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The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:
Uh

quote:

For almost everyone posting here, you will want either Z97 (overclocking) or H97 (not) paired with an Intel 4th-Generation Core (Haswell) CPU.

There are two big things to know to fit your CPU and chipset together in your system: the socket for the CPU, and the features that the chipset supports.

Sockets have different numbers of and configurations of contact pins. It’s not possible to mix a CPU with a motherboard that uses a different socket. On Intel, sockets last for two product cycles, ~2 years. The current socket is LGA 1150 (a land grid array with 1,150 contacts). It takes Haswell (4th-generation Core) CPUs and will take Broadwell (5th-generation Core) when it is released. PC Part Picker will keep track of sockets for you once you’ve picked a motherboard or processor.

Chipsets provide a connection for most of the input devices and peripherals on the system, and a number of different chipsets are available for a given processor that each have a different mix of features. Let’s break down an example: Intel's H97 Express. H is the market segment, 9 is the series (or generation), and 7 and "Express" are there to look cool. Sometimes, the number in the 7 spot is played with, with lower numbers meaning fewer features (usually fewer SATA and USB ports).

Here are the different market segments:
H – Home use, general
Z – Performance. Like H but allows overclocking and SLI/CrossFire.
B – Basic/business. Like H but a bit stripped down.
Q – Business/enterprise. Like H plus optional enterprise management features.
X – Extreme, like X99. Crazypants for many-core CPUs. Usually paired with a different socket.
_M – Mobile, like HM87. You might see it in some tiny motherboards.

The CPUs to pair with Z97 for overclocking are the i5-4690K, i7-4790K, and Pentium G3258 (the Anniversary Edition Pentium). Technically, you could also use an i5-4670K or i7-4770K, but you would have to delid them to match the newer versions’ thermal performance. In general, Z motherboards plus –K CPU means overclocking, and you pair other boards with non-K CPUs.

There are additional chipsets for workstations and servers

Might wanna update that section for Skylake.

E: same with the section below it and the bit about windows

The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 20:27 on May 2, 2016

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The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Lpzie posted:

I built this 3 years ago:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $219.99)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $33.99)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (Purchased For $130.75)
Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory (Purchased For $59.99)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $104.29)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $65.63)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card (Purchased For $175.89)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 922 ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $79.99)
Power Supply: Corsair Enthusiast 650W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $20.84)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $17.99)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Asus VE228H 21.5" Monitor (Purchased For $134.98)
Monitor: Dell E2011H 20.0" Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Keyboard: Razer DeathStalker Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $48.00)
Mouse: Mionix Naos 3200 Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)
Headphones: Shure SRH440 Headphones ($89.99)
Other: OKGear 18 inch Blue Premium SATA III Round Cable 6GB/s Straight to Right Angle w/latch ($4.30)
Other: Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound Paste 3.5g ($8.23)
Other: Rosewill 10" Serial ATA III Red Flat Cable w/ Locking Latch ($2.49)
Other: Additional Taxes / Shipping Costs ($4.84)
Other: Bioshock Infinite, Tomb Raider, Far Cry 3: Blood Dragon, and Crysis 3 ($0.00)
Other: Microsoft Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows ($39.99)
Other: Blue Microphones Yeti USB Microphone - Silver Edition ($98.84)
Other: A Custom Microsoft Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows from some guy on Craigslist ($35.00)
Other: A Gun to Shoot Self ($1000.00)
Total: $2376.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-02 23:32 EDT-0400


My graphics card is dying. Should I just get a new graphics card (and which one? Something strong for gaming. Budget around ~250 is OK.) Or should I build a new PC at this point?

just get a new card. Ideally wait until June for Nvidia's new cards to come out.

Or buy used in two weeks when the firesales on 970s start.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

DarkSun6890 posted:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.49 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair XMS 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($31.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Extreme 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($188.99)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($152.97 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 62205ANHMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($59.50 @ Amazon)

I built this rig in June of 2013 and it's been treating me very nice. It plays games well, and takes care of my daily work stuff. Three years later, I'm trying to play the new DooM and I'm about ready to update again. Should my priority be getting some more ram? Should I get a second GTX 760 for SLI mode, or a totally new video card? This forbes article is what pushed me to buy this card in the first place, saying with SLI it outperformed a GTX Titan.
http://www.forbes.com/sites/jasonev...n/#3f5c07f03f62
I don't game at 1440p.

gently caress no never SLI.

