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CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

mattfl posted:

Update!

After one missed appointment where the installer just didn't bother to show up, one phone call to the roofing company asking wtf and them saying ya that gutter company has problems, we'll take care of you though and do whole house gutters instead of the few pieces I originally had, being 2 hours late to the next scheduled appointment 2 weeks later and another phone call asking wtf I finally have gutters.



Roofing companies, biggest scam in the construction industry and I am glad to finally be done with them.

Now to paint the outside of the house!

This post is peak deed restricted central? Florida: Clear blue skies, bright green grass in December, incompetent construction story, subdvision house.

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CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
I almost feel silly asking this but...

I have a cute prob ~20 yr old wood shed that came with the house and while painted, the OSB+cedar(I think) doors are definitely rotting. Like, can't hold a #8 screw at all the screw drills right through kind of rotting.

Is there an option lazier than making new doors for it?

I feel like if I take the doors off the hinges it will pretty quickly end up where I have a bare slab and a metal shed on order that's bigger than the slab because I am totes gonna pour a little extra concrete.

EDIT: Yea metal sheds are less than a thousand bucks. This thing is nice but I will definitely demo it and put up a metal one
...and add insulation
...and paint it to match the house
...and I wish it had better lighting better plan to rewire it


its an airbnb now

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jan 2, 2021

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Grumpwagon posted:

Plumbing question:

My washer drains into my utility sink. I've noticed the sink's drain is slow lately, allowing the water to back up 3/4 of the way up the sink when draining. I'm planning on cleaning out the drain, but there's no obvious way to put an auger down there, so I've been lazy about it.

Today I went down as a load was finishing (so the sink was full) and noticed a lot of water on the ground coming from where the drain attaches to the main drain line. It is leaking from a cast iron pipe that leads into the concrete floor. I'm definitely calling a plumber here, as this is well out of my league, but I guess my question is, am I hosed or am I turbo hosed?

Album: https://imgur.com/a/v0Bt7iy

The drain only seems to have water there when the sink is backed up, and dries out after it is drained. Not sure what to make of that.


EDIT: Second question: The utility sink itself has seen better days and probably needs a new drain kit. I can't seem to find one at any place locally (Home Depot/Menards, hardware stores), and the manufacturer charges $50 shipped for a replacement. Googling "plumbing supply" seems to be a bunch of places that only serve plumbers directly. Is there some other store I should be looking at? Failing that, we have a double laundry tub, I could get a single tub for about the same as the drain kit, and I basically never use the fact that we have 2 tubs, is there any reason I shouldn't just buy a single?

No idea but there’s a lot of cast iron pipe lawsuits that start out this way.

https://www.forthepeople.com/insurance-attorney/cast-iron-pipes-lawsuit/

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Guhhh the missus got me a Ring doorbell for Christmas and has been annoyed that I haven't taken it out of the box yet. I'm just barely handy enough to plug in a lamp so this is rocket science to me. The chime box has no labels on any of the wiring, and the wires are all white cables with no markings. And there's only 2 terminals instead of the REAR FRONT TRANS I see in the guide

And hey, once I figure this part out I get to buy a drill so I can make holes in the masonry!!

Thinking about pretending to care that they give video to cops or whatever so I can be done with this

IIRC the voltage range on the ring is pretty wide. Is yours fine? The wiring for most doorbells is 28V AC so it’s literally as simple as charge, follow the set up from the App/QR code, be done. Extremely easy 5 minute thing.

I quite like our ring and two cameras on max privacy settings.

The idea that it won’t be good enough to trivially identify the perp is missing the point of “I/my wife know there’s a perp before I get home”

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Fallom posted:

Yeah it worked just fine on my doorbell wiring. No idea why that guy is talking about running Romex to power a tiny camera.

You may need a new transformer in order to have the Ring handle a beefier chime.

They use your current chime. That’s the whole appeal they just bolt on and work. (And allow police warrant less surveillance on an opt out basis)

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Comfortador posted:

So I moved in to a new house in November, now that the weather is nice I want to get this basketball hoop "up and running". Do I need to replace the rim too and get a combo? Or can I buy just a backboard? Is the mount standard? Sorry I know jack and poo poo about stuff like that ha

Thanks for any help/advice.



