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Fists Up posted:I'm looking at a new build in a Fractal Node 202 case. This only has 2 2.5" drive spots. I'm looking at a Samsung Evo 850 as the main drive and then either a cheaper 1 TB SSD or a regular 2.5" drive for the other one. Depending on how much storage you need, you may want to consider just going with a 1tb 850 evo instead of two SSDs. It's cheaper than getting two, plus you don't have to worry about juggling applications/games on different drives. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/RbvZxr,3kL7YJ,PBjWGX/ For cheap bulk drives, I'd go with Sandisk and their x400. OCZ is hard for me to recommend, but their Trion 150 is apparently not that bad. In regards to game load times, it will vary from game to game. You won't see any fps increases obviously, and with a lot of multiplayer games you'll still have to wait for everyone else to be ready, but for the most part it's an improvement great enough that I can't see myself using a rotational drive any more. Welcome to the future. e. There's an SSD thread here if you want more SSD ideas. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Sep 29, 2016 |
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Sep 29, 2016 06:31
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Lil Peeler posted:Thanks for the input. Why would I want to drop from 4 to 2 gb? It's cheaper! If you find that your game settings require >2gb of VRAM, chances are good that the rx460 won't be able to run it at a reasonable frame rate anyways. Ra-amun posted:So there's an 850 Pro SSD at Fry's going for $99.99 after a promo code. Is this a good deal? Go with the 850 Evo instead, unless you really need the Pro (if you don't know if you do, then you don't!). If I'm looking at the same listing you're seeing, the $100 Pro is only 128gb, and there are 250gb Evos for the same price, and there's very little performance difference between the two for home computer use. Even with an older motherboard, an SSD is a HUGE improvement in the quality of life for your computer.
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Oct 15, 2016 01:07
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cheesetriangles posted:http://pcpartpicker.com/list/PvrTm8 Looks good - just make sure, as others have said, to get the NEW Titan X instead of the older version. The one in your list is the older one, the newer one you have to buy from nvidia here. It's in stock right now, too.
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Oct 21, 2016 00:13
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Dohaeris posted:Hey while I'm at it, my H100i makes a weird clicky bubbly noise that's kinda annoying. I hear the reason may be because I have it on it's side, using a Corsair 250D case. Is there an easy fix for that or a better cheap replacement? Sounds like the updated one doesn't fit this case either. Make sure you don't have a fan-curve for the header the pump is getting its power from. The pump should be running at 100% always.
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Oct 22, 2016 20:36
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Joe_Strummer posted:Hello all, Besides missing a CPU cooler, the parts you have picked out will work together... ...but for 10+ years... 1. Where do you plan to keep this computer? That tower is huge. I got it for my first build, I regret it. A mid-tower will fit all your components no problem, it'll probably be cheaper, and will take up less floor/desk space. Maybe even think about going down to a mATX case & motherboard. Don't live with a mistake for 10 years. 2. What are your plans for SQL and R Studio - do you plan on using them a lot more or will it just amount to just testing stuff out and dropping them in a few weeks? You've picked out an expensive cpu/motherboard that eats up a large chunk of a 1k budget. It's fun to have powerful parts, but if all you're doing is using the computer to browse the web/play "1080p/60fps" games 99% of the time then why spend the extra money? A 6600k/6700k processor and a z170 motherboard may likely be right for you. 3. Recent overclockable CPUs do not come with a CPU cooler, you will have to buy an aftermarket cooler. The CPU you picked out is a hefty 140W to cool at stock speeds, and it's only going to get worse when you overclock it. 4. You'll probably want to do some overclocking to keep the machine punching after 10 years. Overclocking not only goes for the CPU, but also the RAM. Pick out some 3000/3200 speed RAM sticks. If going with the x99 motherboard, get 4 sticks instead of 2 to take advantage of the quad channel. 5. The GTX 970 is a generation old, look for a 1060 6gb - should be around the same price, but it's closer in performance to a 980 with more RAM. Your TV is probably has a 1080 resolution, and the 1060 is the goto card for that. Even if your TV is 4k, you can downscale to 1080 and it won't look all that bad. 10 years is a long time for a card to hold its ground, but assuming it doesn't break it should handle future games at mid to low graphics settings. 6. Solid State Drives (SSD) are a thing now. They're one of the best components you can get to improve your computing experience, whether you're booting your computer, loading a program, browsing the web, or just trying to browse to a folder. For a 10 year drive, the Samsung 850 Pro will probably do you good, as the warranty is for that long. It is an expensive drive though, and you'll want a large capacity (1 tb) to last you 10 years. You can always add in a 2nd drive in the future if you find that 1tb isn't large enough. A large cheap HDD to store your music/movies/backups and a fast SSD to have your OS and programs on is what a lot of people do. e. Please re-plan your computer usage so that it's more clear what you'd like to get out of this machine. 