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I've been thinking about getting a new computer in the 12-24 months, but I don't actually know very much about computers, so I thought I'd ask for some insight here. I have a Thinkpad T530 that has gotten heavy daily use since I bought it in September 2013. Here's some info on it: - Intel Core i5-3230M 2.60 GHz CPU - 12 gigabytes of RAM (Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600) - 256 gigabytes of storage space (75 gigs free, this is an Samsung 840 Pro SSD) - NVIDIA NVS 5400M and Intel HD Graphics 4000 (graphics card, I think?) - Intel Centrino Ultimate-N 6300 (think this one is the wi-fi) - I have no idea how to figure out what motherboard this thing has. - Runs up-to-date Windows 10 My user behavior is honestly pretty silly. I have two monitors and always have three browsers open (Chrome, Firefox, and Edge), which typically total up to five windows and 20+ open tabs minimum (sometimes upwards of 60+ if I'm researching something). I'm almost always actively streaming at least one video, and it's not unusual for me to have five or six videos open. I also work in pretty gigantic spreadsheets with massive datasets. I don't do computer design modeling and very rarely play video games on my computer (and when I do, it's simple platformers or whatever that don't have problems on my current system). I'm not in a big rush to replace my computer, because it's generally doing fine with this, but I've noticed that it's starting up slower and beginning to lag with moderate-to-heavy use. Here's what I'd like to know: if I were to spend $1,500, I could get the current ThinkPad T5-whatever and I'm sure it would be an across-the-board improvement over what I have now, except maybe it would still be 1920x1080 screen resolution. That's about how much my current laptop cost in 2013. So, I have three questions: - Would the spec improvement really be noticeable if I went from my current laptop to my new laptop? Or, with that user behavior, would current laptops still chug a little bit under those conditions? - What if I went with a desktop instead? I haven't regularly used a desktop computer in almost a decade outside of a couple of workplaces, but I only actually need the mobility of a laptop every six weeks or so (and I could absolutely use my current computer for those trips without issue). How big is the performance gap between a $1,500 laptop and a same-priced desktop? I have to imagine that this is the scenario where nothing I could throw at the computer would phase it, without asking it to run CAD or play Call of Duty 19. - Moving from an HDD to an SSD was a huge quality of life improvement in 2013. Is everything just kind of vaguely better now but there hasn't been another big leap forward, or is there something I should look forward to (either that's already been released or that's expected to be released in the next year or so)? I realize that it's unlikely anyone could tell me "Oh yeah, a new laptop would be 30% better than your current laptop and a desktop would be 50% better," I'm just looking for general opinions along the lines of "most people would notice a difference" or "yeah, it'll be better, but you're talking about shaving off a couple seconds of load at peak use for the price of a new computer." Thank you for any advice you may have!
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Jul 9, 2018 00:08
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I've been looking at the Lenovo Legion T730 and the Alienware Aurora R8. At sale prices, the builds I've been looking at are both in the same price range with very similar specs. Do either of those desktops or manufacturers have a notably better reputation than the other? I've tried looking around at reviews online and I didn't find many, but the handful I did find were pretty positive for both of them. I thought that folks here might have stronger opinions one way or another about the two companies, though. Thank you! edit: Here are the specs, for anyone interested. It's a Lot More than I need given some very good feedback I got elsewhere, but I'm getting partially reimbursed by my company for the expense as a remote employee and I spend such an absurd amount of my life on the computer that I really want to overbuild it and get just the best possible experience from it. 
