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Depends on the gas station. If I were to fill up a 17 gallon tank from empty with 87 vs 91 at the one by my apartment, I'd be looking at about a $9 difference.
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Oct 31, 2016 05:07
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I remember that slave cam setup on my '89 Camry DX 3S-FE. It works fine until the tension spring on the exhaust-side cam snaps and the teeth don't mesh properly. Then it sounds like a diesel engine. Nothing a $8 part with several hundred in labor won't fix. 
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Oct 31, 2016 12:46
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Depends on the gas station. If I were to fill up a 17 gallon tank from empty with 87 vs 91 at the one by my apartment, I'd be looking at about a $9 difference. Yep, it's not $0.20 more than 87 like it used to be.  I would seriously doubt that they didn't have a different calibration for different octanes. If it doesn't require 91/93, I'd dump 87 in it and run it into the ground...if it hadn't already been done. 
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Oct 31, 2016 13:19
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Pretty sure the owner's manual for my wife's old 99 Camry with the 1MZ said 87 was fine, but you'd get a little more power with 91.
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Oct 31, 2016 13:58
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Just within the past 6 months, the price for premium/93 jumped from $.20 more than crap/89 to anywhere from $.40 to $.50 per gallon here. That said, I've driven many cars that are knock-sensor based with regard to their timing maps that have had a noticeable difference in feel when allowed to set the timing map to 93 instead of 89. I think this car will be the same. In my unscientific study, from wailing on it for a week, leaving my dad's house and stomping it originally lead to a little tire scrub. Now I leave cute little elevenses.
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Oct 31, 2016 14:54
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EVERYWHERE 
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I run premium simply to avoid ethanol, but I guess that's less of a big deal on newer cars.
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Oct 31, 2016 15:22
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Lightbulb Out posted:I run premium simply to avoid ethanol, but I guess that's less of a big deal on newer cars. What's your reasoning here? I doubt the payoff of slightly better fuel economy offsets the price. Assume you have something old and ethanol is going to kill your seals and o-rings?
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Oct 31, 2016 15:52
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Also, I'm pretty sure that premium gas isn't a guarantee that it's going to be ethanol-free.
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Oct 31, 2016 15:58
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Also, I'm pretty sure that premium gas isn't a guarantee that it's going to be ethanol-free. No guarantee, but around here the premium is typically ethanol free and the rest is an ethanol blend. Larrymer posted:What's your reasoning here? I doubt the payoff of slightly better fuel economy offsets the price. Assume you have something old and ethanol is going to kill your seals and o-rings? I've found the E30s run better/increased mileage without ethanol. Probably just in my head.
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Oct 31, 2016 15:59
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Lightbulb Out posted:I've found the E30s run better/increased mileage without ethanol. Probably just in my head. In the very rare instances I've been able to fill up with ethanol free gas, I absolutely noticed a mileage difference, in addition to just smoother running in general.
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Oct 31, 2016 16:08
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Also, I'm pretty sure that premium gas isn't a guarantee that it's going to be ethanol-free. It is for (most of) Idaho, at least.
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Oct 31, 2016 16:40
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Around my area, if you can find ethanol-free gasoline, it's usually 87 octane.
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Oct 31, 2016 16:52
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Could it be running better now since it's done re-learning the fuel mapping after having the battery disconnected? I was under the impression that you should run the lowest octane you can without knocking. The cooler weather should help prevent knocking as well. Source: I have a '99 avalon and run 89 in it, have run 87 at times when I forgot and haven't notice any ill effects.
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Oct 31, 2016 18:51
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dreesemonkey posted:Could it be running better now since it's done re-learning the fuel mapping after having the battery disconnected? Absolutely, I was going to look that up and haven't gotten around to it. I don't know if Toyota ECUs lose their mapping with battery disconnect. quote:I was under the impression that you should run the lowest octane you can without knocking. The cooler weather should help prevent knocking as well. I was under the impression that on motors that set their timing via knock sensors that the higher octane you run, the more the car's ECU will advance the timing... making more power.
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Oct 31, 2016 18:58
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Hey MeatpimpFlu, do you have an opinion on those rustproofing sprays like FluidFilm when used as a preventative?
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Oct 31, 2016 19:04
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Think of a knock sensor like an o2 sensor. It's just giving feedback to which the ECM makes adjustment, and it only does it in the retarded direction. All it is is a microphone anyway, and probably can't pinpoint which cylinder is even knocking so it makes the adjustment across the board. The timing is set by the ECM calibration via a few tables, and is usually optimized for whatever the recommended fuel is. If for some reason they already had a cal for higher octane fuel I suppose that could be used, but the knock sensor is going to pick up a lot more activity and continually be retarding timing. It will try to learn back up to the table value and keep getting knocked (no pun intended) back down since the octane is insufficient to prevent detonation. I can't imagine they would do it this way but who knows. Also: who cares it's an Avalon and 5hp won't make a difference. 