Wait a month for the market to stabilize and pick up a used 980ti for ~300 or nap a new 1070 for $400.

Or a grab a 970 for like $200 or so, which trades blows with dual 760s with extra VRAM and none of SLI's terribleness.

For reference I upgraded from dual 760s to a 970 two years ago.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Ryuga Death posted:

Is the 1070/1080 going to be significantly better than the 970? I don't really understand all the technical jargon enough to fully grasp it. Though I imagine even if it is, a 1070 probably won't be that much of an improvement over a 970 for 1080p gaming, right?

Gunna disagree with Vulgar and stupid and say that a 1070 will comfortably max out 1080p on ultra at 60 fps. By contrast, the 970 actually struggles a fair bit in triple A games, generally hovering around 45-55 FPS on higher settings. It's a great card for the price, but I wouldn't say a 1070 for under $400 is overkill maxing out 1080p. A 1080 probably would be however, but even then DSR is a thing that exists.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Muttonchips posted:

My computer is starting to show its age, especially when I try to play modern games like Fallout 4 or GTA 5. It's also really really really loud, which is something I would like to change. Ideally, I want to run games at 1920x1080. Would this be possible with a budget of $500-700? Or should I save up some more? Which components do I need to replace? I'm willing to stick with the HD6870 for a few months if that would be the best way to go about things.

I also have a 64GB SSD drive (for OS only), and 2 storage hard drives, which I don't see being an issue. Basically, what would be the best way to use my money?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI P67A-G43 (B3) ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($37.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Diamond Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card
Case: Antec SONATA III 500 ATX Mid Tower Case w/500W Power Supply
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
Total: $277.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-20 12:59 EDT-0400

Sure is! Overclock your CPU if you haven't already. Grab a 250 gig Samsung 850 EVO to replace that tiny 64 gig dive for $80. Grab a PSU from one of the above builds to replace yours.

Wait a few months and pick up a 1070 for ~$400 or so and you're set. Total cost is somewhere $550 and $600 and you'll be good for another 4 years most likely.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

NarDmw posted:

Oh, to answer your question, I'm thinking of just one sdd (850 Pro 512gb) and one hdd (wd blue 1tb). I think the fractal r5 has ample space for those drives, so the case will be mostly empty inside.

If that's the case, why not go mATX and save yourself some space? There's really no reason not to.



Also I have a quick question. My desktop speakers - the volume is quite low, and I've turned up all the settings I can. Is there a small (and preferably cheap) amplifier that'd work well?

The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 03:14 on May 21, 2016

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

AVeryLargeRadish posted:

Probably because he wants both a 240mm AIO in front and an optical drive, I'm not sure there are all that many sound dampened mATX cases that would fit that set of requirements.

Doh :downs:

Also I have a quick question. My desktop speakers - the volume is quite low, and I've turned up all the settings I can. Is there a small (and preferably cheap) amplifier that'd work well?

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Xarthor posted:

Okay, I don't want to seem like a clueless rube but any suggestions for laptops that can run modern games at modest specs? Not every slider has to be at ultra quality. I'm thinking like the new Hitman and maybe Fallout 4.

Basically I'm in a position that I only game occasionally (once or twice a month maybe) and my wife needs a laptop for her work more than I need an ultimate gaming rig.

My budget is around $500-$800 and I'd rather buy it pre-built. Any companies to look at? Sites? Deals? Thoughts? Etc. Thanks!

As radish said, you need to be prepared to spend around $1300-1500 minimum.to get a good gaming laptop. You need a 970m or better, which is roughly equivalent to the soon to be outdated desktop 960. There are laptops in the $800 range with a 960m, but that will run, for example, fallout 4 on the lowest settings at 1080p at around 20-30 fps. It's slightly slower than a 750ti, but the thermal throttling in a laptop just kills the chip.

