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BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

I'm honestly quite surprised that the new thread isn't by AVLR, but it is honestly super overdue so I'm glad someone stepped up. Shoutout to peak debt for taking up the mantle (apt name too :shepspends:).

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BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

AVeryLargeRadish posted:

A few changes I would make:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($275.00 @ Centre Com)
Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($140.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($49.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($125.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.00 @ CPL Online)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB Superclocked Video Card ($222.00 @ PLE Computers)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($169.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($105.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24D3ST DVD/CD Writer ($15.00 @ PLE Computers)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($137.00 @ Umart)
Monitor: Asus VC239H 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($179.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $1484.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-06 16:25 AEST+1000

1) I changed out the RAM for something a bit cheaper, it's the same speed so it does not really matter.
2) I changed out the Define R4 for the R5 which is a much improved newer version, it has too many improvements to list but the big ones you should care about are that it is easier to build in, it is quieter and it has better cooling which also contributes to more quiet operation because the other parts don't need to ramp up the fans as much, I think it's well worth the extra money.
3) I changed the PSU for a better one, it has a longer warranty and higher capacity for a little less money.
4) I changed the monitor for an IPS one, this will be useful both because the image quality is better and if you need to have someone else looking at the screen along with you for work the wide viewing angles will help them see what you are showing them much better than on a TN screen. Also better image quality leads to less eye strain in general.

The R5 is a good case but it isn't worth the crazy premium that all fractal design cases have in Aus. With the money saved going for a Phanteks P400s or Enthoo Pro M you can fit in a 960/380, which is a large upgrade.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

AVeryLargeRadish posted:

Is that really going to help for a music production machine where I would assume quiet operation is very important? I did not want to assume that they were using closed headphones vs open ones or studio monitors so I figured building towards quiet operation was more important than the video card for GPU accelerated math or something.

No you're absolutely right, I read your reply but only skimmed the first post like an idiot. I would still recommend that for Australian builds you look at other case manufacturers, everything fractal design is inexplicably very expensive here which moves all their cases into price brackets where they are less competitive.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Techspot did a cool article on memory scaling up to 4000Mhz in a high end system. I've linked the gaming section there as I feel it's most relevant to the average user of this thread. Pretty incredibly, CPU intensive games showed improvements all the way up to 4000MHz. Definitely worth looking at 3000-3600MHz memory for people getting high end systems.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Given that the 480 is almost the best we're getting out of Polaris (it's 2304 cores versus a full fat 2560 iirc?), it'll be a relatively long wait for the 490 based off Vega. Reports are saying October/November.

480 and the XR341CK is definitely the budget option versus the 1070 and the X34, that's +$150 on the GPU and +$300 on the monitor to get the green team experience.

The XR341CK is getting refreshed soon as the XR342CK so I'd definitely wait for that though (even if only for price drops on the older stuff).

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Nitramster posted:

Holy hell I got my Fractal Design Define S. I thought the S stood for small, haha, this thing is massive.

The S is for silent. The Nano S is it's smaller equivalent.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

WHAT A GOOD DOG posted:

Can someone help me find something for my brother? He, against my wishes, bought an Alienware x51 3 years ago. It features things like an external 330W PSU, and a very small case and an absolute nightmare of poo poo to deal with inside of it.

He's been complaining that every so often, his graphics card will just crash, "display driver stopped working", etc. while playing games. Since he's had it for 3 years, I figured it was his PSU not being able to supply enough power, due to deterioration and also because it seems like a nightmare. It has, among other things, an i7-3770 and a GTX 660.

Looking into it, this thing has a power board that is not upgradeable, and I'm worried getting a new external PSU will cause it to harm the power board (=\) and other components. I recommended he just take the processor, cooler, hard drive, RAM, and graphics card out and put them into a new case and get a new motherboard/PSU. He said that seemed to be too much of a hassle. So I figured he could just get a GPU with a lower power draw I guess.

