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Has anyone actually found a way to slap an AIO onto a 3080 yet? I've got ideas for a SFF build, but it'd be much better if I could go dual AIOs than dealing with open-air cooling.
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Oct 7, 2020 20:42
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abraham linksys posted:seems like a 3070 should fit in it, right? maybe the reason it's not already sold out is that the 650W PSU is underpowered for the 3080 and the space concern, and everyone's all hyped on 3080s rn. or maybe people have moved on from the H1, or no one noticed that it's in stock and it'll be sold out 15 minutes from me making this post Many 3070's should fit, yeah. Hell, many 3080's fit, and even some 3090's: compatibility matrix 650W is just fine for a 3080 as long as you're not planning on trying to overclock it to the MAXXX and pair it with a 10900k you're also planning on clocking to the moon. For a 3070 it's borderline overkill.
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Oct 9, 2020 20:47
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ijyt posted:I'm still kinda dubious of the FE style in sandwich cases tbh. I'd rather go for an AIB if I were going for case like that. You can't. The FE is the only card that's strictly sticking with the two-slot height limit. You might be able to wedge a ASUS TUF or EVGA XC3 in there, as they're only slightly taller, but any other AIB is far too big for that case.
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Oct 12, 2020 16:13
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ijyt posted:It's a 3-slot case. It's a modifiable case--you either get a 2-slot GPU side and reasonable space for a CPU cooler, or a 3-slot GPU side and miniscule space for a CPU cooler. If you want to stay with the 2-slot GPU setup, your 3080 options are quite limited--FE, TUF, XC3. If you do the 3-slot setup, then yeah, you can fit some other cards in there. It looks like a lot of the 3090 AIBs aren't much different in size from the FE, and in fact some of them are actually thinner, so they'd fit even better. Obvious exceptions for fatty thiccs like the effectively 4-slot Auros cards, of course. But yeah, I think you're right that if you're gonna do a 3080 in the 3-slot configuration, you'd be better off with one of the AIBs with more aggressive cooling capacity.
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Oct 12, 2020 16:27
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VorpalFish posted:Specifically a 3080 or 3090 - the 3070 is supposedly going to draw much less power (somewhere in the 230w range) and should be more than fine with ~600w. As long as you're not trying to run an Intel chip OC'ed to the moon, plenty of people are running 3080's on a 600W PSU without issue. You can't really overclock them meaningfully, anyhow. In fact, a bunch of people have been able to undervolt and shave up to 50W off the things with only low single-digit performance loss, which is hilarious. If you're going AMD, overclocking their CPUs is basically a pointless exercise, too. I mean, all things being equal, sure, a 750W unit over a 650W makes sense. But if your choice is 650W or nothing, or the price delta is considerable, a 650W is unlikely to actually limit you. Also not sure what the market in the UK looks like, but in the US Seasonic has a SFF 650 for basically the same price as the EVGA one, and Seasonic has a 10 year warranty, which you simply can't beat.
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Oct 13, 2020 15:45
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Warmachine posted:The Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV SHIFT might also suit your needs. The profile is eye catching, and it has tempered glass if that's your thing. IIRC you need to give some thought to cooling though unless you're going full custom loop (but that's the price you pay for tempered glass). I am trying to build in this case now (pending parts). Finding this case is a pain in the rear end right now, to the point where I ended up having to buy it on eBay. It's beautiful, though, I'll give it that much. That said, it looks like it can only support an ever so slightly thicker than 2-slot GPU (like, maybe 5mm larger). Width and length are no issues, though. Apparently temps are much improved if you're willing to take the front and/or rear panels to a local CNC shop and have them mill vent holes in them.
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Oct 13, 2020 17:26
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VorpalFish posted:As much as I love seasonic and would buy them absolutely everywhere I could, I don't believe they make a true sfx unit under their own brand, just sfx-l, which can get you in to trouble depending on your case. I think you're right: the Focus 650 that I got from them is a SFX-L. Fits fine in the Evolv Shift, though! Well, except for the stupid power plug bit, which needs to be flipped around on the case side if you want the PSU fan not to be ingesting hot case air.
