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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:I don't know, in Philly in most neighborhoods all the houses were rowhomes with shared walls but they were this really incredibly thick plaster and so sound from neighbors was literally never an issue even with a SCREAMING baby. It's different when these lovely modern construction firms try their take on "walls" aka drywall sandwiches around shared structures. While the plaster helps, it's really the PROPER CODE REQUIRED FIREWALL of the time - i.e., block or brick. As soon as the regs started counting 2 sheets of 5/8" drywall as a 2 hour rated assembly things went just as you'd expect in regards to noise.
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Feb 18, 2017 18:30
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dalstrs posted:Is there any yard mosquito control that actually works or are they all gimmicks? They guy at the hardware store was telling me how great some garlic extract stuff they sell was but it was around $70 for a gallon which is 4x as expensive as most of the other insecticides they were selling. Assuming you're talking about yard/area control, everything I've tried other than fogging (which lasts for about a day so it only suitable for like....events) or the CO2 generators that you hang a propane cylinder off of have been somewhere between worthless to nearly worthless.
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Feb 24, 2017 21:29
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dalstrs posted:drat, that's what I was afraid of. If it's bad enough that you would splash out for professional treatment, you're in the range of money to buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SkeeterVac-SV5100-Mosquito-Eliminator-Coverage/dp/B00134J6QQ You may need 2. I'm not endorsing that particular model - I know nothing about it, just an example. But that style is what actually works. It's the kind of thing you'll find hidden in the landscaping at resorts in the tropics and poo poo. They definitely do the job. robotindisguise posted:Make sure you and your neighbors get rid of all standing water. Garbage debris and gutters/drains are big culprits. Yes. Do the simple stuff first, but you'll still likely need something else.
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Feb 27, 2017 04:04
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RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:Everyone and their mother seems to think it's OK to drive on my lawn so the grass on the edge of it is totally torn up and replaced with tire tracks. The last straw for my wife was we came home yesterday and some woman was in a smoking, disabled car in our lawn because she decided to use our lawn to make a U-turn (why she did not choose to use our empty driveway I cannot fathom) and got stuck and had to be towed. Does anyone have any ideas for discouraging this short of building a full-fledged fence? I'm a bit sensitive to big outlays given that I just bought the house a few months ago and also my car was just totaled. I was thinking maybe some reflectors might help. Very large rocks. This has the added benefit of actually stopping cars from crashing through your fence/further into your yard/into your house.
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Mar 2, 2017 15:32
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LogisticEarth posted:(in eastern PA) You can borrow mine if you do my driveway first.
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Mar 14, 2017 14:43
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dalstrs posted:Anyone know about dethatching? I'm trying to get my yard looking nice and green and there is a layer of thatch over a big section without much growth other than a few weeds. I've seen a lot of opinions going between core aeration and dethatching and I am not sure which will really help get my yard looking the best. Some additional information, I think sometime last year the previous owner put St. Augustine sod over the yard. I see it popping up in places but there are a lot of weeds and some dead spots. It also looks like in a couple sections there used to be a tree and the ground is exceptionally soft in those areas (maybe the roots rotting underground). How big of an area? If we're not talking about 1/4 acre or more you should go spend $40 on a dethatching rake (the kind with little round wire tines), get to work and throw some seed down when you're done. Best time is in the fall, but if you get started early in the spring you should be okay.
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Mar 26, 2017 23:23
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brugroffil posted:I bought myself a Weber Genesis last year after my old grill rusted apart and have loved it so far. Use it 2-3 times a week even through the dead of winter. My parents won whatever the biggest Weber Summit series grill was back in ~2005 and that one still looks like new with regular use. My inlaws have a Spirit that's seen regular usage for 4 or 5 years now and it's holding up well, too. Please tell me how well this works if you leave it outside. Is your uncovered and still fine? Because that's what I want, but maybe not really possible. FYI, it snows here and I have and will continue to shovel snow off of my grill to make steak. My generic charcoal thing is rusting out after 6 or 7 years. I'll just get another and be fine with that if what I'm asking for isn't a reasonable thing. LogisticEarth posted:I'm betting you guys either don't do that much high heat cooking on the range, or have never used a good hood, because the utility of it is absolutely apparent once you use one. Sorry for the lovely response but....seriously...THIS. You may not care even if you have a good hood if you don't legit cook. But if you do a nice hood is a major quality of life improvement.
