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I had a build like this (but with a 4690k and a gtx 970) and only had cpu heat problems using the included cpu cooler. I replaced that with a Zalman and had no issues. The thing was super loud though. Oh and I turned the case fan right behind the cpu around.
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Jul 20, 2016 00:24
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DrNutt posted:Where do people live where you can still buy stuff like this in stores? I'm not going to lie, I'm a little jealous. Any city with a microcenter or fry's. I just moved to Salt Lake City from Boston and man do I miss microcenter. I'm impatient so it was really nice to go there and just buy stuff instead of waiting for packages to arrive. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Jul 25, 2016 |
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Jul 25, 2016 06:37
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Eletriarnation posted:Check a temperature monitoring utility like HWinfo64 or HWMonitor and see how hot it is. It's probably just not hot enough to care, although I would think those games would get it there. If it's at 90 or something high like that then the fans might be shot though. I usually use speedfan for this. Is that no longer recommended?
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Jul 26, 2016 03:10
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I've recently been getting the itch to upgrade my modest budget gaming PC and can't decide whether I should upgrade the CPU/Motherboard/RAM or upgrade the video card. Here's the system as it is today: CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor (OC'd to 4.3GHz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-970A-D3P ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (OC'd to 1866) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card Case: Thermaltake VL80001W2Z ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply Wireless Network Adapter: Netgear WNDA4100-100NAS USB 2.0 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter I'm guessing the thread will probably tell me to do the CPU/Motherboard/RAM (and probably power supply since I've got a cheapo) before the video card simply because there's not a lot of AMD activity in the thread at all. I eventually want to move up to a 1440p monitor and am thinking of the future. So here's my 2 proposed upgrade paths: CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory Or Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card Regardless of what I do I'm replacing the power supply and wifi dongle (I hate it hanging off the back and taking up a USB 3 port) with these Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter So the question is: should I go high end Intel and upgrade my graphics card later, or worry about the graphics card now and wait until later for the CPU? As it is, in 1080p I get 40-50 FPS in Metro: Last Light and 30-40FPS in Project CARS in the rain with a 40 car grid and 60fps+ in nice weather (both games settings maxed out aside from AA settings in PCars which can be confusing) What do you think? I'm looking at between $750-800 either way and can't make up my mind. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 15:57
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Overminty posted:Going the cpu/motherboard/ram route first would make more sense from a "replace the older gear first" point of view. You also stand to see something of a games performance increase moving to a cpu with stronger single core processing. Consider if you really need an i7. Unless you're doing multi-threaded work (ie not many games at all) an i5 6600k would be more than adequate. That does reduce my upgrade cost by $100. Does the i7 add any longevity that I won't get with the i5, or are the benefits of the i7 over the i5 not likely to impact games in the next couple of years?
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Jul 27, 2016 16:22
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Zero The Hero posted:i7 has virtually no advantage over i5 for gaming, definitely nothing worth the price. It really shines as a workstation or a home server, but even for those things, an i5-6600k is probably more than enough. If you don't know of a specific reason to get an i7, then you probably just don't have one. The biggest reasons are related to its virtualization, which helps if you run virtual machines or emulation layers. I believe it helps with things like video encoding too. Yeah I'm not doing anything of the sort. I'm just playing games. You've convinced me to go with the i5.
