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ufarn
May 30, 2009
Is it even worth exploring some overclocking of an i5-760, or is it not worth the hassle? I want my computer to remain (fairly) silent, it's just that it's by far the biggest bottlneck in my five-year-old computer at this point.

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ufarn
May 30, 2009

xthetenth posted:

What cooler is that 760 under? Picking up a decent cooler could help you OC now and keep things cool and fast even after you ditch that platform (so no worries about putting money into something on its last legs)
Here's the whole thing. If the GPU sticks out, it's because the old one died and had to be replaced.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

xthetenth posted:

Okay, that's plenty of cooler and should last you forever. Remember to call noctua up if you don't have mounting hardware for your next or next next CPU.
Do they ship special parts or something? It's like five years since I put on the heatsink, so I can't even remember how the hell I mounted it way back when.

I noticed this part of the overclocking article:

quote:

Bear in mind that 1.45V is where Thomas ran into trouble with three of his P55-based motherboards in P55 On A Budget (ASRock, ECS, and MSI all failed in that story). we have a follow-up planned in the next week to address what each vendor is doing to improve those less-expensive models for enthusiasts.

Given that mine is a P55, albeit an ASUS which is not mentioned, I wager I should shoot for sub-1.45V?

Never overclocked anything before, or if I did, it was like ten years ago, so I'm pretty green on the process. If it's trial and error, I guess I'll be fine. You basically just increase the voltage of the CPU or something?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
What's the update cycle like on motherboards, if any, or do they just update whenever? I don't know what new advances there are aside from USB-C/Thunderbolt 3, but are there dumb times to update your motherboard?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Overminty posted:

Probably any card that has at least 4 ports that match what your monitors use, I imagine. I'm taking it when you say no gaming you mean literally nothing that could be graphically intensive like rendering or AutoCAD.
You can daisy chain with DisplayPort 1.2+, though, so one DP port might suffice, depending on the resolutions on the monitors - and possible improvements in throughput for newer DP versions



http://www.displayport.org/cables/driving-multiple-displays-from-a-single-displayport-output/

ufarn
May 30, 2009
What would be the minimum CPU and RAM requirement for a PC that solely encodes and streams video 720p60 at 3,500 kb/s? I have an old i5-760 lying around, but it's been a major bottleneck in general, so I doubt it'd do the job. Also got some GBs of 1600 RAM.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I live in Europe and am getting a GTX 1080, so I'm going with Palit or Gainward, but can someone tell me which of their weird versions I should get with a high-end system?

- Gainward
--- Phoenix
---- Phoenix GS
--- Phoenix GLH
- Palit
--- JetStream
--- Super JetStream
--- GameRock
--- GameRock Premium

From what I understand, the Jetstreams are not really for gaming, but I'm leaving them on just in case. I can just see some higher clocks. I don't plan on overclocking the GFX soon, if ever.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

HMS Boromir posted:

Probably the cheapest among the GameRock/Phoenix models, from what I hear their cooler is great and all non-reference 1080s boost to pretty much the same 1900something MHz out of the box.
Looks like they cost around the same here. Might as well go with the premium version of either I guess. :shrug:

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Bonobos posted:

So what is the go to manufacturer for the gtx 1070 / 1080 this generation? For the 970 it was the msi, but I've been reading mixed reviews about coil whine for the the 1070 and 1080. I'm specifically looking for the quietest possible model, with clock speed and overclock-ability second to it not sounding a jet engine as I'm sensitive to noise. The msi 970 was nice as it was passive when not in use, anyone have any cards they would recommend?

Also I remember reading a few months ago the founder edition gpus for the 1070 and 1080 were binned better for higher overclocks, was that just BS or did anything come of that? Not a fan of the blower style cards but if the new series is quieter than previous gen blower cards and the overclock is potentially higher, is this something I should consider? Case will be phanteks enthoo matx evolv case with a 4790k Devils canyon cpu.
Here's a German benchmark for a quick overview.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

well why not posted:

Work is keen to buy me a 4k monitor, looking at the Samsung U28E590D. it's £328 on Amazon. PLS and 28" look good to me. Don't wanna break their budget, but is there a better deal in the UK?

Mostly used for productivity, maybe watching movies and some gaming (dark souls, Overwatch maybe. Other console ports. Nothing twitchy basically.)

(xpost from monitor thread)
The FlatPanels buyer's guide is usually my go-to place. They also include the calibration settings in their reviews.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Maxmaps posted:

Possibly a dumb question, but is there a functional difference in gaming performance between my 2500k OC'd to 4.00GHz and say a 6600k OC'd to the same speed?

