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Uhquote:For almost everyone posting here, you will want either Z97 (overclocking) or H97 (not) paired with an Intel 4th-Generation Core (Haswell) CPU. Might wanna update that section for Skylake. E: same with the section below it and the bit about windows The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 20:27 on May 2, 2016 |
# ¿ May 2, 2016 20:23 |
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 04:55 |
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Lpzie posted:I built this 3 years ago: just get a new card. Ideally wait until June for Nvidia's new cards to come out. Or buy used in two weeks when the firesales on 970s start.
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# ¿ May 3, 2016 04:49 |
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DarkSun6890 posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant gently caress no never SLI. Wait a month for the market to stabilize and pick up a used 980ti for ~300 or nap a new 1070 for $400. Or a grab a 970 for like $200 or so, which trades blows with dual 760s with extra VRAM and none of SLI's terribleness. For reference I upgraded from dual 760s to a 970 two years ago.
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# ¿ May 17, 2016 01:47 |
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Ryuga Death posted:Is the 1070/1080 going to be significantly better than the 970? I don't really understand all the technical jargon enough to fully grasp it. Though I imagine even if it is, a 1070 probably won't be that much of an improvement over a 970 for 1080p gaming, right? Gunna disagree with Vulgar and stupid and say that a 1070 will comfortably max out 1080p on ultra at 60 fps. By contrast, the 970 actually struggles a fair bit in triple A games, generally hovering around 45-55 FPS on higher settings. It's a great card for the price, but I wouldn't say a 1070 for under $400 is overkill maxing out 1080p. A 1080 probably would be however, but even then DSR is a thing that exists.
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# ¿ May 17, 2016 04:50 |
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Muttonchips posted:My computer is starting to show its age, especially when I try to play modern games like Fallout 4 or GTA 5. It's also really really really loud, which is something I would like to change. Ideally, I want to run games at 1920x1080. Would this be possible with a budget of $500-700? Or should I save up some more? Which components do I need to replace? I'm willing to stick with the HD6870 for a few months if that would be the best way to go about things. Sure is! Overclock your CPU if you haven't already. Grab a 250 gig Samsung 850 EVO to replace that tiny 64 gig dive for $80. Grab a PSU from one of the above builds to replace yours. Wait a few months and pick up a 1070 for ~$400 or so and you're set. Total cost is somewhere $550 and $600 and you'll be good for another 4 years most likely.
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# ¿ May 20, 2016 19:21 |
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NarDmw posted:Oh, to answer your question, I'm thinking of just one sdd (850 Pro 512gb) and one hdd (wd blue 1tb). I think the fractal r5 has ample space for those drives, so the case will be mostly empty inside. If that's the case, why not go mATX and save yourself some space? There's really no reason not to. Also I have a quick question. My desktop speakers - the volume is quite low, and I've turned up all the settings I can. Is there a small (and preferably cheap) amplifier that'd work well? The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 03:14 on May 21, 2016 |
# ¿ May 21, 2016 03:04 |
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Probably because he wants both a 240mm AIO in front and an optical drive, I'm not sure there are all that many sound dampened mATX cases that would fit that set of requirements. Doh Also I have a quick question. My desktop speakers - the volume is quite low, and I've turned up all the settings I can. Is there a small (and preferably cheap) amplifier that'd work well?
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# ¿ May 21, 2016 03:14 |
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Xarthor posted:Okay, I don't want to seem like a clueless rube but any suggestions for laptops that can run modern games at modest specs? Not every slider has to be at ultra quality. I'm thinking like the new Hitman and maybe Fallout 4. As radish said, you need to be prepared to spend around $1300-1500 minimum.to get a good gaming laptop. You need a 970m or better, which is roughly equivalent to the soon to be outdated desktop 960. There are laptops in the $800 range with a 960m, but that will run, for example, fallout 4 on the lowest settings at 1080p at around 20-30 fps. It's slightly slower than a 750ti, but the thermal throttling in a laptop just kills the chip. With gaming laptops you need to go big or go home. The performance you require just doesn't exist at your price point.
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# ¿ May 25, 2016 09:02 |
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Sebadoh Gigante posted:I've asked a similar question up thread, but I'm asking for reference, what's the minimum spec for console equivalent performance? I realize it depends on the game, but I saw that Gears of War Ultimate Edition lists this as a minimum: You want recommended spec, generally, for a solid 30-45 FPS on medium-high settings @1080p. But honestly it varies from game to game and publisher to publisher. Fortunately, it's easy enough to google "Gears of War Ultimate Edition benchmarks" to see how different cards and setups handle the game on PC.