So I suggested he get a 950. It's better than his 660, and it has a lower power draw. But the issue is that they're all so loving tiny and because his case is so small, he'd need a blower style cooler (I think). I'm not certain there even is a blower style GTX 950. Can someone tell me if this is the best way to handle this stupid situation, or maybe he should get a 960 instead? I'm just not certain what could be causing his crashes other than an issue with the PSU or the GPU.

If you wait a week you can get him a GTX 1060. It's 120w, comes in blower designs, and is a hilariously big performance upgrade. The 960 would be a much, much smaller performance increase (the 1060 is looking to be twice as fast as a 960) for not too much less.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Friendly reminder that AMD still has way higher CPU overhead in DX11 and OpenGL, so if you have a lovely ancient CPU it's probably worth looking at a Nvidia alternative.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

junidog posted:

Building my first computer, and I have some dumbshit cabling questions (I've got a modular PSU):
1) My GPU takes a single 8 pin, while my PSU only has a video car plug/cord with two ends, a 6+2 and a 6. The 6+2 will fit, but that involves plugging a cut-corner piece into an uncut-corner slot on the GPU (slides in just fine, but isn't technically a match, I guess). Alternatively I could use the adapter that came with the GPU, which converts two 6 pins to the requisite 8 pin. I can use that by plugging the two 6 pin bits from the single PSU cord, but that leaves the 2 prong hanging by itself, and it seems questionable to merge two ends of the same cord back down to one plug.
2) My PSU came with a weird CPU cord adapter thing that splits one CPU 8 pin into 2 8 pins. Can I use this as an extension cord if I only need one end of it, and leave the other dangling? I can make it reach without the extension, but the extra 4" makes it much cleaner.
3) When I have an unused end of a split cord (e.g. if I go for the first solution to (1) I'd have an unused live 6 prong dangling in the cable) should I do anything with it? It seems stupid/dangerous to leave live cords just chilling in the box, but I guess before modular PSUs that was even more common.

1. Use the 6+2 plugs. That's what they're there for.
2. There's no reason you can't use it as an extension.
3. Just leave them dangling, there is no risk.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Wheany posted:

Finally got those mosfet coolers installed. It seems to help a a bit. It takes 1:40 before the first throttling, when it took about 40 seconds before.

I should have installed these a year ago and I might have gotten a few extra duty cycles out of the cpu. At this point it's too little too late

I would be very careful using that CPU on a motherboard that is not rated to handle it's TDP. It can very easily lead to an electrical fire when the VRMs fail.

I wish I was kidding

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Bass Bottles posted:

Can someone explain to a computer noob what Wheany is doing wrong to cause a risk like this? Is it something clearly out of the ordinary and easily avoidable??

AM3+ (the socket his motherboard uses) is really old and supports a broad range of CPUs with different TDPs. To avoid having to overbuild every motherboard, manufacturers rate their power delivery systems for certain wattages of CPUs. I don't know exactly what board that they has, but the fact that it came without VRM heatsinks and is throttling after 40 seconds means it isn't rated for his 125w FX8370. It's a relatively easy thing to avoid by checking reviews and specs, but absolutely moronic that you have to. It's easy that the decision is made for you by AMD CPUs sucking, so you can just go Intel and avoid the whole malarkey.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Hot Dog Day #82 posted:

Hello everybody!

Way back on the first page I asked for a build for a computer, it's my first build in about 10 odd years and I'll likely be taking this list to the local Microcenter and going with them for my parts (and their warranties).

Anyways, with the blessing of you good strangers I'm thinking of walking through those doors and giving them this list to play with. I primarily play Overwatch, Total War: Warhammer and every Paradox game under the sun (all games which are CPU intensive, or so I'm told). I'll likely be doing VR stuff as well, once games and not glorified tech demos are being produced for them.

