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The psu in my 9+ y.o. machine finally bit it, probably taking the MB with it. I'm thinking about this as a solid cheapish upgrade. I use my desktop as both a gaming machine and my work computer (statistics/number crunching and light scientific computing). I don't care much about overclocking - I've had an OC-capable machine for years and never bothered. I'm looking for any recommendations or things that could be better for the same cost or cheaper for the same performance. I live in Hawaii, so I'm trying to stick to Amazon for the prime shipping. Thanks goons! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.00 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - Z370M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($184.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate - FireCuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Two more 3.5" drives from my old machine Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 970 4GB G1 Gaming Video Card (My old card - keeping until prices are sane) Case: Cooler Master - N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($36.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon - already purchased to test old machine) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($94.98 @ Amazon) link Total: $840.92 Originally I was considering this ASRock z370 killer/ac / i5-8400 / Corsair Vengeance 2x8 bundle on Newegg for $497 together with a Cooler Master N400. I like the idea of shrinking down to a mATX, though, so long as I'm not sacrificing too many features. Unfortunately, my old 970 won't fit in an ITX case, but I could still go all the way when I pick up a new card! VVV oh nice! Thanks VVV Stickman fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Feb 21, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 01:49
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Shooting Blanks posted:I may be in need of a new PC in the near future - hoping I can recover mine tomorrow, we will see. If your old graphics card is relatively recent, you may be able to sell it for a chunk of change to put towards a new one. That's what pushed me over the edge to pick up a 1060 - I got a new itx 6gb off ebay for $325, but it looks like I should be able to sell my old 970 for $250-300. And if prices ever go back down, I can do a proper upgrade.
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Feb 24, 2018 07:46
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Super86 posted:Fellow goons, So long as you don't care about running games on both monitors or with ultra settings, a new graphics card should do you fine. Before the motherboard bit the dust, my old i7 970K/6GB RAM ran games like Destiny 2 and The Division just fine on high with a 4GB GTX 970. I personally wouldn't recommend anything lower than a 4GB 970 or 6gb 1060, but you might be able to find one of those on ebay or the like for ~€300. I doubt that one of those would last you another 5-7 years if you want to play the newest/fanciest games, but the 1070 and 1080 are so ridiculously priced right now (€850+ vs €350+ msrp) that you might find it worthwhile just waiting to see what happens with prices. For the CPU, there's not a whole lot you can do with an upgrade without replacing the MOBO and RAM, too. A 3770K would fit on your board, but would set you back €300+ for minimal improvement. A z370 MOBO with 2x8GB of DDR4 3200 looks like it would be about €300 and then another €150-€350 for something between an i5 8400 and an i7 8700K.
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Feb 24, 2018 22:33
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Super86 posted:Thanks. It's precisely running The Division what made me decide. I'm running it on Low and I don't even reach 30fps most of the time during combat. Here's an article directly comparing the 2600K to the 8700K with a GTX 1070 and GTX 1080: http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/76333-i7-2600k-vs-i7-8700k-upgrading-worthwhile-16.html It looks like the results were: - With a GTX 1070 at 1080p, the gaming performance boost of the 8700K was extremely minor for most games (0-10% fps). GTA 5 saw a 25% performance boost. - With a GTX 1080, the boost of the 8700K was slightly larger for most games, suggesting that the 2600K might start becoming a bottleneck for faster GPUs. Moving to a 1080 gave almost no performance boost for GTA 5 on the 2600K, but a hefty boost for the 8700K. - At 1440p, the differences between the 2600K and 8700K become even more negligible (since a greater % of the total work is being done on the GPU). So if you're only looking at current-gen gaming on a 1070 or less and not CPU-dependent productivity computing, there's currently little gain in upgrading. The 2600K falls a bit more behind when feeding the 1080, so this might change in the near future when faster cards are available (but so long as your computer is still chugging along, you could hold off upgrading until then!)
