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So my UPS is too small for my new build. Which is a little concerning, as my PSU is 750 watts, the UPS is 685 watts, and when playing Prey the load on the UPS shoots >100% within seconds and causes it to shut down. So I hope I don't also need a larger power supply... Here's the build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.88 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.00 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($135.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($174.58 @ B&H) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card ($724.98 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT - H440 (Matte Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($114.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($103.49 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon) Monitor: ViewSonic - XG2703-GS 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($697.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $2591.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-27 19:43 EDT-0400
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Jun 28, 2017 00:44
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So I bought this fan after watching it on Linus Tech Tips because this was supposed to be one of the most powerful and coolest low-profile fans on the market. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAFB9w2Rh0Y I bought mine for about £15, when I finally got it, there was something a little odd about it.  E: oh gently caress the pic is upside down, I can't change it on imgur anymore. Dammit. After checking out the same fan on GIS, the build, the fan, the wiring all seems to be the real deal...but the label was a little off. If anyone else owns this, can they confirm this is the real fan and not some knockoff I bought by mistake? Junior Jr. fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 03:06
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CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.49 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock Z87M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: Corsair XMS 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($31.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Sandisk Extreme 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($188.99) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($152.97 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX US) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 62205ANHMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($59.50 @ Amazon) Please excuse the old copy/paste part picker info. I built this rig in June of 2013 and updated the RAM and GPU late last year. It's served me well, but i feel like it's definitely been slowing down a bit. It's probably about time to update my CPU and or motherboard, right? i never ended up overclocking my existing CPU, so i probably spent more money than i should when I bought it. I primarily use my computer for storing and watching large movie files. I browse the internet, watch youtube, and do a little gaming here and there. I can hold off a couple of months if necessary. DarkSun6890 fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 03:09
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What country are you in? United States What are you using the system for? WoW mostly and strategy type games. I play fps games on console. I'd really like a super solid 60 fps in World of Warcraft at high settings, ultra if it seems realistic. 60fps with like statecraft 2 as well would be neat-o and max settings. What's your budget? roughly 800 to 1000, but if my goals are met under that groovy. I have a good PSU, case, and 7200 rpm drives. I need to replace cpu, gpu, ram, ssd, and motherboard on this budget. The parts these are replacing are simply to old to matter. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1080p, I'll go 4k someday but not until its cheaper for me. How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Ultra preset at as close to 60fps as possible. I'm trying to see exactly what fundage I need now so I can purchase mid July. Moochewmoo fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 04:26
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DarkSun6890 posted:[It's probably about time to update my CPU and or motherboard, right? i never ended up overclocking my existing CPU... The 4670K e: corrected, see below Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 06:07
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Eletriarnation posted:The 4670K was from a Haswell second revision that specifically was intended to improve overclocking, and is neither all that old nor a slouch. I would try overclocking it if I were in your position, you can probably get a significant increase over stock speed without much effort.  Part of the reason I'm suggesting most people to wait for (at least) Coffee Lake is that...why upgrade from a quad to a quad when you can upgrade from a quad to a hex? If anything, that's the message that we need to send to AMD and Intel. We upgrade when you give us something *new*. Six-core CPUs are by no means ~revolutionary~, but it's definitely a step in the right direction. Don't upgrade for IPC gains - upgrade when what you're upgrading *to* is demonstrably better in physical gains in both present and future. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 06:13
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Eletriarnation posted:The 4670K was from a Haswell second revision that specifically was intended to improve overclocking, and is neither all that old nor a slouch. I would try overclocking it if I were in your position, you can probably get a significant increase over stock speed without much effort. Are you talking about Devil's Canyon? That was the 4690k and 4790k. I think 4670k and 4770k are original Haswell.
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Jun 28, 2017 06:22
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Oh, whoops. I thought there was a 4570K but I must be getting confused with Ivy Bridge. Still, there's nothing to be lost in trying an overclock even if the expectations for regular Haswell wouldn't be as high.
