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Tezzeract posted:Any tips on a GPU upgrade for the HP 6300? That sounds about right since it's a small form factor so full size graphics cards won't fit.
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# ¿ May 29, 2016 20:49 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 12:47 |
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Fauxtool posted:my 2500k has been running really hot recently during this heat wave. The cooler is a corsair h80i v2, the one with the thick single rad and push pull fans. The Tcase of the i5-2500K is 72.6 C. This is the maximum temp at the integrated heat spreader. Your CPU will throttle itself down to sub 1ghz levels at 99C to prevent from physically burning up. 98C is definitely too hot at it may already be throttling there. You have a large overclock but I think your cooler must have some kind of problem if it's running that hot. Even the idle temperature is high for an idle temp (you should be 30-35C idle with a decent cooler). I'd immediately get a new cooler or attempt to re-paste and remount that one and hope for better results. You should not run it that hot.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2016 09:17 |
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Fauxtool posted:is the idle too high even if it super hot today like 40c? No, in that case, 10 C over room temp is reasonable. The high end is definitely too high, though. I'm not sure if your single rad unit is unable to keep up with the heat or if it's malfunctioning for sure, but if it's as old as the CPU it may be the latter. Has it run this hot in previous years? Does it get to 70 C when it's 20 C out?
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2016 09:31 |
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Shine posted:My dad's ancient computer needs replacing, and I decided to go with the budget option in the OP: a Dell Inspirion 3847 with an upgraded video card. Dell Outlet has a promotion right now so I snagged a 3847 for about $315. The Dell power supply won't have PCI-E power cables, just the bare minimum for what's in the case (and one spare sata power in case you add a second HD). So, you can either go with a card that's entirely bus-powered like some models of 750Ti or replace the PSU with something more capable. You can easily replace it on the mid tower models since they're standard ATX, although you should measure the length of the PSU before buying a replacement and check the length of it because some longer power supplies (usually modular or partially modular PSUs are longer due to the extra space for the modular jacks) won't always fit correctly with some of the dell side panel hardware or PSU mounting bracket.
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# ¿ Jun 21, 2016 06:11 |
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Tony Homo posted:Just got my ssd drive and the seagate hd and don't know what connectors they use. I'm so used to the big ribbon connectors of eons ago and the big power connectors. These are super small connectors. Read the explanation of the motherboard and it comes with sata cables. The powerbox that I bought doesn't have any connectors that fit such small power connectors on both of them. I read I need "molex" adaptor for a sata power cable? Does that sound right? Each drive will need one SATA power connector (the big one of the two): and one SATA data cable (the smaller of the two): The modular power supply probably has sata power cables as a separate cable you need to plug in and run to where the disks are in the case. The data cables go to the sata ports on the motherboard (it's best to hook up the SSD to the Intel sata ports and install windows on it first, then plug in the secondary disk later so windows doesn't put stuff on the wrong disk). edit: also note that the connectors are keyed so they can't go on upside down. There's a little downwards bit on the end of each.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2016 08:39 |
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Zotix posted:I'm really wanting to upgrade myself. I built my pc in 2012, it's a 3570k, and a year later I bought a 780gtx. It's basically been the same since. I just dont know if I want to build a pc now, or wait until later in the year. I'm not a star citizen fan boy, but I'll likely play it, and I'd like to have a rig that runs it with no hiccups. I feel like Kaby Lake may not come out this year, and the improvements will likely only be marginal. I also am hesitant to get a 1080 since a Ti might be out before Xmas, or it might not. If I don't get a 1080, then I'd probably get a 1070, but AMD has some nice budget cards dropping in a few days. I know I can never really future proof, but I'd like to future proof the best I can based on the best time to buy. Well, as you know, it's almost impossible to buy the best thing at the perfect time because there's new stuff every 6-12 months (for the most part). You don't mention what kind of screen you're using. If it's 1920x1080 @ 60hz you're probably fine as is until you find a game that won't give you 60hz. If you're going for a higher resolution screen and/or higher framerates then a beefier video card will be a good idea. The 3570K should be fine for a while yet. Is yours overclocked decently? If I had to give a general rule for upgrading it's "upgrade when you find something you can't run as well as you want it to."