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Oct 13, 2020 18:24
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abraham linksys posted:is it just me, or is it impossible to buy an SFX power supply (650W or 750W) right now from anything other than a super sketchy third party vendor? this might actually be the last nail in the coffin for my SFF dreams - while the NZXT H210 supports an ATX PSU, if I ever want to move from that to an NR200, I'd have to then buy an SFX PSU, or apparently 3D print an ATX bracket for the loving thing, which, yikes They are harder to find, yeah. I'd go through Amazon, so at least you're still backed by a real return policy. ATX brackets are pretty much fine. If you're going to 3d print it, just up the fill reasonably high, or buy one from someone. As long as you're not putting the thing on an earthquake plate or something, it's not like it needs to be able to withstand all that much shock or anything, and if it's getting hot enough in there to melt/deform the plastic, it's way too hot in there. e; are you not in the US? 30 seconds on Amazon: Corsair SF600 $120 from Amazon.com (though OOS until the 20th), or get the 750 for $300 (lol) 3rd party. Seasonic SFX-L 650W for $135 from Amazon.com EVGA 650 SFX for $118 Amazon 3rd party Silverstone SFX 700W for $175 from Amazon.com (no idea how good it is, though) DrDork fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 00:01
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abraham linksys posted:ah, thanks for the links! I did do some digging on PC Part Picker, but was having trouble figuring out what was "reasonably inflated prices due to current conditions" and what was just price gouging by assholes. Yeah, that's reasonable. They're almost all trending $30+ over "normal" prices, but that's just how the market is right now, sadly. Except for the SF700 at $300. That's just wrong. Related, if you don't have it yet, you can use CamelCamelCamel on Amazon as a historical price tracker to see how badly you're getting gouged. 600 is more than enough for a 3070 (~230W) unless you want to run an Intel 10th gen chip wildly overclocked. A Ryzen 3700X + 3070 + 16GB RAM + 1x NVMe SSD on a normal motherboard should be <500W, probably closer to 450W peak.
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Oct 14, 2020 00:20
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ijyt posted:SFF people, how do you handle multiple fans on an ITX board? The X570-I from ASUS has 3 headers (CPU, Pump, Chassis). I'm gonna go google this but is there anything BIOS related that might affect the pump header like having it run at 100% RPM, or is it just labeling and they're all the same. My next build is probably going to have 4-6 fans depending on space constraints, two on the heatsink, and two intake at a minimum. If I can, an extra 1-2 as exhaust fans. Depends on whether you're doing an AIO or not. The "pump" header is normally just a standard fan controller that is rated for higher amperage to support the extra power draw of a pump, but otherwise should function just fine for fans. Actual speeds should be controllable in software. If you're running them in pairs like it sounds like you are, you could get splitters and run the two CPU heatsink fans off the CPU header, the two intakes off the pump/chassis (whichever's closer), and the two exhaust ones off whichever is left over. Other options are to use a dedicated fan controller, or go with something fancy like Arctic's PWM PST fans that let you daisy-chain them. If you're doing an AIO, then you should be using the pump header for the pump, but otherwise can then do much the same: two intake fans of one of the remaining headers, two exhaust fans off the remaining one.
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Oct 14, 2020 16:32
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VorpalFish posted:Shorter lifespan, more failure points, more catastrophic failure modes, potentially pump noise. Cheapest good aio (arctic freezer ii 280) is like $100 vs $60 for the fuma 2. Most AIOs from reputable companies last 5+ years, but I suppose it's true that you can't just leave them on there forever. Pump noise is hit or miss, but I've never had an issue with one as long as I had it installed right and put a little effort into making sure I got any bubbles out of the pump itself. Can't really say much about catastrophic failures--it's a potential risk, albeit not one that's likely to occur. Corsair, NZXT, and EVGA have been known to cover parts destroyed by leaks, but I don't think they actually have that policy in writing. Personally, I have a cheap (like $1/mo?) rider on my homeowners insurance for computer coverage, so it's not a real concern of mine in the first place, but obviously that doesn't apply to everyone. You really don't need a 280 AIO for a CPU though, especially an AMD one with a mild overclock. There's often only a 1-3C difference in performance between a 120 and a 280 until you start getting crazy, like pushing 300W through a 10900k. An H60 is ~$80 and performs very well and should fit well in those cases.
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Oct 23, 2020 15:24
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VorpalFish posted:If you aren't going 280 why go aio at all? An H60 is probably gonna straight up get beaten by the tower coolers (context of the conversation is the nr200 which can fit the fuma 2 and the u12a). I haven't seen a direct comparison, but a H60 is usually +/- 1-2C from a NH-D15, so you can work your assessment from there. The "why" is space. The guy literally said the U12A didn't fit with the NR200P with his setup. But yeah, if you can fit a nice air cooler it's not like you're going to get noticeably better performance out of an AIO--and that applies to the 280's, as well. They're total overkill for a ~150W CPU. Now if you want to talk custom loop, then a 280 makes a lot of sense if you're wiring both the CPU and GPU into it.