FWIW IDk poo poo about basketball but it seems to me that so long as your rim is round and perpendicular, looks like you just need a backboard. Here are the dimensions of a backboard https://www.dimensions.com/element/basketball-backboards I'd imagine you can cut one out of plywood and paint it and itll be good enough for general fun purposes.

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 01:27 on May 17, 2021

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
Is this an okay corner to cut?

I have a septic pump in my front yard. When the float gets to "turn on pump" levels during/shortly after a heavy rainstorm, it will trip the GFCI it is wired to. The GFCI and electrical box is new as I just replaced it hoping to get lucky as the previous one was >20 years old and badly corroded. This happens maybe once per month. I'd guess based on the circumstances that the wire sheathing is tired and water intrusion is allowing some leakage to ground. What I'd like to do is put in a standard outlet and some sort of efuse in case a real current leak happens. I plan to live here >10 years and this area is generally pretty lax on regulations.

Any advice on cutting this corner? (It's perfectly okay to so no, gently caress you, take the septic lid off and leak test the wires and dig that poo poo up if it fails. I really REALLY don't want to as hiring people around here sucks and takes me away from running my biz or eats my weekend.)

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Motronic posted:

Lets' start with why ground water is infiltrating your septic system. That's not okay.

Idk that it is, I’m assuming the rainwater is getting to the wiring not that the water is getting in the septic. No idea if that’s also true but it seems like a separate issue.

tater_salad posted:

NO full stop; fix your wiring it is unsafe.

A ground fault outlet / breaker trips when there is voltage 'leakage'. In the case like this it's very possible to energize your ground, this is not a good state to have anything operate in. Sure you have some water intrusion that ducks with your breaker, what happens when you have a low amperage leak and you go and grab the paper with bare feet and end up with a heart tickler?

Edit: the power that your pump needs to start/run is probably like 800-1300watts or 8-10 amps for a 1/3hp pump. So more than enough to kill you even with your efuse idea because you'd need to set it to at least 11-13 amps.

The breaker has never flipped and the difference in trips in a breaker vs GFCI is OOM in current. It seems to be 100% correlated with heavy rain. The pump runs normally without tripping the GFCI if it hasn’t rained for a month.

Anyway you’re probably still correct with the answer.

So how can I got about testing this? My though is to find some current limited AC output test device for dielectric breakdown and make sure the pump is off and power is off/disconnected. Then test leakage while the ground is dry. Wet it with a hose, if the load increases then there’s ground leakage. I used something similar once called a megger for some 440v motors, same thing here?

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

If it’s 100% during heavy rain, it’s clearly a intrusion issue somewhere.

You don’t gently caress with electrical when there is water involved. If you don’t know the answer to how to test it, my guess is you shouldn’t be fixing it yourself and you should be hiring someone.

:words: are you saying how I described it isn’t how it’d be done?

And I don’t want to fix it myself, it’s sitting in several inches of my poo poo. I’d like to have a clear idea of the problem.

Whatevs I’ll stick a multimeter between hot and ground when dry and see if it’s a real short. Spray the area down and try again. I know that won’t rule out breakdown but it may reveal a severe problem.

I figure someone here might have a better method that is more specific than this and can be done at home.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Motronic posted:

The common trade-sourced one for your area. Not one from a big box store.

I know nothing about them, why not one from the Lowes Depot?

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Motronic posted:

it's gonna suck to not have anyone who knows how to service something and/or nobody's got the parts so it's 3+ days before you can have hot water, heat, AC, a working well, a working toilet, a working shower, etc again.

Yea I never really thought about this, its a good point.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
I want to put up this deer fence for a garden: https://www.2thesunnyside.com/deer-fence-for-the-garden/



The dims are 45 feet x 13 feet. One side is fenced already, so I would only need to put up two 13' sections and one 45' section.

Is a fence contractor the right choice? Do they routinely do custom jobs like this or are they mostly about off the shelf installs of chain link and similar?

How about if I would also like them to pour down some rock, should I hire a landscaper to do that separately of the fence job?

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jul 25, 2021

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Motronic posted:

That looks really nice. But yeah.....that's more "carpenter" and less "fence contractor".


