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CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX_BK 68.5 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Case Fan: Fractal Design GP14-WT 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan (additional front intake) Been working a lot of forced overtime lately so I decided to treat myself to a complete new PC instead of just doing some upgrades. This is what I came up with. I wasn't too worried about saving a few bucks here or there by using different vendors so I ordered everything from Amazon using my Prime. This is my first time working with mITX but I have it all together now and overclocked the i5 to 4.2GHZ @ 1.2v and I am very happy with it. Anyway, just wanted to thank everyone in this thread for doing what you do and dishing out solid advice on parts. My crippling OCD would otherwise prevent me from making choices on my own. Maybe soon I'll have enough free time to actually play some games. owls or something fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jul 30, 2016 |
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Jul 30, 2016 22:44
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Avalanche posted:Hey goons. Built my first ever PC all by myself! (Well, maybe not first ever since I've pretty much replaced/installed every single component possible in other lovely dell boxes over the years but still). I have some concerns on cooling, airflow, and cable management with this build. Don't worry about temps using Prime95. Actually, don't use it at all. Use something like IntelBurnTest or Handbrake. The newest versions of Prime95 use fancy new instruction sets that basically force the last few generations of Intel CPU to rev up voltage too high. I might be wrong on the reason why, but that is basically the gist of it.
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Aug 1, 2016 10:54
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Bluemillion posted:I'm planning a mid-low range build around a Core i5 6600 and a GTX 1060. I have no intention of overclocking, and plan to use entirely stock cooling. I'm still uncertain what RAM and motherboard to go with. I know I want 16GBs of memory, but I'm not sure if I should worry about the higher RAM clockspeeds, or if that's more of a high end/overclocking thing. Once I'm certain about the RAM I can start looking for a motherboard. If you're not getting an overclocking CPU/motherboard then you can't use the faster RAM anyways. Just get whatever DDR4 2133mhz kit suits your budget best.
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Aug 22, 2016 22:14
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Bluemillion posted:Uh, wait, the 6600k is actually less than the 6600. That's wierd. I really didn't want to spend the extra cash on an aftermarket cooler. I've never really tried overclocking before, I didn't want to risk damaging expensive hardware to squeeze out a few extra FPS. I could stretch a bit more, but then I'd be tempted to stretch a bit more somewhere else in the build, and end up spending two grand before it's all over. I think I'll just go with 2133 RAM. Maybe I could go for a cheaper processor? You could drop down to an i3 to save some money, but the i5-6600 or i5-6500 is defiantly the sweet spot and worth buying. Your i5-6600/DDR4-2133/GTX1060 combo will serve you well for a few years. Sure, you could potentially stretch that out further by a year or so by getting overclocking stuff, but if you're not "in to it" then don't bother. It's an enthusiast thing, and you won't miss it unless you enjoy it. I don't get why some people have to always try to convince others to overclock.
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Aug 22, 2016 23:53
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track day bro! posted:Anyone got any recommendations for a mini itx tower, i've specced up a PC for my dad I have the Define Nano S. I like it, feels fairly "premium". As far as it being a good mITX case... it is kind of big and sort of defeats the purpose of using mITX.
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Aug 23, 2016 14:27
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goodness posted:Finally got an SSD after never having one, and got a new HDD as well since mine was 5yo. Why not just download Windows 10 from Microsoft's site and install off a USB stick? It should just automatically activate with your digital entitlement without you needing to do anything.
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Oct 20, 2016 04:43
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goodness posted:I don't have Windows 10 or Windows 7 through Microsofts online store so how would it know my activation? If all you are doing is changing hard drives it will just automatically reactivate itself in the background once it boots up after install. Your digital entitlement (key) is tied to your motherboard and CPU using a mysterious system that Microsoft is kind of hush about.
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Oct 20, 2016 23:48
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SnakesRevenge posted:So I'm wanting to build a budget gaming PC for my son for Christmas. He doesn't need anything super demanding, but he does like to record/edit videos, so I'd like to be sure he can play/record at 1080 with some shinies turned down if possible. The video editing is why I bumped it to 16GB, feel free to tell me if that's overkill. Seems like a lot of money to spend on a build that is based on a laptop CPU/APU repackaged for desktops. What kind of games is he going to be running?