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Feb 26, 2018 00:36
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Super86 posted:Thanks for the advice! The buttcoin-alike bubble has people all over the world laying down fat cash to waste energy on imaginary unstable tulipyramidcoins instead of entertainment. My opinions may be slightly biased. Fabrication can't keep up with demand so distributors have either raised prices by 2x-3x, gone out of stock, or both. Here's ArsTechnica's take. From what I've heard, there actually wrong about graphics card being useful for mining bitcoin and etherium - (more) established cryptocurrency mining is moving towards specialized hardware. That doesn't stop the hordes from jumping on the newest SouthSeaCoin in search of the next big thing. Mike the TV posted:Awesome, that helps a lot, thanks! Either way, I'll get a new PSU, but if I was to upgrade, I would need a new motherboard, a new CPU, andnew RAM. So it's getting costly. If you decide to go that route, Newegg has some mobo/cpu/ram bundles that'll shave off $20+ dollars, i.e. 8400/asrock itx/16GB for $500 or 8700K/ASUS ATX/16GB for $640. They're pretty easy to find just by throwing "[cpu#] 16GB" into the Newegg search bar. Stickman fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Mar 1, 2018 |
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Mar 1, 2018 00:20
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bergeoisie posted:My wife is looking to get a new desktop. She does some light gaming (mainly WoW and SC2) and does some Adobe CS work (some photo editing and graphic design work). To follow up on Big Headline's recommendations, if you're willing to go with an ITX board, Newegg has this ASRock ITX with AC WIFI/ 8100 / 16GB of DDR4 3000 bundle for $437, about where your MB/CPU/RAM/WIFI is at. I recently picked up a similar bundle (the 8400 version) and slapped it in a Thermaltake Suppressor F1, and I'm totally in love to the point I don't think I go back to ATX machines. The OP has several ITX recommendations and some even squeeze in an 5.25" optical drive slot (like the Corsair 250D). Unless you're old 760 is enormous, everything should fit nicely. (E: If you go this route, definitely check the GPU clearance, though - the longer 3-fan cards usually won't fit) For storage, if you're willing to drop the SSD down to a 250GB ($95), or the $90 crucial mx300 270GB, you could drop in a $60 2TB standard hard drive for extended storage. They're definitely noisier and slower, but it's nice to have all that extra space without fiddling with external drive. Stickman fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Mar 1, 2018 |
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Mar 1, 2018 07:13
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cage-free egghead posted:Not sure if this is the right thread but I'm looking to spend less than $500 for a gaming machine. Don't really care about playing at max @ 1080p but would like to have it look not terrible. That's definitely going to be a pretty tight squeeze right now. What sort of games are you looking to play? For modern games like Battlefield 1, a 1030 is going to have middling performance (<60 fps) at 1080p, even with low settings. A 1050 ti will do well with medium settings, but a 1060/970/780 is really the best if you want to play modern games at 1080p on high settings with decent fps. Unfortunately, they're also all running $250-350 even if you're scouring ebay, which doesn't leave a lot for the rest of the machine. Newegg has this refurbished MSI for $569, which is the closest I've seen to a 1060/970 machine at your price point: MSI G11CD-B11 - Intel i5-6400 - NVIDIA GTX970 4GB - 8GB DDR4 2133 - 1TB HD - Win10 Home I'm not familiar with Newegg refurbished items, so maybe someone else could weigh in with experience. If you felt like you had another $50 to throw at it, getting a 120GB SSD for the OS should massively boost your boot times. Stickman fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Mar 2, 2018 |
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Mar 2, 2018 22:33
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beggar posted:I recently bought this prebuilt with a 3GB 1060 and it is giving me 60fps at 1080p running on High visual settings for Civ VI, Overwatch, Total Warhammer, and it sometimes dips into the 30s for Kingdom Come but typically only in city centers. Overall its exceeded my expectations Also, 3gb 1060s are going for about $280-300 on ebay. You could swap it out for one of the cheaper 6gb versions for $60-$70 if you felt like splurging.
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Mar 3, 2018 01:23
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Artelier posted:Forgot to mention those! The 6402P may have slightly better performance right now since the 1070 kicks out roughly 20-40% more fps on most games than the 1060, but that boost will be reduced somewhat because the 6402p may have trouble feeding the gpu at maximum efficiency. If you try to upgrade the graphics card in the future, that problem will just get worse. Additionally, for 99% of current games both rigs will hit 60fps on ultra or high settings at 1080p, so any performance gains for the 1070 are going to be mostly moot. The 8400, on the other hand, will come with a newer motherboard, support faster RAM, it's 6 cores will come in handy when future games better utilize more cores, and will easily feed a fancier graphics card if you upgrade in a few years. Stickman fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Mar 7, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2018 21:24
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Arivia posted:You only have 1 stick so it’s hard to test for RAM problems, but try putting it in other RAM slots too. Double check that it's pushed all the way in, too. When you've pushed it in enough, the clips should automatically close. E: Er, clip, singular, on this board. Stickman fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Mar 9, 2018 |
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Mar 9, 2018 21:51
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Neitherman posted:The CPU was definitely locked into the socket and the heatsink was definitely very tightly in place. If you bought everything together recently, you might be able to just take the whole bundle back. Check the store's return policy. Alternatively, you may be able to recover most of your costs on ebay, depending what you paid.