Spring Heeled Jack posted:

I bet if you showed that to a local fence company they could do it for you. Some 4x4s with 2x4 stretchers and the wire just looks like it’s sandwiched between 1x2s.

A lot of fences are certainly just premade panels nailed into 4x4s, but it just depends on what you want. I had a 3-board fence installed a few years ago with a wire mesh backer in it, not unlike the one you posted.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll take a look at both, and get some quotes.

Is getting a request for quote with pictures and a statement of work from a homeowner weird? I'm including some rough powerpoint drawings laid over photos of the property but should I require they prepare actual drawings?

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Nybble posted:

Is a belt drive garage opener worth replacing for an older chain opener?

We need to replace the door (no insulation, making the living room above it cold in the winter and hot in summer) but curious how much of an effect it will have for sound and operation.

I can't comment but why not just insulate the door? I put (IIRC) 1/2" polystyrene panels on my metal door and it made it way way way better. Adhered it with Loctite PL 300 Foamboard Adhesive.

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jul 28, 2021

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
PSA: This YouTube channel is pretty great for learning to fix your own AC. Around here AC issues in the summer start at $250, are next day during business hours and <50% chance the tech is sober. Because of that I've slowly taught myself how to diagnose and fix issues and have become my friends and families AC tech.

Here's an example of a video where I learned a new thing (how to test an in circuit capacitor)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OloCzaSPWE

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Inner Light posted:

My AC unit is on the roof of my condo. Do roof mounted units get dirty coils like ground based ones?

All the cleaning videos I've read use a hose to clean from the inside out, rinsing out a coil cleaner. Can I get away with just spraying coil cleaner on the outside, or will that do nothing / do harm? I can't get a hose to the roof.

Are you responsible for this kind of maintenance?

No idea how well they work but there are no-rinse cleaner coil sprays. That said, for an outdoor unit I'd want some kind of mechanical removal of the dirt and wouldn't trust the foam to carry it away. Haven't tried it but maybe a backpack/pump sprayer?

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Fallom posted:

Could you please post a picture? Did you have any issue with the joints between the door panels binding up?

This is something I hadn’t considered and I’m looking for ways to make my bonus room more usable

Not mine:


I have not had issues with binding, maybe because I only bonded them with 4 big dollops of the Loctite Foamboad in the corners of the foam and one in the middle.

Searching for pictures though I found this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Insulfoam-...lation/50244957

Which is the same idea but maybe even better.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Head Bee Guy posted:

How much should a replacement flowcenter in a geothermal system cost? This geothermal company is asking 7 large to:

• Disconnect and remove existing defective component
• Install new flow center
• Install new fittings to accommodate flow center
• Install new copper pipe & fittings & re-pipe water make up line
• Restart unit and check operation
• Labor during normal working hours

This seems steep, as these units only cost a grand.

Idk but def get a few quotes for that amount of money

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

TheWevel posted:

Oh yeah there's no doubt that happened but the whole point of using a closing attorney is that that money is supposed to go into escrow so all the parties get their money. I talked to my real estate agent and over the past year they fired this particular closing group so I guess I'm not the only closing they bungled. Thanks for reinforcing that I'm not crazy at least.

IANAL but drat this seems like what malpractice insurance is for

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
Today I persevered over my own idiocy and mowed my lawn again!

When my grandma passed in April, I inherited my grandparents ~2007 john deere lawn tractor which has been sitting (outside) at my cousins mower shop for prob 2 years. I used to mow my grandparents lawn with it a lot in college and was really happy to get it. I finally got my cousin to bring it to me after replacing some broken stuff, including the carb at some point, and paid them for the work. I have ~0.75 acres of lawn so I needed to not be push mowing badly. I started it up and it ran great.

Next day, on my first time out...

...I hit a stump that was hidden under the now very tall grass that I had forgotten about, bending the deck at the spindle mount enough to cause the blades to hit each other.
...then when I removed the blade spindle, every bolt head sheared off
...rather than wait for my new spindles to arrive I decided to drill a new bolt pattern in the aluminum spindle housing. I held the spindle shaft in a vise and held the aluminum body with my left hand, drilling with a cordless drill with my right. In the process of doing this the drill bit bound and the drill bit's chip flute managed to dig into my left thumb. You can easily see the fat in my thumb. Luckily, no tendon issues, just required a steristrip by my lovely wife. I get a tetanus shot next day.