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Jun 28, 2017 06:35
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does anyone make a nice ATX tempered glass paneled mid tower with a vertical GPU mount? Thermaltake makes several vertical mount cases but they often have acrylic panels and look kind of cheap Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 07:14
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So for everyone waiting on the rumored August launch of Coffee Lake, Intel finally decided to put out some new information: https://www.pcgamesn.com/intel/intel-z370-chipset Seems the Z370 chipset is coming in "Q4," which means August is probably not the launch month. They dragged their feet like this with Kaby Lake, which means at the far end of the spectrum, it could be as late as early January ("before Christmas" is quoted in the article) when CL launches. I can't advise anyone who wants a computer *now* to wait that long, but maybe don't spend a small fortune on everything and target the mid-range instead. This is also the first information I've seen more or less 'confirming' the existence of the Z390 for Cannonlake (the chip following Coffee Lake), suggesting that Z370 might be a "cul-de-sac" in regards to CPU upgrades. "Later on in 2018" is also a bit ominous. TL;DR: Coffee Lake probably isn't coming out until the Christmas shopping season, and Cannonlake is now a "sometime in 2018" thing. If you need a new computer now, buy one, but don't go nuts. Fauxtool posted:does anyone make a nice ATX tempered glass paneled mid tower with a vertical GPU mount? Only thing that comes to mind is a Phanteks case with a vertical riser, but I'm getting the impression that you're looking for one of those thin, almost console-style cases. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 08:45
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I'm stuck with a Dell T20 (3.2 Ghz Haswell, proprietary PSU, no physical space for GPU upgrades beyond a 1060) that was never intended to be used a desktop. Based on the MSI comments I am seriously considering a 7700K system even though we're so late in the cycle. Ryzen is good value but immature, a IPC/frequency sidegrade and I don't have much use for more than four — perhaps six — cores at this point. Threadripper is going to be more of the same. 7820X seems to have the best of both worlds but the platform is an expensive mess and the CPU doubles a furnace, not to mention the toothpaste TIM. An delidded/OCed 7700K on Z270 should give me a solid 50% single thread upgrade and should last me until Intel brings 8C/16T to the consumer platforms. 
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Jun 28, 2017 09:57
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no im definitely looking for a standard sized case designed to be used with a pci riser. The only one i see for phanteks is the 900.00 elite
Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 09:58
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Fauxtool posted:no im definitely looking for a standard sized case designed to be used with a pci riser. The only one i see for phanteks is the 900.00 elite Then look into the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv (which isn't their $800 case) and the In Win 303. I can't be much help on the riser, unfortunately. Maybe ask in the GPU thread? The only other thing that springs to mind: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Panoramic-Certified-Computer-CA-1E7-00M1WN-00/dp/B015U7LXO4
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Jun 28, 2017 10:04
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So I got my cooler on, and got in the bios. I saw the ran was running at 2133 so I hit the auto xmp button. Now I cant hit post, its stuck in a reboot loop. I think I should have updated the bios first, what do I do?
underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 11:06 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 10:36
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underage at the vape shop posted:So I got my cooler on, and got in the bios. I saw the ran was running at 2133 so I hit the auto xmp button. Now I cant hit post, its stuck in a reboot loop. I think I should have updated the bios first, what do I do? The board should give you the option to reset with a physical switch - failing that, take the CMOS battery out for a few minutes, drop it back in, and try again. That should clear all BIOS settings and bring you back to stock. If you do take the CMOS battery out, I always take the precaution of disconnecting the ATX leads, and if the board has a manual power button on it, holding that to discharge any latent electricity stored up on the board's capacitors. The hazard isn't from touching the battery housing, but from what else your hands or fingers might brush while you're doing it. Some boards also have it programmed into their logic that after 'x' number of failed POSTs, they auto-reset the CMOS. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 11:05 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 11:03
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BIG HEADLINE posted:The board should give you the option to reset with a physical switch - failing that, take the CMOS battery out for a few minutes, drop it back in, and try again. That should clear all BIOS settings and bring you back to stock. If you do take the CMOS battery out, I always take the precaution of disconnecting the ATX leads, and if the board has a manual power button on it, holding that to discharge any latent electricity stored up on the board's capacitors. The hazard isn't from touching the battery housing, but from what else your hands or fingers might brush while you're doing it. Sweet thanks! Im updating the bios now, is hitting a big red auto xmp button the wrong way to do this? I've never really messed around in the bios beyond selecting boot drives
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Jun 28, 2017 11:07
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Then look into the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv (which isn't their $800 case) and the In Win 303. I can't be much help on the riser, unfortunately. Maybe ask in the GPU thread? neither of those cases have a vertical gpu mount, im not sure you get it. like this https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F85CZ6502&cm_re=vertical_gpu-_-11-133-336-_-Product but more glass
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Jun 28, 2017 11:10
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Fauxtool posted:neither of those cases have a vertical gpu mount, im not sure you get it. http://www.thermaltake.com/products-compare.aspx?id=C_00003049,C_00003048, There's also the View 31 cases. If you want a completely glassed-out case you're looking at something custom-made or boutique-sold. Here's the View 31: http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00003011 BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 11:48
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Moochewmoo posted:What country are you in? United States I believe you're looking at 7600k/1070 at your budget, which would honestly probably be able to run a couple instances of WoW at 1080p, haha. You can drop down to a GTX 1060, which runs pretty much everything at ultra at that resolution. As has been discussed, the biggest problem by a huge margin is video card availability. The Microcenter PCs seem like best bets until buttcoin stops loving with prices. You'd be mothballing your case but you could easily pop your drive in there for extra storage.
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Jun 28, 2017 12:06
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Boxman posted:I believe you're looking at 7600k/1070 at your budget, which would honestly probably be able to run a couple instances of WoW at 1080p, haha. You can drop down to a GTX 1060, which runs pretty much everything at ultra at that resolution. It's been a few months since I last played WoW but I had no problem running at 4K and the 7/10 quality level with my 1060 and overclocked 2500K. If you're only doing 1080p it should work flawlessly with everything maxed out.
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Jun 28, 2017 14:19
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What country are you in? :usa: What are you using the system for? Gaming, with some minor video/audio editing and streaming. What's your budget? $1500 at max. (I want to get a new laptop for my wife, and Toshiba has low-ends at $399. If I can make that, plus the new tower, under 2K then I won't feel guilty.) If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? At most, Audacity, OBS, a low-end video editor and Scrivener. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1080p, decent at 60FPS, good at 30. Ok, so it's literally been 15 years since I've had a tower outside of workplace Dell prebuilds, so I'm rusty. I've mostly been on laptops due to the fact that I move around a lot, but I'm finally deciding to get a tower in preparation for a bunch of new games coming out on PC that my laptop can't really handle. So, when the 4th of July sales pick up, I'm hoping to get a bunch of parts, buy a new standard laptop for my wife at about $400 (we share a gaming computer, but her Toshiba is over a decade old and she needs an upgrade) and make a gaming rig as a project for my well-deserved time off. I can keep this laptop for when I deploy again, but I want something with some permanence. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel i7 CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper212 Motherboard: MSI b250 Memory: Geil - Evo Potenza 16gb 2.4 Storage: Samsung Evo 250GB (I have some spare SATA drives I can use for extra memory, but this is going to be my primary OS/game data drive.) Video Card: EVGA Geforce 1050 4gb Case: Deepcool Tesseract Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon) Monitor: AOC 21.5 75hz 1920x1080 Total Cost before rebates: $1201.13 Please, goons, tear it apart. Or, make your suggestions on where I can min/max my build to hit that sweet spot.
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Jun 28, 2017 16:43
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Holy poo poo. gently caress Ethereum miners. Video card prices are INSANE right now. I picked a bad time to build a PC. Guess I might be waiting even longer. I was planning on a 1060 or maybe a 1070. Both are ridiculous currently.