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Oct 23, 2020 15:49
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VorpalFish posted:+/- a few degrees doesn't mean much absent noise. If you noise normalize it gets dumpstered by big air coolers. At low temps, you're right, since the H60 is a constant-speed pump and therefore will generally be louder at "idle" than a good air cooler. At load it evens out to pretty similar, though. I finally found a direct comparison: https://techbuyersguru.com/corsair-hydro-h60-2018-cpu-cooler-review?page=3 But yeah, if you're looking for a "silent" PC, a constant-speed pump like the H60 ain't the way to go. Either you want the Fuma if you spend most of your time at idle / low load, the U12S if you spend most of your time at higher load, or a Kraken X41 since it's variable speed (but those are also >$100 so the value proposition is poor). Basically if you can get away with an air cooler, you might as well do so. But if you can't physically fit it, there are viable AIO options that will do quite well. Of course the real answer is to drink the funny-colored koolaid and go full custom loop and try really hard not to think about how you just spent more for pipes and pumps and blocks than you did on most of the rest of the system combined.
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Oct 23, 2020 16:09
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VorpalFish posted:When I look at that load chart I see it getting poo poo on by the u12s - 28 db vs 37 dba for 175w load and 33 vs 40 for 200w load at nominally the same temperatures. And the u12s is straight up worse than the u12a. Yeah, don't get me wrong, if you can fit them there's really no reason to consider anything other than the Fuma/U12. It's when you can't that you gotta start looking elsewhere. The other use for an AIO is when you want really directed thermal control. For example, I'm trying to figure out a build in a Evolv Shift, which is well known for looking cool as hell and having abysmal thermals because it was designed by someone who apparently never bothered to actually run a system in one. I could toss a Fuma in there, but it would cook itself because the airflow is so poor--so I'm likely to end up either with an AIO or possibly a full loop if I get drunk enough one of these nights with my wallet near my computer, simply so I can redirect the heat out the bottom.
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Oct 23, 2020 16:38
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VorpalFish posted:The evolv shift is brutal for thermals especially if you want the glass version. I can definitely see going with 2 120mm aios for that case with one on the gpu (or custom loop with 2 120 rads). Of course I got the glass version! ~*~aesthetics~*~ I am idly considering doing the CNC mods to the front and rear panels, though, since apparently just drilling some holes in them drops internal case temps by like 15C, which is...not indicative of a well designed case. gently caress, I wish it didn't look so good and I could convince myself to use a much more sensible case. Plus I haven't found a local CNC shop, anyhow. The best part is that it only sorta supports 2x 120's, in that you have to get thin ones and use thin fans on them. If I go custom loop I might just do one of the double thick (~50mm) 120s, since last I checked there wasn't much performance difference between a double-thick 120 and 2x normal 120's. That a block for a 3080 is gonna cost ~$170 is an obnoxious price-add, but AFAIK no one's yet released any G12-style AIO adapter for the 3080, since NVidia went and changed the mounting holes for the first time in like a decade. Drunk engineer me wonders how effective zip-ties through the holes would be in holding a AIO block on, though, because dumping 300+W of heat into that case with an air-cooled 3080 doesn't sound like the best plan. necrobobsledder posted:An AIO for SFF to me is better suited for GPUs rather than a CPU unless you're running primarily CPU-bounded tasks like non-GPU accelerated video encoders all dang day. GPU power usage has climbed dramatically for the mid and upper end while for consumer CPUs it's mostly held steady or dropped within their respective user tiers. Oh yeah, AIOs on GPUs even for non-SFF cases is magical. Better thermal performance, lower noise, and you can actually dump all the heat out of your case instead of hot-boxing everything inside. I've been running them since the 980Ti, and A+ would recommend.
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Oct 23, 2020 17:01
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VorpalFish posted:The evolv shift is actually the first sff case I wanted to build in cause it does look very cool but in finally managed to convince myself I could never make the thermals work at noise levels I could live with. Oh, it's totally doable. Just for $500+ with a custom loop, at which point it looks fantastic. Or you use an AIO-equipped GPU--that all the 3080's are going with 280+ AIOs angers me. Funny thing is, it's not really a small case to begin with. Frankly what I really want is a Corsair One, but those guys are always a year or so behind with components and don't support TB3, so I'd have to give up 10Gb networking, and that ain't happening.