10 years is 1/8th of your life. Plan for your computer to last you 4 years, then decide what to do from there. You won't have to junk the whole thing if you want an upgrade, it's just a collection of parts slotted into each other. If you decide you want a beefier GPU down the line, or you want to add in another storage drive, no problem. That's part of the draw about building your own computer! https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/ Use this! Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 07:23
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Agrajag posted:But how do I bump these up without using the automated overclocking tool through the ASUS motherboard? The overclocking thread doesn't indicate what software I'm supposed to use. For your motherboard, this is done under the "A.I. Tweaker" tab in the bios. Read the manual to get a quick overview of the different options.
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Oct 27, 2016 15:52
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Joe_Strummer posted:Thanks for the reply! Also, apologies on how I structured my answer as I should have browsed beyond the OP to get a feel for how people are posting build lists. So big thanks on actually slogging through my shittily formatted post. Unless you're doing some custom water-cooling, or running a NAS with 8+ drives, or running a forensics machine with four external drive bays, having a large case doesn't make too much sense, as you'll probably just have 1-2 drives, a dvd/blueray drive (maybe), and one add-on card (graphics). If you're mostly just going to be playing games, browsing the web, and occasionally doing some development testing or w/e, going down to a 6600k cpu would make sense. You'd save quite a bit of money, and you can use that to get a larger SSD. The big difference between the i5 and i7, besides a higher clock multiplier, is hyper-threading, which allows one core to act as two (kind of). Unless you run applications that can take advantage of more than four cores (most games don't), it's usually not worth it. Also, you'll need an aftermarket cooler whether you go with the 6600k or 6700k. They're not that hard to install, don't worry. Having to juggle games and programs on multiple drives is not fun, and you'll lose out on the great load times if you have to put your large applications on a HDD because they just can't fit on your SSD. I added in the prices of the UK Newegg listings, not sure if shipping is as inexpensive as it is here over the pond. Make sure you check that out before buying, could be cheaper from other merchants when the cost of shipping is included. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£197.99) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.99 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£127.99) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£65.99) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£142.80 @ Novatech) Storage: Seagate NAS HDD 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£106.99) Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB AMP! Edition Video Card (£226.99) Case: Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case (£32.99) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£90.99) Total: £1022.72 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-31 06:42 GMT+0000 The 1060 6g is better than the 970, and it's cheaper too. The 850 Evo is cheaper than the 850 Pro. Warranty isn't as long though, 5 years instead of 10. You could drop the wattage of the PSU to something lower, 600 or 650. You'll probably get a shorter warranty, though. Up to you if you want to get 32gb or 16gb of RAM. I'd go with 16gb for now, and if you find that you're running out in the future then you can always get more. e. The two fans that come with the case light up blue. Depending on who you're looking to impress, this is either a good or bad thing. Lights on cases are OK if you like them, but if you use it in a dark room they can be distracting, especially bright blue. The side window is also a little silly, since a window on the side is so you can show off your parts or w/e, but they put in a bunch of holes for additional fans so it's harder to get a clear look. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 08:38 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 07:51
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timeandtide posted:Completely new to building PCs and haven't used Windows regularly since 2012, but if anyone would mind critiquing this build, I would appreciate it: You're pairing (an) overclockable CPU and RAM with a motherboard that doesn't support overclocking. You should either find a z170 board that meets your requirements (more money, overclocking) or go down to a 6500 processor and 2133 speed RAM (cheaper, no overclocking). If you're looking to cut costs the GTX 1060 6gb graphics card will handle 1080p/60fps gaming at High settings just fine, down from the 1070 you've picked out. "As high as possible" is dangerous, as Ultra settings are usually stupidly resource expensive (hairworks). That case is meant more for a computer with a bunch of hard drives. I'd suggest keep looking for a case that hits all your buttons.
