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Bonobos posted:Do you know how does this chip fare with stock heat sink / cooler, as far as the auto overclocking goes? I’m in a similar situation where I’m debating an AIO for noise / thermals but am leaning towards the stock cooler as I understand it’s pretty good. If there is no point why bother with an AIO? It’s alright as far as stock coolers go but it’s MUCH louder than an AIO and everything ran about 5c warmer than with the 240mm radiator (thus 15c hotter than the 280mm) and never saw anything go above 3.9
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Dec 9, 2018 17:21
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GutBomb posted:I run a 2700x with a 280mm AIO (nzxt kraken x62) and it’s very nice and quiet. I tried with a 240mm AIO (the nzxt kraken x52) and saw higher temps and us less thermal headroom so the stuff AMD put in the CPU to allow it to overclock itself based on its thermal headroom wasn’t able to push it as far as I wanted it to go. It was also louder. I returned the x52 to amazon and exchanged it for an x62 and that was a good decision. Good info. So here is my dilemma. I like both the NZXT Kraken x62 and EVGA CLC 280 a lot (EVGA's stock fans have a scoop in the fan frame which has been tested to bleed airflow and hurt cooling a bit). As of their initial release, both of them run the Asetek Gen 5 pump. The problem with this pump is a flow issue that created hot spots that would cause problems long term. The Corsair H115i Pro, also a 280, has the Asetek Gen 6 pump and dual mag lev fans (whatever I guess). BUT, it has those terrible loving 90 degree plastic joints that join the tubes to the waterblock/cold plate assembly which restricts flow and increases pressure. Also being made of plastic sucks poo poo and is super lame. Both the NZXT Kraken x62 and EVGA CLC 280 I believe have REV 2 releases and I have no idea whether or not they upgraded to the Asetek Gen 6 pump or not in the REV 2 release and I can't find any tear down information and spec sheets don't list the loving pump parts. All I can find is "ASETEK'S LATEST GENERATION PUMP" stamp in the feature bumper on the site. Who ever knows what the gently caress that means, if the graphic was recycled or even updated at all. The Kraken x62 is is considerably more expensive than the EVGA CLC 280 ($35-40 price difference just about) with relatively same performance. I believe the Kraken x62 at 1500RPM just edges out the EVGA CLC 280 by maybe 1 degree Celsius. Of course both smash poo poo at the subway train noise level 2200RPM speeds but that's watever. The Kraken x62 also has better RGB implementation and looks super neat. I would have loved to pair it with the NZXT H500 but the black is out of stock and also doesn't have as good airflow as the Meshify C which is what I audibled into after returning the Focus G unopened. So I'm essentially on the fence until I can find out if NZXT and EVGA upgraded the pumps in their REV 2 releases.
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Dec 9, 2018 17:23
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theSpokeyDokey posted:Good info. If you’re gonna be really nitpicky about this stuff maybe you should just do a custom loop. All of the “problems” you mentioned are super-edge-case stuff that ultimately doesn’t matter.
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Dec 9, 2018 17:28
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Bonobos posted:Do you know how does this chip fare with stock heat sink / cooler, as far as the auto overclocking goes? I’m in a similar situation where I’m debating an AIO for noise / thermals but am leaning towards the stock cooler as I understand it’s pretty good. If there is no point why bother with an AIO? I don't have the specific numbers but when I was researching my AIOs I ran across the information that that Wraith Prism is rated for a lower TPD than the Ryzen 7 2700X pulls in PB2 mode. Here is a great video on Ryzen 7 2700X overclocking to give you an idea on performance and temps with the stock cooler. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZRjoeyz4Z0 Keep in mind, they are using an open air test bench. So putting it in a case is going to raise the temps a bit. I think they mention that fact in the video. theSpokeyDokey fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Dec 9, 2018 |
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Dec 9, 2018 17:28
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GutBomb posted:If you’re gonna be really nitpicky about this stuff maybe you should just do a custom loop. All of the “problems” you mentioned are super-edge-case stuff that ultimately doesn’t matter. I mean they're not really nit-picky, they're legitimate design flaws. Specifically, the 90 degree plastic on the corsair block restricts the water flow down to 1/4 inch which increases the pressure and stresses the pump and can/will cause premature failure. Also, being made of plastic they are more prone to warping from heat. The Asetek gen 5 pumps were confirmed to have flow issues causing hot spots that would also cause permeation in the tubes and premature failure. Also, does PB2 have any sort of customization to the profile? I recall letting PB2 do the work also pulls a stupid rear end amount of voltage. Something like 1.475 when maxing out. Custom OCs allows for stable 4.1 across all cores at 1.2Vish which makes the power draw more efficient and reduces heat considerably, something like 5-10 degrees in most cases. theSpokeyDokey fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Dec 9, 2018 |