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Oct 31, 2016 19:06
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beep-beep car is go posted:Hey MeatpimpFlu, do you have an opinion on those rustproofing sprays like FluidFilm when used as a preventative? Nope. I think kastein brought it up earlier in this thread. I intend on trying it on the Escalde's brake lines prior to Winter hitting. Having the Avalon to take the brunt of Winter beater duty puts that on a bit of lower priority, though. Larrymer posted:I can't imagine they would do it this way but who knows. Also: who cares it's an Avalon and 5hp won't make a difference. All Horsepowers Matter.  And yeah, Toyota ECUs reset with battery disconnection, so that happened as soon as I got it. Since then I've cleaned the throttle bodies (twin, for real powah) and cleaned the MAF sensor (which was black until I hit it with MAF sensor cleaner), so those may be playing a part in better feeling/response. Edit: So I saw my old house is up for sale. That got me to looking at old pictures of how I left it and comparing with how it is now. I also found some old car pics. I nearly forgot about my Forester. That thing was stupid fast: 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 19:39
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So I've done a bunch of random stuff since last post. Got the new Toyo Open Country AT2 set mounted on some stock 18" wheels for Winter. They're definitely noisier, but also give a much more compliant ride than the 20" wheels. Also give it a much better look. My wife doesn't notice a difference in looks between the 20" chrome wheels with low profile tires and 18" wheels with knobby tires, though.  I also misjudged the distance between my passenger side mirror and the garage frame and broke the glass. Thankfully the body of the mirror flexed with no damage. Got to buy a replacement turn signal/heated/self-dimming mirror, great.  And I've been working on the Avalon a bit, as well. I got a steering wheel for it that's in great shape, so no more trashed leather. I have to go back into the front brakes because even though I cleaned up the caliper sliders, every once in a while there's a groaning from the pad not releasing fully from the rotor. The best thing I did to it, though, was replacing the upstream o2 sensor on the rear bank. They put that bastard above the exhaust manifold, between the engine and the firewall, so space is tight. You're "supposed" to remove the intake tract to get access, but I was able to do it by just shoving my arm into the space and found enough clearance to not only get to it, but to get enough leverage to free a sensor that's been sitting in the exhaust manifold for 16 years. So far, no check engine light, but I've only had a few drive cycles, so I don't know if it's fixed or not yet. The a/c only needed just a puff of refrigerant, it was pretty much fine. I've hit the secondary fluids, power steering, brake, etc. I just need to do the coolant. With the coolant -- any suggestions? I have no idea what's in there now, looks like a combination of green and pink, since it's just a brown-ish.
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Nov 21, 2016 15:49
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Seminal Flu posted:
It should be the Toyota red coolant. It was probably just topped off with the green stuff. You may want to flush and refill with the Toyota Red.
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Nov 21, 2016 15:58
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I just use Zerex Asian which is red just like Toyota coolant but cheaper. Napa usually stocks it.
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Nov 21, 2016 16:22
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I'll look for the coolant locally, Amazon seems to be focused on 50/50 crap and I can add my own water. One trick to share that's worked great for me so far -- Amazon Warehouse for brake parts. I did the Envoy, Escalade and now the Avalon -- pads and rotors, front and rear, for about 60% of the normal price. I did the Avalon, with AC Delco rotors and Dura Ceramic pads for $109, total.
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Nov 21, 2016 16:41
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Toyota doesn't sell the coolant premixed anymore, I just went to the dealer when I needed it, the parts guys throw me a cool car discount of like 20% for the AW11, so it actually is cheaper than Salvo.
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Nov 21, 2016 16:44
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I just use Zerex Asian which is red just like Toyota coolant but cheaper. Napa usually stocks it. On your recommendation, and against my better judgement, I stopped at the local Napa. I asked for non-premix and they said "sure, right over here," then lead me to the premix. Then they went into the back and brought up a jug... of premix. They then said they'd have to order it straight. I'll just get it from Amazon and have it non-hosed up.  Edit: looks like all they make is premix. Either way, it's $3/gallon cheaper at Amazon and 2 gallons of premix Zerex is still $8 cheaper than a gallon of Toyota-brand. Thanks for the Asian tip, I hadn't seen that until you pointed it out. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Nov 21, 2016 |
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Nov 21, 2016 22:16
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Yeah I got premix since I just needed to top off, but I'm kinda surprised they don't carry it non diluted. I think you'll be fine just as long as you flush the old poo poo out with water and then try to get as much water out as you can, then just fill er up with pre mix.