I know the newer ones will be less hot and more energy efficient, but I wonder if I'm maybe missing something or if we've just been stuck in processor speed for a while now.
7xxx (out January) looks like it will have some very nice optimization for codecs, which would be great for streaming (up/down), recording etc. Worth investigating.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Schroeder91 posted:

My friend is looking for a new PC and I'm doing my goddamn best to get him to build instead of buy from one of those pre-built sites. How does this look? Any suggestions? He's a bit of a meathead and just wants the best gaming he can get and play everything on high/ultra. No overclocking, nothing tenchincal. No SSD in favor of getting better other stuff. Pretty much a $1000 console to easily get on to game.

USA
GAMING
~$1000
1920X1080


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI B150M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: *Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini ITX OC Video Card ($384.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($65.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $961.19
Get faster RAM. 3000+. Costs $25 more.

$986.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Can pretty much guarantee you DE:MD is gonna run like rear end no matter what. (It's also not a very good game, but that's me.)

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Yeah, dunno, if it says DDR4-2133 and s/he's going with 2400, there has to be a decent motherboard out there.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
What would a cheap CPU upgrade for this be:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-760 2.8GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P7P55D-E Deluxe ATX LGA1156 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 270X 2GB DirectCU II Video Card

Overwatch recently issued a netcode update that hosed me on CPU usage, and the CPU is very much the bottleneck in the entire setup, and I figure I might be able to use this computer for a year or two, if I just get a better CPU to run stuff like Overwatch and general-purpose stuff.

The RAM, SSD, and GFX are more recent - the RAM and GFX kicked it a bit ago - but the rest is like six years old or something. I don't really feel like blowing $2,000 for a new computer for no new games right now.

Some will probably suggest I OC the CPU, but, again, it's like six years old, and even if I do, I still need to know which CPU to order in case I blow it up trying to figure out how OC works.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Oct 9, 2016

ufarn
May 30, 2009
What are some things you look for and check up on when buying a PSU? They all seem so similar, but I know there are smallish things like noise and whether it's modular or not. Are there reputable brands like with other components?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Anyone know if the beQuiet Dark Base 900 still has the front panel problem where it comes lose by itself, if you lift the case?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

The Slack Lagoon posted:

i7-6900k vs i7-6700k for video editing... Is the price on the i7-6900k worth it over the performance?

My friend is interested in building a rig for 4k video editing. He has this so far, and would welcome feedback. Based on his budget and needs, I feel like the 6700k would be a better value proposition. Also, can anyone comment about doing an external RAID setup for video editing vs an internal?

He uses Avid for editing.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6900K 3.2GHz 8-Core Processor ($1041.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($103.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99P-SLI ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($187.49)
Memory: G.Skill Aegis 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($141.92 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($314.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card ($269.99 @ B&H)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($52.95 @ B&H)
Total: $2353.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-30 16:14 EDT-0400
If you can wait, the next generation of 7XXX are optimized for video and 4K. It's more important when it's a laptop, but still worth the wait if possible. Here's one of the first hits on Google about it.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Is PhysX still a thing?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

FaintlyQuaint posted:

If my goal is to do some streaming, light video encoding (nothing huge or super intensive I hope) along with gaming as my day to day stuff would I be better off waiting for the new i7s at the end of this year/beginning of next year or just jumping on one of the 6800k deals going right now? Price isn't really a concern, I just want to have a smooth and pleasant experience with whatever I happen to be doing.

Edit: I'm fine picking out everything else based off this decision, and I have a 1080 because I make bad life decisions already so upgrading video card and whatnot would feel a bit premature.
NVENC encoding is pretty legit if you want to hold off on upgrading your CPU fwiw.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
What are the general improvements from Z170 mobos to Z270s? Any trend, or is it just a general update in time for Kaby Lake?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Have BeQuiet fixed their loose front latch door in the Dark Base 900, or does it still open when you lift it and stuff?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
My PSU is about to turn 7, so I better replace it with something else. I'm getting a Dark Base 900 case by beQuiet while I'm at it.

Should I go with beQuiet's own Dark Power Pro 11, if I want something sleek, top-of-the-class, and silent, or is there something better out there - like a Seasonic or something?

Also, how do I figure out the watts to go for on it?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Do iGPUs have any relevance to desktop builds? Just in case Ryzen doesn't have them versus Kaby Lake.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I'm thinking about getting a 860W for a futureproof computer with a potential GTX 1080, Z270, and 7700K, CPU heatsink, 2 HDDs, 1 SSD, potential watercooling/multifan, a USB audio interface powering headphones and a mic, and a potential future upgrade with mixer, compressor, and other stuff.

I keep seeing that things are more effective now and so on, but I don't want to run into a potential wattage bottleneck in my extreme edge case.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Col.Kiwi posted:

Nothing you described there is extreme and a system like that might hit 400W power draw from the wall under heavy load, maybe.
Would 660 make more sense, then? I'm toying with a Seasonic Platinum, and 660 seems to be the step down from 860.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Cheers, appreciate it.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
This illegible graph (seen at https://seasonic.com/product/platinum-860/) states the fans turn on depending on % load.



