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So it looks like I need a new CPU to handle games now. Running an i5 2550 with a 760, minimum spec for bf1 is i5 6600 and 660. If I buy one of the non overclocking motherboards in the OP, does that mean its not ideal or that they flat can't. Cause in another 5 years when I get to this stage again I'd like to overclock, but I won't until then. I'll also have to buy windows again won't I?
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Oct 23, 2016 10:32
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Fauxtool posted:min spec on bf1 is bullshit. people ran it well on systems way lower than minimum in beta I get a fucktonne of lag in multiplayer and my cpu sits at 100%
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Oct 23, 2016 10:52
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Fauxtool posted:thats not the whole story, what settings and what is the gpu load Frame drops all over the place, not sure what the GPU load is. Everything is the lowest it will go.
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Oct 23, 2016 11:08
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FWIW I had excellent performance in the SP.
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Oct 23, 2016 11:34
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VelociBacon posted:GPU load will be 100% as well most likely. How can I log it so I can see? CPU usage i was going off the logitech app thing on my keyboard
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Oct 23, 2016 13:00
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I can't find the xbox app when I search for it, but pressing win + G in game, the record last 30s feature is disabled. Should I disable shadowplay?  Also thats very not good. This is me sitting on the loading screen. I'm gunna go buy a cpu cooler tomorrow and see how it handles BF1 then cause the oem intel one is 5 years old, and well. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Oct 23, 2016 |
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Oct 23, 2016 13:33
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HMS Boromir posted:Yep, looks like your CPU is overheating and throttling. The throttling should have prevented any permanent damage so hopefully you'll be good to go with a new cooler. Who knows how long its been doing this though  Did a test round of overwatch, 90 degrees. Thats a game I've never had issues with graphically.
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Oct 23, 2016 13:48
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So what would give me the better bang for buck performance wise? i5 2500- i5 6600k or 760-1060? Getting a new cooler lowered my max temps in BF1 to 60 degrees and it's playable, but I get drops when big things happen. I don't know map names yet but the linear forest one played really good until there were a tonne of friendlies on my screen.
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Oct 24, 2016 09:40
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It's a non K. Currently both the CPU/GPU are running at 100% in BF1. Game looks fine on low to me, but I want steady frames, no drops. Also I'm Australian so its gunna cost a fair bit more for either option
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Oct 24, 2016 12:12
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VelociBacon posted:You keep mentioning the 100% thing - games will cause 100% load on cpu/gpu for basically every system. I wasn't smart in like 2011 when I bought it. It's gunna cost me 600ish for a 1070, less for a 1060, or 700ish for an i5 6600+16gb ram+z170 underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 13:34
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http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=35880 http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=35726 Whats the difference between those 2? Why does 1 get double the fans for the same money? Whats the best 1070?
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Jun 10, 2017 11:43
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Its a little confusing that an objectively worse card is the same money by the same company I'll swap to the MSI one, cold is really good. What do you think of this ram? Its the cheapest 16gb DDR4 at umart, doesn't have the fancy cost adding heatsinks http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=37487 E: And this motherboard for a ryzen 5 1600x http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=38368 Going for a decent gaming rig, have a harddrive and SSD already. I just need a CPU, Ram, MOBO, GPU, and a new PSU just to be safe. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 12:07 on Jun 10, 2017 |
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Jun 10, 2017 12:05
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I mean, I'm not gunna be looking at it. I thought the heatsinks did nothing of value except add cost? E: Thats what I got told ITT last time I got ram anyway. That was probably years ago though. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Jun 10, 2017 |
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Jun 10, 2017 12:34
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Alright so my final build: Stuff discussed ITT already CPU: Ryzen 5 1600x $345 MOBO: Asus Prime b350M-a $119 GPU: MSI 1070 $589 http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=37110 New stuff: SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 256SSD $139 HDD: WD Blue 2tb $94 This is in conjunction with a WD Blue 1tb and samsung 840 evo (I think) SSD that are a few years old from my previous PC PSU, I currently have an antec edge 650w. It came out in 2013, I'm not sure if I need to replace it or if I can keep my old one? is 550w enough to power everything so far? Old one: http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=706887&fid=5022132&lan=nz Stuff recommended to me already: http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=33430 http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=38753 RAM http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=33296 Corsair 16GB 3000mhz DDR4 $189 CPU Cooler http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=19152 That should work with AM4 right? It doesn't explicitly say on a lot of them Also, wheres the best place to buy Windows? I figure I have to rebuy it because I'm getting a new motherboard? I'm currently running windows 10, that was upgraded from windows 8, that my friend got for free from his uni. I'm pretty sure the license was supposed to expire when he graduated but I still get updates and I have no way of knowing whether or not it counts as an OEM key or anything like that. Can anyone recommend a good case with excellent airflow? . I kinda like the looks of this one http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=34747 But I know 0 about airflow. My priorities are airflow and price, but I'd prefer to have something subtle if possible. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 05:30
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BIG HEADLINE posted:This is the only AM4-certified cooler on UMart: http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=38408 I'll grab that then. What are your thoughts on the PSU/case situation? They are the parts I'm not so sure about
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Jun 14, 2017 06:18
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If I am happy with my 1920*1200 monitor and have no plans for the forseeable future to upgrade to 1440p+, would a 1060 be a good choice as a money saver? Will it max out current titles (and hopefully some future ones)? I really just want solid 60fps and for the games to look good.
