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scrubs season six posted:Did you plug in the 8 pin mobo power connector? This should be the first thing in the OP in big bold beautiful colors.
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Oct 17, 2017 20:40
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Thom P. Tiers posted:This should be the first thing in the OP in big bold beautiful colors. Yes it should.
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Oct 17, 2017 21:00
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I built a PC for my nephew last Christmas and spent way too long fiddling with things and reseating poo poo before I realized it. I blame it on not having put together a PC for 4 years plus IIRC the first mobo I had with the extra 4 pin connector it actually was optional and only recommended if you were OCing or something.
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Oct 17, 2017 21:10
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scrubs season six posted:I built a PC for my nephew last Christmas and spent way too long fiddling with things and reseating poo poo before I realized it. I blame it on not having put together a PC for 4 years plus IIRC the first mobo I had with the extra 4 pin connector it actually was optional and only recommended if you were OCing or something. Yes this was my thinking. Sigh.
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Oct 17, 2017 21:16
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Ardlen posted:The 8700 (non-K) does come with a stock cooler. Well, I'll be! For some reason, I got it in my head that i7's lacked a stock cooler. This changes everything! Now I just need them to come back in stock.  I suppose I can wait for more mATX motherboards to hit the market, too. 
Snuffman fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Oct 17, 2017 |
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Oct 17, 2017 21:21
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My finger is hovering over the big ORDER button, but I wanted to share this with you guys who are certainly more tech-savvy than I to make sure I didn't make any glaring mistakes (like spending three times as much when a Dell Poweredge meets my needs). This is a build for a NAS/Plex server I put together when Easystore hard drives containing WD Reds went on sale a few weeks back. I started looking at used server components, but mostly found a zero-sum game where I could save a lot on one component: CPU, memory, motherboard while having to pay through the nose for the other two (if the parts were even available). For wha it's worth, I live in the U.S. My goals for the build: Under $1000 excluding drives, relatively low power, low noise, low profile (MicroATX or Mini-ITX), IPMI is a HUGE plus, no LEDs or "gamer poo poo". What I'm going to do with it: Store family photos/personal documents/computer backups, transcode 2 - 3 Plex streams simultaneously, run multiple dev environments for work, virtualization, remote photo and video editing (if possible) using Lightroom/Premier respectively, and run a couple VMs. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Xeon E3-1230 V6 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($252.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Supermicro - MBD-X11SSM-F-O Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($186.98 @ Newegg) Memory*: Kingston - ValueRAM 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory*: Kingston - ValueRAM 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital - Red 8TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($261.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital - Red 8TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($261.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital - Red 8TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($261.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - 300W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($40.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Fractal Design - FD-FAN-SSR2-120-BK 66.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($9.39 @ OutletPC) Total: $1596.27 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-17 16:51 EDT-0400 * This will be replaced with 2400MHz DDR4 RAM (ValueRAM KVR24E17S8/8) from another vendor I realize the motherboard may not POST with a Kaby Lake CPU if it ships with the V1 FW, but it certainly seems like people are able to flash the V2 FW via USB over IPMI and get it to work. Stats-wise, it sure smells like overkill at the moment, but I'd like to think this system will serve me for quite awhile. I don't have any experience in the "small server/home workstation" segment and it's been about 10 years since I built my last, game-oriented PC.
