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BaseballPCHiker
Jan 16, 2006

My old porcelain bathtub has a bunch of chips coming off from the middle of the tub. I'm immediately concerned about my kid eating one, and long term concerned about any potential water leakage. Anyone know how big a deal this is? Looks like there are some patch type solutions one can do to cover and mitigate this. It can look ugly, a non slip mat is going over it.

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skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

Residency Evil posted:

Does anyone have strong options regarding a general home/auto tool/socket set? My old craftsman one got stolen.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-4-in-3-8-in-and-in-Drive-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set-168-Piece-DWMT73803/205806331

This seems fine?

One of the biggest selling points for Craftsman was the fact that they were the poor man's Snap-On or Mac - you break any of their hand tools, you bring it to the store and give it to them, you get a brand new one off the shelf for $0 without any hassle. Husky (and to a lesser extend Kobalt at Lowes) have moved into that space with the forever no-questions-asked warranty replacement. If that is something you feel is important, I would go with either Husky or Kobalt depending on which store is closer to you. I have several iterations of the Husky sets and they are all extremely nice. This would be a close match to that Dewalt set: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Mechanics-Tool-Set-149-Piece-H149MTS/308802590

If that isn't important, the Dewalt is fine, so are Tekton sets you can get on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-8-Inch-12-Point-Ratchet-47-Piece/dp/B07RFNPPYC/

skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

BaseballPCHiker posted:

My old porcelain bathtub has a bunch of chips coming off from the middle of the tub. I'm immediately concerned about my kid eating one, and long term concerned about any potential water leakage. Anyone know how big a deal this is? Looks like there are some patch type solutions one can do to cover and mitigate this. It can look ugly, a non slip mat is going over it.

Not hazardous; it's effectively glass (which I still wouldn't want my kid eating) but it isn't toxic. Any of the two-part epoxy patch kids i.e. something like this https://www.amazon.com/Repair-Acrylic-Porcelain-Fiberglass-Countertop/dp/B07X35ZJYQ/ are fine if you don't care about color matching it exactly. There is effectively zero chance of long term water leakage, there is between 1/8" and 1/4" cast iron under the porcelain and that would have to rust out completely in order to leak water.

If you want it to look really nice sans non-slip mat there are porcelain specialists who can come out and do a full coat over the entire tub. These will typically look good for between 2-5 years or so depending on how you treat them. No idea of the cost but it was something my parents did once or twice to our tub when I was a kid and it looked pretty nice. I think they can also do a non-slip additive to the bottom so you don't need the mats.

BaseballPCHiker
Jan 16, 2006

Awesome to hear thank you!

Long term, sometime in the next 20 years.... We'll probably remodel the tub area. But until then an ugly but effective patch kit will work just fine.

Quaint Quail Quilt
Jun 19, 2006


Ask me about that time I told people mixing bleach and vinegar is okay

Residency Evil posted:

Does anyone have strong options regarding a general home/auto tool/socket set? My old craftsman one got stolen.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-4-in-3-8-in-and-in-Drive-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set-168-Piece-DWMT73803/205806331

This seems fine?
I also have it and no complaints, I think it was on sale at Costco for $89 at the time though. It covers the common sizes well enough for most everything.

skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

BaseballPCHiker posted:

Awesome to hear thank you!

Long term, sometime in the next 20 years.... We'll probably remodel the tub area. But until then an ugly but effective patch kit will work just fine.

When that day comes, do not make the mistake I did and think "gee, a cast iron tub costs like $700 and it's heavy and i don't want to move that in, I'll just pick up this nice Sterling Vikrell (acrylic) tub instead! It comes in three pieces! I can move it in myself! There will be barely anything to tile!" What a dumb move that was and I rue it every goddamn day when I go into the bathroom, see the cracks (that Sterling fixed twice) on the apron, see the huge ugly spaces where the tub fits together that collect hair and soap and gross poo poo, etc. And I followed the directions to a T and the tub still cracked in like 5 places.

Buy the cast iron tub, thank me later.

dxt
Mar 27, 2004
METAL DISCHARGE
Anyone know how to take out the center piece of my bathtub drain? I got the stopper top off, but I can't figure out to go get this center part out.