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# ¿ Jun 27, 2016 21:44 |
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TheBigAristotle posted:I suppose I should have done more than leave this quote here, but I'm wondering if maybe my motherboard or CPU should be my next upgrade. I figure in a year or so I'll probably upgrade my gpu. The AMD FX CPU line is old and not good. You're going to want to pick up new Intel stuff, especially for gaming. This means motherboard and CPU. If you buy Haswell (4th gen) stuff you can probably reuse your RAM. If you buy Skylake stuff (current 6th gen stuff) you'll need new ram as well because it mostly uses DDR4. If you go with Haswell you should consider the i5-4690K or i7-4790K CPU (the i5 is fine for gaming but the i7 has higher stock clocks before overclocking) and a Z97 chipset motherboard. You'd be looking at spending $300-400 on motherboard and cpu. If you go with Skylake you can look at a lot of the recently posted builds. You'll probably just want the i5 here, an i5-6600K and Z170 chipset motherboard for overclocking or an i5-6500 and H170 chipset motherboard for normal use. You'll be looking at spending $300-350 on motherboard and CPU + around $50-100 on RAM.
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2016 16:42 |
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Zero The Hero posted:Can anyone tell me the difference between these "different" series of ram? From the provided specs the difference is cosmetic. It's likely that the heat spreaders are it.
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# ¿ Jul 1, 2016 16:01 |
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Zero The Hero posted:Anyone have any opinions on this external hard drive? I'm not sure about that external in particular, generally I'm not a huge fan of external disks or seagate in particular. That said, any external that has a 3.5" hard disk in it is going to require additional power. You can get externals that have 2.5" laptop drives in them instead which can draw enough power from USB to run but I think the max capacity is around 2TB on those.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2016 22:36 |
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Bass Bottles posted:I'm a long time Mac user and console gamer who has been looking into getting a gaming PC for the first time. My hopes and dreams are: quiet, able to run Xbox One "exclusives" and crazy indie games, can be placed horizontally in my media center. I'm not looking for top end visuals, just 1080p/60fps would be nice.... You don't want that PC. The video card will have to be replaced to have decent performance and the SSD is of unknown quality. You can place any midtower on its side, although the optical drive (if any) will need to support loading discs vertically (some have little grabbers in the tray for this). There's some low-ish cost builds in the thread that will be better than that for around the same price, but you'll have to assemble it yourself.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2016 04:20 |
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Bass Bottles posted:I've read a lot that cases plan their cooling systems around heat "rising to the top" and that putting them sideways is not recommended, so I'm very nervous about the idea of putting a normal tower sideways. Though honestly, if I were to build a PC I doubt I'd include an optical drive. It depends on the case but most pull in from the front/side and out of the back. A tower is basically a desktop case turned sideways (which is why the motherboard is vertical). If you put it so the motherboard is on the bottom, that's fine too.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2016 04:28 |
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Bass Bottles posted:I've read a lot that cases plan their cooling systems around heat "rising to the top" and that putting them sideways is not recommended, so I'm very nervous about the idea of putting a normal tower sideways. Though honestly, if I were to build a PC I doubt I'd include an optical drive. I asked over in the small form factor/mini-itx thread for you in case someone reading that thread might have come across some prebuilts that fit the bill but the best fit so far, and what you may want to look at, is the Dell Alienware Alpha. It's super tiny and uses a mobile GPU, but it's around $500 (sometimes less if there's a sale) and is basically a console sized windows PC (it's actually smaller than a lot of consoles). There's not much room for expansion in it and it may not play top tier games at 60 FPS but it's not terrible and is reasonably priced. I've seen them on sale for as low as ~$320 but that's very infrequent: http://www.dell.com/us/p/alienware-alpha/pd?oc=dkcwa05hbts