With gaming laptops you need to go big or go home. The performance you require just doesn't exist at your price point.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Sebadoh Gigante posted:

I've asked a similar question up thread, but I'm asking for reference, what's the minimum spec for console equivalent performance? I realize it depends on the game, but I saw that Gears of War Ultimate Edition lists this as a minimum:

MINIMUM SPECS: OS 64 bit Windows 10 (v. 1511), Processor: Intel Core i5 @ 2.7Ghz / AMD FX 6-core, Memory: 8 GB RAM (2 GB VRAM), GPU: AMD R7 260x / NVIDIA GTX 650 Ti, HD Space: 60GB, DirectX12

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/apps/gears-of-war-ultimate-edition-for-windows-10/9nblggh3shm5#app-details

That's probably not the best example since I've heard it has issues regardless of the setup, I'm just trying to get an idea since I'm new to this.

You want recommended spec, generally, for a solid 30-45 FPS on medium-high settings @1080p.

But honestly it varies from game to game and publisher to publisher. Fortunately, it's easy enough to google "Gears of War Ultimate Edition benchmarks" to see how different cards and setups handle the game on PC.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Moola posted:

what the christ, Im reading that the 1070 benchmarks better than a Titan X

I dont even know what is real anymore?!?!?!

It's what, 10% or so more powerful than the 980ti, which had better performance than the titan X anyways. Not unduly surprising in my books.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:
just as a quick plug to folks, I'm selling $100 in newegg credit + newegg Premier here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3778786. Newegg premier gives you free expedited shipping and will legitimately save you a bunch of money.

So if you wanna save $20 on your purchase for free, hit me up.


okay hocking my poo poo is over now, back to your regularly scheduled content.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Texibus posted:

Hey guys, planning to upgrade to a 1070 or 1080 from my 970

Curious if I need an upgrade to the my CPU aswell. I'm presently using an asrock z97e lga1150 board with i5-4690 3.5ghz processor.

What do you think? Do i need a new processor and motherboard to take advantage of the new card?

Edit: ohh and my resolution on my monitor is 1920x1080...... and I'm a Vive owner.

only if you think paying what, $400-$500 for 3-5% more performance is worthwhile.

Hint: it is not.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

The Mantis posted:

Listen to this man, don't become a monster like me.

VAT etc isn't a huge problem because I can buy and ship at US prices, but you're 100% right about supply. This FE baloney is bullshit. I mean I guess they have a right to sell at whatever price we're buying at, I'm just not ready to drop $400. Especially when the rest of my rig can't take full advantage of it.

Now off to poke around the terrifying world of used computer parts :ohdear:

Any recommendations on resellers?

SA Mart. There will be lots of goons offloading over the next few months, you can probably snag a 970 or 980 for cheap.


E: lol there's literally two goons selling their 970s for $225 shipped on the first page of SA Mart.

The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Jun 11, 2016

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Zero The Hero posted:

Thanks a lot man. I sent this to her. I saw your list of budget builds further up on this page, would you at any point recommend an AMD for a budget build? Her other option is getting a PC cheap enough she can replace it in a year or two when she has more cash. It's not what I would do, I doubt it would ever be cost effective, but I thought I'd ask.

Never buy AMD processors. Their GPUs are great, especially the 480 that comes out in a week, but their CPUs are overpriced, have terrible performance, and waste ridiculous amounts of energy and heat.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

unpronounceable posted:

I have a budget of about $250 CAD for a new GPU. My case can't accept cards longer than 10", and it doesn't have great ventilation, so I'm looking at a 960 for the lower tdp.

I think I'll go with this one, unless someone tells me otherwise. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/YqkwrH/asus-video-card-strixgtx960dc2oc4gd5

Buy a used 970, you might be able to get one for around that price.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

internet inc posted:

Crosspost from the Overwatch thread.

I want to throw a few (200ish?) bones at my computer in order to run Overwatch a little better. I'm fine with the lowest settings but I get some occasional stuttering and FPS drops with this:

Intel Core i3-4160 Haswell Dual-Core 3.6 GHz
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti Superclocked 2GB
ASRock H97M 1150 Intel H97
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600
SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 250GB SSD

Is there anything that sticks out as the bottleneck (especially with regards to Overwatch) or should I just wait and upgrade everything down the road?

