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My current system has an i5 3570k (stock, I never got around to overclocking it). How big of a deal is the current generation compared to that? I'm considering getting a new monitor to replace my current seven-year-old U2311H, and I'm looking at 27" at either 2560x1440 or 4k. I currently have a GF 970 that I got used from a friend a while ago, and especially if I go for 4k I figure I should probably upgrade that. Two questions arise from that though: how far should I upgrade the GPU, and should I also upgrade the CPU while I'm at it? e: also, how big of a deal is G-sync? Should I wait for that new HDMI refresh thing that's supposed to come next year, are there any advantages to that? TheFluff fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Nov 16, 2017 |
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Nov 16, 2017 16:51
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willroc7 posted:Before you do anything, overclock that sucker. Mine runs at 4.4ghz like a dream. It's free performance you are leaving on the table. Yeah, I guess it's not that hard. I probably need a better cooler, but that's cheap.
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Nov 16, 2017 17:31
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Ideal Paradigm posted:Looking for a cheap GPU upgrade to hold me over for the next two years. Your CPU and motherboard support overclocking, yes, and the 3570k seems quite easy and willing to overclock. Whether or not you're gonna bottleneck on the CPU depends on what games you're playing, from what I understand, so you can get as much or as little GPU you want or have budget for. There's not much point in buying AMD at the moment it seems, for the same performance you get higher power usage/heating/noise without any real price savings. On the Nvidia side the GTX 1060 is modestly priced and should be enough to run most current titles at 1080p at decent settings; the next step up is the 1070 which is almost twice as expensive. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Nov 18, 2017 |
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Nov 18, 2017 23:52
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Gerbil_Pen posted:Country: USA The Asus Maximus series mobos are what you get if you're gonna do some really hardcore overclocking. If you're not planning to do that, they really don't add much of note at all and you shouldn't pay extra for them. If you need wifi it doesn't need to cost you $60 either. The PSU is probably unnecessarily big - 750W should be plenty as long as you don't go SLI later (and there's not much reason to). In fact even 750W is kinda overkill (doesn't hurt though, and gives you room to upgrade the GPU later). Doesn't save much to go down in size, either. i5 vs i7 is debatable. The big thing with the i7 is hyperthreading, and multithreading is becoming more common in games. Is it worth $130? If you're planning to use the same CPU for a long time in the future, I'd say "probably", but that's based on historical data (CPU's have aged much slower than GPU's when it comes to improving game performance) and it's not certain that this trend will continue. Your multitasking scenario also kinda speaks in favor of the i7. SSD size is up to you - how many games do you want to have installed at a time? If the answer is "five 50GB AAA titles at once, at the very least" then you should probably go for 1TB. You can easily add another SSD later though, if you don't want to decide now. e: other minor things: - do you really need a DVD drive? I haven't used mine for like five years and the only reason it's still mounted in the case is that I can't find the plastic cover for the 5.25" hole its removal would leave - 1TB HDD is weirdly small, especially if you're going with 1TB SSD. Usually the scenario is, either you need lots of slow storage (in which case you might as well spend a few more bucks another TB or two to save you the trouble of adding another drive later), or you don't (and then the SSD on its own should be fine). TheFluff fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Nov 21, 2017 |
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Nov 21, 2017 20:00
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Zigmidge posted:I'm going to be picking up a motherboard, ram and 8700k from my local shop but I'm told that cpu does not come with cooling. I currently have a coolermaster hyper 212 which says that it supports socket 1151 with an * but won't say why. Will I have trouble mounting that cooler or it's not powerful enough or what's up with that asterisk? In general terms, usually aftermarket coolers come with some kind of adaptable mounting bracket kit that has a bunch of different screw holes and adapter parts that make it possible to fit it on a whole bunch of sockets with different distances between mounting holes, different socket heights over the PCB, different die sizes etc etc. If it says it supports 1151 with an asterisk it probably means you need some kind of adapter/washer/stud/bracket/other small piece(s) of metal that may or may not have come with the cooler originally and that you may or may not have misplaced since then.