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Oct 17, 2017 22:05
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I'm an occasional gamer who's been content with what I can play on my increasingly old mac laptop for a while, but recently I've been getting jealous of my friends playing a whole bunch of exciting-looking windows-only games - this is really just so I can join in with them and get back into 'proper' windows gaming. I'm trying to be realistic about how much I'll use it and how much performance I actually care about, while avoiding penny-pinching for the sake of it and being underwhelmed. Initially, I set a £700 budget and managed to meet it with a similar setup using either a Ryzen 3 1300X or a Pentium G4560 but I think I've been convinced it's worth stretching to £800. Would really appreciate some feedback as I've been out of the loop on this stuff for ages and have never done a full build before. (I also do GIS stuff on the side and it'll be useful to have something to run ArcGIS on - I'm assuming that any decent gaming system will run it OK.) PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£155.94 @ Aria PC) Motherboard: ASRock - H270M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£64.17 @ Amazon UK) Memory: PNY - Anarchy 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£106.88 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£133.13 @ Aria PC) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card (£254.40 @ Aria PC) Case: Cooler Master - MasterBox Lite 3 (Windowless) MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£35.25 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: EVGA - 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£58.95 @ Amazon UK) Total: £808.72 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-17 22:56 BST+0100 Jonnty fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Oct 17, 2017 |
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Oct 17, 2017 22:54
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Zero VGS posted:Just but the Noctua Redux line so you don't have to whine about the color palette sheesh. I give precisely 0 fucks about aesthetics, but it'd be nice if Noctua would finally release the 120x25mm A-series fans they (most recently) showed off at computex this year.
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Oct 17, 2017 23:56
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scrubs season six posted:Did you plug in the 8 pin mobo power connector? Haha I was thinking the same thing as this was the mistake I made when building a PC in 2011 after not having done so in a while. Luckily I think it only took me about half an hour to figure out my mistake.
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Oct 17, 2017 23:59
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The fan on my hyper 212 is starting to go, so I'm looking for a replacement 120mm PWM fan. This is on an i5 3570K, not doing any crazy overclocking and I greatly value silence. Noctua is quite popular, but I see some reviews where people aren't so happy with them as of late. I see lots of praise for Nidec Gentle Typhoons and EK vardars, but those are awfully expensive and have rather poor availability. Any suggestions?
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Oct 18, 2017 01:50
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Corsair ML120s are widely recommended
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Oct 18, 2017 02:08
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SHAQ4PREZ posted:Oh cool, I just assumed Gigabyte still had low failure rates when I bought my Z370 AORUS Ultra Gaming. AORUS is their higher-end. But on their low-to-mid-end offerings, you generally want Rev. A/0 because they generally love to cut corners in later revisions to maximize their profits - ASUS (and to a lesser extent, MSI) doesn't revise their boards that often. SO DEMANDING posted:Any suggestions? Be careful with the ML120 - generally with fans going on HSFs you want some manner of vibration reduction between plastic and metal - the ML Pros have built-in rubber dampeners, but they protrude to the extent that it might screw up the fit on the EVO's fan bracket. Definitely buy it from somewhere you can do a no-hassle return to. Shame Boner posted:My finger is hovering over the big ORDER button, but I wanted to share this with you guys who are certainly more tech-savvy than I to make sure I didn't make any glaring mistakes (like spending three times as much when a Dell Poweredge meets my needs). The C236's main selling point as a server/workstation chipset is that it supports ECC memory. Kingston ValueRAM is definitely good for parent's/grandparent's PC...but I'm not sure if I'd use it in a server that might need flawless uptime. Also, depending on those uptime requirements, I don't think I'd use an 80 Plus Bronze PSU. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 02:55
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BIG HEADLINE posted:The C236's main selling point as a server/workstation chipset is that it supports ECC memory. Kingston ValueRAM is definitely good for parent's/grandparent's PC...but I'm not sure if I'd use it in a server that might need flawless uptime. Thanks for the reply. Supermicro's memory QVL for that board lists mostly Micron chips. It's actually been difficult to impossible to find the memory listed on the QVL. I started hunting down sticks based on component part # and the ValueRAM I was considering uses the D9SRJ chip listed on the QVL. Hell, if you search Newegg right now for an 8GB stick of unbuffered ECC RAM at 2133 or 2400MHz, it's JUST Kingston, Dell, Black Diamond, and a single Samsung stick from a third-party seller. What's the difference between a stick of Crucial RAM and Kingston when they're both using the same chip (serious question)? Is your reservation on the PSU regarding the efficiency per the uptime requirements? I'm going to use Newegg as an example here again, but the only ATX PSUs I could find above bronze in the 300w range are EPS power supplies with a form factor for what looks like rack-mount cases. My own estimate as well as those of a couple PSU sizing calculators suggest that the system might require wattage in the low 200s, so 300 - 350 seems perfect.