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Oct 23, 2020 17:03
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ughhhh posted:What's a suggested size for an aio for a gpu in a cramped case like the nr200. Is the general consensus of 120mm rad per component still apply for sffs? If you've got the space for it, get a 240/280. Not because it'll actually cool much better, but because you get much better options in terms of variable speed pumps (which you want) at only slightly higher costs. If you're just looking for the cheapest, you could do a H60 or similar, but they're constant-speed and thus a bit louder than a lot of people would prefer, given that a SFF is often located closer to you / more obvious than noise in a tower case shoved under a desk would be. From a pure cooling perspective, a 120mm is more than sufficient for either a GPU or CPU, though as noted up-thread there are generally quieter CPU options available if you can fit them.
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Oct 23, 2020 17:17
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Vigil for Virgil posted:When is the U12a chromax supposed to be out? When they figure out how to grab the black dye bottle instead of the brown one. So probably never.
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Oct 23, 2020 22:21
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Warmachine posted:Pretty sure he's speaking of the SF750, which is really the only choice for high-performance SFF builds. If you're still buying SF600s you're knowingly gimping any future upgrade paths or overclocking potential. 650W's have been reasonably available, and that's more than enough for Ampere + Zen 3. 650W only gets iffy if you want to go Intel + crazy OC. Not sure why you'd want to do that at this point, given that the price difference of Intel + 750W PSU could bump you up a notch on the Zen 3 stack.
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Oct 25, 2020 19:50
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Vigil for Virgil posted:The way those tubes press against each other makes me nervous.. It's not like they're going to vibrate and saw through each other, though. It's honestly not the tubes I'd worry about, but making sure that you're not stressing any of the fittings/joints (which mostly just means cutting a correct length of tubing).
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Oct 31, 2020 15:15
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ijyt posted:O gently caress. Speaking of, what are people's general thoughts on the small combo units, like these https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Pump-Reservoir/Hydro-X-Series-XD3-RGB-Pump-Reservoir-Combo/p/CX-9040003-WW instead of the larger colum based ones?
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Nov 1, 2020 16:01
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Warmachine posted:https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-vector-fe-rtx-3080-d-rgb-black-special-edition Man, that is pretty as gently caress, but ouch at being $100 over EK's already pricey other GPU blocks. I mean, I'd get one if I had a FE, but I ended up with a Zotac so I'll have to get something else (or wait for the Gigabyte/ASUS watercooled ones to come out and trade up).
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Nov 8, 2020 03:06
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Moey posted:Do 3rd party cards ever drop cheaper than FE? Or are you just shopping for boost clocks/leds? Nope, the FE makes an effective price floor: everything else will be more expensive unless you find one of the cheaper cards with a $50 sale or something. NVidia has yet to discontinue a FE card to my knowledge, so there's no reason to expect that you wouldn't still be able to get one in a few months (I mean, as much as you'll be able to get any 3080, anyhow). Despite the name, they're not being positioned as limited editions or something like that. VorpalFish posted:That said, A12x25s are loving magical, just unreasonably expensive. Arctic P12s are nearly as good for a third of the cost, but a lot of people have noticed motor hum between 1000-1200 rpm so maybe only worth it if you can keep them below 1k. Or just use the fan control software either built into basically every motherboard these days or via Windows to set a fan curve that skips that particular RPM segment, and just jumps from like 900RPM to 1100RPM. Not every P12 exhibits the issue, either. But it's like 10 min of work to save $20/fan.
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Nov 9, 2020 17:52
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VorpalFish posted:Doesn't it do it on the way as it accelerates? That would drive me nuts even if it was half a second. Yeah, the fan itself will indeed have to pass through that speed zone at least momentarily. I have a bunch of the P12's, though, and I can say that the resonance "noise" is not bad at all. It's a difference between being effectively silent to "I think maybe I can hear something?" So if it's just there for 1 second as a transient state you're not likely to notice it. But of course YMMV, and if money and brown coloring isn't a concern you can get the Nocturas and avoid the issue entirely.
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Nov 9, 2020 20:58
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Except the recommendations from NVidia/AMD are kinda silly. No, you do not need a 750W PSU for a 3080, unless you're pairing it with a 10900k you're OCing to the moon. I've got a 5600X + 3080 and under benchmark / power virus load I'm seeing about 540W max draw. 600-650W is plenty, anything more than that is overkill.