Any guide or video I can find has them just unscrewing or easily pulling it out, but it just spins endlessly when I try to unscrew it and it doesn't butch when I pull on it. Is there something I'm missing or is this just a have a few beers and pull really hard situation? I'd like to just put a filter in the drain to stop hair from going down the drain clogging it, but this middle piece blocks anything that would sit in the drain.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

You either need to visit the 3d printer thread or buy a pair of vise grips

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
Well. It should be threaded in, but if it's spinning, the threads may be stripped? I went to use the specific tool to remove one and it broke the middle part out, so I ended a piece out with a dremel and crushing it with slip joint pliers. Then just threaded in a new one.

raggedphoto
May 10, 2008

I'd like to shoot you

skybolt_1 posted:


Buy the cast iron tub, thank me later.

This. I spent stupid $$ on a Kholer soaking tub because I got obsessed with having a deep tub. Tub arrives and is cheaply slapped together fiberglass that I could literally see light shine through before I installed it. I should’ve bought a $400 cast iron tub instead.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

skybolt_1 posted:

When that day comes, do not make the mistake I did and think "gee, a cast iron tub costs like $700 and it's heavy and i don't want to move that in, I'll just pick up this nice Sterling Vikrell (acrylic) tub instead! It comes in three pieces! I can move it in myself! There will be barely anything to tile!" What a dumb move that was and I rue it every goddamn day when I go into the bathroom, see the cracks (that Sterling fixed twice) on the apron, see the huge ugly spaces where the tub fits together that collect hair and soap and gross poo poo, etc. And I followed the directions to a T and the tub still cracked in like 5 places.

Buy the cast iron tub, thank me later.

You're not wrong. My first acrylic tub I installed cracked. I could feel it flex before then and I wasn't surprised. I really poor boyed the install due to time and budget constraints. When I replaced it I ripped out the subfloor and replaced that and reinforced it as well around the drain, and the replacement was fine. But Holy poo poo did replacing it suck. Pulling tile, ripping into the wall to t-Spin that bitch in place.

It sucks hard that the jetted ones are all fiberglass or acrylic and that I am going to have to install one because my wife wants that or a hottub.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
I am a strong proponent of 'bath tubs are for children & dogs' so our master just has a walk-in shower.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Comrade Gritty posted:

I've read my meter to the point that I made sure the total kwh ever read on the meter matches what is being printed on my bill.

Unfortunately my daughter's been sick for ~2 months and ended up admitted to the hospital (she was discharged yesterday, and is doing much better) so I haven't had any time to do further exploration.

not been any single hour in all of January that had less than 2kwh used

oof, I'm sorry your kid got so sick and glad to hear she's out of the hospital and on the mend.

Go stand at your meter, the ones in SCE-land cycle through like 4 displays - Total kwh, Instant read (0.495 kw), test (all segments on), and SYNCNET or something similar. That can help guide you.

dxt
Mar 27, 2004
METAL DISCHARGE

Alarbus posted:

Well. It should be threaded in, but if it's spinning, the threads may be stripped? I went to use the specific tool to remove one and it broke the middle part out, so I ended a piece out with a dremel and crushing it with slip joint pliers. Then just threaded in a new one.

Threads could be stripped. I guess a dremel would be an option if I can't pull it out. I don't think I'll be using the tub as a tub anytime soon.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

I am a strong proponent of 'bath tubs are for children & dogs' so our master just has a walk-in shower.

99% of the time I take showers, but there are just those 1% of times when I'm sick, sore, or stressed where a hot bath really makes it all worthwhile for me.

Tricky Ed
Aug 18, 2010

It is important to avoid confusion. This is the one that's okay to lick.


dxt posted:

Threads could be stripped. I guess a dremel would be an option if I can't pull it out. I don't think I'll be using the tub as a tub anytime soon.

You can get a generic tub stopper for occasional use. I used to travel with a flat silicone one in my "never check a bag" days in case the hotel sink couldn't hold water for washing.

dxt
Mar 27, 2004
METAL DISCHARGE

Tricky Ed posted:

You can get a generic tub stopper for occasional use. I used to travel with a flat silicone one in my "never check a bag" days in case the hotel sink couldn't hold water for washing.

Good idea, thanks. I'm going to yank and/or cut that thing out

moana
Jun 18, 2005

one of the more intellectual satire communities on the web

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

I am a strong proponent of 'bath tubs are for children & dogs' so our master just has a walk-in shower.
Yeah yeah yeah but what do you soak in when you get a big old hemorrhoid on yer kiester? Ah, to be so young and carefree!

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time

Comrade Gritty posted:

I've read my meter to the point that I made sure the total kwh ever read on the meter matches what is being printed on my bill.

Unfortunately my daughter's been sick for ~2 months and ended up admitted to the hospital (she was discharged yesterday, and is doing much better) so I haven't had any time to do further exploration.