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Nov 7, 2016 00:19
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Laphroaig posted:Hey all, Swapping the Samsung 850 Evo to a Sandisk x400 would shave some money off the build. The x400 is a good drive. Z170 motherboards are more expensive than H170 and H110. You only get a Z board if you're going to be overclocking (or it has features other boards don't), and you can't overclock the i3. H110 boards are the cheapest, they're cut-down in a few ways but nothing that would get in the way of what you're after. Most of them are mATX form factor as well, opens up more case choices. You could go down to just one stick of 8gb RAM, if needed you can always get a 2nd stick later on. You'll lose out on dual-channel goodness, but ~budget~. I'm not very up-to-date with budget graphics cards, someone else can probably give a good recommendation.
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Nov 8, 2016 00:09
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Don't forget you'll need a case to house all your components in!
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Nov 10, 2016 02:21
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Splal posted:Case: Fractal Design Node 804 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg) The case you've picked out is a big honkin' cube. It's much harder to find a spot for it to live - it'll take up more space on a desk than a traditional tower, and is also wide enough to trip over if on the ground (plus it's hard to look in the window if it's that far down!). Half of the case space is meant for a storage array with 8 HDDs, and unless you have a secret desire to have a RAID that you didn't tell us about, it'll just be wasted. If you really like the style of the case you're free to go for it, but I would recommend browsing around to see if any other cases catch your eye. An mATX board will fit in not only mATX cases but also mid-size ATX and full-size ATX cases. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Nov 21, 2016 |
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Nov 21, 2016 11:33
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Cubes are scary. Just look at mine. They do get good fan options, and a quiet computer is good especially if it'll be on all the time as a family device. I'm just of the mindset that if you're going down to an mATX case you should at least gain some desk space.
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Nov 21, 2016 13:12
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Is an internal cd/dvd drive a "need to have" (can't stop burning CDs!!!) or a "nice to have" (maybe I'll copy music to my computer once and a while)? There are inexpensive external USB CD/DVD drives that you may want to consider. If you liked the Node 804, I would suggest taking a look at the Nano S. Roomy enough for all your parts, additional fans (comes with two), and an aftermarket CPU cooler if you find the stock intel one too loud. It lacks a 5.25" drive bay for a cd/dvd drive, and it's an mITX case, so depending whether or not you decide to go that route... The Core 1100 isn't as slick as the Nano S, doesn't have as many places for fans (only comes with one), and I don't believe it can fit the fan favorite CM 212 Evo CPU cooler, but it does have 5.25" drive bays. mATX form factor. Cooler Master's n200 is also mATX, but wider and longer. More room for fans and taller CPU coolers. Tried to stick to the cheaper side, there are some really nice cases out there but you end up paying a lot for style. Plenty of cheap PC Gaming style cases too, but I figure you'd want something that isn't deeply embarrassing.