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Oct 18, 2017 04:14
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Shame Boner posted:My finger is hovering over the big ORDER button, but I wanted to share this with you guys who are certainly more tech-savvy than I to make sure I didn't make any glaring mistakes (like spending three times as much when a Dell Poweredge meets my needs). This is a build for a NAS/Plex server... You are in fact basically doing exactly what I have in my PowerEdge T20, except I: - bought my hard drives inside of enclosures with a shorter warranty from Best Buy for $180 each - bought 4 used 4GB ECC UDIMMs off of eBay for $17 each (probably not an option for DDR4) I paid $250 for the system itself and there are deals popping up all the time (e: looks like $330 today) to get the T30, its Skylake successor, for only a bit more so you may want to consider it if you're OK with the form factor and odd power supply/number of hard drive bays. I am just able to fit and plug in four 3.5" HDDs, the DVD drive and an SSD after adding a 2-port SATA card. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 05:56
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Eletriarnation posted:You are in fact basically doing exactly what I have in my PowerEdge T20, except I: Yeah, I have a T30 and love it. Really see no reason to spend twice as much on a self built one. Saves time too. I planned to upgrade to 16GB of RAM, but it's honestly been just fine with the 8GB of ECC DDR4 it came with. I just really use it for FreeNAS with Plex and Transmission jails. e: Only problem is that it only holds 4 drives without getting cute. Four is enough for me, but not for a lot of you guys.
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Oct 18, 2017 15:53
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Yeah, the top bay that holds the optical drive and two 3.5" bays has a weird sort of bracket below that is large enough to fit a 3.5" drive at first glance but has screw holes in the wrong places and front panel cables in the way. I wedged a 3.5"->2.5" adapter into it with an SSD so that I could have a 3-disk RAID 5 for long term bulk storage and a fourth disk for a scratch space, but not have to boot off of spinning disk. It's also my understanding that a lot of people's T20s have an option to use the iGPU with a discrete one but I couldn't find it in the EFI. I wanted to keep the option open to do Steam streaming from a VM using VT-d passthrough, so I bought a classic PCI card to add my 2 extra SATA ports and kept the PCIe x16 slots both open. If I actually end up doing it I'll probably have to leave the side off to keep it all cool with the hard drives in there too, but at least the potential is there.
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Oct 18, 2017 16:35
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What would be the best options for silent cooling a 8700K system? Air or liquid? Any specific recommendations for great cooling AND silence?
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Oct 18, 2017 18:03
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FWIW you can order an extra HDD cage (Dell PN KC230) for the T20/T30 and mount it on top of the lower cage to fit 6 drives in there. I used velcro for some extra vibration dampening. Works fine and looks acceptable, I also mounted a slim 120mm fan under the front bezel for extra HDD cooling.
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Oct 18, 2017 18:44
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That's really good to know, I'll look into it. I didn't think about getting a thin fan but also needed more airflow after adding my own hard drives, so my solution was to ziptie in a 92mm right behind the metal front wall. I was also able to find an adapter from modDIY to use a standard power supply with their odd 8 pin motherboard connector; I don't need it yet but figured the chance of wanting to add a >75W GPU was substantial enough to go ahead and order one.
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Oct 18, 2017 19:00
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I'm in the market for a new video card, and I've been eyeing the 1080 Ti. However, it's unavailable from Amazon (and I want to buy it from there cause I've got Amazon monies). Double however, they have regular 1080's available. Googling around, I was trying to find decent comparisons between the vanilla 1080 and Ti, and it seems like there isn't that much of a difference in performance. Is this correct? Is the extra $100-$200 worth the performance boost in the Ti? Maybe that edge is just enough to make it a  and worth the price?