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Nov 3, 2016 21:45
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LODGE NORTH posted:$250 ish, not that important. I'll second the Asus VG248QE recommendation. It is a good monitor that is below $250 and has 144hz. It's 1080p with a 1ms response time and has DisplayPort. I picked one up at best buy about 2 weeks ago for about $220.
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Nov 18, 2016 14:49
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LODGE NORTH posted:Someone please help me. This monitor looks amazing and is $30 cheaper than another monitor. MG248 is I think adaptive sync which is AMD/Intel only. The VG248QE doesn't have any of that, but when you have 144hz I really don't see much need for any kind of Gsync/free sync/Vsync. Just turn up the pretties to keep your FPS below 144 and leave VSync off. I personally have the VG248QE and love it for gaming.
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Nov 21, 2016 21:57
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LODGE NORTH posted:So the 248 would be worth it both because it has more features and is cheaper? Yeah. I would probably buy the MG248Q, it is basically just a refreshed/newer version of the VG248QE that has FreeSync. The lower pricing is just luck as it's MSRP is higher, but there seems to be good sales on it currently making it cheaper.
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Nov 22, 2016 05:25
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Hulk smash the RAM into the slots harder. Also maybe you can try resetting the bios via the jumper pins. Dummy option that I personally had an issue with: Is your monitor(s) set to the correct input. Also try only one monitor.
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Dec 7, 2016 16:39
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BirdOfPlay posted:The USB plug on my 360 controller got busted in travel recently and I'm not seeing wired, OEM controllers (new or used) in the game shops. What's the current recommendation for gamepads? My Target has Logitech F310's, and they're reasonably priced. Main thing I care about is that it's plug and play like a 360 controller and works natively with Unity/UnityEditor. Xbox One controller. Newest versions have Bluetooth for wireless on PC. You can also just flat out use it wired with any micro USB cord of your choice. Will just work with any game that supports a controller with zero fuss. owls or something fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Mar 15, 2017 |
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Mar 15, 2017 01:33
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Ryuga Death posted:If I got this system, I would reuse my MSI 1070. Is the 1070 still okay for 1440p gaming? My 1070 always keeps me decently above 60 FPS on my 1440p144 monitor. Usually in the 70-90 FPS range on newer demanding games like BF1 with all the pretties turned to max. If you really need to push that 144hz you'll maybe want to consider upgrading, but for me it's a non issue as I have G-SYNC.
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Mar 22, 2017 02:09
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Gaj posted:Hey guys, I just bought the luxury gamer set up here, i5k intel, 16 gigs ram, geforce 1080... Maybe go in to Disk Management and make sure the drive is formatted with a file system and not just unallocated space.
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Jun 23, 2017 22:34
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lord_daeloth posted:Ok, so I have to replace a GPU that crapped out and the budget recommendation is for a GTX 950, running about $150-ish (and apparently sold out most places too). While looking around at crap, I found this GTX 1050 on Amazon for $110. Even the FTW edition is cheaper than the 950. It's been a while since I've built a rig, so I just wanted to make sure this wasn't a terrible card, cuz saving $40 and getting a newer card (I think? gently caress these naming systems) seems too good to be true. Thoughts? The 1050 is the better/newer replacement for the 950. An even better choice is a 1050ti and should still keep you in the $130-$150 price range. The ti version has double the memory and maybe a tad more speed. owls or something fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Jul 16, 2017 |
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Jul 16, 2017 06:03
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BIG HEADLINE posted:It's a little out of most people's builds price range, but Micro Center currently has an insane price (~$80-100 less than the lowest recorded price) on the 1TB 960 EVO (currently web sales as well as B&M): http://www.microcenter.com/product/471493/960_EVO_Series_1TB_NVMe_M2_Internal_SSD If I didn't have to take my motherboard out to get to the M.2 slot on the back of the board I'd be all over that. Best price I've seen.