So my thumb heals quite quickly. My new spindles, blades and a pulley get in from amazon and I get the deck back together. I level the blades with a combo of hammering the deck and a couple washers as shims. There some rust patches and holes, I give them some wire wheeling and a coat of anti-rust primer.

I go to start the mower to drive it on ramps to put my newly refurbished deck on and...
...gas is shooting out of the carburetor vent hole...
...disassemble my brand new carb and theres a nice ultra sticky layer of varnish, causing the float to stick. Also the fuel shut off solenoid is clearly sticking.
...clean them up put it all back together and...
...the choke return spring wont snap the choke closed anymore.
...I bend the little wire that pushes it open to decrease the friction and...

It finally works and runs! Mower deck went in and the yard has been mowed once again!

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

B-Nasty posted:

Owning a lawn tractor is like owning a motorcycle: you better get good at little repairs, or you better have a fat wallet to bring it to the shop when it needs it.

A recent fix of mine was a stupid little solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl that blocks fuel flow when deenergized. A pointless feature, that as best I can tell, is only to prevent backfires when turning it off. Mine broke, and it took me a few minutes to figure out why fuel wasn't entering the engine. For 2 seasons, I've been running with it disabled (zip tied open), because the nut to take it out requires a super thin wrench, and I'm too lazy to grind one of mine down. I have the part, but meh.

The B&S engine I've got is the same way. I had a thin wrench but if you didn't I bet you could unscrew the solenoid by hand. Be aware the carb bowl comes with it on mine.

But yea I'm seeing that. I've always said I'd only ever own electric but decent electric ride on mower start at 10X what I have in this thing even with the repairs. Luckily I can fix just about anything.

EDIT: Also it is now surging sometimes at about half throttle. But not every time, it will sometimes start and run perfectly. Seems to be more of an issue when cold. Idles well. Ugh.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

please knock Mom! posted:

Ripped out the old floor today and found a bunch of damp concrete. The culprit: a leaking boiler siphon, which the POs left leaking for ~1 year and the inspector didn’t notice

gently caress me

No new floors til this dries

I know it doesnt help you now but a FLIR that plugs into a phone is $250 and this would stick out like a sore thumb even on a low res device like that. Also useful for looking at electronics and for heating/cooling issues as long as the temp differential is big between outside and inside.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

please knock Mom! posted:

Oh yeah I’m an unprepared and stupid newbie to this all, and it’s pretty minor stuff, just annoyed by the previous owners who lived there for literal years and just

didn’t do anything about broken poo poo

hating the PO is a right of passage

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

please knock Mom! posted:



This wallpaper was what they picked

I just went through removing 30yo wallpaper and refinishing the walls. Is this something you're planning to DIY? If so, want me to write some notes on it? It is not a fun job. Kinda wish I had hired it out.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

please knock Mom! posted:

Nah dude, this poo poo is nasty. I bet I’ll accidentally gently caress up the plaster behind it if I do it myself, I’m way clumsy. I’m having it done currently by a handywoman recommended to me. She already did one wall perfectly.

This is the right choice.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

bird with big dick posted:

Your house gon burn down

This phallic pheasant may be correct

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Inner Light posted:

re: AC electricity chat -- Got it, I appreciate all that feedback and will deal with this. Sorry to monopolize the thread but hopefully it was good content. Have learned a ton here!

So you also had an upstream higher rated break flip before a lower rated one, yea? Sounds like you may have a bad breaker. A/C should have its own breaker that doesn’t render your house inop. If that didn’t flip before the house you got a problem.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Verman posted:

My buddy just had his offer accepted on a house. A tree fell on it the next day. The sellers dragged their feet on singing their end of the contract so nothing is official yet.

Lol

It was listed way too high, sat for a week and they lowered the price. It's also not in the most desirable areas. Sat for another month and no offers. He offers under asking but not a journal by any means, and rather than going with his offer to sell it and be done, they countered trying to squeeze as much cash out as possible on a house that clearly was priced wrong twice and still couldn't sell. My buddy was mostly interested in the large garage as he's a car guy.