Anyways, here goes! I don't want to spend much over 2500, monitor included:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($344.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($106.99 @ Best Buy)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: EVGA SuperSC 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($160.58 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($699.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.88 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($140.00)
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 27.0" 144Hz Monitor ($659.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $2555.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-20 22:22 EDT-0400

Go for a XB271HU over the PG278Q. It's a newer model with an IPS screen instead of a TN one, which is a hell of a lot nicer. Also make sure to go for a Fractal Design R5 instead of the R4, it's newer and has noticeable improvements in many areas. Other than that, you're good to go. You're spending more than the average in a few areas, but it's obviously in budget and you'll end up with a hell of a PC :)

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

I just did two different builds in Phanteks P400S cases. One for a friend, and one for myself (I migrated my current system into the case). It's bloody fantastic for the money. Phanteks build quality, Velcro cable straps, noise dampening, 3 fan 3 speed fan controller, RGB LED controller (with included downlight thing), separated PSU shroud. I'm very happy with it, and I recommend it wholeheartedly for anyone looking in the price range.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

priznat posted:

Ever see an Enthoo Evolv in microATX? It looks really great (I've seen some other phanteks cases and their build quality is outstanding) and I have it as my favourite for whenever I do a new build. I haven't seen one in person yet though.

They seem to vary in price really wildly from different sellers, which is weird. Perhaps not being produced anymore?

I've build in three Evolv mATX's. They're fantastic cases, but they're sorely missing a lot of the newer Phanteks internal layout. This word of a newer model is great, brings the mATX inline with the newer ITX and ATX versions. Phanteks are without a doubt the best case company out right now.

The P400s is easily OP/goon recommended good. Especially in Aus where Phanteks cases avoid most of the aussie mark-up that hits fractal design/corsair/NZXT et all.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

If anyone has built a PC recently with a MSI Z170 Gaming or Krait motherboard, check out MSI's site. If you register your motherboard you can claim a code for Total War: Warhammer, a cool and good game.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Biodome posted:

This is great stuff! Thank you, good to know about the overkill. I have a 1440p monitor so I might run it at that instead but it would probably keep up, right?

Also, thanks for the nvidia suggestion. I'll get to ordering.

If you have a 1440p monitor neither the 1070 or the 1080 are strictly overkill. Definitely don't go lower than a 1070 if it's in budget, it sits on similar price to performance but the added performance will be very, very appreciated. Hell, even the 1080 would help you out in a lot of triple A games at 1440p, though it is less optimal for price/performance (the 1070 is 75% as fast and 60% of the cost)>

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Bioshuffle posted:

My goal is to play GTA V and Fallout 4 at 60fps. I currently have a i5-2500k. My understanding from these threads was that the i5-2500k would not significantly bottleneck games, and that I could get a GTX 1070 and play modern titles without issue.

However, does this video prove that the i5-2500k can bottleneck current generation video games? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK0ReQPoiz0

I'd hate to drop money on an upgrade and be stuck at playing around 40fps.

The 2500K is a great CPU, especially when overclocked, but you will be "bottlenecked" in the more CPU heavy AAA games coming out now. With the 1070 you will see big gains from an overclocked 6600/6700K/5820K (in ascending order) and 3000MHz+ memory over your 2500K in demanding titles (TW:W, GTAV, RoTTR, W3 etc). FO4 in particular scales massively with memory bandwidth, so if that's a priority for you I'd seriously consider the upgrade.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

modeski posted:

If anyone's able to critique the latest incarnation of my new gaming machine I'd be most appreciative. This in AUD$, so we pay out the arse for everything. I'm debating whether to go for a GTX 1070 or 1080, with the latter being $400 more expensive. I'd like to more to a 1440p 144Hz monitor, and the consensus seems to be that IPS panels are much better than the equivalent TNs. I'll probably wait a couple of months to save up the last few hundred bucks and also see if prices settle down a bit.