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Jul 27, 2016 16:52
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Overminty posted:Going the cpu/motherboard/ram route first would make more sense from a "replace the older gear first" point of view. You also stand to see something of a games performance increase moving to a cpu with stronger single core processing. Consider if you really need an i7. Unless you're doing multi-threaded work (ie not many games at all) an i5 6600k would be more than adequate. Since I have the parts in and everything set up now I figured I'd do a follow up. I went from an AMD FX 8350 4.GHz overclocked to 4.3Ghz on a gigabyte board to an Intel core i5 6600k at 3.5 ghz on an Asus z170-a. I ran some in-game benchmark modes and a couple dedicated benchmarking tools because I like data. Games: Dirt Rally F1 2016 Project CARS GTA V Metro Last Light Benchmark tools: Passmark PerformanceTest Heaven I noticed very minor increases in FPS in most of the games. Average went up a little, minimums went up a little, maximums did go up by a larger margin though. There was one game where maximums rose but minimums and average actually went down though and that's GTA V. It must have been taking advantage of the 4 extra cores. There was one other (Project CARS) where the minimum and average rose, but the max actually fell So I have a really stable overclock to 4.7ghz and the increases over stock were very minimal as well, except GTA V which went up quite a bit, but still not to the level of with the AMD. I have a feeling most of the games are simply not that CPU dependent and the GTX 970 is the limiting factor. I have a feeling a 1070 or 1080 is in my future as well. Obviously the dedicated benchmarking tools had more dramatic results because they aren't real world tests. FPS Average/minimum/maximum AMD: Dirt rally - 56/46/71 F1 2015 clear weather - 96/75/112 F1 2015 bad weather - 61/42/74 Project CARS clear weather - nd/43/69 Project CARS bad weather - nd/26/56 GTA V pass 0 - 47/30/56 GTA V pass 1 - 44/28/60 GTA V pass 2 - 55/38/83 GTA V pass 3 - 66/43/85 GTA V pass 4 - 50/23/111 Metro last light - 46/18/76 Intel stock: Dirt rally - 58/48/76 (barely an increase) F1 2015 clear weather - 106/80/125 (about 10 more fps than the AMD) F1 2015 bad weather -73/48/85 (again a kit 10 more fps than the AMD) Project CARS clear weather - nd/49/70 (slightly higher minimum, the same max as AMD pretty much) Project CARS bad weather - nd/34/43 (higher minimum but 15 FPS lower max) GTA V pass 0 - 37/26/69 (lower average and minimum with a higher max) GTA V pass 1 - 31/21/65(lower average and minimum with a higher max) GTA V pass 2 - 40/30/108 (lower average and minimum with a higher max) GTA V pass 3 - 43/31/132 (lower average and minimum with a higher max) GTA V pass 4 - 41/13/90 (lower across the board) Metro last light - 50/22/80 (pretty much the same) Intel overclocked to 4.7ghz: Dirt rally - 58/48/76 (exactly the same as stock) F1 2015 clear weather - 106/80/125 F1 2015 bad weather -93/62/115 (dramatic improvement over stock) Project CARS clear weather - nd/60/73 (way better minimum than stock) Project CARS bad weather - nd/33/47 (pretty much the same as stock) GTA V pass 0 - 39/26/131 (much higher max but otherwise same as stock) GTA V pass 1 - 32/27/74 (pretty much the same with marginally higher max) GTA V pass 2 - 42/30/143 (pretty much the same with marginally higher max) GTA V pass 3 - 43/6/145 (same average, much lower minimum, slightly higher max) GTA V pass 4 - 41/18/212 (higher minimum and insanely high max but same average) Metro last light - 50/22/80 (pretty much the same with marginally higher max) Again these are with the games maxed at 1080p with max AA. I can certainly dial down the AA and make GTA playable without even noticing, so I'm not complaining. I'm just surprised to see an area where the 2 year old AMD CPU was able to show an advantage over intel's latest generation and I have to assume it's because of the difference in the number of cores.
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Jul 29, 2016 23:39
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HalloKitty posted:Interesting data, and although it hasn't made a huge difference over your old CPU, as you said, it's probably the 970 bottlenecking now, so you're ready for a GPU upgrade. Very, very interesting with regards to GTA V. Nope, I did something much more dumb. I didn't double check that I was actually using the same settings. I looked this morning and discovered there was one settings difference. on the 8350 "MSAA: 0" and on the 6600k "MSAA: 8" Welp, that would do it. With matching settings I'm seeing an increase of 100-200% in the average framerates on the overclocked system. So it's actually become the game with the most radically improved frame rate in my tests. I probably did something similar with Project CARS as well because that game doesn't have a real becnhmark mode so it doesn;t log anything so I can't be sure my settings are exactly the same. Thanks for pointing it out that it looked funny. All the other games had their settings stay persistent between installations because their config files live in my onedrive so I can be assured that they had the same settings. The only two games where settings were not persisted across the two systems were the two games that saw a decrease in performance so i'm willing to bet it was not actually maxed in the AA department on the old system.