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Dec 9, 2018 17:33
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theSpokeyDokey posted:I mean they're not really nit-picky, they're legitimate design flaws. The ultra-vast majority of users have no problems and these things have like, 6 year parts replacement warranties. I wouldn’t worry about it. theSpokeyDokey posted:Also, does PB2 have any sort of customization to the profile? I recall letting PB2 do the work also pulls a stupid rear end amount of voltage. Something like 1.475 when maxing out. AMD engineers have posted about this in the past and have said the voltage spikes are fine and how the system is supposed to work. I’ll trust them over random internet people who prefer to keep voltage down for “reasons”
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Dec 9, 2018 18:09
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theSpokeyDokey posted:Anyone have a Ryzen 7 2700(X) system using and AIO cooler? I got something similar except H400i case Aorus 450m itx 2070 EVGA XC It booted up fine but I still need to do more cable management, and I haven’t checked if the ram goes to 3200 with XMP
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Dec 9, 2018 18:19
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GutBomb posted:The ultra-vast majority of users have no problems and these things have like, 6 year parts replacement warranties. I wouldn’t worry about it. I'll go with the EVGA in this case, good thermal and noise performance at 1500 RPM and EVGA's warranty/customer service is pretty decent to work with. As far as voltage spikes are concerned, achieving a stable OC at lower voltages is just healthier for the lifespan of the CPU but I'll test both ways and see what PB2 and static does. Are you also using XMP for tuning your RAM? What speed is it running at?
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Dec 9, 2018 18:20
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I used to be a zotac fanboy because hey I’m from the same hometown but EVGA’s finishing is really impressive. I also liked STRIX 980ti but man the 2070 EVGA is just plain cool. Also this talk of AIO makes me reconsider my stock cooler and put in a bequiet 240mm AIO. I’m going to replace my CPU in a few years so maybe I should get a new cooler now. But man NZXT’s finishing is amazing, I already liked my fractal for its noise blocking properties but NZXT does have a sleeker look. Sure there’s a tad price premium but it’s like a mature Thermaltake. Do people here ever used thermaltake? I remember they had a fiasco with the silent pc review forums 15 years ago and their early adoption to LEDs made them the lovely 15 year old kiddie gamer brand. I just wished bequiet made a smaller case or better yet itx
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Dec 9, 2018 18:30
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theSpokeyDokey posted:I'll go with the EVGA in this case, good thermal and noise performance at 1500 RPM and EVGA's warranty/customer service is pretty decent to work with. I’m running Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro RAM. The XMP profile for my particular sticks is 3000MHz at 15-17-17-35 1.35v and I’m using those timings but running at 3333MHz and it’s perfectly stable. I tested at 3000 and 3333 and 3333 got me about 70 cinebench points over 3000. This is Hynix C-die RAM, so nothing really special. It’s $144 at Best Buy. A lot cheaper than the ram you have listed in your build.
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Dec 9, 2018 18:40
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Has anyone heard any rumors regarding Ryzen availability? I've had a 2600*om backorder with B&H for two weeks now.
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Dec 9, 2018 19:03
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Got my new system up and running (2700x, 16gb, 1tb SSD) but I have a random issue where when gaming (asscreed Odyssey) the game will freeze and I have to close it. The rest of my computer works fine. I've reinstalled both Uplay and asscreed but it still does it regularly albeit intermittently (10-80 minute window). What programs do I run to make sure it's not hardware? prime95 - 20 minutes no issues memtest - finished first pass but I didn't wait for the other 3 so I'll redo this. The game locks up with a-xmp off (2133mhz), a-xmp 1 (2933mhz), or a-xmp 2 (3200mhz) so I dunno. I think the GPU is fine since I used it for ~95 hours on my previous box. Is there a GPU stress test program I can run?