I'll be dual-booting Linux (everyday use) and Windows 7 (music production, games). Will probably buy 10 when DirectX 12 games start coming out. I want to able to play AAA games at 1440p above 60fps on Ultra settings...because why not go the whole hog. Oh and I'll be overclocking the CPU, and maybe the GPU if I can get a variant with a built-in AIO cooler. Unsure as to whether I'll need more fans - need to do some more research on airflow etc.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($332.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Silverstone TD02-E 92.5 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($125.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($299.00 @ Scorptec)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($105.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($205.00 @ Umart)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($1249.00)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Luxe ATX Full Tower Case ($199.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.00 @ CPL Online)
Monitor: Acer XB270HU bprz 27.0" 144Hz Monitor ($899.00)
Total: $3572.00

Buy your GPU off Amazon. Even after shipping and conversion you'll save literally hundreds of dollars. Make sure to only buy from the Amazon.com seller and not a third party, because otherwise you'll get screwed on shipping.

I build lots of computers for Aussies and I always buy graphic cards off Amazon.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

xthetenth posted:

You mean US amazon?

Absolutely. It's basically the only Amazon for Aussies (amazon au is an eBook only deal). I just saved my friend $200 AUD getting his aftermarket 1070 from Amazon US over a local seller.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

modeski posted:

I'll look into that. Just wondering about the warranty. Might suck to have to RMA a dud card back to the States, even if it's possible.

You can use your local RMA centre. Eg I had an Amazon bought MSI GTX 570 that I got repaired through the Australian MSI RMA service.

You can also do returns with Amazon and they pay return shipping.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

The Z170 Sabertooth motherboards are only rated for 2133/2400Mhz memory, as they're marketing towards "maximum stability". Also the dominator platinum um memory kits are pure wank, they're overpriced purely for aesthetics. Unless you really really want the look you can get better kits for half the cost.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

There is literally no reason, at all, to even consider getting two RX480's instead of a GTX1070.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Grumbletron 4000 posted:

I just bought this at best buy.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-ultra-desktop-amd-fx-series-16gb-memory-2tb-hard-drive-black-blue/4592900.p?id=1219775848732

I wasn't really looking to buy a new machine but I saw this at the store for WAY cheaper than it should have been. Somebody had it mislabeled with the price of a lesser model. They honored the price on the tag and I walked away with it for about $500 after taxes.

Did I get a bargain? It runs WoW and Tf2 really well but I was wondering what it's weak spots are and if theres any cheapish things I can get that would improve it drastically.

I don't want to be a dick but you definitely didn't get a bargain, and you should probably return it if you can.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

well why not posted:

Work is keen to buy me a 4k monitor, looking at the Samsung U28E590D. it's £328 on Amazon. PLS and 28" look good to me. Don't wanna break their budget, but is there a better deal in the UK?

Mostly used for productivity, maybe watching movies and some gaming (dark souls, Overwatch maybe. Other console ports. Nothing twitchy basically.)

(xpost from monitor thread)

It's not PLS, it's TN, so the usual caveats apply. Colours will look bad, and you will have colour shifting in the corners of the display due to it being 28" and TN.

Really I've never understood the 4K TN monitors, because whatever image quality benefit 4K gives is negated by the shittiness of TN.

Have you looked into the P2715Q? It's a nice 27" 4K IPS screen and typically not too much more expensive than the TN models.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Q_res posted:

So, I was just gifted a Dell Ultrasharp U2515H. It's a really nice 1440P@60Hz IPS monitor. I'd really love to use it, but I know my current system can't play games at that resolution. My problem is, I'm not sure it's worth trying to upgrade the video card. Unfortunately I'm looking for a new job, I could swing a new 1060 but a whole system is a good 4 or 5 months away at this rate. I have an i5-750 oc'd to 3.36Ghz, 16GB of RAM, an 840 EVO SSD and a 2GB GTX 760. I know the CPU is going to hold my system back at this point, just not sure if it's bad enough to make a 1060 not worth it so I can use this swanky new monitor...

tl;dr - Is it worth one last video card upgrade or would I just be flushing money down the toilet? Thanks.

Increased resolution leads to an increase in GPU requirements, but almost no increase in CPU requirements. If you can play a game at 60FPS at 1080p with your 760, you will be able to get 60FPS at 1440p if your GPU is fast enough.