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Jul 30, 2016 15:32
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Abu Dave posted:Hey guys sorry to bug you all; By control do you just mean pause, play, rewind stuff, and selecting videos from a library? If so, a raspberry pi is like $60 with a case, hdmi cable and power supply and play high def video just fine. Hook an external drive to it or if you already have a nas or shared drive hooked to your router that's all you'd need. Install kodi on there and go nuts. I have one hooked to my tv running a distribution called retropie which has tons of old console emulators and the kodi media center software for watching videos.
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Jul 30, 2016 17:12
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blah_blah posted:
Sure it does. I just did it to reinstall Windows after getting my new poo poo. The boot camp tutorials make a perfectly usable bootable usb drive that can install Windows 10 on any computer, not just macs.
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Jul 30, 2016 19:36
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Isn't the offer still available through today?
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Jul 30, 2016 20:13
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everythingWasBees posted:What offer is this? Microsoft's free upgrade to windows 10 from windows 7 and 8.
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Jul 30, 2016 21:45
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I'm so annoyed with Microsoft right now. I replaced my motherboard, CPU, and RAM last Thursday and reinstalled windows 10 from scratch. Over the weekend it started nagging me to activate (I did put my old windows 8 product key in when I installed) and when I enter my product key it says it's being used on another PC. I guess all the hardware changes gave me a new hardware ID. So I follow the activation instructions by calling microsoft. The phone activation system gives me the opportunity to enter the number in on my phone in a web browser instead of having to use the touch-tone system. I take advantage and of course it doesn't work. At the end of the process it offers to call me back, and does. It says it's connecting me to support, then after a few seconds: "We're sorry, your call can not be completed at this time." Ugh. So I hop online and go to microsoft chat based support. It says there are 300 people ahead of me in line. This was at about 10:30 mountain time on Friday night. At 11:50 i was finally 1st in line. My browser sat on that window until 12:27 telling me I was #1 in line. I was tired so I went to bed. When I woke up it was still sitting there at #1 in line. So I tried the automated phone system again. When it tried to call me back I had the same result. So I called again and used the touch tone system instead and when it failed it actually connected me to a tech support guy. Unfortunately they didn't understand the problem so said they had to escalate and someone would call me back between 10 and noon on sunday. Guess who never called? So I tried the touch tone system again last evening. The tech support guy this time said he'd connect me to the "answer desk." After it transferred: "Sorry, we are now closed. Please call back during business hours." So I called back this morning and actually got to the answer desk. Halfway through the call the fire alarm in my apartment building went off. I'd rather die in a fire than leave this unresolved. I'm still on hold.
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Aug 1, 2016 15:41
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Bass Bottles posted:I'm trying to install my CPU into an ASUS B150i Motherboard, but it has this extra piece of plastic that is giving me trouble. The CPU inserter tool is a bit flexible. When I used mine I flexed the frame of the tool around the CPU. Make sure the little arrow on the CPU is in the same corner as the arrow on the tool.
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Aug 1, 2016 16:41
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SectumSempra posted:Hey guys is this a solid build? The storage seems a bit low, I'd get a 2 or 3TB HDD. Also you're going to want the more demanding games on the SSD to fight loading times as well so if you could swing the 500GB SSD instead of the one you picked you'd probably be happier in the long run and that will be less of a pain to deal with than upgrading to a bigger SSD later.