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Apr 3, 2017 01:34
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brugroffil posted:We're in the Chicago area, so the grills I mentioned see plenty of weather abuse. My parents and my in laws both keep their grills covered whenever they're not in use. I have a cover I sometimes use, but we have a big covered deck right off our kitchen that my grill sits on that shells like shields it from everything but sideways rain. That sounds promising. My problem with gill covers is that since I use it all the time I end up destroying one or two a winter when it's going through freeze/thaw cycles and some part of the cover is frozen or stuck to the grill.
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Apr 3, 2017 15:13
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Though now that I say that the fire marshall guy is going to come in here and mention how a similar setup caused a fire that killed 10 orphans and 3 dogs. The fire marshal (one "l") guy is cringing at this idea, and doubting it's to code in most places. Also, the cut sheet/instructions from a hopefully UL listed appliance like that are likely to prohibit it being installed this way, which makes is against code immediately and will come with insurance implications should something go wrong.
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Apr 3, 2017 16:19
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Wouldn't a 50k BTU fireplace 10' from the ceiling be safer than a 25k BTU range in a kitchen? That really depends on fuels and materials. Also, the range is rarely putting out it's full BTU potential and is to be installed with an appropriately rated hood above it......so when properly installed.....yes.
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Apr 3, 2017 17:42
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brugroffil posted:Does code these days require an external vent for the hood above the range? Neither of the homes I've owned have had one and nor do my parents or in-laws' homes built in the mid-90's. Most domestic ranges do not require an externally vented hood - but there is still a specifically designed hood. This is very different from having <insert random wall or ceiling finish here> above it. Even completely unpowered hoods deflect and radiate heat by design.
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Apr 3, 2017 18:01
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Large Hardon Collider posted:I'm in a condo with no externally vented hood, and no way to poke a hole to install one. There is a window right by the stove, though. Has anyone ever vented through a window? If you have a window you have an outside wall - so yes, you do have someplace to vent properly.
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Apr 4, 2017 15:43
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brugroffil posted:Isn't composite decking $$$ though? It's definitely more expensive, but you're front loading money to avoid future maintenance (more difficult cleaning, periodic staining/sealing) and gain longevity.
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Apr 7, 2017 16:43
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DTaeKim posted:While we're talking about lawns and landscaping, I want to complain about the previous owners of our house. They tore out a considerable amount of landscaping done by the previous owners, probably valued around $4000 to $6000. The former is potentially a good move depending. I've seem some really really bad poo poo. In fact, back in the day when I did that kind of thing for a living I did some really, really bad poo poo. But you do what they ask so you get the check. The latter......that's not okay.
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Apr 11, 2017 01:35
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DTaeKim posted:I can't even get rid of the dandelions because of the rocks directly underneath them. 2,4D. It will take a couple of weeks, but they will be gone. If you can be selective about only hitting the beds you can even use glyphosate in this situation, but you could hit your lawn with the 2,4-D to get rid of the dandelions there without killing the grass.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:07
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Manwich posted:I have a question about the pros and cons of a water softener system. Yes, water softeners are absolutely worth is from a quality of life standpoint. If you have hard water soap barely lathers and you have white chalky poo poo in every sink 15 minutes after you've cleaned it and run the water once. It will also reduce maintenance/extend the life of your hot water heater.
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Apr 13, 2017 17:16
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RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:I live in New England. I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about various low-maintenance lawn solutions because I did some reading on maintaining your lawn and I can't see myself doing as much mowing and watering as these people recommend. I'm going more for "green and not totally out of control" than "golf course" here so I don't mind some other plants getting mixed in if that helps. How abut you leave whatever happens to be there there if it's vaguely grasslike and mow it when necessary? That will likely result in what you are asking for. If you are having a specific problem right now with the lawn that prevents this from being the case you should describe it.
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Apr 17, 2017 02:11
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General question here.....what exactly is the aversion people have to proper gas powered small tools? I mean, I get that if you leave crap ethanol gas in them they don't want to start. But this has been an entirely solved problem for quite some time now (google: trufuel and you'll find that as well as many other brands).
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Apr 17, 2017 22:38
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RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:They say don't try it if the grade is steeper than 15 degrees and it's more like 45 degrees. If it's actually a 45 degree grade it's sketchy even with a commercial mower. A string trimmer and some practice is definitely going to be a better plan unless we're talking about a slope measured in acres.
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Apr 30, 2017 14:21
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QuarkJets posted:I pick up all of my appliances for free off of the side of the road, like a normal person
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May 11, 2017 01:25
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Tricky Ed posted:Always check a local Sears Outlet when you're looking for appliances. Actually going in and looking is pretty much your best option since their website won't list all of their items and their pictures will be terrible. Not everything will be a good buy, but sometimes you can get a good deal on something with just cosmetic damage. Occasionally a big box store will have returns at a great price, too, but they won't have them available during a sale. I've bought several things over the years as a big discount because it dented or scratched on the sides (that I can't see once it's in my house). Just keep telling them "no" about their slimy lovely warranty they try to upsell you on.