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Jun 28, 2017 16:57
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I'm trying to decide to wait for etherium to crash and pick up a 1060 or just buy a 1050ti right now. Would a 1050ti be good enough to run GTAV well at 1920x1080? I'm not planning on upgrading my monitors to anything above 1080p any time soon.
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Jun 28, 2017 17:06
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BIG HEADLINE posted:TL;DR: Coffee Lake probably isn't coming out until the Christmas shopping season, and Cannonlake is now a "sometime in 2018" thing. If you need a new computer now, buy one, but don't go nuts. I'm still running an old but salty i5-2500K@4.2 with 8GB RAM but with a 1070 which is probably being bottlenecked by the CPU in some games. Do I wait until Christmas to build a Coffee Lake machine or say gently caress it and build a Ryzen or Kaby Lake rig in August or September? This is the one thing I hate about upgrading when it's finally time to upgrade, there's always something better right around the corner (3-6 months) so I put off upgrading again.
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Jun 28, 2017 18:20
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Boxman posted:I believe you're looking at 7600k/1070 at your budget, which would honestly probably be able to run a couple instances of WoW at 1080p, haha. You can drop down to a GTX 1060, which runs pretty much everything at ultra at that resolution. So I don't live anywhere with access to Microcenter stores. What motherboard and ram do I need with those two? SSD?
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Jun 28, 2017 20:55
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Motherboard would be "something with a Z270 chipset and special features you care about, if any" The usual recommendation for RAM is 16GB of DDR4 in the 2400-3200MHz range depending on what pricing looks like and how much RAM speed affects the games you want to play (if you know). SSDs are their own little rabbit hole of details so they have a separate thread. I'm not actually sure what the best choice for NVMe is from a price:performance+reliability standpoint right now, but that would be a good start when considering options.
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Jun 28, 2017 21:25
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Right now if you want NVMe but don't care to get the fastest, the Intel 600p and WD Black should be considered the best entry-levels from a reliability standpoint. The WD Black is faster, but it's using lower-quality Sandisk NAND, while the 600p is slower but uses higher-quality Intel-made 3D NAND (albeit their first generation stuff). The 960 EVO is still the recommended NVMe drive as it has the best driver and company support behind it. Plextor and Toshiba/OCZ are "iffier" prospects. My recommendation is to go with a 250-500GB NVMe as your boot/priority application drive, and get an SATA-keyed M.2 drive for your board's tandem slot. Best of both worlds, no supplemental wiring needed. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 22:10
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Blinky2099 posted:Following up on this; I'm still getting ~120fps fairly often, and dipping below 100 sometimes. You'd want to update your motherboard BIOS to the latest before you remove your old CPU, as it may need an update to recognize the newer CPU. edit: also make sure your BIOS is configured correctly so your RAM is actually running at 3000, on many boards this won't happen by default. May need to enable XMP or choose the correct XMP profile. Overwatch is one of the games where ram speed makes a difference Col.Kiwi fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 22:36
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I have some hardware issue (consistent in multiple games) where the whole process 'hangs' or feezes for about 2 seconds. The audio keeps going but the screen stops, then continues normally. I assume it's my graphics card. My PSU is old and according to speedfan some of my voltages are wayyyy out of tolerance. So maybe time to get a new PSU?
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Jun 28, 2017 23:00
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Sanctum posted:So maybe time to get a new PSU? Newegg has the Corsair RMx 550W for $69.99 after rebate and the EVGA G3 650W for the same. The only difference between the two is that the Corsair's warrantied for 10 years, while the G3 is covered for seven on every SKU less than 750W. Relevant links: Corsair: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139144&cm_re=Corsair_RMX-_-17-139-144-_-Product EVGA (sale price ends in 8 hours): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438094&cm_re=evga_g3-_-17-438-094-_-Product As for your problem - if the issue isn't manifesting itself during idle/non-strenuous use, it could be one of several things - PSU, video card, RAM...typically with RAM it'd further manifest itself through browser crashes, since browsers use up a deceptively large amount of system memory, so if that isn't happening, you can rule it out or just run the native Windows Memory Diagnostic in lieu of downloading memtest and going through that long-rear end test.
