks do when faced with TDR crashes with no reliable trigger?

e: memtest86+ reveals nothing. I've given up and just hiked the TdrDelay up to 8 seconds. I also picked through Device Manager, revealed disconnected devices and uninstalled everything I could recognize as belonging to my old motherboard. Hope flinging stuff at the wall until it sticks works out

e#2: no dice, still crashing suddenly whilst browsing

ronya fucked around with this message at Jun 23, 2018 around 14:25

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE


Slippery Tilde

Thatís the display driver hanging, isnít it? Overclocked GPU? MSI Afterburnerís OSD? Any WHEA warnings in the event log?

Iíve only had it happen with LuxMark (when running Realbench) and setting TdrDelay 8 fixed that.

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

A Very Useful Person

Fun Shoe

If TheFluff is right and it's video, there's a whole host of video card related things to do. As a generic crashing issue, I always suggest turning off ALL overclocking, including memory XMP, and watching temperatures. Boy howdy though, graphics drivers are often an issue.

Sometimes it's also a good sanity check to boot into linux and see if that is stable.
https://tutorials.ubuntu.com/tutori...tick-on-windows

Social Animal
Nov 1, 2005



Fun Shoe

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - Prime Z370-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.06 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($226.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($197.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card ($479.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($80.81 @ Amazon)
Total: $1523.83

I've been kicking the tire for the past few months but I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger. Not sure if the motherboard is good. Basically I'm going to be doing 1080 gaming with a 144 hz monitor (so I want to make sure I always have my fps up). My biggest thing holding me back is that feeling right when you buy and then a new cpu or gpu comes out. It's irrational I know.

Also is Amazon good for parts? I've only ever bought from Newegg.

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I just pretend to be nice.


Lipstick Apathy

TheFluff posted:

So, having explained a bunch of stuff you probably already knew

I did not thanks a lot for the advice everyone!

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

Social Animal posted:

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - Prime Z370-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.06 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($226.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($197.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card ($479.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($80.81 @ Amazon)
Total: $1523.83

I've been kicking the tire for the past few months but I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger. Not sure if the motherboard is good. Basically I'm going to be doing 1080 gaming with a 144 hz monitor (so I want to make sure I always have my fps up). My biggest thing holding me back is that feeling right when you buy and then a new cpu or gpu comes out. It's irrational I know.

Also is Amazon good for parts? I've only ever bought from Newegg.

Amazon is fine for parts - the only potential hiccup might be if you're getting certain parts (like a monitor) which only honor your warranty if you purchase them from an official reseller, of which Amazon generally is for pretty much everything.

Consider getting an H5 Ultimate over the Hyper 212 EVO for an 8700K. The 212 *technically* can handle what an 8700K can dish out, but an H5 Ultimate will perform better for an extra . It's a larger HSF, so you might have to put the DIMMs in the second and fourth slots - or just pick up a set of Corsair LPX for a few bucks more and not worry about it at all.

Also, consider getting an EVGA G3 PSU or the Seasonic Focus Plus series - the G3s recently got warranty bumps by EVGA - the G3s under 750W now have nine year warranties, and the 750W+ now have *twelve* year warranties. The Seasonics have 10 year warranties across the board, but on the G3s, you need to get the 750W to have the same amount of connections that the Seasonics provide at all SKUs.

-----

Oh, and for those of you with one of them nearby - the 500GB Crucial MX500 (in 2.5" and M.2 2280), is $98.99 at Microcenter B&M stores. It's $109.99 on their website. $62.99 for the 250GB version - I didn't think to see if it was cheaper in-store.

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at Jun 24, 2018 around 01:56

Social Animal
Nov 1, 2005



Fun Shoe

BIG HEADLINE posted:

Amazon is fine for parts - the only potential hiccup might be if you're getting certain parts (like a monitor) which only honor your warranty if you purchase them from an official reseller, of which Amazon generally is for pretty much everything.

Consider getting an H5 Ultimate over the Hyper 212 EVO for an 8700K. The 212 *technically* can handle what an 8700K can dish out, but an H5 Ultimate will perform better for an extra . It's a larger HSF, so you might have to put the DIMMs in the second and fourth slots - or just pick up a set of Corsair LPX for a few bucks more and not worry about it at all.

Perfect I'll add the the cooler and switch the ram out, thanks. Also was thinking about just going full on with a 1080ti, they seem to be going for about $850. Is it overkill? Also pretty much a good time right now to buy a cpu/gpu? I don't mind waiting a couple months since it's not urgent. Like I realize whatever top of the line I get right now will still be good for quite a while I just don't want to miss on a release that includes notable improvements.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

Social Animal posted:

Perfect I'll add the the cooler and switch the ram out, thanks. Also was thinking about just going full on with a 1080ti, they seem to be going for about $850. Is it overkill? Also pretty much a good time right now to buy a cpu/gpu? I don't mind waiting a couple months since it's not urgent. Like I realize whatever top of the line I get right now will still be good for quite a while I just don't want to miss on a release that includes notable improvements.

