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So I'm planning to get one of those newfangled Pascal cards. I built my system in 2012 and so right now I have an i5-3550 for CPU and 8 GB DDR3 1333 MHz of RAM. Would I be cool with keeping those, or should I be thinking about swapping something else out when I upgrade the video card?
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May 14, 2016 19:27
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Is there anyone using a SilverStone ML08B for their case? I am a sucker for small form factors, and if I can get a 1070 into there, that would be pretty sweet.
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May 31, 2016 18:04
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Motley posted:Also, this might be a really stupid question, but how do audio and peripheral inputs work? I've never really used a proper desktop PC, just my laptop and the old Mac desktop my parents have, so I don't know. Will my keyboard and mouse plug in to the monitor or in to the case? Also, will the case that I buy effect whether I will be able to plug in headphones and a mic? Do I need to buy a monitor that has proper inputs for speakers and headphones or does that go right into the PC? I hope my questions make sense. Ultimately those inputs/outputs all go to the motherboard, and those plugs will be available in the rear of the case. Almost all cases also have front audio and USB plugs that you will connect to the motherboard, and and you can plug your stuff into those as well. Some monitors will have USB hub ports and headphone jacks as well, though, which may be more convenient but not necessary
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Jul 13, 2016 17:03
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I'm currently window-shopping since I won't be able to build a new PC until the beginning of September. But will I reap any significant savings on parts by waiting any longer, like for a sale? Newegg does a Thanksgiving sale, right? Also aren't the 1070s supposed to be $379 at some point
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Jul 16, 2016 06:39
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So every year I spend a month or two on the other side of the country with my family. Working with my low-powered laptop is starting to get annoying, and I'm thinking of building a cheap desktop. My typical use would be driving two 1080p screens at once: one with streaming video, the other with Chrome open to a dozen tabs, plus Office apps. I think I could live without a discrete graphics card -- I'll be building a "real" gaming rig back home in the fall, so I'd want to penny pinch here. The OP says at the low end it would be cheaper just to get a pre-built system. Is that still true? What should I be looking at?
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Jul 21, 2016 17:02
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What's a safe sustained temperature for components to be running at? There's a build in the Mini-ITX thread that I'm planning to crib from, including a case which is small form factor and fanless. They were running a 1070 at 75C and a 6700k at 70C. I gather that's somewhat hot, but what does that mean, like "this will die in 2 years of regular use" hot or what?
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Jul 22, 2016 16:21
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Cool, thanks. They were also overclocking, which I'm still hesitant to do, so I'd probably have lower temps than that as well.
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Jul 22, 2016 16:50
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If I had Terry Crews money I would build in a Lian Li PCQ17.
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Jul 22, 2016 22:07
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Real Talk: Is overclocking really worth it if I just want to have a system and get back to work and gaming the day I build it? It seems like to overclock, I'd need to get a slightly better CPU, slightly better mobo, slightly better RAM, a custom cooler, and maybe a slightly better power supply. So that's about $100 more for what kind of performance boost? Someone said that overclocking was a no-brainer these days, but then I look at the overclocking thread and there's an exploding computer in the OP and the last couple pages are people talking about tweaking and monitoring their system for days or even weeks
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Jul 24, 2016 22:31
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Eletriarnation posted:An overclocked system also has a longer useful lifespan. I'm typing this post on a system I built in early 2012 with an i5-2500K, for around $800. I could have instead built a system with an i5-2400, stock cooler and non-Z68 motherboard and kept the rest the same for $700, and it probably would have been about the same at the time. However, I just swapped a GTX 1060 into my system to replace the Radeon 7850 I got in 2012 and the CPU is now having to work a lot harder to keep up. Because it's running at 33% over stock speed it's probably faster than Skylake i5s at stock, and I'm pretty confident that it isn't limiting me too much. If I had a 2400, I would probably have bought a whole new system instead of just paying $300 for a GPU. Thanks for this. I'm aiming to build a system that would last at least four or five years, with a video card upgrade halfway through. My additional fear beyond cost/benefit was that overclocking would introduce instability and actually shorten the lifespan of the components, so if that's not the case I think I might consider it even more.
