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Very nice! Of course you'll be getting a well-staged camera phone picture, right? Right?
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Jun 5, 2017 18:01
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Waffle House posted:Very nice! Of course you'll be getting a well-staged camera phone picture of the ensuing burnout, right? I think you accidentally a few words 
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Jun 5, 2017 20:16
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Raluek posted:I think you accidentally a few words Your optimism is admirable. I should probably get an alignment before too long, although before doing that I should determine if I need new suspension components up front. I know for a fact that the rear shocks have gone to crap, but I'm more concerned about the state of the ball joints and such up front.
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Jun 5, 2017 20:28
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Drove to the Z Car Club meeting tonight. Engine was great, the rear end was a little loud but it seemed to get quieter after a bit. Things it needs now:
Edit: where do you upload pictures now that imgur apparently doesn't let you upload from a phone without installing the app. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jun 9, 2017 |
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Jun 9, 2017 04:41
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Install the app? 
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Jun 9, 2017 14:27
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Larrymer posted:Install the app? gently caress that, I'll just find a new image host instead. Meanwhile, uploaded from my desktop: 
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Jun 9, 2017 15:32
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Pham Nuwen posted:gently caress that, I'll just find a new image host instead. IDGI. Go right into the gallery and upload it just the same and click the same amount of buttons. Who cares if it's another app? If you find of a non lovely free host, by all means let me know. Imgur isn't as good as it was but it still isn't bad IMO.
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Jun 9, 2017 19:14
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You can still upload to imgur on mobile without the app. Upload button in the top right corner, exit out of the ad for their app using the x in the top right of the ad and go to town.
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Jun 10, 2017 04:42
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Cop Porn Popper posted:You can still upload to imgur on mobile without the app. Upload button in the top right corner, exit out of the ad for their app using the x in the top right of the ad and go to town. Am I missing something obvious?  
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Jun 10, 2017 06:25
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Go to the mobile site, m.imgur.com, and click the cloud in the top right corner.  
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Jun 10, 2017 06:56
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Go to the mobile site, m.imgur.com, and click the cloud in the top right corner. Apparently they serve different pages to android and ios user agents, because the screenshot I posted is the same url. The address bar only shows the domain&tld until you touch it
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Jun 10, 2017 07:47
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Raluek posted:Apparently they serve different pages to android and ios user agents, because the screenshot I posted is the same url. The address bar only shows the domain&tld until you touch it Hold down refresh in Safari and choose "Request Desktop Site".
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Jun 10, 2017 11:52
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I use this third party imgur uploading app. That's all it does. No ads, no weird permissions. It's great. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.moosen.imgur&hl=en
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Jun 10, 2017 19:11
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Thanks for that, I didn't mind having the official app installed, but I'd rather have just the upload.
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Jun 10, 2017 20:11
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So image host chat aside, I've got this noise at the rear end. It seems to become noticeable around 15mph and is present while accelerating, holding speed, or slowing down. It's pretty high pitched, not piercing but definitely a source of consternation. It seems like there shouldn't be too many possibilities: diff or wheel bearings, right? I just realized I haven't lubed the u-joint and I'll get that done before I drive any more. Given the description of the noise, any ideas what's going on? I didn't really do anything on the rear end of the drivetrain except change the diff oil.
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Jun 10, 2017 23:20
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Probably the diff, wheel bearings tend to be lower pitched and you can change the intensity by swerving side to side (unless both are equally smoked). I'm of the opinion that you worry far too much, it's a just a rugged old nissan and will long outlive you provided you don't start doing stupid poo poo to it.