Don't miss the extra little bit I just added about the PSUs. Also check out the EVGA G1+ - those also got warranty bumps, and they're decent units. Buy whichever has the best price pre-or-post-rebate.

Case in point: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...N82E16817438132

Social Animal posted:

Perfect I'll add the the cooler and switch the ram out, thanks. Also was thinking about just going full on with a 1080ti, they seem to be going for about $850. Is it overkill? Also pretty much a good time right now to buy a cpu/gpu? I don't mind waiting a couple months since it's not urgent. Like I realize whatever top of the line I get right now will still be good for quite a while I just don't want to miss on a release that includes notable improvements.

GPUs are sort of getting back down in price. The 1080Tis which are worth buying are still north of $800 - it's the second-tier and blower-cooler ones which are under $800 at the moment and aren't recommended because of spotty warranty service or if your plan is to ditch the lovely stock cooler and put on an aftermarket HSF unit or dedicated CLC watercooling unit.

It's a much better time to buy a GPU than it was over these past few months, for certain - and a "top tier" card manufacturer (people suspect it's Gigabyte) just sent 300,000 GPUs back to nVidia because of overstocks/returns. There's no way of knowing how nVidia's going to deal with that - but with a glut that big, we might be seeing a LOT of dirt-rear end-cheap cards in a few months time. The *bad* news about that is that they canceled their suspected product reveal for the next-gen in August. So no one really knows *when* nVidia will debut their next GPU - so there's no way of even suggesting you buy an EVGA card since no one can definitively say if you'll be able to use the Step Up program within 90 days.

The current sweet spot is looking to be the 1080 (non-Ti) again. Those are starting to flirt with ~$479 after promo codes and the like. We'll probably have 1070s reliably back below $400 in a few weeks' time, too.

As for whether a 1080Ti is overkill - it really depends on what kind of display you'll be running.

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at Jun 24, 2018 around 02:08

Social Animal
Nov 1, 2005



Fun Shoe

BIG HEADLINE posted:

Don't miss the extra little bit I just added about the PSUs. Also check out the EVGA G1+ - those also got warranty bumps, and they're decent units. Buy whichever has the best price pre-or-post-rebate.

Case in point: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...N82E16817438132


GPUs are sort of getting back down in price. The 1080Tis which are worth buying are still north of $800 - it's the second-tier and blower-cooler ones which are under $800 at the moment and aren't recommended because of spotty warranty service or if your plan is to ditch the lovely stock cooler and put on an aftermarket HSF unit or dedicated CLC watercooling unit.

It's a much better time to buy a GPU than it was over these past few months, for certain - and a "top tier" card manufacturer (people suspect it's Gigabyte) just sent 300,000 GPUs back to nVidia because of overstocks/returns. There's no way of knowing how nVidia's going to deal with that - but with a glut that big, we might be seeing a LOT of dirt-rear end-cheap cards in a few months time. The *bad* news about that is that they canceled their suspected product reveal for the next-gen in August. So no one really knows *when* nVidia will debut their next GPU - so there's no way of even suggesting you buy an EVGA card since no one can definitively say if you'll be able to use the Step Up program within 90 days.

The current sweet spot is looking to be the 1080 (non-Ti) again. Those are starting to flirt with ~$479 after promo codes and the like. We'll probably have 1070s reliably back below $400 in a few weeks' time, too.

As for whether a 1080Ti is overkill - it really depends on what kind of display you'll be running.

Swapped in the G3 definitely worth it and it's not even that much more. Still thinking about GPUs after what you said. I may just upgrade that later then or just do the 1080. I'll think about it today and tomorrow then just order away.

edit: nevermind about the Windows 10 key, got that sorted out.

Social Animal fucked around with this message at Jun 24, 2018 around 04:25

ronya
Nov 8, 2010

WATERWORLD IS MY FAVOURITE MOVIE AND I DON'T CARE WHO KNOWS IT.

ACTUALLY, THAT'S A LIE I CARE VERY MUCH ABOUT MAKING SURE EVERYONE KNOWS IT.


Event ID 14 update:

This was set to Optimal; I set it to "Prefer maximum performance" and the crashing hasn't happened since



Am now trying "Adaptive" to see what happens

e: apparently "Adaptive" means "crash within ten minutes"

I guess I will have to live with full power and blower at max speed until I can figure out what is presumably causing overenthusiastic throttling

ronya fucked around with this message at Jun 24, 2018 around 10:49

Ophidia
Oct 20, 2012


I worked on my setup again, would you guys take another look at it?