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Jul 26, 2016 03:52
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What's the best thing to do with old computer components? I'm planning to upgrade from a system I built in 2012. I don't really have need for a HTPC (and the Bitfenix Prodigy case is kind of a lame size for that anyway), and I don't think I can really make a sale or hand-me-down with it since one of the reasons I'm upgrading is severe hardware failures (hard drive stops getting recognized, random hard-lock bluescreens with the last forcing me to reformat). I would just shove it in a closet but that closet already has an even older build from 2007 and a monitor that no longer works
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Aug 21, 2016 18:41
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There are cases much smaller than the Prodigy (which is actually quite large) that will still take full-size video cards. Silverstone RVZ02, NCASE M1 The problem is you can't SLI with ITX motherboards and even the 1080 would struggle for 4K 60fps. Maybe a Titan
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Aug 22, 2016 03:39
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FamDav posted:Speaking, what would be required to game at 4K in the year 2016? Trying to decide if I want a 4K or 1440p monitor. I have been debating this same issue. I ended up deciding that 1440p/144Hz was more worthwhile to grow into over the years as opposed to 4K/60Hz
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Aug 22, 2016 16:16
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What if you got two RX480s and a Freesync monitor instead of a 1070 and paying the GSync tax
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Aug 31, 2016 01:18
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I'm getting really close on a Mini-ITX build (gaming and light video work, non-streaming). I'm at the point where I just keep tweaking part choices so I think I should just pull the trigger soon. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($228.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.94 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($127.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($156.46 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($439.00 @ B&H) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($56.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ B&H) Total: $1339.32 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-31 17:38 EDT-0400 Notes:
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Aug 31, 2016 23:04
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The Iron Rose posted:a 1070 is unlikely to be powerful enough to run high/ultra @ 1440p @ 144Hz. A 1080 would be a better choice, and even then it may struggle. Thanks! Yeah, I didn't expect to get 144fps on anything, just that I was planning to get a monitor with those capabilities and be working towards that with upgrades over the years, as opposed to going to 4K. It looks like if I tweaked settings I could actually hit 144fps with games where that would have the most effect (Overwatch, Doom), but for most everything else I would be happy to stay above 60fps. I heard that GSync provided the most benefits when there is a gap between the monitor refresh rate and the FPS the card pushes out, which is why I was considering that. The performance boost/dollar for the GTX 1080 did not look that great to me. I picked that RAM because I heard Corsair was one of the top companies, and all the pictures of ram on PCPartPicker seemed to have similar heatsinks. I didn't really see any that was just the bare stick.
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Sep 1, 2016 00:46
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The Iron Rose posted:RAM is RAM is RAM, get whatever's cheapest and whatever doesn't have giant heatsinks. It doesn't need to be just the bare stick, but it shouldn't stick out like the hilariously stupid Corsair Vengeance line does. These are all the options on PC Part Picker for DDR4-3200 . I can't tell that any are smaller or larger than another. I mean, it actually looks like the Vengeance LPX is the shortest?    
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Sep 1, 2016 01:03
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When I was looking for slim cases the one I gravitated towards was the SilverStone ML08B: I ultimately decided against it because of case temperatures when overclocking, but for a lower-powered rig it should be fine Edit: It's a Mini ITX case, though I assume there must be similar ones for Micro CharlieFoxtrot fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Sep 1, 2016 |
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Sep 1, 2016 20:00
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Any chance there will be significant Labor Day deals on hardware? I feel like I should wait a week just to make sure I'm not leaving money on the table
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Sep 2, 2016 03:34
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You could get a 4K 60hz monitor though.