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Oct 18, 2017 19:13
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pliable posted:I'm in the market for a new video card, and I've been eyeing the 1080 Ti. However, it's unavailable from Amazon (and I want to buy it from there cause I've got Amazon monies). Double however, they have regular 1080's available. Is there a a specific model you’re looking for or are you just searching wrong? Why don’t you tell us what you have and your expectations so we can give you decent advice? These are all 1080ti’s on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=1080+ti
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Oct 18, 2017 19:16
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Eletriarnation posted:That's really good to know, I'll look into it. I didn't think about getting a thin fan but also needed more airflow after adding my own hard drives, so my solution was to ziptie in a 92mm right behind the metal front wall. Some people run cards as high as the GTX1070 at 100% power target using a dual SATA power -> PCIe 6-pin connector. I'd advise against that for many reasons, all power gets routed through the MB, the connectors are definitely out of spec but it seems to work. It's really hard to find aftermarket power supplies that are as efficient at idle loads because the Dell unit is 12V-only. The Coolermaster V550 is a direct drop-in, has exceptionally good low power efficiency and still bumped up idle power consumption by 2W. Not that it matters but I originally thought any half-decent PSU would be an upgrade in every aspect.
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Oct 18, 2017 19:23
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VulgarandStupid posted:Is there a a specific model you’re looking for or are you just searching wrong? Why don’t you tell us what you have and your expectations so we can give you decent advice? My bad, I meant cards available around the MSRP price. I don't need or want RGB lighting or ridiculous bells and whistles. I was specifically eyeing the ASUS Turbo 1080 Ti, but that's been unavailable forever now. But I'm mostly wondering if getting a Ti is worth it over the vanilla 1080 (again, if the net performance gain of the Ti over the vanilla 1080 is worth the price) What I currently have is irrelevant, I'm just comparing the vanilla 1080 to the Ti version
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Oct 18, 2017 19:27
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pliable posted:My bad, I meant cards available around the MSRP price. I don't need or want RGB lighting or ridiculous bells and whistles. I was specifically eyeing the ASUS Turbo 1080 Ti, but that's been unavailable forever now. Why is what you have irrelevant? If we know what monitor you have, for example, we can tell you if the extra power of the Ti will do anything for you. There are tons of benchmarks between the 1080 and 1080 Ti, just google them.
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Oct 18, 2017 19:43
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VulgarandStupid posted:Why is what you have irrelevant? If we know what monitor you have, for example, we can tell you if the extra power of the Ti will do anything for you. There are tons of benchmarks between the 1080 and 1080 Ti, just google them. Oh I thought you wanted to know what video card I currently have. It's a 2560x1440 27" monitor, 59Hz, nothing terribly fancy. I'll upgrade to a 144Hz 4K monitor in the future, probably 27-30" ultra wide, but that won't be until at least a year+ from now. I'm looking at userbenchmark.com and videocardbenchmark.net, and they both point to there not being much of a performance boost between the vanilla 1080 and Ti. But reading articles from places like Ars technica about the Ti is like THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO CARD EVAR IT BLOWS EVERYTHING ELSE AWAY!!! Maybe I'm missing something, cause I get conflicting impressions, hence seeking advice here.
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Oct 18, 2017 19:59
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pliable posted:Oh I thought you wanted to know what video card I currently have. It's a 2560x1440 27" monitor, 59Hz, nothing terribly fancy. I'll upgrade to a 144Hz 4K monitor in the future, probably 27-30" ultra wide, but that won't be until at least a year+ from now. Its like 30% better, but since you're only at 60hz, you won't notice it that much. It does seem to be the difference between being mostly over 60FPS and always over 60FPS, though.