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2016 08:45 |
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rizuhbull posted:$~400 but I might be convinced to go higher, 1080/60fps and ShadowPlay is a must unfortunately. Isn't graphical fidelity just a catch-all term for the former two things? Resolution, settings, etc? I'd like to play on max settings for at least a couple years going forward. I'm hoping that's possible because I plan on sticking to 1080 for awhile. Rendering video is a task that is easy to break up into different threads so an i7 would beat your i5 for it (20% gains for highly threaded tasks is normal). If you're considering a CPU swap then the best your board could handle is an i7-4790K which would be the fastest clock speed CPU for that socket type. It's a -K but you won't be overclocking, it's clocked to 4ghz/4.4ghz turbo out of the box which is pretty great (faster than any other CPU Intel has that I'm aware of). The CPU is around $300, however. If you also need a video card the 970 is good for high to ultra 1080 at 60fps with current games. The main downside to it is that it's now one generation old, which is why it's down in the $200 range (while this is normal price for a used one, there was a new one for sale that low in the last week, so there may be other sales since manufacturers are now trying to get rid of old stock). The 1070 is a better card by a good amount but it's around $400 and is a bit overkill for 1080 resolution currently unless you're going for higher refresh rates. That said, new games will likely require more video card power in the next few years so if you're planning to use it for a while the 1070 may be a safer bet. I can't tell the future of game performance and what you'll be playing so I can't say which is the best choice for your uses. Rendering video could also be done on a secondary machine if you're game to really throw money at the problem (and the time savings would probably be worth considering) but that's a whole separate subject where we'd be looking at the most cores and ram for the buck instead of just trying to maximize what you have now.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2016 09:52 |
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Man_of_Teflon posted:I have an older computer with an AMD 945 Phenom X4 and NVIDIA GT 440. The AMD FX line of CPUs is a dumpster fire except for highly threaded tasks (they are bad for most games). I wouldn't even bother trying to upgrade that CPU, it's just throwing money away that could be better saved for a new Intel build. A video card may help some but a lot of games will be strenuous for your CPU. I'm not sure about Overwatch specifically, since Blizzard usually tries for lower specs and wider compatibility, but it might work out. That said, since the CPU is 7 years old (and the FX line is basically 5) you will eventually need to step up to something new.
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 05:48 |
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Rookersh posted:Well this is a fun hell. External drives aren't that reliable in general. You'd think they're just internal drives in cases but it seems like they fail more often due to heat issues or being knocked over or having lovely sata to USB controllers or whatever. If you really want one I'd shop for a small 2.5" one since they use laptop drives which are a little more tolerant of movement and don't require an additional power brick. They also run cooler. Buy whatever is cheapest between Seagate and WD, there's no huge difference: https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Elements-Portable-WDBU6Y0020BBK-EESN/dp/B00DULWSXI/ https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Portable-External-STEA2000400/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ For your home system I'd also look at getting some 4 or 5TB disks next time you get low on space. They're reasonably cheap (120-180 bucks) just make sure that if your stuff is essential you back it up. Having one copy of anything essential means you're going to lose it eventually. This goes for now and later, plan for some redundancy. The SSD is a good idea for a boot disk, it's the biggest upgrade in general PC performance you can get these days and 500GB disks are 150 bucks or less pretty regularly.
