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Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


I killed my current computer(i5 4460) with a badly placed glass of water, and I'm looking to rebuild. Mostly used for gaming, but I don't need to max out every spec, I'm fine with "playable".

I've got my eye on the Ryzen series, but the motherboard situation has me a bit skeptical. Any standouts? Anything to avoid? I'm looking at the 1500X/1600 if that matters.

I'm also good with just about any quadcore in that price range if there's a better Intel option.

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Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Arivia posted:

I checked the QVL for the motherboard and that memory kit should hopefully be fine.

Only other thing you might want to add if you can is a small hard disk. 250GB doesn't go very far these days, now that games are north of 50GB.

Yeah, definitely. It's super easy to fill up 250GB with just the OS and a couple of modern games, especially if you want to record video. poo poo adds up quick. You can grab a 1TB HDD for a pretty decent price now, so I'd definitely toss one in there just for storage of music/documents/video/etc.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Here's yet another vote for 'Just get an HP or a Dell'.

Building a computer yourself just isn't practical cost-wise unless you're building a gaming rig or some other kind of serious enthusiast machine. You're never going to complete with Dell's economy of scale when it comes to consumer grade machines, which this is.

Also, getting a computer through them will get you their business warranty coverage, which is nice to have so that support issues don't have to go the "hey, you're good with computers..." route.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Ether Frenzy posted:

I'm also struggling with a Ryzen 3 build, mine turns on fully and everything spins and powers up and seems fine but nothing ever happens, no hardware list, no BIOS, nothing but black screens (tried both motherboard HDMI ports, and the one on the EVGA 1050 card I have in there) while everything seems to happily spin and the ethernet port blinks orange.

I'm installing it into a Silverstone mini-ITX case I already had and putting in a EVGA 1050 2GB video card I already have.

I have tried two different SSD drives (that both do something/are recognized in existing/working rigs);
I have tried two different power supplies, the one built into the case and a brand new one that's highly enough rated to run this;
I have tried two different monitors that both work otherwise;
I tried leaving the case fan connector off;
I tried leaving the case front USB 2.0 connector off;

nothing changes, it's always black screen & nothing while the system seems to be powered and running. The motherboard has no diagnostic LEDs, and the case has no speaker, so I'm having bigly problems debugging it.

The Ryzen series of chips don't have integrated graphics, so the mobo HDMI ports will not work. Do you have another graphics card you could try?

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


BIG HEADLINE posted:

It's definitely adding almost $100 to your total, but Amazon currently has a *really good price* on a 1700X: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3W9NGG

1700X doesn't come with Wraith Spire, so it'll also add the extra cost of an aftermarket cooler.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


8600K is 6c/6t, 8700K is 6c/12t.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Ryzen 3's also have the bonus that AMD is going to try and stick with the AM4 for the next few years, so there's a good upgrade path.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Do you actually need to have any kind of assistive technology installed, or is it just clicking "yes, I totally use assistive technology, honest"?

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


GuidoAnchovies posted:

Curious on if the following build would throw any red flags or waste money. Mostly looking to build a budget gaming desktop PC that will run on medium to high for modern games to replace an ancient ASUS laptop with integrated gfx.

i5 7600K ~$200
H110-MB mobo ~$50

I wouldn't buy a i5-7600k right now, not when Ryzen and Coffee Lake are both offering some very strong contenders in the ~$200 range. The 7600K is is a 4c/4t so it's not particularly well future-proofed at this point, and it uses a dead-end socket, so any processor upgrade would necessitate a motherboard change along with it.

On the other hand, you could get a Ryzen 5 1600 for ~$190 and an ASRock AB350 Pro4 for ~$75 bucks off of Newegg and end up with a stronger system for maybe fifteen more bucks. If you prefer Intel you could get an i5-8400 for ~$200, but the 1151(300 series) motherboards are going to run you about ~$125 at the low end.

Either option would be better than the 7600K, and you'd have a lot more room to upgrade in the future.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Vanilla Mint Ice posted:

Also I have no idea what cooler to use. Please advise.

The Ryzen 5 1600 comes with their Wraith Spire cooler, which is really good for a stock cooler. Unless you want to do heavy overclocking, you can just stick with the stock cooler and be A-OK.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Le0 posted:

AMD RYZEN 5 1600X (AM4, 3.60GHz, Unlocked)
ASUS STRIX Z270F GAMING (LGA 1151, Intel Z270, ATX)

Your mobo and CPU are incompatible. You can't socket a Ryzen into an LGA1151 motherboard.

Look for something in the B350 chipset.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


I don't feel like the 7500/7600 is really justifiable anymore with the Ryzen 1600 and the i5-8400 both sitting at that ~$200 range.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Palladium posted:

As I like to say in this thread: Refurbs, refurbs and refurbs for that sort of usage.

Yeah, this.