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Oct 18, 2017 20:04
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pliable posted:I'm in the market for a new video card, and I've been eyeing the 1080 Ti. However, it's unavailable from Amazon (and I want to buy it from there cause I've got Amazon monies). Double however, they have regular 1080's available. I just upgraded from a 1080 to a 1080ti so perhaps I can shed some light. I use a 1440p monitor and an oculus rift. I see consistent 30-40% gains in FPS and low frametimes with the 1080ti over the 1080. The games I tested were dirt rally, f1 2016, GTA V, and Project CARS. From my perspective the 1080ti is VERY worth the extra cost. It matches (and sometimes bests) the Titan X. With GTA V maxed out at 1440p there were areas where the framerate dipped into the high 30s on the 1080 and now they dip to high 50s. That's very significant. It's the only game I tested that dips below 60. Most games when from low 80s on the 1080 to 110ish FPS with the TI. It can't be understated the huge boost it gives to VR though if that matters, since VR is so demanding. As games get more demanding the TI will also have more staying power. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 20:07
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GutBomb posted:I just upgraded from a 1080 to a 1080ti so perhaps I can shed some light. I use a 1440p monitor and an oculus rift. I see consistent 30-40% gains in FPS and low frametimes with the 1080ti over the 1080. The games I tested were dirt rally, f1 2016, GTA V, and Project CARS. From my perspective the 1080ti is VERY worth the extra cost. It matches (and sometimes bests) the Titan X. This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you much! That definitely sounds like it's worth it. VR will be my next upgrade too (in fact, partly why I want to upgrade my video card is for VR). Looks like I'll just wait for more Turbo Ti's to get in stock. Thanks again! VulgarandStupid posted:Its like 30% better, but since you're only at 60hz, you won't notice it that much. It does seem to be the difference between being mostly over 60FPS and always over 60FPS, though. Yup, that difference is kind of important to me. Totally worth it, then!
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Oct 18, 2017 20:16
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You probably don't want the ASUS Turbo unless you're deaf, a cheap blower cooler on a 250W card is inevitable going to be loud as hell. The cards with quality coolers will usually come with dumb LEDs but you can always turn those off if they're a problem.
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Oct 18, 2017 20:32
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Hey all, starting to plan my next build. I will replace my big Define R4 case with a smaller desktop case next to my PC. I'm aiming for a high-end-ish build (think i7 with GTX 1080) so cooling performance is key! Being used to my Define R4, noise is also a concern. However my desk space is limited and so I'd like a case no more wide than 7-8 inches, and the slimmer the better. I was considering either the Fractal Node 202 or the SilverStone RVZ02, that's as slim as it gets, but the cooling performance concerns me. So I'm looking for suggestions on a slim mITX or mATX case that can host a full size GPU with decent cooling options. Any ideas?
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Oct 18, 2017 20:49
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Olivil posted:Hey all, starting to plan my next build. I will replace my big Define R4 case with a smaller desktop case next to my PC. I'm aiming for a high-end-ish build (think i7 with GTX 1080) so cooling performance is key! Being used to my Define R4, noise is also a concern. However my desk space is limited and so I'd like a case no more wide than 7-8 inches, and the slimmer the better. Why are people against having their PC on the floor now? I don't get the point in having it waste desk space.
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Oct 18, 2017 20:54
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ddogflex posted:Why are people against having their PC on the floor now? I don't get the point in having it waste desk space. You'll probably laugh, but I recently built a nice 1994-era Pentium build for DOS gaming, and having both those cases under my desk is taking way too much space. TOO MANY COMPUTERS
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Oct 18, 2017 21:04
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Olivil posted:Hey all, starting to plan my next build. I will replace my big Define R4 case with a smaller desktop case next to my PC. I'm aiming for a high-end-ish build (think i7 with GTX 1080) so cooling performance is key! Being used to my Define R4, noise is also a concern. However my desk space is limited and so I'd like a case no more wide than 7-8 inches, and the slimmer the better. I've built around the RVZ02 and my i7 6700k got way to hot under synthetic loads. It was super loud too due to being forced to use smaller CPU cooler options.
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Oct 18, 2017 21:11
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Olivil posted:You'll probably laugh, but I recently built a nice 1994-era Pentium build for DOS gaming, and having both those cases under my desk is taking way too much space. Haha, fair enough. At least you have a reason! Back in my late teens I had 3 computers under my desk. It was a huge loving desk tho.
