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Subjunctive posted:Thank you for this. This is one of the most valuable threads on SA. Without a doubt, it's the reason I paid my  . Thanks for keeping it alive.The CPU section recommends a 6600 for non-overclocking, not a 6500 (which is the price/performance sweet spot last I checked). Intentional? Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 18:31 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 18:16
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If you game at all you will absolutely notice the improvement between a $10 mouse and a $60-80 mouse. It's worth splurging on, unlike shiny keyboards. Ergonomics is important (and subjective), as is number of buttons. My litmus test is "can I play D3 one-handed with this," because that game mandates a free hand for my drink, and I've found 4 side buttons is just generally a good number for most games. But before ergonomics and before buttons, if you play anything other than mmos, get something with a proper sensor. Precision is nice, but even nicer is not getting hosed by the pointer acceleration/prediction bullshit that poorer sensors employ. You have no idea how many of those missed skillshots aren't your fault. Subjective opinions ahead: The best compromise I've found between ergonomics, sensor, and buttons is the Logitech G502. For multi-genre gaming it's just fantastic. Everything else falls short in either number of buttons (razer), quality of sensor (Logitech and Razer's mmo mice), or price. Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 20:49 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 20:47
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Vintersorg posted:G502 looks hideous. You'll notice looks was not among my valued criteria  It's the thing by which I interface with my computer, and it spends most of the hours in the day underneath my hand... I care a lot more about how it functions than how it looks, and I might go so far as to say you should to?That said, the garish LEDs can be turned off, which makes it look much more muted. And if you can believe it under all that styling, the shape is very similar to the MX518... the old soldier by which all mice shall be judged. o7 Edit: the DARKFIELD TECHNOLOGY used in the MX Master and co is great for using with a laptop because it works on any surface. Those sensors are not so great for games that aren't Crusader Kings 2, however. Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 21:49 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 21:42
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Is there a neutral source (not logical increments) that lists performance equivalents between AMD and Nvidia graphics? A friend offered to let me borrow his 680 while I wait for Pascal, but I don't know how that compares to my worn-out old HD 6850
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May 5, 2016 18:21
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Thanks! I found that, but some of the placements made me skeptical. I guess the numbering systems are deceiving.
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May 5, 2016 18:47
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Republicans posted:I did too knowing what was coming but I said "gently caress it, the 970 is more than enough for 1080p." I feel like if I were gonna get anything better it would be part of a whole new machine in service of a fancy new monitor or some awesome VR thing that justifies owning a VR headset. I see this comment a lot and I don't get it. VR is a lot like a good joystick, or a monitor, or a graphics card. No one game by itself is ever gonna "justify" it, you either want one or you don't. But conveniently, there's more than one game that utilizes these technologies! It's not a one-off value proposition, you'll keep using it until it falls apart or is replaced. So if you want one, just get it. If you're waiting for some magical dream title that's singularly worth $800 for hardware that's a funky mindset and you're going to wait forever.