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Sep 30, 2017 11:06
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Was doing some price research for a coworker interested in having me set him up with a reasonable quick pick parts list. I am so happy I built my desktop last year and not this year. Crazy how much the prices on some stuff have shot up. Good luck, folks. MY OLD PRICE:  CURRENT PRICE: 
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Oct 30, 2017 22:23
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Barreft posted:I'm so loving tired of Creative's lovely drivers. I only have two speakers I'm not looking for top of the line audio, just audio. For some reason my Win 10 box doesn't recognize my X-Fi soundcard anymore, no matter how many times I uninstall the drivers, etc etc. Is there any dependable, not expensive card out there? My onboard sound doesn't work but it's a 9 year old PC so I'm not going to complain about that. Whats your budget? It doesn't sound like you want to spend much and I don't blame you on a 9 year old PC. I bought this $25 USB sound card to use with my Sennheiser gaming headset and it works so loving well. No drivers or bloatware software install needed. Leaps and bounds better and cleaner sounding than the onboard sound. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XBZ38ZJ
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Jan 26, 2018 07:26
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Barreft posted:My budget is anything, but I just want to hear audio through my 2 speakers. I used to have a 7.1 system but that's not possible right now. That link says it enhances the onboard sound. Right now Windows doesn't detect my onboard or my XFi, so I just want something janky for the time being. I don't want anything Creative cause their drivers have caused me nuts over at least 20 years now, whenever the Creative Live came out. I'm fuckin old. It is an external sound card in of itself, it doesn't use or need your onboard sound or X-fi at all. Disable/remove them and plug this in. 100% plug and play no software needed. Works loving great.
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Jan 26, 2018 07:46
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DNK posted:1080ti are just expensive. The cheapest they’ve ever been is like ~$775 with deals. MSRP on them is $699 and there was a time they were sold at that. I bought the EVGA SC model when it released for $720 before people really went full on nuts about fake coins that somehow have value.
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Jan 26, 2018 19:21
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Anyone have any thoughts on these Micron 1100 SSDs I see popping up on my Amazon. A $330 2TB SSD sounds nice and good to keep my Steam/origin/whatever libraries on. Are they junk?
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Mar 31, 2018 11:44
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Best bang for the buck is still probably the 1TB 7200 RPM Western Digital Blue drive at $45. Solid drive with a single platter gives it a bit of a (negligible) speed edge over larger more expensive 7200 RPM drives. https://www.amazon.com//dp/B0088PUEPK
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Apr 2, 2018 22:19
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I keep seeing this parroted about needing to use a SFX power supply with a GPU in a Nano S. I mean, yeah they're close together but even my 1080 Ti non-blower at 120% power limit doesn't go past like 70C under stress testing with my RMx 650 smashed next to it in my cramped Nano S. I do not think there is an issue at all using a standard sized PSU.
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Jun 11, 2018 04:06
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Time never stops tick-tocking. I guess later this year we're getting upgraded coffee lakes like an 8 core i9 part and yet another new chipset, Z390. I think any new gen is kind of on hold to 2019/2020ish because Intel had trouble going below 14nm. Edit: https://wccftech.com/intel-core-i9-coming-to-z390-mainstream-platform-core-i9-9900k-flagship/ owls or something fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jul 3, 2018 |
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Jul 3, 2018 00:01
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$177 for a 1TB SSD if anyone is interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4G19X3 Can't speak personally on that brand's quality, but for the price that should make a nice drive for keeping games or whatever on and has a 3 year warranty.
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Jul 6, 2018 06:09
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Hob_Gadling posted:I pulled the trigger and got myself a Ryzen 2700X with 32GB memory. It's running Virtualbox compile server lovely. Took two working days to rebuild my work environment but 2500k was just so old. At least it's fast and stable and up and running now. I can't even buy this as service because the environment is custom to me only. Enable XMP. That will set your speed/timings/voltage to the correct settings for your set.
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Jul 13, 2018 17:16
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XMP is an Intel thing so yeah enable DOCP which is the same thing basically for AMD I guess.
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Jul 13, 2018 19:34
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Look like RP-SMA to me, you can get adapters or antenna with that connection. The issue is they might be too close together to physically fit.
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Aug 5, 2018 11:33
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Parallelwoody posted:I just bought a 1080ti off eBay and now I'm not sure if my psu can handle it. I have a seasonic 550w in there at the moment but I'm using an oc'ed ryzen 1700 with 4 ssds and 1 mech hard drive, in addition to a rift and some other poo poo hooked up to the usbs. Should I look into a 750w for the overhead? You're likely pretty close to about 500w at full load maybe even more. You might be ok, but then all of a sudden one day you might not be. Probably wise to jump up to a bigger supply. 750w is good. 650w would also be fine.