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Dec 10, 2018 00:55
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Whenever you have graphics-related problems on a new build, always try removing and reseating the GPU. They've gotten so large and heavy in recent years that they can shift. Also, try the Windows Memory Diagnostic. It's by no means as exhaustive as memtest, but I've found it useful for ascertaining if there's a problem (since it doesn't ever elucidate past saying so if it detects one). BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Dec 10, 2018 |
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Dec 10, 2018 01:51
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Also update your BIOS, and make sure your memory is on QVL, I didn’t and am in risk for 3200 DDR4 32gb
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Dec 10, 2018 01:57
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So what's the standard operating procedure for making sure that a given card will fit inside a given case? Basically, I'm upgrading my GPU, and the one I'm upgrading to is longer and thicker. Do I open up the case and measure the space with tape, or is there a better and more fool-proof way?
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Dec 10, 2018 05:14
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enraged_camel posted:So what's the standard operating procedure for making sure that a given card will fit inside a given case? Most AIBs nowadays will provide pretty accurate measurements of their cards, and case makers will (usually) provide a figure for the longest card a specific case of theirs will accommodate. If the case is new enough and there's no information in that regard, it's because the case is big enough to fit all known cards. If the case is EATX compliant, you really don't have to worry at all.
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Dec 10, 2018 05:32
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So, just built a machine for my wife: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mRw4hy GPU is from an older rig. Whenever I try to power on, all the lights on the MOBO and the power switch turn on, the fans start to spin, and then it all shuts down like half a second later, never displaying anything on screen. I've tried swapping out the RAM, Power Supply, and GPU with parts I know work. Even tried running with everything detached aside from CPU+RAM+GPU, then just CPU+RAM no joy. I have a compatible CPU in my PC, but I really don't want to have to go through that hassle. So is there a way to tell if its the MOBO or CPU without doing that? I mean, the lights on the MOBO turn on briefly before the whole thing shuts off, but I feel like that doesn't necessarily mean much of anything. CPU is from Amazon, so may just be lazy and try exchanging it.
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Dec 10, 2018 06:48
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lord_daeloth posted:So, just built a machine for my wife: Have you reseated the CPU?
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Dec 10, 2018 07:04
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BIG HEADLINE posted:...try removing and reseating the GPU. They've gotten so large and heavy in recent years that they can shift. caberham posted:Also update your BIOS, and make sure your memory is on QVL, I didn’t and am in risk for 3200 DDR4 32gb Thanks but turns out that built on overclocking just wasn't working right so I turned it off. I was able to play a solid two hours after disabling it. Guess I'll mess with that when I get some free time which will be never since I got it working normally.
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Dec 10, 2018 07:28
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A few pages ago since this thread moves fast, Switch ram stick positions, instead 1,3 go to 2,4
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Dec 10, 2018 08:06
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VelociBacon posted:Have you reseated the CPU? Yeah. I've reseated everything. Took EVERYTHING out, cable included and started over.
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Dec 10, 2018 13:07
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lord_daeloth posted:Yeah. I've reseated everything. Took EVERYTHING out, cable included and started over. Did you get it fixed yet? Also, do you have a modular power supply? I've seen this happen before with mismatched cables from another modular power supply that ended up being a wrong SATA power connector that fried an SSD. Try booting up and removing the modular cables for your SATA devices.
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Dec 10, 2018 13:36
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theSpokeyDokey posted:Did you get it fixed yet? Not fixed yet, no. It is a modular supply. Currently the only things connected are the 24-pin and 4+4-pin CPU cable. No SATA cables are connected to the MOBO, no SATA power connectors are plugged into anything. The graphics card doesn't need power, so there's nothing connected there. I'm going to have to test by taking the CPU from my rig, aren't I? I'm mildly terrified (maybe unreasonably) that something will go wrong and toast my CPU. Then both me and my wife will be screwed, haha.