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May 8, 2016 20:57
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The thing is that you want a fairly beefy machine to feed a card like the 1080/70 so OCing is what makes the most sense here. Can you explain what you mean by this? The power consumption of the 1000 series is phenomenally low, and I don't know of any game that will bottleneck noticeably on an i5-6500 or equivalent. I was under the impression that you could drop a 1070 into an Average Joe build for a pretty dramatic improvement Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 22:00 on May 9, 2016 |
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May 9, 2016 21:58
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You could put a GTX 1070 in a system like that and you would see a large improvement, but you would see a larger one with the CPU clocked to 4.6GHz & overclocked RAM, the budget allowed that so I went for it. Take a look at this video where they pair an i5-6500 with a Titan X and RAM clocked at a number of different speeds, notice that there are substantial gains in some games based both on the CPU overclock vs stock and the overclocked RAM vs stock. While we can no longer overclock the i5-6500(Intel "fixed" that.) this video provides a good illustration of the differences in performance between an overclocked system and a stock system when paired with a very fast GPU. Gotcha. I've seen the video (I think you or HMS Boromir linked it when I was considering my own upgrades), it's pretty fascinating. I just misinterpreted what you said as a more general declaration, and I was curious if the CPU upgrade was more necessary than I thought. If don't strictly need one right now, I'm going to wait and see how much hyperthreading gets used in DX12 games before I choose. Edit: (wait on the cpu, I mean. I can't buy that 1070 fast enough  )
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May 9, 2016 22:25
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Josef bugman posted:And see this is why I don't trust myself at all. No offence meant at all admiraldennis, but I am much to cack handed to be able to do anything like this. I'm a clumsy gently caress and I've dropped my heavy multi-head screwdriver on my current motherboard easily a dozen times. They're resilient things, and also one of the cheapest components to replace if you gently caress something up. Because of the complexity and difficulty identifying which miniscule thing is broken, it's also really easy to return them as DOA to your vendor. Really the CPU is the only thing that you might be stuck with if you damage it, and that's a very simple install. If you follow the guide video in the OP you'll be just fine. I can't recommend enough that you at least try to assemble your own build. If you mess something up, you can always take it to the guys you were going to have build it for you and pay them roughly the same amount to fix it. But if you don't have any comfort poking around in your case, you're going to have to go to them every time any little thing goes wrong. I can tell you from experience that is going to be a huge source of frustration for you.
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May 11, 2016 15:54
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peak debt posted:I have the Define Nano with a dual fan card and while I also thought they were really close to the power supply I don't get any temperature problems while gaming so I didn't see the need to change anything... How do you not run into issues with number of available USB ports when gaming on an ITX board? Just going down to mATX was an issue for me. I'm heavier on peripherals than most (TrackIR, separate joystick and throttle, headset, Xbox and steam controllers, mouse, keyboard, wireless keyboard for when I sit on the couch and steam to the TV, etc) but even when I cut out the non-essentials I couldn't make it work. I'd love to go mITX when I eventually upgrade to Skylake, but I've currently maxed out my ATX's slots and I doubt an ITX is going to have room for expansion cards. Are there any specialty boards in the smaller form factors that support peripheral whoring? More USB slots in lieu of graphics outputs, or something?
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May 13, 2016 15:07
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Ninkobei posted:A gentle reminder to new computer builders to be sure to tighten their cpu cooler slowly, alternating one turn with each screw. A friend of mine decided he could put only two screws in at once and tighten them before putting the other two on. It bent/warped the edges of his skylake chip which seems to have caused some sort of motherboard short circuit, as well as permanently damaging the chip. Do you have a picture of what his CPU looked like afterwards?
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May 16, 2016 22:15
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I have a stupid question, and I'm not sure if it's thread-appropriate or not: is there any single piece of software that does a good job of monitoring resource consumption to help you figure out where your bottlenecks or part failures are? The values in Task Manager seem completely arbitrary. When I have issues and pull it up, it'll often report the 7.5gb of memory in use as 96% of what's available, even though I have 16gb installed (I multi-task a lot). Ditto for the CPU numbers
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May 18, 2016 19:29
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excidium posted:Aren't the new cards still going to be super insanely expensive? I'm trying to stick to the ~$300 mark for the GPU. The 1070 is going to be $379. That's a 26% increase in cost over a hypothetical $300 980ti, for more than double the performance iirc. Only you know what you can spend, but it's important to look at the big picture, not just the price tags. One of these cards will last you much longer than the other. I personally feel like we're not doing anyone any favors by encouraging them to pick up last gen, but different strokes for different folks I guess  Edit: on second thought you should all ignore me and buy old or AMD, so that the shipping wait on my 1070 is shorter
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May 20, 2016 15:50
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Deviant posted:Do you have thoughts on the 1080 vs 1070 as a person who seems to know numbers? I was all gung ho for the 1080 but i'm not sure how it compares to the 70. Oh no, I'm far from an expert. It looks like I overestimated the generation gap and underestimated the gap between 980 and 980ti (I've never had one and didn't realize how good the OC was), See Boromir and Radish's answers for a more accurate summary.