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Jun 11, 2017 06:22
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Slavvy posted:Probably the diff, wheel bearings tend to be lower pitched and you can change the intensity by swerving side to side (unless both are equally smoked). I'm of the opinion that you worry far too much, it's a just a rugged old nissan and will long outlive you provided you don't start doing stupid poo poo to it. I'm happy to drive it till it dies but the whine is real obnoxious
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Jun 11, 2017 06:26
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On the other hand a diff seizing at highway speed can cause you to have a rather violent wreck. It's probably just going to scream at you until you decide to park it for 10 years and pass it down to someone else for 500 bucks again
orange juche fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Jun 11, 2017 |
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Jun 11, 2017 07:51
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You could do what 99% of car owners do. orange juche posted:On the other hand a diff seizing at highway speed can cause you to have a rather violent wreck. That's probably more of a concern. But there's enough of those around that I can't see it costing a fortune to swap the rear... right?  Slavvy posted:will long outlive you provided you don't start doing stupid poo poo to it. He's not wearing pajamas while driving, this automatically triples his IQ (as a minimum). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jun 11, 2017 |
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Jun 11, 2017 08:35
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You could do what 99% of car owners do. I'm dumb, Datsun 280zx's in the US didn't come stock with an LSD, but it was an option, so who knows what the gently caress you got in the back of it. OBX (ebay chinese knockoff poo poo) probably has an aftermarket helical LSD that will work in it though. I see some rebuild kits with bearings and gaskets for ~$4-500.  I'd ride on it until it became really sketchy, you just put oil in it, so it *should* be ok for a decent while yet. (I accept no responsibility if it explodes and sends you into a ditch) Zhome.com posted:
Some more stuff I fished up regarding rear diffs for Z cars. orange juche fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Jun 11, 2017 |
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Jun 11, 2017 08:47
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^^^ This guy knows what's up. The long-nose R200 is pretty much the same thing across cars, just make sure you swap your driveshaft input flange and axles onto the new diff. They're not *that* complicated to rebuild, but a rear end is a huge pain to drop out of the car; you definitely need a jack and some stands. I know exactly what high-pitched whirr you're talking about, I think. If you do end up rebuilding it yourself, it's a good time to replace all those worn bushings in the car-rear end that cause the butt sag you talked about. Fire is fun, if you do.
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Jun 12, 2017 07:17
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Ignore my post about diffs exploding and making you wreck, that can happen with a 4wd locking diff system, I rode through what happens when the front diff in a jeep grenades while moving, and it is not fun. LSDs just go POP and grind and you wheel it over to the side of the road and call a tow truck. That's not fun either though because once they go, you will be looking at buying a whole new diff instead of just replacing the bearings and changing the oil. Also, easy way to check for LSD on a 280ZX, a finned rear cover. If not, it's not an LSD and won't be as bad to work on, if it does, god be with you.
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Jun 12, 2017 07:34
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orange juche posted:Ignore my post about diffs exploding and making you wreck, that can happen with a 4wd locking diff system, I rode through what happens when the front diff in a jeep grenades while moving, and it is not fun. LSDs just go POP and grind and you wheel it over to the side of the road and call a tow truck. No finned rear cover. If it won't explode, I'll just drive the drat thing for now. It was very slightly overfilled (checked this morning) but I'd be awfully surprised if that 50cc of extra oil was causing any problems. This evening, I went ahead and threw in an aftermarket rear view mirror that will tide me over until I can find a nice red replacement for the original:  I also tore off the rubber bullshit that runs down the sides of the cars... I'm leaving the rubber poo poo on the front and rear bumpers but since it was already missing from the doors I went ahead and removed it immediately ahead of and behind the doors too. You can see the black rubber poo poo I'm talking about in this pic:  Ahead of the front wheel and behind the rear wheel is staying on. I blew a bunch of dust out from behind the right side mirror but it still doesn't work. I'd just as soon rip these off and put mirrors up on the fenders in the Japanese style, so now that I have a rear-view again I'm not too worried about the passenger mirror. Edit: Anyone got tips for removing the nasty thick rock-hard glue that was holding on those rubber bits? It kinda feels like it'll just gunk up sandpaper. And for cleaning up oxidized paint in preparation for a rattlecan job? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 03:26
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Get you a heat gun, son.