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Aug 3, 2016 07:08
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Unless you're using integrated graphics you're not going to notice one iota of difference with overclocked RAM. http://techgage.com/news/as-it-happens-memory-speed-still-doesnt-matter-much/ http://techbuyersguru.com/does-ram-speed-matter-ddr3-1600-vs-1866-2133-and-2400-games http://techbuyersguru.com/gaming-ddr4-memory-2133-vs-26663200mhz-8gb-vs-16gb?page=1 That said, the price difference between an overclocking board and a non overclocking board is not that big and it leaves you open to swap your CPU for an overclockable one in the future. Also the latest games are getting pretty huge. The witcher 3 for example is around 100 GB with all the DLC I think. I would suggest an additional 2-3TB spinning platter hard drive to put the less demanding games on to save space for the ones that have insane load times on the ssd. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Aug 13, 2016 |
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Aug 13, 2016 14:40
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Really just get the cheapest DDR4 that doesn't have tons of reviews about failing sticks. 7200RPM drives are decently priced. As for games on the ssd, stick the more demanding ones on it along with your windows install. I have doom on mine because the load times are crazy long on a HDD. I have a 500GB Samsung SSD and a 2 TB seagate HDD and I have GTA V, the witcher 3, and Doom on the ssd, everything else on the HDD. The load times in all 3 are just too annoying to have on the HDD. Also those 3 games on your 250gb drive along with Windows wouldn't leave much space left for anything so an HDD would be essential.
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Aug 13, 2016 14:59
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I transferred my build to a new case and noticed during that time the heat spreader on one of my sticks of ram was loose. I pulled it out and pressed it back on but today paranoia got the best of me (worried about the drat thing falling off in the case and causing a short) so I checked and it was loose and the other stick's heat spreader was loose too so I just went ahead and pulled them off completely. I didn't have to use a tool like a ruler or anything like they do on YouTube. It's like they were barely stuck on. RAM doesn't really need a heat spreader anyway, right? I've got good airflow in the new case so I can quit worrying, right? (It's g skill ripjaws v ddr4 3000 and I'm running the xmp profile on it) GutBomb fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Aug 15, 2016 |
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Aug 15, 2016 01:23
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Yeah I was able to get a stable overclock of the 6600k all the way up to 4.7ghz with just air cooking (hyper 212 evo). It took a couple hours of tweaking and then running a stress test overnight. The tweaking and stress tests are to get the voltage right which gets rid of the weird crashes. I have been running the overclock for a while with rock solid stability. You can really get a lot out of these chips.
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Aug 15, 2016 17:08
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Phlegmish posted:What voltage did you settle on? 1.330v and my temps under full load are 60c so I've probably got more I could get to.
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Aug 15, 2016 19:03
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LogicalFallacy posted:Hmm. I might be able to manage that, though I'm unsure about the temp. I've got mine at 4.6GHz at 1.3V right now. It actually mostly sits at at 1.23v, with the occasional spike up to 1.27 according to AIDA64. Interestingly, my load temps haven't changed when I pushed it up to where it is from the non-overvolted 4.4GHz I had before. Still a nice cozy 60C. We should probably take this over to the overclocking thread but I've found that aida64 doesn't stress enough for a reliable test on its own. 10 runs of Intel burn test with memory on maximum is enough. It takes about an hour. If you're stable there (either no failures or blue screens) the do an overnight run of AIDA64 with gpu stress on too (to create higher temperatures) and if you're still good (no blue screens) then you're stable.
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Aug 15, 2016 19:39
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pocket pool posted:Real nice chip - I needed 1.38 to hit 4.5 and 1.42 to hit 4.6. I ended up sticking with the 4.5 overclock because temperatures got kind of high otherwise. I just tried to get up to 4.8 and I think I hit a wall. 48 multiplier and 1.360 was resulting in blue screens in Intel burn test and 83-84c. I turned it up to 1.370v and got temps of 85c which is where I draw the line. 4.7 is fine enough and it's not like I'd notice a single difference between 4.7 and 4.8 anyway.