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Nov 21, 2017 21:27
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Chernabog posted:I have this PC and want to upgrade it. I mostly agree with what Chikimiki said - CPU and RAM are fine and upgrading those is gonna cost you a lot of money with not much tangible benefit. I strongly recommend getting a SSD as priority one - it benefits everything you do on the computer and it has a huge noticeable impact on speed. It's very easy to install, you just screw it to a drive bay (or even velcro it to something inside the case, it weighs nothing and has no moving parts), plug in two cables, maybe install a driver and off you go. Some people recommend reinstalling Windows on the new drive, but it's also possible to move an existing Windows installation from a HDD to a SSD without too much trouble. I did that to my current Windows installation. Just google for a guide, it's pretty easy.
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Nov 22, 2017 10:03
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Chernabog posted:I think it is 480GB but I don't have it with me right now. Either way it should be an improvement. They should be pretty much functionally identical. The main difference between third party GPU manufacturers these days is cooler design, but this is a pretty low power card and both the variants you linked are dual-fan designs (which is generally what you want - blower designs tend to be a lot noisier) so the differences are gonna be pretty minuscule. Get whichever is cheapest, or get Asus for their reputation, or whatever you like. You might want to take a ruler or measuring tape to your case though to make sure the card will fit. Physical dimensions can actually vary a fair bit between manufacturers. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 16:03
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Chernabog posted:When you say it is low power, do you mean it draws little power or that it is not very powerful? I might shell out a bit more if I can get something that will last longer. Both. It's a lot more powerful than what you have now, but the current top-of-the-line cards go a lot further. It is however pretty much the fastest card you can get right now that doesn't need an extra power connector from the PSU, and as Chikimiki said earlier, pre-built systems often lack these. Even if yours has one, you might want to check that it has enough wattage - faster cards eat a ton of power. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 16:45
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dragon enthusiast posted:I'm looking to ride out the rest of current gen and as much of next gen as possible running 1080p60 at High, but I feel like I overspecced in my build. Given that I'm really only willing to stick with Intel/NVidia due to dumb reasons, is there anywhere I can pare down the components to save on some cash? I guess I should wait until BF/CM before looking at prices? Well, if you want a current Intel processor and a 1070 then you're gonna have to pay what they cost. A current i5 is definitely overkill for current generation games but if the historical trend keeps going on it's gonna last you at least four or five years without much problem. I can think of one or a few options to pinch a few pennies though: - You're paying quite a premium for the Asus brand name and reputation on the motherboard. You can easily save at least $50 by switching to, say, an Asrock Z370 Extreme4 without sacrificing any meaningful functionality or overclocking potential. - Similarly, the 1070 you have there is a solid choice but you're paying a bit extra for the brand, a factory overclock and getting the same cooler as on the Asus GTX 1080. You can save maybe $20-30 by getting a dual-fan design from some other manufacturer. Just don't get a single-fan blower, you'll go nuts from the noise. - $90 sounds kinda expensive for a 650W PSU. You can probably switch down to 550W for this build (with the caveat that you might have to upgrade it later if you want to upgrade to a GPU), and there are good budget options with solid voltage regulation and high efficiency around these days, especially if you're willing to compromise a bit on modularity. See if you can get a Seasonic Focus Plus or something for maybe $70. PSU reviews aren't exactly exciting reading but Jonnyguru has them if you're feeling doubtful. - You could switch to a non-K CPU and an even cheaper motherboard if you're not going to overclock. Do you not have any previous PC to cannibalize for things like drives or a case either? TheFluff fucked around with this message at 10:38 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 23, 2017 10:33
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Chrungka posted:I'm wondering, would Fatal1ty Z370 Gaming-ITX/ac with Intel i7 8700k support dual 4k 60Hz monitors without discrete GPU? Looking at specification, ports themselves should do just fine (HDMI 2.0, DP 1.2 and ThunderBolt 3), but are there any other limitations I should know about? It should work. The Intel UHD 630 still doesn't have HDMI 2.0 support built in, it needs a support chip (called a LSPCON) on the motherboard for it, but the particular motherboard you linked is one of the few Z370 boards that has one of those (you can tell since it explicitly says it supports 4k@60 over HDMI, and it also shows up on some HTPC nerd forums). The GPU itself supports up to three 4k monitors. (You might have known all this already since you picked the mobo you did) TheFluff fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 23, 2017 16:55
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Admiral Joeslop posted:What are the super cool cases nowadays? I'm looking at this case but I wouldn't mind something in a different color like orange or purple.  gamer aesthetic: FSP CMT510 If you just want something that isn't completely black (like every other case on the planet), most of NZXT's cases can be had with a bunch of different color highlights and they seem pretty well thought out in general. Fractal Design's Focus G is also available in a few different colors but I hope you want a gigantic window on the side.