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# ¿ May 27, 2016 17:17 |
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Moola posted:what the christ, Im reading that the 1070 benchmarks better than a Titan X It's what, 10% or so more powerful than the 980ti, which had better performance than the titan X anyways. Not unduly surprising in my books.
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# ¿ May 30, 2016 17:29 |
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just as a quick plug to folks, I'm selling $100 in newegg credit + newegg Premier here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3778786. Newegg premier gives you free expedited shipping and will legitimately save you a bunch of money. So if you wanna save $20 on your purchase for free, hit me up. okay hocking my poo poo is over now, back to your regularly scheduled content.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2016 21:56 |
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Texibus posted:Hey guys, planning to upgrade to a 1070 or 1080 from my 970 only if you think paying what, $400-$500 for 3-5% more performance is worthwhile. Hint: it is not.
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# ¿ Jun 9, 2016 19:08 |
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The Mantis posted:Listen to this man, don't become a monster like me. SA Mart. There will be lots of goons offloading over the next few months, you can probably snag a 970 or 980 for cheap. E: lol there's literally two goons selling their 970s for $225 shipped on the first page of SA Mart. The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Jun 11, 2016 |
# ¿ Jun 11, 2016 07:53 |
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Zero The Hero posted:Thanks a lot man. I sent this to her. I saw your list of budget builds further up on this page, would you at any point recommend an AMD for a budget build? Her other option is getting a PC cheap enough she can replace it in a year or two when she has more cash. It's not what I would do, I doubt it would ever be cost effective, but I thought I'd ask. Never buy AMD processors. Their GPUs are great, especially the 480 that comes out in a week, but their CPUs are overpriced, have terrible performance, and waste ridiculous amounts of energy and heat.
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2016 19:31 |
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unpronounceable posted:I have a budget of about $250 CAD for a new GPU. My case can't accept cards longer than 10", and it doesn't have great ventilation, so I'm looking at a 960 for the lower tdp. Buy a used 970, you might be able to get one for around that price.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2016 19:53 |
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internet inc posted:Crosspost from the Overwatch thread. save an extra 50 bucks, buy a rx480 or a used 970. afterburner is a tool that lets you overclock GPUs.
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2016 19:41 |
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Gigabyte has hosed with power delivery and changed out motherboards for shittier versions while selling them under the same label. It probably won't blow up in your face, but lovely power delivery can absolutely fry your parts/motherboard so you want to stick with another company if at all possible.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2016 23:20 |
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Julie And Candy posted:This was a while back, but thanks for your input. Why the change to ITX? Just for the onboard wifi? Is ITX viable now for higher end builds if I want to go more powerful later on? I've always been intrigued by small form factor PCs but I've avoided them because it seems like a pain in the rear end to build in, and constrains your upgrade options. Put it this way. There is no reason to go ATX or mATX unless you want to go SLI (you don't).
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2016 03:20 |
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lessthankyle posted:I think this got buried at the bottom of a page, any advice before I take the dive? Don't buy a 970 for $300 when you can get 980ti performance for $400.
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 21:45 |
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I would RMA your hard drive and PSU first, GPU second, and motherboard last.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2016 07:38 |
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Steely Glint posted:In addition to what's already been said, I can say that you probably don't need a discrete GPU for those games - I played xcom and EU4 for the past 6 months on an Intel iGPU with perfectly acceptable results. You could use the $200 to jump up to an Intel 6500 (or a 6600k if you want to overclock, which would mean using a Z170 motherboard like an ASRock Z170M Pro4S instead of the proposed H110M one) to get much better performance in those types of ai-heavy games. this is absolutely not the case for XCOM 2. It will just not run on intel GPUs. THink sub-15 FPS a 1280x720 on the lowest of the low settings. It's just not playable.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 05:23 |