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Aug 15, 2016 23:55
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When I started overclocking my PC a couple weeks ago I took a whole bunch of benchmarks (in games benchmark modes and in synthetic benchmarking tools) so I have a spreadsheet with my results. Last night I decided to turn off my xmp profile but leave my video card OC turned on and my CPU OC turned on. The results were exactly the same performance as far as frame rate in every game I tried except F1 2015 which had 5 better FPS, and project cars which had about 8 FPS improvement with the memory at 3000 instead of 2133. But really when the difference is $10 why not? Metro last light, dirt rally, and heaven benchmark were all the same no matter where the memory was clocked. (All of this is at 1440p. Improvements might be better at 1080p)
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Aug 17, 2016 22:03
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Phlegmish posted:Thanks for the information. What's your CPU/GPU set-up? I have a 6600k overclocked to 4.7ghz and a 1070 overclocked to around 2050mhz (it was a pretty modest overclock. Anymore was causing the drivers to crash and causing artifacts) The CPU/memory overclock came first and gave me a 5-20 FPS bump depending on the game and then the GPU overclock gave me pretty much 5 FPS more on top of that across the board. I'm talking average FPS here. Minimums went up by about the same amount too, maximums went up by larger margins but I only have a 60hz monitor so it's not really a big deal. Overclocking the CPU and GPU was the difference the machine needed to be able to play games at 1440p at ultra settings with aggressive AA and keep the frame rate right around 60+
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Aug 18, 2016 00:09
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You can do better power supply wise. You should get something gold or higher and check the length of the warranty. Also faster ram is only $10 more and your board supports it.
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Aug 18, 2016 03:05
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Burt Gherkin posted:Ok so I've been playing around with a build. It's focused around getting this kick rear end Acer monitor that this thread made me want. I'd like a juicy rig that can handle 1440p 144hz gaming. This computer will be pretty much solely a gaming machine for steam etc. I'd like to keep the cost of the computer itself to be around 2000 Australian dollarydoos. If it goes over a little that's no big deal. I'll be buying the video card on Amazon which should save me around 150AUD. I like the idea of having a sound card because I plan on getting some decent cans. I'm currently using Sennheiser pc360s which I am quite happy with. Here's the build I thought up. I have no real knowledge on this stuff so anything suggested changes to the build are welcome. Tried to go for a red/black theme just for fun. Here's what I came up with http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/rxkZZ8 That build is pretty much exactly what I have as far as internals aside from the sound card. If you're expecting near 144fps average you're going to have to turn AA off or at least way down in most games. Even with the increased pixel density of 1440p AA still has a job to do and that's to prevent flickering lines such as on the edges of walls, fences, shadows, power lines, etc. anything that has a very defined straight line in many game engines will have jaggies which manifest as a flickering line when moving. With AA turned up to acceptable levels for me I'm averaging right around 60FPS in most games. If I were you I'd move up to a gtx 1080 to get you closer to that 144hz because as it is in its current state it's just going to float around 60 FPS or a little higher the way you have it now. (This is all assuming your goal is ultra/maxed settings at 1440p) GutBomb fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Aug 18, 2016 |
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Aug 18, 2016 13:36
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Burt Gherkin posted:That's honestly so disappointing to hear that this rig won't smash 1440p 144hz gaming. It almost makes me wonder if I just wait a year to do a build and see what happens. My problem is that my current video card a (a gtx 580) is having driver kernel errors and I'm guessing it will poo poo the bed at any moment. Don't get me wrong, like I said that's with all settings maxed out including AA. You can get away with less AA and get better framerates but I like to max it out because of the flickering. I play racing games mostly and the shadows on the track and fencing on the side of it really catch my eye if they are flickering. GTA V for example is about 60 most of the time for me, Doom is over 100, Project CARS is around 80, Dirt Rally is around 60. I just don't have anything that runs at or near 144 for average framerate, but everything looks amazing anyway and anything above 50FPS in my book is just great. I'm super happy with my build. You're going to love yours too, so don't worry about it.
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Aug 19, 2016 06:21
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If you look at task manager processes tab you'll probably find iehighutil with an internet explorer icon. That's a Bitcoin mining Trojan horse. Kill it, delete it, and your games will run better and your computer will be much quieter. If it's not iehighutil run malwarebytes to find out what it is.
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Aug 21, 2016 15:40
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I think the temp limit is the temperature in which the card will reduce its clock speed in an attempt to reduce temperature.