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Nov 19, 2020 03:33
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CaptainPsyko posted:My understanding is that the 30 series cards are prone to spiky power draw that can run into trouble with under specced PSU's sometimes. The biggest spike I've seen so far is ~330W, with sustained being down in the ~290W range mostly. So even a 550W PSU would be able to keep up with that without much issue, though for safety I'd probably get a 600 or better.
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Nov 19, 2020 17:37
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If the prices are similar, I agree: I'd pay $10 or $20 to bump from a 550W to a 650/750W, sure. But there's been a tendency to drive people to buying these $200+ overbuilt PSUs on the thinking that they need them to power a 3080 + Zen3, when that simply isn't the case. Same with pushing people to get Plat or Titanium rated PSUs, despite the price increases there making no sense whatsoever for 99.99% of people (haven't seen much of that pushing here, but certainly on other forums it's rampant). 2% extra efficiency is never going to pay off the up-front costs, sorry. Basically a lot of people are being told they "need" a much more expensive PSU than they actually do, based on outdated rules like "don't run it over 60% load" or other nonsense. But yeah, if it's only a couple of bucks more, why not get the bigger one? If you're searching for a "silent" PSU, a few more watts isn't likely to make that much of a difference, since most of the "zero fan" ones stop running silent at 250-300W, and once the fan kicks on, straight wattage isn't often a good indicator of how loud it will be. You end up having to dig through reviews to find out if a given model bothered to pack a good fan in there, or if it's some loud rickety mess. DrDork fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 18:45
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ijyt posted:Bless Ali from OptimumTech for saving me like, £90. Saw the NF-A12’s going for £29.99 per fan, and jumped on a 5-pack of Arctic P12’s instead for £27.99 after checking out his comparison. Yeah, they're fantastic deals. I personally haven't noticed much resonance noise at 1000RPM, but it's pretty easy.to set a fan curve to avoid that range if yours do. Also the PST versions are daisychain-able, which is real nice for keeping the cables organized and avoiding running out of fan headers.
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Nov 22, 2020 16:43
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ijyt posted:Oh perfect, didn’t know about the daisychain feature! Only the "PST" models have it. They're usually like $1 more than the non-PST models, though, so no reason not to get them.
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Nov 22, 2020 22:12
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Zero VGS posted:Could someone explain this glorious thing to me? The answer is a Chinese special--they make some weird as gently caress stuff over there, particularly for older CPUs. I'm not sure how wise a buy it is, given that each socket only has two RAM slots and they're 100% guaranteed to have cut corners everywhere they could. Especially when for only a few bucks more ($30 shipping, after all) you could get a dual-socket Supermicro that you know was designed well.
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Nov 24, 2020 06:30
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Coredump posted:You got a super micro board you would recommend in this case? If you really have a need for dual E5-26xx v2's, get the SuperMicro X9D series. Obviously you'd be buying used instead of new, but there are always great deals you can get. This X9DR3-LN4F+ for example, is $150 for a dual-socket, 24-RAM slot, 4x PCIe 3.0 x16 slot board with dual E5-2630's with heatsinks already on there. It's also obviously large (eATX, so ~13"x13"), but what can you do? I mean, don't get me wrong, the crazy China-boards are sometimes good options if you really want a new-production board for some reason, the used market is utterly terrible, or because they did something that even ASRock wouldn't be crazy enough to do, like this thing. But if you just need standard(ish) old server stuff, eBay has a tooooon of high quality parts selling for super cheap most of the time. DrDork fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Nov 24, 2020 |
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Nov 24, 2020 16:23
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buglord posted:Why this board and not a regular consumer grade board? The only benefit I see are 4 ram slots vs 2. (And the extra credit benefit of looking like a plain ol pc component instead of some goofy branded gaming device) It's also a lot more expensive. Why not just get 2 denser ram sticks instead? 12v 8-pin input instead of the normal 24-pin motherboard power connector, which is easier for his special snowflake backpack idea. Otherwise there's no real reason to buy something like that when boards like the ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming ITX/TB3 exist for about 1/3 the price. The price difference means he probably could buy a pico PSU and still end up cheaper, but that's more hardware to carry around.