Now they've got a huge loving tree that took out the front of the house and they get to deal with that. Getting an engineer to check the roof isn't hosed, someone to remove the tree, someone to come fix the damage etc and a final inspection. Inspection was supposed to be tomorrow. They also likely have to pay multiple months of their mortgage now from it sitting, the repairs, and then closing. If they had priced it competitively from the start, it would have closed already and been someone else's problem. Current owners bought in 2013 for 250 and didn't do much to it. There's two"bedrooms" that aren't legal despite being listed as three bedrooms. Listed it for almost 600, dropped to 550 and sat a month with zero offers, then got an offer for 500. They countered at 530, my buddy offered 515 with them covering closing costs.

Then the tree fell down. This is fun to watch from the sidelines. I tried telling my buddy that he's got the power in this situation and his agent should be threatening to walk and or possibly redo the deal since nothing was signed yet. Nobody was to blame for the tree, maybe an inspection could have pointed it out but doubtful. But any prospective buyer with knowledge of this accident will want documentation of the process that things were inspected and repaired properly.

I'd def walk from this, holy poo poo. A seller that DGAF and new, major damage that likely includes water damage? Count me the gently caress out.


Also shout out to Zillow: My mom just sold her house to Zillow for above market after fees and that poo poo was done in 30 days from "I want to list" to "cash in the bank". The smoothest transaction I've ever seen from myself and several friends buying houses.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Inner Light posted:

It was probably due to me being dumb, meaning.... the thermostat was commanding the A/C to run, blower motor was on, and that's when I reset the A/C breaker from tripped -> off -> on. My finger holding it to 'on' for a fraction of a second likely did not allow it to trip in time, and that's probably when the 100A breaker tripped. That's my guess which means the breaker didn't malfunction.

Might wanna get it replaced or looked at if an electrician is coming out. But yea holding a breaker on is really...something...ya know...decision making wise.


So totally unrelated but, thread, Motronic, I have historically gotten frustrated with this threads attitude that THE ELECTRON PIXIES WILL FIND A WAY TO YOUR DEATH.

I get it now. They will. If you don't know the pixies already, we won't help you learn is a justified attitude. I will no longer advice people on this subject.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
I once made an impromptu pump out of a shop vac, soda can and duct tape.

Why?
It was all we had, we were in BFE california and there was 1/2" of standing water in my wife's grandmas house.

Instructions:
-Arrange shop vac so the hose sucks from the deepest water spossible, but the basket/receptical is outside.
-Cut a flapper valve out of the coke cane by making a straight piece of aluminum to be covered completely (with room to spare) by the next steps hole pattern
-Drill 5 1/4" holes in a square hole pattern with one hole at the center.
-Apply duct tape (or screw it in if you have screws) such that the aluminum can acts as a flapper valve.
-If possible, use a timer to turn the shop vac off after 5 minutes of sucking for 20 minutes to allow the water to flow toward the deepest part
-If possible, turn on as many fans as possible + the A/C.

How it works:
The weight of the water will cause the flapper valve to leak. Once the water is insufficient to cause a leak, the valve will seal.

Outcome:
This made it so only a few foot patch under the flooded tile had standing water under it. Drywall was BAD but not completely destroyed. They had BAD water infiltration of their lowest floor (house on a hill) and this got by in a pinch to minimize water damage.

Lesson learned:
gently caress the bay area, CA. This house, that probably still has this problem, is currently valued at $1.2M. It is >45 minutes from SV and 2 hrs from SF.

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Sep 3, 2021

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
Helping a friend in the southwest fix up their 1940s era home. They have a garage that was built later but still several years ago and the quality is well…



What is the sheet metal behind the drywall in this pic

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Motronic posted:

Be aware that electric chainsaws, while great for some things, are not stopped by chainsaw chaps. I wouldn't be doing anything like climbing or out of position sawing with one.

Also, modern EFI saws start up great.

I suspect based on the design schematic that the power control board to my M18 chain saw has a current limit that will inhibit the motor if stall torque is the input. I don't know the speed of this inhibition but it is likely a few ms. This is needed for safety for this reason and also to not put a massive load on the batteries, potentially damaging them.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

EPICAC posted:

Does anyone here use a mechanical reel mower? Are they a pain to use? The yard at our new place is too small to justify anything else.