Considering your circumstances I'd definitely say GPU upgrade now (the 1060 is great), then CPU upgrade down the track when you can afford it.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

BIG HEADLINE posted:

Yeah, the 'it boots without the PCIe lead plugged in' thing makes me think there's a short in the PSU.


At this point they're all still pretty much the same, but yeah, EVGA, ASUS, and Gigabyte, in that order, simply due to service reputations, relative 'sizes,' and EVGA's "Step Up" program.

Asus has literally the worst service reputation of any tech company, so I dunno why it makes that list on that merit.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

BIG HEADLINE posted:

Yeah, but they have localized regional service depots, whereas I still think Zotac will send your poo poo even in the US back to China.

Regions can play a big part with service. I've heard only bad things about Australian EVGA support, but they are the golden standard in the states.

Luckily we have our retailers responsible for returns/refunds, in addition to the manufacturer's warranty.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Khablam posted:

Honestly, I don't agree. In the mid-range AMD and nVidia are pretty even, with the RX480 being a superb mid-range card, slightly slower than the 1060 but a bit cheaper, and with OC performance exceeding the 1060 making their absolute potential closer. If it is a matter of cost, RX480+freesync is going to be a nicer experience than 1060+no-sync every time. You may prefer to turn down settings to get 90+ FPS but a lot of people would prefer ~60 with a few dips, and in that is where *sync shines the most.

I'm a bit confused by this post. The average OC potential of the 480 is completely abysmal, and doesn't even come close to filling the gap with the 1060. It isn't even cheaper, with aftermarket 1060s being available at MSRP and aftermarket 480s (the ones you'd actually want to buy) at $270-300

I agree with you on the Freesync comment, but if Freesync didn't exist the 480 would be outclassed by the 1060 in every feesable way.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

My mates new MSI board has a really neat feature where if you boot the computer by holding the power button instead of pressing it, it goes straight to the UEFI.

Definitely the best implementation of straight to UEFI I've used.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Everything else being equal, 3200C16 will be faster than 3000C15. For the same reason that DDR3 1600C8 is outpaced massively by DDR4 3200C16, the latency is identical but there is still a bandwidth increase.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Paul MaudDib posted:

You're gonna need benchmarks for that statement. It's certainly not going to be supportable in gaming benchmarks and I question whether it's even going to be supportable in memory-latency sensitive benchmarks like database stuff.

Anandtech's conclusion:


http://www.anandtech.com/show/8959/ddr4-haswell-e-scaling-review-2133-to-3200-with-gskill-corsair-adata-and-crucial/10

(not that you should buy DDR4-2400 with lovely CAS, this is a comparison across frequency as you increase CAS in direct proportion)

In actuality though good fast memory is gaining a significant performance increases on games like FO4 nowadays - like up to a 22% framerate increase vs the poo poo tier memory.

http://wccftech.com/fallout-4-performance-heavily-influenced-by-ram-speed-according-to-report/

The last link is basically what I am quoting. Digital foundry first reported it but it's been tested by a bunch of other sites as well now as well. In CPU limited scenarios in newer AAA games performance increases can be seen from 2133 all the way up to 4000MHz (though it definitely plateaus around 3200MHz), and if you look at the kits they test with and indeed most of them on the market follow a fairly linear increase of CAS latency with bandwidth (2800C14/3000C15/3200C16 etc).

I'm on mobile and my touchscreen's freaking out, otherwise I'd get more specific links.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Jago posted:

Is this our group-think opinion here? You're being very authoritative. Moot point as the RAM in question appears to be unavailable anyway.

It's really not. RAM is RAM. There are like three companies that actually make the stuff, everything is a rebadge. If you get RAM and it doesn't run at the listed speed, return it. Plus basically all ram comes with extremely long to lifetime warranties because fail rates are very low.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

The 600p is a decent upgrade over a SATA SSD in certain workloads, but they have issues with throttling and inconsistent speeds when you fill the write buffer. It was enough for Anandtech to not recommend it for the average user over a SATA SSD, with it actually being a downgrade in certain ways.