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Nov 21, 2016 16:50
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Yes - S/PDIF is digital, and the outputs on the AudioBox are analog. It sounds like you just need an analog to digital audio converter. AudioBox >--analog--> converter >--digital--> DAC You might want to ask in the Home Recording thread though. e. Maybe a virtual audio mixer like http://vb-audio.pagesperso-orange.fr/Voicemeeter/ would work for redirecting the output of Guitar Rig to your DAC? Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 10:53 on Feb 23, 2017 |
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Feb 23, 2017 10:44
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Ofecks posted:I'm going to be using this new computer for a long time (my current one is 8 years old) so I'd much prefer reliability over performance. Are Intel SSDs no longer the go-to solution for reliability? The SSD megathread OP hasn't been updated since 2014. Update your bookmark! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3788665 Samsung 850 Pro drives have a 10 year warranty opposed to the Intel 730's five, and they currently cost about the same. I've had no issues with my 850 Pro except that it's not a 960 Pro.
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Mar 13, 2017 07:02
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Modern SSDs are a lot more reliable than they used to be; I wouldn't worry about a 960 Evo dying before you think about upgrading again. If the warranty doesn't concern you all that much, go for it!
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Mar 13, 2017 08:29
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MysteriousStranger posted:SSD part picking help. Most U.2 drives fall into the "Enterprise" market, and prices kind of balloon there. The Intel 750 is basically an enterprise drive consumerized, and as far as I know the only one that's done so. What kind of workload are you planning on handling?
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Mar 13, 2017 20:58
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$35 of the asking price is for the Raspberry Pi 3. The rest of the price is for the cabinet, controllers, tv, paint, labor, decals, blah blah blah. The Raspberry Pi 3 does ok for game emulation, but it really depends on what games you plan on running as emulation is complicated. The Pi thread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3468084 can probably help you out, this page in particular https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3468084&pagenumber=107&perpage=40#post460033505 (a year old though). You could also search the internet for "raspberry pi 3 (game) mame emulation" to see if it'll work/run ok. The retro game thread can probably help you figure out if the cabinet is worth $400.
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May 18, 2017 13:24
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Altran posted:Great, thanks! I think I can free some budget by reuse my old storage and case. Is your old storage an SSD? If not, I strongly suggest getting the one recommended. It's a humongous quality of life improvement.
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May 18, 2017 19:44
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You can also re-use your current computer case to save some more money.
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May 20, 2017 20:32
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jonathan posted:Is there a thread for discussing modern home routers ? Here you go, friend. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442319
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May 25, 2017 18:25
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Wirth1000 posted:Running an ASUS Prime B350 Plus board right now and it uses a Realtek ALC887 chipset for audio. I'm about to uninstall and reinstall my audio drivers particularly the ASUS-branded Realtek HD Audio Manager as everything suddenly sounds... hollow? Muffled? In the Audio Manager, check out the Sound Effects tab and make sure Environment and Equalizer aren't set to anything. If you do go for an ASUS sound card, there are 3rd party drivers here http://maxedtech.com/asus-xonar-unified-drivers/
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Jun 25, 2017 02:52
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The older versions don't have the two slits that yours has, so you have the newer model compatible with AM4. The latch you're having issues with doesn't seem to be fully set in the heat sink. It's sitting up at an angle unlike the other side. Try re-fitting it and see if you can get it to lay flat.
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Jun 27, 2017 09:04
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Calef posted:In the USA. Using the machine for gaming, audio and video recording and editing, podcast recording. I'm of the mind that if you're going for a quiet build, you'd be better off with a large air cooler instead of an AIO liquid cooler. Maybe I've just had bad luck, but the AIO pumps seem to be noisier than the fans when dealing with idle/low loads. Does your workload require a cd/dvd drive?
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Feb 21, 2018 09:13
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Valicious posted:I’d like to game at higher resolutions What resolutions specifically? 2560x1440? 4k? Planning on running faster than 60fps? Is your monitor going to be a part of your budget, or will you be using your existing one?
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May 2, 2019 20:14
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When I did my RAM RMA with g.skill (after emailing tech support to make sure it would be approved) I sent my set over to them, then once they confirmed receipt they shipped a replacement set back. In my case both modules were bad, so I had to send both over anyways.