surf rock fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 13:40
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- What country are you in? United States - What are you using the system for? Web and office, light gaming, streaming 4k video (as a consumer, not as a streamer myself) - What's your budget? $2,250 - If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? Heavy Excel/spreadsheet use - If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? It'll be two 4k monitors, ideally ultra preset (it's OK if that's at 1440p rather than 4k) but doesn't need to be more than in the ~60 frames-per-second ballpark. This won't come up much but I'd like it to be an option when it does. I've gotten good advice from the hardware short question and GPU threads that I could get by on a machine that's in the $800 to $1,000 range, which I believe. However, I want to seriously overbuild this thing and have just a delightfully excellent computer that never strains under the load and that is extremely reliable. I don't feel obligated to spend my max budget of $2,250, but ultimately economizing is a really secondary concern for me on this build. This is my big personal fun purchase of the year and I've got the money saved and allocated for it already. I was planning to buy an Alienware prebuilt at about $1,900, but an extremely kind fellow goon looked at the specs I had for it and came up with this build: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel - Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($407.89 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($144.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Inland - Professional 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Hitachi - Ultrastar 7K3000 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.35 @ Amazon) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB GAMING Video Card ($260.58 @ Newegg) Case: Antec - P7 Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - Vengeance 750 W 80+ Silver Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($54.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1254.75 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-06-13 00:20 EDT-0400 He/She was very clear that this was just an example build and that I should come to this thread for specific part recommendations. Their build did make it very clear to me that I have room for better hardware in my budget. Here are some things I'm thinking as I look at the above example build: - I'm inclined to bump up the processor to an Intel i9-9900K or an AMD Ryzen 3900X; the sub-$100 price premium seems worthwhile. I'll wait until the latter has been released and there's a goon consensus on whether it's better/worse than the Intel product, though. - Ideally, I'd like the motherboard to be able to handle super-fast RAM and have Wi-Fi 6 + excellent Bluetooth. On the wi-fi point, it'll be connected via gigabit ethernet for now (so that ethernet connection is also important), but that could change. - I was playing around in PC Part Picker to look at the different options for RAM, and it seems like some companies (especially G.skill) release a bunch of different variants of RAM with seemingly identical specs. The difference between Royal and Sniper and Trident and Ripjaws is unclear to me. Despite my admittedly irrational desire for total overkill on this build, I'll admit that there's probably literally zero difference in my use case between 32GB of RAM and 64GB. So instead, I'm interested in getting faster RAM speed. It seems like there are not-insane options up to even DDR4-4000 on PC Part Picker, so I'm interested in upgrading there. - In terms of storage, I'd like the boot drive to be an SSD with at least 512 gigs. For the HDD(s), I'd be fine with 2 TBs and up. Reliability/quality is super important for these, particularly for the boot drive. - With the video card, my understanding from some conversations in the GPU thread is that the GTX 1660 Ti would work fine for me. Since I'm already waiting until at least late July to see if the Ryzen 3900X is good, though, I'm at least curious about the Super variants of the RTX cards. - In terms of the case, this computer won't be sitting on my desk or really visible to most people (it'll be behind a little table next to my desk), so it doesn't need light-up stuff and that's one thing that I definitely don't want to pay a premium for. Honestly, the cleaner-looking and more inconspicuous the better. - For the power supply, that's another one where I want a really excellent/reliable product. Quietness is also a big factor for it. I'm guessing that a higher-capacity power supply that I don't max out would do wonders on the reliability/noise counts, but maybe I'm wrong about that. I'd like to try out some overclocking with the various components but not to the maximum possible extent. - I'd also like it to have a CD/DVD drive (I know it doesn't make a lot of sense). - I'll want it to run Windows 10 but I'm not sure what the best way to go about doing that looks like for a custom PC. Judging from the OP, it seems like I could buy the license using my current computer, download an install program onto a flash drive, and then if I plug that flash drive into a blank computer it'll then install Windows 10. I've received just an incredible amount of insight and expertise from SH/SC folks; I greatly appreciate it. Even though I'm hellbent on being a little irresponsible with my money, I am now going to at least be getting a reasonable value out of my irresponsibility.
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Jun 13, 2019 18:10
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Paul MaudDib posted:Wait a week for reviews, then go for a B450 or X470 and a 3600 over the 9700K. Thank you for the advice. Double-checking: does B450 or X470 refer to motherboards? For the processor, I'm actually looking at the 3900X or the 9900K since the price premium for them is pretty small. Sorry, I know I kind of word-vomited a lot of details in that last section there and it might not've been clear. I'm curious, could you say more about why you like the EVGA 750W G2 power supply? Any reason why you prefer it to the G3 model? It seems like that one's actually cheaper (or the same price at 850W).