So it isn't really worth the extra hassle.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

All the ones that are "regular SSD name + M.2" are just SATA SSDs that using the M.2 physical form factor (confusing as it is). They perform identically to their SATA counterparts, but are a bit more compact at the cost of a M.2 port that you could use for an actually faster NVMe M.2 SSD (such as a 960 EVO/PRO).

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

VelociBacon posted:

Only mentioning it because I've now seen it on a couple recent pages. Ram speed is really not something to care too much about if you're building a gaming PC. You can find benchmarks online that demonstrate the ~1% FPS gains. I haven't looked into it for rendering and the like but I would have to think most people in here are just gaming and doing light media editing.

Many modern games scale massively with RAM speed. In fallout 4 you get great scaling up to 4000MHz+, and in other triple A games you can get good scaling into the mid three thousands.

What you've said is the conventional wisdom but it isn't true anymore.

Here are DDR4 comparisons up to 4000MHz, and you can find other good reviews from Digital Foundry on YouTube.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

ETPC posted:

So I've come into a hefty chunk of money and I wanted to update my system, but I'm worried I'm *completely* overdoing it. Someone tell me if I've lost my mind or if this is a good build or not?

COUNTRY: Canada
SYSTEM USE: Primarily games, but it's also a media streamer and a office computer.
BUDGET: Not an issue.
PRO WORK?: Nope.
NATIVE RES?: 1920x1200, though I'm gonna be getting a 4k monitor sometime in the summer when the new panels come out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($467.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($285.98 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: GeIL EVO X 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($399.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($314.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($314.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar NAS 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($314.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: be quiet! Silent Base 800 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($133.32 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($419.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-16D1HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($99.00 @ Vuugo)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Z PCIe 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($128.97 @ NCIX)
Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260HMWDTX1 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($90.47 @ Amazon Canada)
Headphones: Kingston HyperX Butt Revolver Headset ($119.99 @ DirectCanada)
Speakers: Logitech Z906 500W 5.1ch Speakers ($399.99 @ Amazon Canada)
UPS: CyberPower CP685AVR UPS ($87.99 @ PC Canada)
Total: $3698.62

Video card right now is a 1070, I should mention. Also, can I reuse my Hyper 212 EVO with the 7700k?

Take money from the PSU/Hard drives/Blueray burner/sound card (Christ you certainly don't need that) and put it into a better CPU cooler so you can run that 7700K at 5GHz, a faster kit of RAM, and more GPU horsepower. Those are the things that are actually going to help your game performance substantially.

When it comes time to get a new monitor, I'd skip 4K and go for a 1440p144Hz GSync IPS screen like the Acer XB271HU. The resolution decrease is mainly a positive as it is half as intensive on your GPU, and the increased smoothness is massively worth it. The only monitors that I'd recommend over that are an X34 if you want 21:9 or an Asus PG279UQ (4K144Hz HDR) if you can wait and want to go all out.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Status_Surge posted:

i do actually value you helping me out, and i promise on my SA account that i'm not trolling. give me 2-3 weeks and ill make a post on my build. that said i am actually this terrible when it comes to picking parts for my computer. that being said this is what i've revised my build to.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Jet)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-4000 Memory ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-4000 Memory ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 960 Pro 2.0TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($1299.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: NVIDIA Titan X (Pascal) 12GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($1603.44 @ Amazon)
Video Card: NVIDIA Titan X (Pascal) 12GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($1603.44 @ Amazon)
Case: Thermaltake Level 10 GT LCS ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($136.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Acer XB321HK BMIPHZ 32.0" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor ($1288.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Corsair Sabre RGB Wired Optical Mouse ($49.99 @ B&H)
Headphones: Corsair VOID 7.1 Channel Headset ($99.99 @ Corsair)
Total: $7166.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-30 12:51 EST-0500

Assuming that your major priority is gaming, this build is a lot closer to optimal. Fast cores, fast ram, and fast graphics cards are what actually matter. With your budget, the next logical step is to do a full water cooling loop. A not-insignificant investment (thought I doubt it matters), and it lets you have the best case of near silence and near ambient temperatures. Plus, it looks dope. For monitor, I would either recommend the Acer X34, or the XB271HU. The X34 is an ultrawide, so it is way more immersive and spacious in games, and can play 21:9 content like most movies without black bars. The tradeoff versus the 16:9 XB271HU is that it is only 100Hz instead of 144Hz (though this is a small tradeoff as the noticeable difference between refresh rates reduces past about 90Hz).