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Nov 22, 2016 01:10
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If you're going to do a complete flush- you might as well just convert to Dexcool. It's a lifetime coolant, you see.. 
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Nov 22, 2016 01:32
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Daaaaaaaaymnnnnnn got them 18" wheels and Toyo Open Country ATII knobby tires on there and did some serious off roading. Went on a gravel driveway to get up to the christmas tree farm and threw a 12 footer on top.   In beater news, I dumped the coolant, which was a mix of red and green (it looks like they never fully mixed... as a whole it looked brown, but as I was pouring it out, there was distinct red and green? Weird). After that, I filled it with distilled water and ran it for a bit, then drained again and gave it a full topping up of Zerex Asian, thanks leica. After almost a week, it's still fully and perfectly pink, so I think the flush worked well.
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Dec 3, 2016 17:12
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Looks much better than the chrome wheels imo. I'm looking for some OEM 18" painted wheels for the Lexus as well, since the "chrome" on the stock wheels is peeling off inside where the bead seats and they are notorious for causing leaks. Would rather not deal with it and the painted wheels look better too, I never was into blingy chrome wheels to begin with.
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Dec 3, 2016 19:32
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No archives for you, thread. Not a lot of work during Winter, but the Avalon and Escalade are still plugging along. Just did a 4 hour trip in the Escalade last week at a 75mph average and it returned a stunning 15.5mpg. Since I replaced the sway bar mounts and bushings in the front, more stress gets pushed onto the struts, and that's trashed the upper mount on the driver's side. I'm going to give the Detroit Axle all-in-one struts a shot. Sounds like they're straight Chinesium, and the rear height may get jacked up, but for $250 for all 4 delivered, it's hard to pass up. One point of note: I bought a paint thickness gauge from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0126JMCQM -- I wish I would have had this years ago. It makes it SO easy to spot filler, plus the readings are absolutely repeatable. With that, the Juke has thin paint, the Escalade has a bit thicker paint and the Avalon goes from thin to  -- there's a spot in the driver's door that is 48 mil thick. That's just gobs and gobs of filler.
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Feb 5, 2017 23:21
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I've had great luck buying stuff from Detroit Axle, and their customer service is good too. Thanks for confirming the paint depth gauge is repeatable, I've been eyeing one for a while but the high cost of the proper ones are offputting 'cause I'm a poor.
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Feb 5, 2017 23:25
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Let me know how the Detroit Axle stuff goes. Mom's Avalon needs new struts pretty bad, and the drop in spring/strut combos are really tempting vs disassembly/reassembly.
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Feb 6, 2017 05:35
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Let me know how the Detroit Axle stuff goes. Mom's Avalon needs new struts pretty bad, and the drop in spring/strut combos are really tempting vs disassembly/reassembly. I sent an email to their customer service today to see if the reports of rear ride height getting jacked all to hell was a problem they've fixed (or even a real problem at all). Depending on their answer, I may be buying them soon. The backs aren't making any noise, but they're shot... squats way too much on acceleration and generally floaty.
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Feb 6, 2017 21:38
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Reading this and the "Descaladed" thread has me thinking about buying one. Any advice to someone (not auto inclined) who is looking to purchase an Escalade? My budget would likely be around $15k, and I'm in Colorado. Any particular engines/generations/years to look for or stay away from?
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Feb 10, 2017 02:39
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Hughmoris posted:Reading this and the "Descaladed" thread has me thinking about buying one. Any advice to someone (not auto inclined) who is looking to purchase an Escalade? My budget would likely be around $15k, and I'm in Colorado. Any particular engines/generations/years to look for or stay away from? For that kind of money you can get a newer truck, but for a 2nd gen (GMT800, 2002-2006), the 2002 has a lot of "one off" parts that were only used that model year, although there are a couple minor things with the 2002s that are arguably better (cabin filters, floor illumination IIRC, etc). GM took out cabin filters and changed a few other things for the 2003 - 2006s although it's potentially easy (depending on the type of airbox you have) to add them back into the later models. I did this on my 2003. TPMS was added in 2004. I think there are other things, but that's all I can remember offhand. e: 2002-2003 models equipped with navigation had a non-touchscreen unit that used a joystick. 2004-2006 had a touchscreen unit, although incredibly low res and clunky by today's standards. Base CD / cassette deck was the same for all of them if I'm remembering right. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 03:24
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Hughmoris posted:Reading this and the "Descaladed" thread has me thinking about buying one. Any advice to someone (not auto inclined) who is looking to purchase an Escalade? My budget would likely be around $15k, and I'm in Colorado. Any particular engines/generations/years to look for or stay away from? Get a Yukon. 2007+ gets the new body style. An Escalade is a $5000 premium for the same vehicle. I'm saying this as a 2009 Escalade owner. You'll lose a few horsepower but they're identical otherwise.