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 22:27 |
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Ciaphas posted:I'm considering the Haswell->Skylake upgrade I asked about upthread (link to last post in conversation) again, because I've stumbled into a little extra money. Question: do we know if a successor to Skylake is in the very near future, and if its characteristics lead anyone to believe it will be a massive jump over Skylake? Kaby Lake is scheduled for early 2017 and is a Skylake refresh. It will probably have small clock speed increases and possibly some additional features. I doubt it will have anything you can't live without.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2016 00:33 |
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Professor Moriarty posted:CPU If you're brave and don't mind cutting some plastic out of your CPU socket you might consider putting an LGA771 Xeon in that LGA775 socket. I did it with a couple of MSI boards recently and got 4 cores with 12 MB of cache for $20 + a cheap sticker thing. Read about it here: http://www.delidded.com/lga-771-to-775-adapter/ If it's your only computer it may not be the best idea. The machines I did worked great but they got upgraded out of an office and were left to me to use/fix/donate as I see fit.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2016 04:20 |
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Shumagorath posted:If I've got a 650-750W Corsair (forget which) is there any reason not to reuse that PSU in a new system? If anything the power draw will be less but it's getting on 5 years old and I've done the Saturday-afternoon-dead-PSU panic run before. If it's a CX and/or Builder series you want to replace it. If it's a different unit and the warranty is still okay you should be alright for a while longer, but if the warranty is up you should get a new one. The general rule in the thread is 5 years or the warranty length, whichever is longer.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2016 07:15 |
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Bleh Maestro posted:Can anyone recommend a USB 4-port+ hub that actually has a length of cord that will reach from the front / back of my PC to my desk where I can reach it easily? You may have to be a bit more specific about the distance, but there's always the option of a good hub and replacing the stock 2' or 3' cable it comes with. For example, an Anker with a superspeed cable: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charging-Adapter-Included-VL812-B2/dp/B014ZQ07NE/ Then a 10' cord (15' is only $1 more): https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Type-Black/dp/B00C7RZPJ0/ Of course on that model you may end up with a short power cable. This one has a 3' USB and a 6' power cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZGKWQI/ There's also just a USB extension if you already have one you like and it doesn't quite reach: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00CFL6ARO/
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2016 19:34 |
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ihatepants posted:I just got all my components delivered today and am starting to put it all together. I just am not sure about one thing. I've got a be quiet Dark Base Pro 900 case and an EVGA 650GQ PSU. Am I supposed to be mounting the PSU with the fan facing up or down? You can mount it either way. If the fan is up it will pull air out of the case and out of the back of the PSU. If it's down, it will pull air in the bottom and out the back of the PSU. I prefer to mount them fan down if there's an opening in the bottom of the case because it just gets room temperature air and cycles it back out of the PSU. I keep my PC on a hard floor, though, and if you have yours on a carpet it may be more complicated. In reality it probably won't make a huge difference to your case temperatures so you should just do what you prefer.
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2016 22:16 |
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ihatepants posted:Thanks. I guess I will place it fan down because the PSU is completely inside of the case and doesn't touch the rear wall of the case at all. That way it'll pull in room temperature air and expel it into the case itself? Yeah the internal PSU mount is a little weird on that case, but I'd probably still put the fan down so it's getting cool air from the bottom.