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May 20, 2016 17:10
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fozzy fosbourne posted:I had asked here about experiments in regards to case airflow and found this article interesting http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1 That was a fascinating read, thank you. I have pets galore or I'd be switching from positive to negative internal pressure right now. Definitely moving a front fan to the side mount, though!
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Jun 3, 2016 04:56
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The 7970 won't be enough for VR, you need a minimum of the GTX 970 or R9 390 for VR, of the current cards coming out I would recommend the GTX 1070 or maybe the RX 490 depending on how the 490 ends up being priced and how fast it is. Either card should be plenty for VR even when the requirements start climbing and will give you a great experience outside of VR. If you cannot afford one of those the RX 480 will probably be the best choice if it lives up to the sort of performance AMD claims it will have. There is also the GTX 1060 which should be enough if speculation about the performance level and price it will target end up true but that card is nothing but rumors and smoke right now and I would expect to see it by August at the earliest. One thing to keep in mind is that the 1080/70/60 have a bunch of features that should greatly speed up their VR performance so for now I would favor them for VR stuff. Whoa, I didn't hear about the 1060 et al, had to look that up. Do you have any guesses on what the performance per dollar hero for this generation is going to be, once they're all available? I was assuming 1070 but now I'm not so sure.
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Jun 3, 2016 16:15
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Does anyone make something that rivals the R5 in quality but has more complete filter coverage? Or are there add-on filters that don't cost an arm and a leg? Something else I'm not thinking of? The airflow experiment linked earlier indicated that for three fans or fewer, the side panel fan is the most useful intake, and that in three fan setups two exhausts (top and rear nearest the cpu) perform better than two intakes. I just moved my stuff into a Fractal Design R5 with three fans, to get positive pressure and keep out pet hair. It works spectacularly. But my tired old graphics card has been getting awfully hot in there. I want to try those fan setups and see if I get any improvement, but the R5 only has filters on the bottom and front. I'm worried that an unfiltered side intake is going to suck in cat hair, even with positive case pressure. On top of doing two exhausts instead of two intakes, they also recommend leaving unused vents open if you don't mind the noise. But both of those seem out of the question while I'm living in Hairball City. Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 3, 2016 |
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Jun 3, 2016 19:57
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I don't have a build for review (though I will soon), I just wanted to congratulate HMS Boromir on finally loving assembling his new machine!  How many months was that in the making? edit:  MSI 1070s in stock! How do these coolers compare with the Gigabyte Gaming 8G that AVeryLargeRadish recommended earlier in the week? Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Jun 28, 2016 |
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Jun 28, 2016 19:06
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Bleh Maestro posted:Does anyone know how the hell nowinstock works? It's like amazing voodoo to me. Scripts that check the vendor pages every 30 seconds, I imagine. What I don't understand is WHY they do it, there doesn't seem to be any ads to monetize. Amazing voodoo indeed though, thanks to them I got that sweet sweet Gigabyte 1070 with the triple fan 
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Jun 29, 2016 02:35
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Saukkis posted:I think there was recently some test of different fan configurations that showed the importance of side fan, so it is probably better to choose a smaller cooler that fits inside with a side fan. Speaking of that test, has anyone figured out how to implement the side fan intake in an R5 without totally compromising the filtration? Fractal Design didn't see fit to put a filter over there
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Jun 30, 2016 04:36
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Ingenium posted:Crosspostring this from the GPU thread: I've seen the gigabyte G1 recommended as a well designed cooler on the lower end of prices available. But other than that, the general sentiment seems to be that EVGA and MSI are trustworthy and the models are all fairly close to each other. You're not wrong, at least two of the msi ones are literally the same card with just a different factory clock and a higher price tag Saukkis posted:Cut up pantyhose between the case and fan? HalloKitty posted:Buy a Demciflex filter. I will try both of these :P
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Jun 30, 2016 13:34
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HalloKitty posted:Buy a Demciflex filter. I'm looking at their website and this one seems to be the sensible choice. $6 and done, while their kit for the R5 is over $70 and doesn't seem to include any of those side panel squares, just the case-unique shapes. Am I on the right track, has anyone else used these on an R5? Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 17:41
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HalloKitty posted:I've personally have a square 140mm Demciflex filter on the side of my Define R3. I sadly have the white mesh version, so it doesn't exactly blend in. The black one would be much better. It does the job of filtering, and doesn't fall off unless you pull on it. Good enough for me, thank you so much!