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Steely Glint posted:My bad, haven't played the second one yet. I can vouch for a bunch of other recent strategy games though, so I'd presume that Firaxis screwed something up instead of intel igpu's being generally unusable. (still, it sounds like steelninja should disregard my last post given their specific desire to play xcom2) it's really more intel's igpus being unusable, xcom 2 is legitimately a praphically demanding game. Heck, anything below a 750ti chokes, and cards around that range have a very difficult time. HalloKitty posted:It's not real-time, 15 fps sounds fine! Can't quite tell if sarcastic or not, but real time or no it's really really really rough to play at low FPSes. Also AOTKPTW - add a samsung 850 EVO into your budget as well. It's better to swap games on and off a 250 gig SSD than have them all on a 1tb HDD. No one should be recommending an HDD as a boot drive in tyool 2016, and certainly not at that high of a budget. Better to skimp on the CPU or scrap the HDD entirely.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 14:58 |
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HalloKitty posted:I wasn't entirely sure myself whether it was sarcastic when I posted it, so I guess that came through. That said, it would be annoying to play XCOM 2 like that, but if you had no option at all, you could still play the game. You really couldn't, not at sub 15 frames per second at 1280x720p on the lowest possible settings. E: xthetenth posted:Xcom 2's performance is a fucktastrophe. It's inexcusable. However it's also a pretty cool and good game. This is a good point as well, Xcom 2 is remarkably CPU limited. This won't be super bad on a haswell or better i3, but you will def see performance improvements from a skylake i5.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 15:43 |
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Innocuous posted:Cheap upgrade question: that's not quite how graphics cards work. You can't buy those (super super old) cards new anymore. For 1080p, you have a couple options, though your CPU will hold you back a fair amount. You can buy a 1070 if you want to max out everything on ultra settings for the next few years. That'll run you around $400. You can get a used 980ti for around the same price, but with greater availability, and similar performance. At lower price points, you can get a Rx480 for around $220 or so. This is roughly equivalent to a used GTX 970 - slightly less powerful, slightly more expensive, greater power consumption and (marginally) worse driver support. You could also wait for the GTX 1060 to be released, which is around $250 for roughly GTX 980 levels of performance. I'd probably recommend a used GTX 970 with a transferrable warranty, it's the best price/performance you can get for now.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2016 17:45 |
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OneThousandMonkeys posted:Judging by the card recommendations in the OP compared with the price points recommended in the OP, this seems like a bad time to be building a computer unless a GPU is the only thing you are looking to upgrade (as in, wait for the Nvidia price points to be less crazypants). Yes/no? I mean wait a month or so for prices to stabilize, but otherwise it's actually a good time to buy because you'll get maximum utility out of your GPU. The only other better time is in around three months when games start being bundled
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2016 06:01 |
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Sulla-Marius 88 posted:If the price were equal, what's the more worthwhile card - R7 370 2GB or GeForce GTX 950 2GB? Neither, or at the very least pick up a used machine. It is a very poor value proposition to get an old card when a new release is just around the corner. If nothing else, wait until the RX270 is released, which should trade blows with a 970 for around the same price as that 950.
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# ¿ Jul 15, 2016 15:32 |
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Sulla-Marius 88 posted:That's a fair point but I thought it wasn't coming out for a while. Also, did you mean the RX 470 and not RX 270? I can't find a good source of information that explains what they all are, what brackets they're in, and when they'll be released. This link below suggests the RX 480 is already available but there's no word on the 470: I do, in fact, mean the RX 470 Anyways, grab a used 970 with a transferable warranty if you can, save an extra 50 euros and get a RX480 if you can't, or wait and get a RX470. It is more money, but you're leaving a lot of performance on the table - both your card ideas are very bad buys at the moment in terms of price/performance . You can of course, buy and build the computer now and run it on integrated graphics till you can afford a GPU
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# ¿ Jul 15, 2016 17:09 |
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NewAge posted:Hi guys. I built this system yesterday: This is a thing with my machine as well, and it's a problem that's entirely ignoreable. I haven't noticed any issues besides having to press the power button twice, so if you can live with the issue I wouldn't worry overmuch about it.