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2016 22:34 |
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Enigma posted:Any suggestions for an intake? That's a really unusual size so I'm not sure if you're going to find anything easily. I haven't been able to with some cursory searches. Most 120mm fans are 25mm thick so the main slim one I found is 12mm: https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Slip-Stream-120mm-SY1212SL12L/dp/B002CYPWTG It doesn't move as much air as a regular fan since it's so thin. Deepcool has a UPC for 120x120x10mm fan but every page I can find it on lists it as 20mm thick, so the 10mm may just be a typo: http://www.upcindex.com/6933412712176 https://www.amazon.com/Deepcool-Gamer-Storm-Computer-Connector/dp/B00KJF1ZM8
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2016 01:46 |
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Bass Bottles posted:PC Parts Picker says this PSU is incompatible with the Node 202 case. Anyone have any idea why? The node 202 is a super small case so it only takes SFX sized power supplies. Enigma linked an ATX one (which is much larger) because the price vs. wattage seemed off on the SFX one, but he didn't realize it was SFX and it will cost more per watt simply due to being small. So the ATX one won't fit and you're paying a bit more for the small size, but you should probably go with your original linked one or another good gold 80+ model like Silverstone which is going to cost about the same anyway: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Factor-BRONZE-ST45SF/dp/B003H4QPDC
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2016 05:34 |
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Avalanche posted:Hey goons. Build my first ever PC all by myself! (Well, maybe not first ever since I've pretty much replaced/installed every single component possible in other lovely dell boxes over the years but still). I have some concerns on cooling, airflow, and cable management with this build. Since you pulled the heatsink off the CPU after pushing it down on the thermal paste you might want to reapply it but gererally your temps sound normal. Prime95 and Intel Burn Test and other utils like that intentionally use instructions that cause the CPU to heat up way beyond normal usage temps. The reason everything got all lovely when you ran everything at once is that your CPU clocked itself down to like 800mhz or something to save itself from burning to death at 99C (don't do this). Your temps seem fine otherwise, I'd probably leave it alone but maybe repasting the CPU heatsink just in case you got some air bubbles trapped in the paste. To repaste it use some high % rubbing alcohol and low lint products (coffee filters or good quality paper towels or something) to wipe/roll off the old paste from the heatsink and CPU. Reapply your thermal paste as a pea sized dot in the middle then put the heatsink back down and don't move it except from very slight side to side or very small rotations just to get it to line up. This may smush the paste around a little but don't pick it back up. Picking it up makes the paste sort of peel off both sides and putting it back down afterwards can cause bubbles which can make spots of poor thermal conductivity. As for fan positioning and the side panel it seems like a weird case that's got a kind of unique layout so the general rules may not apply. For a regular case you pull air in from the bottom/front/side and out the top/back. You also shoot for more air intake than output to keep a slight positive pressure inside the case so that dust won't clog up every opening in the case. With that case I'm not sure how you'd achieve that, especially if all of the fans are on the top. It seems like, based on the diagrams on newegg, you're using it as intended:
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2016 10:51 |
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Avalanche posted:Thanks for the responses guys. It really doesn't matter that much, it's kind of a nerdy "I know best because I do it this way" thing. There's been a lot of testing and from what I saw the thin line seems to be the best coverage of the core under the heatspreader (I think this was for Haswell specifically, not sure where you're aiming for under the heatspreader on skylake), the pea is normal because it gets you a big circle that covers the core. I believe, however, that spreading it yourself can introduce bubbles because you can't necessarily get it completely flat and they don't mill the bottom of the heatsink completely flat, so letting it squeeze out like from a pea or line should fill in any tiny gaps more completely than pushing them onto a flat surface of paste. But you can just do what you want, there won't be a significant difference in temps as long as you don't pick it up after you put it down.
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2016 11:49 |
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Bass Bottles posted:I'm trying to install my CPU into an ASUS B150i Motherboard, but it has this extra piece of plastic that is giving me trouble. You just lie it in there and close the top with the handle, it doesn't snap into anything. Make sure it's oriented the right way (there's a gold corner that points at an arrow usually). The mechanism you close it with holds the CPU down with the amount of pressure it needs to contact the pins in the socket well. Don't touch the pins or the bottom of the CPU.
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2016 16:42 |
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80k posted:Can someone with a Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO answer this question? You can put the fans on either direction on it. There's also very little difference in push/pull on the 212. I can't remember the source off the top of my head but we went over some different configs in the thread a couple of years ago and someone found an article with testing that someone had done that indicated it was fine with pretty much whichever config as long as air flowed through the fins. I also just looked at my spare one and there's no front side, it's almost symmetrical (the heat pipes aren't all the same but the fins are which is what will matter.)