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Oct 18, 2017 21:11
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Rabid Snake posted:I've built around the RVZ02 and my i7 6700k got way to hot under synthetic loads. It was super loud too due to being forced to use smaller CPU cooler options. Yeah that's exactly the kind of thing I'm talking about! I really like the Dr. Zaber Sentry that's supposed to come out to retail early next year (right around when I'm planning to buy) but it's the same deal, will the cooling be sufficient? You even see all those builds with the i7 K (90ish W), usually paired with the Noctua L9i that's reated for 65W and so under load the temps are around 60 over ambiant. Otherwise you can fit a bigger cooler but then you have to either mod the case a little or remove the dust filter, and even then the temps aren't something to write home about. I really don't want to get into underclocking a K chip either, so I was considering a non-K i7 (65? W) for this build. Everything is a compromise, but finding a nice spot between space, cooling and noise is pretty hard, even if you throw money at it. :/
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Oct 18, 2017 21:20
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ddogflex posted:Why are people against having their PC on the floor now? I don't get the point in having it waste desk space.
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Oct 18, 2017 21:29
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Olivil posted:Hey all, starting to plan my next build. I will replace my big Define R4 case with a smaller desktop case next to my PC. I'm aiming for a high-end-ish build (think i7 with GTX 1080) so cooling performance is key! Being used to my Define R4, noise is also a concern. However my desk space is limited and so I'd like a case no more wide than 7-8 inches, and the slimmer the better. Rabid Snake posted:I've built around the RVZ02 and my i7 6700k got way to hot under synthetic loads. It was super loud too due to being forced to use smaller CPU cooler options. The Node 202 has the same problem; I found that both my CPU (7700k) and GPU (980GTX) throttled because there's no way to establish decent airflow through the case. I ended up moving away from the 202 to a Ncase M1, which has been my favorite to build in. I've also got another desktop in a Define Nano S, which is larger but also a fine case. NeuralSpark fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 21:31
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repiv posted:You probably don't want the ASUS Turbo unless you're deaf, a cheap blower cooler on a 250W card is inevitable going to be loud as hell. I wear a headset when I'm on my computer anyway, so it won't be an issue . And it's not a problem per se, but my case has no windows or anything, so getting one with LEDs is just pointless. Plus, my computer sits underneath my desk, where it doesn't get much visibility anyway. Thanks for the heads up, though!Olivil posted:You'll probably laugh, but I recently built a nice 1994-era Pentium build for DOS gaming, and having both those cases under my desk is taking way too much space. No way, this owns! I had a buddy build a DOS PC recently for the very same reason
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Oct 18, 2017 21:34
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Why is RAM so expensive PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor (£379.90 @ Alza) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£51.83 @ CCL Computers) Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£148.86 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£163.20 @ Aria PC) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£153.76 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£99.99 @ Amazon UK) Case: be quiet! - Pure Base 600 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£67.79 @ Aria PC) Total: £1065.33 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-18 22:35 BST+0100 The 8700K is a bit overkill but my 2500K has lasted five years so gently caress it. I actually do enough multitasking I might get value from it. I don't need a full tower and one wouldn't fit which is a bit of a shame as the Pure Base 900 is supposed to be great. Will hang on to my 970 because a 1080 is too much.
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Oct 18, 2017 22:52
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RAM is expensive because a lot more things are using high-density DRAM and NAND, whereas a few years back less people were buying phones with 128GB+ internal storage and phones had 1-2GB of LPDDR in them at most. Samsung's hoarding a lot of their own product for their phones, and Apple gets second dibs. The PC space is seen as a secondary market at best because most people upgrade their computers once every five years or so, while they upgrade their stupid *phones* 1-2 times *per year*. People buying RAM for custom builds aren't just at the bottom of that totem pole, we're a few feet beneath it, down with the worms.
BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Oct 19, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 23:33
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