Does % load refer to the wattage draw or something else?

I don’t know how to gauge what the “load” of my system would be, and the % of wattage doesn’t makes sense, since it’d be hard to hit below 30% draw of a <1kW system.

While an automatic three-tier system like this is compelling, I can’t figure out when it triggers, in which case Corsair’s AXi series’s more granular manual contorls might be better.

Anyone know?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Eletriarnation posted:

I'm pretty sure it's the wattage. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you but why do you think that it would be hard to go under 30% load on a 860W power supply? My desktop has a 2500K and a 1060 and idles right around 100W, sometimes as low as 70. I have a Haswell E3 Xeon system that uses the iGPU and it idles as low as 30W.
I meant to get the 660W instead of the 860W. Was just wondering whether "excess" wattage had any tangible benefit, and guess it might for this type of PSU.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
There's no such thing as a perfect computer build. It can always get better, but posting your build will give you most if not all the feedback you need.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Agrajag posted:

i cant even bring myself to touch the cpu man

im so scared of massively loving up something when i try to put it in
It's extremely idiot proof. Just make sure you shut off the computer on the PSU behind and pull out the power cord before you touch anything, and don't generate any static electricity, and there's basically no way you could mess it up. I've sure tried.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Blinkz0rz posted:

I'm interested in moving away from a desktop footprint to a mini pc. Are there any out there that are worthwhile? I'm looking for an i7 with the "best" integrated graphics I can find.
There's a dedicated SFF/miniITX thread fwiw.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

Bass Bottles posted:

I'm new to the world of DIY computers but in a situation like this, couldn't you take the computer to a computer repair shop for a diagnosis? I feel like they should have a bunch of spare parts sitting around for testing purposes.

But I dunno, no one ever suggests that so maybe it's not a thing. It just seems like the major roadblock to solving your issue is being unable to isolate the different components for testing without tossing random RMAs to the wind.
Depends on the country, what's available in your area etc, but I was surprised to find I had a local shop in the year 2016. They took in my PC, ran some tests, tried other parts, and it worked out fine.

In the US, companies like Best Buy have deals with FBI to monitor computers in for repairs, so, uh, caveat emptor.

In any case, don't include any HDDs beyond the one with your OS.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Since you're getting the ASUS motherboard and GFX, you could also get the RGB version of the Trident Z with, well, RGB lighting. Some people like that stuff, and both your motherboard and GFX support ASUS's "Aura", which is the synchronized lighting system.

That way, you can use synchronized lighting for both motherboard, graphics card, and an LED stripped connected to your motherboard header. The Trident Z RGBs don't support Aura sync, but just to let you know that there's a lighting option for you if you so desire.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

I said come in! posted:

Instead of buying a computer, I am trying to sell one. A coworker of mine is interested but i'm not sure what a fair price would be, the specs is as follows:

Intel i5-2500K
16GB DDR3 RAM
Nvidia GTX 970 4GB DDR5
Samsung 256GB SSD
Western Digital 1TB HDD
600 watt power supply
Motherboard with two USB 3.0 ports and four USB 2.0 ports.
I guess you could enter them in PCPP and cut the price by x% depending on what you feel the value depreciation is.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

KyleeBitkin posted:

So I bought this GTX 1080 from Newegg the other day, but I just noticed a discrepancy in the ad and the pictures.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125936

It says it is the Windforce OC cooler, but the model number is listed as the founders edition in the description for the product and the title. Is there any way to actually know which one I got, or did I just spin a wheel of prizes?
Here's an archive link, if it still has the original text: https://web.archive.org/web/20170206175854/https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125936.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Can someone tell me the difference between the SKUs “SSR-750TD Active PFC F3” and “SSR-750TD” (Seasonic Prime 750W) and which to get? The one with the long name is the most expensive one by +15%.

In one shop, the Active PFC F3 has the name “Seasonic Prime Titanium 750W ATX 2.4 (SSR-750TD) (SSR-750TD Active PFC)”, if that makes things any clearer.

ufarn fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Feb 8, 2017

ufarn
May 30, 2009
Sounds like the Active PFC might be the way to go then. I thought buying components was tricky enough as it is, and then I notice something like this.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
The Trident Z G.SKILL sticks have better clearance than your Ripjaws. I'm not sure how big your heatsink is, so someone else will have to chime in.

With a new motherboard like that, you might be able to get something higher than 3200 for your RAM without too much of a price hike, but that's just something to double check.

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ufarn
May 30, 2009
It wasn't too long ago that Nvidia had a driver update that broke a lot of stuff. Can't remember the specifics, but at worst, they're probably both bad at drivers.

AMD's software interface is still a bit of a mess, though, but the update process is snazzier than ever.

GPU video encoding with AMF also works flawlessly.

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