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2016 09:52 |
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This is a pretty good uninterruptible power supply, I've used 4 or 5 of them and they're good stuff. McCracAttack posted:We use these for our workstations. They really just protect against random power blinks and if the power goes all the way out you have 5 minutes or so to save your work. That's not going to provide enough power for his overclocked gaming PC if it's running something when the power goes out. He'll likely be pulling 300 Watts or more from the wall/UPS, and 350VA isn't enough for that. APC is a good brand but he definitely wants more capacity and sine-wave.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2016 22:30 |
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nerox posted:I have a i53570k (Ivy Bridge) running at 4ghz. My video card is currently a GTX660Ti. Yes!
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2016 03:23 |
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MacDeuce posted:First of all here’s by current build: Just because the power supply runs on its own doesn't mean that it's capable of supporting the PC, but it's probably not the first thing I'd replace. First I'd look at the motherboard and see if any of the capacitors are exploded. If not, I'd reseat the video card and ram (or even try to run without them and with one stick of RAM). I'd also reseat all of the power connectors and then clear the CMOS. Here's a link to the manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8P67-M_PRO/E6426_P8P67-M_PRO.zip The manual has the different LEDs and what they're for on 1-36 which may help narrow it down. The jumper for clearing the cmos clock ram is shown on 1-24 and is in the lower right.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2016 20:47 |
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Generally speaking, is it pretty easy to cram a respectable Intel CPU on a mini-ITX into a case that is less than a foot on any particular dimension? I see quite a few of them, but the power supplies all go around 150W, which scares me. I assume if I just need on-board video, it's fine, but I'd want a video card in mine. Outside of a hard disk, I wouldn't have anything else to cram into them. Yeah it's totally possible, although if you need a graphics card you need to go a little bigger. You generally don't use the 150 W power supply that comes with it unless you're just running a CPU and motherboard, there's a lot of SFX and other small sized PSUs available, they just cost a bit more than the ATX ones. Check out: The SFF and Mini-ITX Thread
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# ¿ Aug 6, 2016 06:00 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I bought the SA Penny-Pincer, the Dell Inspiron 3847 ]with Intel Core i5. I'm saving pennies to put a graphics card into it. It has a 300W power supply, brand name unknown. Should I replace it when I add the graphics card? You will almost definitely need a new power supply unless you're buying a super low power GPU (GTX 750 or something). Most third party graphics cards require additional power cables to be hooked up to them which the Dell PSU won't have and, depending on model, will require more power than the PSU can deliver. If you have a graphics card in mind we can make suggestions but another consideration is that not all ATX power supplies fit into dell cases just due to the length. Modular PSUs are popular because they're easy to work with but they're often longer and may not fit correctly. It wouldn't hurt to measure the length of your current one before ordering a new one.
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2016 23:32 |
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Ciaphas posted:I'm not really familiar with the world of workstation / server hardware. Is something like this dell t310 for $200 actually a good deal? I'd like to install ESXi on it and--besides installing Plex on one VM--try my hand at setting up stuff I'm not too familiar with, like setting it up as a router/VPN or NAS (or both???). For virtual machines you want a) lots of cores b) lots of RAM That machine is kind of old but isn't terrible, but you're going to want at least one of the quad core cpu options it offers (which costs extra) and some RAM (costs extra). I'd shoot for 16 or 32gb depending on how many VMs you'll be running, although the number may depend on how many cores you have in the system and how busy your VMs will be. Some general eccentricities with server hardware include things like specialty hard disk sleds which cost more, weird network interfaces (I think that particular one looks okay) and stuff like ECC RAM (not sure on that one but ECC isn't bad, just usually costs a little more). Because there's a million Xeons with a weird numbering scheme it's worth looking up what you're getting on Intel ARK. For that T310 you're looking at http://ark.intel.com/products/42927/Intel-Xeon-Processor-X3430-8M-Cache-2_40-GHz which shows that that's quad core 95 Watt TDP xeon from 2009. It's not terrible but it's not as efficient as something new. It's roughly equivalent to an i5 from the first generation they called quad core desktop CPUs i5. Skylake is 6th generation so the T310 is a little long in the tooth. It's not terrible but there's new virtualization features with newer chipsets. Take a look at the home lab thread which suggests building a whitebox system over buying older enterprise stuff. I'm currently running ESXi on an AMD FX-8300 with 32gb of ram and a dell optiplex i5-2500 with 20gb of ram and both work decently (well the AMD had a non-intel NIC so it was a pain to get working in ESXi). The AMD build wasn't too pricey but I had a case and PSU already. The optiplex was dell refurbished for about $180 and I tossed in 16gb of RAM.