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Sep 3, 2016 02:21
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I just bought every part of my build today, except for a copy of Windows 10 because I know I can do that later. I've been researching and planning and budgeting for this PC for months, and yet I feel so tense right now that I just dropped over a thousand dollars. My heart is racing
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Sep 4, 2016 02:38
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Yeah VGA is used to refer to graphics cards. When in doubt, Google the name of the case + video card + build, if someone has put those two things together successfully you can get visual confirmation
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Sep 5, 2016 14:47
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What resolution/settings are you aiming for? It can barely do 30fps@1080p Ultra with Battlefield 4, so I'm guessing it would do about that for Medium, maybe High for Battlefield 1
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Sep 5, 2016 21:29
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What do I need to do when getting a new monitor to make sure that it's working perfectly? I hear people talking about the "panel lottery" and I don't want to get burned
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Sep 7, 2016 17:11
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So every part of my build should be in by today, except my video card which should arrive Monday. I'm thinking it might be a good idea to build everything else now and get everything set up (and start installing games...) so that I could just plop in the video card when it arrives. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $228.99) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $21.79) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $138.04) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $80.93) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $96.19) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card (Purchased For $394.99) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case (Purchased For $57.80) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $88.09) So the things I'm thinking about :
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Sep 8, 2016 23:57
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I guess I should have watched a video of a full build because I seem to have done everything in the wrong order so far
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Sep 9, 2016 05:02
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VelociBacon posted:Just ask in here or PM me if you need any clarification on stuff. But yeah usually the ram and CPU/cooler are mounted to the mobo then the mobo is mounted to the case, then the case pins are attached to the mobo (power/reset/usb/etc) and then the drives and GPU/PCI-e stuff are installed. I was just going by the case manual, and the first page was about installing the PSU! Then I put in the motherboard, and when I realized I needed to access the underside of the board to install the cooler backplate (which I initially installed upside down...) I had to start over. Thanks for the advice, everyone, so far. I managed to get past step one -- turning on the computer and not having it explode. I was worried that I had missed a power connection or something since it didn't seem like anything happened when I hit the On button, until I saw the case and cooler fans were spinning. I guess I was just not used to having a computer so quiet on startup, which seems like a good sign for me. The BIOS showed everything was fine parts and temperature-wise, so I'm installing Windows now and then I'll look at those overclocking tips
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Sep 9, 2016 07:12
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So I managed to wrap my head around the CPU overclocking stuff a little bit and did a modest boost to my i5-6600k (4.3GHz, temps around 75c at full load), which I'm fine with. However, I'm trying to work with the RAM (DDr4-3000) and possibly having some problems. The BIOS main screen says my RAM is DDr4-2133, and the overclock menu says the target memory speed is 2133 MHz. There is an XMP option that has the proper specs for my RAM, but when I try to load that (or change any RAM option, really) it refuses to boot. I used Memtest86 and it reported no errors. Am I missing an option? Is there a way to see if my RAM is being used to its full potential? I figured out the numbers to look for with the CPU on HWinfo, but I have no idea with the RAM CharlieFoxtrot fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Sep 9, 2016 |
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Sep 9, 2016 20:11
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HMS Boromir posted:The simplest solution is probably to go into your motherboard's overclocking options and manually set the clock speed to something a little slower (2900, 2800) while making sure to set RAM/DIMM voltage to 1.35V. VCCSA (or System Agent Voltage) and VCCIO also have an impact on RAM stability so you may want to mess with those, though you should keep them below 1.2V or so. 16-18-18-38 were already the timings on the XMP option. I don't have a clue what those numbers mean and looking at the rows and rows of options on the RAM menus makes me think I don't really want to take that step  I just set the XMP profile and then manually set the speed down to 2800 as suggested. It's booting now, at least! Is setting the RAM more of an either/or than CPU overclocking? Like, it either works or doesn't work, and there's no setting where I would end up doing long-term damage to the hardware
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Sep 9, 2016 21:52
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The cooler I bought came with a tube of paste and it was way more than I needed, and I think I already put too much. Also the instructions told me to spread the paste, but then I looked online and everyone was saying not to do that 
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Sep 12, 2016 01:27
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Now that I've built a new PC (thanks thread!) I've been thinking about shipping my old PC to my parents' house on the other side of the country. I still have the old box for the case; would I be able to just pack the PC in there and ship it? There's no heavy heatsink in there, just a stock cooler. There's also a video card and a mechanical HDD inside.
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Sep 17, 2016 20:08
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I had the same issue with my build, even though the ram was rated at DDR4-3000 it would not boot if I set it to that speed. I just enabled XMP and then manually set the memory clock to 2800, and my system is working fine now. I guess you'd be leaving some potential on the table, but the difference should be pretty marginal, I think?
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Sep 17, 2016 20:45
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For parts warranties do I need to be registering stuff when I buy it? Or am I good as long as I can pull a copy of my store invoices? I feel like components used to come with registration cards all the time but I didn't see any with my latest build
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Oct 2, 2016 18:15
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 12:15 |
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Lavender Philtrum posted:SOmeone convinced me to buy an i5 6600k and I have no idea how to overclock it. Help!! Someone in this thread can post more details, but I thought this guide was helpful: http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics For dummies like me, basically you just modify two settings in the BIOS. You want to raise the multiplier as high as possible (for that processor most people are using a number around 44). However, the higher you go, the more likely the system will crash unless you raise the voltage. You will need to raise the voltage to get the system stable. (most people are using 1.35v, and don't ever go over 1.45v). However, the higher you go with this number, the higher the CPU temperature will be and you need to have a safe maximum temperature (under 80 C is what most people aim for, I think?). Download HWinfo64 to see what your CPU temperatures are, and a stress test (there are some in the above link) to make sure your settings are both stable and at a safe temperature when at full load
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Oct 3, 2016 19:06
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