|
If I really want a SFF case but don't want to be ridiculously constrained with regards to physical building space, upgrade options or potentially high thermals/noise, and am also going to wait until the next gen GPUs come out before I build a computer, would it make sense for me to order an NCase M1 now just to have it on hand whenever I'm finally ready? Because it seems like the best combination between form, function and is currently available for preorders to be posted at the end of the month.
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2020 23:15
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 11:54 |
|
|
Although I love some of the smaller 10~ litre cases, their price, availability, difficulty to build in and temperature considerations are making me lean towards the NR200 as a happy balance between form and function. At the moment I can only see listings for it on US websites, anyone know if/when it's likely to become available in the EU?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2020 16:35
|
|
|
Nr200p case came back in stock where I am and I managed to snag one of the last 2, to be delivered next week. I don't have any components to put in it yet, they'll be purchased at the end of the year, but I'm very excited to be back in the PC game and building something totally opposite to my first (and last) build when I was a teenager and bigger = better so I bought some huge silver tower monstrosity. I was really tempted by some of the higher end SFF cases, specifically the ncase m1 as it's actually available with some regularity, but I figured as I haven't built a PC for years it would make more sense to get something a bit larger and more forgiving to build in then if I wanna shrink things down in the future I can do that whenever.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2020 11:04
|
|
|
I'd like some advice for cooling in my nr200p build, which will be a 3700X with a FUMA 2 and a 3070 or 3080. I don't care a huge amount about peak optimum thermals/noise but if I need to poke around and adjust fan curves or whatever and it won't be too complicated I'm happy to do that. Basically I want a solution that's fairly simple and I can just leave it to do its thing once I've set everything up. I'm not interested in AIOs initially although I got the nr200 because there's plenty of scope if I decide I want to gently caress around with that in the future. At the moment I'm planning on installing the GPU in the standard layout, with the two preinstalled fans at the top as exhaust and buying two Noctua A12x25 fans to install at the bottom as intake. I'll use the ventilated side panel because I'm not interested in any RGB stuff or seeing the innards, unless someone tells me the glass panel is much better for thermals or noise. Can other people with this case tell me if that's gonna be good enough, or is there some other setup that's much better?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2020 18:36
|
|
|
Thanks all for the advice and links!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2020 00:23
|
|
|
B-Mac posted:Noctua A12x25 (2) Bottom Intake 80% Fan Speed (1670 RPM) Lmao I wondered how you were fitting two bottom fans underneath the 3090 and did a lol when I saw your picture Re: my cooling questions the other day, I watched a bunch of that guy's videos that were linked and it seems the FUMA 2 doesn't have room for the rear top fan that comes with my nr200p. Also he found that bottom fans were of mostly negligible benefit, so I've decided to get the Noctua U12A instead as that does have headroom for both top fans, and run them all as exhaust. Then depending on what 3070/80 I get and what clearance I have I can look at getting some intake fans for the bottom if I'm not happy with thermals/noise.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2020 14:57
|
|
|
ijyt posted:I know, I’m wondering about the difference in thermals between the vented panel and the glass one. I'm pretty sure optimumtech has covered that, and it depends on what orientation you're going with for the GPU more than anything. From the builds and testing I've seen on YouTube it seems you can make most builds work though given how much flexibility there is for different cooling solutions in the case. But the vented panel is by its very nature going to be the best for thermals most of the time. My nr200p just arrived today, I figured it was worth the extra money to have additional options in the future, but I'll probably not be using any of them for my first build in it. Feels like an excellent quality case though and I'm excited to actually get the components to fill it.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2020 20:28
|
|
|
abraham linksys posted:I guess the one weird thing w the NR200P is it comes with two 120mm top fans instead of the 120mm top fan & 92mm rear fan that the NR200 comes with. I have no idea why this is the case, but it just seems goofy to spend $20 more for stuff I don't need, then have to go spend more money to get a 92mm fan (since I'm pretty sure two top fans isn't exactly ideal airflow?) The 92mm fan does basically gently caress all, dual top fan exhaust is the way to go in the nr200 (if the second fan fits over your cooler, if not put it as bottom intake) The other way to look at it is the nr200p is a little bit more money in return for many more building options, even if you don't want to use them right now