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Nov 23, 2017 20:36
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Fauxtool posted:that does not seem like anywhere near a large enough gap on the front panel, how are the thermals? No idea, it was introduced like a week ago so nobody reputable has reviewed it yet as far as I can tell. It wasn't really a serious suggestion, it was more to illustrate the "tempered glass and seizure LED's" aesthetic mentioned a few posts above mine.
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Nov 23, 2017 21:03
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I thought that guy was kidding about glass cases. :psyduck windows are so 2016, these days both case sides have to be all glass dude 
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Nov 23, 2017 21:05
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The 550W variant of that Seasonic unit would work fine as well. To restate a message from the OP - don't skimp on power supplies. Corsair's CX series is cheap but it comes with caveats that probably won't damage anything, but it's really not worth risking $800 worth of electronics that you will use for years to save like $50. Let me relate an anecdote. When I was a foolish young man, one summer I bought a very cheap power supply to replace another cheap power supply, which had died after a few years of operation. I bought it from a local brick and mortar store because I needed it now, darn it. When I plugged it in, the system seemed completely dead; fans would spin but it didn't even attempt to run the POST. At first I thought the old dying PSU had taken the motherboard with it, but borrowing the ATX connector from the PSU in dad's computer revealed that this was not the case - for whatever reason the motherboard would not accept that the new PSU was there. I went back to the brick and mortar store to attempt a warranty replacement, but they checked it with some testing gadget and claimed that it worked just fine. Since I was young and foolish I did not want to make a fuss and insist, so I went back home with it to try to troubleshoot it myself. Being a young man with lots of spare time and a desperate need to have his computer back, I armed myself with a multimeter and a copy of the ATX specification and started measuring voltages. It turned out that when a PSU starts up, it's supposed to deliver a set voltage (I believe it's 5v, don't remember) within +/- 5% or so to a pin called PWR_OK. This voltage was a tiny bit out of spec, by enough that my motherboard thought the PSU was broken and refused to attempt to power itself on. So, being - as mentioned - a very foolish young man driven both by video game abstinence and the most powerful of nerd motivations - the desire to prove someone wrong - I took a wirecutter to the PWR_OK line and used a paperclip to hook it up to one of the regular voltage pins on the ATX connector, which happened to be the correct voltage for the PWR_OK signal. And lo, I was proven right, because the drat thing booted up and worked. Naturally this wasn't a permanent solution, but having now proven those douches at the store wrong with science, I went back the next day to restate my case. And they of course refused to replace it because I had damaged it. Anyway, to make a long story short, after a lot of arguing they talked me into buying a Corsair VX550 at a discount as a "goodwill gesture" instead and since I was a dumbass I gave them more money because I wanted my computer back. This was around ten years ago now. That very same Corsair VX550 is still powering the computer under my desk today, many upgrades later. It will continue to do so until sometime next week, because I finally ordered a Seasonic Focus Plus to replace it the other day. We met on bad terms but have had a long and faithful relationship, and I think it has deserved its retirement. So, yeah, don't skimp on power supplies. A good one will last you a drat long time. Also, don't gently caress around with PSU wires. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 01:51
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alex314 posted:
It requires an internet connection to do it because it sends your temperature readings to ~the cloud~ to use ~machine learning~ to optimize your air flow. Naturally, it’s pretty typical Internet of poo poo quality software and every review I’ve seen has blasted it for being buggy and weird. The consensus seems to be that it’s a great case in almost every respect except for that “smart” fan controller.