Someone from the Overwatch thread recommended that I run the MSI Afterburner tool, which I will undoubtedly do once I get home, but I'm hoping for a few pointers until then.

save an extra 50 bucks, buy a rx480 or a used 970.

afterburner is a tool that lets you overclock GPUs.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:
Gigabyte has hosed with power delivery and changed out motherboards for shittier versions while selling them under the same label. It probably won't blow up in your face, but lovely power delivery can absolutely fry your parts/motherboard so you want to stick with another company if at all possible.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Julie And Candy posted:

This was a while back, but thanks for your input. Why the change to ITX? Just for the onboard wifi? Is ITX viable now for higher end builds if I want to go more powerful later on? I've always been intrigued by small form factor PCs but I've avoided them because it seems like a pain in the rear end to build in, and constrains your upgrade options.

Put it this way. There is no reason to go ATX or mATX unless you want to go SLI (you don't).

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

lessthankyle posted:

I think this got buried at the bottom of a page, any advice before I take the dive?

Don't buy a 970 for $300 when you can get 980ti performance for $400.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:
I would RMA your hard drive and PSU first, GPU second, and motherboard last.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Steely Glint posted:

In addition to what's already been said, I can say that you probably don't need a discrete GPU for those games - I played xcom and EU4 for the past 6 months on an Intel iGPU with perfectly acceptable results. You could use the $200 to jump up to an Intel 6500 (or a 6600k if you want to overclock, which would mean using a Z170 motherboard like an ASRock Z170M Pro4S instead of the proposed H110M one) to get much better performance in those types of ai-heavy games.

The above does not apply if you play any other games than slow strategy ones, of course.

this is absolutely not the case for XCOM 2. It will just not run on intel GPUs. THink sub-15 FPS a 1280x720 on the lowest of the low settings. It's just not playable.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Steely Glint posted:

My bad, haven't played the second one yet. I can vouch for a bunch of other recent strategy games though, so I'd presume that Firaxis screwed something up instead of intel igpu's being generally unusable. (still, it sounds like steelninja should disregard my last post given their specific desire to play xcom2)

it's really more intel's igpus being unusable, xcom 2 is legitimately a praphically demanding game. Heck, anything below a 750ti chokes, and cards around that range have a very difficult time.

HalloKitty posted:

It's not real-time, 15 fps sounds fine!

Can't quite tell if sarcastic or not, but real time or no it's really really really rough to play at low FPSes.


Also AOTKPTW - add a samsung 850 EVO into your budget as well. It's better to swap games on and off a 250 gig SSD than have them all on a 1tb HDD. No one should be recommending an HDD as a boot drive in tyool 2016, and certainly not at that high of a budget. Better to skimp on the CPU or scrap the HDD entirely.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

HalloKitty posted:

I wasn't entirely sure myself whether it was sarcastic when I posted it, so I guess that came through. That said, it would be annoying to play XCOM 2 like that, but if you had no option at all, you could still play the game.

vv Yeah, I really like XCOM 2, but for a game that looks as it does, I have no idea how they managed to make it perform like it does

You really couldn't, not at sub 15 frames per second at 1280x720p on the lowest possible settings.

E:

xthetenth posted:

Xcom 2's performance is a fucktastrophe. It's inexcusable. However it's also a pretty cool and good game.

If you're building for it and HoI 4, it's good not to neglect the CPU, they're both abnormally CPU limited. I'd be tempted to see what the 470 is because it's considerably cheaper than the 480 and that might let you get to an i5, but nobody knows when it might release and the recommended build is sound.

This is a good point as well, Xcom 2 is remarkably CPU limited. This won't be super bad on a haswell or better i3, but you will def see performance improvements from a skylake i5.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Innocuous posted:

Cheap upgrade question:

I built a midrange system circa 2011 around an AMD Phenom II x4 955 Processor (4 CPUs), ~3.2 GHz on a Gigabyte GA880GM-D2H motherboard. The current video card is a GeForce GTX 460 with 1 gig of onboard memory. Since then, I've been using a 1440x900 monitor, and while the system is showing its age, it's still capable of modest performance in a lot of games at that resolution, even if I can't play cutting edge stuff.