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2020 01:36
|
|
|
There are no front fans in the nr200, and testing shows that a rear 90mm fan in addition to the CPU cooler doesn't improve cooling and in some cases impedes it. Honestly though it sounds like you're stressing and overthinking this. With a Ryzen 3700X and a 3070 you'll be fine with that cooler and a couple of case fans as top exhaust. It's a good case for temps generally. If you want the absolute best air cooling for your CPU in that case, get the Noctua NH-U12A (which just barely fits with the mesh side panel), while still allowing the two full fans on top to be used as exhaust. You could then throw in some bottom case fans as intake if you want to get silly but I think it's overkill for most people.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2020 16:28
|
|
|
Fuma 2 blocks the back top case fan, which isn't the worst thing in the world but something to consider.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2020 16:53
|
|
|
VorpalFish posted:Got the nr200 Where are you planning on putting 8 fans in the nr200
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2020 18:47
|
|
|
Most arrangements work and the difference is a couple of degrees between different configurations, but from watching a lot of people way more meticulous than me testing these things, 2x exhaust fans on top, cpu cooler exhausting out the back, extra fans as intake on the bottom if you want. This top video channel goes into way more detail than you'd ever need and the guy has a weird voice but he's meticulous in his testing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcZxU_wlhB0 This video shows that most builds are generally fine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8k1B2tai1yg Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Oct 19, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 15:29
|
|
|
The rear fan mount is only 90mm and the two fans that come with the nr200p are 120mm so that's out. I think 280mm AIOs have to go on the side panel, so you could do that with the two case fans as a bottom intake and top exhaust.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 16:01
|
|
|
One solution I saw with the nr200 was routing some of the cables through the area behind the front panel where the two ssd bays are, dunno how useful that'll be until I get some poo poo to put in my own case but I've seen some clean builds online using that method
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2020 21:36
|
|
|
Shrimp or Shrimps posted:What air cooler is that? I've been planning on my next rig being in an NR200 but will be using an ATX PSU cage (3d print files are available on CM website) and I'm not sure how that interferes with an AIO / if I even want an AIO. That's the Scythe Fuma 2 which by all accounts is one of the best options for the nr200.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2020 08:38
|
|
|
Hi thread, here's another nr200p owner wanting a sanity check. I've got my nr200p and FE 3080 and am just waiting on a 5600x to pull the trigger on the rest of my build. I don't mind tinkering but when it's all put together I don't particularly want to gently caress about with trying a million different cooling configurations or messing around with fan curves to find the peak optimal whatever. I'd just be happy with a good level of sound/thermal performance. With that in mind, I was thinking about getting the NH-u12A because it just barely allows the full size top rear fan, leaving the two stock fans as exhaust out the top and having the u12A exhausting out the back. Then I would see how acceptable the performance was and if I wasn't happy I could think about getting a couple of Noctua A12x25 for the bottom as intakes. Obviously in this configuration I'd have to use the mesh side panel which is fine. However I'm now considering the Fuma Scythe 2 because it's as good if not better performance-wise while being 40% cheaper. It's also a little shorter which allows for the tempered glass side panel, should I want to use that for a change. This means I'd have to lose the top rear full-size fan, which led me down a rabbit hole of considerations. Could I swap the 15mm fan from the Scythe with the stock 25mm rear top fan? Would that be inadvisable because of the noise from the stock fan being used on the CPU cooler? Should I just set aside the stock case fans regardless and go for Noctuas for their quietness? Should I stick with the Fuma 2 in stock configuration, buy a slim 15mm case fan for the top exhaust, then use the stock 25mm fan I took from the top and use that as a bottom intake? I've watched lots of videos and I don't feel any clearer although I know I'm fretting over minor differences, as long as I have a decent CPU cooler I know the nr200 does well enough with the FE 30x0 cards. Someone please sort me out.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2020 16:20
|
|
|
Thanks for the heads up. I found a file for 3D printed pins someone specifically designed for the slim noctua 12x15 fans in the nr200 so I might see if I can get someone I know with a 3D printer to help me out, because I'm also looking at the Gigabyte Aorus board. I think I'll go with the Fuma 2 exhausting out the back, buy an a12x15 and a12x25 for the top as exhaust and move the two stock case fans to bottom intake. If they're too noisy I can always leave them out or swap them for a12x25s later.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2020 18:07