  • 1 x be quiet! SILENT BASE 600, Tower-Gehšuse TQXV2008
  • 1 x AMD Ryzen 7 2700, Prozessor HR7A21
  • 1 x ASUS ROG STRIX X470-F GAMING, Mainboard GREARC
  • 1 x ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 STRIX OC GAMING, Grafikkarte JFXV0C09
  • 1 x be quiet! Dark Power Pro P11 550W, PC-Netzteil TN5V2J00
  • 1 x Crucial MX500 500 GB, Solid State Drive IMJMCY
  • 1 x G.Skill DIMM 16 GB DDR4-3200 Kit, Arbeitsspeicher

Here's the link: https://www.alternate.at/html/confi...fd1d16c13dceb01

I'm still not sure if 16 GB RAM is good or if I should go for 32. I'm not a gamer, what kind of setups do 32 GB make sense for?

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

A Very Useful Person

Fun Shoe

You need to use a paired kit of memory. 2x8gb probably. 32 gb is pretty expensive and you can upgrade in the future if you need it. You don't need that fancy gaming motherboard either.

32GB is the sort of thing that you should know if you need. If you do certain types of data workloads or run very high spec virtual machines. If you don't game, the 1060 is overkill as well.

LRADIKAL fucked around with this message at Jun 24, 2018 around 17:14

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

Ophidia posted:

I'm still not sure if 16 GB RAM is good or if I should go for 32. I'm not a gamer, what kind of setups do 32 GB make sense for?

32GB of RAM doesn't make a tremendous amount of sense for gaming at the moment. Higher speed does - specifically for minimum and average FPS. Also, the newer Ryzens perform better with faster memory, but anything over 3200Mhz, and you start to run into diminishing returns. Also, be sure to check the ASUS website for that X470 board. There'll be something on the downloads section called a "QVL sheet." That lists all the RAM ASUS has personally tested in the board and found to work without issue. The second generation Ryzens are way less finicky than the first-gens, but it still makes sense to buy RAM that's on the sheet - even though I'm sure that G.Skill set will be.

Really the only thing 32GB of RAM is good for at the moment is database/VM work and having enough of it to spare that you could make a RAMDisk for notoriously resource-hungry Adobe apps when working with large file sizes. The only time 32GB factors into gaming is when the game's coded poorly and has a memory leak.

Ophidia
Oct 20, 2012


LRADIKAL posted:

You don't need that fancy gaming motherboard either.

Thank you for the hint. What motherboard would you recommend ?

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

A Very Useful Person

Fun Shoe

I don't have a particular board recommendation for you, Ophidia. I believe there are plenty of x350 boards that are cheaper and support Ryzen 2700's.

My turn!

I'm looking at a Fatl1ty X470 mini-itx and I want to cram 3466mhz, 2x8GB RAM in there. The QVL list is pretty crummy for actual availability. I pulled some of the QVL'd high speed memory out into a spreadsheet, but it's pretty low choice overall. Suggestions on non-QVL memory to roll the dice with instead?

Here's what I have so far.
bit.ly/2Kgn35G

Motherboard in question: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...N82E16813157837

Ophidia
Oct 20, 2012


LRADIKAL posted:

You don't need that fancy gaming motherboard either.

I really have no idea which motherboard to choose. I tried to google but I can't really see the difference, so I feel really insecure at choosing one. Could someone help me with this? I agree, I do not need a gaming motherboard, so at first I thought maybe ASUS PRIME X470-PRO - but I really have no idea what the difference is. What is better, for what purposes, etc?

I would be grateful for any advice.

Social Animal
Nov 1, 2005



Fun Shoe

BIG HEADLINE, thanks again for the help. I ordered the parts (everything arrives on Tuesday except the case on Wednesday...) and finally glad I did it. For the GPU I decided to go with a 1070ti, I decided that since Iím sticking to 1080p it should be good enough. I just couldnít justify spending any more.

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LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

A Very Useful Person

Fun Shoe

Ophidia posted:

I really have no idea which motherboard to choose. I tried to google but I can't really see the difference, so I feel really insecure at choosing one. Could someone help me with this? I agree, I do not need a gaming motherboard, so at first I thought maybe ASUS PRIME X470-PRO - but I really have no idea what the difference is. What is better, for what purposes, etc?

I would be grateful for any advice.

The only caveat with a B350 is that older ones may need to be updated to support a 2000 series CPU. The one below claims compatibility out of the box. If they DO need to be updated, AMD has been sending out old chips that allow you to run the firmware update! Not convenient, but not the end of the world either.
https://support.amd.com/en-us/kb-ar...tem-Bootup.aspx

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...N82E16813157761

Here's some more examples of decent, cheaper mobos.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...N82E16813119020
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...N82E16813144080

I know you're in a strange foreign land, so I hope you can make an informed decision from this information.

edit: since you haven't acknowledged RAM discussion, let me be clear: for 16GB of RAM (which should be plenty) make sure you are buying a paired kit like below
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...N82E16820232315

LRADIKAL fucked around with this message at Jun 24, 2018 around 21:39

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