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Nov 24, 2017 14:02
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Koramei posted:if you get a higher wattage PSU than you need, will it always eat up a bunch of extra power, or will it only take what it needs? It will use only what it needs. If you have a very overdimensioned one though, you'll probably lose a few percentage points efficiency, but it's almost completely insignificant in practice - we're talking about like five to ten watts here, tops (PSU's tend to reach peak efficiency around 50% load; at very low loads they're least efficient but since the draw is so low in absolute terms it doesn't really matter). Most of the good ones don't really come in sizes smaller than around 5-600W so that's usually what you'll end up getting. Those prices are really good so get a GQ or G2 or whichever (why does EVGA have so many different PSU lines?) and it'll probably last you ten years. e: Koramei posted:Well, half asking myself, this PSU is decent right? It's the one I'm thinking of getting https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0650-Y1 Yep that's one of the good ones. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 20:15
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Tagichatn posted:How often should you replace power supplies? If you buy the good ones that come with a 7-10 year warranty (Seasonic offers 10 years on their stuff in the $80-90 range which is one of the reasons they get recommended so much), when that warranty expires is a good time to consider starting to look for a new one. The power generating parts themselves will probably last at least another ten years after that, but fans tend to be less durable and  a year (or less) isn't that much of a cost to keep your computer running. Also, always replace (under warranty if possible) a PSU that starts making funny noises (crackling, buzzing, weird fan noises, etc).
TheFluff fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 20:35
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Digital Jedi posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant That looks great and there are only two things I can think of that I might (or might not) have done differently: - NVMe SSD instead of SATA (another $100 for a modest benefit, but when you're spending close to $3k...) - Smaller case, probably - full towers seem kinda silly to me now since you barely put anything in them these days. Cases are definitely a matter of taste though.
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Nov 24, 2017 21:50
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Enourmo posted:I've been set a task to build a new home office computer for my mom to replace her current behemoth of a space heater with something small and power-efficient, with lots of storage and dual-monitor capability. I see there's a scant few motherboards with built-in dual HDMI outputs, is there any reason to avoid those? Her monitors may or may not have HDMI ports, but they do use DVI so we can just get a couple adapters if need be. Alternately, do any remotely modern mobos have dual DVI built-in? I strongly doubt there are any dual DVI motherboards. The dual HDMI ones are usually small form factor ones (ITX) intended for HTPC’s and the like, and for your use case that’s exactly what you want. Other than that they’re usually the same as a full ATX board except with fewer PCIe and RAM slots. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 23:09
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Klyith posted:I still have an Antec P182. Just about to hit it's 10th birthday, and still the best case ever made IMHO. Though a P180 has advantages that make the lack of USB 3 ports worthwhile. Tempered glass is kind of a fad (especially putting it everywhere even when it makes no sense whatsoever) but windows on cases have been around for a long time. Hiding the wiring behind the motherboard tray though isn't just a aesthetic trend, it actually does improve airflow a bit with no downsides other than making the case about an inch/3cm wider, and I don't think that's going to go away. PSU shrouds though, that one I don't really see the benefit from.