|
|
|
It's the FE 3080 so I'm good there.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2020 18:25
|
|
|
frytechnician posted:Thanks for the recommendations earlier thread, I have just received my NR200 and my power supply unit will hopefully be shipped later this week. Plenty of people recommend the Fuma 2 in the nr200, as it has similar cooling performance to the Noctua NH-U12A while being €40 cheaper. The only problem is that with certain ITX boards (including the best b550 option, the aorus pro) the processor slot is placed a little higher which means with the Fuma 2 you can't fit a 25mm fan at the top rear position. This guy goes into way more analytical detail about cooling configurations in the nr200 than you would ever need, if you're interested.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2020 22:36
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nyV4J1n7YQ Here's a useful video for anyone building in the nr200 and having trouble with cable management.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2020 17:34
|
|
|
I'm also collating the components for my build and wanted to order everything in one go for the ease of returns reason but realised that half of the poo poo I want is in high demand (apart from the obvious 5600x and the 3080) so have similarly been grabbing things from whatever shops I can. I had an SF750 on my list but it's seemingly out of stock everywhere that ships to me in the EU and some websites are saying they won't get more stock until next year, so I went for the SF600 I originally wanted which will be perfectly fine for a 5600x and a 3080. Got a good black Friday deal on the RAM and storage, my mobo and Fuma 2 are coming with the PSU sometime next week, I luckily secured the 3080 FE at the beginning of the month and I've had the monitor and case a while. Just f5ing on that fuckin 5600x now, I've had a few opportunities but I refuse to pay €380 at the store which had them on sale for €310 originally then realised they could make a quick buck.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2020 12:25
|
|
|
And gets in the way of a lot of the best tower coolers that fit in there
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2020 13:49
|
|
|
Resonance22 posted:Speaking of SFX PSUs, anyone have opinions on the Cooler Master SFXs? They're new which is why you can't find too many reviews but there's no reason to doubt the brand, and 650W is plenty for your 3080 and 5600x. I wanted a Corsair SF750 for my build (with the same CPU and GPU as you) but it looked like it was out of stock until some undetermined time in January on every site so I saved a bit of money and went for the SF600. OptimumTech did testing and even with an OCed 10900k and 3080 the SF600 never tripped. Machines & more has a few videos reviewing and comparing those coolermaster PSUs to Corsair ones if you're interested.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 9, 2020 16:10
|
|
|
Yes with a capital Y, never reuse modular PSU cables except if it's exactly the same make and model.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2020 14:31
|
|
|
I wanted to share the fruits of my weekend's labours (and, realistically, the last 6 months of learning, planning and stock chasing)   Still a few more cosmetic changes to make, such as getting a monitor arm, cable tidying around the table and moving the PC onto a lower table to clear up desk space, but I'm very happy with my efforts, especially given this is the first PC I've built in 15 years. Please excuse the sad lily, and thanks to anyone itt who offered help or advice. Case: nr200p GPU: 3080 FE CPU: 5600x Cooler: Fuma 2 Mobo: Gigabyte b550i AORUS ITX RAM: Crucial Ballistix 32GB Storage: WD SN550 PSU: Corsair SF600 Monitor: LG 27GL850-B Keyboard: Logitech g513 Mouse: Logitech G Pro Mousepad: Aukey Fans: Arctic p12, noctua A12x15
|
|
#
¿
Dec 13, 2020 19:39
|
|
|
I don't know much about temps and cooling etc but I'm very happy with my nr200 and 3080 FE. When I check HWinfo after I've been gaming a while I haven't seen either CPU or GPU go much above 70. I ran Heaven on full blast for 30 minutes and the highest the GPU got was 75, and after running various Cinebench renders for a while the CPU didn't get into the 70s. This is with a 5600x, 3080FE, the two stock fans as bottom intakes, the Scythe Fuma 2 fans set to rear intake, and an a12x15 and Arctic p12 as top exhausts.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2020 20:02
|
|
|
horchata posted:Does the corsair 3000 series 12 pin power supply cable worth with the sfx psus? Yes. However it's 60cm long, which is a lot of cable to have to tuck away. In my nr200 I think I'm happier with the adapter and shorter standard sfx power cables (which are tucked behind the front panel) than I would be with the much longer but direct 12 pin cable. If they make a short sfx 12 pin version then I might consider that. HappyCapybaraFamily posted:I don't quite understand which cable you're referring to, and the conventional wisdom is to never use a cable with a different model PSU, even if it's from the same manufacturer, else you risk destroying components. They're talking about the 12 pin cable available to buy on Corsair's website for directly connecting to FE 30x0 nvidia GPUs, rather than having to use the 2x8 pin adapter that comes with the card. It's compatible with all modular type 3 and 4 corsair PSUs which means all the SFX line. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jan 5, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2021 19:07