Are you already on a battery system that has a mower? I have a big yard and getting the $230 Ryobi 40V was a mistake but for a small yard it'd prob be great and is nice if you also already compost.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
I just decided to put in 90 feet of fencing myself for exactly this reason. Sent out for 5 quotes, got three calls, one showed up to eval the property then ghosted.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Hadlock posted:

https://www.amazon.com/Aukora-100-Watt-Equivalent-Activated-Security/dp/B07DXMF23S/

Or just invest in Google home/Alexa; I've literally forgotten where most of my light switches are in my house, light switch problems are a foreign concept to me at this point

Have you used these particular lights? I've been thinking about buying them but feel like Amazons ratings of off brand poo poo arent trustworthy at all.

EDIT: Yea NVM the recent reviews are like 35% 1 star ratings saying they didnt last.

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Oct 2, 2021

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Hadlock posted:

No, I'm a 100% Philips hue house, I've never had an issue with their stuff, that's the better long term play. When you're getting off the couch you just say "ok Google, turn on basement lights" and then they're on by the time you get over there. Then at the end of the night you just say "turn off all lights"

Nah, I'm good.

I'm mostly worried that Philips probably doesnt have enough skin in the game to keep every model of base station and accessory updated in perpetuity. They probably arent willing to dedicate a few million/year in potential profits to a strong security team and test org.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

King Hong Kong posted:

Going back to old house asbestos chat, there is a potential future small job that if I do I will want a HEPA vacuum for (in addition to PPE) as a precaution but was wondering if there was a recommendation for a decent one that is not extremely expensive.

skybolt_1 posted:

I did this but technically it doesn't qualify as a HEPA vac unless the drum is sealed. So I bought some 3/8" black rubber weatherstripping and laid a gasket around the drum. Takes more effort to latch but it's close enough to the certified $350 version for me.

This is my suggestion as well, except I've used the thick A/C duct tape. Not sure which is better tho.

Also, if theres a window for it I use a fan to exhaust particles outside.

Also I'm not a doctor and know nothing about the actual risks of aesbestos, just kinda doing what I can.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

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Whoreson Welles posted:

Keep up the chatter and hopefully we can all avoid being the next Grover.

If only I should be so lucky as to have that many outlets.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Glumwheels posted:

I want to clean ours dryer vent as well as our hvac ducts. We just moved in and I want to start fresh, we have so much dust every day. Need to also upgrade the furnace filters too.

Does the thread have any recommendations on home security/camera systems with low monthly monitoring fees? It seems the options are we pay upfront costs to purchase equipment (ring, simplisafe, blink) or we go with a national company like protection1 (we had this before). Monthly monitoring is cheaper with the first option and more expensive with the second so leaning more towards the first. Not sure which of those is reliable and has good equipment (sensors and such). I’m leaning towards ring because we already have the doorbell.

Edit: The previous owners had installed Insteon Outdoor cameras but didn’t leave the hub. Insteon no longer supports the system or the app. I tried to connect one to my PC by connecting it to the router and running their old software but didn’t recognize it. If I could I’d buy a hub off eBay and see if I can get it working but not sure if it’s worth it.

I'm happy with my Ring's relative lack of nuisance triggering compared tot he harbor freight kit I had previously. I like that the only big security stuff theyve had was people using lovely passwords and not having 2FA on by default.

That said they've also been pretty okay with law enforcement historically, now they give you more options tho.

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CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

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Glumwheels posted:

We’ve had a lot of false alarms due to our own errors, one leading to the cops being called because it triggered the silent alarm and we didn’t know it. I had to take that “class” as my first strike to prevent losing the license. Is ring pretty good at calling you right away and recognizing it was a false alarm if you disarm it quickly? My one complaint is the door/window sensor seem large but that’s the case if you don’t hardwire the system.

I only use the cameras. We have some very mild security threats due to occupation and live where there are basically no home invasions.

We have sufficient cameras and lighting that someone breaking in would have to be pretty blasé about getting caught.

Hard to imagine needing a system that auto dials the police, that’s rough.

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