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Aug 22, 2016 20:24
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If you're not playing games with it (and that video card says probably not) you can just use the integrated video from your CPU (the motherboard handles the video out) and not spend the money on the video card. The sound card is also completely unnecessary. The onboard sound will be fine and I'm assuming you'll be using hdmi to put this on the tv and the sound will go to the tv through that. I doubt that sound card and video card will even fit in that case without some kind of daughtercard. Luckily you don't need them. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Aug 23, 2016 |
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Aug 23, 2016 00:34
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kalstrams posted:Sound card is there to get audio out through TOSLINK cable, so any alternative for that would do. I'll toss the GPU out, was not sure if integrated GPU on that i3 would handle video well. Picked you out a different motherboard and ditched the sound and video cards. $525 total. http://pcpartpicker.com/list/7f3K3F The CPU will be just fine with any 1080p video you throw at it.
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Aug 23, 2016 00:51
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effectual posted:So I waited a while for those new video cards to come out, what should I change in this? I'd change the video card to a $250 1060 and the ssd to a Samsung 850 evo for $170. It will be a little bit better and cost a little bit less.
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Aug 23, 2016 02:33
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I have never built using water cooling. My current fan situation is 2 120mm intake fans on the front, and 2 120mm exhaust fans, one on top and one on the back, and. 120mm fan on the 212 evo CPU cooler. If I were to go water cooled is still need the exhaust fans right? And the fans on the front would be replaced by a radiator that has 2 similarly sized fans, right? The case fans are much louder than my CPU fan anyway so would that really be much quieter? Cooling isn't a limiting factor in my overclock anyway, I'm unable to keep the voltage low enough to go any higher than 4.7 on my 6600k but if I could reduce noise I'd be interested. Are the exhaust fans still needed and are the fans on a radiator significantly quieter than typical case fans?
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Aug 26, 2016 02:50
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Bad Gandalf posted:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant You could probably save a little money by getting a 1060 instead of a 1070 because a 1060 should be more than adequate for 1080p but if you ever plan on going to 1440p I'd stick with the 1070.
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Aug 26, 2016 03:52
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It's the lowest 10 series I think but it outperforms a 970 and costs less so it's really hard to call it poo poo tier. The 1060 is $250, the 1070 is $400, and the 1080 is $650 so while it's on the low end of cards it still outperforms the midtier card from the last generation.
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Aug 28, 2016 18:14
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400 would be cutting it really close, especially if you end up needing some case fans or decide to overclock your GPU or CPU.
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Aug 28, 2016 19:08
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CharlieFoxtrot posted:You could get a 4K 60hz monitor though. You need a lot more hardware to get things to look nice at a decent frame rate in 4k than you do at 1440p though.
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Sep 3, 2016 02:45
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You can also look at builds by case (or any other part) on pcpartpicker so just look at builds worth your case and see what people are using for components.
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Sep 5, 2016 14:54
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Mister Fister posted:Just got a 1060 card. Dumb question, is the "Vertical Sync -> Fast" option in the Nvidia Control panel the fast sync option? I'm curious about this too. I have a GTX 1080 on a 1440p 60hz monitor and a lot of the games I play end up exceeding 60fps and giving me screen tearing. Is setting vsync from the Nvidia control panel better than seeing it per game in each game's settings?
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Sep 6, 2016 20:35
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jauk3n posted:What country are you in? USA USA!!! Ok here goes. I changed a bunch of stuff. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.39 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.79 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini ITX OC Video Card ($384.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: be quiet! Silent Base 800 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.49 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.88 @ OutletPC) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260HMWDTX1 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($44.99 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Logitech Y-UY95 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($63.01 @ Amazon) Total: $1297.40 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-07 10:12 EDT-0400 If you're gaming the i7 won't do anything for you so I switched it out for the i5 6600k. I also switched the cooler and the ram because you picked ones that were a bit expensive. I picked a motherboard with on board ethernet and good sound output options so you don't need the sound wired network cards. I picked an SSD that is well regarded and twice as big as what you picked, and I picked a current generation video card rather than last generation. The 1070 is cheaper and better than the 980. Finally I picked a power supply with a better warranty and reliability. It ends up being a lot better and cheaper.
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Sep 7, 2016 15:18
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