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Nov 24, 2020 23:50
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ijyt posted:Loving this vague hostility for someone just trying to do a fun project. No hostility at all. He's just embarking on a very, very specific project that is way outside the realm of what most would even consider--and good for him. I think it's a cool idea, given that (presumably) the GPU power available in a laptop + wireless HMD is insufficient for what he wants to do. But yeah, other than the ease of managing power input (which is legit something to consider when you're strapping it all to your back), as a $400+ board that one struggles to find much reason to exist considering the other much cheaper alternatives already out there. e; or really need onboard 10GbE in a mITX format, but can't/don't want to use a TB adapter, which is...uh...gonna be a very specialized need. Which, I suppose, is why it's a $400+ board--likely super low volume, so high cost amortization. DrDork fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Nov 25, 2020 |
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Nov 25, 2020 01:49
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FuzzySlippers posted:So as far as CPUs, the conventional wisdom lately seems to favor AMD for price/performance but does that change at all when trying to consider cooling in a particularly squished SFF case? It seems like I see a lot more intel builds on the SFF reddit, but maybe that's just my random sampling. My usage is gonna be pretty moderate as I'd just stream from my desktop for anything intense. Probably my most intense cpu usage I'd rather do local would be Civ6. You see a lot of SFF Intel builds because Intel CPUs, up until Zen3, were still notably better for gaming than AMD was, and a ton of SFF builds are made by gamers. Cooling, if anything, favors Zen3 even more: you get excellent performance at stock / very mild overclocks while staying within very reasonable power profiles. Intel chips right now often need to overclock into the 200W+ range to be competitive. One thing that's true is that there are more SFF-compatible Intel-style coolers than there are AMD, but most of the big-name ones (Noctura, etc) have AM4 mounting brackets, so it's not a big issue. Also some mITX AM4 boards actually use Intel 115x mounts specifically to expand cooler selection, so be sure to check on what you're getting there to make everything match up. Depending on how much you value FPS on Civ6 and the like, you might want to check out what prices you can find Ryzen 3600/3700's for: a 5600X is a fantastic chip, but at $300 might be a little overkill if all you want to do is light gaming for the most part.
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Nov 25, 2020 02:36
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Romes128 posted:Speaking of AMD CPU's. Hot drat I can't find a 5800x anywhere. I guess the new GPU's aren't the only thing that's hard to come by. 5800X's were always destined to be very hard to get: they require a "perfect" CCX complex to make, vs the 5600/5900X which utilize "imperfect" 6-of-8 core CCX's, and so are enormously easier to make.
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Nov 25, 2020 02:37
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FuzzySlippers posted:I'm guessing this is just covid or is there really an insane surge of people building computers? Same difference. AMD has limited production capacity, and a ton of people want those chips, for various reasons. They'll be a bit annoying to get for a while, I'd think.
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Nov 25, 2020 03:29
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CaptainPsyko posted:Enjoy jumping the board with a screwdriver. Real men use knives. Just sayin'. (which they then wave threateningly at the board when it doesn't work right)
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Dec 2, 2020 04:08
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VulgarandStupid posted:Do any of you guys have a 5800X or 5900X to help me activate a game code? Or does anyone actually want Farcry 6? I think my code expires at the end of the year. Yes to both? If you've got a NVidia account, I could try trading you for CoD: BO CW (jesus gently caress they need shorter names) that I've got spare from buying a 3080.
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Dec 24, 2020 06:37
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Coredump posted:Makes me wonder how the Corsair One accomplishes putting all its I/O out the back when its GPU is vertical. Small (~6") cables that connect to the outputs of the card and then are routed to the ports exposed on the back of the case. They didn't go with right-angle ones because there was (barely) enough room to just use "normal"-ish cable connections. It worked well for them since you weren't supposed to be mucking with it basically ever.
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Dec 30, 2020 02:05
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| # ¿ Apr 18, 2024 04:02 |
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You can see if the motherboard exposes VRM temps, otherwise do you have a temp gun or sensors you could stick to them? All the wattage for your CPU goes through those, so they could be disappating a considerable amount of heat from shoving 150+W through them--a "good" temp is usually around 60C, with poor implementations hitting 90+. The X570 chipset is only supposed to draw like 10W, so it needs a lot less cooling. Anyhow, it's hard to say what will or will not be sufficient, especially since lower fin cross section can be made up for by better airflow (or vice versa), and I have no idea how much air it'll be getting with your setup. Try it and see? Worst that happens is temp skyrocket (have a sensor to be able to see this!) and the whole system throttles because the VRMs start choking off the power so they don't cook themselves.
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Dec 31, 2020 03:11
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