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Mar 9, 2018 23:35
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Whether you can get a good deal on a pre-built machine also depends somewhat on where you live. (Microcenter isn't a good option for Hawaii)
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Mar 11, 2018 00:25
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pliable posted:I read that Intel is planning on hardware fixes for Spectre/Meltdown for CPUs released later this year. Would it be worth to wait for those? I've been eyeing the 8700K, and I figure in the future I could get a water cooling system and overclock the CPU to try and regain some of the lost performance from the microcode patches or whatever. But I can also be patient and wait if there is going to be a true hardware fix, so Ultimately, it depends on how badly you need an upgrade now and what you primarily do with your machine. Since gaming performance is largely unaffected by the microcode fixes, I imagine that the Coffee Lake will probably hold their value pretty well, and so you could swap out processors when the Cannon Lake comes out.
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Mar 18, 2018 21:33
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Citizen Zee posted:I've reached a point where I'm hoping to kick the can down the road just a bit further on my current PC. I use it for gaming, but happily live with medium/high settings on newer stuff. I've done a number of "Can You Run It" style tests and the consensus seems to be that my processor is currently the bottleneck that's keeping me from having a playable experience in newer games (PUBG and Subnautica immediately come to mind) with effects that rely a bit more on processing power. It's also possible that I don't know poo poo about poo poo and I'm completely wrong. Here are my specs: If you decide you'd like to try a processor upgrade, I have an i7 950 from my old machine that I'm 90% sure still works (pretty sure it was the motherboard that finally went). Out of the box, I don't think it'll be much of an upgrade, but if you have a decent heatsink/fan you're motherboard should be capable of overclocking it a bit. PUBG at least sounds like it has some strange performance cutoffs, so it might help a bit! Just PM your info if you're interested! I'd be glad to give it a new home - I've been hesitant sell when I'm not 100% sure it still works (and they don't go for much on ebay). Farg posted:I use computers for gaming a lot but I will be trying to build my first computer. My budget caps out at 1500. I was looking at pcpartpicker and found this build Don't forget that you can pick up a cheap Windows 7 key from SA Mart (or elsewhere) and upgrade to Win10 for free! Stickman fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Mar 26, 2018 |
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Mar 26, 2018 06:00
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Eletriarnation posted:This wouldn't work with his P55 board. i7-9xx is the HEDT platform of its time and goes in socket 1366; everything from the 800s on down goes in socket 1156. Ah, thanks. It's obviously been a while 
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Mar 26, 2018 22:38
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exploded mummy posted:Quick question. I have a build that's about 4 years old. What games are you playing that are stressing your 760? For, say, Witcher 3, it looks like going from a 760 2gb to a 1050 ti should let you go from medium to high settings while maintaining 50-60 fps (hairworks off). For fixed settings, you'd like see something like a 10-20% increase in fps, depending on the game. Here's a couple of reviews with card comparisons for various games (the 760 would fall somewhere between the 950 and the 960): https://www.pcgamer.com/geforce-gtx-1050-review/ https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gigabyte/GTX_1050_Ti_G1_Gaming/25.html Someone else may chime in differently, but I'd say spending the extra $120 to get a 1060 6gb would be well worth it. Its a significant boost over the 1050 ti (something like 40-90%), and would let you play modern games at high/ultra settings at 1080p have have a longer useful lifespan than the 1050 ti. Since it sounds like there won't be any new 11x or 20x Nvidia cards this year it would tide you over for longer.
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Mar 28, 2018 23:47
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exploded mummy posted:Well right now, it's Far Cry 5, which I can comfortably play, but only at 1366x768 and everything at low settings. The game is still great looking, but I hate playing at less than 1080p and I can see the writing on the wall. Far Cry 5 looks like the 1050 ti pulls 60/52/47/42 fps for low/med/high/ultra, while a 1060 6gb averages around 70 fps on ultra. https://www.pcgamer.com/far-cry-5-settings-and-benchmarks/ Anecdotally, it's silky smooth at ultra on my 1060 6gb. That's with an 8400, so your mileage may vary, but it sounds like a 1050 ti -> 1060 is difference between low/medium and high/ultra if you care about getting close to 60 fps.