Do you have a favoured colour combination? Aesthetically there is a lot of freedom between the motherboard/case/cooling loop/etc.

If you want just a plain black look and silence this is a potential build

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX FORMULA ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($388.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-4000 Memory ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-4000 Memory ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 960 Pro 2.0TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($1299.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Seagate Enterprise Capacity 10TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($563.08 @ Amazon)
Video Card: NVIDIA Titan X (Pascal) 12GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($1200.00)
Video Card: NVIDIA Titan X (Pascal) 12GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($1200.00)
Case: be quiet! DARK BASE PRO 900 | BLACK ATX Full Tower Case ($219.90 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1600W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($384.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 34.0" 3440x1440 100Hz Monitor ($1099.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Logitech G900 CHAOS SPECTRUM Wireless Optical Mouse ($122.22 @ Amazon)
Other: 5.2GHz 7700K ($719.99)
Other: Topre Realforce RGB ($269.00)
Other: EKWB Cooling Loop ($832.96)
Total: $8691.09
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-31 19:37 EST-0500

The mentioned EK water cooling loop is here. The keyboard and mouse are extremely well regarded and my pick (but are, as always, subjective), but I left the headphones slot empty as a great ranger of preferences come into account (we have a really good headphones thread for that!).

This is just as far as I could take it with parts in stock, and more reserved aesthetic choices. As Big Headline mentioned, if you want to go crazy and try and find one, the ASRock Z270 SuperCarrier is best in class, and the dual 16x PCI-E slots actually have a measurable benefit for Titan X Pascal SLI. The high end ASRocks are also very well regarded for their extreme memory support, and you could probably try and find some DDR4-4266 for nothing else other than having the literal very best.

If you want to go for a particular aesthetic the sky is the limit there as well.


E: I feel I should too add to everyone else saying that this is a poor investment, but you already know that :shrug:

BurritoJustice fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Feb 1, 2017

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Status_Surge posted:

so should i go with 64 gigs of ddr4 3200 ram or 32gb of 3733? also if im running 3 Acer XB271HU's will i be better off with just one titan xp?

edit: or should i just stick with ddr4 2400 so i don't have to overclock?

The DDR4-4000 kit that I picked above is on the QVL list for the SuperCarrier, so you know it will work to it's rated speed.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012


Games scale more with bandwidth, and there is a measurable improvement for 3866 over 3200. At a given ratio of MHz/CL the higher bandwidth is better (3200/16 is WAY better than 1600/8 even though they have the same latency). The latency advantage for the 3200 kit is small and doesn't balance out the bandwidth advantage the 3866 has.

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BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Mad Katter posted:

Thanks for that, the Intel is pretty close to the price point I was looking at, and seems to be available at the shop around the corner from work.

Not sure I can justify an extra $30 for the 960.

Really appreciate your help, I'm looking forward to finally assembling things.

The 960 EVO is comically better than the 600p, which is actually a fairly mediocre drive that can get beaten by fast SATA drives in some workloads and often is barely faster. To quote Anandtech:

"Anandtech posted:

Even with our expectations thus lowered, the Intel SSD 600p fails to measure up. But this isn't a simple case of a budget drive that turns out to be far slower than its specifications would imply. The SSD 600p does offer peak performance that is as high as promised. The trouble is that it only provides that performance in a narrow range of circumstances, and most of our usual benchmarks go far beyond that and show the 600p at its worst.

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