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# ¿ Jul 15, 2016 18:16 |
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yum posted:Currently using an EVGA nvidia 760 GTX and was looking to upgrade to one of the new 1060s. Got a quick question though, how much of a difference is there between these mini and double fan versions in terms of performance/noise/heat? Are you kidding? That's not a bad price at all given the exchange rate. Works out to around $260-$280, which is fantastic compared to what we've seen with the 1070s. Markup is a bitch with other retailers though, to be sure. Also get the double fan version, as it will overclock better, quieter, and cooler. Get the mini if you have an ITX build with limited space. The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jul 20, 2016 |
# ¿ Jul 20, 2016 16:21 |
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DrNutt posted:Wow, thanks for the recommendation. I am not planning on putting an optical drive in this one and I'm only putting two hard drives in so the S is perfect. And poo poo, apparently it's still got room for 2 more 3.5s and 1 more SSD than I plan on putting in it anyway. sounds like you're a good candidate for a mATX or mITX case+motherboard instead. no one should be getting an ATX case these days unless they have a very compelling reason. Parasara posted:US based and use my computer almost exclusively for gaming. If it can also run a bunch of spreadsheets for when I work at home or do some mild content creation that wouldn't be a missed bonus. Aiming for 1440p gaming at 60 fps at high to max with the option to turn things down to get 144hz when desired or when I need to power through particularly graphics intensive areas. My budget is 1000-1600$, and this will be my first build. Am I missing anything that would save me money or any obvious noob traps? You're good, though the same advice about getting a mITX or mATX case+motherboard applies to you. you also don't need to buy thermal paste, and I would get a better power supply than the cheapass one you have there. The EVGA G2 series is quite good, if you want to stick with the same company.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2016 21:31 |
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Parasara posted:What's the difference between an ATX vs a MITX/mATX? Size. Especially if you're in a college dorm, you really really do not want the gigantic R4/R5 cases. They're huge, they're 20-30 pounds, and they're only beneficial if you have a shitton of drives or you're planning on SLI. You're not planning on SLI, because SLI is a waste of money. Get a mITX case, or a mATX case if you really want. There is no reason to be buying a gigantic, super heavy full tower computer in TYOOL2016.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2016 21:48 |
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priznat posted:I keep waffling between going uATX or mITX for next build, what's the favourite mITX case for people? I'd go mITX, honestly - it's not like you're going to need more than 16 gigs of RAM anytime soon, and as much as people bitch about airflow it is very very rarely a problem. oh no, you get to 70 under load instead of 65, the horror. Edit: I lied, more like 55 degrees under full load with a decent air cooler. you can't improve much on that even in an ATX rig. For recommendations: quote:Cases shamelessly stolen from the mITX thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3776587 The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jul 22, 2016 |
# ¿ Jul 22, 2016 21:55 |
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DrNutt posted:Is the define s not an mATX case? It's referred to as a mid tower via pc part picker and it's smaller than the oversized case I've got for my current rig. No, it's an ATX case. A "Mid-Tower" is still an ATX case, just smaller than a "full tower," which can be ATX or e-ATX.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2016 00:06 |
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Extra posted:I want to be able to play whatever dumb AAA title comes out in the next 5 years at 40+ FPS at 1080p on medium to low settings. The only thing graphics wise I give a hoot about is texture resolution. Also I want to overclock the i5-6600K to 4.6GHz because that seems like the safe generic speed people are flinging it up to. do not buy a 960. at that price point, get a RX280, which should get you 60 FPS @ 1080p on high settings for the next few years.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2016 00:27 |
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Enigma posted:Perhaps he means rx480, which is new and MSRP isn't too far off your price. She, but yeah I meant the rx480.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2016 01:53 |
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Zero The Hero posted:My sister built a new PC recently, but the motherboard is having problems with the ram - it occasionally refuses to work with anything more than one stick. She's tried every possible configuration using the four different ports. most likely it's a bad stick of RAM, see if she can't RMA it
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2016 06:13 |
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Heran Bago posted:Arguments for/against boxy style (shoebox?) computer cases over traditional tower shapes? None in particular, so long as you go small. mid and full tower systems are huge wastes of space. There are some advantages - larger amount of storage space, slightly cheaper - the huge increase in weight and size more than make a mITX system worth the cost. I strongly encourage everyone to build smaller computer systems, because there's no reason you need an ATX machine if you're building a computer with one GPU, a SSD and a platter drive, which 99% of people are.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2016 20:57 |
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Does that make it more difficult to get certain components that fit the box, like PSUs and GPUs? Are the motherboards more limited in function compared with ATX? Yes, it is slightly more difficult to get certain components. Or rather, you don't have as many options as ATX builds do, but it's not difficult to get the parts you do need. As to your motherboard question, on the contrary! mITX motherboards generally have significantly more features than ATX or mATX ones, mostly because you can't make up the difference with an expansion slot. Just about every mITX motherboard has wifi built in, unlike just about every ATX motherboard. The only difference is that you don't get expansion slots. This is fine, since most people don't need expansion slots, and SLI is a terrible terrible idea and a gigantic waste of money.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2016 22:07 |
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Noted, that's good to know. Is there more noise produced with smaller cases? I assume cooling fans have to work harder, given the smaller amount of space available. not really. Smaller cases do run very slightly hotter and very slightly louder, but only by a few degrees and a few decibels. With a good low profile cooler, the loudest thing in your case will be your GPU, and unless you get hosed with coil whine that's just not very loud.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2016 23:16 |
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 04:55 |
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unpronounceable posted:The 1060 I ordered just came in today. What's the currently recommended program to purge my existing AMD graphics drivers? display driver uninstaller
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# ¿ Jul 28, 2016 00:26 |