|
|
|
ephori posted:I'm using a 3080 with an SF600 with zero issues. Me too. I had wanted an SF750 but when I was assembling the build last month it looked like new stock was a month away (about now), so settled for the SF600. I checked again yesterday out of curiosity and looks like they're out of stock again until at least March so yeah just get the SF600 and don't fret.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2021 00:13
|
|
|
FuzzySlippers posted:CL530 in too. It's a 3700x... 70c+ while gaming. Haven't noticed any downclocking but that's awfully hot. As other poster said, with a low profile cooler in a tight case like that, those are absolutely normal temps. Ryzens don't start thermal throttling until 85c anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2021 09:59
|
|
|
Has anyone else using the gigabyte b550i aorus pro had their Bluetooth up and disappear? Just happened to me, I did a bunch of googling and tried reinstalling drivers but windows just straight up refused to see any Bluetooth hardware whatsoever. Eventually I found the same issue in some amazon reviews, which was solved by disconnecting the power and making sure the PSU capacitors are empty before turning everything back on. Weird one. I'm replacing the board anyway, because neither the BIOS flash nor the clear CMOS jumper work, and I have an issue where when I boot the PC first thing in the morning half of the time the fans spin up but it doesn't boot, so I have to turn it off at the PSU and back on and then it always works the second time. When I turn the PC off and on through the day it works fine, it only has issues when it's been powered off for a while. I'm still getting the same model to replace it, because if everything worked it would be great, and I've already got my cables managed to exactly where they need to be for the various headers on the board so really don't want to have to tear the whole thing apart, more than I already need to to get the mobo out.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2021 23:56
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I'm gonna do some reading and try to figure out parts, wiring, and all the necessary stuff when making a small build, but if anyone has any more recommendations, it'd be helpful. Given your budget, case and stated goals I'd say it pretty much builds itself. The motherboard is $180 and you should be aiming for an RTX 3060 at $320 whenever that comes out/is obtainable. That would get you to ~$1060. It would be 4k 'capable', but you'd have to heavily lean on DLSS and drop settings to get decent framerates with a 3060.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2021 10:53
|
|
|
LODGE NORTH posted:I think I've more or less decided on a 3070. I think it'll be "easier" to get one and wouldn't push the budget up too much and with the goal of having really solid PC performance, I think it's worth it. Yeah if you can stretch the budget a 3070 is absolutely worth it. Regarding the CPU, at 4k the 3600 is only a couple % slower than the 5600x, while being a full $100 cheaper. Any serious upgrades in a few years will necessitate a new mobo/cpu/ram for DDR5 anyway, the 3600 would absolutely tide you over until whenever you need to upgrade. The nr200 is extremely forgiving when it comes to cooling. Get a decent CPU air cooler (for a 3600 anything over $50 would be overkill, even the stock cooler is perfectly adequate but runs loud), and a couple of extra case fans. Run two as top exhaust and depending on the thickness of your GPU, two as bottom intake and you'll be totally fine. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jan 13, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2021 23:05
|
|
|
I'm sure basically everyone ITT is subscribed to Optimum Tech on YouTube but in case you're not, and you have a Zen 3 CPU: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfkrp25dpQ0 I'm a newcomer to PC building having just built my first PC in 15 years so I was a bit nervous about loving around with undervolting (especially given my weird issues with my mobo that you might have read about in the building thread that necessitated dismantling the whole loving thing to get at the CMOS battery) but I followed the advice he gave in this video, and also the other video he did a few months back about undervolting the 3080, and now my system is running a good few degrees cooler in the nr200 with basically no effect on performance so it's definitely worth doing. I've even tested it out with the glass side panel and the GPU is still hovering around 70C, and with the way I've routed the FE power adapter around the bottom fan I can now see the little GEFORCE RTX logo lit up and it makes me happy and possibly considering getting some RGB RAM next time and oh god is this how it starts A side note, does anyone have any recommendations for software to measure how many Watts the system is running at?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2021 16:38
|
|
|