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Jun 13, 2017 08:03
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A steam cleaner and a soft plastic putty knife work wonders for goop. It takes a little bit longer than a heat gun but the results are much better.
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Jun 13, 2017 12:05
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3M makes "eraser" wheels for removing stickers and adhesive that would probably work. edit: https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=3m+eraser+wheel edit again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AscVrV6E_kg Darchangel fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 16:22
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Darchangel posted:3M makes "eraser" wheels for removing stickers and adhesive that would probably work. Man, 3M makes some awesome poo poo.
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Jun 16, 2017 14:37
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Larrymer posted:Man, 3M makes some awesome poo poo. Starting with Scotch tape and Post-It notes. Seems like if it involves sticky of some sort, 3M's got you covered.
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Jun 19, 2017 20:13
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I've been driving the car to work occasionally and it seems to do fine. Kind of loud at the rear end when I'm going over 35-ish but that's all. I'm currently trying to decide what I want to do for painting. Even on a Midget, the Rustoleum roll-on paintjob took forever, so I'm leaning toward rattlecan. Valspar black or white gloss is $1/can at Lowes, but those are also the most boring colors. I'm definitely thinking of adding stripes or chevrons of some sort, though, so maybe black with orange and red stripes in an 80s style?
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Jul 25, 2017 20:17
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Pham Nuwen posted:I've been driving the car to work occasionally and it seems to do fine. Kind of loud at the rear end when I'm going over 35-ish but that's all. If you had an air compressor, I would say buy a $12 Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Even that cheap a gun will spray a ton better than any spray can, ever. I sprayed the top half of my '90 RX-7 with Rustoleum satin black, thinned with mineral spirits, through one, and it worked great (failed clear coat and surface rust was irritating me, and I was out of work, so had the time).    I got a few runs from not being careful, but it sprayed easily. Failing that, you can get decent results from a spray can, but it's a lot of work. Light, multiple coats, and it will take a *lot* of cans. edit: even for a quick and dirty paint job, do your prep work. At the very least, scuff everything with a Scotchbrite, and wipe it all down with paint thinner or "pre-cleaner". Nothing makes a half-assed paint job look it's absolute worst like the paint bubbling up and falling off because of grease, dirt, and no sanding. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 23:44
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Darchangel posted:If you had an air compressor, I would say buy a $12 Harbor Freight HVLP gun. Even that cheap a gun will spray a ton better than any spray can, ever. I sprayed the top half of my '90 RX-7 with Rustoleum satin black, thinned with mineral spirits, through one, and it worked great (failed clear coat and surface rust was irritating me, and I was out of work, so had the time). Yeah I really would prefer to use a HVLP gun but I don't have an air compressor, nobody I know has an air compressor, and between the added expense and the fact that I'd have to figure out somewhere for it in my overcrowded garage, I'm not sure if it'll happen. Still, I should check craigslist and maybe set up an alert. I got some experience in prep work when I did the Midget's paint job, and I guess I'll apply the same lessons here. I'm wondering about marine topcoat, because it's apparently meant to be rolled or brushed on in only one or two coats. Also it seems like the $1/can Valspar stuff isn't really suitable for much beyond touching up your mailbox... I'd hoped it was cheap due to economies of scale but it sounds like it's just cheap because it's bad.
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Jul 25, 2017 23:53
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Pham Nuwen posted:Yeah I really would prefer to use a HVLP gun but I don't have an air compressor, nobody I know has an air compressor, and between the added expense and the fact that I'd have to figure out somewhere for it in my overcrowded garage, I'm not sure if it'll happen. Still, I should check craigslist and maybe set up an alert. Obtaining a 50 gallon, 5 HP air compressor opened up a lot of opportunity. Mine lives in a little shed attached to the side of the house. That said, my dad, back in the day, painted several cars with his Montgomery Wards 10-gallon 2HP horizontal, with an old-school Binks high-pressure suction gun. It just had to be done in bursts. And yeah, the $1/can spray paint is bad. It's usually so thin it takes 1000 coats to get a solid color, and then it runs.