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Aug 5, 2018 21:28
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Chaitai posted:So I have a little money burning a hole in my pocket and would like to know where I can get the biggest bang for my buck in upgrading my computer. I bought it pre-built from Microcenter. It is their Powerspec G314 that was popular a little while ago. Not much really worth replacing there. If you've got an itch to tinker, maybe a new beefy CPU cooler and rock an overclock (if you haven't already)?
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Aug 24, 2018 21:40
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I went with a Chromebook 6 or so years ago for my literally "never used a computer mom". Recently got her an upgraded new model. She loves them and hasn't managed to gently caress anything up probably clicking on every ad she sees for free games or scammy bullshit u gots a virus popups. Chromebook is good choice.
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Sep 15, 2018 16:14
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Gangringo posted:I went with that asrock phantom it board because it seemed to be the most future-proof as far as I/O. It has both thunderbolt and USB 3.1 gen 2, plus enough USB ports to hook up a VR system if you decide to do that. Also nice that it uses an Intel WiFi card. Usually Asus/MSI/Gigabyte use cheap a Broadcom cards and yeah they work but they're not great like Intel ones. I'll probably try that board too with a 9700K and throw my Asus Z170 ITX and 6600K up on SA-Mart eventually.
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Oct 8, 2018 21:43
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Install Windows 10 clean, when it asks for a cd-key use the Windows 7/8 code.
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Nov 5, 2018 22:49
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MZ posted:Is there an easy way to get fullscreen apps (games) to display on the secondary display (TV) other than setting it to primary? Winkey + P is how I used to switch between monitor and TV for gaming. Works best if you switch before launching the game usually.
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Dec 29, 2018 13:05
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Scope posted:
A 1070ti would be fine, probably even more than you'd need if you're only doing 1080p @ 60hz. A 1060 would be enough, and cheaper. There is no upgrade path for your current core componets. New CPU would need a new board and a new board would need new DDR4 RAM. A 1070ti would carry over well if you decide to go with a new CPU/MOBO/RAM down the road. It sounds like your current GPU's fan has failed or at least needs a cleaning. It's also probably thermal throttling at 95F.
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Jan 1, 2019 23:41
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Scope posted:Regarding what owls or something said, if the GPU is thermal throttling at 95C, would it stop throttling when temperatures dropped back down? It probably starts throttling back in the mid 80s. I think at 100C it will just shut down completely to protect from damage. Either way, it's running way too hot. You should be in the low 70s or high 60s under full load with the fan not even near 100%. Something is wrong. Overclock the CPU if it's not already since it's free. Throw in a better GPU and you'll probably be fine at 1080p 60hz for a bit until you're ready to upgrade the rest. An SSD is a great idea, even if it's over SATA. Maybe give it all good cleaning. You probably got 8+ years of crud in there. owls or something fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Jan 2, 2019 |
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Jan 2, 2019 06:26
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On Terra Firma posted:Made an earlier post and didn't get a response but since then I think I'm going to go in a different direction. Built a computer two years ago with a 6600k that's really showing signs of struggling and I have no idea why. I've read really good things about the Ryzen 2700x. 6600k shouldn't be struggling in games at all, even high refresh. Unless you're trying to game and do streaming/encoding in which case you shouldn't have went with a quad core in the first place. The 7700k upgrade probably won't help much in that use case either.
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Jan 20, 2019 08:39
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Arivia posted:
I have this monitor and I'll say this: The pixel density of 1440p on a 24" display is very crisp & the viewing angles are decently fine for a TN panel. The bad side is that the colors are very washed out and the gamma is like way too loving high and can't be adjusted on the monitor. But it's a $350 GSYNC high refresh rate 1440p monitor so thems the tradeoffs. I got to a place of being overall content with it by finding my preferred brightness and then dropping the gamma down 10 notches and bumping up the digital vibrance by 10 within the NV control panel.
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Jan 25, 2019 23:19
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DEAD GAY FORUM posted:Question: Are the following components a dead nuts, hands down objective upgrade when compared to my current components? It's a small CPU upgrade but you'd lose overclocking. Probably not worth it. Maybe consider just spending (less) money to stick more RAM in what you currently have?
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Feb 17, 2019 21:30
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