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Dec 10, 2018 14:11
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lord_daeloth posted:Not fixed yet, no. I don't know if it is even possible because of how the connectors are chamfered but I would check and make sure your 4+4 pin is actually connected to the correct port on the PSU and make sure it isn't actually the GPU cable (would be obvious though because I think those are 6+2 and not 4+4). However, the issue you are describing is definitely an electrical fault designed to protect your hardware. If it is none of the above I would suspect MOBO or, god help you, CPU. PSU could also just be toast some how. theSpokeyDokey fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Dec 10, 2018 |
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Dec 10, 2018 14:54
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So it's not the discount I wanted, but Newegg's got a Masterpass checkout going for $25 off $200: https://www.newegg.com/promotions/n...mVyaXpvbi5uZXQ= You have to use Masterpass to check out - but you don't need a MasterCard. Masterpass is just MasterCard's dumb idea to have their own PayPal-esque back end. Trying to use the promo code listed at the above link without following the guidelines will result in your order getting bounced.
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Dec 10, 2018 15:15
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theSpokeyDokey posted:I don't know if it is even possible because of how the connectors are chamfered but I would check and make sure your 4+4 pin is actually connected to the correct port on the PSU and make sure it isn't actually the GPU cable (would be obvious though because I think those are 6+2 and not 4+4). The cables are pretty clearly labeled on that PSU, but I did recheck them anyway just to be sure. On the off chance that the PSU was DOA, I did try ripping the PSU out of her current PC. Non-modular, same wattage. So yeah, MOBO or CPU is what I figured, just not sure which I should return first, haha. And with it most likely being an electrical fault, I really don't want to try using my CPU in there to check. Is that an unreasonable fear?
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Dec 10, 2018 15:22
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I got an intel i5-9600 k and a Aorus gaming K3 motherboard - the motherboard supports the 9600k but only after revision 10. The motherboard comes with revision 1 firmware on it. I've tried to find out if it's possible to flash it from a USB but it seems like I'm out of luck there. Can anyone point me to a cheap CPU that I can get in, flash the board with and then put on ebay? Is there an easier route than that?
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Dec 10, 2018 16:48
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lord_daeloth posted:The cables are pretty clearly labeled on that PSU, but I did recheck them anyway just to be sure. On the off chance that the PSU was DOA, I did try ripping the PSU out of her current PC. Non-modular, same wattage. So yeah, MOBO or CPU is what I figured, just not sure which I should return first, haha. And with it most likely being an electrical fault, I really don't want to try using my CPU in there to check. Is that an unreasonable fear? I wouldn't. A bad Mobo could certainly eat a CPU. I would RMA the board or return it DOA. Try the new CPU in the new board and if same, then RMA the CPU as well.
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Dec 10, 2018 18:33
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I think I will finally buy a new system this year during the Boxing Day sales . Given that I'm not really set on what system yet and it will mostly be based on stock availability and discounts I wanted to get a few combination checked to make sure they make sense. Can someone please let me know if there are any parts below which I should change out? Note: I'm in New Zealand, so prices will be weird. I also game at 1080p now but am looking to move to 1440p/high refresh and get a new video card soon. I also need an optical out which explains some of my mobo choices. Consistent components: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($0 @ OutletPC) Already own this Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($0 @ OutletPC) Already own this Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 970 4 GB STRIX Video Card Already own this Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($97.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($0 @ OutletPC) Already own this Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-10 13:13 EST-0500 What is the difference between the V2 and model above of PSU? They are the same price so I guess I would just get the V2. First build choice: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($467.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($169.95 @ Computer Lounge) Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 AORUS ELITE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($353.00 @ Paradigm PCs) Memory: Kingston - Predator 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3333 Memory Total: $989.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-11 07:19 NZDT+1300 Second build choice: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($427.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($169.95 @ Computer Lounge) Motherboard: Asus - PRIME Z370-A II ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($306.00 @ Paradigm PCs) Memory: Kingston - Predator 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3333 Memory Total: $902.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-11 07:21 NZDT+1300 Ryzen option: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($274.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($169.95 @ Computer Lounge) Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($219.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) Memory: Kingston - Predator 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3333 Memory Total: $662.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-11 07:22 NZDT+1300
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Dec 10, 2018 19:23
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theSpokeyDokey posted:I wouldn't. A bad Mobo could certainly eat a CPU. I would RMA the board or return it DOA. Try the new CPU in the new board and if same, then RMA the CPU as well. Too late! Anyway, CPU seems fine, so yeah, doing an RMA on the board. Of course, when I tried to print the shipping label, Newegg crapped its pants and told me a shipping label had already been issued and to contact customer service. I've been sitting at #141 in the queue for 15 minutes now. Nothing is ever easy 
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Dec 10, 2018 19:36
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Can you do raid configuration with two different harddrives? I have 2 tb Western digitals but one is black version(higher rpm) and blue version.