I did get my first bill (only a partial month) since switching my energy supplier back to PECO, which means PECO provides me with hourly breakdowns of power use. Looking at that, there's basically not been any single hour in all of January that had less than 2kwh used, but otherwise the shape of the charts look roughly what I would expect, just +1kwh or 1.5kwh or so from what it sounds like should be expected.

I have a big backlog of stuff to take care of, but I hope that sometime in the next couple of days I can try to do some rudimentary "flip breaker, watch meter" testing, since I've run out of things to plug my KAW into that seem even remotely likely to cause it.

Dude, I’m sorry to hear your daughter has been sick. Last January my son wound up in the local children’s hospital for a couple weeks and it was the scariest experience of my life. I hope she recovers quickly.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Comrade Gritty posted:

I've read my meter to the point that I made sure the total kwh ever read on the meter matches what is being printed on my bill.

Unfortunately my daughter's been sick for ~2 months and ended up admitted to the hospital (she was discharged yesterday, and is doing much better) so I haven't had any time to do further exploration.

I did get my first bill (only a partial month) since switching my energy supplier back to PECO, which means PECO provides me with hourly breakdowns of power use. Looking at that, there's basically not been any single hour in all of January that had less than 2kwh used, but otherwise the shape of the charts look roughly what I would expect, just +1kwh or 1.5kwh or so from what it sounds like should be expected.

I have a big backlog of stuff to take care of, but I hope that sometime in the next couple of days I can try to do some rudimentary "flip breaker, watch meter" testing, since I've run out of things to plug my KAW into that seem even remotely likely to cause it.

This might be a stupid idea but couldn’t you easily put a clamp meter on the breaker mains and measure the current?

Measure side one, start flipping off breakers, note the change in draw
Measure side two, start flipping off breakers, note the change in draw

Then you have a very precise answer that doesn’t involve trying to read the meter.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Residency Evil posted:

Does anyone have strong options regarding a general home/auto tool/socket set? My old craftsman one got stolen.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-4-in-3-8-in-and-in-Drive-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set-168-Piece-DWMT73803/205806331

This seems fine?

Nothing wrong with that kit but it's missing a hammer and any pliers so if you don't have those separately already pick them up as well. Pliers come in packs, 4-8 pieces, go with what you imagine needing. Vise grips and an adjustable wrench are always useful as well.

Bobcats
Aug 5, 2004
Oh
Ryobi and DeWalt is fine slash borderline overkill for home use. :gay:

Fun homeownership lesson - be REALLY careful when snaking a toilet unless you want to spend a thousand years polishing off a tiny layer of metal from porcelain.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Bobcats posted:

Fun homeownership lesson - be REALLY careful when snaking a toilet unless you want to spend a thousand years polishing off a tiny layer of metal from porcelain.

I rather just replace the toilet tbh.

I love Ryobi stuff as a homeowner. I don't make money with my tools, and some of my most used Ryobi stuff is things like inflators, the cordless hot glue gun, fans, led lights and other not tool stuff that Ryobi makes.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

CarForumPoster posted:

This might be a stupid idea but couldn’t you easily put a clamp meter on the breaker mains and measure the current?

If you have and know how to use a clamp meter then it wouldn't be a mystery. I don't recommend this as babies first clamp experience.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

CarForumPoster posted:

This might be a stupid idea but couldn’t you easily put a clamp meter on the breaker mains and measure the current?

Measure side one, start flipping off breakers, note the change in draw
Measure side two, start flipping off breakers, note the change in draw

Then you have a very precise answer that doesn’t involve trying to read the meter.

Yes, this was mentioned before. The basic Emporia would make this trivial, I have one and it works well and you get immediate feedback.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R11H2Q2

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer
The roof saga continues. We signed a contract for a roof for $26k (It's a big roof), and all that. I talked through the next steps with or loan maintainer and the insurer after things were signed and in place. Our loan maintainer has never heard of this happening before, and didn't even know we were losing insurance... She was convinced that once the documents are signed, we were good for the year. Prodding for more information from insurance folk did not inspire me with this idea that this was some kind of normal process.

This entire thing has been extremely suspect. I don't know if I just call State Farm Cooperate to make sure poo poo is on the up and up, but the roof is signed for anyway I guess...

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

skipdogg posted:

I rather just replace the toilet tbh.

I love Ryobi stuff as a homeowner. I don't make money with my tools, and some of my most used Ryobi stuff is things like inflators, the cordless hot glue gun, fans, led lights and other not tool stuff that Ryobi makes.

