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I'd almost consider using some vinyl to reshape how the windows look from the outside so they flow together properly. This may or may not be the automotive detailing sperg version of putting a cross upside down in a jar of piss, I don't know.
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May 31, 2016 16:48
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 01:49 |
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That brings up another thing... fluidfilm this boat before it rots to hell and back. Make sure to get the brake lines and all other known problem areas.
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Jun 1, 2016 12:41
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I think my favorite is how Subaru puts plastic armor over them to prevent rust, but has to remove it at the ends so the flare nuts will fit right, and therefore water wicks under the plastic and eats the exposed ends right by the flare nuts anyways. And how Chrysler puts steel wire coiled around the lines to protect them from gravel, but all it really does is act as a very effective saltwater trap that again rots the steel pipe. Stainless is kinda expensive and annoying to work with, but they could just use cunifer like Volvo has since the 70s (and I use for all my line replacements now) and never have a brake line rot again. Copper and nickel are expensive though so  no chance of that!
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Jun 1, 2016 17:38
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meatpimp posted:Holy poo poo, zerk fittings. Pump until a quarter pump before it comes out.
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Jun 6, 2016 17:16
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Hansolio posted:During the rebuild process the wrong head gasket was put on for that bank of cylinders causing oil starvation and seizing the cam to the head. Many people will tell you that it's impossible to weld steel to aluminum, but anyone who's run an OHC alloy engine out of oil knows that's bullshit and it just takes determination.
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Oct 18, 2016 21:10
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That won't last. Plan on replacing those joints, at least on Subarus and Jeeps, by the time they get sticky and are seizing up like that, all the needle bearings inside have turned to a congealed mass of rust, and between 5 and 1000 days later, it magically uncongeals and falls out, resulting in an incredible amount of play in the wheel and even occasional seizure when the shaft happens to flop around and get stuck in a funny way as it turns. I've driven dodgy vehicles, but I actually stopped driving my comanche when that happened to it and bought a replacement shaft with good joints.
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Oct 25, 2016 15:28
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I never said buy new, hell with that. Go to the junkyard and pillage an almost new one from a car that someone just had it replaced on - costs $20 whether it's new or just about to fail. 
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Oct 25, 2016 16:37
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Remember that the subaru ones only have a master spline/slot on one end (I think it's the end toward the rack, but not sure...) or this wouldn't be a problem. Just make sure the wheels are centered, only remove the bolt for the end that's got a master spline/slot, make sure the key is out and the steering lock is engaged, unbolt the whole column and drop it, slide it out of the car, scribe a mark on the shaft where the slot in the ragjoint collar lines up, then line the new one up with that and put it back together. It was easy when I did it on my forester.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:49
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 01:49 |
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Well now you know why it is covered in dents and scratches, at least.
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Oct 31, 2016 01:09
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