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May 12, 2017 02:59
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Don't completely discount any local appliance stores you may have around. I did, and then found out better from a neighbor and ended up buying my chest freezer from the local guys for well under the closest thing I could find at the Sears Outlet. Supposedly the ones near me are in some sort of buying consortium so they get decent pricing from the manufacturers. Couldn't beat the service. Two dudes in a pickup showed up the next morning, took the old one away and put the new one in place. About when they were done the owner showed up to make sure everything was going well and I handed him a check.
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May 14, 2017 14:49
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Droo posted:I also had the exact symptoms you describe when my unit was low on refrigerant - it ran for way too long and couldn't keep up. You can kind of check this yourself in a couple ways - measure the temperature drop between the supply air and the output air at a vent near the unit, it should be 20 degrees or more. This assumes a properly installed system first, so it's going to be meaningless for the OP. They need to start with an airflow test to make sure enough air is making it to each register and to the returns. This is going to require a professional. This professional should be saying things like "Manual J" when you speak to them. Also, one should always start with insulation and air sealing when it comes to performance problems with heat/cool. It could be really that simple (or not simple if insulation was missed or improperly installed in places).
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May 19, 2017 19:26
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Droo posted:Would the rest of the paragraph I typed that you cut off would be a valid way for a layman to check this on a new system? The point of what I posted was "no". If it's improperly installed (i.e., insufficient airflow across the condenser) it will cause all manner of symptoms that could look/feel like a refrigerant quantity issue to someone who doesn't have gauges and thermometers with the knowledge to use them. BusinessWallet posted:Could it just be that the return is just too small for the unit and it is starving for air? Yes. It could be this, it could be that, it could be another thing. There are tools operated by people with the proper knowledge that will determine this. Due to both complexity and tool expense this isn't a home gamer diagnosis. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 19, 2017 |
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May 19, 2017 20:45
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BusinessWallet posted:So far I've talked to 4 different HVAC contractors about this topic. One quoted me to replace the entire system with a "proper" install. One told me to double the size of my return grills. One told me it was operating completely within spec. One told me he wouldn't touch it at all. None of them took any kinds of measurements. So you found 4 of the wrong companies. I don't know where you are, and even if i did I wouldn't be able to help unless it was near where I live. But proper sales and service companies are out there. The very often do mostly commercial work where making these types of measurements is an everyday thing for rebalncing systems in large buildings based on change of uses of space within the building.
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May 19, 2017 20:57
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Droo posted:If the refrigerant pipe near the condenser is warm when the unit is running, what could cause that besides a low level of refrigerant? I'll assume you're talking about the suction line here. It can be low refrigerant charge, faulty TXV/piston, bad or badly installed reversing valve, it could be a bad compressor, it could be excessive refrigerant charge causing slugging that is damaging the compressor.................... Basically half of the components of the system could cause this, and the way it is diagnosed it with actual HVAC specific tools, not joe homeowner grabbing lines and searching on the internet. If anyone is interested enough in this to learn and purchase appropriate tools and testing equipment you can get started with my thread in AI, because working on known volume pre-engineered automative AC systems is like baby's first AC work. It just gets more complicated for fixed AC as you can't always know exact ineset length to derive an exact charge weight.
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May 19, 2017 22:28
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Sab0921 posted:Thread - you better be right, Speed Queen stackable set was delivered today. Hope it was worth the premium. The thread was right. I never should have left my speedqueens at my last house ~12 years ago. The only reason I haven't replaced what I have now is because of laundry room space/need to stack (which, who knows...maybe the offer than 12 years later).
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Jun 4, 2017 01:23
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Sab0921 posted:They make a stackable set. That's what I got. Sweet. Next time I have to even think about a repair on the ones I have now I know what I'm doing.
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Jun 4, 2017 16:57
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Pryor on Fire posted:Can bugs crawl in and set off smoke detectors? Losing my mind trying to figure out why my smoke/CO detectors go off every few weeks despite there being no smoke and no CO. Just a bunch of those wired together Kidde detectors I think. Yes, if they are photoelectric. It's a lot more likely one of them is going bad. How old are they? If 10 years or more they should be replaced. Edit: way to leave a window open for too long and have the conversation move past this. In any case, if they are due in 2019 may as well get on it.