I just got my hands on a 1080 monitor. I'd like to squeeze another year or two out of this system before I have to build a new PC. I'm thinking I'd need to upgrade the video card to something that can handle the higher resolution (and perhaps dual monitor). If I could boost performance without bottlenecking on the CPU, that'd also be great. I've been looking at the GeForce GTX 600 and 700 series, which seem reasonably priced for what I'm trying to do, but I don't have a sense of whether their performance is appropriately scaled to my needs or I'd just be blowing money on power this computer can't utilize. Is there a better option? And if not, are there any particular cards in the GTX 600 or 700 that merit a recommendation?

that's not quite how graphics cards work. You can't buy those (super super old) cards new anymore.

For 1080p, you have a couple options, though your CPU will hold you back a fair amount. You can buy a 1070 if you want to max out everything on ultra settings for the next few years. That'll run you around $400. You can get a used 980ti for around the same price, but with greater availability, and similar performance.

At lower price points, you can get a Rx480 for around $220 or so. This is roughly equivalent to a used GTX 970 - slightly less powerful, slightly more expensive, greater power consumption and (marginally) worse driver support. You could also wait for the GTX 1060 to be released, which is around $250 for roughly GTX 980 levels of performance.

I'd probably recommend a used GTX 970 with a transferrable warranty, it's the best price/performance you can get for now.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

OneThousandMonkeys posted:

Judging by the card recommendations in the OP compared with the price points recommended in the OP, this seems like a bad time to be building a computer unless a GPU is the only thing you are looking to upgrade (as in, wait for the Nvidia price points to be less crazypants). Yes/no?

I mean wait a month or so for prices to stabilize, but otherwise it's actually a good time to buy because you'll get maximum utility out of your GPU.

The only other better time is in around three months when games start being bundled

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Sulla-Marius 88 posted:

If the price were equal, what's the more worthwhile card - R7 370 2GB or GeForce GTX 950 2GB?

The past week I've posted a couple times about buying a 2nd hand machine just for office work but I've reevaluated my finances and decided it makes more sense to buy a proper (albeit budget) machine new and just sit on it for a good long while.

I've picked out and ordered everything here but the GPU:

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/vzKRJV


I've been googling and reading a bunch and I'm getting an equal number of results saying "It's obvious - the GTX 950 is the better card" and "It's plain as day - the R7 370 wins hands down".

I'm probably going to go with the GTX 950 because I trust Nvidia's quality and driver release more, but with both cards being identically priced -- which is better?

Neither, or at the very least pick up a used machine. It is a very poor value proposition to get an old card when a new release is just around the corner.

If nothing else, wait until the RX270 is released, which should trade blows with a 970 for around the same price as that 950.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Sulla-Marius 88 posted:

That's a fair point but I thought it wasn't coming out for a while. Also, did you mean the RX 470 and not RX 270? I can't find a good source of information that explains what they all are, what brackets they're in, and when they'll be released. This link below suggests the RX 480 is already available but there's no word on the 470:

http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/new-prod...r-draw-3642524/

e: I'm sorry that I'm asking really ignorant questions, my research capacity is really poor at the moment, I'm typing this on a tablet that can barely load one tab at a time, let alone 8+. Loading, editing, and saving this will take me a solid 50 seconds. That's why I'm buying a computer!

I do, in fact, mean the RX 470 :downs:

Anyways, grab a used 970 with a transferable warranty if you can, save an extra 50 euros and get a RX480 if you can't, or wait and get a RX470. It is more money, but you're leaving a lot of performance on the table - both your card ideas are very bad buys at the moment in terms of price/performance .

You can of course, buy and build the computer now and run it on integrated graphics till you can afford a GPU

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

NewAge posted:

Hi guys. I built this system yesterday:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($115.98)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($78.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($48.95 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.95 @ Amazon)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DGX 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $467.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-15 13:10 EDT-0400


And it's working perfectly except for one thing. Every time I turn it on, I hit the power button and the LED comes on for maybe a second and I can hear the fans etc turning on as well, but then after maybe a second it all shuts off again. However, if I hit the power button a second time, it turns on as normal with no problems whatsoever. Googling has brought me mixed results, some people saying RAM and some people saying flash the BIOS (which scares the crap out of me because the last thing I want to do is end up breaking everything after I managed to put it together with few problems). Does anybody know what might be up?