ughhhh posted:You can use the pcpartspicker website to guess the wattage by plugging in your build. To be exact about it you would need to buy a electricity monitor like a Kill A Watt that you plug in-between your PC and socket. Right OK, I saw hardware based solutions while googling but I wondered if there were any software based methods, because I've seen watt charts measured in real-time on various videos but I guess those must use specialised hardware data. I don't care enough to buy something extra, I was just curious how many watts I'd saved with my undervolts because I'm running a 3080 and 5600x on a Corsair SF 600 (the 750 was and still is unavailable) and wanted it to run in the more efficient range. To be clear I never had any problems or shutdowns when they were running normally, and PCPP estimates my total wattage as 474.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2021 17:12
|
|
|
It's ~1000rpm apparently, although I've never been able to discern it with mine.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2021 02:31
|
|
|
I was worried about fan cable management in the nr200 but ended up just wrapping the excess cable taut around the outside of the fans and installing them such that there was the smallest necessary amount of extra cable needed to reach the splitters. I had barely any extra cables to tie up and hide away, and I've got a full 6 fans in there.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 25, 2021 23:04
|
|
|
Rhaka posted:
A few pointers: Wrap your excess fan cables taut around the housing of the fans themselves, leaving just enough cable length to reach the header/splitter. If you want to do this properly you'll probably need to remove and reinstall the fans in a different orientation so that you can wrap as much of the cable around as possible. This leaves you with much less excess cable to tie up and hide away and results in a much cleaner look. You can do a lot better with your GPU cables too. Tie them and shove them out of the way in the gap in front of your bottom front case fan, as you can see in my example. You have to have the PSU oriented with the cables coming out of the bottom or else you're not going to be plugging in the power cable extension. As long as you use plastic zip ties to secure the cables out of the way, they're not going to be able to dangle into the fan at all. I use velcro cable ties for tying up excess bunches of cable where it isn't too important if they come a bit loose, as with my GPU power cables, and plastic zip ties for when I don't want the cables to move at all.  I'd also tie up your SATA cable and sequester that away behind the front panel next to your SSD. You can do better with your CPU and motherboard power cables too. Look how in my example I've bent the mobo cable back on itself. That narrow channel between the motherboard and PSU shroud can do a lot of the heavy lifting when it comes to running and hiding cables, don't be afraid to use ties prodigiously.  Finally, I followed a build guide from machines & more which was very useful. He had a really good trick to route the front panel cables underneath the motherboard and the PSU shroud, which at first I thought was fiddly and impossible but eventually I figured out where the cables needed to go and it made a lot of sense. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nyV4J1n7YQ&t=845s This works with the b550i aorus pro, ymmv depending on where the headers are on your board. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Jan 31, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2021 16:51
|
|
|
obi_ant posted:Is there a steep increase in difficulty when building a SFFPC compared to a 'normal' sized one. The smallest computer I've built was in a Corsair Obsidian 250D. I've been looking at a lot of SFFPCs and it seems to be a good idea to purchase custom cables so I don't need to deal with too much cable management. I'm no expert but it's going to vary wildly depending on just how small the SFF case is and also how much of a poo poo you give about cable management. I just built in the nr200p and had no problem physically fitting components in, as the case is roomy and you can remove pretty much every panel to get at it from all angles. As the other poster said, cable management took up the majority of the time, but it was an enjoyable and satisfying challenge to overcome. SFX PSUs come with shorter cables as it is so idk if custom cables would help you. Look at my post halfway up this page and compare the two builds in the same case with much the same components to get an idea of how cables can look if you're not too fussed about appearance vs if you try to optimise their placement. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Feb 2, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2021 01:56
|
|
|
Head Bee Guy posted:any nr200 cable management inspo? gonna wire an rgb strip into my mobo soon, and I was so planning on using that as an opportunity to clean house and reroute a bunch of cables. What's the current state of affairs?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2021 11:36
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 11:54 |
|
|
Head Bee Guy posted:Thanks for the effort post, boss. This gives me a lot of ideas. I also have a psu-mounted hdd. Kinda too embarrassed by the state of things to snap a gore pic. Click my ? to see one of my recent posts where I outlined my own cable management in the nr200 if you want some more ideas, which may be useful depending on what configuration you're aiming for. I quite like ijyt's routing of the cpu power behind the back of the motherboard, I hadn't considered that as an option, and also bundling up the excess 24 pin cable length under the GPU looks neater than my effort.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2021 01:31
|
|