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Mar 29, 2018 02:25
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Triebeard posted:I'm thinking of getting a i7-8700k build. I'll stick with my GTX970 for now but this is what I'm thinking so far. Are you currently doing something that 32gb of RAM is important for? DD4 prices are insane right now, so unless you have a good reason to want more than 16gb, you're probably better off putting that $225 towards a nicer motherboard. I believe the ASUS Z370-A or -E (basically -A+wireless) is the general recommendation for good ATX boards, but I don't have experience with them.
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Apr 1, 2018 22:30
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Tsurupettan posted:My motherboard died and it's old as gently caress (I have a 2500k on it still) so I'm doing a forced upgrade. Just mobo, ram and processor. Also a new case because I hate my old one. You can save  +$3 by getting the mobo/cpu as a combo on Newegg. There's also a mobo/cpu/RAM combo, but the savings don't really make up for the more expensive Corsair RAM. When you set it up, be sure to set the RAM profile to "XMP" in the bios to unlock the 3200 MHz speed (otherwise it will max out at 2666 MHz). Is there a reason you want to go with an ATX case? There's plenty of good cheap itx cases, especially if you're not overclocking. It looks like the Corsair 230T does support itx motherboards, if you still want to go that route. If you're planning on using an old power supply (5+ years old), it's very much worth it to get a new one. The Focus Seasonic Gold Plus is a standard recommendation now, and they currently have pretty good rebates on Newegg.
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Apr 10, 2018 23:34
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LRADIKAL posted:Got curious in a another thread about the cheapest, not totally crappy gamer starter PC one could build. What do you think? What games are you interested in playing? For AAA 3d games from the last 4-5 years, the 2200G alone will be mostly playable at 720p with low/med settings and maybe at 1080p, depending on the game. If you end up wanting better performance for those types of games, you could always pop in a used 970 or 1060, at which point it looks like the 2200G is pretty comparable to i3-8100. Used 970s and 1060s are currently going for $150-200 on ebay, and 1060s should still be under warranty. I'd recommend spending the extra $20 (after rebate) for a Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 550W. That gets you a 10-year warranty and a better PSU, which is the absolute last part you want to fail. Don't forget that you can pick up a Win7 key for $25 from forums poster BrownThunder, and use the media creation tool to upgrade to Windows 10.
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Apr 11, 2018 21:41
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Dimo ArKacho posted:For all the people who have chimed in so far, when I said I copy/pasted the list into the thread, I meant the list he gave me. I've done nothing to make this more sane yet, mainly because I'm very out of the loop on what's decent and what's crap anymore. Another thing to consider - graphics card prices are coming down now, and while it hasn't affected new retail prices so much, used and auction prices are much better. If you're planning on gaming at 4K, a 1080 ti will serve much better than a 1080. New/used MSI 1080 ti's are going for ~$700-$800 on ebay now, and MSI uses the serial # and manufacture date for their 3-year warranty, so even used purchases should still have 1 1/2 to 3 years of warranty left. I think EVGA + a few other brands have similar policies, so you should be fine if you're willing to ask for a picture of the serial # on the card and aggressively return any cards with obviously misrepresented condition. E: It looks like it's MSI, EVGA, ASUS, and Gigabyte that will use manufacture date on the S/N for warranty. Stickman fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Apr 13, 2018 |
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Apr 13, 2018 12:58
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FunOne posted:Welp. The replacement Antec PSU arrived and ...no difference. If I remove the video card the soft-reboot thing stops, but nothing comes out through the onboard video. The 4670 is supposed to support onboard video though. My only other replacement video card has ports for monitors I no longer have. You might consider calling around repair shops - testing the mobo/ram/cpu/graphics card would probably run $50-100. Are you near a microcenter (or know someone who is)? You can currently get an 8700k + ASUS Prime for $410. There were some rumblings about ASUS motherboards a few pages back, but I'm not sure how serious they were, or whether they affect the Prime models. Also, you can save $20 for better performance by going with 2x8gb G.Skill 3200 instead of the Corsair. If your scientific computing is RAM heavy, there should be a noticeable performance improvement (maybe 5-10%).