This is a thing with my machine as well, and it's a problem that's entirely ignoreable. I haven't noticed any issues besides having to press the power button twice, so if you can live with the issue I wouldn't worry overmuch about it.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

yum posted:

Currently using an EVGA nvidia 760 GTX and was looking to upgrade to one of the new 1060s. Got a quick question though, how much of a difference is there between these mini and double fan versions in terms of performance/noise/heat?

Canadian prices suck btw, every other site that has the cards in stock has a markup of $50-$100.

Are you kidding? That's not a bad price at all given the exchange rate. Works out to around $260-$280, which is fantastic compared to what we've seen with the 1070s.

Markup is a bitch with other retailers though, to be sure.

Also get the double fan version, as it will overclock better, quieter, and cooler. Get the mini if you have an ITX build with limited space.

The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jul 20, 2016

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

DrNutt posted:

Wow, thanks for the recommendation. I am not planning on putting an optical drive in this one and I'm only putting two hard drives in so the S is perfect. And poo poo, apparently it's still got room for 2 more 3.5s and 1 more SSD than I plan on putting in it anyway. :psyduck:

sounds like you're a good candidate for a mATX or mITX case+motherboard instead.


no one should be getting an ATX case these days unless they have a very compelling reason.

Parasara posted:

US based and use my computer almost exclusively for gaming. If it can also run a bunch of spreadsheets for when I work at home or do some mild content creation that wouldn't be a missed bonus. Aiming for 1440p gaming at 60 fps at high to max with the option to turn things down to get 144hz when desired or when I need to power through particularly graphics intensive areas. My budget is 1000-1600$, and this will be my first build. Am I missing anything that would save me money or any obvious noob traps?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($5.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($154.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($160.45 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB STRIX Video Card ($700.00)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.95 @ Directron)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1552.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-22 15:51 EDT-0400

Ideally i'd be running this on a 144hz g synch 1440p monitor if that makes a difference. I'm also unsure if I should buy these parts online or go into a local store and pick everything up.

You're good, though the same advice about getting a mITX or mATX case+motherboard applies to you.

you also don't need to buy thermal paste, and I would get a better power supply than the cheapass one you have there. The EVGA G2 series is quite good, if you want to stick with the same company.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Parasara posted:

What's the difference between an ATX vs a MITX/mATX?



Size. Especially if you're in a college dorm, you really really do not want the gigantic R4/R5 cases. They're huge, they're 20-30 pounds, and they're only beneficial if you have a shitton of drives or you're planning on SLI. You're not planning on SLI, because SLI is a waste of money.

Get a mITX case, or a mATX case if you really want. There is no reason to be buying a gigantic, super heavy full tower computer in TYOOL2016.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

priznat posted:

I keep waffling between going uATX or mITX for next build, what's the favourite mITX case for people?

I think I'd probably go uATX just for the 4 DIMM slots and more choice in motherboards but it is interesting to consider a mITX too..

I'd go mITX, honestly - it's not like you're going to need more than 16 gigs of RAM anytime soon, and as much as people bitch about airflow it is very very rarely a problem.


oh no, you get to 70 under load instead of 65, the horror.


Edit: I lied, more like 55 degrees under full load with a decent air cooler. you can't improve much on that even in an ATX rig.

For recommendations:

quote:

Cases

Silverstone Sugo 13B - $40
10.5 Liters
ATX/SFX/SFX-L PSUs
10.5" GPU
3x2.5" or 1x2.5" and 1x3.5" drives
Supports a 120MM fan and/or radiator and low profile coolers.
No optical drive support.

Fractal Design Node 202 - $80
10.2 Liters
SFX/SFX-L
12.5" GPU
2x2.5" drives
Low profile coolers only.

Silverstone RVZ02 -$70
12 Liters
SFX/SFX-L
13" GPU
2x2.5" drives, slim line optical drive.
Low profile coolers only

Silverstone ML08B-H - $80
12 Liters
SFX/SFX-L
13" GPU
2x2.5" drives, slim line optical drive.
Low profile coolers only
Basically the same as the RVZ02, but has a more subdued fascia and a handle, but a bit more expensive.