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Jun 15, 2017 07:55
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Prettz posted:Yeah the 6GB 1060 will keep you good for some time. You have to go up to gimmick resolutions with AA maxed on current games to get FPS under 60. Yeah some of the prices are a little ludicrous http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=36087 How is that one though? Looks like it has good cooling?
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Jun 16, 2017 00:56
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Prettz posted:$365 dollars for a $240 card. Awesome. 240 usd? Umarts an aus site, so gotta pay australia tax + our dollars not great
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Jun 16, 2017 04:36
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We Know Catheters posted:I have an i5 Thats like saying you have a corolla in terms of how much info it gives, intel had been using 'i5' as a name forever. Its the numbers after that tell people how old it is.
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Jun 17, 2017 23:58
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I'm just triple checking everything CMK16GX4M2B3000C15 Thats the serial for the ram I was going to go with for a ryzen 5 1600x build I'm checking the QVL for the asus prime b350m-a board: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/PRIME_B350M-A/PRIME_B350M-A_Memory_QVL_20170522.pdf The ram is 3000mhz. On the qvl it says it supports it at 2133, and theres another entry saying it supports it at DOCP2933. What does that mean? Does that matter? E: Ok for Ryzen it supports it at DOCP2933. Is that important? Should I pick another board? underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 11:39 on Jun 18, 2017 |
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Jun 18, 2017 11:32
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defaultluser posted:3000 isn't actually a valid DDR4 ram speed - it has to be supported by less common multipliers, and support really depends on the motherboard. So I wouldn't worry about "support" only being to 2933. I assumed the numbers not matching perfectly would just be a naming thing, it was the DOCP thing I was iffy about Drakhoran posted:When you boot up the motherboard it will read the SPD (Serial Presence Detect) on the RAM to see the proper speed and timings to run the RAM at. If you check the Tech Specs for that RAM kit you will see an SPD speed of 2133MHz at an SPD voltage of 1.2V. Anything faster than that is technically overclocking it. Intel has an extension to SPD called XMP (eXtreme Memory Profile) which allows memory companies to include standard overclocking settings for their RAM. This way you can just go into BIOS and enable XMP rather than having to set all the memory timings manually. This is a really good explanation. I'm assuming the bios thing will be really straightforward? I think I'm ready to build this pc. Wirth1000 posted:I just recently did a Ryzen 1600X build with a ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K board and I initially went with this: I'll keep this in mind and keep an eye on it, and see what kingston options I can swap for if I have issues. Thanks!
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Jun 19, 2017 03:33
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man the etherium poo poo has hit aus prices, this is garbage.