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Dec 10, 2018 22:05
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Ulio posted:Can you do raid configuration with two different harddrives? I have 2 tb Western digitals but one is black version(higher rpm) and blue version. You can do some sort of soft raid with essentially any drive combination. It's generally pointless and not a good idea. What are you trying to do though?
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Dec 10, 2018 23:33
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I'm laying out the pros and cons of using cloud GPUs vs. GPU workstations vs. an on-prem GPU server. For training machine learning models. I'll probably post again for feedback on a build if we go with one of the on-prem versions, but for now I'm just wondering: how much heat will a workstation with dual GTX 1080Tis put out? What are the chances that two or three such workstations negatively impact the comfort of our office? Of course that depends on lots of factors but just trying to get a rough sense if it would be like adding a small space heater or something less drastic. It's hard to search for since everything naturally focuses on the temperatures on the card itself.
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Dec 10, 2018 23:44
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The 1080Tis are 250W each and google tells me an average space heater is 1500W so three workstations with dual 1080Tis would be roughly equivalent. It might be slightly less because from my personal experience training wouldn't peg the TDP but ymmv, the 250W figure would be a worst case scenario. MaxxBot fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Dec 11, 2018 |
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Dec 11, 2018 00:09
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Sion posted:I got an intel i5-9600 k and a Aorus gaming K3 motherboard - the motherboard supports the 9600k but only after revision 10. The motherboard comes with revision 1 firmware on it. Cheapest drop-in CPU is going to be the Celeron G4900 at ~$50.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:15
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lord_daeloth posted:Too late! Anyway, CPU seems fine, so yeah, doing an RMA on the board. Of course, when I tried to print the shipping label, Newegg crapped its pants and told me a shipping label had already been issued and to contact customer service. I've been sitting at #141 in the queue for 15 minutes now. Nothing is ever easy You probably already came to realize this, but the Newegg return labels take about 20 minutes to generate, and are sent to your email. I had the exact same experience this weekend. I don't think it indicates that you'll be receiving it there, either, so it's really confusing.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:18
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ddogflex posted:You can do some sort of soft raid with essentially any drive combination. It's generally pointless and not a good idea. What are you trying to do though? I had a 1TB harddrive on my work computer and got a 2TB drive from a coworker, so I made them into a 1TB RAID-1 with mdadm and kept the remaining storage on the 2TB drive for less important files. It's a non-issue. If the possible loss of performance was important one would be using SSD. It also hasn't been more than six months since I got rid of the last 1TB and 2TB drives from my home server and replaced them with 4TB drives. Currently I have 7 drives of three different manufacturer and model, ranging from 6 and half years old to 4 months, and they work just fine in RAID-6.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:28
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MaxxBot posted:The 1080Tis are 250W each and google tells me an average space heater is 1500W so three workstations with dual 1080Tis would be roughly equivalent. It might be slightly less because from my personal experience training wouldn't peg the TDP but ymmv, the 250W figure would be a worst case scenario. Duh, the wattage. Thanks.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:38
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Chinook posted:You probably already came to realize this, but the Newegg return labels take about 20 minutes to generate, and are sent to your email. I had the exact same experience this weekend. I don't think it indicates that you'll be receiving it there, either, so it's really confusing. Yup, pretty much, haha. And no, there is no indication. They say they will send you an email with the RMA number, which comes like right away. Then there is a button to click that is supposed to take you to a page with your label, but it just kept giving me that error. While waiting in the chat queue, the window closed and told me "Chat is currently unavailable." So I called and did the whole call me back thing, which said 3-9 minutes. While waiting, the email with a shipping label popped in. They called back 45 minutes after that. Good times. We all laughed. In the future, I may just go ahead and pay more to get everything through Amazon.
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Dec 11, 2018 02:21
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Preliminary list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rm8kyX Just finished putting this guy together and I'm pretty impressed with that 2200g chip. For shits and grins I installed Doom 2016. Ran at 30 fps with medium settings. Dad is going to love it! That Masterbox case was a dream to work in SalTheBard fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Dec 11, 2018 |
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Dec 11, 2018 02:32
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