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Jun 30, 2016 17:59
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buffbus posted:These look really good but paying 3 times the cost of the filter for shipping is rough for those in the US. Ouch. I hadn't gotten that far yet, I'm still trying to figure out if I should order ferrous or non-ferrous for the R5 Edit: Yep, $15 to ship to FL. That's nasty. I feel like at that point I may as well try one of these and just hit it with a heatgun to tighten the mesh, as the reviews suggest. Is there something about the demciflex that makes them worth the premium? Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 19:20
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HalloKitty posted:Hah, drat, I didn't even know the company was in South Africa, I assumed it was American. I'm not from South Africa, I bought mine from a reseller on ebay (I live in Europe). Heh, fair enough. I ordered the amazon knock-off, will report back on how it fares
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Jun 30, 2016 22:03
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Re: demciflex filter availability on the last page, I found a decent amount of their stuff in stock at https://www.performance-pcs.com/, based in Florida. Only $4.95 to ship by USPS, if you don't mind snail mail. I have another airflow question though: This frequently linked test found that leaving unused fan mounts unblocked can help your temps dramatically... if I open up the unused top vents of my R5 and put a demciflex filter over them, will I still be able to maintain positive pressure with my one extra intake fan? Or is turning the entire top of the case into a vent too much for it to account for? If it matters, I've got two 140 intakes front and side, and a matching exhaust in rear. I'm worried that with so much air escaping out the top, it won't flow as forcefully out the little gaps and might let dust and hair in... with two cats and a dog we have a serious dander issue 
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Jul 1, 2016 17:14
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:I have another airflow question: This frequently linked test found that leaving unused fan mounts unblocked can help your temps dramatically... if I open up the unused top vents of my R5 and put a demciflex filter over them, will I still be able to maintain positive pressure with my one extra intake fan? Or is turning the entire top of the case into a vent too much for it to account for? This got swept away on the last page I think... does anyone know or at least have an educated guess?
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Jul 2, 2016 14:36
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Eletriarnation posted:If you have more intake fans than exhaust fans, opening up some extra fan ports that aren't in use will not prevent you from having positive pressure. It will cause that positive pressure to escape from all over instead of being focused out through the exhausts, but assuming your exhausts are sufficient and in good locations it should only make temperatures better and shouldn't make dust and other debris worse. It will be more noisy if your internal CPU/GPU fans are louder than the case fans as in many builds, but if you're OK with that you should be fine. Thanks! I just got a basic silverstone filter for the side intake, and I have a gigabyte 1070 coming if NewEgg ever ships it. Once I have both of those installed I'll take another look at the heat/noise and go from there. Right now my lovely old card is generating the bulk of the heat AND the noise, so with that gone I'm not sure which way I'll end up leaning.
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Jul 2, 2016 19:43
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Weasling Weasel posted:I'm not sure this is the right thread for self-build guidance or not, but I can't see where build problems would otherwise go, so here goes. Just bought a lot of components as recommended on this thread to give a self-build a go - spent the better past of 3 days now trying to get it all together, but I'm not able to get the PC to go into POST. I had a lot of issues trying to install the CPU cooler - the brackets for the cooler wouldn't line up with the back-bracket thing that I mounted on the motherboard, and one I popped one side in the other side would pop out, so I ended up having to sort of bruce-force it and I'm worried that would have caused an issue. Try reseating everything other than the CPU. I had a similar issue on my last rebuild, and after hours of frustration it turned out I had my wireless card in the wrong pci slot. I was too cocky to check my assembly fully and that was all it took to put it into a boot loop.