Silverstone RVZ01 - $80
14 Liters
SFX/SFX-L
13" GPU
2x2.5", 1x3.5" and a slim slot-loading optical drive
Low profile cooler recommended, but can fit certain 120MM CLCs with slim fans

shamelessly stolen from the mITX thread.

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3776587


The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jul 22, 2016

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

DrNutt posted:

Is the define s not an mATX case? It's referred to as a mid tower via pc part picker and it's smaller than the oversized case I've got for my current rig.

No, it's an ATX case. A "Mid-Tower" is still an ATX case, just smaller than a "full tower," which can be ATX or e-ATX.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Extra posted:

I want to be able to play whatever dumb AAA title comes out in the next 5 years at 40+ FPS at 1080p on medium to low settings. The only thing graphics wise I give a hoot about is texture resolution. Also I want to overclock the i5-6600K to 4.6GHz because that seems like the safe generic speed people are flinging it up to.

I do not trust AMD at all but it seems their GPUs/CPUs are cheaper for higher benchmark scores.

GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 960 4GB G1 GAMING OC EDITION $200
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) $60
ASUS Z170-E LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard $135
Intel Core i5-6600K 6M Skylake Quad-Core 3.5 GHz LGA 1151 91W BX80662I56600K Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 530 $250
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan $30

Total: $675.

Have a case, have a PSU, have storage. My main concern is I'm overspending for what I really need but I do sometimes run very single core CPU intensive applications.

Thanks goonies.

do not buy a 960. at that price point, get a RX280, which should get you 60 FPS @ 1080p on high settings for the next few years.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

Enigma posted:

Perhaps he means rx480, which is new and MSRP isn't too far off your price.

She, but yeah I meant the rx480.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

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Zero The Hero posted:

My sister built a new PC recently, but the motherboard is having problems with the ram - it occasionally refuses to work with anything more than one stick. She's tried every possible configuration using the four different ports.

She called the board manufacturer, but they told her that the ram she bought wasn't on their official "compatibility list". She tried to return the board to Newegg and get a replacement, but she had cut out the UPC for a mail-in rebate, so they won't do an exchange for her.

I told her to leave a negative review on Newegg and see if that motivated the manufacturer, but other than that, I don't know what options she has available. Anyone have any suggestions?

most likely it's a bad stick of RAM, see if she can't RMA it

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

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Heran Bago posted:

Arguments for/against boxy style (shoebox?) computer cases over traditional tower shapes?

None in particular, so long as you go small.

mid and full tower systems are huge wastes of space. There are some advantages - larger amount of storage space, slightly cheaper - the huge increase in weight and size more than make a mITX system worth the cost. I strongly encourage everyone to build smaller computer systems, because there's no reason you need an ATX machine if you're building a computer with one GPU, a SSD and a platter drive, which 99% of people are.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

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WattsvilleBlues posted:

Does that make it more difficult to get certain components that fit the box, like PSUs and GPUs? Are the motherboards more limited in function compared with ATX?

Yes, it is slightly more difficult to get certain components. Or rather, you don't have as many options as ATX builds do, but it's not difficult to get the parts you do need.


As to your motherboard question, on the contrary! mITX motherboards generally have significantly more features than ATX or mATX ones, mostly because you can't make up the difference with an expansion slot. Just about every mITX motherboard has wifi built in, unlike just about every ATX motherboard.

The only difference is that you don't get expansion slots. This is fine, since most people don't need expansion slots, and SLI is a terrible terrible idea and a gigantic waste of money.

The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

WattsvilleBlues posted:

Noted, that's good to know. Is there more noise produced with smaller cases? I assume cooling fans have to work harder, given the smaller amount of space available.

not really. Smaller cases do run very slightly hotter and very slightly louder, but only by a few degrees and a few decibels. With a good low profile cooler, the loudest thing in your case will be your GPU, and unless you get hosed with coil whine that's just not very loud.

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The Iron Rose
May 12, 2012

:minnie: Cat Army :minnie:

unpronounceable posted:

The 1060 I ordered just came in today. What's the currently recommended program to purge my existing AMD graphics drivers?

display driver uninstaller

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