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I'm north of Sarasota across the Skyway in St.Pete. Back when I bought our second Crown Vic it had a Cobra exhaust system on it but I didn't like the way it exited out the back, so I got new nicer tips and had the local muffler shop put them in at a downward angle just the way I wanted. The guy held the tips up to the car and put them at different positions/angles until I gave the ok and he welded them right up, cost me maybe 50 bucks. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 02:09
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Spotted a 12 year old Solara lifted as high as the Trail Rated™ 4x4 off-road parking lot exploration vehicle behind it. After reading this thread, I understand why. 
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Apr 12, 2017 15:47
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The stock exhaust on my 6.2 Escalade is perfect. It's surprisingly deep and beefy and doesn't drone, even while pulling a 29-foot camper trailer at 2000-3000 rpm. It's a 3.5" system with a single exit and I'm not sure how well it would fit on a pre-2007 but I would choose it over anything I've heard so far. Maybe I'm getting old.
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Apr 13, 2017 06:34
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Update: Avalon -- Detroit Axle is taking the rears back. I ordered two KYB rear struts from Amazon, one new, one from their Warehouse. The Warehouse one showed up as a front.  So, another one is ordered. The one that showed up correctly has had the existing spring, mount, and bumper switched and it's ready to put in. The other side has had the strut fully disassembled and ready to assemble/install as soon as I get the right part.Escalade -- Exhaust showed up in a box banged up to gently caress. Hanger brackets sticking out of the box, muffler ends hanging out of the box with one pipe flattened... but other than that, it was fine. I was able to bend the pipe back to round and no problems. It is definitely two side exits. I put it on and it sounds fantastic. Like really, surprisingly good. Very deep and muffled but rumbly and aggressive. No drone at freeway speeds, fitment was... okay. I will probably have two rounds of adjustment before it's perfect. Right now, the entire assembly is shifted to the driver's side. I need to change hangers to fix that. But for right now, it looks like this:
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Apr 15, 2017 21:34
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EVERYWHERE 
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Good poo poo, glad the exhaust worked out!
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Apr 15, 2017 22:40
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Good poo poo, glad the exhaust worked out! For $250, it's a stupid-good deal. Full polished stainless, properly supported, no leaks first time I fired it up. I've paid 4 times as much for an exhaust and had more work involved to make it right.
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Apr 15, 2017 23:39
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That usb going to look fantastic once you get it lined up.
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Apr 17, 2017 03:38
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The Avalon has been returned to its normal cruising altitude. Replacing the crap strut assembly with KYB struts and stock springs/mounts lowered the rear 2 full inches. Looks perfectly normal now. No picture because it's a stupid piece of poo poo Avalon that looks like a normal piece of poo poo Avalon.
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Apr 17, 2017 16:02
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Avalon rides fine now. New struts broke in nicely and not more ride issues. The center resonator developed a nice sized hole, though. I haven't been under it to see, but I'm hoping I can just cut it out and replace it with a blank pipe. Two repairs on the Escalade today. I got to thinking that I never heard the compressor for the rear air ride run. That lead right down the rabbit hole and I've got a new compressor on order. The electrical all checked out, but applying power to the relay directly didn't start the compressor. So, I pulled the compressor assembly and it was more hosed at every step I went into it. It was all dried out, which is strange for Ohio, but makes sense since it was a South Carolina car, but all the gaskets were dry and brittle. I applied power directly to the motor and it didn't do anything but pull a crazy amount of current... the 12 gauge wires I was using immediately started to smoke.  .So, with it obviously fuckored, I took the motor off the compressor and was met with the delightful stank of burning electrical. Everything inside was smoked. One more step -- the compressor itself. I pulled the head off only to find the top landing fully broken in 4 pieces. Yeah, the thing died hard, and has probably been dead for a while. I didn't get any Service Suspension warnings, so whatever the failure was, the truck though it was fine. I've got a new compressor coming on Thursday. Also, while this was going on, started out with having the car on accessory power for 5 minutes and was met with a no-start after that. I had been cursing the 3 year old Interstate battery since I've had the truck, so that was finally it. I got a pro-rated warranty replacement quick and easy from Interstate, so hopefully I'm done with stupid little issues for a while. Edit: Pictures for  documentation...   meatpimp fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jun 1, 2017 |
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May 30, 2017 17:21
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Got the new compressor assembly installed and... nothing. Bypassed the relay and the compressor worked right away (bypassing the relay did nothing on Tuesday). Checked voltage to the #30 terminal on the relay -- none. Looked at the wiring diagram, which told me to check the "Stud1" 40A Maxi Fuse. Checked. Blown. Jumpered the fuse to check and everything worked straight away. I'll get a new fuse tomorrow and hopefully it'll be sorted. After all of that, though, I cycled the compressor to raise the rear a bit... and the leveling system brought it right back down. I think my shocks are probably holding air fine and the level is being maintained, probably why I never got a suspension code on the dash.