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Feb 10, 2017 08:02
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Black88GTA posted:For that kind of money you can get a newer truck, but for a 2nd gen (GMT800, 2002-2006), the 2002 has a lot of "one off" parts that were only used that model year, although there are a couple minor things with the 2002s that are arguably better (cabin filters, floor illumination IIRC, etc). GM took out cabin filters and changed a few other things for the 2003 - 2006s although it's potentially easy (depending on the type of airbox you have) to add them back into the later models. I did this on my 2003. TPMS was added in 2004. I think there are other things, but that's all I can remember offhand. wallaka posted:Get a Yukon. 2007+ gets the new body style. An Escalade is a $5000 premium for the same vehicle. I'm saying this as a 2009 Escalade owner. You'll lose a few horsepower but they're identical otherwise. Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered the Yukon but I'll give them a look. I realize this is a vague question but should I be scared off by high-mileages on these vehicles? Are the 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L pretty solid engines?
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Feb 10, 2017 14:55
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Hughmoris posted:Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered the Yukon but I'll give them a look. I realize this is a vague question but should I be scared off by high-mileages on these vehicles? Are the 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L pretty solid engines? It's hard to find low mileage trucks in these lines. I am just about to hit 100k on mine, a 2005, and I looked for a long time. It is VERY common to find them with 250k miles, plus. I think that speaks to their general longevity. I don't know about the '07+, so no L94 experience, but the LQ9 in my Escalade is great. I'd like more power, but even stock it gives a really big truck a little bit of hustle. I was looking specifically for a 6.0, I can't speak to what the 5.3 would be like... probably similar, obviously less push. I agree that the Denali and Escalade are mostly the same, I was looking for either in my search, but both commanded a premium with lower miles. I was specifically looking for a second-row captains chair truck, which seemed more common with the Escalades. For a family with 2 kids, that setup works great. When we're on a longer trip, the kids split time in the third row. On shorter trips, there's plenty of room for the dog to come with us. Keep in mind that there are 2wd versions. The Escalade has the 5.2 2WD stock. AWD is standard with the 6.0. I don't remember if the 5.3 has AWD or 4WD. The AWD in my truck works well. All transfer case and axle fluids looked fine when I changed them. Fuel mileage sucks. Mine is stock except for a K&N FIPK. A couple weeks ago we had a ~300 mile trip at 75mph cruise-control and it got 15.5mpg. Sorry this is scattered, I'm in the middle of a project and just throwing random thoughts out. Also, mine had 20" rimzzz stock (there was an end-of-run special with 20" chrome wheels, Platinum Chrome Grill/Steering Wheel/Dashboard that mine has). I switched to a set of 18" factory rims with some aggressive tires and that made the ride MUCH less harsh. I don't have any lights on the dash, so I assume all the electronic suspension stuff is working, but it is unmistakably a truck ride. I'd suggest smaller diameter wheels to give a bit more forgiving ride. I'll add more later, if you have specific questions, fire away.
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Feb 10, 2017 16:54
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Seminal Flu actually does a thing? Amazing. Must be a sign of impending Spring. Factory fog lights on these Escalades are pure poo poo. Even with reasonable bulbs, the pattern and output sucks balls. I was cleaning out my electronics closet this week and found a brand new set of PIAA 3000s that I forgot I had. These are marker/fog/spot light combos, and they fit right in where the factory fogs went. I was even able to use the factory brackets to mount the PIAAs to. Looks good, only have the fogs wired right now, I'll do the rest later. At least I did a thing. Edit: Holy poo poo, I forgot how much of a difference good lighting makes. I used to be a total light whore, but I don't drive a lot at night anymore... meatpimp fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Feb 12, 2017 |
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Feb 11, 2017 18:48
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I am old and don't like driving at night anymore but I got my wife a new baby Prius and it has the all LED lights and HOLY poo poo turn it to the running lights first time wow this is amazing oh wait this isn't even the main headlights? It truly is amazing the amount of light these give off.
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Feb 12, 2017 06:03
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Hughmoris posted:Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered the Yukon but I'll give them a look. I realize this is a vague question but should I be scared off by high-mileages on these vehicles? Are the 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L pretty solid engines? You realize chebbies will run poorly longer than most vehicles will run at all, right? My late FIL had a 99 tahoe that sat for like 7 months and started right up when we went to sell it.
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Feb 12, 2017 11:44
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Seminal Flu posted:Good information... Thanks for this. I'm relatively new to living in a snowy state but I know corrosion is always a concern up here. I might start scouting out vehicles in Florida and since I have family down there, do a fly-n-drive. Thanks again!
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Feb 12, 2017 22:24
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