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Jun 13, 2019 18:45
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Paul MaudDib posted:G3 has a bit smaller fan (higher pitched) and iirc a very slightly lower power quality (although it's still superfluous). I think it's a cost-reduced G2 personally, but they still stand behind it with the warranty, and it's still a top-tier unit. Oh, got it! That's super helpful, thank you. Stickman posted:E: The standard recommendations for boards that will work with any 1st/2nd (and probably 3rd)-gen CPU are: Thank you, this is exactly what I needed. The price differential between these is pretty minor, so that's good to know. Is there a new round of motherboards meant for the 3rd-gen Ryzens expected to be shipping this summer? I was surprised that the Asus Strix X470-F maxes out at DDR4-3466. Also, are some motherboards designed specifically for Intel processors and others for AMD processors? The sense I've been getting about motherboards is that they aren't exclusively meant for one or the other but that many are optimized for one or the other, but maybe I'm mistaken.
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Jun 13, 2019 19:59
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Stickman posted:Because the memory controllers are on the CPU die rather than the motherboard, you have to look at the support list for your specific CPU generation. 2nd-Gen Ryzens actually have 3600 kits on the approved/tested QVL list, and you might be able to run faster kits, but it's very much "at your own risk". That's all super interesting, thank you. I was looking at pairing this motherboard with an AMD Ryzen 9 3900X, assuming that CPU does well on real-world testing. That motherboard spec page stops at 3200Mhz for third-gen Ryzen, but this article suggests that that's the default allowed speed for the CPU and that it (and I'm guessing also the motherboard then?) would actually be compatible with up to 4400Mhz of RAM speed, so that's some exciting stuff. surf rock fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 14:32
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Lollerich posted:I just bought the following components [...] I am no expert (as evidenced by my many flailing ignorant posts in this forum over the past couple of weeks), but I feel very confident in saying that this way lies madness. Unless you're a computer hardware hobbyist, looking around after making your super-sick build just seems like a good way to make yourself unhappy. There's always an upgrade or a revision right around the corner; when you take the plunge and execute your build, it's inevitable that something will get announced the next day that would be an improvement on what's in your box. Other folks who are actually experienced can feel free to disagree with that, and there is room obviously for intermediate upgrades between builds of swapping out such-and-such components... personally, though, I plan to take at least a two-year break from looking at any computer hardware news the minute I'm done buying the last part for my build, just for my own sake. edit: And for what it's worth, I'm sure that the i9-9900K and the RTX 2080 Ti and NVMe SSDs and 32 GBs of 3200Mhz RAM will be much better than "decent" for years to come. surf rock fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 04:08
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orange juche posted:The premium pro stuff for adobe products is still Intel. Regardless of anything else about Ryzen, Intel is still absolute king poo poo when it comes to Adobe products. You will pay a large premium, but the advantage in favor of Intel due to optimizations in how the software is compiled by Adobe is substantial. Ryzen with Adobe stuff is like fighting with both hands tied behind your back. That's fascinating. Are there any other well-known programs or types of software that have a clear advantage on Intel vs. AMD?
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Jun 19, 2019 21:12
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DeadFatDuckFat posted:I'd like to hear some opinions on potential cases for a zen build next month also. I see people in this thread going for Meshify's and NZXT H500s. Its kinda hard to tell what the pros/cons of all these different cases are. Yeah, I agree. I've been planning on the Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 ATX Mid Tower. The dimensions are right, I didn't see anything really complain-y about it online, and apparently it's very quiet. It doesn't have a window though, if that matters to you.
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Jun 28, 2019 05:49
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Stickman posted:E: If you haven't purchased the CPU cooler yet, the Dark Rock Pro really isn't necessary for a 2600X. The stock cooler is sufficient for a decent overclock, and if you want a third-party cooler to cut down noise then the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B actually compares more favorably against the D15 than the Dark Rock Pro 4 does, for half the price (they have very similar cooling/noise curves, but the DRP4 maxes out the fan earlier than the Mugen 5). Oh, this is interesting. Does the Dark Rock Pro have any advantages on the Mugen 5? I see that the latter is even smaller, as well. Asking in relation to a planned 3900X buy.
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Jun 30, 2019 01:47
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Stickman posted:You're welcome! The Dark Rock Pro 4 is a very nice cooler and will look better in a TG case like the H500, so no worries there Oh, my case doesn't have a window on it, so cool. Sounds like I just saved $40 bucks, thank you!