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Jun 2, 2017 00:18
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I'm almost positive that there are electronic work arounds to the air ride system on that. If it never really worked you might want to check and see if there is one installed.
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Jun 2, 2017 02:32
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rdb posted:I'm almost positive that there are electronic work arounds to the air ride system on that. If it never really worked you might want to check and see if there is one installed. That what I was starting to think before I found d the big fuse blown. That maybe someone saw a big bill and decided to bypass / eliminate instead of fixing. With as bad as the old compressor was broked, though... I can see how the fuse blew... That motor smelled so badly burned that it makes sense. Won't know for sure until the fuse is replaced and I see if that one blows again or not. Edit: New 40 amp maxi fuse and all is well. It cycles normally and both raises and lowers the rear properly. Crazy how an entire subsystem was fully inoperable and broken without throwing any codes. I'm glad to have that sorted. I knew there probably was a problem, but just never looked into it. That motor blowing and compressor breaking must have made some noise as it was blowing the 40 amp fuse! meatpimp fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Jun 2, 2017 |
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Jun 2, 2017 10:46
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I just got a notice from my cloud sharing about "This day in 2007." I think this was my peak AI. In the garage was a manual Volvo C70 with full IPD engine tuning and suspension, the black turbo Miata that I built up from stock, the black Jetta 1.8T with APR turbo-back and tune and stuff, and finally the red turbo Miata that I bought off an AI-er who got the car back as a theft recovery. For those that don't remember or weren't around, the car was returned to him with no wheels, steering wheel, sound system torn out, some wiring torn out, and hotwired. I sent wheels and a steering wheel from Ohio to Florida and shipped it to myself in Ohio. Turns out the car had a fully built bottom end, big turbo, all kinds of stuff. The thieves left it in a gravel lot, and in the process crushed the downpipe as the exhaust was compressed, but once I got everything sorted, the car was an absolute loving beast. 
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Jun 12, 2017 15:55
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Largely an archive bump. The Dorman compressor I got every once in a while makes a grind/scraping noise of the piston either vibrating or dragging against the cylinder wall. I got a replacement from Amazon, but never got around to sending either one back, so I've got the one in the truck now, and a spare, so whatever. Avalon is plugging right along. I over filled the AC a bit, but once I got that sorted, every single thing on the car works like it should... but I found out about 2008-2009 Buick Lacrosse Supers and I may be looking at replacing it. 
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Aug 24, 2017 16:38
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Seminal Flu posted:Avalon is plugging right along. I over filled the AC a bit, but once I got that sorted, every single thing on the car works like it should... but I found out about 2008-2009 Buick Lacrosse Supers and I may be looking at replacing it. The LS4 is awesome. The 4T65E-HD its attached to is not. That transmission had trouble with the supercharged 3800 let alone a 323 ft lb V8. I drove a GP GXP and that was a sweet car. Torque steered like a mofo but man it was fun. If you do get one look into Triple Edge Performance to do a rebuild on the internals that will hold up better then a stock 4T65E-HD. My N* with the 4T80E never skipped a beat, to bad that it is so big and wouldn't fit in a W-Body.
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Aug 25, 2017 03:09
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Or, you know, swap a manual in.  Somehow the Getrag F23 not only bolts right up to the LS4, but also handles the power so long as you avoid wheel hop (it's rated for ~150 hp/150 ft lbs). And if ti does blow up.. go pillage another F23 from a Cavalier, Grand Am, Cobalt, Ion, G5, HHR, Vue, etc etc etc, basically any NA FWD GM 4 cylinder from the past 20+ years. (I didn't know they put the LS4 in a Lacross, though...) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 06:15
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KennyLoggins posted:The LS4 is awesome. The 4T65E-HD its attached to is not. That transmission had trouble with the supercharged 3800 let alone a 323 ft lb V8. I drove a GP GXP and that was a sweet car. Torque steered like a mofo but man it was fun. Funny you should say that. There is one (and only one) for sale in this area and it happens to be near me... 100k miles and just had the transmission replaced. It's also running a tune, idk how much of a difference that makes. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:(I didn't know they put the LS4 in a Lacross, though...) Neither did I... and I've always loved sleepers.
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Aug 25, 2017 11:15
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