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Apr 13, 2018 22:14
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artoke posted:It has been like 10 years since I built my computer and it's about time to build a new one. Just want to make sure I am not making any stupid mistakes with ordering the parts. Here is what I am thinking: What do you use your desktop for besides gaming? Newegg has an i5-8400/ ASRock mobo combo for $95, which is only ~$12 more than the 2400G/mobo you're looking at. You'd have better performance on productivity-type computing, but you'd need to pick up a discrete gpu. Nvidia 1060 3GBs going for about $150-200 used on ebay right now, which would put you a bit over budget but might be worth considering if you serious productivity/scientific computing and/or want better gaming performance. MSI, EVGA, and Gigabyte 1060s have transferable warranties based on manufacture date and should still have 1.5-3 years of warranty left. E: If anyone is looking for 1080 ti, I came across this while trolling for deals: Pixel Trading through storenvy.com - MSI 1080 ti AERO for $637 + free shipping Not so sure about the veracity of the seller, but they look like a legitimate business and they accept paypal so you should be covered if it turns out to be a scam. Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 15, 2018 23:20
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Lackmaster posted:I’m waffling between the 1050-TI and a 1060 3GB. It seems like I can get the 1050TI for low 200’s and the 1060 3GB for mid 200’s. It looks like you might be able to snag a used 1060 6gb for $250-280 off ebay if you're able to spend some time trolling for a deal. MSI, EVGA, and Gigabyte all have 3-year warranties based on manufacture date (the first part of the S/N, if the picture includes that). Definitely don't go with the 1050 ti if you're interested in playing AAA games over the next few years at anything over low settings - even some current games would have be dropped to medium or low settings to get half-way decent frame rates (Witcher 3, FFXV, etc). E: ASUS does not have transferable warranty. Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 17, 2018 21:16
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Farg posted:I'm about to pull the trigger on this new PC, can anyone see anything immediately wrong with this list, or any obvious optimization i can make while staying at the same price area? If you're willing to spend $600 for a 1080, you might be interested in this: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti AERO 11G OC for $637 shipped I haven't tried it and don't have any experience with storenvy.com or Pixel Trading, but they both appear to be legitimate companies and since they accept Paypal you should be able to get your money back if anything is amiss. May or may not be worth the hassle, though.
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Apr 18, 2018 00:02
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Arivia posted:Buying a blower style MSI 1080ti sounds like asking for trouble. I’m not quite sure where that is in relation to the infamous Duke but ehhhhhhh I found it window-shopping for blower-style cards for an itx case. It sounds like the 1080 version definitely had some thermal issues, but the 1080ti has a different cooler. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like any major outlets reviewed the ti aero, but the few posts I've found suggest that it's a little hotter than open-style cards, but tends to stay under ~76 or so, which is decently below the 83 degree throttle temp. Here's a Brazilian video review comparing the aero to an aorus and zotac mini https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbfxOC5eV74 It sounds like MSI may not have an issue with aftermarket-market cooling, but this is second-hand: http://www.overclock.net/forum/72-ati-cooling/1634049-amd-waterblocks-warranties.html#post26218868 Stickman fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Apr 18, 2018 |
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Apr 18, 2018 00:40
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Crash_N_Burn posted:I have a dilemma. I've been gaming on PS4 the last few years and my PC specs have fallen behind the minimum for modern games. I picked up PUBG on Steam but I find I'm only getting 17 FPS or so on minimum settings. My goal is to bump that up to 30+ as cheaply as possible, hopefully using my current motherboard. Here's my current setup: If you absolutely don't care about going over low settings or getting a stable 60 fps, it sounds like you could get away with a used gtx 950 ($50-100 trolling ebay). If you want something with a warranty, the gt 1030 looks like it cam hover around 30-40 fps at 1080p (better at 720p). You'll need to get one with a proper fan setup, not a "low-profile" version, so I'd recommend trolling ebay for a MSI, ASUS, EVGA, or Gigabyte model, since those manufacturers offer 3-year warranties from manufacture date. They're currently going for $80-120ish on ebay. Note that the 1030 is slightly less powerful than the 950. Those are both very painful to recommend, though - if you think you might be interested in playing any other games in the future you're better off spending a little extra to pick up a 1060 3gb. Used/new MSI, ASUS, EVGA, or Gigabyte versions are currently going for $150-$200. Even paired with your older CPU, a 1060 3gb should make pretty much every current game playable (most at high settings), and given your requirements should probably carry forward quite well. Used MSI, ASUS, EVGA, and Gigabyte models are currently going for $150-200ish. The 1050 ti is another option, but right now it's only maybe $10-15 in savings over the 1060 3gb for roughly 60% the performance. The 1060 6gb is better if you think you might care about high/max settings, but adds $75-100 over the 3gb version. Lackmaster posted:This was good advice. I snagged a "slightly used" PNY1060 6 GB for $270 flat on eBay. Thanks! Can't wait to finally see what my machine can really do. You're welcome! With the butt*coin drop there's something like a $100+ gap between "slightly used" and retail. I managed to pick up a MSI 1070 ti with 2.5 years of warranty left for $400, finally less than msrp! Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Apr 18, 2018 |