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Jun 30, 2019 02:24
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Stickman posted:Your Audioengine A2+ has a built-in DAC (digital-audio converter), so if you plug it in to a USB port it will bypass the onboard audio entirely. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have a headphone jack, so you'll still be using the onboard audio for your headphones. Do you know whether the SupremeFX High Definition Audio CODEC S1220A (which is on the ASUS ROG Strix X570-E) is a step up or a step down from the Realtek ALC1220 codec?
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Jul 10, 2019 21:07
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OK, it's been a wild six-week ride of obsessively reading every post on this forum, refreshing Anandtech five times a day, watching a lot of YouTube videos, learning a billion technical terms, and I think I finally have my build planned. I really can't express enough how grateful I am to the fine folks of this forum for answering literally dozens of my questions. I'm still mulling over the monitors to go with it, and I'm going to keep an eye out on the upcoming RAM releases, but here's the plan: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor ($499.00 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Scythe - Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($47.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte - X570 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($269.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg Business) Storage: Corsair - MP510 960 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Corsair) Storage: Toshiba - X300 5 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($134.47 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI - GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card ($514.99 @ Newegg) Case: Nanoxia - Deep Silence 3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.36 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.98 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $2010.66 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-11 19:48 EDT-0400 Some notes about each part: - My budget for the computer itself was $2,200, and I resolved to spend pretty much every dollar of that budget building the craziest machine I could. I didn't quite get there, but maybe I will with the improved RAM. - I was pretty intent on going as high-end as possible within my budget with the CPU. I didn't want to wait for 3950X and I thought that that would probably be out of my budget, but I knew I could afford the 3900X. - I've seen many positive mentions of this CPU cooler here on SH/SC. It's 154 mm tall, and my case has a 165 mm max CPU cooler height, so I think I'm good here. - I also wanted to go with a higher-end motherboard. The great VRM on the X570 gives me good peace-of-mind, and I think this was the cheapest of those boards (or very close to it) with the gigabit Intel ethernet line, the Intel WiFi 6 wireless card, and Bluetooth 5. - I'd still like to do something at least a little better with this RAM. I think my ideal scenario is 2x16 GB, 3600 MHz (that can be overclocked to 3733), and CL 16. I'm keeping an eye on the recently announced G.Skill Trident Neo and Patriot Viper 4 Blackout RAM to see if either of them can deliver that within my budget. - I've really thought about going with the PCIe 4.0 version of this SSD (I think it's the Corsair MP 600?) since my motherboard will have the capability and it's technically within my budget, but the heat issues I've heard about with the first-gen of those has scared me away. Besides, that's an easy thing to upgrade in the future if I want to. - Not a lot of thought went into the HDD; I wanted a really big one because it's not expensive to get a really big one just in case, and someone here said the one I picked was fine and I grabbed it. - I like the 2070 Super as the premiere card for 1440p gaming. That seems like the right resolution to target since apparently even the 2080 Ti at more than double the price can struggle to deliver good performance at 4k. I saw a review of this particular model of the 2070 Super that indicated that while it was only slightly more powerful than the FE version, it was way quieter and the quietest high-end GPU they'd ever tested. Also, only being $15 more than the FE was a pleasant surprise. - Nobody has talked about this case on here (I only found it through extensive filtering on the PC Part Picker website), but the few reviews I found online for it were all solid. The size of the case is the max for the space the tower's going to go in (out of sight), and I like that it doesn't have windows and has an emphasis on noise-reduction. The case is actually going to be $110 when I buy it directly off Nanoxia's website; I don't know why they're not included as a merchant on PC Part Picker. - Estimated wattage comes in at 459W. I've seen the rule of thumb that you should go 10-20% higher, which would be 551 W for 20%, but the 550W version is only $40 cheaper. That's really minor from my perspective, and since I've also heard that power supply max wattage output degrades over time and that's the big problem with them, I don't mind at all paying the premium to delay how long that would take. surf rock fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jul 12, 2019 |
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Jul 12, 2019 01:14