Honestly, for most homeowners you can use anything not named "Harbor Freight" and it'll be just fine. Ryobi stuff holds up fine as long as you take care of batteries where needed and replace the consumable portions as appropriate, but that describes basically anything you get in a realistic price range. I may be (I am) bad at this poo poo, but quality of tool has never been the limiting factor for me on home repairs. It's always either been not having the right tool at all, or not having the practice to do it well.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Sundae posted:

Honestly, for most homeowners you can use anything not named "Harbor Freight" and it'll be just fine. Ryobi stuff holds up fine as long as you take care of batteries where needed and replace the consumable portions as appropriate, but that describes basically anything you get in the price range of "not too good to be true." I may be (I am) bad at this poo poo, but quality of tool has never been the limiting factor for me on home repairs. It's always either been not having the right tool, or not having the practice to do it well.

If we're being honest with ourselves a lot of Harbor Freight crap is perfectly fine for your typical homeowner weekend project. My personal rule of thumb when bargain hunting there is nothing with a motor and nothing load bearing (see: car stands, pretty sure they had a nasty recall about those specifically). Which, yeah, you're talking about stuff that needs batteries so all this is kinda pointless, but I do stand by them as a good enough place to get junk chisels and the like to abuse without giving a gently caress.

Democratic Pirate
Feb 17, 2010

“Measure twice, cut once” became “measure 10 times, drill once” when big drywall anchors are involved.

Upgrade
Jun 19, 2021



Canine Blues Arooo posted:

The roof saga continues. We signed a contract for a roof for $26k (It's a big roof), and all that. I talked through the next steps with or loan maintainer and the insurer after things were signed and in place. Our loan maintainer has never heard of this happening before, and didn't even know we were losing insurance... She was convinced that once the documents are signed, we were good for the year. Prodding for more information from insurance folk did not inspire me with this idea that this was some kind of normal process.

This entire thing has been extremely suspect. I don't know if I just call State Farm Cooperate to make sure poo poo is on the up and up, but the roof is signed for anyway I guess...

Can’t you just call a new insurer?

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer

Upgrade posted:

Can’t you just call a new insurer?

I called another one, explained the situation, and they basically said, 'Well, I'm guessing our underwriters will come back with the same conclusion'. In retrospec, I probably should have just called the entire city :(.

Comrade Gritty
Sep 19, 2011

This Machine Kills Fascists

CarForumPoster posted:

This might be a stupid idea but couldn’t you easily put a clamp meter on the breaker mains and measure the current?

Measure side one, start flipping off breakers, note the change in draw
Measure side two, start flipping off breakers, note the change in draw

Then you have a very precise answer that doesn’t involve trying to read the meter.


H110Hawk posted:

If you have and know how to use a clamp meter then it wouldn't be a mystery. I don't recommend this as babies first clamp experience.


opengl posted:

Yes, this was mentioned before. The basic Emporia would make this trivial, I have one and it works well and you get immediate feedback.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R11H2Q2


I'm confident enough to run low voltage wiring, replace outlets/fixtures/etc or adding very basic circuits to a panel with open spots. I've never used nor do I own a clamp meter so I probably won't buy one just for this. We've been getting our basement finished the last few months, so I haven't put something like Emporia in yet because I didn't want it to interfere with any sort of electrical inspection (they had to replace a sub panel as part of that)... but final inspection for that is tomorrow, so I guess I can just order the Emporia now, which will save me from having to keep running outside at least.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cyrano4747 posted:

If we're being honest with ourselves a lot of Harbor Freight crap is perfectly fine for your typical homeowner weekend project. My personal rule of thumb when bargain hunting there is nothing with a motor and nothing load bearing (see: car stands, pretty sure they had a nasty recall about those specifically). Which, yeah, you're talking about stuff that needs batteries so all this is kinda pointless, but I do stand by them as a good enough place to get junk chisels and the like to abuse without giving a gently caress.

Harbor freight hand tools (wrenches, sockets, etc) are as good as Craftsman ever had been and have the warranty Craftsman no longer has (walk into a store, no bullshit, get handed a new tool).

Some things with a motor, and even their gas motors are also okay. In fact the gas motors are quite good.

I've been running HF angle grinders for a long time. You just have to open them up and scrape out the really poor quality grease and casting swarf left in there from manufacturing, clean and re pack with good grease. I can understand why someone wouldn't want to do that but I've been running some of them for nearly a decade.

I also picked up their 3/8 compact cordless ratchet. It's really quite good. I've only had it a few months but I've been through 2 major projects with it and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm considering picking up the long reach version of it as well.