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Nov 26, 2017 14:29
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Neddy Seagoon posted:I've yet to see a better general (and silent) tower case than the Fractal Design Define R5. I have the R4 and the only gripes I have about it is that a) it's big and heavy and b) air intake from the front is pretty meh. I think the R5 does better on the latter point but since I don't use the optical drive anymore I think I'll go with the Define C or something for my next build to address the first point. Only problem then is that it's kind of boringly good, it's like a Volvo station wagon in that way. I'd like just a little bit of LED's or something to lighten up the square black box. Something like the Be Quiet Dark Base 700 would be cool, but as neat as that looks it's definitely not worth paying at least twice as much. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Nov 26, 2017 |
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Nov 26, 2017 18:03
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INTJ Mastermind posted:I have a question about PSU requirements. I'm running an i7-8700k and a 1080Ti. Just ordered a NZXT x62 AIO cooler and a delid kit and I'm planning to some overclocking when everything arrives. If it's the 650W one you don't strictly need to upgrade it, unless you have a whole bunch of HDD's or something. A good PSU these days has very stable voltage regulation throughout its entire output range, and it's very unlikely you'll ever be running both the CPU and the GPU at their absolute maximum power at the same time except during benchmarks, so a system like yours that might conceivably go north of 550W in benchmarks should still be OK. If it's the 550W one you'll want to upgrade that.
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Nov 26, 2017 22:33
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TheEye posted:I'm getting parts for a new PC over the next week or two. I mostly play games and have a 1080p monitor. My past builds have always been in the neighborhood of the "performance gamer" listed in the OP. However, I have never overclocked anything before, and likely won't in the future. Here's an initial list I just put together: 2. Nope, if you’re not overclocking and don’t need wifi it’s just fine 3. Nope, go with SATA, there’s no reason to run M.2 without NVMe If you only play at 1080p/60Hz and want to save money now (but possibly do a mid-life upgrade of the GPU later, say in a year or two) you can probably drop down to a 1060 without too much of a sacrifice in performance. You could also downsize the PSU by at least 100W if you wanted to but there’s not much savings to be had there, especially not if you’re getting a G2 for $60.
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Nov 27, 2017 00:30
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dragon enthusiast posted:Updated build: Well, since you dropped down to a non-K CPU you can now drop the motherboard down even further if you want. Most people get the higher end motherboards for the high end voltage regulation necessary for overclocking and end up also paying for a bunch of extras they will never use (like on the Z370 Extreme4 you got there that I recommended, there's eight SATA ports, a LED controller, a S/PDIF optical audio port, three potential PCI-E x16 slots, enough headers to support something like twelve USB ports and so on and so forth). Since you don't need the overclocking stuff anymore and probably only want one GPU and a reasonable number of SATA devices, you can easily drop down another tier to the Asrock Z370 Pro4 or something like that. Chernabog posted:I looked at the PSU that was included with my Dell and it is 480w and has a 2X 6 pin plug for the GPU (8 pin plug) . Your current GPU has an 8-pin plug? Or do you mean the one you want has an 8-pin plug? The 6- and 8-pin PCI-E cables have the same voltage pinouts (just 12v and ground on each pair of pins) but the 6-pin one is rated for 75 watts while the 8-pin one is rated for 150. Some GPU's come with 2x6 to 1x8 adapter and if yours does you can just use that, or you can buy one for a few bucks if it doesn't. What's the rated wattage of your PSU, though? Should be labeled somewhere on it.
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Nov 27, 2017 19:48
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Chernabog posted:I meant that the PSU has the 2X 6 pin out cable and the GPU takes 8 pins. That is the rating I was after, sorry for being unclear. 460W is below NVidia's recommended 500W for a 1070, but in practice you'll probably be okay - see for example here which tested your CPU with an overclocked 980Ti (which was way more power hungry than a 1070) and came out under 400W. I would still upgrade to at least 550W for peace of mind, especially since yours has aged a bit and I'm not familiar with the OEM, but you don't strictly have to.