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Jul 26, 2017 00:13
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Yeah, It's worth getting a compressor. I bought one 10 years ago mainly because my non mobile project cars were always getting flat tyres. I often used it just for blowing out dusted over fans and computer stuff too. It was useful enough for those purposes I'm always glad I had one. Then I bought a cheap HVLP gun and painted a new plastic bumper that had to be replaced because my ex smashed one of my old cars. That job meant the compressor paid for itself. I never bothered with any air tools, just the compressed air and spray gun was great. But this year I had to do suspension work and got a cheap rattle gun, it would have been impossible to do without one as ball joints would spin around with the nylon lock nut so brute force was useless and only a rattle gun could have done it, and air rattle guns are really cheap since everyone has switched to 18V so you can get really good ones s/h.
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Jul 28, 2017 16:44
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Harbor Freight has a sale, 28 gallon compressor for $150... not sure if I trust a Chinesium pressure tank though.
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Jul 28, 2017 19:47
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I'm on my second no name Chinese compressor, sold the first one when I moved and had no room for it. They work, they're worth the money. Haven't had the pressure tank rupture either, but I've only been getting the small compressors.
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Jul 30, 2017 02:01
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Update: No update. It's not painted, but I've been driving it a bit. Just wanted to hold the thread out of archives while I can remember.
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Oct 1, 2017 00:45
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For a variety of reasons I didn't drive the Datsun for a couple months, and then when I went to start it again in early November it didn't run very well. Kind of rough idle, and when I hit the accelerator it'll often stop firing completely for a second, sputter for a bit, and finally start to increase RPM. I replaced the coil, since it's the only part of the ignition system I hadn't changed out yet (I did the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs last year). It's still the same. I pulled a couple plugs and they're wet with fuel. Things I suspect:
Maybe I finally ought to just order a drat fuel pressure gauge so I can tell I'm getting enough fuel...
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Dec 2, 2017 23:21
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Is it one of those FPRs that is connected to vacuum, where a failure mode is sucking gas through the vacuum line?
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Dec 3, 2017 00:11
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Raluek posted:Is it one of those FPRs that is connected to vacuum, where a failure mode is sucking gas through the vacuum line? Just checked, no gas in the vacuum line. One end was cracked, so I trimmed that off and tried again, but it still ran poorly. I made a video but of course engine noise never comes across well in videos; you can sort of hear what I'm talking about at the very beginning and the very end of the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYm58cFWOWI Edit: Ya know, I have a vacuum tester... I guess I'll hook that up tomorrow if I have some time, see how leaky my poo poo is? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Dec 3, 2017 |
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Dec 3, 2017 00:59
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Replaced a bunch of vacuum lines a while back and saw maybe minor improvements, forgot to try the vacuum tester because I always forget to do what I say I'm gonna do. Tightened up the bolts where the exhaust connects to the exhaust manifold just to be safe. Today I hooked up the vacuum tester and saw an idle vacuum of about 14 inches. If I goosed the throttle a little, it would drop to 0 and once or twice the engine seemed to make a pop kind of noise and the vacuum appeared to drop below 0. Gently increasing throttle causes the vacuum to drop to 5-10ish and sorta fluctuate as I continue to add throttle, but it stayed below 14. When I let off the throttle, vacuum bumped up to 20ish and dropped down to 14 again. I replaced another bit of vacuum line in the cruise control system (which appears to involve three separate components all wired together with vacuum hose), disconnecting the negative battery lead in the process. When I reconnected it, the engine ran better and the vacuum levels were more sensible: 15 at idle, drops to 2ish when I goose it with no popping, doesn't drop much below 10 when I start throttling up gently and rises steadily to a 14ish as I add throttle. I don't know if it will continue to run ok, we'll see I guess. Edit: same 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jan 1, 2018 |
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Dec 31, 2017 23:48
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