It's more of a "you need to know what NOT to buy there" issue at this point. But they're doing quite well.

Their aluminum racing jack is the go-to of most people who track their cars. But yeah......don't buy jack stands there.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

Cyrano4747 posted:

If we're being honest with ourselves a lot of Harbor Freight crap is perfectly fine for your typical homeowner weekend project. My personal rule of thumb when bargain hunting there is nothing with a motor and nothing load bearing (see: car stands, pretty sure they had a nasty recall about those specifically). Which, yeah, you're talking about stuff that needs batteries so all this is kinda pointless, but I do stand by them as a good enough place to get junk chisels and the like to abuse without giving a gently caress.

Oh yeah, I specifically meant motors and load bearing stuff. I was thinking drills, saws, etc etc. :) Chisels, paint scrapers, etc etc, that's all fine.

quote:

I've been running HF angle grinders for a long time. You just have to open them up and scrape out the really poor quality grease and casting swarf left in there from manufacturing, clean and re pack with good grease.

This is describing something 99% of homeowners won't even realize is an option to do, let alone actually do.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Most homeowners won't run an angle grinder to the point of lovely grease and metal manufacturing dust mattering in a decade.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

The roof saga continues. We signed a contract for a roof for $26k (It's a big roof), and all that. I talked through the next steps with or loan maintainer and the insurer after things were signed and in place. Our loan maintainer has never heard of this happening before, and didn't even know we were losing insurance... She was convinced that once the documents are signed, we were good for the year. Prodding for more information from insurance folk did not inspire me with this idea that this was some kind of normal process.

This entire thing has been extremely suspect. I don't know if I just call State Farm Cooperate to make sure poo poo is on the up and up, but the roof is signed for anyway I guess...

It's a thing, it's just not common. I took this from my homeowners paperwork. Some of these may be Texas specific and TDI means Texas Dept of Insurance. Your state's rules may vary.

quote:

13. Insurance company cancellation of homeowners policies. If your homeowners policy has been in effect
for 60 days or more, your company can only cancel your policy if:
• You don’t pay your premium when it is due;
• You file a fraudulent claim;

• There is an increase in the risk covered by the policy that is: (a) within your control and (b) would
make your premium go up; or
• TDI decides that keeping the policy violates the law.
If your policy has been in effect for less than 60 days, your company can only cancel your policy if:
• One of the reasons listed above applies;
They reject a required inspection report within 10 days after getting the report. The report must be
done by a licensed or authorized inspector and cannot be more than 90 days old; or

• They find something that creates an increase in risk that you did not include in your application and
is not related to a prior claim.

It's common for insurance companies to send out an inspector after they write a policy just to make sure the house is in a condition they are comfortable with. ASI/Progressive sent one out last year to my house, he knocked on the door said he was going to take a couple pictures for the insurance company inspection report and just wanted to let me know why a stranger was outside taking pictures of my house.

What likely happened is you got your policy Dec 1st last year, they sent someone out to do an inspection and the insurance company said we're not going to cover that roof. They proceeded to cancel the policy, giving you notice and refunding the premium.

Did you have any luck finding another company from your local independent broker?

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Roofs are super common reasons for insurance companies to drop coverage, and it can happen at any point in the policy cycle. Just because you pay them doesn't mean you're set for the whole year.

Some will do it simply due to age of the roof.... they might not even inspect it, they can just check your file and see that the roof is too old for their taste and send a nastygram to you.

skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

Motronic posted:

You just have to open them up and scrape out the really poor quality grease and casting swarf left in there from manufacturing, clean and re pack with good grease.

What grease do you use for this? I have been using Stens "00" grease which I think is the modern equivalent of "corn head" grease i.e. a sort of slurry type stuff that flows even when cold. I have had decent luck with it but curious what you're using.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

H110Hawk posted:

Most homeowners won't run an angle grinder to the point of lovely grease and metal manufacturing dust mattering in a decade.

You will with at least half of the harbor freight ones I've taken apart. It's literally a "run it for 5 minutes and it's already trashed" situation with some of them. The quality control is startlingly bad on those things in particular.

And realistically, most homeowners will never run an angle grinder.

It was being used specifically as an example of what one might do with HF equipment if you were exceptionally cheap and feeling clever. But it seems that I've confused both you and Sundae at this point. Maybe because you stopped reading at your quotes and missed the:

Motronic posted:

I can understand why someone wouldn't want to do that

part.

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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Motronic posted:

Maybe because you stopped reading at your quotes and missed the:

part.

You OK man? This is salty even for you.

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