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Jun 6, 2019 18:23
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I'm on the hunt for the smallest mATX case - anyone have any recommendations? Being small is the main feature I'm looking for; I don't need drive mounts or radiator compatibility or fancy cable routing, I just need it to be compact. The components I'm putting into the case is a mATX board, Wrath Spire CPU cooler (54mm), an m.2 drive, and either an ATX or SFX PSU (ideally ATX but I can move parts around to get a SFX sized one). I've found this silly looking thing which, while the size is around what I'm looking for, the tempered glass, LED fan, and presence isn't really doing it for me. This'll be hanging out on a shelf with a Node 804 (black w/ covered up window) and a Ncase M1 (black), so I'd like to not have this case stand out too much. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Jul 7, 2019 |
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Jul 7, 2019 21:49
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Llamadeus posted:If price is no object... the Sliger Cerberus is a well known small form factor mATX case, basically NCase sized but a bit taller. That's pretty much perfect, but the $250+ price is difficult for me to eat. My brother dumped his beer-stained Corsair Air 540 case on me, so I can take my time to either find a sub $100 case that meets my criteria or twist my reasoning enough to justify that Cerberus.
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Jul 8, 2019 14:00
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lemonadesweetheart posted:I'm thinking of getting a PC again after a decade of not having one. I'm in Ireland but will likely source the items from the UK because it's usually cheaper. I'd want to game and code on it (casual). I was thinking of starting off with something small with a view to expanding it out over time. I'm not interested in overclocking in case that matters. Could I get opinions on this. The Zen 2 3xxx series doesn't need to be on the latest x570 board, so if you'd like to save a bit you could go with a x470/b450 board instead. You'll miss out on PCIe 4.0, but no graphics cards currently run at that rate and none are limited by PCIe 3.0. If you're not planning on getting any HDDs or cd/dvd drives, you could go for a case without mounting spots for them like the Fractal Design Meshify C.
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Jul 11, 2019 18:02
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Schadenboner posted:Motherboard question: It's stating that if you plug in an M.2 drive into that PCIe slot using an adapter, you'll be able to boot off of it. The PCIe slot does not share lanes with the M.2 slot above it.
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Aug 23, 2019 18:18
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Are there any downsides to buying from Newegg's eBay site instead of directly from Newegg, like warranty and RMA issues? The item price and shipping are exactly the same, but with the coupons and site-wide deals eBay sometimes provides it's cheaper to go this route.
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Aug 25, 2019 19:34
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Weird Sandwich posted:Putting it together wasn't too complicated, but I think I made it harder on myself by not connecting any of the power cables until the very end. Is it better to connect them along the way? I typically wait until everything is mounted and screwed in before I start attaching data & power cables. By doing so, there won't be any issues of cables being in the way while trying to attach components and mount the motherboard, and also allows for neater cable routing (unless you do something crazy like laying cables underneath the motherboard). Depends on the build though - if the CPU power connector is in the upper-left corner, you're using a compact case with little headroom, and there's a huge CPU heatsink in the way then it can be a good idea to get that plugged in first before mounting the board.
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Aug 27, 2019 19:18
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The reason why they're recommended is that they're cheap and good, not because they win awards. There are other SSDs that will be cheaper depending on the retailer and sales that use the same controller (phison e12) and are just as good, like the Inland Premium line. A lot of vendors use the stock firmware that phison uses so performance is nearly identical to each other.
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Aug 27, 2019 20:45
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side_burned posted:What are the difference between an NVME and SATA SSDs? Aside from NVME drive being about the same size of ram stick, I guessing there are more advantages to them than weight and airflow. I made this little chart showing the differences between SSDs. The bottom layer is the type of SSD.  Essentially the difference between a SATA SSD and an NVMe SSD is the communication protocol and what controllers it uses. SATA3 is limited to 6gbps, NVMe is limited to the speed of the PCIe lanes that it is connected to and is more suited to accessing flash memory (nand). Physical size is not a factor of being NVMe or SATA. e. It's not the end-all of SSD charts, but it covers most consumer setups. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Aug 28, 2019 22:40
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:You might want to make this a flowchart or something, I can't parse this at all. Are the columns supposed to signify something? A good idea. I could also probably reverse it or have another layer with some more info. The columns separate out the drives and their connections - green and red are both m.2 nvme drives, but red is directly connected to the CPU via PCIe lanes while green is connected to the chipset and uses the communal chipset link to reach the CPU. Schadenboner posted:The further to the left the faster (more-or-less)? It's unfortunately not as organized as it should be - the purpose is to just show different physical and logical differences between SSD types, not the speeds.