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ItBreathes posted:So, what exactly are you planning on doing with this machine? I get the desire to go all out, but it risks leaving silicon sitting around doing nothing. If you're building a gaming, or even a gaming/streaming rig, a 3700X will likely be every bit as good. Similarly, X570 boards are a bit of a bum deal as PCI 4 really isn't worth anything right now or in the forseable future. That said, if you can use the features and/or don't want to risk needing to flash it it's not a bad pickup. 32gb of ram is pretty much pointless unless you're doing something specifically ram heavy, minor points about caching aside, unused ram is wasted. This is all true, and I cannot defend my choices here other than to say that I've wanted a  computer for years, budgeted the money for it, and this was the most computer I could make within that budget (and I don't really have anything else that I want to spend the money on).edit: On the point of wasted silicon, I have been reading the BOINC/Grid computing thread and I'm very intrigued by that. So, my decadent excesses here won't go to complete waste. surf rock fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jul 12, 2019 |
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Jul 12, 2019 04:09
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Stickman posted:Honestly, when you're well into "throwing down money for little or no performance gain", you'd probably be better off saving it for generational GPU upgrades down the line. Top-end GPUs don't stay top-end very long and if Ampere offers real price/performance gains next year you might want to bump up your 2070 Super. Also, throw it at nice monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/headphones/speakers/desk/chair because those all directly affect your experience. I did think about that point, but there are so many questions around Ampere (and the possibility that even if it arrives next year, maybe it'll arrive 18 months from now as a Q4 release and maybe not even desktop-first) that the tradeoff of waiting didn't appeal to me. From the benchmarking and reviews, I know that the 2070 Super can do what I want it to do. Also, fortunately, I've budgeted separately for those other items (or I've already got them; investing in a nice computer chair and mouse was the best money I ever spent). These are what I've got lined up on those scores: - Keyboard: CODE V3 87-Key Mechanical Keyboard - Cherry MX Brown - Speakers: Audioengine HD3 - I don't really use headphones, but I do have a decent pair. Don't remember what model they are. Like I said before, I'm still thinking about the monitors, but here are the two I currently have planned based on Wirecutter recommendations: - Main monitor: HP 2TB68A8 HP Business Z27 4K UHD - Second monitor: Dell Ultra HD 4K Monitor P2415Q 24-Inch I'm not very sensitive to refresh-rate differences and I'll be targeting 60 FPS at 1440p for gaming, but a lot of what I do is video streaming and I want the 4k for that. I know people here really like ultrawides, but I have a two-separate monitor now (and I've used ultrawides before) and I greatly prefer having the separate screens.
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Jul 12, 2019 13:47
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Stickman posted:I don’t mean waiting on the current upgrade, I just mean that if you want to spend money on a powerhouse computer that stays a powerhouse computer, you’ll be better off saving some money on parts that aren’t really adding to current performance (like dropping the 3900x to a 3700x or 3600x) and using that money for regular generational GPU upgrades. That’ll get you the same performance now and better performance later, for probably the same price if you factor in selling your old card. With AM4 you can always drop in a more powerful processor when your current one starts feeling weak. Oh, that's a good point. Thank you for clarifying for me!
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Jul 12, 2019 15:11
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Well, after literally almost three months of reading this forum on a daily basis, almost all of my build parts are now purchased and on the way. It's been a wild ride. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor ($499.99 @ Best Buy) CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($52.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($269.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($209.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($249.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Toshiba X300 5 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($109.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card ($539.99 @ B&H) Case: Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.36 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($140.98 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $2223.16 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-26 20:54 EDT-0400 Could I have economized more and saved myself some money? Yes, absolutely, but this is something I wanted to splurge on very badly and splurge I did. I can't wait to actually put the thing together (my first build!!!), so now I'm looking into the smaller details. I'm wondering about the fans that my case comes with. The product page says it can support six 120 mm fans and that it comes with three. Does anyone have advice on whether that'll suffice given the rest of the build, or if I should be buying another three fans (or swapping out all six)? I don't want them to be LED fans, so this would just be purely about whether or not it's necessary for airflow reasons. Thank you!