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Jul 3, 2016 14:59
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What country are you in? US. What are you using the system for? Gaming and Youtube. What's your budget? $1200, hard cap If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1080p high/ultra, potentially VR later I'm building a system for my roommate. He likes things consistent, doesnt like tinkering, so I'm trying to build him something simple and reliable. Stability is key. Overclocking is definitely out. Here's what I have so far: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ NCIX US) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.85 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($70.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.99 @ NCIX US) The card is a placeholder, since we won't be overclocking I'm just going to grab him whichever entry level 1070 comes in stock first. My main question is: what case and mobo do I put him in. I was thinking mATX or mITX, since it's a simple build and portability is nice. But the builder-to-be is a grumpy manbaby and he doesn't move his current computer often, so I don't think a smaller form factor is worth frustration or sacrifice (if any is necessary). Any suggestions? Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 16:32
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:What country are you in? US. Bueller? Bueller? Still kind of lost on this one
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Jul 6, 2016 06:25
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Eletriarnation posted:My opinion is that overclocking is easy enough that it's an odd decision to pay $1000+ for a PC and then not go for that performance, but if you're not going to do it then I'd get a microATX H170 (or B150/Q150) board. Mini-ITX is a bit of a price premium and more fiddly to work inside of if you actually make it much smaller, and if he won't care you might as well go for a more standard option. He also has the option to add some PCIe x1 cards or more drives if he wants later. As far as what board in particular, just get whatever is cheap and has the features you think are important from a manufacturer you trust. I agree completely, but he's the type of person who doesn't like complications (not a tinkerer) and will harass me if he thinks any issues he runs into are the result of the overclock. I'm going to draft him up an OC and non-OC list anyway, and let him decide. Between you and peak debt's posts it sounds like mATX is the sweet spot for this, but how do you know which motherboards have which features? PCPartPicker doesn't seem like a great comparison resource for that: I don't care how many sata ports a board has, I want to know how many USB slots it has, or how easy it is to overclock with, or how the audio quality is, or whether it has integrated wifi. Is there any easy way for a rookie to find that stuff out at a glance, or do I need to troll the specs and reviews of everything that fits and isn't a garbage brand? peak debt posted:mATX is a bit more comfortable to work in. Personally I wouldn't get a full size micro-tower anymore since they just take away too much space, i like the cube cases like the Corsair 240 better. That's personal preference though. I think I know what you mean, I helped someone put a system in a Fractal Design Mini and was surprised by how different an experience it was from my R5. Maybe a cube would come easier? It looks like the Node 804 is the highest rated cube on PCPartPicker, maybe we'll give that a go... the Corsair 240 has a much more appealing price, but reviews mention it being easily scratched and the fans being janky. Also I apologize, I forgot we were on a new thread and the OP quick picks are relevant again! Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 16:47
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tijag posted:Question about airflow in case. Edit: did not read fully, sorry. That's a fuckton of fans, but I'll still point to this test Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 17:27
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Eletriarnation posted:My method is to go on Newegg and look at the spec sheets they have side by side to compare, and usually I stop once I find the cheapest one that has all the features I want from a manufacturer I trust. It's a bit time consuming but I don't know of a good cross-manufacturer motherboard comparison tool. Something like audio quality wouldn't be covered except in a detailed review so my recommendation there is to try and find such a review to confirm any models that you have tentatively accepted. Sometimes you can't get the exact model that you want, but a review of a similar model from the same manufacturer would give you an idea of what you're dealing with. Fair enough. The guy I'm helping is a lot less picky than me and has way fewer peripherals, so I should be able to just get away with the quick pick on this one. He vetoed overclocking, so here's what I have: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($78.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.84 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($399.99) Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($82.67 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($70.