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I'm getting some advice for a friend who is interested in building a gaming PC that can utilize VR for flight simulators. The computer will also be used to run virtual servers, video editing, and general coding required to get different IT certifications. One of the requirements will be to run three monitors (they wouldn't all be used for gaming at the same time). Center monitor will be 27" 2560 X 1440 at 16:9 and then the other two monitors will most likely be 24" 1920 X 1080 at 16:9. Budget is about $1500 not including monitors. However, if money can be saved for about the same performance, then going a little bit cheaper is preferred. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($293.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: *Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($56.98 @ Newegg) Memory: *G.Skill Aegis 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($134.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: *Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($211.77 @ Amazon) Storage: *Toshiba MD03ACA-V 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($134.88 @ Amazon) Video Card: *Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($394.99 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE P400S ATX Mid Tower Case ($71.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: *SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($62.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1362.48 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-22 02:24 EDT-0400 Question: Does mixing aspect ratios on monitors cause any unforeseen issues in performance or otherwise? And does this look like a good build for the price?
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Oct 22, 2016 07:33
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 20:54 |
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Looking for a cheap GPU upgrade to hold me over for the next two years. CPU: i5-3570K Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LX GPU: AMD Radeon 7950 RAM: 16 GB DDR3 1333 Mhz From what I understand I can probably overclock my CPU and then get a newer GPU, what GPU should I get that will match my CPU such that they both optimize each other without one bottlenecking the other? What's the best AMD recommendation and what's the best Nvidia recommendation?
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Nov 18, 2017 23:09
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I haven't built a computer in a while, what are good brands for GPUs these days? Is it still Sapphire, EVGA, ASUS, and MSI? Are there any brands to stay away from? Also, what's a good price around Black Friday for a GTX 1060 6GB? Under $225? Same with the RX 580 8GB, under $260?
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Nov 19, 2017 06:39
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I'm looking at getting either a GTX 1060 6GB or RX 580 8GB, I have this build currently Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LX CPU: Intel i5-3570K CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO – CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan GPU: Sapphire Vapor-X Radeon HD 7950 DirectX 11 100352VXSR 3GB 384-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card PSU: PC Power & Cooling Silencer Series 500 Watt 80+ Bronze Semi-Modular Active PFC Industrial Grade ATX PC Power Supply (PPCMK3S500) SSD: Intel 330 Series 2.5” 240GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) SSDSC2CT240A3K5 HDD: Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5” Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive RAM: Corsair XMS 16 GB (2 X 8 GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Desktop Model CMX16GX3M2A1333C9 I'm going to be overclocking the CPU once I get a new GPU. If I get a new GPU, will I be able to power everything adequately?
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Nov 22, 2017 17:00
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Eletriarnation posted:Yeah, 500W is plenty for anything you put with that. The rest of the system put together won't use more than 150W, and for example even a GTX 1080 has a stock power cap at 180W that can only be increased by a little without hardware modification. 1060 is capped at 120W and can only increase to 144, I believe. Okay, I will keep the PSU age in mind, thank you! alex314 posted:In this test: Understood, thanks!
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Nov 22, 2017 19:42
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I'm thinking about possibly upgrading my computer piecemeal due to the great pricing on PSUs currently from EVGA. I know that RAM and GPU prices are very inflated right now, but for the most part CPU is okay. Would getting a new PSU be a wise decision based upon the sales that are happening on the EVGA website right now if I were to upgrade my computer over the course of, say, 6 months? This is the build I currently have, from 5 years ago: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($275.00 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus - P8Z77-V LX ATX LGA1155 Motherboard Memory: Corsair - XMS 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Intel - 330 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.35 @ Amazon) Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card Case: Fractal Design - Arc Midi R2 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: PC Power & Cooling - Silencer MK III 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($80.19 @ Amazon) Optical Drive: Samsung - SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($23.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $875.40 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-27 00:05 EST-0500 I was only going to upgrade the GPU to either a GTX 1060 6GB, or a RX 580 8 GB, but I missed the RX 580 sales this year on Newegg. However, if getting a PSU with a 10 year warranty is worth it now, then I might consider upgrading piecemeal over the course of the next few months in this order: 1. PSU 2. GPU 3. CPU, Motherboard, and RAM at the same time. Which path should I take, upgrade only GPU and then make a completely new build about two years from now (original plan)? Or upgrade piecemeal using the same case that I have now (I'd like to keep the case to save money) by starting with a PSU from EVGA? If I should go the piecemeal route, what wattage should I get on the PSU?
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Nov 27, 2017 06:10
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I'm trying to figure out if I damaged something on my motherboard. The motherboard is an ASUS P8Z77-V LX. I recently got a GTX 1060 to replace the Radeon 7950 I have. I downloaded DDU, removed the old AMD drivers, then booted in safe mode. Everything was working fine until that point. I turned off the computer, opened the case, disconnected the video card, and put the GTX 1060 in. After installing the GTX 1060 I turned the computer back on and I get no POST error codes and no display on the monitor. I shut everything off and take out the GTX 1060 and put the Radeon 7950 back in and it still results in no POST error codes and no display on the monitor. I shut everything down again and remove the Radeon 7950 so that there isn't a video card connected at all and I turn on the computer. Same thing, no POST error codes and no display on the monitor (with the monitor being connected to the motherboard video output). I decide to go with a CMOS reset, so I disconnect power, pull the button battery, and move the jumper on the motherboard per the manual to reset, then place the jumper back to the original position. With no video card installed, I then the computer back on and I still get the same problem of no POST error codes and no display on the monitor. Any ideas what I may have messed up? The motherboard is 5 years old, but it's been working fine until this point.
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Dec 2, 2017 10:44
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Generally whenever you're adding new components to an existing computer, a good rule of thumb is to remove all the ATX power leads from the motherboard, or failing that, taking out the plug from the PSU and holding the power button down for a few seconds to drain the latent power from the PSU's capacitors. The goal in both instances being to ensure there's no excess juice flowing around/through the motherboard. There is a chance that you might be the one in a million case of a spark of static electricity that you didn't even feel might've fried something. Would it be more frugal to buy a replacement motherboard, or go ahead and do an upgrade and replace the motherboard, cpu, and RAM?
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Dec 2, 2017 22:13
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I recently bought a used replacement motherboard for my computer, I've watched some videos about how to test the motherboard before putting it in the case. After I've turned on the motherboard by "jumping" the two pins (motherboard doesn't have an on switch button), do I have to do anything else besides turning off the power supply and unplugging the power supply from the wall to ensure that there's no charge in the motherboard? Would I be in the clear to insert the motherboard into the case at that point?
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Dec 5, 2017 07:00
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 20:54 |
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Question about whether or not I have to reinstall my old OS, I've read conflicting information. After my old motherboard fried, I have a replacement motherboard coming on the way. The replacement motherboard is the exact same brand and model. I have my old 256 GB SSD that had Windows 7 installed on it before my motherboard fried, a 2TB HDD, and a brand new 1TB SSD that's never been formatted or installed in a computer. Can I simply hook up the SSDs and the HDD to the replacement motherboard without having the reinstall Windows 7? Or will I have to do a clean fresh install of Windows 7 with this new motherboard? Edit: Important note, I have the Windows 7 OEM system builder's pack, if that makes a difference. Ideal Paradigm fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Dec 6, 2017 |
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Dec 6, 2017 02:32
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