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Nov 27, 2017 20:14
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Koramei posted:Is this PSU completely garbage? https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=100-B1-0500-KR Koramei posted:Also, is there any problem with having just a single 8gb stick rather than two sticks together? I want 16gb eventually but I think I can make do for a while and I've heard the prices are kinda crazy right now. You absolutely want two sticks because of dual channel. It essentially doubles your memory bandwidth. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Nov 27, 2017 |
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Nov 27, 2017 20:27
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Koramei posted:Is the capacitor blowing less of an issue because of a lighter load? Would that apply to the current 5-year-old PSU in it too? She's pretty much just gonna be doing browsing on it. I'm really not enough of an electrician/electrical engineer to be able to give you any kind of informed answer on the effects of a blown capacitor. It is likely (but not 100% certain) to kill the PSU, but beyond that I can't say. I've had a PSU die on me with everything surviving the ordeal, but I never actually investigated what went wrong with it. I think I misunderstood what you said though. I thought you meant the EVGA unit you linked was the one that was five years old. Both of the failure modes I mentioned are the ones I would expect to see in a five year old budget unit. The reason I brought up capacitors is that it's one of the few parts of a PSU other than the fan that actually suffers wear to a meaningful extent, and low budget units often cut costs by using lower quality caps (and that's why you see people going on about getting stuff with Japanese caps rather than Chinese). To sum up though - for an older, used PC that's destined for light duties in its old age, I would not bother replacing the PSU. If it dies the computer will probably survive mostly intact and if it doesn't, well, you can probably get used replacement parts pretty cheap. I would not reuse a five year old budget PSU for a new build, though. On the other hand I'm definitely going to use all ten years of a Seasonic unit's warranty period (and then some, foisted off to some older computer).
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Nov 27, 2017 21:20
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Lemon posted:Hey folks, I'm thinking of getting a 4K monitor but before I head over to the monitors thread for info I want to check if it's even viable: You can run three monitors on the card yes, but the 1070 isn't enough for gaming at 4k. You can just run at 1080p or even 1440p though and the monitor will scale it fine, it just won't look that sharp. There are also other caveats. I don't have direct experience with this myself, but my impression is that edit: no, the above isn't quite right. You can set different scales for different monitors now in Win10. There are still caveats though - as I understand it, the "default scaling" is set when you log in based on your primary monitor, and most apps only use the default scale regardless of which monitor they're on, resulting in wonky scaling artifacts. See more here. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Nov 28, 2017 |
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Nov 28, 2017 01:44
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Klyith posted:you need either a recent mobo with lots of PWM headers or a PWM fan controller to put those ML fans everywhere in your case If they have a mobo with only one or two chassis fan PWM controllers, a 10-port PWM fan controller that takes power input via molex and PWM input from a single mobo header is only like , but I've seen reports that motherboards can be finicky about recognizing those things. YMMV.
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Nov 28, 2017 14:21
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NovaLion posted:Let's say you have $3500 to build a new PC. What do you put together? With that kind of budget you can just get near top of the line stuff for pretty much everything, no problem. Main question is if which monitor you want, because there are actually tradeoffs you have to make there - high refresh rate, G-sync, good color reproduction and high DPI is not something that exists in one and the same consumer monitor at the moment. So, something like this perhaps? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($339.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($144.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($159.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($246.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card ($804.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design - Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($97.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.90 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($135.88 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Corsair - ML140 Pro 97.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($25.89 @ Newegg Marketplace) Case Fan: Corsair - ML140 Pro 97.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($25.89 @ Newegg Marketplace) Monitor: Dell - AW3418DW 34.1" 3440x1440 120Hz Monitor ($1299.99 @ Adorama) Total: $3436.24 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-28 18:59 EST-0500 With heavy gaming in mind, obviously. PSU's a bit oversized; if you're spending this much money you might as well get 32GB RAM; you can easily spend another $50-100 on the motherboard if you are into extreme overclocking; case is a matter of taste; you might want some actual HDD's, etc etc. And of course if you're not spending $1300 on that particular curved monitor but rather a more reasonable $700 for a regular 1440p 27" 144Hz G-sync monitor you can easily fit in a whole bunch of other stuff (bigger SSD, more RAM, etc). TheFluff fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 01:05