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Aug 27, 2019 02:00
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Stickman posted:You don't have anything in there that's generating an inordinate amount of heat, so three should be sufficient. I'd start with that an get a few more if it seems like things are too hot for your tastes. Generally after three fans you're mostly adding noise for not a whole lot of thermal benefit. Got it, thanks! Definitely! Stickman posted:Basically for NVMe drives I look for the cheapest option at the appropriate tier (roughly listed in descending performance order within tiers, so the HP 920 is the best performer in the mid-tier): Oh nice, this is a great post. It makes me think: I know it would be a big undertaking, but the OP could use an update in terms of example builds and quick-pick parts.
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Aug 27, 2019 22:39
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I feel like a loving idiot, I'm so goddamn frustrated right now, I don't know why but I cannot for the life of me remove the side panel from this loving PC case: http://nanoxia-world.com/media/pdf/4d/ed/31/DS3_manual_english.pdf I've literally watched this video where the guy does it but the thing will not loving come off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0fPbNL_UNI I've unscrewed the two feet in the bottom, I've unscrewed the two parts in the back, I'm doing the same side, I don't know why it won't come off. I don't know why. I gouged my goddamn table trying to get the loving thing off, I don't know what I'm doing wrong but it has to be incredibly simple, god loving dammit edit: I figured how to do it like ten seconds after hitting post; I'm exactly as stupid as I thought I was surf rock fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Oct 6, 2019 |
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Oct 6, 2019 20:18
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OK, I have a slightly more advanced question this time. My motherboard has two power connector ports labeled ATX_12V1 and ATX_12V in the upper-left corner next to the IO shield:  So, there's a four pin and an eight pin ports. My power supply has two identical cables for CPU power (that each split into pair of four pin connectors):  This means I have 16 pins coming out of the power supply but only room for 12 pins. Is that OK, and if so, does it matter how they are hooked in? ----- Similarly my graphics card has two eight pin ports side-by-side with each other. The power supply also has two identical cables for VGA power, each of which split into a six pin connector and a two pin connector. I imagine it doesn't matter which of the cables goes into which eight pin port. However, I was wondering if it matters whether the two pin connector is on the left side or the right side. Thank you! I feel like I'm getting close! (I have been doing this for literally six hours)
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Oct 6, 2019 23:33
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Stickman posted:You got this  I have no idea how people do cable management. I just tried to zip tie stuff together as much as possible. I'm a little worried that some of the cables in the upper-left are so close to the CPU cooler heatsink. There's about a quarter-inch gap between them... If they touch in the future, will it catch fire or something? I'm not even going to bother trying it tonight to see if this fucker works. Eight hours later (I imagine people who aren't first-time builders can do it... much faster), I'm tired and need to make dinner.
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Oct 7, 2019 01:14
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OK, I'm a big liar because I did end up hooking the thing up to a monitor and plugging it in to see if it would work. It didn't initially... but it gave an error message saying to plug in the power for the graphics card. Which I had done, but I guess not well enough, so I replugged those cables and then tried again...  GLORIOUS I enabled the XMP profile and that didn't crash the thing, but I'm not sure whether it actually changed given that the DRAM Status numbers stayed the same at 2133MHz. Do any of my numbers look weird? I fixed the date right after taking the photo.
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Oct 7, 2019 02:45
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VelociBacon posted:It won't give you the thicc XMP profile numbers in BIOS pretty sure. Gotta boot it to OS. Oh, OK. I'm going to install Windows 10 tomorrow, so I'll circle back to that. How do I update my bios version? It looks like I'm running the launch version (F3) and that there's now F6b out, so I'm pretty behind. Anything else like this that I should be looking at before installing Windows? I'm going to wait until after I've installed Windows to hook up my HDD since I don't want it to get labeled as the boot drive. Thanks!
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Oct 7, 2019 02:52
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Good news! Following up on yesterday's successful first-ever build (hurray!), I've now updated my BIOS and installed Windows. Since my BIOS screen still shows my memory speed at 2133, I looked around for ways to check it in Windows. Someone suggested command prompt, here's a picture of the results there:  That confirms that my XMP profile is indeed running, right?
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Oct 8, 2019 00:08
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Mu Zeta posted:Weird, your BIOS screen should give the new speeds after a reboot. Can you also check Ryzen Master or HWInfo64? How does this look?  Anything weird here? Also, is there anything else I should be checking in HWInfo64 while I've got it open? Thank you!
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Oct 8, 2019 00:38
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