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Apr 18, 2018 19:58
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SalTheBard posted:Your case doesnt have a 5 and 1/2 inch drive bay for that dvd rom. Other than that it looks great! Shitpost Malone posted:Doh! I knew I was missing something. I’ll probably just end up getting an external dvd so the wife can make her monthly Smilebox or whatever it’s called picture montage for the family. Do you see any reason to bump the cpu up to the i7 8700k? It actually does - it's just difficult to see in the pictures. You can see it in the manual art, and there's a removable optical drive bracket behind the slot:  
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Apr 19, 2018 05:23
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Veritek83 posted:Yeah, the monitor upgrade is coming later on down the line- hopefully this summer. Are you doing 4K or 1440p?
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Apr 19, 2018 17:58
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Crash_N_Burn posted:I purchased a new videocard yesterday and I've run into a hiccup installing it. My current mobo is a Lenovo, which requires a 14 pin out from the PSU as well as a 4 pin out. My new card requires a 6 pin out, which my PSU does not have. What model is your Lenovo (and psu model)? It sounds like make of the Lenovo psu have a 6-pin connector, but it might be tucked away in a corner of the case: https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkStation-Workstations/Thinkstation-P500-PCI-E-Quadro-power-connection/m-p/1850512/highlight/true#M6996
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Apr 19, 2018 21:14
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Veritek83 posted:Wanna make sure I'm not doing anything particularly stupid with this build. You might also want to spend an extra $15 for a 2tb WD blue. Games are only getting bigger and 1.5tb will fill up pretty fast unless you have much much better cleaning habits than me.
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Apr 19, 2018 21:16
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UnfortunateSexFart posted:PC Parts picker says it's $3,168 Cdn new... that's insane and like 1.5 months pay for him. If you think you might want an equivalent gaming machine in Australia, you might want to consider stripping the RAM and graphics card and taking them in your luggage. That'll save you a lot on the Australia end, and your friend could slap a 1060 or used 1070 ti / 1080 and have a good machine for a savings. Unless you're actually using that 32GB of ram for productivity, you could even consider taking 2 sticks and leaving 2 sticks.
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Apr 19, 2018 22:07
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Crash_N_Burn posted:Lenovo model: 90BG003JUS The PSU sounds like it's 180W, so it wouldn't be able to handle a discrete graphics card that requires a 6-pin PCIE connector anyway. Definitely go with the new PSU and a 20->14 pin adapter (you can get these from Amazon as well as Ebay). Make sure that the adapter is labeled as compatible with your computer - apparently the pinout can differ between models. Don't try to use both PSUs at the same time - using two separate grounds and voltage control systems could damage the system or power supplies. BIG HEADLINE posted:Still, selling the 1080Ti and 16GB of the RAM isn't a terrible idea. It'd at least pay for a nice new surfboard or two. Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Apr 19, 2018 |
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Apr 19, 2018 22:22
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Crash_N_Burn posted:Thanks for everyones input so far, I am much obliged. Been reading this thread, researching the net, and calling around local computer stores. As I mentioned before, I do have an Ultra brand 550w PSU I can use, with the caveat that I'd need one of tbe following to use it with my Lenovo mobo: A compatible 20 pin to 14 pin converter, a molex to 14 pin converter (if they make it) or a sata to 14 pin converter. (again, if its even available) There's a thread here with someone upgrading the graphics card on the same model Lenova (H50-55). They went with this adapter from Amazon and reported that it worked for them. Absolutely *DO NOT* try the standard ATX adapter on the Lenovo board without an adapter - because the pin-out is switched around you'll very likely fry the board. In the adapter photo, you can see how the wires trace to very different locations rather than just having additional pins. I'm actually a bit pissed they didn't design their 14-pin adapter so it's not possible to plug a 20-pin adapter into it. It is okay to use the 20-pin PSU cable with the 24-pin adapter - there's only one way to plug it in and pin-outs are equivalent.