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Zero VGS posted:The Dell monitor you and I both mentioned is cheaper at Dell.com btw, it was 999 on Cyber Monday and is $1150 now. Right, so there's another 16GB RAM. E: vvv yep vvv TheFluff fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 29, 2017 01:14
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Q8ee posted:I don't know what FE is. And by open cooler, do you mean a setup that doesn't require water cooling and is fine with just fans? I honestly don't care about looks, sound levels, etc. I just want the best bang for my buck. FE stands for "founder's edition", and in the context of the 1000-series of NVidia GPU's refers to NVidia's own reference design - and in this case the only thing really that differentiates it from any of the third-party licensed designs is the cooler. Basically the way this works (somewhat simplified) is that NVidia makes the actual GPU core and memory. They make their own card with this - the reference design, and in this case called the "Founder's Edition". Then, third-party manufacturers (Asus, MSI, Gigabyte et al) take this GPU and memory, maybe design their own circuit board to put them on, and then add their own cooler design. In most cases the third-party manufacturers also sell factory-overclocked variants of the design, so this is why you have a bazillion different variants - each manufacturer has one stock design with a cheapo cooler, one with a better cooler, one overclocked one with a bad cooler, one overclocked with a better cooler, some hilarious overpriced variant with extra LED's and so on and so forth. In the case of the 1070Ti though NVidia has forbidden the third parties to actually factory overclock the thing to a meaningful degree (because if they did it'd compete with the 1080) so there are really only two important considerations here: 1. Does the card you want fit in your case? Third-party cards can a) be very long and b) have very tall coolers. For most cards you'll need two or sometimes three PCI-E slots vertically, but this depends on the cooler design and is rarely a problem unless you have a lot of PCI cards or a very small case. Do check your case manufacturer's home page though, usually the max graphics card length is listed somewhere. 2. Can you tolerate a vacuum cleaner in your room while gaming? The reference design cards (FE) have a blower-type cooler; that is, they have a single centrifugal fan at one end of the card that blows air through the cooler and out the back of your computer. This has two advantages, namely that a) it doesn't take a lot of space (especially vertically) and b) it works decently even in cases with relatively little air flow. On the other hand it has a very obnoxious disadvantage, namely that the single fan has to work really hard and so the card is really loving loud while under load. It's not quite vacuum cleaner level but I'm not joking when I'm saying it's loud. The other way to do air cooling is to just put a bunch of fans on top of the card blowing air down onto it (or, well, actually facing upwards when the card is mounted in the case). This is much quieter but takes more vertical space, and it works less well if your case has really bad airflow through it because it just ends up circulating warm air in there. If I were you I'd buy the cheapest card I could find with at least two fans, provided it fit in my case. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Nov 30, 2017 |
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Nov 30, 2017 00:24
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Le0 posted:Are i7 8700K in stock in the US? It's apparently out of stock in all of Europe. There are places in Sweden that claim to have them in stock at a 10-15% premium over the ordinary market price.
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Nov 30, 2017 12:50
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Besides making sure a mobo fits in the case and matches the CPUs socket, what do you need to look for in one? I see the OP suggestion for motherboards, but no reason on why one is better than another. If you want to overclock, you need to look up threads on nerd forums to figure out which ones have good voltage regulation (there's a handy chart for this for the current Intel chipset floating around somewhere). If you don't, pick whatever. If you want wifi, grab one that has wifi. If not, you're almost certainly going to be okay with the cheapest one you can find. There's a certain minimum level of stuff that's going to be on there just from having the appropriate chipset, and in most cases it will have all you need. If you need something specific like 7.1 audio or S/PDIF or an unusual number of onboard graphics outputs or an USB-C port or a bazillion SATA ports or an adressable LED controller, then look for that specifically. e: the chart in question:  The Asrock Extreme4 is pretty cheap and can do all but the most extreme overclocking so it's a common recommendation for this Intel generation. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Nov 30, 2017 |
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Nov 30, 2017 19:10
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Space Racist posted:Is there a go-to for best Z370 motherboard? Alternately, ones to avoid? To tl;dr the chart BIG HEADLINE posted, the Asrock Extreme4 is probably the best value at the moment (should be somewhere around $150). Only seems to have three real chassis fan headers though, but you can solve that with an Y-connector easily enough. If you want something better than that you pretty much land in the $200-250 range no matter what you pick. The Asus ROG/Maximus series and the Asrock Fatal1ty series are what Silicon Lottery recommends so those should be safe bets.