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $1125.44 1070 is still a placeholder, that Windforce model never seems to get restocked. I might snag a more expensive one to get it done, meaning the exact card size might vary slightly I've never built in a small form factor, so if any of these selections seem dumb let me have it, don't assume there's informed reasoning here. Our group has been doing a lot of LAN parties lately and this guy keeps his machine on his desk, so I'm kind of experimenting with him as my guinea pig. Not totally sure about the case, leaning Corsair 240 since its smaller and cheaper than the Node 804, and on paper neither one seems to have a strong advantage. The only other thing I see recommended as frequently as those two is the Thermaltake V21, which is so suspiciously cheap that I'm guessing there's a reason it didn't make the quick picks list. Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 18:49
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Bleh Maestro posted:I assume there are a lot of people with Fractal R5's in here since it's recommended so much. http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/7
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Jul 10, 2016 03:47
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The Iron Rose posted:You really couldn't, not at sub 15 frames per second at 1280x720p on the lowest possible settings. The original advice about making do with integrated graphics was specifically to get an i5 in on the poster's budget, for this very reason.  Maybe you specifically can't, but I've played real time multiplayer titles at that framerate and lower, when I was a broke college kid. Inconvenient != unplayable. Try to keep your personal baselines distinct from actual baselines when giving gear recommendations, not everyone's budget has flex. Khablam posted:If you're ever curious enough, there's always someone who has made a YT of whatever hardware/game combination you want. There is some serious loving ivory tower posting itt. I didn't see a single gameplay issue there... it's just not pretty? Edit: I just saw that the dude went with one of the builds posted, so I'm defending the disadvantaged for no real raisin.  In other news, I got my gigabyte g1 1070 plugged in last night, and I still can't get over how goddamn huge this thing is Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Jul 11, 2016 |
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Jul 11, 2016 18:06
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Fair enough. It's been a long time since I dealt with it I guess, I could totally be rose colored glassesing how bad it was
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Jul 11, 2016 20:23
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Kithyen posted:For those looking for an SSD, The Samsung 850 evo 500 gig that's constantly being recommended is on Jet.com. It's slightly more expensive but if it's one of your first three orders from the place you can knock off 15% with the code bringing it down to 138.23 free shipping. Thank you, this couldn't have come at a better time. A lightning strike got my machine (through the ethernet line I suspect, my beefy power strip is fine but the router is totally fried). I heard thunder, a terrible pop, and then I could type into text fields but nothing else. On reboot, I got this:  I can't get into the bios to confirm, not sure if the mobo or keyboard is broken but it isn't responding to menu commands. But from the startup scan, it looks like all three drives are shot. I literally just installed my 1070 and did a windows reset that morning, so I'm worried the card and other components might be damaged too. But at the very least, I will need that drive.
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Jul 13, 2016 16:53
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:Fair enough. The guy I'm helping is a lot less picky than me and has way fewer peripherals, so I should be able to just get away with the quick pick on this one. He vetoed overclocking, so here's what I have: Posted this at the beginning of the month and got some encouraging feedback, but the guy I'm helping has dragged his feet and is just now ready to pull the trigger, so I just wanted to double-check that I haven't overlooked anything new. He likes the Corsair 240, so we're probably going to go with that unless anyone has any major insights (speaking of, can anyone help me confirm that the GPU will for sure fit?) Shumagorath posted:dual-chamber cases have thankfully been recognized as a stupid idea. Why do you say this? I got on this whole kick because of people in this thread making strong statements to the contrary. In particular I remember someone saying that they found building mATX in "cube cases like the 240" to be much simpler than in traditional shapes, and other people have strongly recommended the Corsair and the Thermaltake since. Is this a controversial thing? Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Jul 19, 2016 |
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Jul 19, 2016 00:20
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 14:43 |
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Welp, the Corsair Air 240 does not have enough height clearance for a Windforce 1070... back to the drawing board. Can anyone recommend a small case that actually accepts full size components, and has decent enough airflow for a non-blower card?
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Jul 20, 2016 05:14
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