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Jun 22, 2017 00:21
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BIG HEADLINE posted:No worries - I'm honestly in the same boat as you, coming up on seven years with my own PC, but I've resigned myself to wait for *Cannonlake* instead, which is the CPU coming *after* Coffee Lake, hopefully around Q1'18. I am a bit cautious, though - I've been hearing a lot more about people's Sandys and Ivys "giving up the ghost" recently. Is going with ryzen a bad idea rn? I thought the threadripper release was just a ryzen 9 equivalent, so nothing big to care about unless you specifically want a super good cpu? Or is it just a bad idea to build atm if you want to stick with intel? Ive always stuck with intel in the past and I picked the ryzen 5 1600x specifically because of the intel thing. It seemed to be ~~equal depending on the review at a similar pricepoint. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 08:54
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So I bought a hyper 212 turbo that the coolermaster site says works with am4 out if the box https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fsWaSHyTA8 Did I get jipped? Am I supposed to force it?
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Jun 27, 2017 07:41
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The one I bought is the first one pictured under air cooling It says on the front and back of the box it supports am4 too
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Jun 27, 2017 07:52
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Ah, for some reason I saw "turbo" as EVO. =/ So what do I do?
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Jun 27, 2017 07:54
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Which would mean they put an old version in a new ones box. No physical stores near me sell the bracket so I have to wait for it to be delivered What a boner kill
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Jun 27, 2017 08:01
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Actuarial Fables posted:The older versions don't have the two slits that yours has, so you have the newer model compatible with AM4. It's sitting up because the other side is attached. If I take 1 side off, the other is too short to reach. Looks like just the bracket is wrong then. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Jun 27, 2017 |
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Jun 27, 2017 09:23
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eszett engma posted:The cooler isn't centered on the CPU. Shift it towards the PCI slots a bit so that the cross piece on the arm is between the two taller fins. Yeah I'll get it more centered. Apparently it is supposed to need a shittone of force. It was off center there because I had the bracket out before I started recording and put it back in 1 handed.
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Jun 27, 2017 12:16
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So I got my cooler on, and got in the bios. I saw the ran was running at 2133 so I hit the auto xmp button. Now I cant hit post, its stuck in a reboot loop. I think I should have updated the bios first, what do I do?
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Jun 28, 2017 10:36
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BIG HEADLINE posted:The board should give you the option to reset with a physical switch - failing that, take the CMOS battery out for a few minutes, drop it back in, and try again. That should clear all BIOS settings and bring you back to stock. If you do take the CMOS battery out, I always take the precaution of disconnecting the ATX leads, and if the board has a manual power button on it, holding that to discharge any latent electricity stored up on the board's capacitors. The hazard isn't from touching the battery housing, but from what else your hands or fingers might brush while you're doing it. Sweet thanks! Im updating the bios now, is hitting a big red auto xmp button the wrong way to do this? I've never really messed around in the bios beyond selecting boot drives
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Jun 28, 2017 11:07
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So, ive had a few days of my pc going well. I played some playerunknown battlegrounds, on ultra, and my pc died after 5 mins. It wouldnt restart and I've narrowed it down to the gpu frying. How do I tell if its a bad card, something I did, or the psu (evga g3 supernova 650) I swapped gpus with my old computer. Both work with the dying 760, neither post with the new 1060.
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Jul 2, 2017 13:44
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Rexxed posted:If more than one PC won't work with the video card, it's most likely the video card. I mean, how do i tell what killed it?
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Jul 3, 2017 00:48
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Anyone in Australia, you can get the msi 6gb gaming x+ cheaper than the base 1060s at umart right now. They forgot to put the prices up. You get faster memory and probably better binning
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Jul 4, 2017 05:57
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I'd be pretty picky about something that costs nearly a grand too
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Oct 4, 2017 18:04
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wouldn't cheese drip down the sides and immediately fry the cpu?
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Oct 20, 2017 18:10
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Bigsteve posted:I'm looking at building a new system, will be for 4k video/photo editing with some games thrown in. probably go with intel instead or get fast ram, ryzen performance scales heavily with ram speed underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 08:32
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Im helping my brother install his pc, weird that his atx motherboard doesnt line up with all the standoffs. It doesnt use the outer 3, and it uses an matx position
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Dec 4, 2017 02:19
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kloa posted:Those may be for eATX server motherboards Nah its an atx case, it just straight up doesnt have holes on that outside edge. Asrock pro 4
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Dec 4, 2017 02:29
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My friend changed cases, nothing else changed but the case. a 2 month old system. now he has a metallic smell. could it just be the case
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Sep 11, 2018 09:10
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