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Dec 2, 2017 00:14
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deathfalls posted:Been getting the itch to build a new system lately and starting to take a look at the options. drat, RAM prices are way higher than I remember them being. Judging by how this has worked historically, there's really no need to think about what the motherboard will be compatible with in the future. CPU's age quite slowly and there's really not much point in upgrading within a generation, and motherboards/chipsets generally aren't compatible between generations anyway.
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Dec 2, 2017 17:11
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Banano posted:So my beloved i7 920 is still going strong after 7ish years but I need a second machine so it may as well be one that can last just as long and function as my primary VR rig. That's a previous generation CPU. If you're spending over 2k GBP there's really no reason to get an old CPU model. On the flip side, you're spending at least twice as much as you should on the motherboard. If you swap your priorities around and switch to an i7-8700K and a, say, Asus Prime Z370-A or Asrock Z370 Extreme4 (or maybe Asrock Z370 Taichi if you're gonna do some serious overclocking) you'll come out to the same total price but one CPU generation newer, and you'll gain two CPU cores. I'm not familiar with VR to say with any certainty but I think you might want at least a 1080 for that? TheFluff fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Dec 2, 2017 |
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Dec 2, 2017 21:40
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MobMentality posted:Alright, I think I've settled on a parts list, I think. Are you planning on overclocking? If so, I'd get about $20 worth of more cooler (Noctua NH-D15 or Cryorig R1 are the go-to options) and a bit beefier motherboard (for example Asus Z370 Strix-E or Asrock Z370 Taichi would do - both have wifi and the kind of good voltage regulation you want for an overclocking board). If not, you can drop down to a non-K CPU and an even smaller cooler and save some money. $120 is way too much for a 750W PSU. Get a Seasonic Focus Plus - it's the gold standard for reliability, comes with a 10 year warranty and should cost you less than $80. The monitor is a TN panel, which means pretty awful color reproduction and viewing angles. Normally the reason you go TN is that you want really high refresh rate for cheap, but the one you picked here is only 60Hz and you said you want to edit photos and movies. I really can't recommend a TN panel for that. You can have a good 27" 4k IPS monitor for about $500 these days - I just recently got a LG 27UD68P myself, and it's great. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Dec 3, 2017 |
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Dec 3, 2017 18:23
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MobMentality posted:Excellent advice, thank you. Is there anything on that list I could find a comparable product that's cheaper? I'll look at the parts you listed.
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Dec 3, 2017 20:40
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Same Great Paste posted:My bad. So should I do a 8700? 8700K? Something else? If you're not overclocking and aren't doing something like video encoding where tons of threads is beneficial, I'd say the i5-8400 is pretty good value at the moment. i7-8700K has maybe 15-20% better single thread performance but costs close to twice as much. The i7 also has hyperthreading, but whether that is of any use to you depends on what you're doing. For most games it doesn't matter, at the moment, but that might change in the future. A lot of people here are doing full-system rebuilds and blowing over $2000 though, and at that point you might as well spend another $150-200 on an i7-8700K, especially since you cannot actually buy a (cheaper) non-overclocking motherboard at the moment. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Dec 3, 2017 |
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Dec 3, 2017 22:05
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