You're never going to beat a refurbished Dell/HP for cost when it comes to general purpose consumer grade machines. You can buy an entire refurb for less than the cost of a cpu/mobo combo.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Any suggestions on particular 1050Ti's to look for or to avoid? It's about time to replace my video card and the 1050Ti looks to be the sweet spot for me as far as budget and performance go.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


BIG HEADLINE posted:

Also, if this is your first modular PSU, make sure you don't lose the cables.

This, seriously.

Replacing the cables is so expensive that you might as well just write off the PSU entirely and buy a new one.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


I've got a 2GB GTX 960 right now. The HDMI slot recently went out on it, dropping me down to a single monitor, which means it's time for me to upgrade my video card because this single monitor life sucks.

Any good suggestions in the $200-$350 range? I mostly do stuff like Vermintide 2, WoW, Overwatch on occasion. Maybe Farcry 5 after I upgrade it, but I'm okay with lower graphics settings. Ryzen 5 1600, if that matters.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Mooktastical posted:

So we're starting to see non-Z boards come out for Intel, so what is the modern consensus for the best bang-for-the-buck non-gamer CPU/platform? Specifically, least expensive hardware for standard web browsing/word browsing faire? I know Coffee Lake I3's ditched hyperthreading for 2 extra physical cores, but is that something that'll translate to something tangible in terms of practical usage?

If all you want is a standard box for web browsing and general office software, you're never going to beat the cost-effectiveness of a refurbished Dell/HP. That or a cheap laptop.

The only reason to build your own is if you need a level of performance you can't get out of one of those.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Eric the Mauve posted:

I go into it every time knowing the whole experience is going to make me hate everyone and everything, but it just makes my soul hurt so much to watch a person buy a machine at Best Buy if I can prevent it :smith:

The way I see it, if they're not a gamer or some sort of serious poweruser, they probably don't need anything more than a Dell refurb. So 90% of the people who think of me as the "guy who does computers" just get advised to get a refurbished Dell or a cheap laptop. You can get a decent refurb for about 200-250 bucks, and if all you're going to do is basic office bullshit and web browsing you're never going to need more than that

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


zaepg posted:

I just did all those. Nothing powered on. Did the obvious checking if plugged in. No sign of anything.

Are you getting any signs that the PSU is working? My last 'this build shows no signs of life' problem was a bad PSU.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Crucial MX500 is still a generally well regarded SSD, right? I'm replacing the terrible off-brand 128G that I'm currently using as a boot drive.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Would a GTX970 be worth it in the $150 range if you're currently using a 960? I've had no luck finding a 1060-6G for less than $300, and half-price for a bit less performance seems awfully tempting.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


For a 2-4T external HDD, Western Digital is still preferred, right? I remember hearing something about Seagates being unreliable.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


In addition to buildapcsales, I'd also suggest checking out EVGA's Midweek Madness sales on their B-stock, which is their factory recertified stock with a 1-year warranty. You can get some great deals on that stuff if you're on the ball at 12:01 Wednesday morning. but those great deals sell out really fast.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


C-Euro posted:

My wife has an all-in-one Lenovo from several years ago (Ideacentre B520 I think) whose hard drive is probably kaput, but whose display is still pretty good (or at least good enough for her tastes). I'm leaning towards setting her up with an NUC for her next computer and I'm wondering if it's possible to use the old all-in-one as a monitor to lessen the monetary blow of having to buy a new computer. The AIO has an HDMI In port on the back which tells me that it's at least capable of receiving an HDMI signal, but I'm guessing that I would have to strip out the hard drive (and maybe some other hardware?) so that it doesn't try to boot up the whole computer when I turn it on for use as a display. Has anyone ITT ever done something like this before?

If she's otherwise happy with the computer, why replace it at all? Just swap out the busted HDD for a new SSD. You can get a 500GB MX500 for less than $100. Combine that with a clean Windows install and it'll feel like a brand new computer at a fraction of the cost.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


ItBreathes posted:

Potential Upgrades:
Ryzen 2600 - $60: two more cores and 8 more threads (though apparently there's a new SMT exploit if you're super worried about being hacked). It's a much 'better' processor, but at 1080p60 you're unlikely to see much of a difference.

RX 570 8gb or 580 8gb - $40-$80: its less likely that you'll have to fiddle with settings but on a strict value basis its hard to recommend. The 580 should perform at most 10% better than a 570 with the same RAM. If you buy today (11/3) all of them come with AC:Odyssey, Star Control: Origins, and Strange Brigade, but its the last day of the promotion. These should give you steam codes that you can resell for ~$60 making the card absurdly cheap, but I'm not sure if they've taken measures to stop this, and google isn't turning up anything.

It is worth noting here that the Ryzen 2600 does not have integrated graphics, which means that upgrading the CPU also necessitates the purchase of a separate graphics card. So it's not just a $60 upgrade, it's $60 plus the cost of a graphics card.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Oh, dur, I totally missed that. I saw the 2200G and assumed you were using the onboard graphics.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


I'm still using my old GTX960, and I'm looking at going to either a 1060 or a RX580 right now while the prices are reasonable. I'm leaning towards the 580 simply because FreeSync monitors are cheaper and my budget is limited. Would this be a mistake? I've heard some things about low-end FreeSync monitors being sketchy but don't have any personal experience with them.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Mordiceius posted:

Both my wife and my current computers have 1TB WD blue drives and I have a 256 SSD in mine. I do far more on the computer than her so she’s not in dire need of one yet. And neither of us have tapped out on our 1TB drives so we are just going to save a little on the builds by reusing our current drives.