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Aug 28, 2019 23:36
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Reiterpallasch posted:Quick question: so I bought a 2x16gb kit of DDR4-3200 for my new computer, but one of the sticks arrived DOA. Will anything bad happen if I yank the two sticks of 8gb DDR4-2133 from my old computer and run them together as a second channel in my new motherboard? Besides being limited to the speed of the slower RAM, it should work. If the RAM arrived DOA, start an RMA. They'll probably want you to send both sticks back, but since you have spare ram to keep you going I would recommend doing it.
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Sep 17, 2019 14:51
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Indiana_Krom posted:https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-NST-536S3-BK-NexStar-External-Enclosure/dp/B01MRUN0HQ/ Can confirm that it is great. One thing to note however is that it isn't USB powered unlike purely external blu ray drives, so you'll need to be around a power outlet. Not an issue for desktop use, but can be an issue for laptops.
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Oct 10, 2019 00:32
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I've got the same PSU, can confirm that mine have the long tubes. I haven't had much trouble with using them in my build though, there's enough free cable at the ends to bend it so that the tubes don't get in the way. 
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Oct 18, 2019 00:45
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You may want to budget for an SSD or two as well. Unraid provides the option to use an SSD as a cache device, which will greatly increase write performance due to how your write speed will otherwise be limited to the speed of a single HDD + your parity drive(s). Getting two SSDs allows you to use them as a pseudo-RAID1 volume to reduce the risk of data loss before they can dump their cache onto the HDD array. The case you have selected doesn't have any internal drive mounts, so you'll either have to have them loose in the case, use up some PCIe slots, or take up some of your hot swap bays.
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Oct 23, 2019 01:26
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IndianaZoidberg posted:Because this is new to me, I'm just trying to rap my head about something. So I would use SAS HBA cards, use SAS to SATA cables to connect to the HDD or backplane? Right? That's correct. You would use something like these or these (depends on what connector your HBA uses) to connect your SAS HBA to the backplane of that specific case or directly to your SATA drives. The SAS standard includes the "Serial ATA Tunneling Protocol", allowing SATA drives to be used with SAS equipment - it's all transparent and you don't have to worry about it. (note that there are four SATA connectors per cable - this is because each port on a SAS HBA has four communication lanes. You can tell at a glance how many disks you can have directly connected to an HBA by multiplying the number of ports on the card by four) Also, if your card doesn't come pre-flashed, you'll likely have to flash the HBA to Initiator Target (IT) firmware so that the drives are presented to your OS (Unraid). A lot of cheap SAS controllers out there have Integrated Raid (IR) firmware and you won't be able to pass the disks to the OS, only the arrays that are configured on the controller. IndianaZoidberg posted:I don't need an SFP(+) card and cable, right? I can use a 10Gb ethernet card and CAT5e/CAT6 cable, right? Yes, you can use a 10Gb ethernet card. For copper 10Gb ethernet, CAT6 cable is fine for distances of less than 55m. CAT5e won't work. I have to ask though - why do you want a 10Gb connection? Does your use case support this need? Running a few plex streams on a gigabit connection isn't going to be a bottleneck, and unless you have multiple systems utilizing the full capabilities of your system, file transfers are likely not going to be limited either (unless a client also has a greater than gigabit connection). 10Gb networking can get expensive fast, and unless there's a reason why you really need it then I would suggest sticking to gigabit until there is one. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Oct 23, 2019 |
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Oct 23, 2019 16:19
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