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Jun 14, 2017 01:54
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H110Hawk posted:You aren't using sealed batteries? It's pretty common for those size batteries to be unsealed, like many lawn/garden batteries. They are essentially in suspended animation until you wet the cells, so you can keep them in stock/storage basically forever.
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Jun 21, 2017 16:08
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H110Hawk posted:There you go, I assumed everything residential had moved to gel cells so you didn't have home owners mucking around with acid. Batteries going bad on the shelf is apparently still more expensive than the acid spill lawsuits. (you know this is probably the actual calculation used)
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Jun 21, 2017 20:10
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Elysium posted:Speaking of dehumidifiers, my basement is approximately 600 square feet, finished with carpet on one side, and unfinished with utilities, laundry and a sump pump on the other side. Inbetween is a drywall wall with a door that is always partially open to let the cats into the unifinished side where their litter is. Unless there is significant airflow between the 2 sides you'll probably want 2 dehumidifiers. I keep mine set to about 55% in the basement. My old one recently died so I went looking for something more modern than the old compressor style, and exactly one company is making them. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hisense-100-Pint-3-Speed-Dehumidifier-with-Built-in-Pump/1000195229 It's expensive, but I seriously can already see a difference in my power bill. Will easily pay off the extra $150 or so it cost inside of a year.
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Jul 7, 2017 18:39
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Thesaurus posted:drat I'm glad i live somewhere where people use "humidifiers" and not the other way around The fun about having 4 seasons is that you very likely may need BOTH here, especially if you have forced air heat/heat pump which tends to dehumidify also. Don't need dehumidifiers in the rest of the house as the AC takes care of that just fine.
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Jul 7, 2017 20:39
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Mercury Ballistic posted:How does a dehumidifier same energy? Less water for the AC to remove? Maybe I phrased that wrong........I only have a dehumidifier where I don't have AC (the basement). It's unnecessary in a conditioned space when you have properly sized AC. The dehumidifier I bought (they are basically modified air conditioners) is inverter based, like the newest efficient AC units. So that particular one is cheaper to run than the old one (like by 50%)
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Jul 7, 2017 21:27
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Ixian posted:On the flip side, unless you are in a wealthy area non-HOA neighborhoods trend towards "where ELSE am I going to put my car up on blocks if not my driveway??" types. That sounds more like an exception than the norm, and my experience bears that out. Not to mention the fact that most places have some manner of code in force like the IPMC.
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Jul 9, 2017 22:16
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HEY NONG MAN posted:If you had an HOA she wouldn't even be able to rent the house out so That's far from universal. My direct HOA experience was as a renter years ago.
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Jul 12, 2017 18:25
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TuringM posted:Hi all. How much lawn are you cutting and do you have a decent amount of storage space? If it's an acre of more my go-to is always a 48" walk behind, picked up used from a landscaper.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:47
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Erwin posted:Yeah, something with a Briggs and Stratton or Honda motor will be fairly indestructible if you check the oil once in a while. Be sure to get rear-wheel drive if you're getting self-propelled and have any hills. Uhhh..no. B&S is junk. Honda is a different class and so much better (you will also pay for this but it's worth it). It's not 1985.
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Jul 13, 2017 03:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:When I hired contractors to put in the foundation slab for my workshop, I found a fairly sizable, empty tequila bottle in the yard afterwards. I consider myself lucky that a) they didn't gently caress up (I watched pretty much the entire process), and b) it was only one bottle. Awww, baby's first concrete hire. The last slab I had poured and finished consisted of providing extra beer for the two finishers at 9:30 in the morning because the talsies they were sitting in the foreman's truck drinking at 8 AM weren't enough to get them working to my satisfaction through last night's hangover. I had to dole them out based on "just drunk enough to not be in pain" and "too drunk to get the slope to the drains right." This is concrete.txt
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Jul 14, 2017 01:47
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Leperflesh posted:I would take it easy, and work on establishing a good relationship first. Probably your neighbors are overwhelmed and don't want to deal with things, and that may persist but it may not. Give them a little while, and then try suggesting things in as non-confrontational manner as possible. Maybe they're still dealing with the death of the father, maybe there's fights within the family over what to do with the home, I dunno. They're just not ready to deal with things yet, and that includes changes requested by a neighbor even if they don't cost anything. This right here. They are likely grieving and even more likely this home is stuck in probate and it's ugly. Those "owners" (hint, they are not - the estate still owns it) are only some of the "owners" and are afraid to do a drat thing right now because there is too much drama.
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Jul 30, 2017 19:54
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