You can get a 250G Crucial MX500 for ~$45 off of Amazon and it will be a bigger performance increase than anything else you're putting in the computer. If money is an issue you'd be better of skimping on just about anything else than on this.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Anybody have any suggestions for a decent wifi adapter? I'm in a situation where I may need to move my computer to a location where a wired connection isn't feasible, and I'm checking out my options. Router is a Netgear R6400, AC1750 802.11ac dual band. Open to both USB and PCI adapters.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Saros posted:

Beware of how huge the 580 is though you'll find it covers about half of your mobo's SATA connections rendering them unusable.

They're still usable on my mobo with my 580, but you have to pull the graphics card out to access them and route the cables carefully.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


There's no problem with resting a tower on its side if it would fit in a better spot, right? Mobo would be on bottom, no optical drive, no vents on the side of the case that would face down.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


ephori posted:

I need a PCI wifi card for a Windows desktop. What's the go-to these days?

Assuming you mean PCIe, I asked that same question in this thread a few months got back and got recommended this Gigabyte wifi/bluetooth card.

I use it both for wifi and for bluetooth headphones and it's worked very well for me, no problems at all.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


huhwhat posted:

The only explanation that makes sense to me is the one the shop manager gave me, which is that in some cases the first one or two boots take an extremely long time, like two minutes. He said that during those two minutes, the whole system would be unresponsive - no lights, nothing. When he first encountered this scenario, even he thought he hosed up and killed his system. Since he told me he's flashed a whole bunch of mobos to support 3rd gen Ryzen, I'm inclined to believe him.

This happened to me with my R5 1600. When nothing happened on boot I went upstairs to do some googling about the problem on my laptop, and when I came back downstairs 5 minutes later everything was working perfectly.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


My computer has started randomly shutting down, 3 times in about 15 minutes. Was not doing anything strenuous. The last time it did, the only thing running was the win 10 event viewer as I was looking up the last shutdown. Still boots fine, it just randomly shuts down. No locking up first, no bsod, no recent driver updates or anything like that. Power button on case stays lit, but it took a bit to automatically restart.

Ryzen 5 1600, sapphire rx 580, Asus rog strix b350f, evga G2 650W psu. Any ideas? I'm leaning towards a psu issue, but am unsure.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


What are the current go-to recommendations for a PSU? Is it still the Gold+ versions of the Corsair RMX and EVGA G3? I know I saw Seasonic recommendations for a while, too.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Stickman posted:

The Seasonic Focus Plus (not Focus), EVGA G1+/G2/G3, and Corsair RMX (2018) and RM (2019) are all great. There's a new EVGA G5, but neither johnny guru nor pcper have reviewed it yet. Tom's Hardware wasn't a fan of the 1000W model, but their complaint's won't necessarily hold with other models, so we'll have to wait and see.

Thanks much! I went with the Corsair RM(2019), largely because it's the only one of those that was still in the next-day-shipping window for Amazon.



Does anybody have any advice for monitors? I've got a R5 1600 and an RX580 right now, but I'm considering an upgrade in a few months. However, I'm still using some old office-quality monitors and it occurs to me that there's probably no reason to upgrade my computer unless I get a better monitor. Mostly interested in 1080p gaming, potentially in 1440p. Don't much care about Ultra settings. Looking for recommendations more towards the budget end of the spectrum, if possible.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


What are the current recs for budget SATA SSDs now? Not looking for any special performance, just want to throw one into my mother's laptop to replace her crappy HDD and maybe throw an extra drive into mine for game storage.

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Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Stickman posted:

M.2 or 2.5", and what size?

Adata su800/su750, Crucial mx500, and the Samsung Evo 860 are all good. There's not too much in the way of savings to be had by going cheaper, but often decent NVMe drives like the Sabrent Rocket, Silicon Power A80, Inland Premium, or HP ex920 will be about the same price.

The Intel 660p is also a decent NVMe choice for a non-system drive if it's cheaper than other options. Just be aware that it's QLC memory rather than TLC so it's a bit slower than other good budget NVMe drives, has lower (but still good) write endurance, and could slow down writing large files when the drive is >75% full. It should still be a bit faster than SATA drives, though!

E: Are you in the US?

In the US, and 2.5".

Just looking for something in the ~256 range for my mother, 1TB for myself. I don't really care about performance where the 256 is concerned, just reliability and lifespan. She doesn't use it for anything other than general internet and word processing, and I'm really just replacing the HDD because I'm tired of it taking 7 minutes to boot up. The 1TB for my computer is primarily for game storage, so I'm willing to spend a bit more on that one if it really provides notable performance increases.

Thanks much for the help.

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