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Jun 28, 2017 23:09
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kind of a strange question, but i would be fine if i had 2x4 GB and 2x8 GB memory sticks in my 4 slot, dual channel motherboard as long as the same size sticks are properly paired in the correct slots (for 24GB total) they would be same brand and frequency of course i should have just eaten the extra cost to get 16GB in the first place but I didn't, but getting another set of 2x4GB just feels like making the same mistake again, even if the difference between 16 total and 24 might not matter until i need new sticks anyways
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Jun 29, 2017 00:23
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RME posted:kind of a strange question, but i would be fine if i had 2x4 GB and 2x8 GB memory sticks in my 4 slot, dual channel motherboard as long as the same size sticks are properly paired in the correct slots (for 24GB total) Yeah, that should work fine. You just generally want to shop for the same timings, speed and voltage for the second set of dimms. I have a scratch and dent dell desktop that came with 4GB but I needed a bunch more so I added 16 for 20GB total. You don't even necessarily need the same brand, it just often makes shopping for exactly the same thing easier.
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Jun 29, 2017 00:32
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NEW NOTICE: Basically every mainboard maker botched their first revision X299 boards' VRM cooling, and most are skewing in excess of 90-100C+ when overclocked. Don't buy a Skylake-X.
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Jun 29, 2017 00:35
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BIG HEADLINE posted:NEW NOTICE: Basically every mainboard maker botched their first revision X299 boards' VRM cooling, and most are skewing in excess of 90-100C+ when overclocked. Don't buy a Skylake-X. Bloody hell, how did they do that? I also wanted to give my thanks to the thread. Got by bits now and assembling.
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Jun 29, 2017 04:05
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Munin posted:Bloody hell, how did they do that? By accelerating Sky-X's release by two months out of panic, which likely rushed AIBs to get product ready. According to derBauer, who's paid to professionally torture computer hardware, claims X299 boards regardless of make or model are putting out dangerous levels of heat not only in the VRMs and MOSFETs (which he took direct readings of 85-110C+ on), but by overtaxing the ATX power cabling to the point where the *cables* can reach 65-85C, which in his estimation is just short of the point where he said he'd be worried about them potentially catching on fire, especially the sleeved cables. And the starting price for Sky-X, with a 7800X, base model X299, and a 4x8GB kit of DDR4-3000 runs you just a shade under or right around $1000. The 7820X ~$200-250 more.  It should also be noted that this professional hardware torturer wasn't even really swinging for the fences - he clocked the chips at 4.6Ghz. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jun 29, 2017 |
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Jun 29, 2017 04:13
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So where can I aggregate these recommendations and look at price stuff? I'm sorry but I really need/appreciate the hand holding. I can put it together but knowing the parts and where to purchase is my barrier.
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Jun 29, 2017 05:53
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Moochewmoo posted:So where can I aggregate these recommendations and look at price stuff? I'm sorry but I really need/appreciate the hand holding. I can put it together but knowing the parts and where to purchase is my barrier. pcpartpicker is what you want. make an account in fill in the info on tax and if you have amazon prime it will give you where to buy the cheapest including shipping and tax
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Jun 29, 2017 06:11
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BIG HEADLINE posted:NEW NOTICE: Basically every mainboard maker botched their first revision X299 boards' VRM cooling, and most are skewing in excess of 90-100C+ when overclocked. Don't buy a Skylake-X. Do you have a quote on that? Anandtech or something similar? I'll put it in the OP then.
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Jun 29, 2017 09:48
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peak debt posted:Do you have a quote on that? Anandtech or something similar? I'll put it in the OP then. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7BqAjC4ZCc
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Jun 29, 2017 10:32
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So Intel's new boards can catch themselves and the CPUs in them on fire. And Vega has shipped already burning, pretty much. They'd probably make a good PC together, you'd just have to keep it in one of those houses firefighters build to practice on.
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Jun 29, 2017 11:27
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