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Apr 20, 2018 01:01
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NikkolasKing posted:So I have a couple family members saying they'll pitch in about $160 for my computer. If you're looking at used cards, I'd consider getting a 1060 3gb over a 970. It's a newer and slightly faster card with better power management and potentially warranty (from some manufacturers) in exchange for 500Mb of VRAM. They're currently going for $150 - 200 on auction (just use "ending soonest" to find one's close to finishing), and if you can find a good deal on a MSI, EVGA, or Gigabyte card, they should still have 1.5-3 years of warranty left. The transferable warranty for those manufacturers and is 3 years from the date of manufacture, which is the first 4 digits in the S/N, if that's visible in photos. E: ASUS does not have transferable warranty! Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 21, 2018 01:54
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crime weed posted:So I built a computer, tried to boot it up. Cpu/case/video card fans run, motherboard glows, hard drives make noise, but: If you haven't tried it yet, cycle through the inputs on the monitor just to make sure it's not on the wrong input. Do you hear a POST beep when you start it up? You might also want to check your motherboard manual to see if there are any error leds that could help with trouble shooting.
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Apr 21, 2018 02:19
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Grand Prize Winner posted:I hope this hasn't been discussed in the last few pages, but I'm thinking about putting together an HTPC/console emulation machine for my living room. For $200-$300 an NVidia shield tv will do streaming up to 4k (media, plus pc games if you have a gaming pc with an nvidia card) and can run emulators up through Dreamcast, all without the hassle of putting it together yourself. The $200 version (Amazon) has 16GB of internal storage, but you can attach a usb hard or flash drive for more space. Apparently some users had issues with the Retroarch emulator and external drives, but it sounds like those were fixed with an update. The $300 shield tv pro (Amazon) has an internal 500gb SSHD, a microSD slot, and a slightly nicer remote. Here's a list of differences if you want to decide if the upgrade is worth $100. I haven't personally used a shield tv, so maybe someone with experience could chime in. Going by posted videos, emulation looks solid.
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Apr 24, 2018 03:11
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Lackmaster posted:How does PNY graphics card warranty compare to EVGA? I got a 1060 6 GB from both and I’m leaning towards the EVGA because I’ve heard better things anecdotally. E: (In the US) EVGA has a transferable warranty in the form of a three-year warranty from manufacture date (which is listed in the first four digits of the serial number). MSI and Gigabyte also offer 3-year warranties based on S/N. Buying new and registering gets you some extra perks, like a warranty based off purchase date (rather than manufacture), and in the case of EVGA, advanced RMA, purchasable extended warranties, and a 90-day step-up program where you can apply the purchase value of your card to trade in for a newer card. Other card manufacturers do not have transferable warranties, and PNY specifically has recently added the bonus goodie of voiding your warranty for mining/datacenter use. Of course, how would they know? Are they just going to fight RMAs with accusations of mining? Who knows, but it's probably best to steer clear. Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 24, 2018 20:04
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Skippy McPants posted:What country are you in? USA For gaming at 1080p, if you're not overclocking the 8600k it's something like a 0-10% performance boost over 8400 for an extra $85 (the 8400's stock cooler is sufficient). It's a pretty marginal boost, but it is a boost (and offers the option of overclocking), so you might decide it's worth it. You might want to consider an EVGA 1070 ti black instead of the Gigabyte. It's currently $510 from the EVGA website, short enough that you might not have to remove a hard drive bracket, and will get you access to the 90-day Step Up program (just in case 11x/20x happen to come soon). Consider getting the Seasonic Focus Gold Plus 550W. It's a newer design than the Corsair and is currently $55 after rebate. E: Apparently the BitFenix Prodigy has a pretty cramped PSU enclosure, so going with the Seasonic will also give you more clearance (it's 14cm vs. Corsair's 16cm). The Corsair will fit, but only just barely. E2: Speaking of space, the Prodigy has sufficient clearance for basically any CPU cooler. Don't feel like you need to go low profile. Don't buy Windows 10, buy a Windows 7 key and upgrade to 10 for free. BrownThunder is totally legit and currently selling keys for $25 over in SA-Mart (you could probably go even cheaper if you hunt around a bit). Stickman fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Apr 25, 2018 |
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Apr 25, 2018 01:44
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