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2016 06:56 |
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Ciaphas posted:Cool, thanks a lot for the info. It'd be dishonest of me if I didn't say I kinda wanted to be lazy about this and buy something prebuilt, but that's hardly the point of this thread is it Don't let me entirely dissuade you, used hardware has the advantage of being ready to run and can be cheaper since you get everything. I'd just be more concerned with 2009 era stuff in 2016. I did just buy the 2011 optiplex myself, though.
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# ¿ Aug 16, 2016 07:21 |
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Aesculus posted:Holy poo poo I can get a i7 3930k (used) for literally 100bux less than a new skylake 6600k. Is this a good idea? That depends what you want your PC to do. If you'd like new features and the (arguably) best single core performance, go Skylake. If you want lots of cores, get an extreme edition CPU like that one or an engineering sample xeon or something.
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2016 09:41 |
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jauk3n posted:if I have 8gb of ram. will an 8gb video card affect that? No, video ram on the video card is used to hold textures and stuff from games or 3d application and is accessed by the GPU. PC ram holds the data from running programs and is accessed by the CPU. They do similar jobs but aren't exactly related.
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2016 03:09 |
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Krakkles posted:Hey y'all! It's been awhile since I've come through these parts, but I wanted to seek some advice. Overclock the CPU and get a new video card, probably a GTX 1060 or something. Optionally you could add 8gb more RAM, but you'd probably notice if you're running out of memory.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2016 04:22 |
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Cytokinesis posted:I've been waffling back and forth on buying a new PC for a while now, because I feel like my current one is having trouble running games. I'd need a new monitor to go with the computer as I'm currently using a 1080p TV, but I'd want to go all the way to a 1440/144 IPS panel rather than sidegrading and that's a big chunk of change. How badly does this seem to be in need of an upgrade? Your PC is about 7 years old so it's definitely time to upgrade. A modern Intel system will be a huge improvement.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2016 16:32 |
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VulgarandStupid posted:Has anyone ever used internal wifi antennas in a desktop? I'm getting a motherboard that has a short m.2 slot for a wifi card, and I already have an extra one to slip into that slot. The question is if I should just drill two holes in the back plate and use screw on antennas or try using an internal antenna? My case is a RVZ02, so it is a metal case. What generally yields a better wifi signal? I'd rather just do it once, when I swap the motherboard in, because drilling holes into a metal plate once the motherboard is installed is a bad idea. A desktop case is basically grounded metal, which makes a faraday cage. Very little radio should be able to get in or out. You'll definitely want an external antenna of some kind.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2016 08:25 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 12:47 |
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Xarn posted:I swear building PCs used to be easier. There's a lot of standoff holes that count as ATX mounting but aren't used for every board. Most consumer boards use the 9 that consist of 3 along the back (by the IO plate and cards), 3 in the middle, and 3 on the front (by connectors). That's not a rule, though. I just repurposed an ATX board from a 1U Supermicro server that has a nonstandard hole in the top edge and one of the middle holes is down and to the right of the "normal" spacing because it's a weird dual CPU board so nothing lines up right. The best thing to do is to put in the normal standoffs and lay the board in there and look into the mounting holes to see which ones are visible or not and pull it out and adjust. I think they use a 5mm nut driver but you can just use pliers to remove them or tighten them, usually. It's also not usually the end of the world if one of your standoffs just doesn't fit, but I'd expect most retail boards and the R5 to be compatible.
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2016 00:35 |